5376 Amalfi Drive, Clay, NY 13041 www.tufflight.com
The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!
Wingspan: 48"
Length: 38"
Weight: 4.25 - 4.75 lbs
Engine: .40 - .53 two stroke,
.63-.82 four stroke
Radio: 4 channels
Servos: 5
Wing Area: 720 sq in
Side Area: nominal 200 sq in
Hello, and thanks for buying the 4D! Whether you’ve just entered the exciting world of 3D flying, or a seasoned
veteran, the 4D is the perfect combination of agility, durability, versatility and value.
Caution: The 4D is not intended as an R/C trainer airplane. This plane is a very agile aerobatic performer that is
capable of quick rolls, hovering flight and many tricks appealing to the “3D” flyer.
Amazing 3D capability
-plus-
Outstanding Durability
The CG location is 5” from the leading edge. Move rearward as desired for easier 3D
Note: If you want to fly slow AND fast, be sure to install tail counterbalances shown at end of manual.
While you may be tempted to fly close to yourself, please practice in a safe manner.
Always obey safety rules and do not exceed your abilities.
Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and follow-
ing the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.
We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!
Items Included in kit:
Wing:
Pre sliced foam cores
(2) 3" x 24" pre cut corplast ailerons
(4) Robart Hinge points
Braces:
(2) 1/2" x 1" x 5-7/8" engine mount beams
(1) 3/16”" x 2" x 9" engine plate
(4) 1/16" x 3/4" x 5" support plates
(1) 1/16" x 1-1/2" x 5" fuse key plate
(1) 0.040" x 1-5/16" x 48" brace material
(1) 0.040" x 1-5/16" x 24" brace doubler
(1) 0.060" x 1-3/8" x 8" soft plastic sheet
This Instruction Manual
Template Plot Sheet
3/16” formed landing gear
Rev 2.7
Fuselage, Tail Feathers and Fins:
(1) machined plastic fuselage (the bat)
(1) pre-drilled 7/8” wood axle dowel
(1) 3/16” x 10.5” carbon tube axle
(1) 3/16” x 18.5” carbon tube axle
(2) 7/32” x 2-1/2” brass axle sleeve
(2) 12" x 24" corplast sheets
(8) wooden skewers
(2) 3” blue skewer guide tubes
Hardware:
(4) 1/4-20 x 1.5" nylon bolts
(10) 1/4-20 nuts
(2) large washers
(4) 14” zip ties
(6) 3/16” wheel collars
(1) 7” x 1/16” tail skid wire
12” thin copper wire
Page 1
Items needed to complete:
Helpful Tools:
Equipment:
.46-.53 two stroke engine
or .63-.82 four stroke
radio receiver
6” aileron extension
(used as battery switch/charging)
battery: 600 mAH
5 servos,
2 aileron, 1 rudder, 1 elevator,
1 metal geared throttle servo if possible
Parts:
1 or 2 rolls Ultracote covering
fuel tubing
poly fill (available at
fabric stores) for radio RX packing
8 oz fuel tank
optional foam rubber under tank (for 4 stroke)
(3) clevises
(7) control horns (Large Dubro “T style”)
(14) 2-56 bolts and nuts for horns and jam nuts
(5) 12” 2-56 single threaded end push rods
(2) 3” 2-56 double threaded end push rods
(1) 2-56 x 1” threaded rod
4 feet pull pull cord and 2 crimp tubes
nyrod push rods and housing tubes
(2) 3” diameter wheels
(4) 3/16” wheel collars
(4) 4-40 x 1” bolts (for engine mount)
(4) 4-40 nylon insert lock-nuts
(substitute 6-32 for .72 4 stroke)
spinner nut
props : 11x4 for a 40 size 2 stroke
14x4, 13x5 or 13x6 for a 4 stroke
40 grit sandpaper on block
(available at auto finishing stores
and Sears)
hobby knife / utility knife
soldering iron
rat tail file
square
X-acto knife with # 26 blade
(2.25 inches long, great for cutting
servo pockets from foam)
Phillips head screwdriver
straight screwdriver
long nose pliers/wire cutters
drill with:
1/4" bit
3/16” bit
3/32” bit
5/32” bit
1/8" bit (for engine 4-40 bolts)
#48 bit (for push rod servo arm holes)
#49 bit (for push rod throttle arm holes)
Dremel Tool w/ drum sander & cut-off wheel
hacksaw, razor saw, coping saw or band saw
covering iron
felt tip pen
pencil
ruler/straight edge
scissors
36” x 3/8” dowel or similar
flat building table, at least 6 ft long
“spray safe” area for applying 3M spray glue
(ie. outside, or a large box indoors)
mineral spirits for spray glue cleanup
(also great for cleaning fuel/oil residue!)
Adhesives:
Elmers “Ultimate” polyurethane glue (formerly
called “Pro Bond” (aka “Poly U”)
3M-77 Spray adhesive
Goop brand adhesive
(household, plumber's, auto,
marine varieties all OK)
hinge tape - Frost King 2" weatherseal # T94
is excellent (25’ roll avail at Walmart)
silver solder and flux
medium or thin CA
5 minute epoxy
masking tape
Useful:
2" wide roll thin clear packing tape for field repairs
big spray can of WD-40 for field cleaning
crashed engines
toothbrush and other small stiff brush for field
cleaning crashed engine
cotton swabs for field cleaning engine carb
plentiful supply of props (11 x 4 for 40 size 2 stroke,
14x4 for 4 stroke)
plentiful supply of 1/4-20 nylon bolts/nuts
plentiful supply of wooden skewers
Page 2
Glues Needed:
You will need these glues to assemble your plane. Please do not substitute!
CA (cyanoacrylate) - either medium or thin viscosity. Only a small amount needed.
5 minute epoxy : only a small amount needed. 10 or 30 minute may be used if you’re patient.
Elmers Ultimate Polyurethane Glue - high strength, light weight, expands while curing to penetrate and fill voids.
(we call it “poly U” glue). Until recently it was sold as “Pro-Bond”
Goop :
3M77 : There is no acceptable substitute. Used in many places for air-
Similar to silicone adhesive/sealant but MUCH stronger. The
only acceptable alternatives are Pacer Zap-a-Dap-a-Goo, PFM
or “Shoe Goo”
frame assembly and covering adhesion.
Do all spraying in a “spray safe” area, as overspray may be hazardous to your health, and will make
an annoying mess if carelessly applied. We find a large
box placed on the floor makes a good "overspray booth"
as the spray settles rapidly, but it should be contained.
Many modelers have never used this glue in their hobby
practices, but we find it perfectly suited for foam wing
construction, and many other modeling tasks.
* 3M77 Spray glue may be applied generously, as it is
lightweight.
* 3M77 overspray may be cleaned with odorless min-
eral spirits.
*We consider a "generous" or "heavy" coat to be "bubbly" and cold to the touch after applied. A good heavy coat takes
about 20 seconds of spray time to apply to an area roughly 2 feet by 3 feet.
Choose Your Fuselage Style:
New with Version 2.0 is the “Scale-like” profile option that resembles full scale aerobatic planes. Materials are
included to build either version. Most of the illustrations show the original fuselage style, but differences for building the
scale version are noted in several steps and on the included plot sheets used for cutting the corplast parts.
You can choose among two
styles of elevator to go with
either fuselage style.
If you’re undecided on which
style to choose, the main
difference in flying character
is the original style has
slightly better knife edge
authority.
However, most people like the
looks of the scale profile.
“Scale” Profile Original Symmetrical Profile
Page 3
Prepare the foam and plastic wing pieces
You’ll need : foam core pieces
40 grit sandpaper on block
clear plastic braces, engine plate
3M Spray glue, hobby or utility knife
masking tape, marker, ruler
Step 1: Gather parts and tools
Step 2: Carefully separate foam pieces
Step 3: Peel away “spider webs”
Step 6: Remove film from clear plastic
braces
Step 7: Mark 48” brace at 36” from one
end.
Step 8: Score the brace at the 36” mark
with a knife
40 grit paper or a
scrap piece of foam
makes a good
scraper to remove
pesky “spider webs”
Step 4: Sand cores lightly to clean away
remaining “spider webs”
Sand root edges
if needed
Step 5: Lay cores on table with root edges
together. True by sanding if needed.
Step 9: Snap the brace by bending at score.
Save the left over 12” piece
Step 10: Mark resulting 36” piece at the
center (18” from either end)
Page 4
Step 11: Mark the 24” brace doubler in the
center
Step 16: Discard the 3rd piece. Only two
4” pieces are used
Step 12: Mark left over 12” piece 4” from
one end
Step 13: Also mark 8” from end
Step 14: Score piece along marks
Step 17: Draw a line 1/4” from one edge
the long way as shown. Repeat for both.
Step 18: Score pieces with knife along this
line
Pliers help to
get a good
grip when
snapping this
narrow piece
Step 19: Snap the pieces along the line.
Discard the small strips.
Step 15: Snap along scores to give three
4” pieces
Step 20: Sand both resulting “fuselage
plates” to deburr and make corners round.
Page 5
100 grit
paper works
well here
Step 21: lightly scuff the 36” and 24”
braces with sandpaper (both sides of each)
Step 22: Locate the engine plate and mark
its center and 2” from both edges
Step 23: Locate the front LE core pieces
and remove foam tab as shown
Step 26: Spray the root edges of the rear
cores with 3M77
Stretch tape
tightly across the
joint (top and
bottom)
Step 27: Tape the cores together with
masking tape
apply a heavy
coat of 3M77
Step 28: Spray 1 side each of the 24”
brace doubler and 36” brace
Step 24: Test fit the engine plate into slot
to be sure it lines up to 2” mark
Assemble the foam wing pieces
You’ll need : foam core pieces
clear plastic braces, engine plate
fuse key plate, support plates
3M Spray glue, Goop
masking tape, small clamps
Step 25: Gather parts and materials
Test fit both
foam LE
pieces
You can use
the plate to
“sand” out
slot if needed
Use the center
marks to align
the smaller
brace on top of
the larger
Step 29: Join the 24” brace to the 36”
brace centered with glue sides together
Step 30: Press the braces tightly together
Page 6
apply a heavy
coat of 3M77
(24” piece on
top)
Spray whole
front edge
Step 31: Spray the whole brace assembly
with 3M77 on the doubler side only
Step 32: Spray the wing assembly front
edge as shown
Place the 24”
piece against
the foam
Step 33: Place the brace assembly glue
side to the wing front as shown
Step 36: Spray the wing assembly front
edge again as shown
Step 37: Remove masking tape from “no
spray zone”
Step 38: Spray the rear edges of the front
LE cores as shown down their whole length
Make marks 21/2” each side
of center
Step 34: Mark a “no spray” zone 5” wide
as shown
Step 35: Mask the region between the
marks as shown
Align pieces evenly
with rear core tips.
Leave the center “no
spray zone” exposed
the front cores are
interchangeable
Step 39: Apply the front cores to the wing.
Tape tightly as shown
Step 40: Apply Goop to the rear edge of
the engine plate. (holes are closer to front!)
Page 7
Goop where
plate sits in
foam slots (see
next step)
Step 41: Apply Goop to top and bottom
surfaces 2” from each end
Double check
hole location
(closer to front!)
Step 42: Insert engine plate into slots as
shown
Step 43: Press plate firmly to brace
Step 46: Apply Goop to edges of 5”
support plate
Step 47: Set the support plate at the angle
shown to brace and top of engine plate
Don’t be stingy
when making
fillets!
We need very
strong joints here!
Step 48: Smooth a fillet of Goop along
edges of plate as shown
Don’t tape over
center area
Step 44: Stretch tape tightly to press plate
down. Apply two strips to both ends
Step 45: Smooth a fillet of Goop at the
joint both top and bottom as shown
Step 49: Glue the bottom support plate
likewise
Step 50: Apply plate to bottom and
smooth another fillet as shown
Page 8
Be sure support plates
remain in correct alignment
(under tape). Tape or clamp
plates as necessary to be
sure fillets are smooth and
will dry to strong joints
Step 51: Stretch tape as shown. Monitor
the fit of the support plates.
Key plate should
protrude slightly
from both top and
bottom surfaces
Step 52: Slide the fuselage key plate into
the slot as shown
Mark plate at both
top and bottom
surfaces
Step 53: Mark fuse key plate where it
protrudes beyond wing surface
Step 56: Insert key plate
Step 57: Wipe away excess Goop
Step 58: Apply Goop to one side of the
two “fuselage plates” made in step 20.
Sand and test fit
again as needed
for a flush fit
Step 54: Remove key plate and sand it
down to marks so it will be flush
Step 55: Apply Goop to both sides of key
plate
Center the fuselage
plate at the wing
rear
Step 59: Press the plate to the wing top
surface at rear as shown
Step 60: Glue the bottom plate similarly as
shown
Page 9
Be careful not to distort the wing!
Step 61: Use lightweight clamps to hold
the plates together while Goop cures.
Prepare misc pieces while Goop cures
You’ll need : 2 remaining 5” support plates
fuel tank & parts: clunk, pickup tube,stopper
engine mount beams
3/16” drill
40 grit sandpaper on block
Step 62: Gather parts and tools
Be sure fuel tube is NOT
too long!
(clunk should NOT
touch rear of tank when
stopper pushed in place)
Don’t forget the silver
retainer ring!
Step 63: Assemble fuel tank. Cut tube to
correct length, apply clunk, ring and stopper.
Step 66: Sand corners of plate round
Be sure to make
left and right
versions!
(Holes are NOT
in beam centers!)
Step 67: Sand small bevel into one edge of
engine mount beam as shown. Use 40 grit!
Make tail feathers and fins
You’ll need : corplast material, straight edge / ruler
utility knives, hobby knife
control horns and screws, marker
3/16” drill, scissors, 3M77, mineral spirits
paper template plot, brass tube
Step 68: Gather tools and materials
Step 64: Mark centers of 5” support plates.
Center on tank bottom. Mark edge locations
Make two identical
tank support plates
(2 holes per plate)
Step 65: Drill 3/16” holes through plates
as shown at tank edge marks
Note: We use the terms
“elevator” and “rudder”
but the correct terms are
really horizontal and
vertical “stabilators” as
they move as one piece
Please forgive the
informality
Step 69: Decide which outline style you
like and cut out rudder template
Step 70: Lay template on corplast as
shown and mark axle flute location
Page 10
Be careful to make the
line centered on one flute
Step 71: Extend the axle location marks
along the whole piece of corplast
Use only a VERY
LIGHT mist coat!
line up the axle
location of the
template with the line
on the corplast
Step 72: Lightly spray back of rudder
template with 3M77 and apply to corplast
Draw the knife so
the flutes guide it
against the straight
edge and not away.
Watch your fingers!
Step 73: Cut out the rudder using a
straight edge and sharp utility knife
Step 76: Cut relief for brass axle tube as
shown
Step 77: Be sure to cut outside flute walls.
Repeat for both notches
Step 78: Remove corplast rectangles
section and trim edges neatly.
This is the location
for the rudder axle
Step 74: Lift up template at arrows and mark
closest flutes under these locations as shown
Step 75: Center brass tube in rudder gap
and mark end locations
Choose which style
you like for the
elevators. Either
one will work with
either fuselage style
(scale or non-scale)
Step 79: Cut out elevator templates.
This step not needed for
Scale Elevator style.
Step 80: Cut a “fresh edge” in corplast.
Be careful not to cross any flute walls.
Page 11
This step not needed for
Scale Elevator style.
non scale tail
feathers shown
Step 81: Trim flutes from “fresh edge” as
before. This will be the elevator LE
For Scale Elevator
style, be sure flutes are
perpendicular to side
edges, for correct axle
alignment
Step 82: Lightly spray 3M77 to back of
template and align LE to corplast edge
Step 83: Cut elevator free with knife and
straight edge
Step 86: Repeat 81-85 for other elevator
half.
perform this step to
avoid crushing the
corplast when
installing the control
horns
(wood skewers will be
Gooped into the flutes)
Step 87: Optional- skewer pieces into upper
flutes where control horn mounts.
Step 88: Optional- Cut 3 skewer pieces to
roughly 1”. Goop into position where shown
Step 84: Mark location(s) for elevator axle
flute
Step 85: Measure and mark 3/4” from
edge on the axle flute as shown
Step 89: Cut out rudder control horn template. Use to it mark location for horn screws
Step 90: Drill holes with 1/16 bit.
Install rudder control horn facing left side.
Page 12
Don’t crush corplast!
Optional:
You can still go back and
glue some wood filler in
flutes if you DO crush it
too much
mark this flute
along it’s whole
length
(lift up paper
after you mark
which flute it is)
Step 91: Be careful NOT to overtighten
screws
Step 92: Clip extra bolt length
Step 93: Deburr bolt ends as desired
Step 96: Align template as shown so arrow
points to the center of a flute and mark
this method
allows you to keep
your alignment
with the marked
flute
repeat for other
end of template
Step 97: lift up template while holding other
side and lightly spray 3M77 as shown
Step 98: Cut out corplast on outline with
sharp utility or hobby knife as shown
Install elevator
horns on bottoms
Step 94: Repeat horn installation steps for
all tail pieces.
Don’t cut
individual pieces
from template
for the aft fuse -you’ll lay them
on the corplast
together.
Step 95: Remove top and bottom fuse aft
section in one piece as shown.
align plot so
arrow is centered
on a flute for each
template piece
try to keep flute
direction straight
along whole piece
Step 99: For remaining fuse pieces, align to
corplast and mark flutes as shown
An iron or heat gun will
help soften glue for
easier removal
Step 100: Remove paper from parts and
clean 3M77 residue with mineral spirits
Page 13
Assemble fuselage
You’ll need : machined “bat” with filler dowel
epoxy, Goop, brass axle tubes, marker
1/4” drill, knife, tape measure(s)
100 grit sandpaper, rat tail file
wing assembly, long dowel, alcohol
Step 101: Gather parts and tools
Step 102: Mark bat and dowel to note
orientation before disassembly
Step 103: Push out dowel with another
long dowel.
Step 106: Roughen up brass tube
Be sure to re-align
using your mark!
Proceed quickly to
next step
Step 107: Apply a small amount of 5
minute epoxy to dowel and glue in place
Don’t get epoxy
inside tubes. Clean
with alcohol if
needed
Be sure tubes are
centered
Step 108: Install both axle tubes with
epoxy. Work back and forth to coat well.
Be careful not to ruin
pre-drilled axle holes!
Step 104: Drill lightening holes using 1/4”
bit as shown.
Step 105: Test fit brass axle tube and file
axle hole as needed for a snug fit
test fit brass
tubes into the
bat holes and
trim the bat for
a snug fit as
needed
Step 109: Draw line as shown at bat front
marking the “key” centerline
Make several careful
passes to aid cutting
Step 110: Cut along this line with sharp
knife all the way through.
Page 14
Step 111: Measure and mark fuse plates
13/16” from wing center as shown
Don’t go all the way
through! (drill
separate holes from
each side)
Step 116: Use the marks on the plates and
measure from tips to align bat in place
Be sure the bat is straight
in both YAW (ie, aligned
as in above picture, and
PITCH axes for this step)
Move the assembly
carefully when marking
each tab (top and bottom)
Step 112: Drill both top and bottom the fuse
plates on the marks in their centers as shown
Step 113: After drilling all 4 locations, clear
the foam between the plates with the drill
Up till now, the wing
bottom could be
either side.
Pick the “prettier”
side for the top
Step 114: Mark fuse and wing bottoms.
Fuse bottom should have the “bat label”
Step 117: Mark exactly where the key
plate lies under each key tab (all four)
the dotted line
shows 1/4” depth
of cut
repeat for all tabs
Step 118: Cut a 1/16” wide notch on the
mark in the key tab with sharp hobby knife
Step 119: Finished fuselage
Push it as far
forward as you can
the bat “key tabs”
should be centered
on the fuse key plate
edge within the wing
Step 115: Spread apart the bat and place it
over the key plate as shown.
A sharp hobby knife
works well.
Test fit nyrod
housing into slot
Step 120: Remove the plastic between predrilled holes marking nyrod exit locations
Page 15
angle slightly to the
left as shown
(see step 123)
Note Elevator and
Rudder tube
locations
Elevator - right side
Rudder - left side as
installed on plane
Step 121: Use rat tailed file to get a nice
angled exit for the nyrod housing
Step 122: Cut nyrods to indicated lengths
Insert a skewer into the
hole to test nyrod angle
as shown
do not glue at this time!
Step 123: Test fit nyrod tube in place.
Trim/file slot as needed.
Step 126: View looking inside the bat
(shown bottom side up)
Twist the tubes and
work back and forth
to distribute Goop
into slot and all
around tube
Step 127: Spread Goop on tubes where
they exit and work into slot
Make nice fillets
around the tubes.
When satisfied, set
aside to dry
Step 128: Goop front of tubes also (inside
and outside). Don’t get Goop into ends.
Step 124: roughen the blue outer nyrod
tube ends with sandpaper
Step 125: Insert the blue push rod housings as shown.
Prepare fin and tank locator holes
You’ll need : wing assembly, fuel tank
blue skewer guide tubes
square, marker, sandpaper, rat tail file
fins, skewer, tank support plates
No gluing at this time!
Step 129: Gather parts and tools
Step 130: roughen up skewer tubes with
sandpaper
Page 16
use square
to insure
hole is
perpendicular
to wing as
shown
Step 131: Poke hole through wing behind
brace at wing center and insert blue tube
This will be
used as a
guide to
locate the
holes in the
following
steps
Step 132: If using the scale fuse, tape the
front piece together temporarily as shown
Use the top fin as a
marking gauge flutes
need to align over tube
guides where skewers will
later be inserted
(scale profile must be
taped together)
Step 133: Align top fin so first flute at front
edge of the tank cut out meets tube as shown
Step 136: Mark plate locations on wing
bottom as shown
Optional: inset
plates flush with
wing surface by
grinding away
shallow recesses with
dremel tool drum
sander
Step 137: Mark locations of holes in plates
on bottom wing surface
Step 138: Poke holes with skewer as
shown for tank plate. Use square as before.
After marking “hole X”
location, poke it
through with skewer like
you did the front one
Step 134: Mark “hole X” location at first full
flute at rear edge of tank cutout as shown
Insert tube into “hole
X” to help locate tank
Tank shown on bottom
of wing to locate
support plates
Step 135: On wing bottom, center the tank
between holes and use to position tank plates
Step 139: Enlarge holes with rat tail file as
needed so they are clean and straight.
Install Radio
You’ll need : wing assembly, servos, receiver, poly fill
Poly U glue, Goop, hobby knife, water
servo arms, ail ext, ruler, square, marker
assembled engine/prop/spinner, scale
battery, Dremel tool, screwdriver
tank plates, scrap foam, masking tape
Step 140: Gather parts, tools and materials
Page 17
Use the largest
servo arms you have
for all controls
(you can adjust them
later)
Step 141: Gather radio parts and choose
servos for each function
This way is the
easiest, but if you
don’t want to modify
your servos, skip
steps 142-144 and
perform step 153
Step 142: remove the mounting tabs from
the throttle, elevator and rudder servos.
Step 143: Tape rudder and elevator servos
tightly together as shown.
Step 146: Mark the wing TE 14” from the
left tip.
The aileron control
horns will lie 14”
from the wing tips
Step 147: Repeat for right wing
This is the line the
pull pull lines will
take
Step 148: Use a square to extend a line
from the mark toward the brace
blue tube removed
from “hole X” for
clarity
Servos centered on
wing directly to the
rear of “hole X”
Step 144: Lay the rudder/elevator servo
assembly as shown and trace around it
Give some clearance
for folded servo wires
and “poly fill” shock
absorbing material
Step 145: Lay receiver between tank
plates and draw around it as shown
this helps locate
servo arm cavity
(see next step)
Step 149: Mark a position on this line 5/8”
from the brace
Note servo arm
bushing is away
from brace and wire
faces toward wing
center
Step 150: Lay an aileron servo as shown
and trace around it.
Page 18
Wing bottom showing
traced layouts of all
servos (except throttle,
which will be drawn
on top)
Step 151: Repeat for left aileron servo.
battery goes in left
wing bottom
Step 152: Mark the battery location shown
Use these
positions if
you did not
modify the
servos to face
together in
step 141
Step 153: Alternate positions for rudder
and elevator servos
Cut the foam
perpendicular to the
surface
Step 156: Step omitted
Step 157: Step omitted
Step 158: Remove foam from receiver
compartment in similar fashion
Slice all the way through
the wing if necessary so
the servo top surface
will be flush with the
wing
Step 154: Slice inside the rudder/elevator
servo outline with a hobby knife
A Dremel tool can
also be used
A drum sander
makes a neat
constant depth here
Step 155: Pull out the foam in chunks with
long nose pliers
Step 159: Repeat for aileron servos
Step 160: Cut a narrow slot all the way
through the wing for the servo arm only
Page 19
Servo should lie
EXACTLY halfway
into depth of wing.
Step 161: Carefully rout out the servo
depth with a Dremel tool
Also make a notch
for the wire exit
Step 162: Slice notches to clear the servo
tabs for the aileron servos
Center servo arm and
check distance from
both top/bottom
surfaces
Step 163: Test fit servo in the pocket.
Step 166: Locate location of “hole X” (now
exposed in servo cavity)
Servo tops should be
flush with wing surface
(or as close as possible
if bottoms poke through
top surface)
Hole X lies at corners
of servos
Step 167: Dry fit rudder/elevator servo
and blue tube as shown
METAL GEAR
ThROTLE SERVO
HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED!
Poke throttle servo wire
through to wing bottom
and route to receiver
compartment
Step 168: Lay tank on wing top for reference
and trace throttle servo location as shown
Step 164: Remove foam for battery at
chosen location
Step 165: Test fit battery. Pay attention to
routing of wires to receiver cavity
You need to connect
battery and turn on the
transmitter for this
Step 169: Hook up radio and zero trims for
aileron. Insure servo arm sits at neutral.
set up servos now
You’ll install them later
Step 170: Screw both aileron servo arms
in place after neutral is verified
Page 20
A 6” aileron
extension is used
as a plug in
switch from
battery to RX
Wrap battery
also if desired
Step 171: Poke a hole from the bottom to
top near the battery for the battery plug
Step 172: Pull the battery plug through the
wing top as shown
Step 173: Repeat for the aileron extension
(shown installed flush with surface)
Step 176: Optional : tape servo case with
masking tape to protect from glue
Step 177: Spray servo cavity with water
Step 178: Smear Poly U glue into servo
cavity walls
Step 174: Cut shallow slits into wing bottom
surface for servo wiring where needed
We like to hide the
antenna in the wing.
It’s well protected
and allows more
than adequate range
Step 175: Route antenna away from components and wiring. A large half loop is good
Be careful not to get
glue inside tube
Step 179: Coat rear blue tube with Poly U
glue and install into ‘slot X”
The blue tube helps
to align servo
corners
Servos shown NOT
taped
Step 180: Press servos into cavity as
shown
Page 21
Step 181: Spray the battery and cavity
with water and glue in place with poly U
Step 186: Close up showing aileron servo
wire treatment
Step 182: Glue the aileron servos in place
with water and poly U
Step 183: Glue throttle servo likewise.
Don’t forget to tuck wire through to bottom
short aileron
extension used as
charge jack
Step 184: Use a small amount of poly U
and water to affix the charge jack
Step 187: Make scrap rectangles of foam to
fit cavities above aileron servos and battery
Step 188: Glue these patches in place with
water and poly U
Poly U glue foams
and expands as it
cures. It fills small
voids and enters the
pores of the foam very
well.
Don’t use too much!
Step 189: Leave the patches tall until the
glue cures
Step 185: route aileron servo wires into
slices to receiver compartment
Step 190: Bottom view showing all radio
components glued with Poly U
Page 22
Assemble tail feathers on fuselage
You’ll need : fuselage “bat” assembly
corplast tail feathers, carbon tube axles
2-56 push rods, clevises, inner nyrod tubes
silver solder, flux, soldering iron, holding jig
pliers, copper wire, bending template plot
Step 191: Now apply Goop to one side of
the fuel tank plates
Step 192: Press the front tank plate in
place as shown
align with holes
in foam
Step 193: Glue the rear tank plate in place
likewise
Step 196: Gather tools and materials
axle shown as
white, but your
part will appear
as black
Step 197: Sand ends of carbon tube axles
to a slight bevel
This may be a
tight fit
Don’t push it in
all the way yet
Step 198: Insert the 10.5” axle into the
correct rudder flute
First insert tube,
then apply glue to
exposed outside
ends.
Work back and fort
to distribute glue
Step 194: Glue front blue tube in place with
water and poly U (keep out of tube itself)
Set wing aside for glue
to cure being careful
not to disturb
component alignments.
Insert skewers into tubes
to check alignment
Step 195: Check tube alignment, and secure
parts that may move by poly U expansion
Be sure fuselage
is right side up!
Step 199: Align the brass axle tube into the
rudder slot as shown. Push axle into tube
If it’s difficult to push
into flutes, place
rudder on table top
and push axle with
block as shown
Step 200: Push axle even with rudder
bottom.
Page 23
Step 201: Step omitted
Step 206: step omitted
Step 202: step omitted
Step 203: step omitted
try to push the
elevators to center
the axle
(squeeze the tip to
stop it from going in
further as needed)
Step 204: Assemble elevators with axle
through brass tube as shown
Step 207: Screw 3” threaded rudder push
rod link onto 22” rudder nyrod
Step 208: Install jam nut and clevis
Adjust clevis position on
horn to suit your desired
control throw
Outer holes give better
resistance to flutter
trim rudder as needed to
clear push rod
Step 209: Finished rudder control link.
Recommended : use 3rd hole from surface
Step 205: step omitted
Use push rod
template plot to
find bend locations
Save excess push
rods for throttle
linkage!
Step 210: Cut the 12” elevator threaded
push rods to 4-3/4” and bend as directed
Page 24
(Not shown: 16”
nyrod installed into
it’s housing)
Step 211: Sand push rod ends to clean
Don’t use all the
copper wire!
Save about 6” to aid
later aileron pull -pull
installation
Step 212: Join the 2 bent rods to a 1”
piece of threaded rod and wrap with wire
Be sure about 1/2”
of threaded rod is
exposed
(unwrapped)
Step 213: Apply flux to the wrapped
assembly
Step 216: Install nyrod to elevator linkage.
Bend rods to give clearance as shown
Use the 3rd hole from the
surface for best results.
To get radical control,
use a larger servo arm
rather than clevis
attachment close to axle.
Clevis attachment further
from the axle gives gentle
elevator control.
Step 217: Examine elevator and note if
they are twisted with respect to each other.
Step 218: Adjust clevises to remove any
twist
Warning : Use only
silver solder for this
step!
Lead based solder
WILL fail in this joint
Step 214: Support assembly and apply
silver solder to joint
It’s OK if the copper
isn’t coated with
solder as long as
solder coats the
push rod joints and
looks shiny
Step 215: Clean and inspect joint for
strength.
Push rod action
should be very free
A slight spring
tension between rod
links is all you need
to keep stabs together
Step 219: Move push rod to insure smooth
throw. Adjust to give desired range.
Trim and shape wing -- prep for covering
You’ll need : wing assembly
40 grit sandpaper on block
razor saw, knife, straight edge
poly fill, acid brush, small cup
3M77, packing tape
Step 220: Gather tools and materials
Page 25
Step 221: Trim rear blue tube close to wing
surface using razor saw (top and bottom)
Sand all blue tube ends flush
after sawing
Step 226: Mark LE center as shown at
engine plate
Step 222: Trim front tube as well (both top
and bottom)
Step 223: Sand foam patches even
Step 224: Sand any bumps away.
Step 227: scribe center line along LE as
shown
Do NOT make a sharply
pointed LE!
Exact profile not
critical, but make
symmetrical
Also check LE for
straightness
Step 228: Carefully sand round contour
using center reference line
Pay particular
attention to the
rudder and elevator
servos (are they
hooked to the correct
side to meet with the
bat push rods?)
Step 229: Perform final radio check to be
sure all channels hooked up as expected
Step 225: Mark wing front surface centers
at tips of LE
Step 230: Pack the RX in poly fill and
tuck inside receiver cavity
Page 26
An acid brush
works well but a
paper towel corner
also works
It’s beneficial to use
a single piece of
covering per side
Step 231: Spray some 3M77 into a cup
and smear around receiver cavity edges
Step 232: Apply a strip of packing tape over
receiver to hold it in place during covering
Step 233: Sand and vacuum wing surfaces
so it is smooth and dust free
Step 236: Lay wing over covering to
determine size needed
Step 237: Cut covering oversize leaving a
few inches for maneuvering
Step 238: Cut two rectangles roughly 7” x
5” for the engine plate area
Cover the Wing
You’ll need : wing assembly, 3M77, mineral spirits
Ultracote, scissors, paper towels
covering iron, single edge razor blade
hobby knife, marker, masking tape
100 grit sandpaper on block, skewer
soldering iron, acetone, popsicle stick
Step 234: Gather parts and tools
Step 235: We recommend only Hangar 9
Ultracote for best results.
protect servo cavity
from 3M77 spray
Step 239: Stuff a small piece of paper
towel into aileron servo pocket to mask
Step 240: Tape over exposed radio components to mask
Page 27
Step 241: Spray engine plate area with
3M77
Step 246: Pull covering around edges and
iron down. Trim excess.
Step 242: Push covering into corners with
popsicle stick
Step 243: Set your covering iron at 250 to
300 degrees F
Step 244: Iron covering down as shown
Step 247: Spray wing bottom with 3M77
Step 248: Spray wing leading edge area
with 3M77
Step 249: Spray wing tips and TE with
3M77
Do not cut and pleat
covering around engine
area for fuel resistance
Bring covering around
corners as shown to
overlap with top
covering later
Step 245: Do not cut covering at the
corners. Fold as needed at corners.
Step 250: Remove all masking tape from
wing bottom.
Page 28
Wait until 3M77 dries a little
before applying covering.
This way you can reposition it
easier, and the adhesive will be reactivated by the heat of your iron
anyway when the covering is in
the final position.
Step 251: Apply covering so it wraps
around wing LE as shown
Don’t iron down yet!
Use heat only for
stretching now, not
shrinking!
Step 252: Stretch and pull covering
around wing contours
A good technique
is to simply sand
servo splines with
100 grit on a block
and remove little
circles of covering
Step 253: Expose servo splines for rudder
and elevator servos
Step 256: Trim covering at edges leaving
some overlap
Ultracote sticks
better to itself if you
don’t spray over it
first
Mask where
covering will
overlap
Step 257: Mask LE covering overlap with
tape. Also mask top radio component holes
Step 258: Spray wing top with 3M77
Step 254: Pull and work covering then iron
down when all wrinkles are “negotiated”
Step 255: Trim covering neatly around
engine plate area and iron down overlap well
Mineral spirits
followed by acetone
leaves a perfectly
clean surface for best
adhesion of covering
to itself
Step 259: Remove masking tape and clean
any residue off covering with mineral spirits
Step 260: Apply top covering like you did
with the bottom
Page 29
Find and poke rear
tube holes with
skewer
Step 261: Iron covering to wing tips and
trim
Step 262: Apply a patch where battery
cable pokes through top covering
Step 263: Expose switch charging jack with
knife. Also expose throttle servo spline.
Step 266: Use a skewer to locate and poke
holes where pre-drilled.
Step 267: Poke fuse plate holes as shown
Step 268: Poke front tube, engine plate,
and tank plate holes as well.
Step 264: Now set the covering iron at
300 degrees F for final shrinking
Step 265: Give the covering a general
shrinking and press down well to foam
Step 269: Use a sharp knife to cut windows over aileron servo pockets
Expose aileron
servo top and
bottom for pull pull
cord installation
You’ll patch over
this “window” later
Step 270: Remove paper towel and trim
covering back as shown over servo window
Page 30
Step 271: Seal covering to hole edges with
soldering iron if desired.
Install pull pull setup for ailerons
Step 276: Drill holes in corplast as shown
about 1” deep
You’ll need : covered wing, corplast ailerons
marker, ruler, punch, hinge points
scrap corplast, poly U glue, water
hinge tape, knife, 4 control horns
2-56 screws and nuts, pull pull cord
thin copper wire, CA, crimp tubes, pliers
Step 272: Gather parts and tools
Keep aileron aligned
with wing and mark
location for hinges
only 4 hinges needed
Step 273: Mark 1” from tip edges of ailerons. Transpose marks to wing as shown
just press fit -- no
glue needed
Step 277: Install Robart hinge points as
shown
Step 278: Get some scrap pieces of
corplast
Step 274: Measure and mark 1” from root
edge of aileron as shown
Step 275: Poke holes in wing TE at marks
centered in the width as shown about 1” deep
Step 279: Make 4 shims from corplast
scraps. (dimensions not critical)
proceed to next step
without pausing
Step 280: squirt water and poly U glue
into holes in wing TE
Page 31
Step 281: Install aileron as shown with
two shims on each end to set spacing
Frost King # T94 is
excellent hinge tape!
Walmart sells a 2” x
25’ roll for under $5
Step 286: trim tape even with aileron at
root
Step 282: Remove shims, but take care not
to disturb aileron. Get some hinge tape
Step 283: Measure enough hinge tape
slightly longer than aileron and cut to length
The aileron needs to
be straight for these
steps
Step 284: Carefully apply hinge tape
centered over gap and press to wing TE
Step 287: trim tape even with aileron at
tips
Remove small
rectangle over Robart
hinge “knuckle” as
shown
Step 288: Use sharp hobby knife to cut
window over hinges as shown.
Step 289: repeat above taping steps for
other side of aileron
very gently push the
tape down to the
aileron -- DON’T
move the aileron, or
try to get the tape into
the gap
Step 285: now press tape to aileron being
careful to keep aileron hinge straight
keep aileron
centered to wing
Step 290: press aileron towards wing
squeezing tape sticky sides together
Page 32
Note how top and
bottom tape touch
together.
Work hinge back and
forth and check for
free movement
Step 291: Close up view of hinge pressed
together. Keep centered along length
Step 292: Measure and mark 14” from
tips at hinge line
Horn plates not used
Step 293: Get 4 control horns and trim
away the bottom hole for clearance.
Step 296: Clip excess screw length and
lock nuts in place with CA.
Thin copper wire is a
good tool
(left over from silver
soldering)
Step 297: Thread pull pull line through
servo arm at wing top surface as shown
Step 298: Feed line down through window
as shown
Step 294: Center horn over mark and
hinge line as shown to drill holes for screws
Tighten screws and
nuts.
Don’t crush the
corplast!
Step 295: Choose horns so screws and nuts
will mount horns as shown.
Thread does a “half
wrap” from one side of
the arm to the other
This provides a little
friction. It will be CA’d
in place in the final step
Step 299: feed line so it crosses servo arm
to other side and thread through hole
Horn shown
untrimmed
(from step 293)
Step 300: Pull the thread through the
second outermost hole of the control horn
Page 33
Centering the
ailerons is easy -- just
slide the line through
the servo arm when
your trim is zero
Step 301: Tie a knot and CA as shown
Step 302: now thread the line through a
crimp tube, then through the horn
Pull the line tightly to
keep hinge tight and
aileron compressed to
wing before crimping
Don’t let the line go
slack!
Step 303: Thread back through crimp tube
and pull tight while crimping with pliers
Step 306: Turn on radio and zero the aileron
trim.. Pull / push the line to center ailerons
Careful not to get CA
down into moving
parts.
Use just enough to
lock line to servo arm
Step 307: Once your pull pull line is adjusted, apply CA to servo arm connection
Step 308: It’s OK if the line rubs on the
covering
Step 304: wrap thread back around crimp
tube and pull tight
Step 305: CA the wrap for security and
trim
Step 309: Put a patch of covering over the
window and iron in place
Step 310: View of the pull pull line as seen
from the control horn
Page 34
Install fuselage on wing
You’ll need : wing assembly, wheel collars fuel tank
fuselage / tail assembly, fins, skewers
zip ties, wire cutters, pliers, push rods
servo arms, screws, tail skid wire, marker
tape measure, knife, screwdriver
Step 311: Gather parts and tools
Step 312: Mark location of fuse key plate
on top and bottom
This is great practice
for crocodile
wrestling
Step 313: Stretch the fuselage apart as
shown
Step 316: Check fuselage alignment once
again. Measure tip to tail as shown
Step 317: Measure other side and adjust as
needed to make distances equal
Step 318: Once fuselage position is perfect,
slice through covering at tab locations
Step 314: Push fuselage onto wing so key
slots line up with key plate marks
Leave zip tie a bit
loose for now and
tighten later after you
get the location
perfect
Step 315: Thread zip tie through rear
holes as shown around fuse
Step 319: Push key tabs down as shown
around key plate
Repeat for top
surface also
Step 320: Work tabs in place with screwdriver if they need persuasion
Page 35
Step 321: Use a skewer to poke holes for
zip ties behind key plate as shown
Step 326: Enlarge holes in servo arms with
#49 drill for the push rods.
Step 322: Trim zip tie end to a point so
they will slide through wing easier
Step 323: Thread zip tie through wing and
around fuselage as shown
Step 324: Tighten both zip ties and trim
Step 327: Cut 3” double threaded 2-56
push rod in half
Step 328: deburr cut ends
Use z bend pliers if
you have them,
otherwise do two
steps like shown
Step 329: make first bend as shown
If skewers fit too tightly, sand
skewers or enlarge fuselage
hole slightly with hobby knife
Step 325: poke skewer through fuselage
and wing as shown
Step 330: make second bend for z bend
Page 36
Step 331: Bend angle in short push rod as
shown
Step 336: screw pushs rod into nyrods
Step 332: Turn on radio and zero trims for
rudder and elevator for following steps
Step 333: hold elevator at neutral while
performing next step
Step 334: With push rod installed as
shown, mark location to cut nyrod
Step 337: Mount servo arms with push
rods as shown
Step 338: Make first bend in 7” wire for
tail skid. Compare to template.
Step 339: Bow skid slightly and push into
rudder bottom
Step 335: cut nyrod at mark
If you’re going to use
a 4 stroke, or engine
with severe vibration,
install a slice of foam
rubber underneath
tank.
Step 340: Thread wire ties to make loops
at wing top as shown for fuel tank holder
Page 37
no need to make
these very tight
Tighten just
enough so tank
won’t slide
For Non-Scale
Fuselage:
Wheel collars will
embed in fins and
lock them in place on
skewers
Step 341: tighten zip ties
Choose closest flutes
as necessary so
corplast won’t buckle
Non-scale fin shown.
(For Scale fuselage,
install pieces as
shown at right)
Step 342: Install top fin with skewers into
holes as shown. Install bottom fin also.
For Scale Fuselage:
A hole for the extra
front skewer needs to
be drilled near front
edge of home plate
Step 343: mark location for front skewer
aligned with nearest flute as shown
Step 346: mark locations for 4 wheel collars
which install on the front and rear skewers
For Scale Fuselage:
Wheel collars will
embed in fins and
lock them in place on
skewers
See Plot sheet for
wheel collar
locations
Step 347: mark locations for 6 wheel collarson edge skewers, and one near wing TE
Step 348: For scale fuselage: tape front of
fuse together as shown.
For Scale Fuselage:
remove fuselage fin for
drilling,.
Be sure to drill at
center so fin will be
straight!
Step 344: Drill hole in home plate where
marked with 5/32” bit. Re-install fuselage.
Step 345: Mark locations where zip ties
touch fins and trim so fuse sets close to bat
Don’t
make slices
too wide -just remove
flute walls
at sides
Step 349: remove corplast, push in wheel
collars, and remove any “dimples”
For Scale Fuselage:
Adjust splice as
needed so fuselage
will not buckle
Step 350: Tape joint in scale fuselage with
extra hinge tape. Repeat for bottom
Page 38
Balance the plane with engine installation
You’ll need : assembled plane, engine mount beams
engine, muffler, spinner, prop
mounting hardware, throttle push rods
fuel tubing, landing gear, wheels, collars
ruler, marker, 1/4-20 bolts, nuts, washers
rubber band, drill, 8" soft plastic sheet
Step 351: Gather parts and tools
Step 352: Cut 8” soft plastic sheet in half and
mark home plate hole locations as shown.
Step 353: Drill 1/4” holes in both sheets, and
use over home plate area top and bottoms.
Step 356: Mark CG locations 5” from LE
on wing bottom
don’t forget muffler,
spinner and prop!
Be sure engine
mount holes are
closer to outer edges
so the beams lie
close to the engine
Step 357: flip plane over and hold engine
to mount beams with rubber band as shown
Step 358: Move engine to balance plane
on CG marks
Step 354: Insert landing gear underneath
fin, and engine beams with washers & bolts
Step 355: tighten wheel collars and trim
skewers. Install wheels and collars too.
Step 359: Mark engine hole locations on
beams when balance achieved
A 1/8” bit works
well for 4-40 bolts
Use 6-32 hardware
if your engine is
very large
Step 360: Drill out holes to fit your engine
in mounts. Transpose holes to other beam
Page 39
Step 361: Trim excess beam material at
front with band saw or similar
Step 366: cut a piece of fuel tubing to slip
over both throttle push rods to join them
Step 362: check fit of throttle push rod in
your throttle arm and adjust as needed
Step 363: Mount engine to beams
Step 364: Make throttle link from left over
push rods with z bends. Trim for 3” overlap
Step 367: this slip fit servo saver stops
from stripping gears in a bad crash
Step 368: hook up fuel lines
Use less travel for
“normal” flying as
desired
For bigger throws,
use Big Control
Arms on the servo
end to avoid flutter!
Step 369: adjust elevator linkage for desired
throw. 50 degrees each way is good for 3D practice
Step 365: deburr throttle push rod ends
40-50 degrees each
way is good for 3D
practice
For bigger throws,
use Big Control
Arms on the servo
end to avoid flutter!
Step 370: adjust rudder linkage to provide
your desired throw.
Page 40
Step 371: adjust aileron linkage to provide
your desired throw.
Install Tail Counterbalances if desired
These will allow you to fly FAST
for BOTH 3D and FAST sport flying
You’ll need : (3) 2-56 threaded rods, (6) 1/4-20 nuts
pliers, tape, CA, kicker, vise (desireable),
wire cutters, hammer, ruler, pencil
Step 376: Trim as shown. Remove from
vise and apply medium CA and kick it.
Step 372: Gather materials. Dis-assembly of
rudder/elev not needed (shown for clarity).
Step 373: Measure 5” from the threaded end
of a rod and bend as shown
Step 374: Clamp the bend in a vise if
available. Slide two nuts down over ends.
Step 377: Cover nuts with tape to contain
glue and apply more glue to lock in place.
Step 378: kick CA, remove tape. Mark just
beyond axle end location.
NOTE: With V 2.7 and newer kits:
10.5” and 18.5” carbon axles have virtually
eliminated tail flutter in high speed flight. Previous
kits used heavier and shorter solid glass rods.
Make the counterbalances as indicated above, and
bring them to your flying site. Fly the plane, and see if
your plane needs them. If the tail shakes, install the
counter balance(s) where needed.
Step 379: Determine if you need the counterbalances by flying plane.
Step 375: Bend the non threaded end away as
shown and tap down.
NOTE: With V 2.7 and newer
kits:
It’s likely you will need a
counterblance for the rudder,
but maybe not the elevators.
Install them at the field in
minutes if you do need them.
Step 380: Insert counterbalance rod into elev/
rudder if needed till they touch the carbon axle
Page 41
Figure 1
Notes on Contol Travel Adjustment:
It’s normally best to use the 3rd hole from the pivot end of the horn of the Dubro nylon “T Style”
horns, and NO CLOSER. Be sure your radio is programmed to take advantage of the entire servo
range -- use your travel adjust setting to achieve this. If you need more travel for 3D than you’re
currently getting, use bigger servo arms. Take care all push rods do not bind. If you run into
problems with losing control at high speed, or a “sloppy” feeling, go back and check to make sure
your clevis or push rod attachments are tight, and nothing is bending or binding. Also install the
tail counterweights for better high speed capability.
The tail corplast parts may get “soft” around the control horn areas, and these should be
examined and “beefed” up with tape, or wood splints as needed to restore the corplast structure
integrity. Sometimes, it’s worth 10 minutes to just make new tail pieces. Consult a local sign
shop for scrap corplast, or look for the signs that “expire” after election every November for
lots of free material!
Figure 2
Page 42
Note on the Durable Engine Mount Beams:
The 4D engine mount beams are made of an almost indestructible material that behave like steel. Upon installation
or after a crash they can be bent back into a straight part time after time, using a vise and pliers or similar (they will
NOT crack). For storage, take care to NOT allow the beams to bend down, as gravity will tend to make them droop over
time. A little down thrust won’t hurt anything, but it may effect your elevator trim and ability to hover easily. A good
storage method is to point the plane nose down on the floor resting on the spinner nut and the wheels only. This also lets
after run oil seep into the front bearing of your engine.
Notes on Crashing and Repairs:
Our planes have survived crashes from many different angles and altitudes. If you're unlucky, you may break an
engine part, but otherwise all you'll need is a good supply of nylon bolts, some propellers, and a roll of packing tape to get
you back into the air in under 15 minutes.
If the plane noses in, and buries the engine, carefully remove it and insure it didn't "ingest" any dirt into the carb. If it
did, you'll probably have to partially disassemble the engine and flush it out. This depends more on the terrain at your site
than how you crashed. Examine the carb throat and carefully direct any bits of dirt, grass or bugs out of the engine. Once
the carb throat is clean, close the throttle and with engine inverted, aim a few blasts of WD-40 to clean the carb, engine head
fins, and whatever else got dirty. Wipe off, replace prop, and any broken bolts. WD-40 inside the engine will not prohibit
starting, and may even help, depending on propellant (older cans used propane. Incidentally, this is nice to know for cold
starting in winter climates!)
Check control horns to be sure they did not crack on impact. Also exercise servos under load to check for stripped
gears. Turn on power and slowly move aileron and elevator to extreme positions, lightly pressing against each servo arm as
you listen and feel the servo working. A metal geared servo is beneficial for the throttle for hard nose impacts.
If the engine "ejected" from the wing, find the throttle push-rods and simply slip on another piece of fuel tubing long
enough to connect them giving the needed friction fit. Rods should be able to separate with a heavy pull, but be firm enough
not to slip under normal throttle servo action. Cut/add length of fuel tubing connector to achieve this fit.. This "servo saver"
will continue to save throttle servo gears. Inspect fuel tubes for dirt, and clean if needed, then reconnect fuel tubes.
If the covering splits anyplace on the wing, clean the area well with soap/alcohol and apply a strip of clear packing
tape to cover split to restore skin strength. Don’t worry if the underlying foam splits, as the tape/covering provides nearly
all the strength to handle flight stresses. Most all collision damage can be fixed temporarily with tape until you get home,
at which time you may wish to bolster field repairs and add new covering to make your repairs virtually disappear. Wrinkles
can be ironed out, and tape removed to give almost new appearance.
Major damage can be repaired with plywood or plastic splints and Goop or Poly U adhesives. Fill missing voids with
scrap foam cut/sanded to fit. 3M spray adhesive is invaluable for quick cosmetic repairs involving "reconstructive surgery."
Reapply covering patches to restore skin strength and wipe with mineral spirits and then soap/water to clean overspray.
Always assess damage after each crash to be sure the plane still has enough integrity to maintain control. Check for
stripped servo gears. Check hinges to verify strength. Be sure you have a good charge in the radio battery. Only you can
insure the plane is indeed airworthy.
Have Fun!
Remember, weight is the enemy, so keep repairs light! Tape is your friend. If there's one thing we've learned, it's
amazing how much cosmetic damage can be "ignored" or simply taped when a friend shows up to fly.
We want you to have fun exploring the limits, but please do so safely. You may consider joining The Profile Brother-
hood and the International 3D Special Interest Groups:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/theprofilebrotherhood/
These organizations are dedicated to the promotion of exciting flying, while keeping it safe and fun for all.
We welcome any feedback you may have on this or other TufFlight products.
Please feel free to contact us via our website : www.tufflight.com
http://www.theprofilebrotherhood.com
take care and enjoy!
Mark & Joe
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Also look for these from TufFlight:
The 4D-Lite:
Our first ELECTRIC powered kit. Indoor/outdoor super lightweight and
durable. Fly an entire 3D airshow in your front yard. One day build time. Fully
3D capable deluxe kit versions available so you supply only your radio RX.
The Enduro 40:
Unbelievably maneuverable and durable. Rugged landing gear and huge rudder/
side area allowing amazing knife edge maneuvers and spins.
Introduced the "Rotolanding" to R/C - a flat spin to touchdown, with immediate
takeoff capability! (Enduro with snow skis shown at right)
Snow Skis (4D and Enduro):
The fun doesn't need to end just because there's snow on the ground! You can
perform many "dune buggy" type moves in the snow.
Extremely rugged, these skis may be easily mounted or removed for wheel
installation in minutes. Assembly time roughly 30 minutes.
The Panther:
State of the art in Open B or Slow Survivable (SSC) combat. Unbelievably
maneuverable and durable. 60 inch span for great streamer catching and turning.
The Predator:
Our first kit, and still a popular choice for sport or combat flying. New improved Version 6.0 very durable and
very aerobatic. Simplified construction with all new instructions (like this manual). Removable fin for easy storage,
maintenance and transport. At 48” span and under 2.5 lbs, it’s a fast and agile “fly at a moment’s notice” plane.
Lost Model Alarm:
A lightweight beeper triggered simply by turning off your transmitter. Since
it’s difficult to break our planes, the next challenge can be finding them in trees or
brush. This device helps a lot if a plane “flys away”.
Elevon Mixer (for flying wings):
A simple lightweight programmable on-board electronic mixer. Allows separate travel adjustment for elevator and aileron functions -- super important when
you want to roll fast, but don’t want a real “touchy” elevator.
Warning: Combat is extremely fun and
contagious!
Many clubs around the country are discovering R/C combat.
See us online at: www.tufflight.com
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