Twisted Hobbys Puddle Star User Manual

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 1

USA Distributor

Twisted Hobbys

www.twistedhobbys.com

MOTOR: 2x 19-26g/1450-1750 Outrunner
ESC: 2x 10-12 amp
SERVOS: 4x 5-7g
PROP: 2x 7x3.5dd or 7x6sf
BATTERY: 3s / 650-850mAh

RADIO: min. 4 channel
WINGSPAN: 39”
LENGTH: 39”
AUW: 390 to 420 grams

PPUUD

D

D

DLLEE

SSTTAAR

R

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 2

SAFETY NOTES

 Before assembling and flying this model, read carefully any instructions and warnings of other

manufacturers for all the products you installed or used on your model, especially radio
equipment and power source.

 Check thoroughly before every flight that the airplanes’ components are in good shape and

functioning properly. If you find a fault do not fly the model until you have corrected the
problem.

 Radio interference caused by unknown sources can occur at any time without notice. In such a

case, your model will be uncontrollable and completely unpredictable. Make sure to perform a
range check before every flight. If you detect a control problem or interference during a flight,
immediately land the model to prevent a potential accident.

 Youngsters should only be allowed to assemble and fly these models under the instruction and

supervision of an experienced adult.

 Do not operate this model in a confined area.

 Do not stand in line with, or in front of a spinning propeller and never touch it with any object.

IMPORTANT: PRIOR TO ANY ASSEMBLY

Please Note: after removing kit from shipping box, lay each piece flat on a
hard surface, this will allow the airframe to straighten out if lightly bent
from shipping. Do not worry since EPP is very pliable and can be bent back
if out of shape.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 3

TWISTED HOBBYS

Website: www.twistedhobbys.com – email: [e-mail]

Thank you for your purchasing a Twisted Hobbys‘ model. Please read through the entire manual before beginning to

build this model. If you have any questions please contact us at the above indicated email address.

WARNING INFORMATION

This R/C Aircraft is not a toy! Read and understand the entire manual before assembly. If misused, it c an cause serious bodily harm and
property damage. Fly only in open areas, and AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approve d flying sites. Do not over look the warnings
and instructions enclosed or those provided by other manufactures’ products. If you are not an experienced pilot and airplane modeler you
must use the help of an experienced pilot or an authorized flight instructor for the building and flying of this model aircraft.

These instructions are suggestions only on how to assemble this model. There are other ways and methods to d o so. Twisted Hobbys has
no c ontrol over the final assembly, the materials and accessories used when assembling this kit, or the m anner in which the assembled
model, installed radio gear and electronic p arts are used and maintained. Thus, no liability is assumed or accepted for any d amage
resulting from the use of th e assemb led model aircraft or from this instruction manual including but not limited to direct, indirect,
incidental, special, and consequential damages. By the act of using this user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. In
no event shall Twisted Hobbys’ liability exceed the original purchase price of the kit.

SHIPPING DAMAGE

Twisted Hobbys checks each plane before shipping to ensure that each kit is in fine condition. We have no bearing on the condition of any
component parts damaged by use, modification, or assembly of the mod el. Inspect the components of this kit upon receipt. If you find any
parts damaged or missing, contact Twis ted Hobbys immediately. We will not accept the return or replacement of parts on which assembly
work has already begun. Twis ted Hobbys reserves the right to change this warranty at anytime without notice.

OUR MISSION

To provide the best products and service to our customers at the lowest prices pos sible. We take great pride in

our company, our commitment to customer service and in the products we sell. Our online store is designed

to provide you with a safe and secure environment to browse our product catalog.

Thank you for shopping with Twisted Hobbys!

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

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kit contents

Fuselage Parts

Double check that you have all the

above pictured items. Note - Some

kits might have slight deviations from

the above pictured items.

Wings, SFG’s and Tail Surfaces

Double check that you have all the

above pictured items. Note - Some

kits might have slight deviations from

the above pictured items.

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kit contents (cont.)

Hardware Kit Detail

Double check that you have all the

above pictured items. Note - Some

kits might have slight deviations from

the above pictured items.

Plywood and Hardware Kits

Double check that you have all the

above pictured items. The Hardware

kit items are detailed to the right.
Note - Some kits might have slight
deviations from the above pictured

items.

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TOOL AND ADHESIVES NEEDED

Tools shown and listed are suggestions only.

Depending on your building technique you may not

need everything indicated – and/or – you may find that

other tools available to yourself may be of benefit to

your Build.

It is also recommended that you have a flat building

surface, one that will accept stick pins and push pins.

An Acrostic Ceiling panel from your local hardware
store fits this bill nicely, and will lay flat on your work
table. Over size / long push pins are available at your

local craft store. These two items are by no means

required, but will aid in the building process, and can

be used for future projects

 Lighter
 Small Drill Bits
 Tape Measure and Ruler
 Black Sewing Thread
 Welders Glue
 Hobby Knife w/new Blade
 Needle Nose Pliers
 Wire Cutters
 Low Temp Hot Glue Gun
 Course Sand Paper
 Scissors
 Small Phillips Screw Driver
 Thin and Medium CA
 CA Applicator Tips
 Activator

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the build

CONSTRUCTION METHODS:

Building surface should be at least 2ft x 4ft and at. Weights or some small heavy objects will be handy for holding things in place
during the time glue is setting.

Welders glue is used for FOAM TO FOAM joints. Thin and Medium CA are used on the PLASTIC TO FOAM and CARBON TO FOAM
joints. When using the Welders glue for a butt joint, apply a thin lm to each surface, allow to sit for approx ve minutes and

then assemble. Note that this method will create a nearly instant bond, so locate carefully when bringing the two pieces together. If
alignment is necessary or a slip joint, do not allow the glue to tack up, simple apply and join immediately, you will have several

minutes to locate the two parts before the glue sets up. In most cases the parts being glued can be handled with care in 30 minutes,
full cure is approx 24 hours.

The above picture items will be needed to nish the model.
A power combo (Twisted Hobbys’ Combo pictured above), a

3s/650-850mAh battery and a fresh tube of Welders. Note -

the Battery and Welders are NOT part of the power combo.

Start the build by locating the two wing halves, the elevator

and the rudder. Fold back as shown and weigh them down

for about an hour. This will loosen up the hinge line and

allow the surfaces to move much more freely. The wing

hinge will be stiff... work it slowly so it doesn’t tear

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Locate the wood kit and mount a fresh

blade into you hobby knife.

Cut out the Fuselage Doublers, the

Wing Mount Cross Members and the

little round Magnet Holders. Also locate

the magnets from the hardware bag.

Press a magnet into the Wood Holder

(the one with the larger hole). Make

ush with one side. Glue with Med. CA

and Kicker.

The magnet assembly installs with the

smaller hole to the OUTSIDE of the

fuselage.

Repeat for the second side.

With thin CA, attach the round piece

with the smaller hole to the side you

made the magnet ush with.

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Coat the inside of the magnet hole in

the fuselage with a little Welders.

Install as shown, again remembering

that the smaller hole is facing out.

Press into the hole... should be ush to
both the inside and outside of the foam

fuselage piece.

Repeat for the other side.

Wipe away any extra Welders

LEVEL OF WATER PROOFING

At this point in the build you

should decide what level of water

proong you will do. If you plan to

spend a fair amount of time ying

off water, a more robust

“waterproong” (waterbug) build

would be in order. The occasional

water use... 2 or 3 times a season,

the standard (grasshopper) build

would be sufcient. If you never

intend to y off the water, omit all

the build steps that install lm or

require water proong. The only

thing you will want to do is coat the

bottom of the fuselage with some

clear duct tape or similar tape.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

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Waterbug Build Only - Locate the

pieces shown, these are the items that

will get the laminate. Skip all the steps

labeled “Waterbug” if only occasionally

ying off the water.

Waterbug Build Only - cut a piece of

1.5mil heat laminate material that will
cover the bottom of the elevator

Waterbug Build Only - The laminate

material will shrink like monokote and

will bow the foam if not careful. Only

the bottom of the elevator needs it.

Start in the middle and work outward

Waterbug Build Only - ON A TEST

PIECE OF FOAM, IRON ON A SMALL

PIECE OF THE LAMINATE (DULL SIDE

IS THE STICKY SIDE) AND

EXPERIMENT WITH TEMPERTURES

Waterbug Build Only - Cut one piece

each for the fuselage sides

LAMINATING BUILD TIPS

There are many different thickness

and brands of laminate material

out there. You should use a

laminate that has a low heat

activated glue. As an extra step to

insure a robust bond of the

laminate to the foam, 3M 77

Contact Spray glue can be used to

“dust” the area in which you will

apply the laminate to. Note, it does

not take a lot, a quick single pass
at 10 to 12 inches is plenty, more

is not better in this case. Also, it is

advised to TEST your procedure

and iron tempatures on a scrap

piece of foam and not your model.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

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Waterbug Build Only - Once you are
happy with the lm application, Trim
around the perimeter of the elevator,

and cut away the area for the hinge

bevel. A fresh blade should be used.

Waterbug Build Only - Once everything

is trimmed up, seal all the edges.

Waterbug Build Only - Repeat the

process with the outside surface of the

two fuselage pieces. Again, starting

from the center and SLOWLY working

towards the tail and nose

Lay down a small bead of Welders all

around the foam doubler.

Locate the foam and plywood fuselage

doublers as pictured above.

Waterbug Build Only - When complete,

trim as with the elevator. NOTE - Do

not cut the lm away from the notches.

Leaving them will provide covering for

the mating tabs later in the build

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 12

Spread the glue out evenly so that it

coats the whole surface. Use an old

business card or something as a

spreader.

Attach to the inside of the fueslage.

NOTE - it is VERY important to line up

all the notches and edges of the two

pieces.

The foam doubler will curl up a little as

the Welders dries, so secure everything

at with some weight for an hour or

two.

Apply a medium coat of Welders to one

side. You can use the tip of the tube to
evenly distribute the glue. And as with
the foam doubler, make sure the inside

edges line up where intended.

Locate the wood fuselage doubler. Now

is also a good time to verify that your

servos t into the cutouts. If not, le

the wood doubler a little until they t.

Repeat for the other side, again, use
some weights to keep it all at while

drying.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

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Repeat for the other side and put all the

weights back until everything has had

time to dry.

Locate the parts shown above.

Attach them and cut off the extra

length of the screws so they are ush

Start with the pieces shown above. This

will assemble into the Battery Box.

Locate all the internal bulkheads and

separate them into their individual

pieces.

Add a drop of thin CA from this side

and hit with Kicker. This will keep the

screws from backing out over time.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

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Note the orientation of the parts, Tabs

are keyed, but in some cases there is

more than one way to put these

together. Note the location of the little

hole on the piece to the right.

This piece installs as shown. again

notice the little hole.

Once you get it all together and you are

happy with the t up, re-assemble with

Welders.

DRY FIT - Notice the orientation of the

front bulkhead, the battery box and the

forward wing mount cross member.

DRY FIT - all the bulkheads to one side

of the fuselage as shown.

After the main fuselage pieces have had

time to dry, locate all the parts as
shown and notice how they are all laid
out, this will be the general position in

the fuselage.

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DRY FIT - Notice the orientations of the

rear wing mount cross member and

bulkheads shown.

DRY FIT - the main rear bulkhead.

DRY FIT - the tail section bulkhead.

DRY FIT - Close up of the front wing

mount cross member installed.

DRY FIT - looking down from the top,

everything should be pretty square as

assembled if all the tabs and slots have

mated up properly.

DRY FIT - the other side of the fuselage.
Start from the tail and work all the tabs

and notches so that they are all

engaged and fully seated.

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DRY FIT - close up of the rear wing

mount cross member installed.

DRY FIT - Close up of the tail section.

DRY FIT - Locate the belly parts shown.

DRY FIT - the upper nose cover.DRY FIT - the bottom front section.

DRY FIT - the belly pieces into their

location. If everything is assembled

correctly up to this point there should

be no trimming needed.

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DRY FIT - Notice that one side is relief

cut so that the part will bend easily and

t the designated area.

DRY FIT - Look carefully at the nose,

you will see that there is a little

interference were the two pieces come

together. Trim an angle onto the lower

piece, go slow and test t often.

DRY FIT - When you have removed

enough material from the edge of the

lower piece, the top and bottom nose

pieces should t up as shown.

Double check that the servos t. Do not

glue them in at this time, just make

sure the t nice.

If you are satised with the t up of all

the parts, take everything apart,

remembering how it all went together.

DRY FIT - Look everything over, make

sure that it has all gone together

square, that all tabs are fully engaged

and that you have correct orientation of

all the bulkheads.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 18

Close up of how the servo should be

seated into the cut out in the wood.
Once you are happy with the t up,

remove the servos from their postions.

Start the re-assembly of the fuselage by

putting Welders on all the mating

surfaces between the bulkhead parts

and the fuselage sides.

Then install the bottom and use

masking tape to hold all the parts in

place.

Front section / battery box area shown

above, with masking tape holding
everything together. Set the fuselage
aside now for a couple hours so that

the glue can dry.

Wing saddle area. Also use some

masking tape here to keep all the cross

members tight in their slots.

Nose pieces shown, again masking tape

being used to hold all the seams

together while the glue dries.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 19

If you have not already done so, now is

a good time to test your electronics.

Above is a picture of a typical layout for

this model.

Create a new model on your radio and

bind per your mfg’s procedures. The

next couple steps will show how to mix

in another channel for the second

motor and which wing conf. to use.

WING TYPE

For this model, pick the “Dual Ail” wing

type and “Normal” tail type.

MIX 3

Used to mix left (port) motor with

rudder, with rudder being the master.

MIX 2

Used to mix right (starboard) motor

with rudder, with rudder being the

master.

MIX 1

Used to control throttle of motor #2

(gear channel). Right motor (starboard)

is plugged into the throttle channel and

the left (port) motor into gear channel.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 20

Glue the arm extenders onto the back
side of the single sided servo arms. CA
or Welders. Wrap with thread for extra

strength. Large hole may need enlarged

depending on your servos.

Make sure the servos are electronically

centered and mount the arms with
their screws as shown. Servos with

extenders are for the ailerons, the other

two are for the tail surfaces.

If a couple hours have passed already,
the fuselage should have dried enough

now to handle. Carefully remove all the

tape. Check for any loose or open

seams.

Install the rest of the servos.

NOTE - the arms for the tail servos face

to the INSIDE. Also, do not glue the

servos in at this time.

Install the aileron servo as shown, with

the arm extending thru the fuselage.

Waterbug Build Only - remove the

plastic covering from the slot in the

fuselage where the aileron control arms

will protude.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 21

Locate the four small plastic links as

shown and the small (1mm ID)

threaded ends. Thread the links on so

that there is approx 1/8” of THREAD

still showing for adjustment if needed.

TEMPORARILY mount the links onto

the elevator and rudder servo horn’s

outer most hole. Use a stick pin or

other item that will drop thru the hole

of the connector and horn freely.

Locate the 1mm round push rods and

the white push rod guide tubes as

shown.

Locate the upper rear deck of the

fuselage.

Secure the rod guides with a drop or

two of medium CA at each of the

bulkhead points... hit with Kicker.

Press the push rod GUIDES into their

respective bulkhead slots. They should

line up perfectly when fully seated.

Leave a 30mm gap between the end of

the guide and the end of the ferrule.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 22

Feed the push rod guides thru the

slots, making sure that they do not get

crossed in the process.

Dry Fit and when happy with how

everything lines up, remove and add

Welders to all the mating surfaces.

Use some small tabs of tape or stick

pins to hold things in place while the

glue dries.

Test t that you have made the slit long

enough.

Cut out the two horns for the tail, the

shorter one with the 4 large lighting

holes is for the elevator, and the longer

one with 5 holes is for the rudder. Cut

the partial slit all the way through.

Locate the tail sections and the G10 kit

with the control horn on it.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 23

With the nozzle of the Welders tube,

force some glue into the slit, and also

apply a thin coat to the mounting area

of the horn.

Install the horn, wipe away any extra

glue, bend part of the elevator up and

use the crease in the foam as a

reference to line up the holes in the

horn to, as shown above.

Check on the hinge cut out side that

the prole of the horn matches the

prole of the hinge cut.

.... install the horn into the slit and

repeat the process of lining it up like

was done with the elevator.

Flip the rudder over so that the smooth

side of the hinge area is facing you and

with the nozzle of the Welder’s, force

some glue into the slit and coat the

base of the horn...

Locate the slit on the rudder, should be

on the hinge cut side. Make a slit all

the way through. NOTE - the horn will

get installed from the OTHER SIDE.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 24

Double check that the prole of the

horn is matched up with the prole of

the hinge cut.

Waterbug Build Only - hold the elevator

up to the fuselage and take note of

where the two meet up.

Waterbug Build Only - remove the

laminate material in the area noted.

This is being done so that there will be

a foam to foam joint when the two

pieces are glued together.

Slide the tab of the rudder into the slot

of the elevator... no glue yet.

Next... we will glue the elevator and

rudder together.

Waterbug Build Only - Once you have

slit/scored the laminate, you can peel it

away.

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page 25

When you get to about an inch of

clearance, stop there...

... and add some glue to the areas that

will contact each other

Fully engage the two pieces, wipe away

any extra glue.

While the tail is curing... locate the two

wing halves and the wood parts kit.

Set aside and let the glue set up.

Make sure that the two pieces are

square to each other.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 26

Remove the center wing rib from the kit

as shown above.

Test t the rib into the fuselage as

shown.

The rear tongue and front tab should

both engage without any force.

Once the glue has tacked up, attach the

two pieces. If the prole or the rib does

not match perfectly to the wing, use the

REAR and BOTTOM edges as the ones

to line up ush with.

Use the Tack Up Method.... coat one

side of the rib and the mating surface of

the wing core with a medium skim coat

and let sit for about 5 minutes.

Note how the open area of the wing rib

lines up with the center of the black

plastic nut ange. Later, the included

plastic thumb screw will pass thru this

area and hold the wing in place.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 27

Snip away the little connector spacers. The Wing Mounting Screw should pass

through freely.

Using the tack up method again, coat

the mating surfaces with a medium

skim coat of Welders and allow to tack

up.

Make sure the push rods are on the

TOP of the elevator.

Once the tail section has dried, it can

be attached to the main fuselage. Test

t everything rst, so you know how it

all goes together.

Once the Welders has tacked up, bring

the two pieces together. Make sure to

align them as accurately as possible.

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page 28

Line up the front rudder tab with the

slot in the upper fuselage deck.

Fully engage the tabs of the rudder into

the fuselage. Check to make sure all

the surfaces are meeting up ush.

Once satised with the tment, remove

and add Welders to all the mating

surfaces and re-install while the glue is

wet.

Round up the thick carbon rounds, a

straight edge, a measuring device and a

hobby knife with a fresh blade. The

tops side will be done rst.

Sight down the fuselage and make sure

the tail section is true in all directions.

Check for Squareness

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page 29

The object is to cut a slot in the wing to

receive the carbon round. Notice that

there is a notch in the wing rib that is

provided as clearance for the carbon

round.

Using the notch as a reference, line up

your straight edge so that it passes

thru the notch and is parallel to the

wing. If using the leading edge slot as

reference it should be approx 8mm.

Adjust back and forth until you have

the exact same measurement on both

sides of the wing.

Lay the carbon round back into the slot

so that it is just below ush.

Remove the rod and force Welders into

the slot with the nozzle of the tube. If

there is a bunch of built up glue on the

nozzle, clean that off rst so that the

nozzle will “glide” along the slot.

Hold the straight edge rm and cut a
slot approx 2mm deep that is slightly

longer then the round and centered

from side to side. Test t the round into

the slot, it should be just below ush.

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page 30

Wipe away any extra glue with a paper

towel. Just go over it once. Repeated

passes will mess up the printed

graphics.

Repeat for the bottom side... cut a slit

2mm deep that is parallel to the wing....

..... squeeze in some Welders....

With the bottom side facing up, make

sure the wing lays at. Add a little

weight to the area around the hinge line

and let it all dry.

.... and wipe away any extra glue with a

single pass.

.... lay in the carbon round to just

below ush...

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page 31

Locate the wood parts kit and remove

the remaining parts, which should

make up the motor mounts.

Dry Fit - Notice that there is a notch on

the rewall part, this is the BOTTOM,

locate the wing pieces into their

respective slots, so that the rewall can

be mounded as shown above.

Dry Fit - Do both sided, making sure

that the wing pieces are fully engaged

into the provided slots.

... and from the side. Notice that both

rewalls are inline with each other. It
should also be noted that the rewalls
are pointing slightly upward, this is by

design and is correct orientation.

Make sure everything looks good from

the front.....

Inspect to make sure that the notch in

the rewall is at the bottom.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 32

Secure all the parts to one another and

to the wing with thin CA and Kicker.

Using the screws provided with the

motor, mount the motors to the

rewall. If using the TH Power Combo

motors, drill the holes out to 1.5mm,

this will keep the wood from splitting.

Repeat with the other motor.

As an option, the ESC’s could be

mounted inside the cabin area, approx

as shown above. Extension wires would

be needed and for safe measure the
ESC’s should still be water proofed.

If deciding to mount the ESC’s outside

the cabin area, no motor extensions
would be needed. Water proof them,

and make sure the wires are buried

where the cross into the fuselage.

From the bottom of the wing, mark off

an area that is approx 2.50” wide and

centered on the rib. This is the area

inside the cabin.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 33

If choosing to mount the ESC’s in the

cabin area, some short extensions will

need to be made up, this will be done

shortly in an upcoming step.

Water proong the ESC’s and Rx is

next. Either Plastic Dip or Liquid

Electrical Tape will work. In this build,

Plastic dip will be used for the ESC’s

and Liquid Electrical Tape for the RX.

Read the instructions on the Plastic Dip
Can. Grab one of the ESC’s by the wires

as shown, and dunk it into the can.

You could also dunk the RX, just keep

the pins clear. This build uses Liquid

Electrical Tape. Coat the areas where

the board is exposed and to cracks

where water could get in.

Do both ESC’s. Note at rst it seems

that this is adding a lot of weight, but

one it is all dry, added weight of two

dunks is only a gram or two.

Let some of the extra material drip off.

Set aside for about 30 minutes and

dunk a second time, and again, let the

extra drip off.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 34

Once the Liquid Electrical Tape has

dried, inspect to verify that all the

components are sealed and covered.

If there is anything exposed, just add a
little more of the Liquid Electrical Tape

to the area in question.

Set everything aside and let dry for the

recommended time.While these are

drying you can make the extensions

needed if you have chosen to mount the

ESC’s inside the cabin.

Once the wires are completely buried,

the exact length of the wire needed to

reach the motor can now be

determined.

Note that the slit to bury the wires will

need to be a little deeper in the area

where the bullets are.

Attach the extensions to the ESC side

and cut some slits so that the wires can

be buried in the wing. Make sure the

ESC’s are still within the marks that

were made earlier.

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page 35

Cut the extensions to length and attach

bullets. Protect with heat shrink, clear

heat shrink was used in this build, but

any color could be used.

Make sure the wires are buried deep

enough to allow the motor pod cover to

set ush.

Repeat the process for the other side.

A patch of HD clear tape will be applied

over the area where the wires were

buried. This will add some strength

back. Tape off the area and lay down a

couple beads of Welders...

Now is a good time to make sure motor

direction is correct. The right motor

should be plugged into the throttle

channel and the left motor into the gear

channel. Pull red wire from left ESC.

Mount the ESC’s in position as shown

with a dab of low temp hot glue.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 36

... and with an old business card,

spread the Welders out to a skim coat

that is about as wide as the HD tape.
Allow the glue to tack. Doing this will

give the HD tape a stronger grip.

Once the glue has tacked up, cut a

piece of clear HD packing tape to t the

area. If you use masking tape to

contain the glue area, it an be removed

now.

Lay the tape down and press rm to get

it all stuck down good. Repeat for the

other side.

Once the glue has tacked up, attach the

covers.

Tack up method will be used to attach

these. Apply a skim coat of Welders to

each of the mating surfaces. Start with

the bottom side.

Cut out all the cowling covers as shown

above.

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page 37

Repeat the process for the top side. Completed.

Locate the aileron control surface

horns.

Remove the horn and squeeze in some

Welders. Put a skim coat on the

mounting area of the horn and install.

Test t the horn, make sure the slit is

cut so that the hole in the horn is

allowed to line up directly over the

hinge line.

20mm in from the edge of the aileron,

cut a slit to accept the horn.

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page 38

Wipe away any extra glue and double

check alignment with the hinge line.

Repeat for the other side.

Locate the brass ferrules, clevises and

carbon push rods.

Center the rudder.The other ferrule, attaches to the
middle hole of the rudder control horn.
Install the tiny brass pin in far enough

that it snaps into place.

With thin CA, attach the ferrule to one

end of each rod.

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page 39

From the end of the ferrule, measure

30mm...

... and cut away the white push rod

guide tube.

Clean out the end of the tube with the

tip of a hobby knife. Repeat this and

the pervious four steps for the elevator.

There should be a little extra carbon

rod as shown, this will be cut away in a

moment.

Repeat for the elevator, and snap them

each onto their respective servo horns

Use the outer most hole, and make

sure the pins are fully engaged.

Take the longer of the two rods that you

just glued the end to, and slide it into

the guide tube for the rudder.

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page 40

Slide on one of the two push rod guide

supports.

Just let the guide hang freely for now.

Center the rudder and cut the carbon

rod with a pair of sharp side cutters.
For reference, once the rod is inside the
ferrule, it will extend approx to the area

where the threads start.

Elevator is next... same basic steps.While keeping the rudder centered,

apply a drop of thin CA and let it

wick/run into the ferrule, hit with

Kicker.

Deburr the end where cut and slide into

the ferrule. Make sure that the rudder

is still centered.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 41

Hold the elevator control surface level,

and cut the rod so that it is just shy of

the threaded area of the ferrule. Slide

on the guide support and leave loose for

now.

Deburr the end of the carbon rod, and

slide onto the ferrule.

Again... while holding the elevator level,

apply thin CA and Kicker as was done

with the rudder push rod.

Thread the clevis and threaded ferrule

together so that the OVERALL length is

1.00 inches.

Locate all the pieces for the aileron

push rods as shown above.

Stick the push rod guide support into

the pre-cut hole and glue with CA and

Kicker. Repeat for the elevator.

installing the guides will cause the

push rods to bow. this is normal.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 42

Insert the rod into the ferrule and glue

with thin CA and Kicker. Repeat with

the CLEVIS ONLY on the other end of

the control rod.

With the wing attached to the fuselage,

attach the control rod as shown, use

the middle hole on the extended servo

arm. Repeat for the other side.

Locate the two thin carbon strips from

the hardware bag and the SFG,s/Wing

Skids.

Repeat for the other side.In a at, constrained condition, glue

the spar in with thin CA and Kicker.

Insert the carbon strip into the pre-cut

slit.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 43

Tips are next. It should be noted that

these parts are Depron and FOAM

SAFE glue MUST be used when

attaching them to the Wingtip Skids.

Attach as shown. Apply a couple small

beads of CA to the white part, spray the

tip of the skid with Kicker and join the

two pieces. Parts are cut so their

common edges match and will line up.

Next the Wingtip skids will be

attached... start by applying a bead of

Welders to the slot in the wing and

other mating surfaces

Wipe away any extra glue.Make sure it goes all the way in, and

that it is square to the wing.

While the Welders is still WET, slide the

skid on, with the carbon facing inward.

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page 44

Repeat the process for the other side. Locate all the windscreen parts as

pictured above.

Hold the windscreen up to the fuselage

as shown. NOTE THE ORIENTATION.

With a Sharpe, mark where the edges of

the fuselage are.

Attach the allen head screw and plastic

nut as shown. Head of the allen head

screw should be facing INWARD.

Repeat for the other side.

With a straight edge, line up on the

marks and fold the plastic.

Make a mark on the other end as well.

There should be four small marks in

the positions as indicated above by the

arrows.

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page 45

Install the windscreen. The heads of the

screws should engage into the little

round wood washers, and held in place

by the magnets.

If you have not already attached all the

wires inside the cabin, you can do that

now. Double check that all the controls

are going the right direction. Don’t

worry yet about the amount of throw.

Double check that the motors are

rotating in the proper direction.

Grasshopper Build - Mask off the sides

as shown in the previous picture and
mist the side and bottom with 3M 77

Spray Contact Glue.

Grasshopper Build - If you skipped the

Waterbug Build waterproong steps at

the beginning of the manual, but intend

to occasionally y off water, you will

need to do these next couple steps.

Don’t forget that when you remove the

wing you MUST REMOVE AT LEAST

ONE END OF THE AILERON CONTROL

ROD.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 46

Grasshopper Build - Cover the sides

with clear packing tape and trim ush.

Grasshopper AND Waterbug Build -

with Heavy Duty or clear Gorilla tape,

cover the bottom surfaces. Trim ush

and seal the edges with Welders

Hook up all the electronics inside the

Cabin again, and re-check that

everything is functioning normally.

Now is also the time to set the control

throws.... Aileron should be set to

approx ±40 degrees

Make sure and set up a mix so that the

second motor is also controlled by the

throttle cut condition.

If using independent throttle channels

for each of the motors, a mix can be

setup to augment rudder control with

differential thrust.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 47

This completes the basic build. There are several online

resources available for this specic model, and EPP foamies

in general. One of the best online resources for this model is

the RC Groups thread that was started specically for the

Puddle Star.

RC Groups Puddle Star Build and Discussion Thread

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2279304

This model is sure to impress your ying buddies, a 3D

capable, twin engine seaplane, and if you decide to create

some mixes for differential thrust, there is a whole new set

of maneuvers waiting for you.

Elevator - set for approx ±45 degrees. Rudder - set for approx ±45 degrees

If using the Twisted Hobbys’ CG

Machine, locate the CG approx 3.50

inches from the LEADING edge of the

wing OR approx 1.00 inch BEHIND the

wing spar.

Double check everything one last time.

Find some pristine snow, a grassy park,

or ultimately a pond of water and have

some fun.

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 48

center of

gravity

control

throws

C.G. - 11.61in from nose of aircraft

Locate all the electronic to achieve

indicated CG point. Using slightly

different sized batteries can also help

with achieving proper CG.

For best 3D performance, balance for

level ight upright and inverted with

little to no elevator input. Also power off

down line should be straight down

without any pull or tuck.

Extreme & 3D

Ailerons: +/- 40 deg

Rudder: +/- 45 deg

Elevator: +/- 45 deg

Expo to suit

Beginner & Sport

Ailerons: +/- 20 deg

Rudder: +/- 25 deg
Elevator: +/- 25 deg

Expo to suit

In order to achieve the control throws as

described for “Extreme and 3D, it is

imperative that the control surfaces,

linkages, rod ends, etc, all move freely

over the entire range, including range

end points.

Failure to do so will result in damage to

either the servos or mechanical

components

11.61 inches

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 49

pre-flight & testing

Motor: Should run smoothly at all stick positions, and transition
smoothly from low to high RPM. If the motor is turning
backwards, reverse two of the three wires between the motor
and ESC. Check that the screws holding the motor to the
airframe are tight and secure.

Flight Controls: Set all to neutral or level positions with sticks
in the neutral positions. Ensure that all controls and linkages
move freely. Double check that all hinged areas are free from
rips or tears. Verify proper control surface directions. Right Roll
is – right aileron up, left aileron down, Left Roll is left aileron up
and right aileron down.

Batteries: Should be fully charged prior to each flight. Watch
tra n smi t ter b a tte r y lev el and f ollo w manu fact ures
recommendations. Motor battery should not be drained any
further than recommended by the manufacture, use a timer to
prevent an over discharged condition.

Radio: All trims should be set to neutral and throttle in the low
position. Check that rate switches and mixes are set properly.

Range Check: With and without the motor running per radio
manufactures instructions. If there is insufficient range or
significant reduction with the motor running, resolve and re-test
before flying.

The fi rst flights should be done with the CG at the
recommended position, and reduced control rates until
comfortable with your handling of the aircraft. As your
experience with the aircraft grows experiment with different CG
points and control rates. After all flights, check the aircraft over
for damage and/or other items that may adversely affect flight
performance.

This Extreme 3D Plane is a full performance aircraft and will
provide hours of entertainment, including the occasional crash.
If, as the result of a crash, the foam tears, simply glue with
Welders or CA. Many pilots prefer Welders because it remains
flexible after drying. CA however, is more suited for the “quick”
repair.

This aircraft can be flown indoors or outdoors. It is however
designed specifically for flying outdoors off of water. Landing
on grass or snow is also an alternative, hard surface landings
should be avoided.

Storage

This EPP plane should be stored resting it's landing gear or
hung from the prop. Storing in other fashions that put stress on
the airframe could cause the airframe to distort. Storage in a
hot car could also cause damage.

Preght Checks Preght Checks

Be safe and enjoy, thank you again for purchasing a Twisted Hobbys’ Product!

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 50

notes and s/u Sheet

Rev: 2015.08.16.v01a

page 51

TIPS AND TRICKS

 A good building surface is —drop ceiling“ panel from a local hardware store on a nice flat board

 Use parchment paper between the areas being glued and your work surface

 Heavy flat objects (like books, batteries, etc.) could be used to hold everything flat

 When resetting your radio, start with all the ATV‘s or throw volumes at 100%.

 Make sure you have set the direction of the servos correctly before attempting t o trim for zero position.

 If possible try the servo horns in different locations to determine which position will require the least amount of

sub trim.

 Installing the servo horns in thei r final location and attaching quick links to the servos may make servo

installation much easier later.

 On the Orange Rx, the negative pin is the one closest to the flat side of the circuit board.

 Keep a good supply of sharp knife blades handy when building a foamie airplane.

 Use low temp hot glue for gluing electronics, this will allow for easy removal later if necessary. The low temp hot

glue can be “released” by painting” the glue bead wit h an alcohol soaked cotton swab a couple times.

 A business card with the corners clipped off can be used as a small square.

 Allowing the Welders glue to set for five minutes before assembly will shorten the tack up time, just be sure if

doing it this way that you get the parts into posit ion quickly, as the glue will start to bond on contact. Any joints
that you feel are going to require adjustment , it is best to assembly the pieces while the glue is wet. The Green
(high tack) masking tape works the best when used to clamp things together on an EPP foam airplane.

 When gluing the rudder to the fuselage, stick pins could be used to ho ld in position if wanting to handle the

airframe before it is completely dry

 A rotary tool with a cutting wheel could be used to produce grooves in fiber glass parts instead of coarse sand

paper. Use a hatch pattern. This creates more bonding area for the glue.