TufFlight Manta Instruction Manual

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5376 Amalfi Drive, Clay, NY 13041 ww w.tufflight.com
The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!
Wingspan: 34" Flying Weight: 9-10 oz Fan Thrust: 10.2 oz Motor/ Fan: Himax EPF50BL RTR
brushless outrunner fan unit
ESC: included Radio: 3+ channels, elevon capability Servos: 2 Hitec HS 55 or equivalent
Hello, and thanks for buying the Manta-- an exciting park jet offering the perfect combination of convenience,
easy flying, durability , and thrills for the beginning to intermediate R/C flyer .
Caution: The Manta is a fast and agile flyer, and requires care in setup and operation. Please obey safety
rules for your motor and battery. Lithium polymer (lipo) batteries are ideal for this plane.
Charge lipo batteries ONLY with a lithium capable charger according to battery instructions.
The CG location is 3/4” ahead of the spar with the battery installed.
Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and
following the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.
We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!
Items Included in kit:
Foam Parts:
(1) “right” EPP wing core (1) “left” EPP wing core (1) 5/16” x 11” x 16” EPP tail fin sheet (1) EPP fuselage/ wing center
(1) Himax EPF50BL R TR fan unit (1) 15A ESC w/connectors
Hardware:
(2) Dubro mini EZ connectors (1) 0.039” x 8” wire (2) Velcro fastener strips white packing tape
(stuck to motor/ESC package)
Misc:
(1) carbon spar tube (1) 0.015” plastic parts sheet (thin) (1) 0.038” plastic parts sheet (thick)
Rev 1.2
This Instruction Manual
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Items needed to complete:
Equipment:
3 cell (3S) 800 - 1500 mAH Lithium polymer
battery capable of 13 A continuous draw 2 servos: Hitec HS 55 or equivalent Transmitter (TX) capable of elevon mixing 3+ channel micro receiver (RX) battery connector
Adhesives:
Quick Grip (available at
W almart in craft section) Masking tape 3/4” roll of fiberglass
reinforced packing tape
Helpful T ools:
40 grit sandpaper on block
(available at auto
finishing stores and Sears) hobby knife / utility knife scrap of sheet rock as a “cutting board” soldering iron, solder shrink tube insulation soldering “jig” (ie, extra pair of hands) heat gun “hemostat type” pliers Phillips head screwdriver straight screwdriver standard pliers small clamp wire cutters Dremel T ool w/ drum sander felt tip pen ruler/straight edge masking tape scissors flat building table, at least 3 ft long your choice of lightweight finish:
magic markers, or lightweight paint airbrush (recommended)
Notes on Lithium Polymer (LiPo) Battery Use:
Firstly, charge Lipos using ONL Y lithium com-
patible chargers according to the manufacturer’s specs.
Secondly: Do NOT drain the batteries to the
point where the plane will no longer fly . Lithium bat-
teries WILL be damaged if they are drained too much.
Notes on Conventions:
References to “Left”, “Right”, “Front” and “Rear” are assumed to be from a “pilot’ s” point of view as though (s)he were sitting in the cockpit. Please keep this in mind when viewing pictures in the construction steps. The “Leading Edge” of a part is the “front” edge, and is often abbreviated as “LE”. The “T railing Edge” is the “rear” edge and usually abbreviated “TE”. The “Fuselage” is the “body” of the plane and is often called “Fuse” (rhymes with “loose”) for shorthand. These are common terms in R/C modeling. “T op” or “Bottom” are as you would ex­pect, with the plane sitting or flying upright. A “root” edge of something is near the fuselage and is usually big­ger than the “tip” which is furthest away. The total length of a wing is the “span.” A wing usually has a “spar” at the thickest part running the entire span of the wing.
Notes on Servo setup, control sensitivity and finishing (paint):
W e supply Hitec HS 55 servos in our deluxe kits, and these instructions show their installation and use. The supplied control horn dimensions assume the builder will use the outermost holes in the Hitec servo arms to give exciting aerobatic roll-- about 45 degrees of deflection. This is how we set up our personal planes and what we use for the aerobatics featured in our videos.
If you desire a more docile plane, move the ez connector one hole closer to the servo screw . Do NOT limit the throw using the radio! It’ s always best to do this mechanically . For easier control, you may need to program your elevons so ELEV ATOR percentage travel is less than AILERON percentage. (It is common for the default elevon transmitter programs to give a 50/50 mix contribution for aileron + elevator input).
For aerobatic flying wings it is usually desired to have much less elevator travel than aileron. Elevator travel may be as low as 30 to 40% depending on your plane’s weight and CG . The lighter the plane, the tighter it will turn. If you have too much elevator throw , your plane could “snap roll” out of a turn our loop if it’ s heavy. Y our Manta has great turning traits, and will likely not exhibit this issue if built according to our directions and not made too heavy .
Keep your paint job light! Beware of spray paint in cans because it’s easy to make your plane too
heavy when the paint soaks into the foam. Use only light misting in key areas and avoid coloring the entire plane if using spray paint in cans. An airbrush gives superior
lightweight paint coverage over cans or brushing.
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Cut out pieces using paper templates
You’ll need : centerfold template pages
0.039” wire, drill, prick punch hobby knife, masking tape both plastic sheet pieces (thick, thin) EPP foam sheet, wire cutters, metal file long nose pliers
Step 1: Gather parts and tools
Step 2: Remove centerfold template sheets from
this manual
The paper shows through the plastic
use a prick punch to make dimples where holes will be drilled in the next step
Step 6: T ape thick plastic sheet over control horn template and mark hole loca­tions
Step 7: Make a “drill bit” from 0.039” wire. File a point on one end and cut to 3/4” long
careful not to drill into your table!
Step 3: T ape the thin plastic sheet over the battery cover template as shown
you don’t need to cut all the way through, just press hard enough to leave a groove
Step 4: Score the plastic with a hobby knife on the outline of the battery cover as shown.
Cut the sub fin cover plate also
Set these aside for later
(use a scrap piece of wood underneath)
Step 8: Drill the two holes with your home­made 0.039” drill bit
Step 9: Now score the horn outlines with a hobby knife like you did the other pieces.
mark parts with masking tape or erasable marker if you think you might lose them
Step 5: Bend and snap the part free by flexing the plastic on the scored outline.
Step 10: Snap out the control horns. Use pliers to get a better grip on the thick plastic
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Separate the foam sheet from between the wing parts if necessary
A piece of scrap drywall makes a good cutting board underneath.
Step 1 1: T ape paper template to foam sheet and cut out fin with a sharp hobby knife.
Configure motor and radio electronics
You’ll need : Quick Grip, tweezers
hobby knife, masking tape, screwdriver pliers, solder, soldering iron, heat gun solder jig, shrink tube, wire cutters fan unit, ESC, servos, RX, TX, servos battery connector, battery
Step 12: Gather parts and tools
You can either “peel” it away as shown, or break it off in small pieces.
Don’t worry about being to neat here
Step 13: Remove the plastic flange around the motor with pliers as shown
Step 16: Use the full size template on page 12 to cut the ESC battery leads where shown
Depending on your selected battery size, you may have a different connector. “JST” is shown
Step 17: Cut the battery connector as shown. Strip 3/16” insulation off wire ends.
Step 18: Cut five sections of heat shrink tubing about 3/8” long each
Step 14: Apply the fan ring to the front as shown
Step 15: Glue the ring to the fan with Quick Grip as shown
Step 19: Slip heat shrink tubes over the battery connector
take your time and do a good job
Blow torches need not apply!
Step 20: Solder the wires
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Step 21: Slide the heat shrink tubing to cover the solder joint and shrink with a heat gun
Step 26: Install servo arms so they are 90 degrees as shown with trims centered
Prepare Wing and Fuselage Foam parts
Carefully test your motor, then return your throttle stick to the OFF position
Step 22: Hook up all your radio parts then test fan operation and thrust direction.
Consult ESC directions and adjust small switches so your fan spins smoothly from low to high throttle.
W e find the 11.1 V setting sometimes is not reliable, so select a lower setting to get good operation.
Step 23: Adjust ESC low voltage cutof f if needed so fan spins reliably .
You’ll need : Quick Grip
hobby knife, masking tape, CA kicker 40 grit sandpaper on block
Step 27: Gather parts and tools
Step 28: Separate the foam fuselage pieces
as shown
Step 24: Center your radio trims, and activate your elevon mixing feature.
Step 25: Clip of f one end of the servo arms as shown
Step 29: Remove the center foam cylinder and save it for later
Peel away spider webs from inside surfaces too if you can reach them.
Step 30: Carefully peel away spider webs.
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Step 31: Use cylinder to “sand” wing surfaces to help remove spider webs.
Step 36: Smear the glue with your finger into the hinge line as shown.
Repeat for other wing top hinge surface
Step 32: Repeat for all wing surfaces.
place the wing on a flat cutting surface
A scrap piece of drywall makes a good cutting board
Step 33: Place a metal straight edge along the wing TE to expose 1/8” of the elevon edge
a sharp hobby knife works best.
W atch your fingers!
This makes a nice clean straight TE
Step 34: Trim 1/8” from the elevon rear TE as shown and discard.
Step 37: Bend the elevon down slightly and tape in place while glue dries.
this step makes the hinge more free
Sand the BOTTOMS ONLY (opposite of glued sides)
Step 38: Flex the elevons and LIGHTLY sand the hinge line as shown
Make Wing cavities for component installation
You’ll need : centerfold template sheet,
hobby knife, masking tape, radio components pencil, scissors, pliers, Dremel tool w/ small drum sander
Step 39: Gather parts and tools
Step 35: Apply a bead of Quick Grip to the
hinge line as shown
Quickly proceed to the next step
Step 40: Cut the left wing template along the root edge line where shown
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tape template onto wing bottom (with the spar slot) using masking tape
If you have a Dremel tool with a small drum sander skip to next step
IF you accidentally pull out foam through to the top surface, just glue it back in place
Step 41: Align the template over the left wing bottom so the spar and root edges match
put the wing on a cutting board for this step
(slice all the way through the foam holding a sharp hobby knife vertically)
Step 42: Slice through the template control horn location where shown
Don’t slice all the way through the foam!
Use your servo for a depth gauge and make the slice the same depth
Step 43: Slice into the servo outline where shown to the depth of the servo
Step 46: Remove foam from the receiver cavity area. CAREFULL Y pull out with pliers
firmly hold the drum sander to the right depth and slowly proceed NEAR the edges. When you get close to the edge, the foam will “snap” clean by virtue of the knife slits
Step 47: The Dremel tool method is superior for making clean and precise cavities
Step 48: Make servo cavity similarly . T est fit so the servos lie flush with wing bottom also.
Make the slice slightly deeper than your receiver (about 1/8 to 1/4” deeper)
Step 44: Slice the outline for the receiver cavity . Use your receiver for a depth gauge.
Make the pencil marks dark enough so you can see the outlines when you remove the template
Step 45: Trace in all the slices with a pencil so you don’t lose track of them.
Step 49: Apply the right wing template and perform these steps similarly for this wing.
Install Fan and Servos
You’ll need : assembled fan and ESC
foam fuselage and wings Quick Grip, hobby knife
Step 50: Gather parts and tools
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Step 51: Route the motor wires in a line directly behind one of the stators as shown
Step 56: T ape the fuselage to clamp it while the glue dries as shown
Do for other wing also
Step 52: Apply glue to the center seam as shown
Step 53: Apply a line of glue around the body of the fan unit as shown
Step 54: Insert fan into fuselage with wires pointing as shown
Step 57: Glue servos into wing cavities as shown
Just do the left wing for now (with the RX cavity)
Step 58: Slice a shallow groove to route the wires from the servo to the RX cavity .
Assemble wing to fuselage
You’ll need : foam fuselage, foam wings,
carbon spar, masking tape, sandpaper on block, Quick Grip
Step 59: Gather parts and tools
Step 55: Squeeze the fuselage together as
shown
Step 60: deburr both ends of the carbon spar with a sanding block
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Step 61: Insert the spar into the fuselage hole where shown
Step 66: Be sure the surfaces are flush as shown
Step 62: Center the spar as shown in this and following steps
Step 63: Align the wing surfaces even with the fuselage as shown
Step 64: Examine the spar ends and sand them flush if they protrude slightly
Step 67: Use masking tape to tightly hold the joint together
Step 68: Carefully slide out the spar and apply glue into the groove as shown.
Step 69: Apply glue to other wing also
Step 65: Separate and apply Quick Grip into
the joint as shown
don’t glue the spar yet
Repeat for both wing/ fuse joints
Wipe away any glue which squirts out of the spar joint
Step 70: Reinsert the spar twirling it as you go to help evenly distribute the glue
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Install ESC components
You’ll need : assembled wing and fuselage
ESC assembly, small plastic clamp Quick Grip, hobby knife, battery, Dremel Tool with drum sander hemostat pliers, masking tape, transmitter, marker
cut a smooth path from the servo to the receiver cavity just deep enough to hide the wire
Step 71: Gather parts and tools Step 76: With a sharp knife, carefully route the
right wing servo wire as shown.
test motor direction
(Consult Step 22)
Step 72: Correctly connect wires and bend back . Trace around connectors as shown.
Step 73: Using a Dremel tool, create a cavity so the connectors will “lie flat.”
Step 74: Apply glue to the ESC
Step 77: Also slice a path from the ESC to the
receiver for the throttle connection as shown.
Note connector faces forward
Step 78: Apply Quick Grip to the Battery connector and clamp to fuse where shown.
Step 79: Completed fuselage bottom.
Step 75: T ape ESC to fuse where shown
while glue dries.
Configure Controls and Install Receiver
You’ll need : assembled wing and fuselage
Quick Grip, push rod template, pliers control horns, ez connectors, sandpaper, push rod wire, screwdrivers,wire cutters radio receiver, transmitter, battery, hobby knife, white packing tape
Step 80: Gather parts and tools
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Bottom Surface
also see next step for proper location
(this IS critical for a good flying plane, so take your time here)
Turn on your radio and operate servo for the full range to test
Step 81: T est fit the plastic control horn into the elevon slot. Enlarge slot as needed.
Control horn bottom edge should be flush with elevon top surface
Step 82: Place it so the hole is even with the hingeline when the wing is flat on the table
Step 83: Apply Quick Grip to the control horn and glue in place.
Step 86: Make clearance in the foam as needed for full servo travel
Step 87: Deburr ends of the 0.039” wire with sandpaper
Step 88: Make push rods with Z bends using full size template on page 12 as shown
Use the outermost holes in the servo arm now .
If you want more docile controls, you choose an inner hole later on.
Step 84: Install the mini ez connectors into the servo arms as shown
*Note, these picture shows our Stingray which is a bottom wing plane with servo arms protruding through top surface.
Your Manta servo installation will look slightly different, but this process is the same.
Step 85: Install screw into connector as shown Step 90: Insert Z bend into control horn as
Step 89: Cut push rod to length and repeat for other
shown
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Step 91: Insert other end into ez connector as shown
Note a long 72 MHz receiver antenna wire is shown
If using 2.4 GHz, your slits may be very short and near the receiver cavity
Step 96: Install the RX antenna wire into the slit with a phillips head screwdriver
Smear it over the foam so it coats it over a 2” wide section and longer than the cavity
This helps the tape stick in the next steps
Step 92: Make all receiver connections if not already done.
Step 93: Turn on radio and center trims. Tighten screw when elevon is “flat”
Up elevator (down stick) makes both servo arms push the elevons up
Right aileron
(right stick) makes right servo push, and left servo pull
Step 94: T est your radio elevon program to ensure servos move correctly . Reprogram or switch wires if needed.
Step 97: Tuck wires neatly into RX cavity and apply Quick Grip to the perimeter as shown
Step 98: Remove the white packing tape from the motor/ESC package
Step 99: Apply tape over receiver cavity as shown.
Make a long continuous slice just long enough for the length of your RX antenna wire in the wing bottom (opposite RX and ESC) Try to route it away from the spar and all other wires, and keep about 2” forward of the elevon hinge line at the control horn location
Step 95: Make a shallow slit to hide the RX antenna on the wing bottom surface
Step 100: Trim excess tape with knife.
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Install Fin
You’ll need : assembled wing and fuselage
Quick Grip, foam fin, velcro strip, hobby knife, ruler, small clamp, scissors, hemostat pliers
Step 101: Gather parts and tools
Step 102: Mark and cut two (2) 1-1/2” and
two (2) 3/4” pieces from velcro strap
Step 103: Mark the fin groove 2” from the rear as shown
Step 106: Apply glue to the exposed portion of the longer piece as shown.
Step 107: Apply glue in one of the slots
Hemostat pliers work well for this
Wipe away any glue which squirts out of the slot
Allow glue to dry before proceeding
Step 108: Shove the glued area into the slot with the smaller pad facing inward as shown.
Step 104: Slice the foam to receive the velcro strap on each edge of the groove
Step 105: Place a short and long piece of velcro together as shown (stick together)
Step 109: Apply glue to the inner pad as shown.
Step 1 10: Insert fin into slot and glue pad to fin as shown
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Step 1 1 1: Clamp in pace while glue dries. Repeat steps for velcro on other side.
Fin shown flipped around illustrating easier storage and transport
Step 1 16: Glue one end of a velcro strip down into one slit.
Step 1 12: Fin is now removable after glue dries. (Note “sub fin” not shown in above pic)
Install Battery Holder
You’ll need : assembled wing and fuselage
Quick Grip, velcro strip, marker, velcro pads, battery cover, block or table edge with sharp corners
Step 101: Gather parts and tools
Step 1 14: Mark the fuselage bottom at the
center of your battery as shown
Step 1 17: Cut excess strap which extends beyond battery as shown.
Step 1 18: Glue remaining velcro strap into other slit and trim similarly .
Step 1 19: Place battery cover with curved recess to fan and mark corner as shown
Step 1 15: Make deep slits on each side of your battery as shown with knife.
Step 120: Crease the cover on marks using a sharp edge. Bend it to a right angle.
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Step 121: Repeat second crease to fit fuselage as shown.
Step 122: Lay cover in place, mark and trim as needed to be even with fuselage sides.
Step 126: Completed fuselage bottom
Final Assembly
You’ll need : assembled wing and fuselage,
40 grit sanding dowel, ruler, marker, sub fin cover plate
Optional: Quick Grip,
3/4” wide fiberglass packing tape, airbrush, paint
Step 127: Gather parts and tools
Step 123: Apply cover to front corners as
shown
Step 124: T ape Cover in place while glue dries
Step 125: Cover flips up for battery access.
Step 128: Sand the fuselage wing transition
to give a pleasing blended contour
Optional Step:
This gives more durable leading edge and allows better adhesion with reinforcement tape in following steps
Step 129: Smear some Quick grip onto the entire leading edge of the plane.
Optional Step:
This gives more durable leading edge
Step 130: Apply fiberglass packing tape to the ENTIRE wing leading edge
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Optional Step:
This gives more durable leading edge
Step 131: Continue to neatly wrap the tape across the ENTIRE leading edge
Optional Step:
This gives more durable leading edge
Try not to cut ALL the fibers to preserve strength
Step 132: Cut the tape where it lies over the inside of the fan lip.
Optional Step:
This gives more durable leading edge
Try not to cut ALL the fibers to preserve strength
Step 133: Cut/pleat the tape at the wing/fuse junction so it will lay flat.
Step 136: Glue the sub fin cover plate to the fin as shown
mark both sides
Step 137: Mark locations 3/4” ahead of the spar on wing bottoms as shown
plane sits level with fingers on the marks as shown
Step 138: Move battery as needed to balance after painting with all parts assembled.
Step 134: Optional: If used, smooth the tape to the contour of the leading edge.
5/8”
This is a good starting point to fly .
Step 135: Program your elevator travel so it moves only 5/8” up and 5/8” down from neutral
Flight Trim:
A good test for an aerobatic CG position is to fly the plane upright and trim the elevator for level flight. Then fly inverted and see how much down elevator control is needed to maintain level flight. If the plane flies level in­verted with very little down elevator , the CG is good. The farther back your CG moves the more “twitchy” your elevator will become. Conversely , the farther forward your CG moves, the more elevator travel you will need to main­tain the same turning radius. Adjust to your tastes by
sliding the battery fore or aft.
Have Fun!
Remember, weight is the enemy , so keep decora­tions and repairs light!
W e welcome any feedback you may have on this or other TufFlight products.
Please feel free to contact us via our website :
www .tufflight.com
take care and enjoy!
Mark & Joe
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