TufFlight Tiger User Manual

5376 Amalfi Drive, Clay, NY 13041 ww w.tufflight.com

The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!

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Wingspan: 30"
Wing Area: 243 sq in
Length: 44"
Flying W eight: ~3lb depending on power system

Hello, and thanks for buying the Tiger -- an exciting sport electric ducted fan (EDF) powered plane offering great

performance and uncommon durability for the advanced R/C flyer .

Caution: The Tiger is a ver y fast plane capable of 90 mph+ speeds, and requir es car e in setup and operation.

Please obey safety rules for your motor and battery and flying site. It is assumed the builder and flyer have
experience in high energy EDF power systems and flight and ar e familiar with high power lithium polymer battery
installations before attempting to assemble and operate this plane.

Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and

following the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.

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Fan: 70mm OD
Radio: 3+ channels, elevon mix (delta wing) capability,

optional rudder

Servos: (2) Hitec HS 85 MG or equivalent

(1) thin servo if rudder desired (HS 125 MG)

We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!

Items Included in kit:

Foam Parts:

EPP fuse blocks in shucks (Front, Rear , Middle)
wing cores in shucks (right/left)

Wood / Plastic Parts:

3/16" balsa sheet
(2) pine blocks
5 mil tail skin laminating plastic (flexible)
10 mil wing skin laminating plastic (stiff)
10 mil LE wrap laminating plastic (flexible)
(1) 5 mil thrust tube sheet
(1) 1/8" laser cut parts sheet (intake / nose parts)
(2) molded nose halves (right/left)
(1) 1/16" x 1-1/2'' x 9" clear plastic
(1) 0.015" intake wrap plastic sheet
(1) 0.040” intake "V" clear plastic material
(1) Dixie cup tail cone

Rev 1.0

Hardware:

(1) 6-32 blind nut
(3) 6-32 nylon screws (2 extra)
(2) 1/8” x 5-1/2" elev axle wire
(1) 1/8” ID x 4" brass elev axle tube
(2) elev control horn tiller
(2) 3mm x 5mm elev tiller screw
(2) Sullivan metal clevis
(1) 8" Sullivan yellow inner nyrod
(2) push rods threaded 1 end
(8) magnets
(3) #64 rubber bands

This Instruction Manual

Page 1

Items needed to complete:

Equipment:

70mm fan/motor
~3300 mAH 4S to 6S LiPo battery
ESC / BEC
RX
(2) mini/micro servos (HS 85 MG ideal)

(metal gear servos HIGHL Y recommend to

avoid stripped gears)

(1) optional rudder servo (HS 125 MG ideal)
Battery/ESC connectors as desired

Adhesives:

thin and medium CA
CA accelerator (kicker)
Goop or Shoe Goo (any variety)
Gorilla or “Sumo” glue (white/clear variety)
Gorilla or Elmer’s “Nano” glue (amber variety)
3M77 Spray adhesive
15 or 30 minute epoxy
masking tape
scotch tape
Balsa Rite (or nitrate dope)

Covering / Paint:

Ultracote

(1/4 roll and trim as desired for fuselage)

primer / filler / paint as desired suitable for plastic

nose, wing and tail surfaces
lightweight spackle filler (Dap, Red Devil)
microballoons filler

soldering iron
solder
soldering “jig” (ie, extra pair of hands)
3mm hex wrench
straight / phillips screwdrivers
standard pliers
long nose pliers or forceps
tweezers
Z bend pliers
wire cutters
hammer
vise
weights / support blocks
Drill with #25 (0.15”), 5/32”, 9/64”, 3/16” bits
Dremel T ool w/ drum sander, cutof f wheel
Dremel T ool router attachment
atomizer water bottle
petroleum jelly
rubbing alcohol
laquer thinner
scotch brite pad
acid brushes
popsicle sticks
chopsticks / bamboo skewers
1/2” and 1/4” dowels
vacuum with long soft bristle attachment
flat building table, at least 4 ft long

Helpful T ools:

40 grit sandpaper on block

(available at auto finishing stores

and Sears)
40, 80, 100, 200 grit sanding tools
small rat tail file
fine felt tip pen
scissors
curved “lexan cutting” scissors (for car bodies)
12” ruler/straight edge
4 foot long ruler/straight edge
angle finder
hobby knife
utility knife
scrap of sheet rock as a “cutting board”
plastic wrap (Glad, Saran, etc.)
heat gun
covering iron

Page 2

Make tail parts using paper templates

You’ll need : centerfold template pages, pen,

scissors, hobby knife, razor saw,
balsa sheet, medium CA, kicker,
plastic wrap, 5 mil laminating film

(second longest piece)

Step 6: Cut out laminate pieces as shown.Step 1: Gather parts and tools

alcohol helps to
remove pen marks

Step 2: Remove the centerfold templates from
the manual.

Step 3: Cut out the elevator and vertical fin
templates to the outer line as shown.

Use the layout
diagrams on the
templates to
insure they all fit

Step 4: Trace around the templates onto the
laminating film (shiny side).

Step 7: Wipe / clean off pen marks

Step 8: T rim the fin and elevator templates

to inner outline for balsa parts.

Use the layout
diagrams on the
templates to
insure they all fit

Step 9: Trace around templates onto balsa
sheet as shown

Be sure to note
“right” and “left”
halves (laminate
has one adhesive
side)

Step 5: Continue tracing out all elevator and
vertical fin parts

Step 10: Continue for all balsa tail parts

Page 3

Step 1 1: Cut balsa pieces along lines as
shown

Step 16: Connect these marks (repeat for
both sides)

Step 12: Sand edges as needed where they join
together for a nice fit.

Step 13: Apply CA to mating fin pieces as
shown

Step 14: Press parts together and apply
kicker

Step 17: Scribe a centerline around the entire
perimeter of the fin.

The fragile thin TE
will be protected
by plastic
laminations which
extend beyond TE
and adhere to
themselves

Step 18: Sand the LE round and TE to a
“knife” point

Note extreme
taper with thickest
point at 1/3
chordline

Step 19: Side view showing airfoil shape

These marks are
for sanding guides
later on

Step 15: Mark the vertical fin roughly 1/3
from the LE on tip and root

Apply laminating film to vertical fin

You’ll need : covering iron, iron thermometer,

balsa vertical fin, ruler, small scissors,
vertical fin laminations(2)

Step 20: Gather parts and tools.

Page 4

Do NOT trim the
TE edge yet!

Step 21: Preheat your iron to 250 deg F.

Give yourself at
least 3/8” extra at
the LE and center
the piece
otherwise.

Step 22: Iron the laminating film to the fin as
shown starting from center outward.

Film will shrink
only slightly but
take care not to
warp the part as
you proceed

Step 23: Smooth out film to edges (do not
wrap film around any edges yet)

Step 26: Trim the tip and root edges only
flush with the balsa with scissors or knife.

Step 27: Revisit LE, and tip edges to iron them
down tight as needed.

Leave the TE
alone for now

Step 28: Repeat steps for other side of the fin
lamination.

Step 24: Trim the LE so as to give 3/8”
overlap

Step 25: Iron the LE around the front as
shown to the other side.

Step 29: Now iron the TE laminations
together so the glue sides meet well

This cools the
edge while
holding it straight
against a flat
surface

Step 30: T o get a nice sharp edge, apply a
ruler to the TE immediately after iron

Page 5

Step 31: Check the fin for straightness- adjust
with heat and slight pressure if necessary

Step 36: Carefully cut through the top skin
along the line with knife as shown.

Using a finger as a
“depth gauge”
helps avoid
cutting the other
side

Step 32: Trim the TE leaving about 1/16”
beyond the balsa.

OPTIONAL Rudder

You’ll need : pen, sharp hobby knife, ruler,

medium CA, sanding block (100 grit)

Step 33: Gather parts and tools if rudder
control desired.

Step 34: Using fin template, mark the
location of the rudder as shown.

Step 37: Carefully extend cut into balsa being
careful NOT to touch bottom lamination

It’s ok if the balsa
breaks unevenly-­we’ll fix that later.

Step 38: When you’ve cut deep enough,
flex the rudder to snap it free.

Step 39: Now scribe another line about 3/
16” toward the LE from the first line.

Step 35: Scribe a line on one side of the
rudder connecting the marks.

Step 40: Cut away the lamination skin strip as
shown.

Page 6

Step 41: Fold the hinge all the way back on
itself as shown.

Be careful NOT to
sand through skin
hinge!

Just sand the
balsa and an
angle

Step 46: Bend the wire over in a vise at the
1” mark.

Step 42: Carefully sand away the balsa to give
relief to the rudder motion.

After glue cures,
flex and sand as
needed to free the
hinge.

Step 43: Apply medium CA to the hinge
area and wipe clean. Set aside to cure.

Make elevators (stabilators)

You’ll need : 1/8” wire axles, hammer, vise,
angle finder, sanding block, pen, pencil,

covering iron, iron thermometer,
balsa elevators, ruler, Dremel tool
gorilla glue, water, plastic wrap, weights,
elevator laminations (4)

Step 44: Gather parts and tools.

Step 47: Bend to right angle as shown. Repeat

for other wire.

Do for other wire
also which should
be a mirror image
when finished.

Step 48: Using elevator template, mark
location of second bend as shown.

Step 49: Place wires in vise as shown at
marks.

Step 45: Measure axle wire 1” from end

Step 50: Bend both wires 10 degrees

Page 7

DO NOT laminate
them yet!

Just get them
sanded nicely.

Step 51: Now prepare balsa elevators as
you did for the rudder steps.

Step 52: Using the elevator templates, poke
through to the wood pieces to locate axles

Step 53: Align axles to your marks and trace
location as shown.

Step 56: Close-up showing axle groove
taking shape

Step 57: T est fit the axles into the grooves and
adjust groove as needed for nice fit.

Do NOT sand the
other end!

(only where the
balsa will be
glued)

Step 58: Rough up the axles where they fit
into the balsa.

Step 54: Left and right axles marked

A Dremel tool with
router attachment
is perfect for this
task.

A knife and small
file will also work
fine

Step 55: Now make a groove in the axle
marks to fit the axles.

Note: Instead of
Gorilla Glue, epoxy
may be used. Skip
this step if using
epoxy.

(Gorilla glue sands
much better)

Step 59: Squirt some water into the groove
as shown.

Any amber colored
polyurethane glue
will work.

Elmers “Nano”
glue is shown here.

Step 60: Apply amber Gorilla glue into the
groove as shown.

Page 8

Step 61: Apply axle into the groove.

Step 66: Trim and wrap the LE in the same

way also

Step 62: Repeat for both elevators and weight
down using plastic wrap as shown.

Step 63: After glue fully cured, trim glue
which foams up and squeezes out.

Step 64: Sand the joint flush as shown.

Step 67: Finish and repeat for both elevator

halves.

Make wing

You’ll need : wing cores and shucks, pen, sanding block,

brand new hobby knife blade, scissors,
covering iron, iron thermometer, water,
ruler, pine block, white gorilla glue,
wing lamination sheets (large / small),
masking tape, small pliers/forceps

Step 68: Gather parts and tools.

Step 69: Get one of the wing shucks and

hold it so the TE faces you as shown.

Step 65: Now apply laminations to the eleva­tors as you did for the vertical fin.

We want to protect
the “knife edge”
TE of the wing
core at all costs!

Step 70: Gently pry apart the shucks being
careful not to tear the fragile TE.

Page 9

from the shucks as needed.

This provides top
and bottom
“beds” to hold the
cores while you
work on them.

Step 76: Separate the shuck as shown.Step 71: Gently use a ruler to free the TE

Step 72: Carefully lift out the core and set aside.

Step 73: Mark the shuck at the tip edge as

shown

Step 74: Mark the root edge similarly

Step 77: Lay the cores together as shown with

the LE corners perfectly aligned.

Step 78: Mark both cores at the TE at the
shortest one.

Step 79: Lay cores with tips so LE corners
are perfectly aligned as shown.

Step 75: Transfer the marks to the “thin side”
and cut along this line with a sharp knife

Step 80: Mark the tips similarly .

Page 10

Don’t skip this
step!

You need a brand
new sharp blade
to get a clean cut
in the next strip.

Step 81: Now is the time to replace your
hobby knife blade!

Step 82: With core in the bottom bed and ruler ,
carefully slice along a line connecting your marks.

Step 83: Here you see the very thin foam
removed Repeat for other core.

Step 86: Using the core as a guide, lay out
lamination panels and trace as shown.

Step 87: Be sure to make left and rights!

Step 88: Cut the LE laminations using a

straight edge and hobby knife as shown.

When working on
the core, be
careful not to
gouge an edge,
swipe from center
OUTWARD

Step 84: Using a “scotch brite” pad, care­fully remove fuzz from shucks and cores

Step 85: Vacuum any remaining fuzz from the
shucks and cores.

Step 89: Y ou can cut the remaining edges
with scissors if you wish, or use a knife.

The foam will melt
if the iron is too
hot, so test on a
scrap piece to be
sure the laminate
glue softens and
sticks, but the
foam does not melt

Step 90: Heat iron to 250 F. If you don’t
have thermometer, test laminate and foam

Page 11

Work iron
similarly to how
you did the tail
parts.

Avoid heating one
area too long to
avoid deformation

Step 91: With core in shuck, align laminate
LE 1/8 shy of the core LE and iron down.

Leave the TE
untrimmed for now
as you did for the
tail parts.

Step 96: Trim the core root with scissors as
shown. Repeat steps for other surface.

Step 92: Cooling with a straight edge helps keep
the LE down on the curved portion of the core

Don’t iron all the
way to the edge
yet so it won’t
stick to the shuck.

Step 93: Carefully iron the laminate toward
the core TE as shown.

Step 94: Using a straight edge helps it cool
straight as shown.

Step 97: Lay the root edges together and mark
the TE to even them out as before.

Step 98: Mark the tip TE locations also.

Step 99: Trim the TE of both cores to these

marks as shown.

Step 95: Trim the core tip with scissors as
shown.

Step 100: Cut 2 strips of flexible LE laminate
wrap 1” at one end tapered to 1/2”

Page 12

Step 101: Affix the small end to the tip LE
as shown

Step 106: Measure 2-12” from TE and
mark both wing root edge centers as shown

Step 102: Center the LE strip and iron it to the
wing core as shown.

Step 103: Iron it down to wrap it to the top
and bottom surfaces.

Dihedral angle is
only flat” on the
top surface. Alter
to your taste as
desired.

Step 104: Trim / sand the root edges to give
a slight dihedral and clean edge.

Step 107: Use pine block to mark wing roots
centered on the mark as shown.

Step 108: Hold wings together and transfer
marks to the other half as shown.

Step 109: Remove foam between marks to
make a pocket for the block.

Laying wings
upside down on
table with rear TE
propped up about
1/2” gives a “flat”
top surface and
slight dihedral

Step 105: T est the fit of the root edges for
dihedral angle (flat on top surface shown)

Block fits halfway
into each wing
core as shown.

Step 1 10: T est fit the block and remove foam
as needed.

Page 13

The gorilla glue in
the next step will
expand to fill
small voids up to
1/8” easily, but try
to get a good joint
with small gaps if
possible

The TE center
should NOT touch
the table. It should
be about 1/2” to 3/
4” away from the
table. Use a shim
and weights to hold
this angle.

Step 1 1 1: Insert the block and check the fit
one last time before gluing. Trim as needed.

Step 1 12: Apply white gorilla glue to wing roots
and pocket as shown.

Step 1 13: Spray water to activate glue and
mix into glue.

Step 1 16: Place wing upside down on
plastic wrap and weight while glue dries.

Step 1 17: After glue has cured carefully trim
away any glue which squirted out.

Step 1 18: T rim both sides flush

Step 1 14: T ape wing halves together as

shown.

Step 1 15: Continue taping top and bottom
surfaces as shown.

80 grit paper on a
narrow block
works well here--

Only sand the
center 1” wide
section

Step 1 19: Sand the root surfaces slightly to
gently roughen and even them out.

This will be to
cover the wing
center seam.

Step 120: Mark a 12” wide piece of laminate
1” at both ends.

Page 14

Step 121: Cut the strip 1” wide. Make two
strips.

Step 126: Align one of the pieces to the fuse
and mark hole location as shown.

Step 122: Iron the strip centered on the wing
seam as shown (top and bottom).

Step 123: Trim the strips even with the LE
and TE as shown with scissors.

St art the front int ake fuselage section

You’ll need : hobby knife, scissors, water, scotch tape,

ruler, white gorilla glue, masking tape,
front intake plastic sheet and template,
front intake frame pieces, weights, clamps,
clamps, nyrod, foam fuse front section,
1/16” clear plastic, saw, popsicle stick

Step 124: Gather parts and tools.

Step 127: Mark center of wing bulkhead area

center as shown (halfway in thickness).

repeat for both
sides of “split”

Step 128: Open the fuse section and
connect the marks with ruler and pen

Just make wide
enough to clear
the yellow nyrod

2 diagonal slices
are sufficient

Step 129: Slice a groove for the nyrod along
this line

Note one frame is
slightly smaller
than the other
around the intake
rims-- this will be
the “front” piece

Step 125: Remove the front intake frame
pieces from the parts sheet.

Step 130: Remove foam in sliced area as
shown. Repeat for other side.

Page 15

Also mark the
location of the dot

Step 131: Place the 1/16” clear plastic to
the fuse and trace outline as shown.

A band saw helps
here.

Be sure to cut
OUTSIDE the line
(leave a little to
sand closely later)

Step 132: Cut along the line to make the wing
front bulkhead. Save the remainder.

Step 133: Drill the hole at the dot location
with a #25 drill as shown.

Step 136: Cut the nyrod at 1-3/4” from one
end. Save the small piece for later .

Step 137: Mark the remaining nyrod at 1-3/4”
from one end.

Step 138: Cut the small piece from the
center of the intake template sheet.

This will be the
wing front plate

Set this aside for
later

Step 134: Align the remainder 1/16” plastic
to bottom edge and drill hole as shown.

Step 135: T est fit the nyrod into the bulkhead
hole and enlarge as needed for a good fit.

Step 139: Splice this piece to the edge of
the template to the marks where indicated.

Step 140: Cut the intake template from the
sheet.

Page 16

Step 141: Apply the template to the sheet
and trace around the border.

Step 146: Wrap the fuse area securely with
masking tape to clamp the joint shut.

Step 142: Cut the sheet with scissors. Clean of f
the lines when free.

This and following
steps must be done
in quick succession
before the glue in
each step cures

Read ahead to
familiarize yourself

Step 143: Apply white gorilla glue to area
shown.

Step 144: Insert nyrod into groove with
mark even with front of foam as shown

Step 147: Apply glue and water mist to the
wing front bulkhead area as shown.

Step 148: Apply the wing front bulkhead
and hold in place with tape.

Step 149: Smear a layer of white gorilla glue
to the entire inside intake area as shown.

Step 145: Mist glued area with water

Step 150: Mist area with water and spread
the glue with a popsicle stick.

Page 17

Be careful not to
warp the bulkhead
under uneven
pressure-- just make
sure it doesn’t
separate when the
glue foams up

Step 151: Wrap the intake sheet as shown
to prepare it for insertion.

Step 152: Place the intake sheet with the seam
overlap area toward the nyrod in the center

Step 153: Use the spare foam to press the
intake in place.

Step 156: Apply tape and clamps to wing
bulkhead to hold it straight while glue cures

two blocks make a
good support to
clear the intake
sheet which
protrudes below

Don’t forget the
weights!

Step 157: Support the bulkhead as shown and
apply weights to center foam area

Proceed to rear fuselage

You’ll need : rear fuselage section, 3M77, mineral spirits,

pen, ruler, hobby knife, 5/32”drill
white gorilla glue, brass tube, 5mm screws,
elevator tiller arms, 1/16” plastic,
Dremel tool/cutoff wheel, CA, kicker,
assembled elevators, water, popsicle stick

Step 158: Gather parts and tools.

Step 154: Be sure the intake sheet wraps

with a slight overlap as shown in the front

Step 155: Check and adjust the rear also to
insure the overlap is near the center.

Step 159: Mark the brass tube to the width
of the tiller arm as shown

Don’t make the
notch too wide or
deep, it is for the
screw in the next
step

Step 160: Grind a notch into the tube halfway
to the mark as shown.

Page 18

Step 161: Enlar ge the notch to be a round
hole to fit the screw with knife as shown.

Step 166: Align elevator to rear fuselage as
shown to mark axle location on fuse bottom

Step 162: T est fit the screw and adjust hole as
needed for a good fit.

Step 163: Cut the bushing at the mark.

Step 164: Finished bushing and tiller parts.

Make two bushings.

Step 167: Repeat for other elevator half

Step 168: Connect your marks with a ruler

Step 169: Mark the brass tube 2-3/4” and

trim the tube to this length with cutoff wheel.

Step 165: Split open the rear fuse to apply
medium CA and then clamp it shut.

Step 170: Cut out the elevator support
template and apply to the 1/16” plastic

Page 19

Step 171: Drill the holes with a 5/32” bit

Step 176: Adjust the slot as needed to fit the

brass tube.

Center the tube in
the fuselage, and
place a support
about 1/8” from
each end

Step 172: Cut the elevator supports along the
template lines.

Step 173: Clean of f any 3M77 residue with
mineral spirits.

This will be for a
slot to fit the brass
tube

Step 174: Use the support hole to mark a
depth on fuselage side as shown.

Step 177: Insert the brass tube, and mark
location for elev supports as shown.

Test fit brass tube/
support assembly
into grooves and
deepen them so
the support sits
flush to fuse
bottom

Step 178: Slice a groove for the supports
with sharp knife as shown

Step 179: Apply white gorilla glue to the
groove and slots as shown.

A Dremel tool and
router attachment
may also be used.

Step 175: Cut out the slot with a sharp knife
as shown.

Step 180: W ork the glue into the grooves with
a popsicle stick.

Page 20

to the glued slots.

Step 186: Trim the rear also.Step 181: Apply the support/tube assembly

Step 182: Press the assembly so the supports

are flush with the surface

Step 183: Allow glue to cure (it will foam up
and be trimmed later)

Continue the front intake fuselage section

You’ll need : hobby knife, scissors, Goop, 0.040” plastic,

masking tape, front fuse assembly, saw,
front intake frame pieces, medium CA,
sanding block, intake “V” template,
round sanding tools/dowels, kicker,
#25 drill, Dremel tool sander, cutting wheel

Step 184: Gather parts and tools.

Step 187: Trim any glue off which squeezes out

around the nyrod frontal area.

Step 188: Trim glue from the wing bulkhead
and wing saddle areas.

Step 189: Sand both intake frames lightly to
remove the “shine” to prepare for gluing.

Curved lexan
cutting scissors
work great for this
task.

Step 185: Trim the front intake assembly when
cured as shown.

Step 190: Apply medium CA to one of the
frames as shown.

Page 21

The central areas
should be the same
size and align
perfectly

The intake portions
of the “front” frame
center” over the
rear

Step 191: Carefully align the frames and
press together . Kick the perimeter joint.

Step 196: Use the sanding dowel to smooth
out the frame and reach the corners.

Step 192: Drill the holes with a #25 drill to clear
and enlarge.

Step 193: Mark a centerline on the smaller
intake frame as shown.

Don’t sand away
the centerline

Round only the
intake frame inner
and outer “front”
surfaces as shown

Step 194: Shape the intake rim to round the
edges. Use the centerline as a guide.

Step 197: Here is the finished frame

Step 198: Cut out the “V” intake template

Step 199: Apply the V template to the

0.040” plastic as shown.

Step 195: Make a “sanding dowel” from a
pencil and 80 grit sandpaper

Step 200: Cut out the V intake parts

Page 22

A 3/16” bit works
good but any size
will help

Step 201: Drill through the air exit in two
places to remove the “mushroom” area.

A Dremel Tool and
small cutoff wheel
are good for this
task

Step 202: Make slits in the lower “mushroom”
as shown.

Clean up the
mushroom with a
knife as shown

This is where air
exits the battery
compartment AND
where the rubber
band anchors

Step 203: Enlar ge and clean up the mush­room shape to the outline with knife as shown.

Step 206: Place the sanded edges together
and tape as shown.

Step 207: Open the joint and apply Goop to
the “hinge” area.

Step 208: Apply Goop to the rear of the
intake frame as shown.

Step 204: Sand one edge of both V intake
parts to a shallow angle as shown

Step 205: Clean any 3M77 residue with
mineral spirits.

Try to make the fit
straight and
“flush” with the
outer edge of the
frame

Step 209: Apply and tape the V intake to
the intake frame.

Step 210: Set the intake aside to dry .

Page 23

Continue fuselage assembly

You’ll need : hobby knife, scissors, pen, stabilator servos,

masking tape, all fuselage parts,
medium CA, kicker, ESC/motor wiring,
Dremel tool drum sander, white gorilla glue,
water, round sanding tool, weights,
plastic wrap, soldering tools

We want to remove
this corner-- it’s bad
for airflow!

Step 21 1: Gather parts and tools.

Step 212: Apply medium CA to the center

fuselage split as shown.

Step 213: Press the seam together and kick
the joint

Step 216: Using a pencil, mark the exposed
“corner”

Test fit several times
as necessary in
previous step to get
a smooth transition

Step 217: With a round sanding tool, remove
the marked corner area.

Step 218: Apply medium CA to front
surface of middle fuse section as shown.

Step 214: Hold the front and middle fuse­lage sections together as shown

Align the outside
edges of the
fuselage during this
step

Step 215: Looking down the front, note
anyplace there is a exposed “corner”

Step 219: Spray kicker to the rear of the
front fuse section as shown.

Step 220: Carefully mate the front and middle
fuse sections together.

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Step 221: Mark a deep “V” outline to the
front fuse as shown.

Step 226: Trace around ESC location as
shown.

Step 222: Mark a shallow “u” outline to the rear
assembly as shown.

Use a sharp knife
and work slowly

Avoid cutting into
the intake cavity

Set top aside for
later

Step 223: Slice along the entire fuse assem­bly as shown to remove the top section

Insert fan halfway
into the mid fuse.

The ESC should lie
in the mid fuse
section about 2” to
the rear of the front
section

Step 224: Lay ESC and motor components
over the fuse to determine wiring lengths

Step 227: Cut cavity for ESC to lie within.

Step 228: Place ESC heat sink exposed and

“flush” to the airflow as shown.

Step 229: Glue ESC to cavity perimeter
with medium CA .

Note separate BEC
not used in this
system. If using
BEC, place up front
near power plug.

Step 225: Fully wired power system. Note
battery plug location.

Step 230: T rim expanded glue from the rear
fuselage bottom as shown.

Page 33

servos touch
elevator tube
supports

Don’t forget plastic
wrap to stop the
weights from
sticking to the
fuselage!

Step 231: Mark locations for the stabilator
servos on rear fuse bottom as shown

Also don’t forget to
cut a slit for the
servo wire! A
couple inches is
good for now

Step 232: Slice around the perimeter of the
servo outline with a sharp knife.

Step 233: Remove foam from the servo
area to the correct depth for a flush fit.

Step 236: Install the servos and weight
down with while glue cures

Start the Nose

You’ll need : formed nose halves, Goop, laquer thinner,

electrical tape, sanding block (40 grit),
acid brush, dowel, mixing cup,
nose bulkhead pieces, medium CA, kicker,
heavy duty scissors, masking tape

Step 237: Gather parts and tools.

Step 238: Sand the surfaces of the bulk-

heads to remove the shine

Step 234: T est fit the servos and adjust
cavity as needed for a good fit.

Step 235: Apply gorilla glue and water to the
servo cavities.

Step 239: Glue one piece to the other as
shown.

Step 240: Roughly cut out the left and right
nose halves. A band saw makes this easy .

Page 34

Step 241: Trim both nose pieces to the faint
centerline.

Step 246: T ape the bulkhead in place as
shown to help hold the rear together .

Step 242: Y ou can use heavy shears if necessary .

Step 243: Closeup showing molded

centerline (leave some for precision sanding).

Step 244: Sand the nose pieces precisely to
the centerline.

Step 247: Apply a few electrical tape strips to
hold the halves together as shown.

Step 248: Apply a couple pieces of electri­cal tape along the center seam as shown.

Step 249: Remove the bulkhead in prepara­tion for gluing.

The edges should
butt together with
no gaps and fit
perfectly around
the bulkhead.

Step 245: T est fit the bulkhead between
sandings to check your progress.

Step 250: Apply Goop where the bulkhead
sits.

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in place.

Vertical Fin and optional rudder

You’ll need : rear fuselage assembly, vertical fin, pen,

rudder servo, knife, masking tape,
gorilla glue, water, 1/16” plastic scrap,
clevis, CA, rear fuselage internal “cone”,
plastic wrap

Step 256: Gather parts and tools.Step 251: Re-insert the bulkhead and tape

No need to trace
moveable rudder
portion

Step 252: Squeeze about 3 oz of Goop into a
mixing cup.

Step 253: Mix some laquer thinner into the
goop to a honey like consistency .

Step 254: T ape a dowel inside an acid brush
to give you a long handle.

Step 257: Align fit to fuselage center (seam)
and trace around perimeter as shown.

Leave the foam in
place for now

You’ll remove it
after the fuselage is
covered with
Ultracote

Step 258: Slice completely through the
outline with a sharp knife.

Step 259: Locate rudder servo roughly
halfway within the fin outline as shown.

Step 255: Apply the thinned Goop to the
inside seam as shown.

Step 260: Cut completely through the rudder
servo outline.

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Step 261: Mark the location for the servo
on the fin

Also make a slit for
the wire about an
inch long

You’ll route the
wire to the RX later

Step 266: Insert servo into pocket as
shown.

Step 262: Remove the foam and test fit the
servo-- adjust the cavity for a good fit.

Step 263: Wrap rear fuselage internal cone
neatly with plastic wrap and insert into fuse.

Step 264: Apply masking tape tightly on
either side of servo pocket as shown.

Step 267: Replace the foam to “cap” the servo
and glue in place with more gorilla glue.

Step 268: Apply masking tape to the foam
cap as shown.

Step 269: Make a slot into the rudder as
shown to fit a 1/16” thick control horn.

Step 265: Apply white gorilla glue and water
to the servo pocket sides.

Step 270: Make a rudder control horn from
scrap 1/16” plastic as shown.

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This is for clearance

Line is drawn from
corner that touches
fuselage to other end
parallel to fuse

Step 271: Insert control horn and glue in
place.

Step 272: Seal the exposed balsa edges with CA
as shown

Make elevator linkage items

You’ll need : rear fuselage assembly, pen, ruler,

knife, clevises, tiller arms, push rods,
elevators, Dremel tool cutoff wheel,
drum sander,
servo arms, tweezers, 1/8” drill bit

Step 273: Gather parts and tools

Step 276: Insert elevator axle into tube and

mark line parallel to fuselage edge

Step 277: Trim root edge to the line. Repeat
for other elevator

Step 278: With both axles in place and
touching , measure the gap as shown

A knife and
tweezers are good
for this task.

Step 274: Clean expanded glue from
elevator axle tube.

Step 275: Finish cleaning each end of the tube
with a 1/8” drill bit.

This will give 1/8”
clearance on each
side with axle ends
touching

Step 279: Split the gap measurement in half
and mark each axle end minus 1/8”

Step 280: Trim axles to marks with cutoff
wheel.

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Step 281: Deburr the ends of the axles

Step 286: Make Z bend in push rod at

correct location

Step 282: Place tiller arm over axle hole and
servo arm mark motion clearance lines as shown

Step 283: Slice the outline with a sharp knife
to a depth of the axle tube and servo

Step 284: Remove foam with a drum sander
to an even depth as shown

Step 287: Install clevis to till arm and z bend
into servo arm as shown

Make sure to
exercise full
range of servo

Don’t’ let the
arms or push
rods bind in the
foam

Step 288: Driver servo with radio or device
full range and clear cavity as needed

Configure fan components in fuselage

You’ll need : rear fuselage assembly pen, sandpaper,

knife, masking tape, scotch tape, ruler,
electrical tape, assembled fan unit,
Dremel tool drum sander, 1/2”x 13” dowel,
CA, thrust tube jigs and plastic sheet

Step 289: Gather parts and tools.

Place both tiller
and servo arms
“vertical” as
shown during
this step

Step 285: Apply push rod and clevis then
mark rod length Z bend location as shown

Depending on
lug locations,
you may need to
do this into the
middle or rear
fuselage part.
(fan shown
backwards here)

Step 290: Insert fan into rear of fuse and mark
location of lugs (if any).

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Step 291: Mark rear fuse location for wire
relief as shown

Step 296: Assemble thrust tube jig from
dowel and discs as shown

Step 292: Mark inside location for wire relief
also.

Step 293: Remove foam from area as
shown

Step 294: Slice and remove foam from fan
lug locations

Step 297: Wrap thrust tube plastic around jig
and mark location for 1/2” overlap at each end

Step 298: Trim thrust tube to marks

Step 299: An easy way to start taping the

tube is to insert into rear fuse to hold it

Step 295: T est fit the fan and trim any foam
needed so fan fits halfway into rear fuse

Step 300: Once ends are taped together apply
scotch tape to the entire seam as shown

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Equal spacers
between fuse
rear/front allows
access

Fuse holds tube
in correct
position

Step 301: Smooth down the tape

Step 302: Hold thrust tube to motor with 1/2”

overlap and mark location for wire exit

Step 303: If desired, “profile” and tape
wires together . Seal with CA.

Step 306: To insure thrust tube alignment,
you can assemble fuse and fan as shown

Step 307: S tart taping thrust tube to fan
between spacers as shown

Step 308: Remove fan/tube and finish taping

Step 304: Cut slot and clearance for wires

Step 305: Insert fan into tube and trim for

clearance as needed.

Step 309: Insert fan assembly into rear fuse
and adjust/ trim anything as needed

100 grit paper
works well

Step 310: If desired, round/sharpen inside rim
of fan to lessen air turbulence

Page 41

Join Rear and front fuse assemblies

You’ll need : rear / front fuselage assemblies, pen,

knife, masking tape,
gorilla glue, water, Goop, file,
Dremel tool, 40 grit sanding block

Step 31 1: Gather parts and tools.

Step 312: Carefully trim the foam from the

optional rudder servo as needed.

Step 313: Slice and route the rudder servo
wire to the bottom corner fuselage as shown

Step 316: Apply goop to front of fuse as
shown

Step 317: Insert intake/ V frame into place as
shown

Step 318: Apply Goop to inside corners of
“V” cavity as shown.

Step 314: Sand the foam to a smooth
contour to remove rudder ‘bump”

Step 315: Enlarge or modify battery plug
opening for your configuration

Step 319: Smooth Goop into nice “fillets”.
Do for all 4 inside V cavity corners.

Supplied hole
will fit Dean’s

Adjust for your
plug as needed

Step 320: Goop power plug into place.

Page 42

frame as shown. T ape/clamp as needed.

Step 326: Tape fuse parts tightly togetherStep 321: Plug should rest halfway into

Mount wing

You’ll need : fuselage assembly, pen, knife, wing,

masking tape, plastic wrap, weights,
gorilla glue, water, wire cutters, Dremel tool,
9/64”, 3/16” and #25 drills, saw,
1/16” plastic, pine block, blind nut,
sanding block, vaseline, 6-32 screw

Step 322: Apply masking tape to intake frame to
hold it tightly to foam.

If you glue the fan
it will be more
difficult to service

With moderate
(ab)use the fan will
stay in position
without glue

Step 323: OPTIONAL - Apply glue
SP ARINGL Y to fan/fuse joints

Alternately, 3M77
may be used here

Spray into a cup
and apply to
mating surfaces

Step 324: Apply glue to fuselage as shown

Step 327: Gather parts and tools.

Step 328: Mark center locations on fuselage

and wing bottoms for later alignment

Step 329: Mark nyrod 1/2” from wing
bulkhead as shown

Step 325: Press front and rear fuselage
assemblies together

Step 330: Trim nyrod to mark

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plastic wrap
protects the
fuselage

(it is folded back
here)

Step 331: Make cavity in wing front to clear
nyrod as shown

Skip ahead to step
340 to see wing
plate

Locate and drill
center hole first,
then trace outline

Step 332: Make wing plate from 1/6”
plastic by drilling and fitting to wing as shown

Step 333: Trim wing plate to rough shape of
wing front (test fit onto pin and wing).

Step 336: Apply wing plate to wing and set
in saddle tightly to bulkhead as shown

Use masking tape
and a weight as
shown

Step 337: Insure wing TE is centered and
weight down until glue cures (about 1/2 hour)

Step 338: When glue is cured remove wing and
carefully trim plate to wing surface

poke hole for wing
pin

Step 334: Apply plastic wrap to wing front
saddle area as shown.

Step 335: Apply glue and water to wing front
as shown

Step 339: Masking tape makes a good
“scuff guard” for final sanding.

Step 340: Plate should be flush with wing
surfaces as shown.

Page 44

Step 341: Measure location of pine block
wing to wing front edge as shown

Step 346: Apply vaseline to threads of
screw and blind nut

Try to smooth out
the plastic wrap as
good as you can

Step 342: Transfer this location to wing
saddle as shown and trace block perimeter

Step 343: Cut cavity into foam to fit pine
block

Be sure W ing is
centered

Pine block is in
fuselage cavity under
the wing
(Drill through both
at the same time)

Step 344: Mount wing in saddle and drill
through wing block center with 9/64” bit

Step 347: Apply plastic wrap to top of wing
and hold it tightly with tape.

It’s a good idea to
test fit wing now

(skip ahead to step

351)

Step 348: Wrap extra plastic around wing to
bottom and tape. Poke hole for screw .

Step 349: Glue pine block into cavity with
gorilla glue and water

Be sure to keep
block orientation
during this step!

front

(block shown
upside down to
show blind nut)

Step 345: Enlar ge hole in pine block to 3/16”
and install blind nut with CA and kicker

Step 350: Apply white gorilla glue generously
to wing front saddle corners as shown

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Be sure wing is
centered and
everything fits!

Step 351: Mount wing and tighten screw
into the block underneath. W eight down

Fill and mount nose

You’ll need : nose assembly, sandpaper, sanding block,

#25 drill, 15 or 30 minute epoxy, magnets,
Goop, popsicle stick, fuselage, masking tape,
long nose pliers, CA, kicker, plastic wrap
microballoons filler, old credit card, knife,
rat tail file, nyrod, long straight edge, wing

Step 352: Gather parts and tools

Step 353: Scuf f the seam area of the nose to

give the epoxy some grip

Step 356: Spread filler to completely fill the
seam area so it can be sanded smooth later

Step 357: Apply glue/filler to wing tips also

Step 358: Drill the bulkhead holes to clear

them of any glue with #25 bit.

Step 354: It helps to scuf f quickly rather
than press hard to avoid flexing

Step 355: Mix some 30 minute epoxy and
filler and apply to seam

Careful not to sand
too far (don’t sand
bulkhead itself)

Step 359: Sand away perimeter flange to be
flush with bulkhead

Step 360: Remove any goop from round
cavities as shown with pliers and knife.

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Step 361: After epoxy has cured, sand it
smooth

Step 366: Test fit nose onto fuselage and
check for straightness with long straight edge.

Step 362: A disc sander works well when
feathering the edges to avoid nose flexure

Step 363: Drill the “nostrils” with small drill.

Step 364: Enlar ge nostrils with small rat tail

file.

Step 367: Sand nose as required to achieve
straightness when held tightly to fuselage

Be very careful
when handling the
magnets!

They break easily
when snapped
together

Step 368: Pair all magnets together with
small squares of plastic wrap between them.

Step 369: Apply Goop to the circular
cavities in the nose as shown

Step 365: Glue nyrod into top hole with CA
and kicker as shown

Step 370: Carefully place them into the nose
as shown

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Step 371: Apply Goop to the four circular
cavities as shown

Step 376: Mark and make a cavity in the
fuse side where all wires will reach.

Step 372: Mount the nose to the fuselage

Be sure nose is
straight

Check alignment
again with straight
edge

Step 373: T ape the nose tightly in place.
Let dry at least overnight in warm place.

Install RX and wiring and prepare for covering

You’ll need : fuselage, RX, knife, TX, medium CA, kicker,

40 grit sanding tools, tweezers/forceps,
Dremel drum sander, lightweight spackle,
battery

Step 374: Gather parts and tools

Step 377: Slice the fuse to route your throttle

and any BEC wires to the RX.

Step 378: Tuck the wires in place

Step 379: Gather extra wiring into a small

cavity next to the RX

Also be sure your
elevon / delta wing
program is moving
the servos in the
right direction.

You might not be
able to fix it later!

Step 375: Hook up your radio and be sure all
connections are working.

Step 380: Finished installation. Double check
radio activity with battery plugged in.

Page 48

test fit and remove
more foam as
needed

Step 381: Make clearance for wiring and
ESC into top foam slice as shown

Step 382: Spray kicker onto the inside of the top
slice as shown

Work small
sections at a time
and press in place
until glue grabs,
then glue next
forward section

Step 383: S tarting from the rear, glue the
slice back onto the fuse with medium CA

Step 386: Apply spackle to fuselage in any
area that has voids

Step 387: Trim and smooth the wing bulkhead
area for a smooth transitional contour

Step 388: Sand /fill any foam even with front
and wing bulkheads

Step 384: Trim glue away from fuse sides to
be flush with wind sides as shown

Step 385: Obtain a can of lightweight vinyl
spackle

Don’t worry about
small voids (1/8”
or less) which will
be invisible under
the Ultracote
covering

Step 389: Sand foam and filler as desired
for a good fairing

lumps of Goop can
be picked/ cut from
the intake frame
with a knife and
tweezers.

Step 390: Sand the entire fuselage with 40 grit
sanding tools to remove any bumps.

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smooth transition.

Step 396: Mask of f servo and tube holesStep 391: Sand the top also for a straight

Step 392: Also sand the edges of the balsa parts

to make smooth before painting.

Cover fuselage with Ultracote

You’ll need : fuselage, knife, tweezers/forceps, Ultracote,

small scissors, masking tape, Balsa Rite,
covering iron and thermometer, acid brush,
Dixie cup tailcone, Goop, masking tape,
paper, vacuum cleaner, 3M77

Step 393: Gather parts and tools

Step 394: V acuum the fuselage

Step 397: Mask thrust tube with paper as

shown

Spray a section at
a time and allow to
dry so you have a
place to hold for
spraying the next
section

Step 398: Spray entire fuselage with 3M77.
Spray from rear forward to avoid intake

Covering iron
should be set from
250 to 300 deg F

Step 399: Apply covering to bottom as
shown.

Step 395: Apply Balsa Rite to the intake
frame

Let covering
overlap about 1/2”
onto sides

Step 400: Iron covering and pleat as needed
to negotiate corners as shown.

Page 50

pleat as shown in rear.

Step 406: W ork the top covering as shownStep 401: Iron entire bottom smooth and

The concave parts
are most difficult.
Avoid ironing them
after doing
adjacent areas or
they will lift

Step 402: Apply a small piece to the front
bottom and iron down

A small iron set to
“high” is good for
precision work

Step 403: Heat and stretch covering around
front of intake.

Step 404: S tretch bottom covering around
and into intake and trim even with frame

Step 407: Closeup of pulling around and down
into the intake while heating

Step 408: Trim even with intake frame and
around magnets as shown

Step 409: Finish up the rear as shown

Let the heat do the
work-- small
amounts at a time

Step 405: Apply top covering and work
around intake similarly

Step 410: Scribe a line around the Dixie cup
tailcone for reference close to the bottom

Page 51

Cup should touch
thrust tube without
deforming it when
pushed to fuse rear

Use vertical fin to
help measure line
length

Step 41 1: T rim bottom as needed to fit as
shown. Scribe lines to assist trimming

Apply rings of
Goop where cup
touches fuse and
thrust tube

Step 412: Paint the cone as desired then Goop
into place as shown.

Pre Flight Assembly

You’ll need : fuselage, knife, tweezers/forceps, Ultracote,

small scissors, masking tape, masking tape,
tail parts, linkages, screwdriver, pen,
ruler, rubber bands, Gorilla Glue, water,
battery, nose, scissors, skewers/chopsticks

Step 413: Gather parts and tools.

Step 416: Mark centerline where vertical fin

goes

Step 417: Slice along line deep enough to peel
back covering, then remove foam in groove

Step 418: Trim vertical fin rudder servo
cavity to outline (if any)

Step 414: T rim thrust tube even with
tailcone when Goop has cured.

Step 415: Cut hole to reveal wing mount
screw hole

Step 419: Test fit fin into groove and trim as
needed for flush fit.

Step 420: Mark cavity for elevator linkage as
shown.

Page 52

cavity so linkage may be installed.

Do for both
elevators (mirror
images)

Step 426: Make rudder linkage if desiredS tep 421: T rim away covering to expose

W e recommend
temporary
installation for first
flight and then paint
after trim has been
achieved.

See step 437 if
gluing NOW

Step 422: Make push rod bend to keep elevator
against fuse when servo arm installed

Test fit by
installing elevator
and servo arm and
try to pull elevator
away from fuse-- it
should “snap”
back on its own

Step 423: T est fit elevator into fuse and
adjust bend as needed to retain elevators

Step 424: Elevator installation should look
like this

Step 427: Y ou may glue in rudder now OR
tape in place for first flight.

Tape allows fin to
be removed for
painting (rather
than need for
masking
surroundings if
glued)

Step 428: T ape fin to fuselage as shown.
Press cleanly into corners for strength.

Step 429: Route rubber band through hole,
and trap with skewer as shown

Step 425: Snug screws SLIGHTLY, then re­adjust / tighten with radio on for neutral setting

Step 430: Pull tightly so rubber band catches
in grooves in front of hole then remove skewer .

Page 53

link by looping
through and then
pulling “lark’s
head knot” style

and anchor last one in other side like first

Step 436: Paint and decorate as you desireS tep 431: Link 3 rubber bands together,

Amber Gorilla
glue is strongest

for fin installation-

- but it foams a
LOT , so here’s a
good way to stop it
deforming the
thrust tube

Step 432: T est fit your battery

Step 433: Install nose and adjust anything

which binds

Fly the Plane! See CG and trim settings

After flight, note if any aileron roll trim is needed, if so,
you can probably fix this by slightly twisting the wing
and ironing it with proper aileron twist BEFORE
painting your wing so as not to scuff your paint job.

Step 434: Balance plane 4-1/4” from wing
plate. See flying and trim tips section.

Step 437: From rear fuse foam “cone” mark
widest section which will fit into thrust tube

Step 438: Slice this “wedge” from the cone
as shown

Step 439: Insert wedge into tube with round
edge against fin area of tube.

Step 435: After first flight, you have the option
to remove any warp which might cause roll

Tape fin to keep it
square to fuse, and
clean any glue
which squeezes out
of joint with
acetone
periodically

Step 440: While gluing fin, stuff paper towels
into tube to force wedge against tube “top”

Page 54

CG Location and Flight Trim:

Balance plane from 4-1/4” to 4-1/2” from the LE of the wing. Shim / move the battery or add weights as needed

to balance the plane here. Fly then adjust as desired.

After your first flight trim note the position of the taileron trim. If any “roll” trim is present, there is a small twist in your
wing which was likely created during the laminating steps. Y ou have the option of re-ironing the wing while holding gentle
pressure to try to remove that twist-- or you can simply keep flying the plane with this trim setting.

Due to the low position of the tailerons on the fuselage and their short hidden linkages, it’s not uncommon for roll
control to have asymmetric tendencies. These can be corrected with linkage geometry adjustment and/or radio mixing.

If your plane rolls faster to one side or another, or the roll appears “unaxial” (ie, barrel roll) you may need to adjust
your linkage to remove any differential OR you could experiment with mixing of aileron => elevator or aileron => rudder
mixing to get the plane to roll how you wish.

Landing Flare

As with any full flying low “stabilator” design, care must be taken when landing to avoid digging the stabilator “points”
into the ground as the plane slides to a stop. Try to avoid the usual application of up elevator “flare” as the plane touches
down. With practice you’ll learn to bleed the ener gy you need on or before final approach to make predictable yet slow
slides near your intended target.

Repairs

If you should dig the stabilator tips into the ground, they may delaminate the plastic and bend down. If this happens,
you can carefully straighten them with your fingers and wick some thin CA into the creased area and then apply kicker . You
may wish to re-iron the creased area to help smooth the wrinkle, and if you do that you’ll probably need to repaint the area
to restore the original finish.

Sometimes during crashes the elevator tiller arm bushings will twist on impact. If you have stout servos (ie, HS 85mg
or stronger), you can often reposition the elevators by carefully twisting back to neutral setting with the radio turned on. A
safer approach would be to remove the covering to access the set screws as needed, loosen, reposition and retighten.

If your fan rotor needs replacement, you can access the fan by cutting a hatch in the wing saddle area leaving a
perimeter of approximately 1/2”. If you slice the area with a sharp knife at an angle-- much like cutting a “pumpkin top”
it will be easily replaced and reglued later with CA or gorilla glue used sparingly. Be careful not to cut through any

wires!

Should you need access to the ESC and/or motor wiring you will likely need to cut away the foam in these areas
which isn’t fun, but it will be possible to re-patch everything with CA, 3M77, Gorilla Glue, filler and more covering. Keep
in mind it’s easy to remove the covering with the application of heat (iron or heat gun used with care to not melt the foam),
so you can reapply the covering “skin” after the “surgery” is complete.

Have Fun!

W e welcome any feedback you may have on this or other TufFlight products.

Please feel free to contact us via our website : www .tufflight.com

take care and enjoy!

Mark & Joe

Page 55

Also look for these fr om TufFlight:

3D Flying:

The 4D:

The perfect glo fuel .46 size 3D practice plane. Learn all 3D moves low to the ground
without fear of crashing. Durable EPP wings and machined plastic fuselage, with durable
corplast full flying tail feathers. Light 4.5 lb flying weight puts it at the top of it’ s size class
compared to most other “3D” ARFs and kits..

The 4D Lite:

Electric powered “little brother” to the 4D. Fly an entire 3D airshow in
your front yard. Extremely durable and lightweight gives you the perfect
combination of “bounceability” and precision flying no other kit can match.
V3 kits offer fast self jigging assembly . 1-2 day build time on average.

R/C Combat :

The Predator:

Our first kit, and still a popular choice for sport or combat flying.
New improved V ersion 6.0 is very durable and aerobatic. Simplified
construction with all new instructions (like this manual). Removable fin for
easy storage, maintenance and transport. At 48” span and under 2.5 lbs,
it’s a fast and agile “fly at a moment’ s notice” plane.

The Panther:

State of the art in Open B and Slow Survivable (SSC) class combat.
Unbelievably maneuverable and durable. 60 inch span for great streamer
catching and turning. For 15 - 30 size glo fuel engines.

The Perfect Park Jet:

Simple to build, and fun to fly , the T ufFlight Stingray is the perfect size to take with you to any park at lunchtime

for thrills, yet durable EPP airframe lets you survive “spills.”

Super light airframe with greater than 1/1 thrust/weight ratio means

easy takeoffs, and fun flying traits.

No propeller to break or accidently hit. This is a perfect plane to get

a bunch of friends together to practice formation or night flying.

Thin and efficient wing for excellent energy retention. Very easy to

land with power off and amazing glide ratio for a plane this light. Excel-
lent inverted flying traits-- a great plane to learn rolling close to the
ground.

Quick 3 hour build time with 4 large CNC cut foam parts to glue.
EPP skin hinged elevons and radio installation templates make your radio
setup a breeze.

See our amazing crash test and aerobatic videos online

www.tufflight.com

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