5376 Amalfi Drive, Clay, NY 13041 www.tufflight.com
The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!
BIG Bouncer
Wingspan: 55"
Length: 58"
Wing Area: 831 sq in
Flying Weight: 4.5 lbs
Motor: ~800 W
Radio: 4 channels
Servos: 4 HS 65 or equivalent aileron
2 HS 85 or equivalent elevator
1 HS 225 or equivalent rudder
Excellent 3D capability -plus- Outstanding Durability
Hello, and thanks for buying the Big Bouncer! Whether you’ve just entered the exciting world of radio control and
3D flying, or you’re a seasoned veteran, the Bouncer is the perfect combination of agility, durability, versatility and value
for the schoolyard, park or front yard 3D flyer.
Caution: The Bouncer can be a very agile performer, and requires care in setup and operation. Please obey
manufacturer’s safety rules for your motor, propeller and battery. Lithium polymer (lipo) batteries are ideal for
this plane. Charge lipo batteries ONLY with a lithium capable charger according to battery instructions.
The CG location is 6-3/4” from the wing leading edge at the root.
While you may be tempted to fly close to yourself, please practice in a safe manner.
Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and
following the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.
We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!
Items Included in kit:
Foam Parts:
(1) right/left EPP wing cores in shucks
(2) EPP tail feathers sheets in shucks with wings
(1) EPP front fuselage piece
(1) EPP rear fuselage piece
Misc:
(2) 0.038” control horn clear plastic sheet
(1) 0.005” 1” x 8” clear mylar rudder hinge
(1) 0.003” 3” clear mylar hinge material
(1) 1/32” x 1/2” G10 strip
(1) 1/32” x 12” G10 sheet
(1) 1/16” G10 sheet
(1) 3/8” white plastic motor mount sheet
(2) 1/16” x 3/4” fiberglass LG struts
(6) 1/16” x 72” fiberglass rod
(1) 0.188” x 18.5" carbon tube
(2) 1/4” x 3.75” fiberglass rod
(2) 1/8” x 1-3/8” fiberglass rod
Rev 1.0
Hardware:
(4) Dubro mini EZ connectors
(3) Dubro 2-56 x 12” threaded rod
(3) Dubro 2-56 nylon clevis
(2) main wheels
(1) tailwheel
(8) 4-40 x 5/16” nylon bolts
(2) 6-32 x 3/8” nylon bolts
(2) 6-32 x 1-1/4” steel bolts
(6) 6-32 nuts
(1) 0.039” x 18” wire
(1) 1/16” x 7” wire
(2) zip ties
(8) O-rings #017
(2) Velcro strap
(4) #64 rubber bands
Template / Plans Packet
This Instruction Manual
Page 1
Items needed to complete:
Equipment:
~800 W motor
4 channel radio receiver
80A electronic speed control (ESC)
3300 mAH 4S Lipo battery
7 servos: 4 HS 65 or equivalent aileron
2 HS 85 or equivalent elevator
1 HS 225 or equivalent rudder
Parts:
15 x 6 prop (depending on power setup)
servo wire extensions
connectors for ESC and battery
solder (if needed for connectors)
shrink tube (if needed for solder joints)
Adhesives:
Gorilla Glue (clear, dries white), small bottle
--and/or-Quick Grip adhesive
(available at Walmart and Michaels crafts)
thin CA (regular, NOT foam safe)
CA accelerator (kicker)
masking tape
3M77 Spray adhesive
Helpful Tools:
40 grit sandpaper on block
(found at auto finishing stores and Sears)
hobby knife / utility knife
new single edge razor blade
scrap of sheet rock as a “cutting board”
soldering iron
Phillips head screwdriver
straight screwdrivers
long nose pliers
wire cutters
Drill with #38, 9/64”, 1/8”, 1/16”,
1/4”, 3/16”, 1/2”, #61 bits
Dremel Tool w/ drum sander and cutoff wheel
razor saw
felt tip pen
ruler/straight edge
metal file
scissors, heavy duty and tin snips
clamps
scrap wood
plastic wrap
flat building table, at least 5 ft long
lightweight decorations: airbrush (recommended)
Flight Trim:
The recommended center of gravity (CG) point is
6-3/4” from the LE at the wing root with the battery installed. Adjust by positioning the battery by moving the
G10 plate and velcro strap on the fuselage for the new
battery position.
A good test for an aerobatic CG position is to fly the
plane upright and trim the elevator for level flight. Then
fly inverted and see if any down elevator control is needed
to maintain level flight. If the plane also flys level inverted with very little down elevator, the CG is good
for 3D. The farther back your CG moves, the more
“twitchy” your elevator will get. For 3D It helps to have
40 to 50 degrees deflection on all surfaces and a rearward CG. 30 to 50% expo may also be helpful on all
surfaces (Especially elevator). Adjust to your taste.
You may wish to check and adjust lateral balance.
It should be very close to neutral if built as shown.
For hints on flying 3D maneuvers, consult our web
site: http://www.tufflight.com/3d_faq.html
Notes on Crashing and Repairs:
You should be able to fix foam damage with Quick
Grip for fast field repairs. Apply Quick Grip to one surface, join parts temporarily, pull apart to let dry for about
30 seconds (you should see “spider webs”) and then put
them back together. In a few minutes the joint will be
flight ready. Large damaged areas will benefit from Gorilla glue as it foams to fill voids.
Have Fun!
Remember, weight is the enemy, so keep repairs
light! If there's one thing we've learned, it's amazing how
much cosmetic damage can be "ignored" when a friend
shows up to fly.
We want you to have fun exploring the limits, but
please do so safely.
We welcome any feedback you may have on this or
other TufFlight products.
Please feel free to contact us:
take care and enjoy!
Mark & Joe
Page 2
Assemble Wings
You’ll need : Foam wing pieces, mylar hinge sheet,
medium and thin CA, kicker,
hobby knife, scissors, razor blade, ruler,
cutting board, scrap wood,
scrap EPP / 40 grit sanding block
Step 1: Gather parts and tools. Step 6: Ailerons should be identical
DON”T
DISCARD the
sheets in the
bottom part of
the shucks!
(you need them
for the tail parts)
Step 2: Carefully separate the wing parts from
the shucks as shown.
A scrap piece of
EPP may also be
used to “sand” off
the spider webs
Step 3: Sand and peel any “spider webs”
away from the foam.
Step 4: With a new sharp hobby knife, slice
one ailerons free on the line as shown.
Step 7: Label “best looking surfaces” for
top vs bottom
The beveled
(pointed) edges
face each other
Step 8: Align aileron to wing as shown
Step 9: Trim Aileron to match wing tip angle
with sharp hobby knife as shown
Step 5: Repeat for the other aileron as shown
Step 10: Make slicing tool from scrap wood
and razor blade exactly 0.470” thick
Page 3
A weight or ruler
helps to keep the
hinge/foam joint
together
Step 11: Glue razor blade to scrap wood as
shown
Work
carefully
and press
all parts to
the bench
when
slicing
Step 12: Slice the aileron LE and wing TE with
tool as shown. Keep all top surfaces down.
mylar is
0.003”
thick and
comes
rolled in
“the
baggie”
Step 13: Cut two 3/4” strips of mylar for
hinges
Step 16: Apply kicker to hinge.
Step 17: Trim hinge at angle as shown to aid
insertion during next step
Step 18: Slide wing onto hinged aileron as
shown.
Tape a
credit card
to the
mylar strip
to help
feed it into
the slit
Step 14: Slide mylar hinge into aileron as
shown
Step 19: Flex the aileron to set the hinge gap
needed to provide adequate clearance.
The hinge
gap should
be as small
as possible
while still
allowing full
deflection as
shown
After this
step, trim
hinge
material
even
with
root/tip
edges
Step 15: Apply thin CA to hinge on both sides Step 20: Once hinge gap ready, apply thin
CA and kicker while clamping with ruler
Page 4
Assemble Fuselage
You’ll need : Foam fuselage pieces, ruler,
white gorilla glue or quick grip glue,
scrap EPP / 40 grit sanding block,
sharp knife, 1/16” fiberglass rods, ruler
dremel tool /cutoff wheel, 2 large blocks
Step 21: Gather parts and tools.
Cut the 48” pieces
first!
You’ll use the 24”
pieces now. Save
the other ones for
the wing later
Step 22: Cut the fiberglass rods to produce
four (4) 48” and eight (8) 24” pieces
There are 8 line
marks for you to
slice
Use your finger as
a depth guide
Step 23: Make a slice roughly 1/8” deep with
sharp knife along line marks as shown.
Step 26: Lay fiberglass rod into groove and
press down so it’s flush with surface.
Repeat for
both sides (all
8 lines)
Insure fuselage
is straight
while glue
cures.
Step 27: Work rod into slot. Rod will stay in
place once glue starts to set.
Join Wings to Fuselage
You’ll need : Assembled Foam fuselage and wings,
white gorilla glue or quick grip glue,
hobby knife, (2) 1/16” fiberglass rods,
tall blocks/supports, weights, ruler,
plastic wrap, medium CA, kicker
old credit card
Step 28: Gather parts and tools.
Step 24: (continuation) Slice from front to
rear as shown.
Step 25: Apply white Gorilla Glue or Quick
Grip into slot as shown.
Work glue into
the entire slot
from nose to tail.
Step 29: Mark fuselage 5-3/4” from edge as
shown (both sides)
This will be the
wing front LE
location
Step 30: Mark center of fuselage as shown
across previous mark.
Page 5
Do for both top
and bottom wing
surfaces (on both
sides of fuselage
also)
Step 31: With wing LE in position, transfer
wing spar locations to fuselage as shown
Step 32: Mark the rear of the wing location
on fuselage as shown
Step 33: Measure and mark the center
location for the wing rear position
Step 36: Poke and slice carefully through to
the other side as shown
You’ll use these
guides later for
alignment of wing
and tail parts to
fuselage
Step 37: Mark centerline of fuselage as
shown for front and back pieces
Step 38: Sand the rods even with the
fuselage edge as shown
Step 34: Connect the spar location marks as
shown
An awl or long
wire will help
determine the
edges where spar
rods will reside
Step 35: Slice all the way through fuselage
at the marks as shown.
Install
all 4
spars
Step 39: Thread the 48” x 1/16” fiberglass
rods half way through the slices as shown.
Make 8 spanwise
slices-- two on
each wing surface
Step 40: Find spanwise index marks on
wings and slice 1/8” deep along these lines
Page 6
The styrofoam
packaging from
your radio
transmitter may
work well
(At least 6” tall)
Step 41: Obtain two identical large blocks
to use as supports during next steps
Step 42: Insert wings between spars guiding
them into the slices to locate the wings.
use medium CA
and kicker
Step 43: When satisfied with wing position,
tack glue wing front to fuselage where shown.
Step 46: Work Spars into slots being careful
to center them along the span (other half too)
Repeat for
all wing
spars
Step 47: Wipe away any glue which squirts out
with acetone and paper towel.
We use
two
identical
radio
boxes
Step 48: Lay onto blocks upside down as
shown. Blocks should be taller than canopy.
This quickly locks
wing into position
for next steps
Use center marks
on fuse for correct
alignment
Step 44: Tack glue rear of wing similarly.
Work quickly for
this and the
following steps-one wing at a time
Step 45: Apply white gorilla glue or quick
grip into wing slots
Step 49: Apply white gorilla glue or quick
grip into center wing/fuse joint as shown.
Step 50: Repeat for bottom side joints as
shown.
Page 7
Take care to
insure fuse is
perpendicular to
wing and things
look square and
symmetrical
Step 51: Apply weights while glue cures as
shown.
Make Motor Mount
You’ll need : scissors, white motor mount plastic
paper templates, 3M77, drill,
motor
Step 52: Gather parts and tools.
Step 53out “H” motor mount from paper
template as shown.
Step 56: Drill central 1/2” hole where
indicated.
Step 57: Drill 1/4” holes where indicated at
“H” corners
A band or scroll
saw may also be
used if available
Step 58: Saw to remove “H” insides as
shown.
Step 54: Apply template to white plastic
sheet.
Step 55: Drill 1/8” holes where shown.
Step 59: Saw to remove “H” insides as shown.
A band or scroll saw may also be used.
*Note, cutouts are
NOT identical
Top cutout is
smaller than
bottom -- label Top
/ bottom to avoid
confusion later
Step 60: Round edges with knife or disc
sander as shown
Page 8
Step 61: Deburr corners of holes
Note wires route
on left side of
fuselage
Step 66: Cut two elevators using the same
template.
Step 62: Test fit motor to “H” mount and
adjust holes if needed.
Make and Join Tail Parts
You’ll need : Foam sheets, new sharp hobby knife,
paper templates, 3M77, carbon strip,
white gorilla glue or quick grip, ruler,
cutting board, mylar hinge material,
clamps, rear fuselage,
strong scissors/tin snips
Step 63: Gather parts and tools.
Step 64: Remove any spider webs from
foam sheets. Cut out and apply templates
Step 67:Glue the horizontal stab halves together as shown.
You can re-use the
aileron hinge
slicer if you sand it
thinner to center it
to the tail parts
Step 68: Modify your hinge slot slicer for
slicing the tail feathers
a pencil helps you
see where the line
(adjust your slicng
jig as needed)
Step 69: Practice on some scrap foam and
verify the slice is in the center
Step 65: Cut tail parts from foam sheets
with sharp knife
Step 70: Make slices for mylar hinges as
indicated.
Page 9
Step 71: Slice the rear fuselage for the
hinge also
Step 76: Glue the spar into the horizontal
stab as shown
Step 72: Bevel the rudder, stab and elevator
to allow desired deflection
Step 73: Mark a line 3/4” from stab rear
centered 18” long as shown
Step 74: Slice on the line as shown.
Step 77: Tape the joint to clamp it while the
glue dries.
a covering iron
helps to loosen
tape if it tends to
pull foam chunks
from the corners
Step 78: Carefully remove the tape when
glue is dry.
Be sure to flex the
hinge for your
desired travel
(50 degrees each
way is good for
3D)
Step 79: Hinge elevators onto stab glue with
mylar and CA / kicker like the ailerons
Step 75: Cut and taper 1/32” x 1/2” G10
spar to fit in the slot as shown.
taper
each end
to a
point as
shown
(not
critical)
Step 80: Locate and remove plastic from
the control horn clear plastic
Page 10
position elevator
horns 1.5” from
center as shown
Step 81: Cut out the control horn templates
3M77 is easily
removed with
mineral spirits
Step 82: Apply templates to plastic with
3M77
Step 83: Drill holes in control horns where
shown
Step 86: Select the “bottom” surface and
measure location for elevator horns
Step 87: Slice the foam as shown for the
horns (cut all the way to the top surface)
Note bevel and
clearance notches
should align with
foam bevel
Step 88: Glue horns in place as shown.
Horns should be flush with top surface.
Step 84: Cut out control horns
Step 85: You can score the clearance areas
with a knife and snap out with pliers
heavy duty
shears or tin
snips work
well for this
Step 89: Insert, center and align the stab to
the fuse edge as shown to insure symmetry
Step 90: Mark position when satisfied
Page 11
Make and Apply Fuse Reinforcements
You’ll need : scissors, thick and thin G10 material
paper templates, 3M77, scrap wood
white gorilla glue or quick grip, tin snips
front fuse/wing assembly, plastic wrap,
clamps, sanding block, nylon screws,
1/4” fiberglass rods, CA and kicker
Step 91: Place fuse vertical on table and
support tail so it’s level
Check and adjust
stab to make sure it
is level with the
wing.
Clamp or shim as
needed
Step 92: Apply white gorilla glue or quick
grip and glue stab into fuse
Step 93: Slide 1” mylar hinge into rudder.
Step 96: Gather parts and tools.
Step 97: Cut template for G10 parts as
shown.
Step 98: Apply template to G10 with 3M77
as shown.
Be sure to flex the
hinge for your
desired travel
(50 degrees each
way is good for
3D)
Step 94: Align rudder and test clearance and
throw.
Step 95: Glue Rudder to fin / fuselage with
thin CA and kicker
Step 99: Drill holes as indicated.
Aviation
shears or tin
snips work
well
Step 100: Cut out parts with strong scissors.
Page 12
Step 101: Cut out fuse motor mount/dowel
holes paper template as shown.
Step 106: Repeat for bottom rod
Step 102: Align template to nose and mark
hole locations as shown with pen.
Step 103: Slice through nose to make holes
for rods
Step 104: Gather wood scraps for clamping
support in next steps
Step 107: Glue G10 reinforcements to other
side as shown.
The Motor mount “H” plate
will attach behind these rods.
Be careful NOT to give UP or
DOWN thrust, only right
thrust
Step 108: Align rods so they give approximately 2 degrees of “right thrust” as shown
Step 109: When satisfied with all angles,
clamp in place while glue cures.
Use plenty of glue
for G10 to foam
joint
Step 105: Glue rod to G10 to fuselage as
shown with white gorilla glue or quick grip
Step 110: Cut and shape thin G10 fuselage
joiners and reinforcements
Page 13
See template
drawings for
guidance
Use plenty of glue
for this step
Step 111: Apply glue to joiner doublers/
spacers as shown
See template
drawings for
guidance
Step 112: Glue joiner doubler/spacers
together as shown
Step 113: Drill/tap holes or force screws into
joiners as needed (no nuts are necessary)
Step 116: Glue assembled joiners to fuselage as shown
Step 117: Apply wood and clamps so joint
appears as shown
Step 118: Double check fuselage alignment
and clamp together while glue dries.
Step 114: Assemble joiners as shown
Step 115: Tape fuselage together and insure
it is straight. (tape only top/bottom edges)
Badger “Createx”
paints are water
based and durable
When airbrushed,
they give a
brilliant
lightweight result
Step 119: OPTIONAL - Now is a good time
for painting, or wait to the end-- your choice
Install Radio Parts
You’ll need : pen, hobby knife, Dremel tool, ruler,
control horns, ez-connectors, 0.39” wire,
white gorilla glue or quick grip, pliers,
radio system, battery, ESC, BEC if needed
Step 120: Gather parts and tools.
Page 14
We recommend a
3300mAH 4S lipo
pack for best
results.
A dremel
tool with
drum
sander
works well
after slicing
the outline
Step 121: Obtain your battery and charge it.
Plane LEFT
BOTTOM side
shown
Step 122: Mark receiver location on fuselage
side/bottom so ESC/BEC reaches it
Step 123: Slice hole in fuselage for receiver
installation
Step 126: Slice servo outlines with sharp
hobby knife and clear foam to make cavity as
shown
Step 127: Test fit servo and make slits in foam
for wire to RX as shown.
Don’t forget servo
arms and screws!
Servo arms must
point straight up
with radio turned
on and trims
centered
Step 128: Glue aileron servos into foam with
white gorilla glue or quick grip.
Plug root aileron
servos into RX to
be sure the servo
locations are
within reach and
equidistant from
center (about 5”
from wing root)
Step 124: Mark root servo locations so their
wires will reach the receiver 1-1/2” from hinge
locate tip aileron
servos about 19”
from wing root
Step 125: Mark tip servo locations so their
wires will reach the receiver 1-1/2” from hinge
Step 129: Both aileron servos installed.
Repeat for both wing halves.
slice servo cavity
all the way
through the
fuselage
Step 130: Locate rudder servo 3” forward of
hinge line as shown and slice cavity
Page 15
Step 131: Glue both elevator servos together
as shown
slice servo cavity
all the way
through the
fuselage
Step 136: Feed the wires through channels
Step 132: Locate and cut elevator servo cavity
under stab LE as shown
Step 133: Extend and route servo wires to
RX. Melt or drill channel to hide wires
if you use extensions,
it will take three (3)
18” extensions to
reach the RX
Step 134: Solder or insert extensions as
desired. Forcep “pull tools” helps route wires
Step 137: Tuck the wires into channel and tape
in place as shown
Step 138: Once all wires are routed and
tucked into place glue servos into cavities.
Install servo arms
so they are
centered
(Transmitter trim
and stick neutral
with servo arms
perpendicular)
Step 139: Hook up and and test your radio
to insure controls move as intended.
Step 135: Cut a channel down the bottom
center for the wires
ailerons use EZ
connectors
rudder and
elevator will use
Z bends insead
at servo end
Step 140: Install EZ connectors on aileron
servo arms.
Page 16
Note shape of
control horn-- the
point at the front
will inset
perfectly with
point of the
aileron at the
hinge line
Elevator and rudder use
2-56 rods and clevises
Clevises go into control
horn end
(z bends give better
clearance at servo end)
Step 141: Use control horn to mark location
for installation. Push rod should be straight.
Step 142: Make slice into the aileron and
through hinge as shown.
Note control horn
“bottom” should be
flush with other side
of aileron. Enlarge
slice as needed.
Step 143: Insert control horns and apply thin
CA and kicker to both sides. (top too).
Step 146: Install clevis then make Z bend in
rudder and elevaor push rod wires.
Use Z bends in 0.039”
wire for aileron
control horn end
Trim extra push rods
after all controls
centered and EZ
connectors adjusted.
Step 147: Make Z bends in aileron push rods
and install.
Step 148: Adjust push rods to center controls
as needed.
Step 144: Make slice and test fit rudder control
horn 3” down from angle cut as shown.
Step 145: Install rudder control horn as you
did the others.
Install Landing Gear
You’ll need : pen, hobby knife, Dremel tool, ruler,
1/8” fiberglass rods, 1/16” wire, scissors,
white gorilla glue or quick grip, clamps,
wheels, nylon screws
nuts, landing gear struts, sandpaper, pliers,
scrap cardboard, steel bolts, CA kicker,
G10 parts, rubber bands/O-rings
Step 149: Gather parts and tools.
Step 150: Sand one side of each LG strut as
shown.
Page 17
join sanded
sides together
Step 151: Laminate LG struts together using
medium CA as shown
Step 152: Apply LG strut template as shown
with 3M77
Step 153: Cut and drill LG Strut to length
according to tempalte as shown
Step 156: Assemble LG parts as shown.
Install nylon bolt and nut for main LG pivot.
Step 157: Insert carbon tube to locate support
inserts as shown
Be careful not to
glue carbon tube yet!
Just use it to locate
the spacers and
remove before glue
sets.
Step 158: Glue support inserts to one support
plate with CA and kicker as shown
Repeat Steps for
other LG Strut
also
Step 154: Mount wheels with 1-1/4” steel
bolts and nuts.
Drill holes first
Heavy duty tin snips
may be used to cut
parts from template
Step 155: Make 4 LG support pieces from
template in similar fashion.
Be careful not to
glue carbon tube yet!
Just use it to locate
the spacers and
remove before glue
sets.
Step 159: Glue support to make “sandwich” as
shown with CA and kicker
Step 160: Glue the 1/8” fiberglass rod into the
the LG support as shown
Page 18
mark both sides of
support
Step 161: Repeat for other gear assembly
(make left and right gear legs)
Step 162: Mark the wing bottoms 6” from
each root edge as shown (left and right)
Step 163: Mark 2-1/2” forward of the spar
along previous marks as shown
Step 166: Use LG assembly to mark location
for supports. Align hole to scribe as shown.
Step 167: With a sharp hobby knife, slice
the borders for the LG supports as shown.
Careful not to poke
through top surface.
(glue will fill holes in
following steps anyway
in case you do!)
Also don’t grind away
any spar material.
Step 168: Using Dremel tool with collet as
depth gage, make slots in wing between slices
Cut slot in center so
fuselage clears template.
Align edge of template with
marks from previous step
The edge marks location of
LG spar to be inserted into
wing and through fuselage
Step 164: Make a template from scrap cardboard and scribe wing along edge as shown
This marks the distance
for each LG from the
wing root edge
Step 165: Measure and mark 8” from each
root along previous scribe as shown
Step 169: pull out any foam being careful not to
cut too deeply to the top surface
The carbon tube will
need to lie flush with
the wing surface when
inserted into LG
support so adjust depth
of support accordingly
Step 170: Test fit LG assembly into slot to
check your progress.
Page 19
If you reverse the angles
of your slices and clear
out the foam, the spar
will be more eastily
trapped in the groove
(think of reverse
“pumpkin lid carving)
Quick grip shown
White gorilla glue does
a better job of filling
any gaps in the foam
but either may be used
Step 171: Slice wing to fit carbon tube along
scribe.
Note tube extends
slightly past supports
on each side
Step 172: Remove foam to create a groove for
the carbon tube
Step 173: Slice and poke through fuselage
cener to connect this channel.
Step 176: Apply glue to supports
Step 177: Apply glue to tube.
Step 178: Insert LG supports and tube as
shown
Step 174: Test fit carbon tube and remove
foam as needed
Step 175: Test fit gear supports and tube.
Clear any foam which prevents full insertion.
Step 179: Check and adjust alignment as
needed while glue cures.
Step 180: Attach #64 rubber bands as shown.
Wrap them 2-1/2 times
Page 20
Refer to template
pages for tailwheel
bending guide.
Final Assembly
You’ll need : pen, hobby knife, Dremel tool, ruler,
“H” motor mount, rubber bands/O rings,
battery, velcro strap, 4-40 nylon bolts
Scrap wood, G10 or plastic
(ie credit card thickness,
zip ties, scrap 1/16” rod, motor, ESC
Step 181: Make a small bend in 1/16” wire
as shown.
Step 182: Make next bend to trap tailwheel
and continue bending as template shows.
Step 183: Make final bends and trim wire
according to template.
Step 186: Gather parts and tools.
Step 187: Insert “H” mount as shown with
longest legs down
Motor thrust line
should be about 1/4”
above wing /fuse
center
See template
drawing side view
Step 188: Use center hole to orient the “H”
mount and mark rod locations on “H” mount
Slice should be next
to hinge for best
strength.
Step 184: Slice the rudder as shown to
receive wire.
Refer to template for
G10 reinforcement
location
Step 185: Apply Quick grip or white Gorilla
Glue and G10 supports and clamp till dry.
Step 189: Insert round grinder into Dremel
tool.
Step 190: Make “half round” slots as shown
between your marks for rods to seat.
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Step 191: Mount motor to “H” mount with
bolts, washers and loc tite as shown.
Step 196: Mount secured as shown. Repeat for all 4 corners of “H” mount.
Make 2 slices -one above, one
below
Step 192: Insert motor assembly as shown.
Step 197: Slice through fuse to poke zip tie
around G10 reinforcements as shown.
Step 193: Place mount to back side of rods Step 198: Insert zip tie around ESC and/or
BEC wires and tighten as shown
Step 194: Apply rubber bands (or O rings) as
shown. Trim plastic for necessary clearance.
Step 199: Insert another zip tie around ESC
and/or BEC rear wires as shown.
Step 195: Stretch behind “H” mount and
around rod as shown.
Step 200: A scrap piece of 1/16” rod will
prevent zip tie from pulling through hole
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Step 201: Mark CG location 6-3/4” from LE
at wing root
Step 206: Slice through fuselage above and
below battery edge locations as shown.
Step 202: Place battery on wing top left side
and move to balance on the marks.
This depends on
your battery
location
Step 203: With battery at balance position,
mark spot for battery lead to poke through
This depends on
your battery
location
Step 204: Make hole in wing to clear
battery connector if needed
Step 207: Insert (two linked) velcro straps
through fuselage to hold battery.
piece should be
sized to fit between
slots in foam
Step 208: Cut scrap wood or plastic to act as
backer support as shown
A soft piece of foam
rubber may be
glued on the other
side between
fuselage and
battery to stop it
from sliding
Step 209: Glue G10 beneath velcro as shown.
Adjust straps to reach around battery
Step 205: Mark center of battery as shown.
Step 210: Route, tuck, hide remaining wires
as desired.
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Optional Items
You’ll need : pen, hobby knife, covering iron, mylar,
drill, scrap 1/16” rod,
quick grip, clear plastic wing root joiner ,
airbrush, paint, 1/8” drill, socket
This helps to give
the foam a
protective skin to
resist tearing.
Step 211: Gather parts and tools.
Locate “wing root
joiner” which was
made from the
template when the
control horns were
cut from the thick
clear plastic sheet
Step 212: Slice through the fuselage and
both wings as shown for wing root joiner
This helps prevent
the wings from
separating in hard
nose down crashes.
It can be installed
at any time.
Step 213: Insert joiner and glue with quick
grip to lock both wings together.
Step 216: Smear Quick Grip over any foam
corners likely to contact the ground.
A covering iron
turned up to the
“high” setting
helps this step
Step 217: Sand or melt the fuselage corners
smooth and round as desired.
Badger “Createx”
paints are water
based and durable
Step 218: Airbrush canopy and other
decorations as desired.
Step 214: Apply quick grip to wing tip
bottoms
Step 215: Apply mylar strips to avoid scuffs
when taxiing “aggressively” over pavement.
Step 219: Cean out/ re-tap the holes in
fuselage joiners to install the 4-40 nylon bolts
Step 220: A socket driver is handy for the
provided hex 4-40 nylon bolts
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