Twisted Hobbys TH 44 EPP FPV ProXy User guide

PROXY

A CODY WOJCIK & CHRIS JEWETT DESIGN

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SAFETY NOTES

m

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IMPORTANT: PRIOR TO ANY ASSEMBLY

Please Note: after removing kit from shipping box, lay each piece flat on a
hard surface, this will allow the airframe to straighten out if lightly bent
from shipping. Do not worry since EPP is very pliable and can be bent back

if out of shape.

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TWISTED HOBBYS

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Thank you for your purchasing a Twisted Hobbys‘ model. Please read through the entire manu al before beginni ng to

build this model. If you have any questions please contact us at the above indicated email address.

WARNING INFORMATION

This R/C Aircraft is not a toy! Read and understand the entire manual before assembly. If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and
property damage. Fly only in open areas, and AMA (Academy of Model Aeron autics) approved flying sites. Do not over look the warnings

and instructions enclos ed or those provided by other manufactures’ products. If you are not an experienced pilot and airplane mode ler you
must use the help of an experienced pilot or an authorized flig ht instructor for the building and fly ing of this model aircraf t.

These instructions are suggestions only on how to assemble this model. There are other ways and methods to do so. Twisted Hobbys has
no c ontrol over the final assembly, the materials and accessorie s used when assemb ling this ki t, or the manne r in which the assembled
model, installed rad io gear and electronic parts are used and maintained. Thus, no liab ility is assumed or accepted for any damage
resulting from the use of the assembled model aircraft or from this instruction manual including but not limited to direct, indirect,

incidental, special, and consequential damages. By the act of using this user-assembled pr oduct, the user accepts all resulting li ability. In
no event shall Twisted Hobbys’ liability e xceed the original purchase price of the kit.

SHIPPING DAMAGE

Twisted Hobbys checks each plane before shipping to ensure that each kit is in fine condition. We have no bearing on the condition of any
component parts damaged by use, modification, or assembly of the model. Inspect the components of this kit upon receipt. If you find any
parts damaged or missing, contact Twisted Hobbys immediately. We will not accept the return or replacement of parts on which assembly
work has already begun. Twisted Hobbys reserves the right to change this warranty at anytime without notice.

OUR MISSION

To provide the best products and service to our customers at the lowest prices possible. We take great pride in

our company, our commitment to customer service and in the products we sell. Our online store is designed

to provide you with a safe and secure environment to browse our produ ct catalog.

Thank you for shopping with Twisted Hobbys!

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kit contents

Wing Parts

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Fuselage Parts

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kit contents

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Carbon BundleHardware and Small Carbon

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TOOL AND ADHESIVES NEEDED

Ÿ Lighter
Ÿ Small Drill Bits
Ÿ Tape Measure and Ruler
Ÿ Black Sewing Thread
Ÿ Welders or Foam Tac Glue
Ÿ Hobby Knife w/new Blade
Ÿ Needle Nose Pliers
Ÿ Wire Cutters
Ÿ Low Temp Hot Glue Gun
Ÿ Course Sand Paper
Ÿ Scissors
Ÿ Small Phillips Screw Driver
Ÿ Thin and Medium CA
Ÿ CA Applicator Tips
Ÿ Activator

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the build

CONSTRUCTION METHODS:

Building surface should be at least 2ft x 4ft and "at. Weights or some small heavy objects will be handy for holding things in place
during the time glue is setting.

Welders or FoamTac glue is used for FOAM TO FOAM joints. Thin and Medium CA can be used on the PLASTIC TO FOAM and
CARBON TO FOAM joints. When using the Welders or FoamTac glue for a butt joint, apply a thin "lm to each surface, allow to
sit brei#y per mfg instructions, then assemble. Note that this method will create a nearly instant bond, so locate carefully when
bringing the two pieces together. If alignment is necessary or a slip joint, do not allow the glue to tack up, simple apply and join
immediately, you will have several minutes to locate the two parts before the glue sets up. In most cases the parts being glued can be
handled with care in 30 minutes, full cure is approx 24 hours.

¨ Locate all the electronics that

will be used on this model

¨ Create a model on your

transmitter

¨ Following your radio mfg.

instructions, bind your radio to
the power combo components

¨ Calibrate the ESC.
¨ Con#rm all components work

properly.

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ GETTING STARTED ------

A Control Rod Ends
B Push Rod Guides
C Landing Gear Components
D Radio and FPV Tray
E Small Parts Organized for Building
F Optional Power Combo
G Basic FPV Components supplied

by Customer

Identify all the components and

pieces shown in the pictures. If there

are any items missing contact Twisted

Hobbys right away. If it looks like

some of the small parts are missing,

double check the hardware bags and

kit box. Note that the items shown in

picture G are customer supplied. FPV

Camera and Receiver with Gyro.

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A B

C

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F G

------ THE WING ------

A Gently bend all the control

surfaces back and let them sit like
this for about an hour

B Locate the two longest and largest

spars,1x5x950mm, and the
smaller one that is .5x3x200mm

C Apply a medium layer of FoamTac

to the mating edges of the wing
halves

D Once the glue is tacked up, bring

the two pieces together making
sure the alignment nubs are
locating everything perfectly

E Start with the .5x3x200mm spar
F Wipe it down with alcohol
G Test #t it into the reward slot on

the bottom side of the wing and
secure with thin CA

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A B

C

D

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F G

------ THE WING (con’t) ------

Wipe down the two main spars with

alcohol before #tting

A Test #t the rear main spar so that

it is "ush with the surface

B Install the rear main spar,

pushing it "ush to the wing
surface for the how length

C Repeat the process with the forward

main spar

D Secure the wing and spars "ush to

the work bench with some weights

E Glue all the three of the spars to

the wing with some thin CA, don't
hit with kick yet

F Let the whole assembly sit for a

couple minutes to all the CA to
soak in, then hit with kicker

G Locate two of the four control

surface horns. All four are the
same, so any two will do

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ THE WING (con’t) ------

FoamTac or CA can be used to attach the
control surface horns

A Test #t the horn in to the provided

slot

B Adjust the length as needed
C Retest the #t
D Make sure the front of the horn is

"ush with the edge of the hinge cut

E Apply some glue to the base of the

control horn

F Install into the slot, again making

sure that the front edge of the
horn is "ush with the hinge cut.

G Repeat for the other side, paying

attention to make sure that the
other horn is installed in the same
location relative to the hinge cut

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------ MAIN FUSELAGE STRUCTURE / Before you Start ------

If you are an experienced builder all the detail may not be necessary, if so skip

ahead a couple pages.

Building the Main Fuselage structure for the proXy will be similar to that of the Crack
Beaver. There are a couple different ways to do this, method and sequence shown here will
ensure that the X cross section of the fuselage will come out nice and square with little
effort. Things that will be critical to the success of this step will be to make sure ahead of
time that all the slits for the spars are deep enough and clear of nubs so that the spars
will lay into the slits nice and "ush.

IMPORTANT PART FOR SUCCESS OF THIS STEP TO TEST FIT ALL THE PARTS

TOGETHER FIRST AND UNDERSTAND THE SEQUENCE OF EVENTS BEFORE

GLUING.

------ THE PROCESS / words ------

Ÿ Start by rounding up the two main fuselage pieces
Ÿ Remove any scrap from the cut out areas
Ÿ Locate the fuselage section that has the LONG slits and SHORT tabs as shown
Ÿ Split the tabs in half at the $V$ marks
Ÿ Locate the landing gear struts. Note that they are keyed unique
Ÿ Test #t that the nubs match up perfectly and that the slits for the spars align
Ÿ Attach the two pieces with FoamTac, using the $tackup$ method
Ÿ Hold a little pressure for a minute or two against the joint while the glue sets up
Ÿ Repeat for the other side
Ÿ Locate the Ele/Rud that is keyed to #t the large one piece fuselage section
Ÿ Glue the two together with the $tackup$ method, make sure the slits align
Ÿ Hold a little pressure for a minute or two against the joint while the glue sets up
Ÿ Take one of the two smaller carbon spars and clean it with alcohol
Ÿ Fit it into the slit of the Ele/Rud piece that was just attached, make sure it is "ush
Ÿ Constrain it "at and then CA in place
Ÿ Take the other smaller spar and the loose piece of the Ele/Rud
Ÿ Clean, test #t, constrain and CA glue the two together
Ÿ Get two of the larger spars and the one piece fuselage side
Ÿ Clean the spars with alcohol and test #t, make sure that the spar is all the way to the top of the slit and "ush
Ÿ Also check that the remaining part of the spars at the end of the strut will be approximately the right length to engage the axle hubs
Ÿ Do not glue the hubs on yet, they will get attached in a later step
Ÿ Constrain, check for "ush and CA
Ÿ Take top half of fuselage and the remaining two larger carbon spars
Ÿ Test #t them into the slits, again make sure that they go all the way to the upper end of the slit
Ÿ Make sure they are "ush, the constrain it all "at and apply CA
Ÿ Test #t the last remaining smaller spar into the slit in the Ele/Rud
Ÿ Constrain, check for "ush and CA

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----- THE PROCESS / words (con’t) -----

The next several steps will all be done WITHOUT GLUE it is for test "tting only and to

understand how the assembly will go together, study the pictures and make sure everything

"ts together nicely

Ÿ Take the top half of the fuselage with the spars sticking out and feed those spar ends thru the cut outs in the fuselage
Ÿ Get it pretty close to the tabs, then focus your attention the the rear Ele/Rud spar and feed it thru its associated hole
Ÿ Fully engage all the tabs and slots
Ÿ Make sure that the bevels on the top of the fuselage are LEVEL, if they are not, you have assembled the pieces incorrectly
Ÿ Grab the lower fuselage half and align the tabs at a slight angle to the slots in the fuselage
Ÿ Engage the tabs into the slots at the same time as guiding the carbon spars into their respective slits
Ÿ Push everything together, making sure that it all #ts nice, "ush and square
Ÿ If any parts are not "ush, fully engaged or not square, make the necessary adjustment to get everything #tting properly

This completes the TEST FIT WITH NO GLUE, keep in mind how it all went together and

disassembly all the pieces

Ÿ Start the reassembly with the main fuselage piece and the top half of the other side of the fuselage
Ÿ Apply FoamTac to the larger piece in all the areas where the two items will contact each other including the tab and slot

areas

Ÿ Keep glue AWAY from the area where the spars cross thru
Ÿ Fit the upper fuselage half and the strut spars thru the holes in the large fuselage piece like was done in the test #t up
Ÿ Make sure all the foam tabs and slots are fulling engaged and that the strut spars and Ele/Rud spar are in their slits and

"ush

Ÿ Make sure the two upper fuselage member are nice and square with each other
Ÿ Apply a little pressure to the assembly for a couple minutes to allow the FoamTac to make a good bond
Ÿ Next the lower fuselage half will be attached, apply FoamTac to all the mating FOAM surfaces
Ÿ DO NOT PUT GLUE THE SPARS AT THIS TIME
Ÿ Move the two pieces into position as was done with the #t up
Ÿ Make sure the foam tabs and slots are fully engaged
Ÿ Double check that the spars are (dry #t) "ush with the surface of their slits
Ÿ Make sure all the fuselage pieces are 90 degrees to each other along the entire length
Ÿ Hold a little pressure on the two pieces for a minute or two so that the FoamTac can make a good bond
Ÿ NOW the spars will be secured with CA to their slits
Ÿ Make sure that all the fuselage components are still square and that the spars are "ush in the slits
Ÿ Apply thin CA to all the spars and hit with kicker

This completes the Main Fuselage Structure

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE ------

Pictures to follow along with for the

previous two pages

A Locate the two fuselage halves

bottom one shown gets split ...

B ... at the center of the tabs
C Split all the way, nose to tail
D Locate the gear struts and notice how

they are keyed to their mate fuselage
piece

E Use the “tack” up method to

attach the gear strut to the
fuselage

F Assemble and hold pressure for a

minute or so

G Repeat for the other side

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Find the rudder piece shown that

is keyed to #t the fuselage on that
side

B Using the “tack” method attache the

two pieces

C Locate the shorter spars from the set

pictured above (.5x3x250mm)

D Wipe it down with alcohol to remove

any mfg residue

E Test Fit and clean up the slot if

needed

F Install / Insert
G Constrain "at and secure the spar

and control surface together with
some thin CA and kicker

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Locate the other short spar, prep it

and ...

B ... test #t it, as was done with the

other one

C Constrain and combined with CA and

kicker

D Locate two of the four longer spars

(.5x3x332mm long)

E Prep them
F Test #t them
G Make sure the go all the way up to

the top of the slot near the wing
saddle part of the fuselage

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Locate the two little white 3D printed

axle hubs

B Compare the slots in the hub to the

exposed spars

C The two should match up pretty

close, if not double check to make
sure the spar is up against the other
end of the slot

D Constrain Flat and secure with thin

CA and kicker

E Grab the remaining two spars

(.5x3x332mm) and the top half of the
other fuselage side

F Test #t them, all the way up to the

wing saddle like was done with the
other side

G Constrain "at and secure with

thin CA and kicker

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Use the “tack” method and attach the

tail piece shown, only apply the glue
on the foam-foam part of the joint

B Hold pressure for a minute or so
C Secure the carbon-foam part of the

joint with thin CA and kicker

D Finished parts

THIS IS WHERE TEST FITTING

STARTS - DO NOT USE GLUE UNTIL

CALLED FOR

E Take the fuselage piece with the spars

sticking ut and thread the ends thru
the other fuselage part

F All the way thru...

G .... and line up the tabs

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Also feed the extended tail spars thru

their respective cut outs

B Fully engage the tail tabs
C Fully engage the forward tabs
D Check that the fuselage saddle area

is approximately level/horizontal

E Flip the fuselage assembly over so

that the extended spars are facing
upward

F Grab the mating lower fuselage

section and start to line up the tabs
into their cutouts and the spars into
their slots

G You will have to #t them up to

each other initially at a little bit of
an angle, once the tabs and spars
are nearly in position, you can
square things up

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Fully seat the spars land gear struts

into their slots, make sure they are
"ush

B Check to make sure the two fuselage

members are square to each other in
and around the landing gear strut
area

C Fully seat the tail spars into their

slots, make sure they are "ush

D Check to make sure the two fuselage

members are square to each other in
and around the tail section

E TEST FIT UP is essentially done, have

a look at the whole thing and make
sure it all looks nice and square

F Take is all apart, remember how it

had all been test #t assembled

TEST FIT IS DONE - TIME FOR GLUE

G Apply glue as shown to all mating

surfaces

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Feed the spars thru the forward

section

B Feed the spars thru the tail section
C Check for squareness and that all the

joints are #rm against each other

D Apply glue to lower fuselage sections
E Keep the two long extended spars free

of glue at this time

F Keep the single extended tail spare

free of glue as well

G Press all the FoamTac joints together

#rmly for a minute or two or until
they hold their own position

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MAIN FUSELAGE (con’t) ------

A Check that the fuselage is square all

along the length nose to...

B ... tail
C From the underside, speci#cally

check that all the spars for the
landing gear struts are "ush

D When satis#ed, secure the one that

have not been glued yet with some
thin CA

E Repeat step C for the area of the tail

section where the spars comes thru

F Repeat step D for the tail
G Do one last double check with your

builder square to make sure
everything is nice and square and set
aside for now to let the glue cure up.

MAIN FUSELAGE STRUCTURE IS NOW

COMPLETE

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ WHEEL / AXLES/ HUBS ------

A Gather up all the round wheel donuts
B Locate the two 3D printed axle hubs,

the socket head cap screws and the
wood hub caps

C Separate the hubs from their wooden

tree

D Take one of the hub caps, one of the

cap screw and a solid wheel piece

E Fit them together, using the cap

screw as a locator to position the hub
cap at the center of the foam wheel
piece. Secure with CA or FoamTac

F Flip the tire piece over...
G ... and repeat for the other side

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ WHEEL / AXLES/ HUBS ------

A Gather up all two of the donuts with

holes in the center as pictured

B Apply some FoamTac to one side
C Join together with the piece that has

the wood hub cap all ready attached
to it, center the hole around the hub
cap. When joining together slightly
twist the two pieces to distribute the
glue

D Repeat for the other wheel
E Once both wheels are built, put them

under some heavy weights, and leave
them there overnight, this will
minimize the edges from curling up

F Locate the 3D printed axle hubs
G ... and test #t them both on to the

exposed ends of the spars as shown,
the spars may need to be shortened
slightly for a nice "ush #t

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ WHEEL / AXLES/ HUBS ------

A For best strength and longevity, use

FoamTac for attaching the axle hubs

B Put some glue in the grooves
C Coat the spars
D Join the two pieces as shown and

add a #let of glue all around the base
of where the two pieces meet. Make
sure the spars are "ush and that the
axle hub is #rm against the bottom
edge of the landing gear strut

E Repeat for the other side. Let this

assembly dry at least overnight before
attempting to attach the wheels

F Insert a cap screw thru the wheel and

thread into the axle hub. Note that it
may be a little tight, so work the
screw in gently by going in and out a
little at a time.

G ... and repeat for the other side

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A

C

------ TRUSSING ------

A Gather up two of the four long skinny

round carbon rods (1x500mm) and
the two thicker ones from the
hardware kit that are approx.

1.2x184mm long

B

B Cut one of the 500mm long pieces

into one each of: 121/105/98/88 mm
long pieces

C Locate the slit cuts in the fuselage

pieces that are angled to accept the
ends of the rods just cut, #ll each of
the slots on one side with FoamTac

D

E

D Install the trussing as show, starting

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with the longest (thick one) that goes
from the wing saddle down to the
fuselage, from there they zig-zag
towards the rear of the fuselage in
decreasing size.

E Make sure the fuselage is true, and

repeat the process for the other side

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------ TAIL PUSH RODS AND SERVOS / Before you Start ------

If you are an experienced builder all the detail may not be necessary, if so skip ahead a couple pages.

Following is the process for the installation of the equipment tray, the dry #tting (no glue) of the servos, and the
building (and installation) of the tail control rods. Read ahead a couple steps along the way if the assembly
process is not clear on the current step.

CAUTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN BUILDING THE CONTROL RODS.

IT IS CRITICAL

FOR THESE STEPS THAT THE SERVOS AND CONTROL SURFACES BE CENTERED. IF YOU DO NOT

HAVE THINGS CENTERED YOUR CONTROL RODS WILL END UP THE WRONG LENGTH!

------ THE PROCESS / words ------

Ÿ Start by locating the three wood cross braces, the equipment tray and your four servos

Ÿ Separate the wood pieces from each other
Ÿ Test #t them into the slots of the equipment tray
Ÿ Wiggle the three wood cross braces into their respective holes in the fuselage
Ÿ Fit the equipment tray onto the cross braces
Ÿ Use thin CA to attach the wood pieces in the tab areas
Ÿ Underneath on the foam side the tabs should be "ush adjust if needed then CA
Ÿ Push the four servos into their cut out, pay attention the the orientation. Horns for the ailerons will face outward, and horns for the tail will face inward
Ÿ Do not glue the servos yet, but situate them so that the ailerons servos are "ush with the inner fuselage wall and the tails servos should be "ush with

the external fuselage wall

Ÿ Locate the two remaining control surface horns and test #t them into their pre-cut slots
Ÿ The fore/aft location should be such that the hole in the horn is directly above the hinge line.
Ÿ The slot in the foam should already be cut to locate this as needed, but it does not hurt to double check
Ÿ Once happy with the #t remove the horns, put some FoamTac in the slot, some FoamTac on the tab of the horn and install
Ÿ Repeat this for the other side
Ÿ Locate all the control rod guides and cut them free from each other
Ÿ Install them into their tiny holes on the $top-inside$ of the fuselage, DO NOT GLUE THEM YET
Ÿ Locate two clevis and two ball link sets of hardware, and the two remaining long thin rods
Ÿ The clevis end will install on the control surface side of the push rod, and the ball link end will attach to the servo horn
Ÿ Locate the two tiny white spacers and #nger install them into the back of one of the ball link ends
Ÿ Once you have it started by hand, hold the ball link with some small pliers and gently tap the white spacer in a little further
Ÿ When completely seated there should be just a little white of the spacer showing
Ÿ Test #t one end of the push rod into the center of the white spacer that was just installed. You may need to dress up the end of the carbon rod a little so

that it #ts cleanly into the center of the spacer

Ÿ Once happy with the #t, use some thin CA to secure the pieces together
Ÿ Repeat for the other control rod
Ÿ Next from the nose of the aircraft, thread the control rod thru the push rod guides such that when completely threaded thru, the ball link should be near

the area of the servo control horn

Ÿ The ball link will attach to the BOTTOM of the servo horn. You will need to manipulate the servo out of it's pocket a little to be able to reach the tiny

screw that threads into the base of the ball part of the link. Use a little bit of thread locker on the screw to keep it from backing out

Ÿ Repeat this process with the other control rod and servo
Ÿ Locate two of the clevis links and two of the small threaded rod ends
Ÿ Thread the clevis on the threaded rod end for approx half of the available threaded length. Do this for both pieces.

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------ COMPLETING THE PUSH ROD LENGTHS AND ENDS ------

MAKE SURE THAT WHEN CALLED FOR THAT THE

SERVOS ARE ELECTRONICALLY CENTERED AND

THE CONTROL SURFACES ARE “LOCKED” IN

THEIR NEUTRAL POSITIONS

------ THE PROCESS / words (con’t) ------

Ÿ

Center the servos

Ÿ Constrain the control surfaces to neutral
Ÿ Attach a clevis to one of the control surface horns, make sure the little brass pin gets snapped in all the

way. It may be necessary to clean the hole out in the control surface horn if the brass pin does not pass
thru. If it does need to be enlarged, the tip of a hobby knife or 1mm drill (.039in) can be used, just be
careful to not make the hole oversize, this will cause slop in the linkage

Ÿ Align the raw push rod end and the brass part of the clevis assembly, you should notice that there is

some extra length on the rod. Double check that everything is still centered and neutral

Ÿ Cut the control rod with a small pair of snips right at the place were the threads start (see photo)
Ÿ Dress up the end of the rod to make it nice and smooth, remove the constraints from the control surface,

"ex the control surface so that you can install the end of the rod into the open end of threaded brass
piece.

Ÿ Return the control surface to neutral by pushing/pulling the control rod a little in or out to get the

control surface to neutral. Make sure the servo is still centered as well

Ÿ Once you like the location, secure with thin CA. For added security you and also make small crimp in the

#tting to $squeeze$ in onto the rod, just do this carefully so that the rod is not completely crushed inside
the #tting

Ÿ Repeat the process for the other control rod
Ÿ Eyeball down the length of the control rod to align all the push rod guides. They should also be installed

all the way in until they bottom out on the little "anged area. Once you are happy with their positions
and alignment, secure them to the fuselage by applying a drop of CA at the base where it pokes into the
foam. Be careful here to not let any CA get into the area where the rods are sliding thru the guides

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ RADIO BAY ------

** NOTE **
THE FOLLOW SEVERAL PAGES ARE
THE PICTURES AND DESCRIPTIONS

THAT GO WITH ALL THE VERBIAGE

FROM THE PREVIOUS TWO PAGES

A Gather up the wood pieces shown

and servos that will be used

B Start by sanding the cross members

smooth

C Test #t the tray and cross members

together, do not glue at this time.

D Insert the front cross member into

the forward most pair of slots

E Angle it into the holes on both sides

of the fuselage

F Tabs should be "ush with the far side

of the fuselage, do not glue at this
time

G Repeat for the remaining two cross

members

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A B

C

D

------ RADIO BAY (con’t) ------

A Fit the main tray piece to the cross

members, make sure all the tabs are
fully engaged

B Secure the main tray and cross

members together with a drop of thin
CA in the tabbed areas

C Secure the tray to the fuselage with

thin CA where the tabs stick thru the
foam. NOTE - you can leave these
tabs “unglued” if you want a
“removable” radio tray. It #ts tight
enough into the fuselage that glue is
not necessary.

D Install the four servos as shown.

Aileron servos near the wing saddle
will be "ush to the INSIDE, and their
arms will face outward. Tail servos
down in the “V” will be "ush to the
OUTSIDE and their arms are facing
inward. DO NOT GLUE THE SERVOS
IN AT THIS TIME.

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A B

------ TAIL HORNS ------

A Locate the remaining two control

horns. Note - All four control horns
are exactly the same, so it does not
matter which ones you use.

B Test #t them into the slots as shown,

making sure that the hole in the horn
is directly over the hinge line at the
neutral position

C When you are happy with the #t,

remove the horn and apply some glue
to both sides of the tab

D Re-Install into the slot, making sure

that the hole in the horn is still
positioned correctly in relation to the
hinge line as mentioned in the
previous step. Repeat for the other
tail control surface.

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D

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A B

C

D

------ PUSH ROD GUIDES ------

A Locate the tree of push rod guides
B Break them all apart. Note - they are

all the same length and size.

C Stick one each into the pre-cut holes

along the length of the fuselage boom.
Note that they will be located on the
TOP - INSIDE of the fuselage boom

D All guides installed. NO GLUE AT

THIS TIME

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ TAIL CONTROL RODS ------

PART I

A Gather up two clevises, two ball links,

two small brass pins, two of the
smaller threaded brass rod ends, two
tiny screws for the ball links and two
small white spacer tubes as all shown
in the picture

B Locate the two remaining .5x500mm

rods

C Note that this build will use the clevis

links on the control surface side of

the control rod, and....

D .... the ball link end will be used on

the servo side of the control rod

E Grab two ball links and the white

spacers

F Start the spacer into the end of the

ball link

G Hold the assembly gently with a pair

of needle nose or small pliers. Ball
link pliers are shown, if you have a

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ TAIL CONTROL RODS ------

PART I (con’t)

A Gently tap the spacer into the open

end of the Ball Link

B Note that there will be approx 1.5mm

of exposed length of the white spacer
as shown

C Test #t the control rod into the

spacer, dress up the end a little if
needed so that the rod will slide into
the spacer

D Slide it all the way in...
E ... and secure with some thin CA
F Let the CA sit for a minute then hit

with kicker

G Repeat for the other control rod

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ TAIL CONTROL RODS ------

PART I (con’t)

A As mentioned earlier, the ball link

end will attach to the servo arm

B Feed the free end of the control rod

thru the guides starting with the ones
closest to the servos

C Slide the rod all the way thru all the

guides

D The ball link should line up pretty

straight with the UNDER side of the
servo control horn

E Manipulate the servo so that you can

attach the ball link to the horn with
it’s mating tiny screw. Use a dab of
thread locker

F Put the servo back into it’s slot with

the body of the servo being "ush with
the OUTSIDE fuselage surface

G Repeat for the other control rod

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ TAIL CONTROL RODS ------

PART II

A Grab the small thread brass #tting

and the clevis as shown

B Thread the brass part in approx as

far as shown. This will give you a
little adjustment in both directions if
needed in the future

C Repeat for the other clevis
D ELECTRONICALLY CENTER THE

TWO TAIL SERVOS

E LOCK THE CONTROL SURFACES IN

THEIR NEUTRAL POSITION

F Grab one of the clevis assemblies just

made...

G ... and attach it to the control surface

horn with one of the little brass pins.
The hole in the horn may need to be
cleaned out a little. Make sure the
brass pin fully engages the clevis,
and snaps into it’s fully seated
position

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ TAIL CONTROL RODS ------

PART II (con’t)

A With the servo and control surface

both in centered/neutral positions,
there should be a little extra control
rod length.

B You will want to shorten the control

rod to a position that is just shy of
where the threaded part starts

C Clip to length with a pair of cutter

and dress up the end where it got
crushed from the cutters

D De"ect the control surface away from

it’s neutral position so that the end of
the rod can be slid into the brass
#tting

E Retrun the control surface to neutral,

if needed shorten up the rod a little
more

F With everything neutral, CA together
G Repeat for the other side

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A

C

B

------ TAIL ROD GUIDES ------

A Eyeball down the length of the fuselage to make sure that

all the rod guides are straight and true and that all the
guides themselves are fully seated to their full depth.

B CA the bases of the guides to the surrounding foam, but

careful to avoid getting CA anywhere near the rod where it
feeds thru the rod guide

C If you have a servo tester you can double check the

centering and that there is no binding. If not this can be
done when a receiver is installed

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ ATTACHING WING ------

A Attaching the wing is next, read thru the

steps on this and the next page to fully
understand the process before putting
glue to foam

B There are reference marks (cuts) near the

leading edge directly parallel with the
inboard end of the ailerons reliefs

C These two marks will be used as guides

when lining up the saddle area of the
fuselage with the wing

D Lay the wing on your work bench,

bottom side facing UP and test #t the
fuselage

E The wing should be all the way forward

until it is against the notch in the
fuselage saddle...

F ... and the front outside edge of the

saddle will line up with the reference
mark at the rear part of the saddle will
match up exactly to the aileron relief cut

G When you are happy with how everything

is lining up with the edges and reference
mark, apply a nice bead of FoamTac to
the saddle areas

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ ATTACHING WING ------

(con’t)

A Wet glue method will be used to allow

for minor adjustments as needed

B Flip the fuselage over and line it up

with the forward notch and reference
marks as when test #t

C Long push pins can be used to hold

the two pieces in their exact position

D Make sure the edges line up perfectly
E Put some weights on the wings to

keep everything nice and "at

F Brace up the tail as shown to keep

the boom parallel

G Take some measurements from each

wing tip to a common point on the
tail to check for squareness of the
wing to the fuselage. Anything less
then 3/16” is #ne.

LET THIS DRY OVERNIGHT BEFORE

HANDLING AGAIN

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A B

D

E

C

------ AILERON CONTROL RODS ------

A Gather up the two 1.8x65mm rods

from the hardware packet along with
two larger brass ends two ball link
with screws and two clevises with
pins

B Detail view of the items need for this

step

F G

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C The clevis end and brass part will be

the two screwed together

D Thread the brass part in approx as

far as shown

E Repeat for the other clevis, then set

these two aside for now

F Grab one of the ball links and test #t

it onto one end of the rod. Note that
you may have to dress up the end of
the rod a little for a nice smooth #t

G Once happy with the #t, slide the rod

all the way in and secure with thin
CA, make sure to keep glue out of the
area around the ball pivot

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A

C

B

------ AILERON CONTROL RODS (con’t) ------

A Attach the ball link end to the aileron control horn, use a

little thread locker on the screw. Make sure the aileron is in
it’s neutral position and that the servo is electronically
center. Attach the clevis and pin to the outer most hole of
the servo control arm. Next trim the rod approx where
shown with the red dashed line

B Dress up the end of the rod as needed after cutting so that

it will slide into the brass #tting. Double check that both
the aileron and servo are centered and secure the rod and
brass #tting together with some thin CA. Be careful that
glue does not run into any unwanted areas

C Repeat for the other side

Note - In this build the ball link was put on the control

surface side. It could be the other way around, but with it

on the control surface side it will work a little smoother

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ MOTOR MOUNT ------

A Gather up the pieces shown
B Apply some FoamTac to the all white

underside piece...

C ... and position as shown into it’s

respective slots

D Apply some FoamTac to the upper

color printed part...

E ... and position as shown into it’s

respective slots on the top side of the
wing

F Apply some FoamTac to one side of

the motor mount...

G ... and position as shown

Let these parts completely dry

before attaching the motor

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ WINGLETS ------

A Gather up the two winglet pieces
B Apply some FoamTac into the two

BEVELED cut areas

C Position the winglet as shown up

against a vertical surface and secure
so that the glue can dry and hold the
winglet in this position

D Repeat for the other winglet
E Let the glue completely dry before

handling. They should hold their
shape very nicely

F Test #t on to the end of the wing, you

may need to clean out the slots in the
winglet where they are puckered a
little from being bent up at 45 degrees

G Once you are happy with the #t,

secure to the end of the wing with
some FoamTac and use some push
pins to hold in place until dry. Repeat
for the other side

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A B

NOSE

CENTER OF GRAVITY

A Start by locating the Center of Gravity

------ ELECTRONICS -----­MOTOR

point for this airframe. Doing this
right now will help you in determining
where and how to locate all of the
onboard electronics

TAIL

C D

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B Gather up the motor and mounting

hardware

C Attach the X mount to the back side

of the motor. Use thread locker

D If you are using the Twisted Hobbys’

motor and universal X mount, you
will attach the mount with two
screws to the holes that match up to
the motor

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A B

C

D

------ ELECTRONICS (con’t) -----­MOTOR

A The motor will mount to the wood

#rewall as shown, with the motor
wires pointing down, either to the left
or right side

B If you are using the Twisted Hobbys’

motor, enlarge the holes in the wood
mount with a 1/16” diameter drill,
this will keep the wood from splitting.
If you are using another motor and
mounting hardware, you may or may
not need to size the holes.

C Attach the motor
D Connect the ESC to the motor wires,

it does not matter right now how the
wires are connected, but you may
need to switch two of them around if
the motor spins in the wrong
direction once all the electronics are
installed

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A B

C

D

E

F G

------ ELECTRONICS -----­RX & FPV

There are many, many different options

available for setting this airframe up with

receivers, #ight controllers, FPV cameras

and HD recording potential. What is shown

here is just one possible solution. This

gear is simple and easy to setup and will

have you #ying FPV without a bunch of

programing or wiring.

A Admiral RX with Stability and Twisted

Hobbys’ Spotter CAM/VTX

B Spotter CAM/VTX will use a

dedicated battery for cleanest signal

C Spotter Mounted in the nose
D Admiral RX mounting position
E Flight Pack Battery position
F Tuck the wires away for clean setup
G Ready to go... !

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Find yourself a park that is out of the way and full of spaced out trees or other obstacles, strap on the goggles and go..!!

This completes the build, it’s design and construction should give you many

hours of #ying enjoyment. This airplane will serve you well, whether you are

new to FPV #ying or are a seasoned veteran.

Please visit www.TwistedHobbys.com for other accessories and aircraft.

There are several online resources and forums for this model as well. It is

suggested that you visit the RC Groups Thread for this model for additional

information, it is a great resource for questions and insight to this aircraft.

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center of gravity and control throws

NOSE

CENTER OF GRAVITY

TAIL

C.G. - 2.375” from LE of wing

Locate all the electronics to achieve indicated

CG point. Use Velcro for initial "ights for

battery mounting and experiment with it’s

position until you have determined the best

spot for your "ying style.

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pre-flight & testing

Pre ght!Checks Pre ght!Checks

Storage

Be safe and enjoy, thank you again for purchasing a Twisted Hobbys’ Product!

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TIPS AND TRICKS

A good building surface is —drop ceiling“ panel from a local hardware store on a nice flat board

Use parchment paper between the areas being glued and your wo rk surface

Heavy flat o bjects (like books, batteries, etc.) could be used t o hold everything flat

When resetting your radio, start with all the ATV‘s or throw volumes at 100%.

Make sure you have set the direction of the servos correctly before attempting to trim for zero position.

If possible t ry the servo horns in different locatio ns to determine which position will require the least amount of
sub trim.

Installing the servo horns in their fi nal location and attaching quick links to the servos may make servo
installation much easier later.

On the Orange Rx, the negative pin is the one closest to the flat side of the circuit board.

Keep a good suppl y of sharp knife blades handy when building a foamie airplane.

Use low temp hot glue for gluing electronics, this will allow for easy removal later if necessary. The lo w temp hot
glue can be “released” by paint ing” the glue bead wit h an alcohol soaked cotton swab a couple times.

A business card with the corners clipped off can be used as a small square.

Allowing the Welders glue to set for five minutes before assembly will shorten th e tack up time, just be sure if
do ing it this way that you get the parts into position quickly, as the glue will start to bond o n contact . Any join ts

that you feel are going to require adjustment, it is best to assembly the pieces while the glue is wet. The Green
(high tack) masking tape works the best when used to clamp things toget her on an EPP foam airplane.

When gluing the rudder to the fuselage, stick pins could be used to ho ld in position if wanting to handle the
airframe before it is completely dry

A rotary tool with a cutting wheel could be used to produce grooves in fiber glass parts instead of coarse sand
paper. Use a hatch pattern. This creates more bonding area for the glue.

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notes and s/u Sheet

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