For optimal performance, it is imperative there
is a level surface prior to installation of new
Fusion Shower Pan. Check existing floor to make
sure it is level. If it is not, please correct prior
to installation. Place the Fusion pan in desired
location and check to make sure it is level.
Step 2 > > > > > > > >
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subfloor
The Standard Fusion
Pan is trimmable
up to 2” around the
perimeter.
Once the pan is in the desired location, holding the
pan steady, trace the inner circle of the pan. You
have now marked the location of the drain on your
subfloor.
Step 3 > > > > > > > >
Using your mark as a guide, cut a hole that is
10” in diameter. Make sure to adjust the depth of
your saw to the thickness of the subfloor to avoid
cutting through the joists. It is best to use a jigsaw
to accurately cut your circle. Note: If possible,
please check or mark location of existing plumbing
and electrical to avoid damaging them.
Step 4 > > > > > > > >
Set the pan into place. Note location of the drain
and make your connections to the waste line.
Install drain in accordance with current plumbing
and building codes.
For your dry run, position the Fusion pan into place
and check to make sure the pan is level. If you
notice any rocking or flexing in the pan, you may
need to shim or shave areas.
Step 6 > > > > > > > >
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IMPORTANT: You must sand the top of the pan
lightly with a palm or belt sander to roughen up the
surface for proper adhesion of waterproofing.
Step 7 > > > > > > > >
To prep for permanent installation, remove the Fusion
pan from the surface. Apply a generous amount of
construction adhesive to the subfloor.
Step 8 > > > > > > > >
Carefully set the Fusion pan into place. Drill and
countersink holes in the Fusion pan. Using the 2 ½”
screws provided, attach the pan. Do not aggressively
screw and over tighten, as you may force the pan out
of level.
On top of existing subfloor and walls install cement
backerboard in preparation for tiling. Make sure
that the top of the backerboard is roughly 1/8”
higher than the Fusion pan. Start with a bed of
thinset using a 1/4” notched trowel. Next, attach
the first layer of
board screws 8” on center. Then, making sure to
stagger the joints, attach the second
backerboard with 1 5/8” cement board screws 8” on
center. Finally, finish the joints with alkali-resistant
mesh tape.
1/2” backerboard with 1 1/4” cement
layer of
1/2”
Step 10> > > > > > > >
Check that the Fusion Pan is level on all four sides.
Fill in any gaps around the perimeter of the pan over
1/8” with latex or acrylic caulk.
Do not use 100% silicone.
thinset
1/2” backerboard
1/2” backerboard
subfloor
Step 11 > > > > > > > >
You now want to attach the Drain adapter flange
to the Fusion Pan. First apply a bead of caulk to
the underside of the drain adapter flange. Lightly
push the flange into place, and screw it down
using the four ¾” screws provided. Remove any
excess caulk that squeezes out.
Step 12 > > > > > > > >
Make your final connections to the drain. First
apply a bead of caulk to the underside of the
strainer body. Pass the strainer through the drain
adapter flange, and tighten. Make sure connection
is snug but do not over tighten.
Gasket Clamp
Adapter Drain Flange
membrane clamp
height adjustment ring
Remove the tile height adjustment ring and membrane clamp and
place to one side; these will be required later in the installation.
BEST PRACTICE: To achieve the best results, we
recommend waterproofing the whole room.
Minimum requirements, shown in these
instructions, show you that you only have to
waterproof the shower zone, which is 6 ½ feet high
and about 2 feet outside of the showering area.
Step 14 > > > > > > > >
Begin taping the wetroom floor at the interior corners
of the Fusion Pan using the corner pieces of the
crack isolation tape provided. Using a paint brush or
trowel, slather liquid waterproofing into corner, press
piece into place, then apply liquid waterproofing on
top. Make sure to smooth out any creases. Repeat for
additional corners.
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Materials needed for wet room waterproofing.
Step 15 > > > > > > > >
Using the 5” crack isolation tape provided, cut
strips of tape to length, to cover all seams (Corner
seams, wall/floor seams, pan/floor joint). Put
pieces aside.
If you are creating full wet room, you will need to tape
any seams throughout the entire room.
If you are only waterproofing the shower zone, you
will only need to tape the seams up to 2 feet outside
the shower area.
Step 16 > > > > > > > >
Just like you applied the corner pieces, use your
cut strips of Crack Insulation Tape to cover all the
seams. Again, trowel or paint liquid waterproofing
onto seam, press tape into position and coat
the top to seal. Make sure to fully cover both
sides of the crack isolation tape with the liquid
waterproofing product. To make this process more
manageable, it is best to work in two foot sections.
NOTE:
Illustration just shows tape use.
Please apply liquid waterproofing to the wall and tape before
applying.
Using the 5” crack isolation tape. Overlap all seams
of cement board used on either the floors or walls.
Overlap the seam where the Fusion pan and cement
board meet.
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Make sure the tape
overlaps the seams
equally.
Step 18 > > > > > > > >
Using the provided precut piece of gasket
membrane, slather area where gasket piece
will adhered to the drain area. Place over drain
adapter flange, making sure to cover all screw
holes, and securely press down into flange. Coat
top of gasket piece with liquid waterproofing.
Important: Remember to remove the clamping
ring prior to placing drain gasket.
Step 19 > > > > > > > >
Now attach the clamping ring. Apply solvent
cement to inside of clamping ring. Press firmly into
position and allow the solvent to set.
NOTE: Do not allow the solvent cement to come
into contact with the membrane
Gasket Clamp
Drain Adapter Flange
Gasket
Membrane
Gasket Clamp
Drain Adapter Flange
Gasket Membrane
Step 20 > > > > > > >
Begin the application of the liquid waterproofing
membrane. Paint a layer of liquid waterproofing
over all taped joints. It is easiest to begin with the
walls first and then proceed to the floor area. For
consistant application, use a paint roller to apply
waterproofing to all surfaces. After first coat is dry,
re-coat.
Apply two coats of liquid waterproofing to achieve
2 mils. (roughly the thickness of a credit card)
Make sure that the “V” section of the gasket clamp
is filled with the liquid waterproofing.
Pro-Tip > > > > > > > >
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To achive the best results, we recommend
waterproofing the whole room.
1/4” to 5/8” Tile Height
5/8” - 1” Tile Height
Step 22 > > > > > > >
In order to set the correct height of the grate frame,
you may need to use the height extension ring
(see diagram to the right). If the height extension
ring is required, it will need to be fixed to the height
adjustment ring using solvent cement. The grate
frame can now be attached to the height adjustment
or extension ring, depending on tile thickness. This is
done by using firm pressure to clip the components
together; it is a tight fit.
grate frame
“click”
adjusting ring
Step 23 > > > > > > >
The height adjustment ring and floor drain must
now be fixed together using solvent cement.
Because solvent cements sets very rapidly we
strongly recommend the adjustment is done “dry”
first.
To set the permanent height of the grate frame,
place a floor tile beside the frame. Rotate the frame
until the height is about 1/16” higher (this accounts
for adhesive thickness). Now mark the position
of the adjustment ring. This mark shows the
final height position. Remove ring, apply solvent
cement, and re-align components to your marked
position. It is best to hold securely until pieces are
fully bonded.
You are now ready to tile. If you are using large
format tiles, they must be cut diagonally and laid
to follow the pitch in the Fusion Pan (From the
corners of the grate frame to the corners of the
Fusion Pan). Apply the tile adhesive, and lay the
tiles in a regular pattern.
Step 25 > > > > > > >
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Once your tiling is complete, grout the floors and
walls. Finalize by adding the drain grate.
Your Fusion Pan installation is now complete.