Drill with No. 76 (.5mm) drill.
WORK SLOWLY – the hole
intersects the stepped recess
for the insulating bushing – if
you are too aggressive, you will
break the drill bit off in the hole,
and then you are screwed!.
Cranks pins are to be made
7
from brass pins (supplied.) It is
suggested a jig be made from
laminated styrene as shown.
Press crosshead guide supports
into chassis holes each side;
apply SMALL drop of ACC to
edge of hole to fix in place
19
Press drivers onto ends of axles
orienting each wheel to match
crankpin location; offset
opposite side by 90°.
3/30/15 T R Knapp Model Engineering 7
20
Slide piston rods into holes in
cylinders as pilot is fitted to front
of chassis. (Note: add etched
crosshead guide and wire
valve rod after step 20 at right.)
Fix front pilot in place with
screws; cut length of wire and
slip into valve rod hole on
cylinder casting and glue in
place at aft end; slip etched
crosshead guide into slots and
glue in place at aft end only.
12
Test ALL LED lamps with
N’gineering LED tester.
(N’gineering LEDs have colorcoded leads. Richmond
controls LEDs will need to be
marked after trimming to 1-1/2”
length.)
Solder LEDs together in pairs,
anode (+) to cathode (-).
and solder to one pole of
motor; trim leads as shown in
photo in step 17
Solder one lead from LEDs to
17
resistor, and one to opposite
pole of motor; make sure there
is adequate separation
between end of resistor and
motor pole. (Note: Unit in this
photo has already been tested
and color-coded per Step 18.)
Test again, and mark LEDs for
18
correct orientation; after
testing, insulate LED solder pads
with CA adhesive, Pacer
Canopy Glue or Gallery Glass
coating.
spigot into rectangular hole in
side of chassis; for Version 2,
hold chassis upside down in
jeweler’s vice, remove cover
plate screws, remove cover
plate and install new cover
plate and fuel tank casting
using original screws
21
22
Apply drop of CA adhesive in
20
headlamp opening from inside,
and slide rectangular LED into
rectangular opening, holding
until CA sets. (Use accelerator
to speed up this process.)
After both lamps are in place,
slip chassis up into body shell
carefully, taking care not to
pinch any of the fine LED leads,
and making sure the leads do
not foul the drive gears; attach
chassis with two 00-90 x 3/16”
flathead screws through fuel
tanks
Test run locomotive to make
sure lamps work correctly, and
locomotive is level on rails
Trim one MTL 905 coupler box
back to paper thin with motor
tool, or cut away completely;
mount this coupler to end of
locomotive with large lay-shaft
gears using MTL Z/Nn3 coupler
mounting screw, making sure
there is clearance between
coupler box and gear; attach
another MTL 905 to opposite
end of locomotive.
Test run locomotive again.