This guide addresses the Avalon Avanti and Lopi Heritage Bay pellet stoves and inserts. For earlier Avalon 900 and
Lopi FoxFire and 400 models, refer to the 1994 Pellet Troubleshooting Guide.
Who Should Use this Guide
This guide was developed for service personnel and those selling Travis Industries products. Because of the inherent
danger involved with heating appliances, all work must be done by qualified personnel only. The heater must be
installed in accordance with the owner's manual and all local building codes. Bring an owner's manual for the heater
being serviced in case any installation or maintenance questions arise.
Precautions
This heater becomes very hot during operation - use care to prevent burns or property damage while
servicing.
Make sure the appliance is unplugged before conducting service or replacing a component. Some
procedures may require the heater to be plugged in while diagnosing the problem. In these cases, use
caution to prevent arcing or electrical shocks.
Before conducting service, lay down a drop cloth to prevent flyash and other debris from staining the
carpet or other flooring. On inserts, lay down a piece of cardboard on the hearth to prevent scratches.
How to Use this Service Guide
This guide uses several sections to address pellet stove service. The flowchart section (section 1) details the
troubleshooting process from start to finish. Section 2 addresses each troubleshooting step individually (if you know
the problem, you may wish to go directly to the troubleshooting step). Section 3 is dedicated to removal and
replacement instructions. Section 4 contains technical specifications.
When this troubleshooting guide refers to a side or
direction, use the diagram to the right to determine
direction.
When this troubleshooting guide refers to a electrical
connectors, use the following diagram to determine the
type of connector.
¥Nutdrivers, open end & socket wrenches in 1/4", 5/16", 11/32", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 7/8", 1"
¥Door Tool (1/4Ó Allen Wrench)
¥Multimeter
¥Standard and Phillips-head Screwdrivers
¥Wire with a male quick-connect attached to each end (called a jumper wire)
Hot Wire
¥Power cord with female quick-connects attached to the hot and common wires (called a hot wire)
¥Ash Vacuum (or shop vacuum with drywall filter) and bottle brush for cleaning the stove
¥Lock Ties (for keeping all wires from contacting hot portions of the stove)
¥Cleaner, paper towels, drop cloth, cardboard & other supplies to clean any flyash entering home.
¥Convection Blower
¥Heater Fuses (5 Amp Quick - 1/4" x 1-1/4")
¥Circuit Board Fuses (6 Amp 5 mm x 20 mm)
¥Burn Pot
¥Door Gasket Kit (includes cement)
¥Igniter
¥Flow Switch
3 Bags of High-Quality Pellets
Many pellet stove problems are due to poor quality pellets. Burning high quality pellets on-site often convinces the
pellet heater owner to switch to a higher quality fuel.
Silicone Sealant
RTV 500° Silicone must be used to seal the joints between vent sections.
Unfortunately, many service calls provide only a temporary solution. Unless the true problem is found, conducting
service may only provide a slight performance increase. Often, when a part is exchanged with a new part, the stove's
performance will improve enough to operate at a low performance level. For example, if you install a new exhaust
blower you may improve performance enough to let the stove burn. But unless you clean the stove and show the
customer how to maintain a clean stove, you will not fix the real problem. This stove with a "false fix" may work for
several months, only to fail again. To eliminate false fixes and help make correct diagnosis, keep in mind these
principles when diagnosing pellet stoves:
Treat the Pellet Stove as an Entire System
Air leaking through the door seal will decrease performance; a dirty stove will decrease performance; poor pellets will
decrease performance: before you leave a service call, make sure all aspects of the pellet stove are working correctly.
Just because you fixed a door leak does not mean that you should not check for flyash buildup.
Test Components Individually
Before replacing a component, test it against a new component. This is especially important for blowers and auger
motors. Simply plug them in directly to a hotwire and compare performance.
Test the Stove Thoroughly
Before leaving a customer's home, make sure to operate the stove for at least one-half hour. Use the time to clean up
or finish paperwork. Furthermore, test the stove on various burn rates to ensure proper operation.
Know the Stove's Performance Level
Become familiar with how a brand new stove performs. Check the flame quality (on high and low), heat output, blower
noise, blower cfm, air wash, normal ash buildup, and door seal. Everything should be noted. With a new stove as a
benchmark, you can test a customer's stove for relative performance.
The 5 Most Common Problems
Before leaving a service call, make sure the following items have been checked:
Most components inside Travis Industry stoves are warranted. To receive credit for a component covered on the
warranty, follow the PRA ( P roduct R eturn A uthorization) procedure below:
1) Fill out a PRA form (white, pink, & gold carbon paper form) - keep the gold copy for your records.
2) Send the form, along with the component, to Travis Industries, Attn: PRA Returns, 15530 Woodinville Redmond
Road, Suite # 300, Woodinville, WA 98072.
3) When it is tested defective, you will receive full credit.
4) Order a new component (if needed to replace existing stock).
NOTE:
The items must be defective and under warranty to receive credit. If the component is tested and found to be
workable, or if it is not under warranty, it will be returned to you at your expense. The items must be accompanied by a
PRA form with all the information completed.
See ÒCircuit Board FaultyÓ on page 2-10 for details
on diagnosing and replacing the circuit board.
Yes
Auger Circuit Faulty
See ÒAuger Circuit FaultyÓ on page 2-14 for
details on diagnosing and fixing auger circuits.
Page 9
Stove Burns Poorly
A poorly burning stove will have a dark, sooty flame.
Often the burnpot will fill up with smoldering pellets.
Flowcharts1 - 3
Look for dark “clinkers” inside
the burnpot.
Air leaks are the most over-looked
area when troubleshooting pellet
stoves.
Check for blockage where the flue turns
upwards and at the cap.
Is
Burnpot
Clean?
Yes
Air Leaking
into the
Firebox?
No
Has
Stove Been
Cleaned?
Yes
Is Vent
Blocked?
No
No
Yes
No
Yes
Clean the Burnpot
See ÒClinkersÓ on page 2-1 for
details on what causes clinkers.
Check for Air Leaks
See ÒAir LeaksÓ on page 2-6 for details
on diagnosing and fixing air leaks.
Clean the Stove
See ÒFirebox and Exhaust System
CleaningÓ on page 2-2 for details on
cleaning the stove.
Clean the Flue
See ÒBlocked VentÓ on page 2-5 for details
on diagnosing and fixing blocked flues.
The vent may have a maximum of two 90°
elbows, must not be higher than 35’, must not
run horizontally more than 10’, and in some
cases, must be 4” in diameter.
Make sure the air inlet cap is not blocked
and the flex tube is not crushed.
The restrictor is only for stoves that
over-draft .
The convection air blows
heated air above the door.
Yes
Does
Convection
Blower Come
On?
No
Is
Stove up to
Temperature?
Yes
Is
Convection
Blower
Faulty?
No
Convection Circuit is Faulty
See ÒConvection Blower Circuit FaultyÓ on page
2-18 for details on the convection blower circuit.
No
Yes
This is Normal
The fan will come on once the stove is hot
(5 to 15 minutes after start-up).
Replace the Convection Blower
See ÒFaulty Convection BlowerÓ on page 2-17
for details on the convection blower.
Look for dark “clinkers” inside
the burnpot.
To check draft, inspect the pellets
inside the burnpot while on “Low”. If
un-burned pellets jump out of the
burnpot, you may wish to adjust the
restrictor (watch for several
minutes).
Are Heat
Exchangers
Clean?
Yes
Is Burnpot
Clean?
Yes
Is Vent
Drafting Too
Fast?
No
Is Heating Need too Large?
This heater produces approximately 20,000 BTUÕs on ÒHIGHÓ - it may not be
suitable for all home heating needs. Check the homeÕs size, insulation level
and the outside temperature to verify that 20,000 BTUÕs per hour is adequate.
Heater location may also be a consideration: heaters located in a corner or
one side of a room may not distribute heat to other rooms.
The door seal can be checked by
closing the door on a piece of
paper. If the paper slides out
easily, the door seal is not tight
enough.
The lower airwash gap, located
next to the burnpot, may
become plugged with ash. Look
for ash piling up in the area
directly behind the glass on the
bottom.
Is
Burnpot
Clean?
Yes
Is Door
Gasket
Leaking?
No
Is
Airwash Gap
Plugged?
No
a
r
n
B
d
A
a
r
n
B
d
B
Try a Different Brand of Pellets
Poor quality pellets may lead to dirty glass. Try a new brand of pellets
and monitor glass cleanliness. See ÒPellet QualityÓ on page 2-15 for
If the flames are coming only from the sides,
or are orange and black, turn the stove off
and check for clinkers. Clinkers are
hardened clumps that form over the air
holes inside the firepot.
The most likely causes are:
¥Poor pellet quality
¥The door or glass has an air leak
¥The stove or vent requires cleaning
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service.
Cleaning the Firepot
To clean the firepot, open the door (see
page 23) and knock away any debris on the
firepot with a screwdriver. If severely
clogged, remove the firepot to gain better
access. Use a screwdriver, or other tool, to
fully dislodge any clinkers on the firepot.
Ash buildup is the leading cause of poor performance. Excessive buildup can even lead to stove failure. Regular
cleaning is required to keep pellet stoves operating. Whenever service is conducted, consider cleaning the stove in
front of the homeowner to display how this process is conducted. The four sections of stove cleaning, and the
appropriate cleaning frequency are displayed below:
SectionFrequency
Clean the FireboxTwice a Week Ð or Every 10 Bags
Clean the Vertical Exhaust DuctOnce a Year Ð or Every 2 Tons
Clean the Horizontal Exhaust DuctOnce a Year Ð or Every 2 Tons
Clean the Exhaust Box and Exhaust BlowerOnce a Year Ð or Every 2 Tons
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service.
A shop vacuum with a drywall filter (available at most hardware stores) will remove flyash well. The drywall
filter prevents the fine ash particles from entering the air.
Clean the Firebox
Swing the side ash trap door up.Lift it up and away from the firebox.
Clean the blower blades, blower housing,
and exhaust box. You may wish to use a
d
vacuum to pull ash out of the vent system.
Gasket
Exhaust
Box
Blower
Housing
Page 19
Troubleshooting Steps2 - 5
Blocked Vent
Flyash that has been expelled by the exhaust blower will accumulate in the vent sections. Check the locations shown
below for flyash buildup, and, if necessary, clean the entire vent system.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service.
Make sure the cap is free of debris
(especially if it has a screen that could
become blocked).
Check the vent sections for creosote
accumulation (indicating a poorly burning
stove). Accumulation over 1/4Ó must be
removed.
Flyash will deposit along
sections that are horizontal.
On vertically vented systems, the dirtiest
portion is often the point where the vent turns
upwards (i.e. the "Tee"). Fortunately, the "Tee"
has a built-in clean out cover. Remove the
cover and vacuum out. While open, use a
flashlight to look up the pellet vent to check for
build-up.
Restrictor Adjustment
In some cases the vent will produce too much draft for the stove. This leads to an inefficient burn, and in some cases,
the flame going out. Excessive draft typically happens in tall vertical installations or very short horizontal installations.
The factory restrictor setting is wide open.
When to Adjust the Restrictor
¥If un-burned pellets are expelled from the firepot often (make sure they are un-burned, not just cylindrical
embers), the restrictor needs adjustment.
¥If on LOW the pellets burn too quickly and the flame goes out, the restrictor needs adjustment.
How to Adjust the Restrictor
NOTE: You will not notice much change in the flame after
Use these index marks to gauge
restrictor movement. Move the restrictor
c
one position, then inspect the stoveÕs
performance over a long period of time.
b
Turn this bolt counter-clockwise to
push the restrictor in, increasing
restriction.
adjusting the restrictor. Check stove performance over a
long period of time.
Air Inlet
Restrictor
7/16" Wrench
WARNING: The stove must be
completely cool and unplugged
Air leaks can come from the door or ash pan. Follow the directions below to diagnose and fix any air leaks.
Checking the Door Seal
Close the door on a dollar bill (or a piece of paper).
Then try pulling the bill out. If it comes out easily,
the door gasket is not forming a seal. Repeat this
process around the perimeter of the door to
ensure a complete seal. If the seal is inadequate,
check the door gasket. If it is flattened, or does not
protrude at least 3/16" from the door frame, replace
the door gasket. If the gasket is adequate the door
will require adjustment.
To check the glass seal, press on each panel of
glass. If the glass moves easily, the glass gasket
has become displaced or damaged. To fix the
glass seal, disassemble the door and re-assemble,
ensuring the glass gasket is properly placed.
Replacing the Door Gasket
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service.
Use only Travis Industries gasket when replacing the door gasket.
1Remove the decorative trim above the door by opening the hopper and removing the two screws holding
it in place (use a phillips-head screwdriver).
2Remove the door by unlatching it, opening it wide open and lifting it straight up off the hinge mounts. You
may need to swing the door back and forth to loosen the hinge pins.
3Place the door on a flat, soft surface with the inside of the door facing upwards (do not scratch the gold).
Find the beginning of the gasket, usually near a corner, and pull it away from the door assembly. Prepare
the surface for the new gasket by scraping off any large pieces of debris with a flat-head screwdriver,
scraper, or wire brush. Remove any loose particles.
4Apply a liberal amount of the gasket cement around the area where the new gasket will lie.
5Apply the new gasket onto the gasket cement. Start in the bottom corner near the hinge. Be careful not
to bunch or stretch the gasket. Make sure the corners lie flat. The gasket is cut to fit the door - there
should be little or no excess length (at most 3Ó).
Start the gasket in the bottom
corner near the hinge.
Make sure the gasket is flat around
the corners.
New Gasket
NOTE: Do not bunch or
stretch the gasket - this will
make the gasket uneven, or
too thin - leading to air leaks.
Gasket Cement
6Wipe any excess adhesive off all free surfaces and let the adhesive set about 30 minutes.
7Re-attach the door assembly and decorative trim Close the hopper lid.
The door latch plate and hinge plate are adjustable, allowing the door to be pulled in closer to the stove. These plates
have notches that line up with dimples on the side of the stove. To adjust the door, loosen both plates and move
them back 1/16". Use the notch and dimple to ensure correct alignment (so the door does not tilt up or down). Recheck the door seal after each adjustment. If you notice the door is tight against one side, but loose against the other,
tighten only the side that is loose.
HINT:
Open the hopper and
look down at the door
from above. Make sure
the door is properly
aligned and is evenly
spaced away from the
face of the heater.
Dimple & Notch
(used for
alignment)
Hinge
Adjustment
Door
Plate
7/16Ó
Socket
e
Loosen these bolts and slide the hinge
adjustment plate back approximately 1/16Ó.
Then re-tighten the bolts.
Open the hopper lid and remove the two
a
screws holding the side doors in place.
Dimple & Notch
(used for
alignment)
d
Door
Phillips
Screwdriver
Swing the side
panels open.
b
Open the door.
c
Loosen these bolts and slide the
door latch adjustment plate back
approximately 1/16Ó. Then retighten the bolts.
The trap door above the ash pan seals air from entering the firebox. Check the items below to ensure the trap door is
sealing.
b
Clean the trap door and
underside of firebox. Slide
the trap door back in place.
Trap
Door
a
Pull the trap door out. Carefully
inspect it to make sure it is not
warped.
The trap door is pressed against the firebox with
this pressure plate. If the trap door does not
press firmly against the firebox, tighten the four
c
nuts on the pressure plate appropriately.
Air Inlet Blocked
In rare cases the air inlet becomes blocked. Snow or debris can clog the opening. The flexible aluminum duct can be
flattened.
To verify the air inlet is functional, remove the air inlet hose from the stove. If stove performance improves dramatically,
the air inlet may be restricted or blocked.
The exhaust blower pulls air through the air inlet, burnpot, and exhaust ducts. If these channels are blocked or
restricted, performance will decrease. Therefore, before checking the exhaust blower, make sure the stove is clean.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
The only way to check the exhaust blower is to remove it from the stove, hotwire it, and compare it to a new exhaust
blower. See the directions below.
Use a hot-wire to check blower performance (you should do this outside
to prevent stray flyash from entering the home).
Be careful to not touch the
impeller.
Gauge the airflow
leaving the blower.
Fuse Blown
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
There are two fuses on the
pellet stove. An in-line
fuse is found at the rear,
near the power cord.
A circuit board fuse is
found on the back of the
circuit board. See the
section ÒCircuit Board
FaultyÓ for details.
The fuse is located at the back of the stove near the location
where the power cord connects. There are two different
types of fuse holders:
Fuse (part # 93-0695)
Fuse Holder
This type unscrews with your fingers. Press in slightly while
turning the fuse holder counter-clockwise to release.
Small Standard
Screwdriver
Use a small standard screwdriver for this type. Press in slightly
while turning the fuse counter-clockwise to release.
Blown fuses will have a break in the element. In
rare cases the fuse may have a loose cap replace the fuse if uncertain.
The circuit board is not serviceable (with the exception of the circuit board fuse Ð see below). Test this component by
replacing it and checking operation of the stove.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
Access the back of the circuit board.
a
On stoves, open the right side panel. On
inserts, remove the surround panel trim, the top
panel, and right side panel.
b
Check the circuit board fuse. If the element inside
the fuse is broken, replace it and check operation
(in rare cases the fuse cap detaches from the
element - replace the fuse if uncertain).
Circuit Board Fuse
(part # 93005019)
Detach the wiring harness from
c
the circuit board.
Pinch these
tabs to remove
the wiring
harness.
Attach the wiring harness to
the new circuit board and test
d
operation.
If using a thermostat, detach the thermostat wires.
For more details on circuit board operation, see ÒCircuit BoardÓ in the technical specifications section of this guide.
During the start-up sequence the igniter receives electricity for 10 minutes under normal circumstances. To check the
igniter, access the right side of the stove and connect a hot wire to the two igniter leads.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
Locate the two wires leading from the igniter (they are white fiberglass
a
sheathed wires - you may need to cut the lock ties holding them in place replace the lock ties after service).
Disconnect the
b
leads and attach
to a hot wire.
Open the door and remove the burnpot.
c
Look into the area behind the
d
burnpot. Within two to three minutes
of hot wiring the igniter, you should
see it start to glow red. If it does not,
the igniter is faulty.
If the igniter does glow red, the igniter is functional. Next, check the wires leading to the igniter.
Locate the two quick-connects leading from the wiring harness to the igniter
a
(one has a black wire, one has a pair of white wires).
Set the stove to "MANUAL" and press the
"MANUAL START" button. Watch the
multimeter to see if it displays 120 Volts. If
it does not, the wires are damaged or the
c
circuit board is not providing electricity to
the igniter.
Several different factors can cause the pellets inside the auger to compress and jam the auger. Pellets, left over the
summer, can absorb water, expand, and jam the auger. Pellets piling up inside the burnpot can fill the drop tube and
then jam the auger. Foreign objects left in the hopper can jam the auger. To remove the auger flight inspection plate
and clear any items jamming the auger, follow the directions below.
conducting the following steps.
nserts, remove the hopper cover before
Remove all pellets in the hopper.
a
Remove the silicone shown here (the silicone
b
shown in gray need not be removed).
Remove any debris and pellets from the auger flight. If the auger had been jammed,
e
you would probably notice pellets lodged firmly between the auger flights.
Bearing
Cover
Unscrew the six screws holding the auger flight
c
inspection cover in place.
5/16" Nutdriver
Remove the bearing cover and auger flight
d
inspection plate.
Auger Flight
Inspection Plate
Before re-assembly, you may wish to re-start the stove and verify the auger turns. Make sure to
f
apply high-temperature silicone to the bearing cover (see step ÒbÓ above), this keeps pellet fines
from contacting the upper auger flight.
The auger motor can be checked while it is still installed inside the stove. Follow the directions below to check the
auger motor.
Unplug the stove to prevent electrical shock.
Plug in the hotwire and watch to see if the
b
auger turns. NOTE: watch the auger for a
couple minutes to verify that it is turning
over repeatedly Ð a jammed auger may
turn slightly.
Unplug the stove. Disconnect the
a
auger motor leads. Attach a hotwire to
the auger motor (orientation does not
matter).
If the auger does not turn over, remove the auger
c
motor, attach a hotwire, and check the output shaft.
If the auger motor is working correctly, the auger may have been incorrectly connected to the auger shaft. Use the
illustration below to verify the auger motor connection.
Make sure the lock screw goes
through the auger shaft and
contacts the dimple on the output
Hopper
Auger Flight
Inspection Cover
Lower
Auger
Bushing
Auger
Flight
Auger
Shaft
Drive Collar
Lock Screw
Motor
Stop
3/16" Allen
Auger
Motor
shaft of the auger motor.
Lock Screw
Auger Shaft
NOTE:
If the output shaft on the auger motor does
not light up with the auger shaft hole, you
may hotwire the auger motor to turn the shaft
until it lines up.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
Hopper Snap Disk
The auger circuit consists of the
auger motor, flow switch, hopper
snap disk, and the wiring
between. If the auger motor is not
receiving electricity during normal
operation, you should check the
auger circuit for malfunctions. The
first step is to check the wiring.
Make sure no wires have been
pulled loose, severed, or melted.
Check the four red wires leading
to the hopper snap disk and flow
switch. Check the red and white
wires leading to the auger motor.
Disconnect each quick-connect
and re-connect, making sure full
contact is made.
Flow Switch
Auger Motor
Next, check the flow switch and hopper snap disk. These safety components were designed to disable the auger
motor in the event of a malfunction. The hopper snap disk disables the circuit if the hopper becomes too hot. The
flow switch disables the circuit if the vent becomes blocked. Follow the directions below to test the flow switch.
a
Unplug
the
stove.
Disconnect the
b
two wires leading
to the flow switch.
Back of
Flow Switch
Attach a jumper
c
wire to the two
wires removed.
Turn the stove on and test operation. If
d
the stove still does not work, replace the
wires and test the hopper snap disk (see
the directions below). If the stove does
work, the flow switch is not working.
Make sure the vacuum hose is attached
at both ends and in good shape.
Replace the flow switch if the hose is
correct.
Vacuum
Hose
Follow the directions below to test the hopper snap disk.
Unplug
a
the
stove.
Hopper Snap Disk
(on the right side of the
hopper near the top)
b
Disconnect the
two wires leading
to the hopper
snap disk.
Attach a jumper
c
wire to the two
wires removed.
Turn the stove on and test operation. If
d
the stove works normally, the hopper
snap disk is malfunctioning and should
be replaced. If the stove still does not
work, see the section for testing the
circuit. board.
CONTINUITY
If you do wish to test
the snap disk, heat the
back side of the snap
disk with a lighter. It
should show continuity
until it is warmed to
200¡ (3 to 10 seconds
under a lighter) - you
can also listen for a
ÒclickÓ.
With the surge in popularity of pellet heaters came the tremendous increase in pellet demand. Because pellets are
made from wood by-products, pellet manufacturing is dependent upon the supply of these by-products and the
quality found therein. Unfortunately, this surge in pellet manufacturing has led to a decline in the quality of the raw
materials used to produce the pellets. Ideally, pellets should have a very low moisture, ash, dirt, and salt content.
Some pellets do not. Pellets should have a consistent diameter of 1/4", 5/16", or 7 mm. Pellets should also be no
longer than 1 1/2" long. Some pellets are longer. There is no real pellet monitoring agency, so you must monitor
pellet quality yourself. Pellets left outside in damp conditions may absorb water, decreasing performance. Poor
pellets may lead to the symptoms listed below.
oor quality pellets may
lead to clinkers in the
firepot (look for dark
spots on the burn grate
while the stove is
burning)
oor quality pellets may
lead to dirty glass,
especially if it is black
and sooty
Poor quality pellets
may lead to
excessive flyash,
making the stove
require more
frequent cleaning
oor quality
pellets may
lead to the
auger jamming
frequently
Recommendation:
Bring 3 bags of pellets that you have tested and are high quality. Let the customer burn the pellets and check for
these signs of bad pellets: clinkers develop in the air holes on the bottom of the firepot; the auger jams for no apparent
reason, and when the hopper is cleaned out, the auger runs again; there is more than one-half cup of sawdust in the
bottom of the bag of pellets; or, the pellets don't burn well on a low burn rate. It is best to check one brand of pellets
versus another to see the difference first-hand. The Association of Pellet Fuel Manufacturers has set the following
standards for pellets: density of at least 40 lbs. per cubic foot; 1/4" to 5/16" diameter; length no greater than 1 1/2";
8200 BTU's/lb.; moisture under 8% by weight; ash under 1% by weight; and, salt under 300 parts per million.
Before conducting a service call for a
noisy stove, try to quantify the amount
of sound coming from the stove.
Pellet stoves have several
components with moving parts that will
create noise. You may wish to go over
the normal operating sounds with the
customer before conducting a service
call.
The flow of exhaust gases
may create a low-pitched
hum. This sound will
change as the FEED RATE
is altered.
Heat Exchanger Tubes
You may hear the heated air
being forced through these
tubes by the convection fan.
Firepot
As pellets are fed into the
firepot, a light clicking
sound may be heard.
Auger Motor
When feeding pellets, you
may hear the intermittent
buzz of this motor running.
Covection Fan
The modern high efficiency
fan may produce a low
hum, particularly on
"HIGH". This sound will
change as the FAN dial is
turned.
Diagnosing Stove Noises
Noise may be created by several
factors. Moving components (blowers
or auger motors) may create noise or a
vibration that leads to a rattle. The
process of eliminating a noise is to
identify which component is creating
the noise and either securing it better,
placing a piece of gasket to dampen
the rattle, or replacing the component.
Use the illustrations to the right to help
diagnose stove noises.
Listen carefully for screws,
bolts, or nuts that have
become loose. If they are not
tight, rattling may occur.
If a blower is creating noise, try
loosening its connection, realigning the blower (& gasket),
and re-tightening the connection.
Any vibration can lead to noise.
The hearth may ampify any vibration
on the stove, especially on uneven or
irregular hearth surfaces. If you hear
any noise from this area, try attaching
gasket tape to the bottom corners of
the pedestal.
Inserts
is moving, remove the pellets and check
the auger flight to see if anything is
caught.
Make sure the top panel is not rattling against the facing. Use
gasket tape to dampen any sound, if necessary.
Check the base of the insert. Sometimes, especially
on irregular shaped hearths, the hearth can transmit
sound from the insert. Wedge a small piece of gasket
tape under the insert to eliminate the sound.
Make sure the double-back tape holds the
trim firmly against the surround panels.
occurs only when the auger
If the auger motor "clicks" , check to
see if it is knocking against the motor
stop. There are two rubber bumpers
built into the motor stop designed to
stop this noise - make sure they are
in place.
On stoves, make sure
the side panels are
attached.
Make sure nothing has
fallen into the convection
blower.
The convection blower pushes air through the heat exchanger tubes located along the top of the firebox, transferring
heat from the firebox to the room. It also performs a necessary cooling function for internal components*. To check
the convection blower, follow the steps below.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
Unplug the
a
stove.
d
Check for air blowing out of the
heat exchanger tubes.
Air Comes Out - Blower is okay,
check the convection blower
circuit.
Air Does Not Come Out - Blower
is faulty. Go to step ÒeÓ.
Disconnect the two
b
wires leading to the
convection blower.
Convection Blower
Attach a a hotwire
c
to the convection
blower.
Convection Blower
(shown here removed)
With the blower unplugged, check
e
the inside of the squirrel cage
thoroughly. Make sure the squirrel
cage turns. Debris or pellets can
jam the blower. If nothing is found,
replace the blower.
* If the convection blower does not work, the stove may overheat, causing the hopper snap disk to disable the auger.
Replace the convection blower if it does not work correctly Ð see the instructions on page 3-13.
The convection blower is controlled directly by the circuit board. . Follow the directions below to check the convection
blower circuit.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
Start the stove and let it
a
reach normal operating
temperature (10 to 15
minutes).
Attach the multimeter leads, set to voltage AC, to the
b
two posts on the convection blower (there is enough
bare metal on the post to get a good reading).
VOLTS
AC
Convection Blower
Convection Blower
(shown removed)
Convection Blower Wires
(Brown & White)
The voltage should read approximately 70 volts on low
c
blower speed, approximately 115 volts on high blower
speed.
If No Voltage is Detected
Check the brown and white wires leading to the blower for
breaks or damage. Replace the wiring harness if damage is
found. Othewise, the circuit board (or system snap disk) is
faulty. Replace these components and re-test the stove.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service.
Trim Removal
Top
Panel
Pull the bottom of the trim outwards slightly to peel it
away from the double-back tape holding it in place.
Replace the double-back tape after installing the trim this keeps the trim from rattling or flaring at the bottom.
Top Panel Removal
Lift the top panel upwards off the
joggle clips to remove.
NOTE: When installed, the panels must be 3/8Ó off
the fireplace face.
Double-Back Tape
Side Panel Removal
Each side panel has two slots that accept clips attached to
the sides of the insert. Lift the panels up and away from
the insert.
Slot
Tab
Wiring Harness
The wiring harness is attached to the circuit board, which is
attached to the right side panel. You may wish to disconnect
the wiring harness
Back Side of Circuit Board
(attached to right side
panel)
Remove the door and place it face down on a soft surface. To disassemble the door, follow the directions below.
· Remove the door from the stove (see page 3-3) and place it face down on a soft surface.
· Peel the door gasket away from the door, noting how it is positioned. Remove the upper and lower airwash brackets
(see the illustration below).
11/32" Nutdriver
Airwash
Brackets
Door Gasket (note
how it loops in the
bottom corners)
· The three pieces of glass are held in place with eight glass clips. Remove the glass clips to access the glass.
· Before replacing the glass, make sure the
glass gasket is in place, forming a seal
around the perimeter of the glass. Place
the center glass first. Place the side glass
up against the center glass, making sure
Side Glass
(note gasket on
three sides)
the center piece is centered in the door
frame. Re-attach the glass clips from the
center outwards. Replace the airwash
brackets and door gasket (see page 2-6).
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
Make sure no wires contact the exhaust box or other high-temperature surface. Furthermore, make sure
no wires come near the auger lock screw or convection blower intake (the wires may become snagged in
these areas). Use lock-ties to secure the wiring harness away from these areas where they may become
damaged.
1For stoves, open the both side panels (see page 3-1). For inserts, remove the surround panels (see page
3-2).
2The wiring harness connects to every electrical component inside the stove. If the wiring harness does
require removal, disconnect all of the wiring and replace. If only one wire is damaged, you may wish to
attach a new wire to replace it (use the appropriate connectors and replacement wire). After installing the
wires, make sure to lock-tie any loose wiring to prevent contact with hot or moving components.
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
1For stoves, open the left side panel (see
page 3-1). For inserts, remove the
surround panels and pull the insert out to
access the left side (see page 3-2).
2The system snap disk is located on the
exhaust duct, just in front of the exhaust
blower.
3Remove the snap disk following the
directions below.
There are two types of system snap disks. Both operate in the same manner. If replacing the snap
disk, the ceramic snap disk should be used (if the phenolic type failed, Travis will replace free of
charge).
Phenolic (older type)Ceramic (newer type)
Disconnect the wires leading to the snap disk. Some models use wiring harnesses with quickconnects. When replacing the snap disk, use the connector wires included with the replacement
system snap disks (discard the wires for wiring harness with ring connectors).
Make sure the stove has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before conducting service. Unplug the
stove to prevent electrical shock.
1For stoves, remove the rear panel (see page 3-1). For inserts, remove the surround panels and pull the
insert out to access the rear (see page 3-2).
2Disconnect the two wires leading to the auger motor. Unscrew the lock screw (see the illustration below).
With the lock screw removed, the auger will slide out.
When re-installing, make sure the
lock screw goes through the auger
Hopper
Auger
Flight
Drive
Collar
Lock Screw
3/16" Allen
shaft and contacts the dimple on the
output shaft of the auger motor.
Lock Screw
Output Shaft
Auger Flight
Inspection Cover
Lower
Auger
Bushing
Auger
Shaft
Auger Shaft
Motor
Stop
Auger
Motor
NOTE:
If the lock screw is not accessible, remove the two
nuts on the motor stop (they are accessed from the
right side). With the motor stop removed, the auger
motor, with auger flight attached, can be rotated to
better access the lock screw.
NOTE:
If the output shaft on the auger motor
does not light up with the auger shaft
hole, you may hotwire the auger motor to
turn the shaft until it lines up.