Travis Industries Flex-95 Owner's Manual

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OWNER'S MANUAL

PREPARATION, INSTALLATION, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE

KEEP THIS MANUAL

November, 1992

¥ Residential Freestanding Stove

Masonry Fireplace Insert

Model Flex-95

(E.P.A. Phase II Approved)

Tested to U.L. 127, U.L. 1482, U.L. 907 Standards by:

Warnock Hersey Professional Services, LTD

10850 117th Place N.E. Kirkland, WA 98033

Manufactured by:

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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

¥ VIEWING DOOR MUST BE CLOSED AND

LATCHED DURING OPERATION.

¥ THE APPLIANCE IS DESIGNED AND

APPROVED FOR BURNING OF WOOD ONLY. THE BURNING OF ANY TYPE FUEL OTHER THAN WOOD WILL VOID ALL WARRANTIES AND SAFETY LISTING OF THE APPLIANCE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BURN ANY OTHER FUEL THAN SPECIFIED IN THIS MANUAL.

¥ THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE PROPERLY

INSTALLED IN ORDER TO PREVENT THE POSSIBILITY OF A HOUSE FIRE. FOR YOUR SAFETY THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS MUST BE STRICTLY ADHERED TO. DO NOT USE MAKESHIFT METHODS OR COMPROMISE IN INSTALLATION.

¥ THE FLUE SYSTEM SHOULD BE CHECKED

TWICE A YEAR MINIMUM FOR ANY BUILDUP OF SOOT OR CREOSOTE.

¥ CONTACT YOUR LOCAL BUILDING

OFFICIALS TO OBTAIN A PERMIT AND INFORMATION ON ANY INSTALLATION RESTRICTIONS OR INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA. ALSO, NOTIFY YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY THAT YOU ARE INSTALLING YOUR WARNOCK HERSEY LISTED STOVE OR INSERT.

¥ GASOLINE OR OTHER FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS

MUST NEVER BE USED TO START THE FIRE OR "FRESHEN-UP" THE FIRE. DO NOT STORE OR USE GASOLINE OR OTHER FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS IN THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE.

¥ THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE CONNECTED TO

A LISTED HIGH TEMPERATURE RESIDENTIAL TYPE CHIMNEY OR AN APPROVED MASONRY CHIMNEY WITH A STANDARD CLAY, TILE, OR STAINLESS STEEL LINER.

¥ NEVER BLOCK FREE AIRFLOW THROUGH

OPEN VENTS.

¥ ASHES MUST BE DISPOSED OF IN A METAL

CONTAINER WITH A TIGHT FITTING LID, AND PLACED ON A NON-COMBUSTIBLE SURFACE BEFORE FINAL DISPOSAL.

¥ NEVER TRY TO REPAIR OR REPLACE ANY

PART OF THE APPLIANCE UNLESS INSTRUCTIONS ARE GIVEN IN THIS MANUAL. ALL OTHER WORK SHOULD BE DONE BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN.

¥ DO NOT MAKE ANY CHANGES OR

MODIFICATIONS TO THE APPLIANCE OR AN EXISTING MASONRY FIREPLACE OR CHIMNEY TO INSTALL THIS APPLIANCE.

¥ WAIT UNTIL THE APPLIANCE HAS COOLED

BEFORE CARRYING OUT MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES.

¥ TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. GRANTS NO

WARRANTY, IMPLIED OR STATED, FOR THE INSTALLATION OR MAINTENANCE OF YOUR APPLIANCE, AND ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGE(S).

¥ ALWAYS FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN

THE OWNER'S MANUAL.

¥ KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR LATER USE.

¥ DO NOT INSTALL IN A SLEEPING ROOM

WHEN INSTALLING IN A MOBILE HOME.

¥ DO NOT CONNECT THIS APPLIANCE TO

ANY CHIMNEY SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

¥ KEEP FURNITURE, DRAPES, CURTAINS,

WOOD, PAPER AND OTHER COMBUSTIBLES A MINIMUM OF 36" AWAY FROM THE APPLIANCE.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Page

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

INTRODUCTION...................................................................................................................................... 1

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS........................................................................................................................... 2

FEATURES AND SPECIFICATIONS ............................................................................................................ 4

CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS ................................................................................................. 5

The 3-Foot, 2-Foot, 10-Foot Rule .......................................................................................................... 5

Factory-Built Chimneys ...................................................................................................................... 6

Determining the Distance Between the Chimney and Combustibles.............................................................. 6

Masonry Chimneys............................................................................................................................ 7

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION

FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT ................................................................................................... 8

PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION .......................................................................................................... 12

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS .................................................................................... 13

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION ............................................................................................................... 15

Standard Ceiling Installation................................................................................................................ 15

Cathedral Ceiling Installation ............................................................................................................... 16

Horizontal Installation Into Factory-Built Chimney.................................................................................... 17

Hearth Stove Installation Using a Positive Connection.............................................................................. 18

Hearth Stove Installation Using a Direct Connection................................................................................. 20

Hearth Stove Installation Using a Horizontal Connection ........................................................................... 22

INSERT INSTALLATION

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT ............................................................................................................... 24

PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION .......................................................................................................... 31

FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS ..................................................................................................... 32

MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION ........................................................................................... 34

Installation Using a Direct Connection ................................................................................................... 34

Installation Using a Positive Connection ................................................................................................ 36

Installation Using a Face Seal Connection.............................................................................................. 38

INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE ................................................................................... 39

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE................................................................................................................ 41

Location and Use of Controls............................................................................................................... 41

Burning Procedure............................................................................................................................. 42

Maintaining Catalytic Light-Off............................................................................................................. 43

Burning Your Appliance Efficiently........................................................................................................ 44

Daily Use of Your Appliance................................................................................................................. 44

Wood .............................................................................................................................................. 45

Seasoning Wood............................................................................................................................... 46

Storing Wood.................................................................................................................................... 48

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

CARE AND MAINTENANCE ....................................................................................................................... 51

Maintenance Schedule....................................................................................................................... 51

Maintenance Instructions ................................................................................................................... 51

BEFORE CALLING FOR SERVICE

BEFORE CALLING FOR SERVICE .............................................................................................................. 55

REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

Replacement Parts............................................................................................................................ 56

Removal Instructions......................................................................................................................... 56

5-YEAR WARRANTY ................................................................................................................................ 63

SAFETY LABEL ...................................................................................................................................... 64

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FEATURES AND SPECIFICATIONS

* EPA Phase II Approved

CONVENIENT

* Firebox Capacity of 2.9 cu. ft.

* 1/4 and 5/16" Steel Plate Construction

HIGH HEAT OUTPUT

* Long Burn time - Up to 12 Hours

VERSATILE

* Heavy Duty Firebrick Lining

* Conveniently Located Single Push-Pull

CLOSE CLEARANCES

Combustion Air Control

* 22" Log Length Capacity

DURABLE

Heating Capacity

Freestanding Stove or Extended Insert................................ 1,500 to 2,500 sq. ft.

Flush Insert or Bay Window Insert ......................................... 1,200 to 2,100 sq. ft.

Maximum B.T.U.'s/hr ...................................................................... 74,000 (Cord Wood)

Overall Efficiency ............................................................................ 78.1 % (Oregon Method)

Emissions grams/hr........................................................................ 4.1 (EPA Method)

Maximum Burning Time (Hours).................................................. 12

Flue Opening Diameter ................................................................ 8 in.

Height from floor to top of stove on:

Steel Legs.................................................................................. 29 3/4 in.

Brass Legs ................................................................................. 31 1/4 in.

Cast Legs ................................................................................... 31 1/4 in.

Pedestal...................................................................................... 35 in.

Overall Width ................................................................................... 29 7/8 in.

Overall Depth................................................................................... 23 3/4 in. (Not Including Ashlip)

Weight............................................................................................... 516 lbs. (On Pedestal)

Fuel.................................................................................................... Solid Wood Only

Emissions, Efficiency, Heating Capacity and Burn Times may vary depending on actual home floor plan, type of fuel used, and moisture content of wood. Emissions and efficiency numbers are those that have been certified by the U.S. E.P.A. and the Oregon Department of Environmental Quality.

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CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS

Whether you install your wood heating appliance with a factory-built chimney or masonry chimney, there are certain rules that must be followed. The following guidelines for chimney installation are included in this manual to augment the information supplied with either the manufacturer's information for factory-built chimneys or to insure that your present masonry chimney is suitable for this wood heating appliance. Do not use makeshift methods or compromise in installation of any chimney equipment.

The 3-Foot, 2-Foot, 10-Foot Rule

The 3-foot, 2-foot, 10-foot rule states that all chimneys (factory-built or masonry) must be:

1. At least 3 feet higher than the highest part of the roof opening through which it passes;

2. And at least 2 feet higher than any part of the roof within 10 feet, measured horizontally. A chimney must meet requirement #1 and requirement #2. This rule, required by all building codes, applies to both factory-built and masonry chimneys.

Minimum Chimney Height on a Sloped Roof

2' Minimum

Minimum Chimney Height on a Flat Roof

10' or Greater

Wall or Parapet

10'

Ridge

3' Minimum

Less Than 10'

24"

42"

36"

18"

These minimum chimney heights are required by building codes for safety purposes, to allow time for sparks exiting a chimney to cool before they land on the roof. In some problematic situations, additional chimney height above the specified minimums may be necessary to reduce wind-induced down drafting and back puffing, or to increase draft, thereby improving appliance operating characteristics.

"A" "B"

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CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS (Cont.)

Factory-Built Chimneys

Depending on the manufacturer and where the chimney is to be installed, special supports, roof assemblies, radiation shields, or locking bands may be supplied as a part of the chimney system. The manufacturer's installation instructions, which are reviewed by the listing agency, specifies when and where each of these components must be used.

There are three standard installations with factory-built chimneys. Each type of installation should use flashing and an adjustable storm collar at the roof line to prevent water from entering the house. Manufacturers require that chimneys extending beyond a certain height above the roof (frequently above 5 feet) must also be braced.

A chimney cap keeps out rain, birds and other animals, and may reduce down drafts. Spark arresters, wire mesh devices designed to catch sparks and burning particles emitted with the smoke, may be included with factory-built chimney caps. These spark arresters may become encrusted with creosote, blocking the proper flow of flue gases out of the chimney. When burning wood, it is recommended that the spark arrester be cleaned regularly, or removed entirely unless individual conditions or local codes require their use.

Determining the Distance Between the Chimney and Combustibles

The chimney must be kept a minimum distance of 2" away from combustibles (e.g., drywall, wood framing, etc.). The distance between the outside surface of a chimney and combustibles is measured horizontally, at right angles to the chimney. The pitch of the platform (e.g., the roof) must be considered in calculating the size of the hole that is cut.

Calculating the Cut-Out on a Slanted Roof

Length of Cut-Out in Roof

Combustible Roof

Factory-Built Chimney with Required 2" Clearance

2" Min.

Width of Cut-Out in Roof

90û

Length of Cut-Out in Roof = "c" times 2 + chimney width

Width of Cut-Out in roof = 4" + chimney width

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CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS (Cont.)

Determining the Distance Between the Chimney and Combustibles (Continued)

Installers may find it convenient to create hole cut-out templates for pitches common to their area rather than performing the calculations or using a trial "cut and measure" system for each installation.

Carefully read the specifications, as minimum clearances other than 2 inches are sometimes required by the manufacturer. Maintain a minimum clearance of 2" or what the manufacturer requires, whichever is

greater.

Masonry Chimneys

If you are going to use an existing masonry chimney for your wood heating appliance make sure the chimney is inspected and found in good and safe condition. If the existing chimney is not in good condition repairs should be made before installation.

WARNING:

Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance. Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.

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FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

Your Lopi Flex-95 appliance comes completely assembled. The optional items available for the freestanding method of installation are listed below and require assembly.

MANDATORY FOR FREESTANDING INSTALLATIONS.

1. Top Kit (Includes the top panel and a flue extender)

2. Pedestal

3. Leg Kit, Steel

4. Leg Kit, Brass

5. Leg Kit, Cast

6. Blower, Front

7. Outside Air (Available with Pedestal or Outside Air Boot and Legs)

1. Top Kit

The top kit is mandatory for freestanding installations and contains both a top panel and flue extender. The directions below detail the installation of this kit.

THE TOP KIT IS

1. Unscrew the damper rod where it connects near the flue and remove it from the stove (see the illustration to the right). Next, remove the damper rod guide located in the center of the damper rod by unscrewing the two screws that hold it in place with a 5/16" nutdriver.

Remove the damper rod guide with a 5/16" nutdriver.

Unscrew the damper rod here.

2. Included with the flue extender is a roll of self-adhesive glass tape. Attach this tape along the top of the stove around the perimeter of the flue (see the illustration below). This tape acts as a gasket between the flue extender and the stove.

3. Place the flue extender over the flue so it is centered over the opening and the hole for the bypass damper rod is facing forwards. The flue extender is held in place with three bolts and tabs that attach to a threaded shaft on the inside the flue extender. With the flue extender centered over the flue, place a bolt with a tab inserted over it, into the threaded shaft from below so the tab extends outwards from the flue opening (see the illustration below). Tighten the bolt until the tab contacts the stove. Do not fully tighten this bolt at this point. Repeat for the remaining two bolts and tabs.

Threaded shaft on the flue extender.

Place the glass tape on top of the stove around the perimeter of the flue.

Top of Stove

Inside of flue

Flue extender

The bolt goes through the threaded shaft from the bottom.

4. Re-attach the damper rod that was removed in step one by inserting it through the hole in the front and flue extender and screwing it into the rod it was removed from.

5. Attach the top panel to the stove by placing it over the flue extender and carefully pushing it down until it is secure. See the above right illustration. Before tightening the bolts that hold the flue extender in place, make sure the flue extender is aligned properly and that the damper bypass goes in and out freely.

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FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

2. Pedestal Assembly:

Open the box marked Pedestal and

Attach the pedestal to the stove here

Optional Air Intake Port

remove the pedestal and the two attachment bolts and washers (3/8" diameter - 16 x 3/4" hex. head bolts). Included with the pedestal kit is a rodent screen and a roll of insulation. These items are used for an outside air connection. Refer to the isntructions included with the kit if installing the outside air option.

Lift the stove onto the pedestal. Line up the threaded bolt holes in the bottom of the stove with the two holes in the tabs that stick out of the side of the pedestal. Using an open-end or socket wrench, fasten the pedestal to the stove with the supplied bolts and washers.

3. Steel Leg Kit Assembly:

Open the box marked Steel Leg Kit and remove the four 6 1/2" high black steel legs, complete with rubber-tipped leveling bolts, the four attachment bolts (3/8" diameter - 16 x 3/4" hex. head bolts) and the washers.

Raise the stove on some pieces of lumber to a height of about 7". Line up the hole in the top of the leg with the threaded bolt hole in each corner of the stove bottom. Using a 9/16" open end or socket wrench, fasten the leg to the stove with the supplied attachment bolts and washers, making sure the legs are flush with the corners of the stove.

Attach Bolt (with washer) to Stove From Below

To level the stove, first make sure the leveling bolts with the rubber ends (some models come with steel bolts -- the same directions apply) are screwed into position and backed off just enough to penetrate below the steel portion of the leg. Unscrew each leveling bolt just enough so each leveling bolt is an equal distance from the floor. You may wish to use a piece of wood or other spacer to measure this distance. Next, lower the stove onto the ground and check for a level position. If slight adjustments need to be made, make sure to first raise the stove before turning the leveling bolts or moving the stove. The rubber tips of the leveling bolts will tear if they are adjusted or slid while weight is applied to them.

4. & 5. Brass and Cast Legs Assembly:

Open the box marked Brass (or Cast) Leg Kit and remove the four 7 7/8" high legs, complete with rubbertipped leveling bolts, the four attachment bolts (3/8" diameter - 16 x 3/4" hex. head bolts) and the washers.

Use the same directions listed above for the steel legs assembly. The one difference is that the brass (or cast) legs are taller, and the stove should be lifted approximately 8 1/2" above the floor before attachment.

Attach Bolt (with washer) to Stove From Below

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FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

6. Blower, Front

The front blower is designed to improve the natural convection of the stove by pushing air through the convection chamber of the stove and causing the heated air to exit through the vents along the top of the stove. It also has a thermodisk which turns the blower on and off automatically. Refer to the illustration to the right while following the directions to attach the blower.

The front blower fits underneath the ashlip.

Plug the blower into a 110 volt grounded outlet.

1. Remove the two screws below the ashlip with a 3/8" nutdriver.

Use a 3/8" nutdriver to attach the two screws that hold the front blower to the appliance.

2. Place the blower under the ashlip and align the two slots in the back mounting bar with the two holes in the face of the appliance.

3. Insert one of the screws in each hole. Pull the blower assembly up as far as it will go to eliminate any space between the blower and ashlip.

4. Tighten both screws securely. Insert the plug into a grounded outlet.

FRONT BLOWER OPERATION

The blower controls are located on the switch box

RUN OFF STARTUP

that is connected by a cord to the blower. There are two rocker switches that determine the speed and mode (automatic or manual) of the blower. The two speeds are RUN (slower) and STARTUP (faster). The two modes are AUTO (the

AUTO OFF MAN

Speed Control Rocker Switch (If OFF is selected, the blower will always be off, even if on automatic)

thermodisk controls the switch and the temperature of the firebox will determine when the blower starts or stops) and MAN (manual Ð the blower will run on the speed setting selected). The blower should be switched "OFF" for

Mode Rocker Switch (If OFF is selected, the blower will always be off, no matter what the speed setting is at)

approximately 30 minutes after each reload of the stove. This is to allow the stove to reach operating temperature.

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FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

7. Outside Air (Available with Pedestal or Outside Air Boot and Legs)

The outside air option allows the stove to use outside air for combustion instead of room air. This is a requirement for mobile home installations. Both the outside air boot and pedestal (with outside air installed) work in the same fashion. Instead of having the air enter through the air intake under the ashlip, the outside air option re-routes the air intake so the air is drawn from outside. This section will address the special installation factors that must be considered when installing this model of stove with outside air.

THE SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING THE OUTSIDE AIR BOOT AND PEDESTAL WITH OUTSIDE AIR ARE INCLUDED WITH THOSE KITS AND MUST BE READ PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE STOVE.

The most important factor that must be considered when installing outside air with your stove is placement. Make detailed plans to determine the precise location for your stove. When installing the outside air option there are two placement considerations that must be addressed simultaneously. They are:

1. Does the stove line up with the flue in the right location, avoiding structural members of the roof?

Stove placement should be made so the chimney avoids interference with structural members in roof.

2. Does the hole that is cut in the floor and hearth for the outside air avoid all structural members of the floor?

These two questions must be considered in determining the final location for the stove. To determine the size, shape, and location of the hole in the hearth and floor, refer to the directions included with the outside air boot or pedestal. To determine the size and location of the hole in the roof, refer to the directions included with the chimney being used and the location of the flue collar in the section "FREESTANDING INSTALLATION SPECIFICATIONS"

See the illustration to the right.

Remove the forward knockout for the outside air connection.

Stove placement should be made so the hole cut in the floor and hearth avoids interference with structural members in floor.

Hole for Outside Air

After the precise location of the stove is determined, the outside air boot or pedestal with outside air should be installed prior to installing the stove. Follow the directions included with the outside air boot or pedestal. Make sure to remove the correct knock-out for the outside air option. See the illustration to the left.

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PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING

READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE YOU INSTALL AND USE YOUR NEW APPLIANCE. FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY, OR EVEN DEATH.

PREPARATION:

1. Remove all tape and packaging.

2. Remove the wood shipping frame from around and under the appliance.

3. Check that no parts have become loose and the appliance has not been damaged during shipping.

4. Remove the hardware pack from the appliance.

5. READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL BEFORE PROCEEDING.

* Appliance should be located such that no doors, drapes, furniture or other combustibles can be placed closer or swing closer than the minimum stated clearances.

* The appliance must be installed in a level, secure position.

TOP KIT:

When installing this unit as a freestanding stove, it must be installed with the top kit. The top kit installation is outlined in the optional equipment section of this section.

REQUIRED FLOOR PROTECTION:

Minimum size 41 7/8"W x 45 3/4"L of noncombustible material with a minimum thickness of 26 gauge floor protection must extend under the appliance.

CHIMNEY LENGTHS: Maximum Minimum

Vertical 33 Feet 15 Feet

FACTORY BUILT CHIMNEYS & CONNECTORS:

If you are going to use a factory built chimney it should be 8" in diameter and a type suitable for use with solid fuels. Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions packaged within the chimney appliance.

Wall, ceiling, or roof penetrations can be made only with U.L. listed chimney components. NOTE: Your interior single wall chimney connector or double wall chimney connector must not pass through an attic, roof space, closet or similar unsealed space, floor, ceiling, wall or partition of combustible construction.

All sections of interior chimney connector should be securely fastened together by at least three sheet metal screws. The crimped end must be installed downwards (see drawing to right).

Front - 16" Sides - 6" Back - 6"

Top

When lifting the appliance, you may choose to remove the interior components to make it lighter. Refer to the section "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS" for the proper sequence of removal and replacement of internal components.

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FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS

REQUIRED FLOOR PROTECTION:

FRONT: 16"

SIDE: 6"

BACK: 6"

CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES:

Single Wall Connector

Backwall

A. Sidewall to unit ............................

B. Backwall to unit............................

C. Cornerwall to unit........................

D. Connector to sidewall.................

E. Connector to backwall................

F. Connector to cornerwall .............

}

6 "

}

From Faceplate

16"

Inches

20 18 14 31 20 1/2 25

Sidewall

Cornerwall

Reduced Clearance *

A. Sidewall to unit ............................

B. Backwall to unit............................

C. Cornerwall to unit........................

D. Connector to sidewall.................

E. Connector to backwall................

F. Connector to cornerwall .............

20 12 10 31 14 1/2 21

* Components required for alcove,

mobile home, and reduced clearance

installations are one of the following listed double wall connectors and chimney systems.

¥ DURAVENT model DVL with DURA-PLUS chimney ¥ AMERI-TEC model DCC with model HS chimney ¥ SECURITY model DP with SECURITY model

ASHT or S2100 chimney ¥ METAL-FAB model DW with model TG chimney ¥ Standard Masonry Chimney with any one of the

above listed connectors

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FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS (Cont.)

TOP VIEW

29 7/8"

14 15/16"

6 3/4"

23 3/4"

Edge of Faceplate

4 3/4"

26"

SIDE VIEW

Overall Height With:

Steel Legs.................................................................................. 29 3/4"

Brass Legs ................................................................................. 31 1/4"

Cast Legs ................................................................................... 31 1/4"

Pedestal...................................................................................... 35"

See Chart Below

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FREESTANDING INSTALLATION

Standard Ceiling Installation

When installing a freestanding stove into a residence with a standard ceiling, certain precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove into a standard ceiling with a factory-built chimney. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT NO CEILING SUPPORT MEMBER BE CUT FOR CHIMNEY AND SUPPORT BOX INSTALLATION. IF IT IS NECESSARY TO CUT THEM, THE MEMBERS MUST BE MADE STRUCTURALLY SOUND.

1. Make sure the factory built chimney satisfies all of the rules in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".

2. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FREESTANDING INSTALLATION SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING".

3. Carefully place the stove on top of the floor protection and join the chimney connector to the stove. When determining the placement of the stove, make sure to take into consideration the necessary clearances to combustibles and the placement of the chimney.

NOTE: When the chimney connector extends to a standard ceiling, as shown to the right, a support package and sometimes a chimney connector adapter are installed at the ceiling.

Working from the attic or roof, sufficient sections of factory-built chimney (available in different lengths) are installed to go through the space above the ceiling, then through and above the roof to the correct height above the roof line. The chimney sections should be stacked and locked securely as specified by the manufacturer.

minimum clearance of 2 inches is typically required between the outside surface of the factory-built chimney and any combustibles or insulation; the air space around the chimney never must be filled with insulation or any other material.

Chimney Sections

Roof Radiation Shield (Required by some manufacturers)

Attic Radiation Shield

Minimum Air Space in Accordance with Chimney Listing

Chimney Connector

Min. 16"

Chimney Cap

Storm Collar

Roof Flashing

Insulation

Min. 20 1/2" for Single Wall, 14 1/2" for Reduced Clearance Connector

Min. 18" for Single Wall, 12" for Reduced Clearance Connector

IMPORTANT: Make sure to follow all guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the chimney for safety in installation.

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FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Cathedral Ceiling Installation

When installing a freestanding stove into a residence with a cathedral ceiling, certain precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove into a cathedral ceiling with a factory-built chimney. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT NO CEILING SUPPORT MEMBER BE CUT FOR CHIMNEY AND SUPPORT BOX INSTALLATION. IF IT IS NECESSARY TO CUT THEM, THE MEMBERS MUST BE MADE STRUCTURALLY SOUND.

1. Make sure the factory-built chimney satisfies all of the rules in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".

2. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FREESTANDING INSTALLATION SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING".

Roof Radiation Shield (Required by some manufacturers)

Cathedral-Style Chimney Support

Finishing Collar

Minimum Air Space in Accordance with Chimney Listing

Chimney Connector

Chimney Cap

Factory-Built Chimney

Storm Collar

Roof Flashing

Min. 20 1/2" for Single Wall, 14 1/2" for Reduced Clearance Connector

NOTE: In rooms with cathedral ceilings, the roof and ceiling are combined . For this type of installation, manufacturers of factory-built chimneys

Min. 16"

Min. 18" for Single Wall, 12" for Reduced Clearance Connector

provide a special cathedral ceiling roof support kit with instructions that should be followed.

IMPORTANT: Because of the slope of the cathedral ceiling, care should be taken to extend the chimney sufficiently far into the room so that the chimney connector will meet the minimum clearances requirement from the sloped combustible ceiling. The greater the pitch of the ceiling, the further into the room the chimney section must extend. Use the concepts from "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS" to accurately measure the appropriate distance from a sloping ceiling.

IMPORTANT: Make sure to follow all guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the chimney for safety in installation.

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FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Horizontal Installation Into Factory-Built Chimney

When installing a freestanding stove into a residence with horizontal connection to a factory-built chimney, certain precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove with a horizontal installation into a factory-built chimney. This requires the use of an insulated tee, a wall support, wall closure plate, wall bands, roof flashing, storm collar and chimney cap. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.

1. Make sure the factory-built chimney satisfies all of the rules in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".

2. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING".

NOTE: An exterior chimney is subject to cold outdoor temperatures, leading to greater heat loss, creosote accumulation, and moisture condensation in the chimney. To reduce this possibility, the chimney may be enclosed in a chase. Specified minimum clearances from combustibles must be maintained. If the chase is insulated, the insulated walls should be sheathed with dry-wall or covered with wire mesh to keep the insulation in place. If the chase is to go through an eaves area, a firestop must be used to prevent air flow between the chase and the attic. This is to isolate the chase/attic area from fire and to prevent attic insulation from falling into the chase enclosure.

18" Min.

Chase (Optional)

Chimney Connector

Min. 20 1/2" for Single Wall, 14 1/2" for Reduced Clearance Connector

Min. 16"

Chimney Cap

Chimney Sections

Roof Radiation Shield (Required by some manufacturers)

Minimum Air Space in Accordance with Chimney Listing

Factory-Built Metal Chimney

Wall Band

Insulated Tee

Storm Collar

Roof Flashing

Min. 18" for Single Wall, 12" for Reduced Clearance Connector

Wall Support

IMPORTANT: Make sure to follow all guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the chimney for safety in installation.

Page 17

Page 18

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Hearth Stove Installation Using a Positive Connection

When installing a freestanding stove into a masonry fireplace that is using a positive connection, certain precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. The advantages of this type of connection are excellent chimney draft and ease of cleaning. A block-off plate is not needed for this type of installation because the positive connection provides sufficient draft. If one is used, it need not be airtight. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove into a positive connection factory-built chimney. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.

1. Install the positive connection (reline) through the masonry chimney according to the manufacturer's instructions for installation and support. Make sure to follow all of the manufacturer's safety precautions during assembly. Inspect the masonry chimney and make sure the chimney is in good and safe condition. If the existing chimney is not in good condition, repairs should be made before installation. Make sure the masonry fireplace and positive connection conform to all of the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".

2. If a block-off plate is desired (optional), follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section titled "INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".

3. Follow all of the clearance regulations for placement of your stove specified in the sections titled "FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION FREESTANDING ".

4. If you are using a block-off plate, slide the pipe into the plate up through the damper. If you are not using a block-off plate, make sure the last segment of the positive connection will reach the stove once it is in place.

5. You may now place your stove into position so that it lines up with the chimney connector.

6. With the connector in place, you now have completed the positive connection for your insert. It is a good idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug, a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth, make sure that the stove is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on the top of the stove.

7. Check the diagram on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.

Follow these directions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.

WARNING: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.

Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.

IMPORTANT: Make sure to follow all guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the chimney for safety in installation.

Page 18

Page 19

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Hearth Stove with Positive Connection (Continued)

Stainless Steel Chimney Liner System

Follow Liner Manufacturer's Instructions on Installation and Support

Combustible Mantle

Airtight Insulated Clean-Out

Remove Damper or Wire it Open

Block-off Plate or Damper Adapter (Optional)

Min. 16"

18" Min.

Floor Protection

Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.

Page 19

Page 20

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Hearth Stove Installation Using a Direct Connection

Using the direct connection between your hearth stove and masonry chimney allows you to use your existing chimney with a minimum of installation work. An airtight seal must be made with a block-off plate to insure that your chimney will draw the smoke out of the appliance. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove into a direct connection. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.

1. Inspect the masonry chimney and follow all the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS". Make sure the chimney is inspected and found in good and safe condition. If the existing chimney is not in good condition, repairs should be made before installation.

2. Follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section titled "INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".

3. Follow all of the clearance regulations for placement of your stove specified in the sections titled "FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION FREESTANDING ".

4. Once the plate is in position, slide the pipe into the plate up through the damper. It must extend up to the flue liner or at least one foot past the block-off plate.

5. You may now position the hearth stove and connector pipe so that it can be easily joined with the pipe coming from the flue opening.

6. With the connector in place, you have now completed the direct connection for your insert. It is a good idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug, a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth, make sure that the stove is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on the top of the stove.

7. Take a look at the figure on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.

Follow these directions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.

WARNING: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.

Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.

Page 20

Page 21

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

(Continued)

Hearth Stove with Direct Connection

Stainless Steel Chimney Connector Must Extend 1' past the Block-off Plate or to the Flue Liner

Airtight Insulated Clean-Out

Combustible Mantle

Remove Damper or Wire it Open

Block-off Plate or Damper Adapter

Min. 16"

Min. 18"

Floor Protection

Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.

Page 21

Page 22

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Hearth Stove Installation Using a Horizontal Connection

When installing a freestanding stove into a masonry fireplace that is using a horizontal connection, certain precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. A block-off plate is not needed for this type of installation because the seal can be maintained simply by closing the damper and sealing with a noncombustible material. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove using a horizontal connection to a masonry chimney. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.

1. Install the horizontal pipe section along with the necessary thimble assembly through the masonry chimney according to the manufacturer's instructions for installation and support. Make sure to follow all of the manufacturer's safety precautions during assembly. Inspect the masonry chimney and make sure the chimney is in good and safe condition. If the existing chimney is not in good condition, repairs should be made before installation. Make sure the masonry fireplace and positive connection conform to all of the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".

2. Close the damper and seal the edges with non-combustible material. It is a good idea to also remove the damper control rod to avoid anyone trying to re-open the damper.

3. Follow all of the clearance regulations for placement of your stove specified in the sections titled "FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION FREESTANDING " .

4. Place your stove into its final position so that the chimney connector will line up with the horizontal pipe section.

5. Attach the chimney connector to both the horizontal pipe section and the hearth stove. It is a good idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug, a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back and forth, make sure that the insert is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on the top of the insert.

7. Check the diagram on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.

Follow these directions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.

WARNING: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.

Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.

IMPORTANT: Make sure to follow all guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the chimney for safety in installation.

Page 22

Page 23

FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Hearth Stove Installation Using a Horizontal Connection (Continued)

Minimum Clearance from Chimney Connector to Unprotected Ceiling

Listed or Approved Thimble Assembly

1" Clearance for Completely Exterior Chimney or 2" Clearance for Interior Chimney and 2" Clearance for N.F.P.A. 211-Type Approved Thimbles

18"

Combustible Wall

Combustible Mantle

Flue Liner with Required Airspace

Airtight Insulated Clean-Out

FREES

Min. 16"

Min. 20 1/2" for Single Wall, 14 1/2" for Reduced Clearance Connector

Chimney Connector

18" Min.

Floor Protection

Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.

Damper Closed and Sealed with Non-Combustible Material OR Block-off Plate if damper can not be sealed

Page 23

Page 24

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

Your Lopi Flex-95 appliance comes completely assembled. The options for insert installation are listed below and require assembly. THE SURROUND PANELS ARE NECESSARY FOR

INSTALLATION AS AN INSERT, ALL OTHER EQUIPMENT IS OPTIONAL.

1. Surround Panels - 8", 10" or 12" Sizes

2. Surround Panel Brass Trim (Included with Surround Panels)

3. Flush Kit (For use with any of the Surround Panel sizes listed above)

4. Bay Kit

5. Flue Adapter

6. Blower, Front

1. Surround Panels

The surround panels for your insert are sold separately and come in the three sizes listed below. It is very important that you choose the surround panels that will adequately suit your installation. For direct or positive connections the surround panels do not require insulation for an airtight seal. For face seal connections the surround panels must overlap the fireplace at least 2" on the top and sides and require insulation to insure an airtight seal.

SURROUND PANEL SIZES SIZE ON INSERT (INCLUDING TRIM)

8" 45 1/2" width by 29 3/4" height 10" 49 1/2" width by 31 3/4" height 12" 53 1/2" width by 33 3/4" height

NOTE: For a Face Seal Connection it is recommended that you have at least 2" of overlap. On brick or stone facing an overlap of 2 1/2" may be necessary for an airtight seal due to the rough surface.

It is very important that your surround panels overlap the fireplace opening by 1/4" or more. This will insure a good seal and provide a more attractive facade. When determining your surround panel size, remember that the panels must overlap the fireplace opening in both width and height. The surround panels may overlap the fireplace opening by more than the 1/4" recommendation if it is to allow for a complete seal. Any questions on selection of the surround panels should be directed towards your dealer.

To install the surround panels, first refer to the type of installation you are using (e.g. Face Seal Connection, Direct Connection, etc...). Follow the directions listed for the type of installation you are doing, and follow the directions below when they are referred in that section. The insert will need to be drawn out of the fireplace at least 6" to allow for installation of the surround panels. If the insert is to be connected to a flue, the brass trim and top panel can be removed with the insert in its final position to access the flue and then later re-installed. If insulation is to be used and the top panel is to be removed, make sure to allow for this by not gluing the insulation along the top until the flue is connected.

If installing the after it is installed.

Flush Kit, first follow the directions for installing that kit, then follow the directions below

1. Remove the two bottom button plugs from each side of the insert with a screwdriver (Disregard this step if using the flush kit). See the illustration on the following page.

Page 24

Page 25

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

1. Surround Panels (Continued)

IF USING THE FLUSH KIT, FOLLOW STEP 2A, FOR EXTENDED, FOLLOW 2B

2A. Slide the inside flange of one of the side panels into the space between the side extender and insert,

lining up the slots in the panel with the holes in the side of the extender. Attach, but do not tighten, the panel with two screws and nuts (see the illustration below). Repeat for the other side.

2B. Slide the inside flange of one of the side panels inside the panel on the side of the insert, lining up the

slots in the panel with the holes in the side of the extender. Attach, but do not tighten, the panel with two screws and nuts (see the illustration below). Repeat for the other side.

3. Slide the top panel onto the offset on top of the side panels. The top panel must also slide over the mounting flange (or top extender when using the flush kit) that is on the insert. The top panel has four joggle clips that hold the top panel in place against the insert and the side panels. The best way to insert the top panel is to hold it at an angle and insert one side first and gradually lower it until the opposite side is inserted. Adjust the top panel so its edges are flush with the side edges of the side panels.

4. Adjust the position of the side panels so they are: 1) flush with the bottom of the insert; 2) both the same distance back from the front of the insert; 3) perpendicular to the floor. Tighten the screws that hold the side panel in place once they are properly aligned.

The damper rod must line up with the channel in the center of the top panel.

Side Panel

This button plug is for the flush kit only.

Remove the bottom two button plugs on both sides.

Top Panel

Joggle clips

Side Panel

Mounting Flange

The inside flange of the side panel fits inside the panel on the side of the insert (or side extender for the flush kit).

Attach the side panels with two screws and nuts as shown here.

NOTE: The side panels attach to the flush kit side extenders in the same manner as shown here.

Page 25

Page 26

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

1. Surround Panels (Continued)

INSULATION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

The installation of the insulation is required only for face seal connections. Direct and positive connections do not require the insulation to be installed. Refer to the installation instructions for more details on the type of installations available and the items that are required for each type of installation.

1. With the insert drawn at least 6" away from the fireplace, glue the insulation strip included with the surround panel kit to the back of the panels using RTV silicon or stove gasket cement. The insulation should be installed so it overlaps the fireplace opening to form a seal between the panels and the fireplace face.

2. Push the insert into the fireplace, insuring a seal is made with the insulation between the panels and the fireplace face. Use a screwdriver to tuck any exposed insulation behind the panels.

2. Surround Panel Brass Trim (Included with Surround Panels)

The surround panel brass trim is an item included with your panels that greatly enhances the appearance of your insert and is easy to install.

1. Lay the three pieces of brass trim on the floor in front of the insert. Arrange the brass trim so that it resembles the illustration below. The rounded edge of the trim that will be facing outwards when installed should be facing down.

CROSS SECTION OF BRASS TRIM

Set-screw that holds the larger "L" bracket in place

Groove where the larger "L" bracket fits into

Groove Where Surround Panels Slide

Groove where the smaller "L" bracket fits into

Front Side

Lay the trim on the floor in front of the insert with the rounded portion facing down.

Left Trim Right Trim

Insert

Smaller "L" Brackets

Larger "L" Brackets

Top Trim

2. Insert a large and small "L" bracket leg into the groove in the 45o cut end of each side piece. Slide the other leg of each "L" bracket into the groove in each end of the top piece.

3. With the allen wrench included with the trim, tighten the set-screws into the "L" brackets, insuring that the 45

cuts are butted together to form a neat joint.

4. Lift the complete brass trim assembly and slide the side pieces down over the edge of the side panels until the bottom edge of the brass trim is flush with the bottom of the side panels and the top panel is in the groove of the top brass trim piece.

Page 26

Page 27

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

3. Flush Kit

The flush kit is used to extend the surround panels towards the front of the insert, making the insert extend much less onto the hearth. The flush kit must be used in conjunction with one of the surround panel sizes listed in this manual. Follow the directions below to install the flush kit.

1. Remove the three button plugs from each side of the insert with a screwdriver . See the illustration below.

2. Using a 5/16" nutdriver or large screwdriver, screw the thread-cutting screws into the three holes on each side extender. Next, screw the thread-cutting screws into the two holes in the flange on top of the insert. The holes are now pre-threaded, remove the screws.

3. Attach one of the side extenders with three screws against the side of the insert so the three tabs on the extender go inside the panel on the side of the insert. Repeat for the other side.

4. Line up the two holes on the top extender with the two holes on the top flange of the insert. Attach the top extender with two screws.

5. Included with the flush kit is a bypass damper rod extension. Unscrew the bypass damper rod pull ring and install the rod extension. Replace the pull ring on the end of the extension.

6. The flush kit is now installed. When installing the surround panels, refer to the section on installing the surround panels, substituting two steps: (a) attach the side panels to the extenders, not to the insert; (b) attach the top surround panel to the top extender, not to the flange on top of the insert.

The top surround panel slides over this flange.

These holes are for the screws that hold the top extender in place.

The damper rod must be unscrewed here and the damper rod extension put in place.

Attach the side surround panels through these holes.

The top extender connects to the insert with two screws.

Remove all three button plugs on both sides.

THE THREE TABS FIT BEHIND THE PANEL ON THE SIDE OF THE INSERT.

Pre-thread the three holes before installing.

Attach the side extender with three screws using a 5/16" nutdriver.

Page 27

Page 28

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

4. Bay Kit

The bay kit for your insert is sold separately and offers an attractive facade for your installation. It is very important that your installation is adequately suited for the bay kit before deciding on that type of installation. For direct or positive connections the bay kit does not require insulation for an airtight seal. For face seal connections the bay kit must overlap the fireplace at least 2" on the top and sides and requires insulation to insure an airtight seal (See "Surround Panel Insulation Installation").

BAY KIT DIMENSIONS: 42 3/4" Wide 29 1/2" Height

NOTE: For a Face Seal Connection it is recommended that you have at least 2" of overlap. On brick or stone facing an overlap of 2 1/2" may be necessary for an airtight seal due to the rough surface.

It is very important that the bay kit overlaps the fireplace opening by 1/4" or more. This will insure a good seal and provide a more attractive facade. The bay kit must overlap the fireplace opening in both width and height. The bay kit may overlap the fireplace opening by more than the 1/4" recommendation if it is to allow for a complete seal. Any questions on the use of the bay kit should be directed towards your dealer. To install the bay kit, first refer to the type of installation you are using (e.g. Face Seal Connection, Direct Connection, etc...).

Follow the directions listed for the type of installation you are doing, and follow the directions below when the surround panels are referred to in that section. The insert should be placed one foot away from the hearth to install the bay kit. After the bay kit has been installed, the insert can be placed into position.

1. Remove the three button plugs from each side of the insert.

2. The side bays attach with three screws and nuts. First, insert the flange on the inward side of one of the side bays inside the panel on the side of the insert. Next, feed three of the screws included with the bay kit through the bay kit and through the holes exposed in step one so the head of the screw is facing inward (see the illustration below). Place three nuts over these screws and tighten just enough to pull the side bay against the insert.

Attach each side bay to the insert with three of the included screws and nuts.

Line up each side bay and place it so the inward flange goes inside the panel on the side of the insert.

Page 28

Page 29

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

4. Bay Kit (Continued)

3. Un-screw the handle on the damper rod before installing the bay kit top panel. Slide the top panel onto the top of the side bays. The top panel has joggle clips that hold the top panel in place against the insert and the side bays. The best way to insert the top panel is to hold it at an angle and insert one side first and gradually lower it until the opposite side is inserted. Adjust the top panel so its edges are flush with the side edges of the side panels. Replace the damper rod handle after the top panel is in place.

Place the top panel for the bay kit over the insert. There are four joggle clips on the top panel that slide over the side bays and top flange that hold the top panel in place.

The brass trim fits over the top portion of the top panel.

Un-screw the damper control handle before installing the top panel of the bay kit. Re-install the handle after the top panel is in place

4. Adjust the position of the side bays so they are: 1) flush with the bottom of the insert; 2) both the same distance back from the front of the insert; 3) perpendicular to the floor. Tighten once the side bay is properly aligned.

NOTE: If using a positive or direct connection, the top panel should be installed after the

flue is connected to the appliance.

5. The brass trim is pre-assembled and can be slid over the top panel of the bay kit.

6. Blower, Front

The front blower is designed to improve the natural convection of the stove by pushing air through the convection chamber of the stove and causing the heated air to exit through the vents along the top of the stove. It also has a thermodisk which turns the blower on and off automatically. Refer to the illustration on the following page while following the directions to attach the blower.

1. Remove the two screws below the ashlip with a 3/8" nutdriver.

2. Place the blower under the ashlip and align the two slots in the back mounting bar with the two holes in the face of the appliance.

3. Insert one of the screws in each hole. Pull the blower assembly up as far as it will go to eliminate any space between the blower and ashlip.

Page 29

Page 30

INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)

6. Blower, Front (Continued)

4. Tighten both screws securely.

5. Insert the plug into a grounded outlet.

The front blower fits underneath the ashlip.

Use a 3/8" nutdriver to attach the two screws that hold the front blower to the appliance.

FRONT BLOWER OPERATION

The blower controls are located on the switch box that is connected by a cord to the blower. There are two rocker switches that determine the speed and mode (automatic or manual) of the blower. The two speeds are RUN (slower) and STARTUP (faster). The two modes are AUTO (the thermodisk controls the switch and the temperature of the firebox will determine when the blower starts or stops) and MAN (manual Ð the blower will run on the speed setting selected). The blower should be switched "OFF" for approximately 30 minutes after each reload of the stove. This is to allow the stove to reach operating temperature.

Plug the blower into a 110 volt grounded outlet.

RUN OFF STARTUP

AUTO OFF MAN

Speed Control Rocker Switch (If OFF is selected, the blower will always be off, even if on automatic)

Mode Rocker Switch (If OFF is selected, the blower will always be off, no matter what the speed setting is at)

Page 30

Page 31

PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT

READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE YOU INSTALL AND USE YOUR NEW APPLIANCE. FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY, OR EVEN DEATH.

PREPARATION:

1. Remove all tape and packaging.

2. Remove the wood shipping frame from around and under the appliance.

3. Check that no parts have become loose and the appliance has not been damaged during shipping.

4. Remove the hardware pack from the appliance.

5. READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL BEFORE PROCEEDING.

* Appliance should be located such that no doors, drapes, furniture or other combustibles can be

placed close or swing closer than the minimum 36" clearance.

* The appliance must be installed in a level, secure position.

REQUIRED FLOOR PROTECTION:

NOTE: Minimum hearth extension of 42" width by 18" depth from fireplace insert door opening is required.

CHIMNEY LENGTH Maximum Minimum

Vertical 33 Feet 15 Feet

OPTIONS

Your fireplace insert comes completely assembled. Options available for your fireplace insert are:

1. Surround Panels - 8", 10" or 12" Sizes

2. Surround Panel Brass Trim (Included with Surround Panels)

3. Flush Kit (For use with any of the Surround Panel sizes listed above)

4. Bay Kit

5. Blower, Front

SAFETY

For your safety, examine the fireplace and chimney prior to installation of the insert to determine that they are free from cracks, loose mortar, creosote deposits, blockages, or other signs of deterioration. If evidence of deterioration is noted, the insert should not be installed until after repairs have been made. Any opening between the masonry of the fireplace and the facing masonry must be permanently sealed.Your fireplace insert is listed for installation into masonry fireplaces, and is approved to be installed with one of the following connections:

1. Positive

2. Direct

3. Face Seal NOTE: It is recommended your chimney have a minimum 28 and a

maximum of 144 square inch cross-sectional area to use a face seal connection, otherwise your chimney may not have sufficient draw for the fireplace insert to operate correctly. If your chimney does not fit within these

parameters it is recommended you install a direct or positive connection.

Page 31

Page 32

FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS

LOCATION OF FLUE COLLAR DIMENSIONS REQUIRED FOR INSTALLATION INTO FIREPLACE AND PANEL SIZING.

TOP VIEW

29 7/8"

14 15/16"

6 3/4"

Edge of Faceplate

26"

13 5/8" (Extended & Bay)

4 3/4"

19" (Flush)

23 3/4"

FIREPLACE SIZING

Measure and center the appliance into the fireplace based on the provided measurements.

Extended

Flush

or Bay

A. Minimum Height

22 3/4"

(Front)

22 3/4" B. Minimum Height (Back)

29 1/2"

C. Minimum Width (Front)

D. Minimum Width (Back)

E. Depth into Fireplace

13 5/8"

9 7/8"

F. Extension onto Hearth

23"

22 3/4"

29 1/2"

23"

19"

4 1/2"

Page 32

Page 33

FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)

FLOOR PROTECTION:

Hearth of 42" width and 18" depth when the insert is in place (see "E" and "F" below).

CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES:

(NOTE: Measures for the bay kit should be taken before the side bays are put on or to the edge of the firebox.)

A. Adjacent Sidewall to

Insert

B. Side Facing

C. Top Facing

(Facing with Shield)

D. Mantle to Insert

(Mantle with Shield)

E. Minimum Floor

Protection-Front

F. Minimum Floor

Protection-Side

15"

23" 17"

25" 19"

18"

COMBUSTIBLE MANTLE

Combustible Surface

Surround Panel

Combustible Surface

COMBUSTIBLE SIDEWALL

Fireplace Facing

Edge of Firebox

LEVELING BOLTS

If your fireplace is stepped down from the hearth, you will be required to use the leveling bolts located within the hardware package.

Prior to placing the insert

BOTTOM VIEW

in the fireplace opening, measure the step-down. Screw the 1/2" bolts provided into the threaded holes in the back corners

Leveling Bolts

of the insert body and adjust them to match the step-down measurement. As you install the insert the leveling bolts may need further adjustment. This may be done by tilting the insert slightly and turning the bolts.

Page 33

Page 34

MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION

Installation Using a Direct Connection

Using the direct connection between your insert and masonry chimney allows you to use your existing chimney with a minimum of installation work. An airtight seal must be made with a block-off plate to insure that your chimney will draw the smoke out of the appliance. The directions below illustrate one way to install your insert into a direct connection masonry chimney. There are other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you. The directions below should be followed in the order listed.

1. Inspect the masonry chimney and follow all the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY

INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".

2. Follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section titled "INSTALLATION OF A

FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".

3. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT -

SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT".

4. The chimney connector that connects to the insert must be notched 1 1/4" above the bottom edge of

the connector (1/2" wide) to accomodate the bypass damper rod. See the illustration to the left below.

5. Once the plate is in position, slide the pipe into the plate up through the damper. It must extend up to

the flue liner or at least one foot past the block-off plate.

Top

Notch for bypass damper rod (1/2" wide)

1 1/4"

Block-off Plate

6. Once this has been accomplished, reach in and pull the connector pipe down into the flue of the

insert. If ample room between the top of the insert and the fireplace opening does not exist, you will need to remove the top firebricks by following the directions in the section "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS". Then reach inside the appliance and pull the connector down by placing your hand up through the flue opening of the appliance. The chimney connector should fit tight and secure into the flue opening.

7. With the connector in place, you have now completed the direct connection for your insert. It is a good

idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug, a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth, make sure that the insert is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight in the flue collar on top of the insert.

8. Take a look at the figure on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.

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MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Installation Using a Direct Connection (Continued)

9. To install the surround panels, follow the directions listed in the section "INSTALLING SURROUND

PANELS" . NOTE: Surround panels are not required for a direct connection if a block-off plate is used.

Follow the installation instructions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.

SIDE VIEW OF FIREPLACE INSERT DIRECT CONNECTION

Clay Flue Liner with Required Air Space

Stainless Steel Chimney Connector Must Extend to Clay Flue Liner or at least one foot beyond Block-off Plate

Airtight Insulated Clean-Out

Remove Damper or Wire it Open

Block-off Plate

Insulation (Optional)

Block-off Plate Insulation

Optional Surround Panel

Non-Combustible Material

18" Min.

Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.

The Extended Installation is shown here. For the flush or bay installation follow the specifications given for that type of installation.

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Page 36

MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Installation Using a Positive Connection

Using a positive connection between your insert and masonry chimney allows you to use your existing masonry chimney to support a new factory-built chimney liner. The advantages of a positive connection are excellent chimney draft and ease of cleaning. A block-off plate is not needed for this type of installation because the positive connection provides sufficient draft. If one is used, it need not be airtight. The directions below illustrate one way to install your positive connection. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.

1. Install the positive connection (full reline) through the masonry chimney according to the

manufacturer's instructions for installation and support. Make sure to follow all of the manufacturer's safety precautions during assembly. Inspect the masonry chimney and positive connection so that all of the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS" are met.

2. If a block-off plate is desired (optional), follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section

titled "INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".

3. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT -

SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT".

4. The chimney connector that connects to the insert must be notched 1 1/4" above the bottom edge of

the connector (1/2" wide) to accomodate the bypass damper rod. See the illustration to the left below.

5. If you are using a block-off plate, slide the pipe into the plate up through the damper. If you are not

using a block-off plate, make sure the last segment of the positive connection will reach the insert once it is inserted into the fireplace.

Top

Notch for bypass damper rod (1/2" wide)

1 1/4"

Block-off Plate

6. You may now place your insert into the fireplace opening and position the connector pipe so that it

can be easily pushed into the flue opening on top of the insert. You may want to use a towel or blanket to protect the floor or panel finish while positioning the insert.

7. Once this has been accomplished, reach in and pull the connector pipe down into the flue of the

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MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Installation Using a Positive Connection (Continued)

8. With the connector in place, you have now completed the positive connection for your insert. It is a

good idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug, a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth, make sure that the insert is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight in the flue collar on top of the insert.

9. Take a look at the illustration below. Make sure all of the items listed below are completed.

Must be sealed at the top (preferable) or with a block-off plate

Stainless Steel Chimney Liner System

Follow Liner Manufacturer's Instructions on Installation and Support

Airtight Insulated Clean-Out

Remove Damper or Wire it Open

Insulation (Optional)

Optional Face Seal

The Extended Installation is shown here. For the flush or bay installation

Non-Combustible Material

18" Min.

follow the specifications given for that type of installation.

10. To install the surround panels, follow the directions listed in the section "INSTALLING SURROUND

PANELS" .

Follow the installation instructions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.

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Page 38

MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)

Installation Using a Face Seal Connection

NOTE: It is recommended your chimney have a minimum 28 and a maximum of 144 square inch cross-sectional area to use a face seal connection, otherwise your chimney may not have sufficient draw for the fireplace insert to operate correctly. If your chimney

does not fit within these parameters it is recommended you install a direct or positive connection. Using a face seal connection allows you to use your existing masonry chimney with your new insert. The

advantages of a face seal connection are ease of installation and low cost. The directions below illustrate the way to install a face seal connection with your insert.

1. Inspect the masonry chimney to make sure the fireplace meets all of the rules outlined in the section

titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS". Make sure the fireplace and chimney are thoroughly cleaned and in good condition.

2. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT -

SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT".

3. Wire open or remove the fireplace damper

4. Follow the directions specified in the section titled "SURROUND PANEL INSTALLATION" for

installation of the panels and the insulation. Insulation between the surround panels and the facing of the fireplace is required.

5. Take a look at the figure below. Make sure all of the items listed are completed.

Airtight Insulated Clean-Out

Remove Damper or Wire it Open

Insulation (Required)

Face Seal (2" to 2 1/2" Overlap)

Non-Combustible Material

18" Min.

The Extended Installation is shown here. For the flush or bay installation follow the specifications given for that type of installation.

Follow the installation instructions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.

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Page 39

INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE

A block-off plate is used to prevent the exhaust going into a masonry fireplace from entering the inside of the house. It insures a tight seal between the masonry fireplace and the stove pipe leading through it. A properly made block-off plate, coupled with either a positive or direct connection, provides the wood heating appliance with a vacuum draw that pulls the flue gases out of the appliance and out the top of the chimney. The directions below show how a block-off plate is made.

1. Measure below damper area the width from side to side at rear of smoke chamber. Label this

Measurement "A".

2. Measure the width below damper area from side to side at front of smoke chamber. Label this

Measurement "B".

3. Measure the depth below damper front to back of smoke chamber. Label this Measurement "C".

4. Make a template of your measurements, but add 2" to each of the sides.

CROSS SECTION OF FIREPLACE

Your template should resemble the drawing on the next page with the dotted lines indicating your initial measurements and the solid line indicating the additional 2". You will use this template to cut a piece of sheet metal (minimum 24 gauge) to install in your smoke chamber.

The solid line will represent the shape of the piece of sheet metal cut while the dotted line will represent where you will bend the sheet metal for installation. Mark the position of several holes on each side to suit your specific installation, and drill 1/4" diameter holes.

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INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE (Continued)

Measurement "A"

Measurement "C"

} 2 "

Measurement "B"

5. Bend the sheet metal as indicated on the template at a 45 degree angle on each side after cutting the

sheet metal (This 2" lip will allow you to screw this plate into the smoke chamber inside your fireplace). The 2" lip with the 1/4" diameter holes will allow you to screw the plate to the firebox walls.

6. Determine the position of where to cut the 6-1/4" hole in the sheet metal plate so that it lines up with

the chimney flue opening and the final position of the wood burning appliance, then cut the hole. If you are installing surround panels with your insert, refer to the section "SURROUND PANEL INSTALLATION" for how to position your insert correctly.

7. Put the plate in position and drill the mounting holes. Then bolt into position using the mounting bolts.

The seal can be completed by using fiberglass insulation and/or furnace cement between the masonry and the block-off plate.

NOTE: Allow the furnace cement to cure for 12 to 24 hours before starting a fire.

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Page 41

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE

Location and Use of Controls

NOTE: The Bypass Damper Control becomes hot during operation. Use the included adjustment

tool to adjust this control while the appliance is hot.

Combustion Air Control

The Combustion Air Control is located in the center under the door and is operated by pushing or pulling the control. When the control is pulled out, it is in the fully closed position. When it is pushed in, it is in the fully open position.

Bypass Damper Control

The Bypass Damper Control is located above the door in the center, and is operated by pushing or pulling the control. When pulled out all the way, the bypass damper is open, causing the catalytic combustor to be bypassed. When it is pushed in, the flue gases are channeled through the catalytic combustor.

Catalytic Combustor Gage

The Catalytic Combustor Temperature Gage is used to measure the temperature inside the catalytic combustor. This temperature is used determine when to bypass the catalytic combustor and if it is working correctly.

Bypass Damper Control (Becomes Hot During Use) Out = Catalytic Combustor Bypassed In = Flue Gases Channeled Through Catalytic Combustor

Combustion Air Control In = Open Out = Closed

Catalytic Combustor Temperature Gage (Measures the temperature inside the Catalytic Combustor)

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OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

To build a fire in disregard of the information provided in this section can cause permanent damage to your appliance and void your warranty.

This appliance is not designed for use with the door open. Burning with the loading door open could create a safety hazard.

Burning Procedure

1. Open the door and place some paper and kindling or a solid, wax impregnated firestarter inside the

appliance.

2. Make sure that the combustion air intake control is fully open by pushing the control knob all the way

in. Pull the bypass damper control, located on the center of the appliance above the door, all the way out.

3. Now light the fire and close the door. Once the kindling is burning, add some small dry pieces of

wood and close the loading door. NOTE: The first two or three fires in your new appliance will cause the high temperature paint to give off a slight odor and a small amount of smoke. This is the paint curing. For best results during the curing of the paint, burn small intense fires so the appliance does not overheat. The high temperature paint cures best at medium temperatures. To prevent the door gasketing from sticking to the seasoning paint during the first few operations, open the doors slowly and often. Also, the viewing glass may become somewhat obscure the first few times as your appliance is drying all the moisture from bricks and even the steel itself. During the first few fires it may be a little harder to start the fire because the firebricks will contain some moisture.

4. Next add two or three medium size dry logs (use of green or wet wood in your appliance will develop

creosote, cloud glass, and greatly decrease its efficiency). At this time establish a hot fire with a bed of red hot coals.

5. To slow the rate of burn, you can close (pull out) the combustion air intake control as needed.

6. The combustor bypass control should be pushed in only when the appliance has reached operating

temperature (20 to 30 minutes).

7. When adding to the fire, first open the combustion air control (all the way in) and damper bypass

control (all the way out) before opening the loading door. this will prevent the possibility of smoke spillage into your house and insure that the catalytic combustor does not lose its operating temperature.

Do not open the door of your appliance when the air control inlet is fully closed. There is a possibility with a solid fuel burning appliance that doing so could result in a sudden flash of flames as the fire ignites with oxygen. However, your Lopi Flex-95 has been thoroughly safety tested to reduce this possibility.

If your home is a new, airtight energy efficient home, you may have to supply an outside air inlet to prevent possible air starvation to appliance.

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Page 43

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

Maintaining Catalytic Light-Off

Your Lopi Flex-95 is equipped with a catalytic combustor which increases the efficiency of your appliance. It is located along the roof of the firebox and is accessed from within. Its purpose is to re-ignite the flue gases before they exit up the chimney. This process, called catalytic light-off, increases the heat output of your fireplace and reduces the amount of emissions.

While starting a fire the catalytic combustor is bypassed to allow the fire to get up to temperature. Once the fire is up to temperature the bypass camper control can be pushed in to allow the flue gases to be routed through the catalytic combustor.

When to Push in the Damper Bypass

The temperature in the appliance and the flue gases entering the combustor must be raised to between 500 and 700 degrees F. for the catalytic combustor to work correctly. During the start up of a cold appliance a medium to high heat range setting must be maintained for a minimum of 20 minutes. This ensures that the appliance, catalyst and fuel are all stabilized at their proper operating temperature. Even though it is possible to have gas temperatures reach 600 degrees F. within 2 to 3 minutes after a fire is started, if the fire is allowed to die down immediately it may go out and the combustor may stop working. Once the combustor starts working, the heat generated in it by burning the smoke will keep it working. The catalytic combustor temperature gage should be checked to insure that the catalytic combustor is working at 500 degrees F. or above ten minutes after the bypass damper is pushed in. It should also remain above 500 degrees F. after it has reached operating temperature.

What to do after Refueling Your Fireplace

During the refueling and rekindling of a cool fire or a fire that is in the charcoal phase, operate the appliance at a medium to high firing rate for about 10 minutes to insure that the catalyst reaches at least 500 degrees F. This will insure catalytic light-off.

CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF

Flue Gases Re-Ignite Inside the Catalytic Combustor, Cutting Emissions

Catalytic Combustor (Heated to between 500 and 700 degrees F.)

Flue Gases from Fireplace

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Page 44

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

Burning Your Appliance Efficiently

Your Lopi Flex-95 is designed to heat your home efficiently with the lowest amount of creosote build-up and pollutants emitted. The following steps provide a guideline to efficient burning:

On cold days, when you wish for high heat output from your appliance, load the appliance fully after the fire has been established and burn at a medium-high to high burn mode. When a comfortable heat level in your home has been reached, subsequent loadings would be of lesser amounts of wood. On warmer days, burn smaller fires, using less wood. This method will give you the most efficient burn possible.

Although the fire will burn longer at a lower setting, your appliance will not produce as much heat and it will increase soot accumulation on the appliance, chimney and glass.

For an overnight burn, establish a hot fire. Before you are ready to retire, completely fill the appliance with wood. With the controls in the fully open position, let the fire burn intensely for 20-30 minutes. Next adjust the air control so that a low, lazy flame is visible. In the overnight burn, you should be able to maintain a fire for about 10-12 hours, depending on the type of wood used, and still have a coal bed, with no visible flame, left to start the morning fire. To re-establish a fire after an overnight burn, open the controls fully and stir the ashes to bring hot coals to the surface. Then follow the instructions under "first fire". If you dampen the fire down too low, you will not only lower the heat output, but you will be promoting creosote build-up. It will take a few days of practice to achieve the desired settings.

APPROXIMATE COMBUSTION AIR CONTROL SETTINGS

TYPE OF BURN RATE AIR CONTROL SETTING

Overnight Burn ................................................................................ Fully Closed

Medium Burn ................................................................................... 5/32"

Medium High Burn.......................................................................... 3/8"

High Burn ......................................................................................... Fully Open

Daily Use of Your Appliance

During daily use of your appliance you will learn what rates of burn best accomodate your heating needs.

A Helpful Hint

After loading your appliance, open the air control and allow your appliance to burn vigorously for 20 to 30 minutes. This will assist in the burn-off of any creosote which accumulates over periods of extended use at low settings.

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Page 45

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

Wood

This appliance is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally result when you burn air dried, seasoned hardwoods as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods. DO NOT BURN treated wood, garbage, solvents, trash, coal, cardboard, colored paper, or wax impregnated logs (i.e. Duraflame, etc.). Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or driftwood from salt water may result in release of toxic fumes and may render the appliance ineffective and void the limited warranty. Burning coal, cardboard or loose paper can produce soot, large flakes, char or fly ash that can coat the inside of your appliance, causing smoke spillage into the room.

Choosing the kind of firewood to burn in your appliance depends on what is available to you. If all you can obtain is softwoods, obviously, that will be your choice.

Softwoods such as pine and fir are easily ignited and burn rapidly with hot flames. Since they burn so easily and quickly you will have to spend more time loading your firebox, especially in the high burn mode. With softwoods it will be much more difficult to achieve an overnight burn. Furthermore, softwoods make it necessary to reload the appliance more often. The chart below outlines the advantages of using hardwood.

SPECIES* LBS./CORD** BTU's/CORD** Hours per Cord at 40,000 BTU's

per Hour**

ALDER APPLE ASH BIRCH CEDAR COTTONWOOD DOGWOOD ELM FIR, DOUGLAS HEMLOCK MAPLE OAK, RED OAK, WHITE PINE REDWOOD SPRUCE

* At 20% moisture content ** All values are approximate

2540 19,050,000 476 4400 33,000,000 825 3440 25,800,000 645 3040 22,800,000 705 2060 15,450,000 386 2160 16,200,000 405 4320 31,725,000 793 2260 16,950,000 423 2970 22,275,000 556 2700 20,250,000 506 3200 24,000,000 600 3680 27,600,000 690 4200 31,500,000 787 2250 16,875,000 421 2400 18,000,000 450 2240 16,800,000 420

If you have a choice it is best to use the more dense hardwoods for a longer lasting fire. The best arrangement is to have a mix of softwoods and hardwoods for ease of start-up and a longer lasting fire. Also, it is a good idea once the fire is established to use larger diameter logs stacked tightly together. This will promote a longer burn time.

Wood is typically sold by the "cord". A cord is a nicely stacked pile of logs measuring 4 feet wide by 4 feet high by 8 feet long. Always look for the driest wood especially if you purchase your wood by weight. Unseasoned, wet wood is much heavier.

Moisture content of the wood greatly affects the way any appliance operates. Well seasoned wood (split, stacked and kept dry for at least 12 months) is your best fuel choice.

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Page 46

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

Wood (Continued)

Wet wood not only causes more work for you due to the increase in weight making it more burdensome to carry, but most importantly it will not burn as efficiently. You will receive less heat output from a wet piece of wood because it wastes energy evaporating the water, energy that should be used for heating your home. When a wet piece of wood is placed in your appliance it will also cause more creosote accumulation on the glass, in the appliance, flue and chimney. The primary reason for this is, as the water evaporates from the wood it will "spit" creosote-like material. If you can hear your wood sizzle or you can see moisture bubbling from the ends of the logs placed in a HOT appliance, your wood is too wet! Another big advantage to burning seasoned wood, aside from higher efficiency and less creosote, is LESS POLLUTION!

Seasoning Wood

Green wood will burn, but seasoned or dry wood is lighter, has more heat value, and is less apt to form creosote deposits. Any moisture in the wood reduces the recoverable heat because water absorbs heat in the process of being changed to steam. The net heat from a pound of completely dry (no moisture) hardwood is about 7,950 BTU's. All wood has some moisture in it which reduces the net usable heat at a rate of 1,200 BTU's per pound of water.

The moisture in the wood of living trees varies among species, within a species, and even within individual trees. Frequently, there is a significant difference between the quantity of moisture contained in the central column of heartwood of a tree and the outer layers of sapwood which is surrounded with bark. For example, freshly cut American beech has been found to have a heartwood moisture content of 72%. In contrast, heartwood moisture contents in American elm, northern red oak, and white ash are 95, 80 and 46%, respectively.

When drying wood, the greater the surface area exposed to the air, the more rapid the drying. Therefore, stack the wood in loose piles that are raised off the ground. Wood greater than 8 inches in diameter or longer than 4 feet dries very slowly. Reduce the size of such sticks by splitting and/or sawing.

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Page 47

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

Seasoning Wood (Continued)

Place firewood in an open area to obtain rapid drying and to prevent deterioration. Preferably, put a cover on the top tier of wood. If you cut trees in summer, let them lie for a week. The leaves will draw moisture from the wood and dry it more quickly than if you limb the tree immediately.

Seasoning can be accelerated greatly by simply stacking fuelwood in a sunny location and then covering it with clear plastic sheeting. In sunny weather, temperatures within the plastic covering will rise much higher than outside, warming the wood and evaporating the contained moisture. The water vapor produced either escapes or condenses on the plastic covering; therefore some arrangement for ventilation is necessary. It is also desirable to hold the plastic away from the rough ends of the wood to prevent abrasion, allow air to flow, and keep any condensation from re-wetting the wood.

SOLAR WOOD DRYER

In sunny weather, the temperature within the dryer rises much higher than outside temperatures, warming the wood and evaporating the contained moisture.

Cover with 4 mil Polyethylene

Air flow

Pr ev ai li ng Wi nd s

Raise stack off the ground to increase air flow

Air flow

Many arrangements for plastic covering are possible. Thin 2 millimeter, clear polyethylene sheeting sold for drop cloths or garden mulching is not recommended because it is easily torn. The 4 millimeter thickness is more satisfactory and less costly than 6 millimeter. Any clear polyethylene deteriorates badly after a few months of exposure to full sunlight, so the stack may have to be re-roofed to remain dry over winter.

Page 47

Page 48

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

Seasoning Wood (Continued)

The bathroom scales can be used to check if firewood is still seasoning. Weigh a basket or bag of a few pieces of firewood. Place them back in the wood pile as an identified unit. Then weigh them again in about a month. If they have lost weight, the wood is still drying. Cracks that appear in the end of logs are good signs that the wood is well seasoned.

Generally, wood that is 1) cut to length, 2) split, and 3) stacked in the open, preferably with a cover, during the winter, should be thoroughly seasoned by the next heating season.

Storing Wood

Firewood is best stored outdoors, under cover and near the house so that valuable space in the house is not used, insects are kept outside, and the dirt problem is reduced. Store the wood under cover to keep it dry and its fuel value high. It can be stored in a wood shed, utility building, garage or under a sheet of plastic or sheet metal roofing.

When drying wood, the greater the surface area exposed to the air, the more rapid the drying. Wood greater than 8" in diameter or longer than 4' dries very slowly. Reduce the size of such sticks by splitting and/or sawing. Be sure to keep an air space between the wood and any covering. Stack the wood in loose piles that are raised off the ground. This will promote air circulation that helps dry the wood.

TYPICAL WOOD SHED

Sheet Metal Roofing

2x6x12 Rafter

2x4 Purlins

2x8x8' Girder

4x4x2 Posts Spaced 8' Apart

Siding and Girts (Optional)

8' Width

3' Depth

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Page 49

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

Storing Wood (Continued)

If sufficient space is available under a roof, seasoning and storage can be accomplished in one handling. This practice eliminates the extra handling of moving wood that has been dried outside into a covered storage area.

Outside, wood will dry to between 14 and 25% moisture content depending on humidity, temperature, and wind. In a garage or woodshed it may dry to between 10 and 15% moisture content; and wood may dry to between 5 and 12% in the house. End braces can be used if you have difficulty stacking wood and if the pile collapses at either end. Constructed with two-by-fours, end braces are like book ends and can be built to accurately measure a standard cord. The boards beneath the woodpile keep the bottom row off wet ground.

In some homes a wood box can be constructed inside the house, convenient to the wood appliance and which has loading access outside. The access door to the wood box from the outside of the house should be tight fitting.

Page 49

Page 50

OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)

SAFETY IN OPERATION

The Following Safety Rules Should Be Followed Whenever Using Your Appliance:

1. Do not use this appliance for any purpose other than heating. Burn solid

wood fuels only.

2. Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, engine oil,

charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or "freshen up" a fire. Keep all such liquids well away from the appliance while it is in use.

3. Do not burn garbage in your appliance, or use chemicals or fluids to start

the fire.

4. Use caution when loading fuel into the appliance after it is already burning

vigorously.

5. Do not over-fire the appliance at any time. If the appliance glows red, it is

over-fired.

6. Keep all household combustibles and appliance fuel at least 3 feet from

the appliance at all times. Store fuel in a dry place well away from the appliance.

7. Do not support or elevate the fire off of the firebrick. Burn the fire directly

on the bricks. Do not use a grate.

8. Educate your children of the dangers associated with fire and the

presence of a hot appliance. Touching a radiating surface can cause serious burns. Child guards are available through your dealer.

9. Keep loading door closed at all times except to load fuel.

10. Avoid placing logs and fire against viewing glass.

11. Maintain the door and glass seal and keep them in good condition.

12. Do not modify your combustion air control to allow more air into your

appliance.

13. Do not burn any kind of coal in this appliance.

14. Do not slam door or strike glass.

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Page 51

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Maintenance Schedule

The following schedule should be followed to insure your appliance stays in peak condition.

Weekly Maintenance: The following should be done once a week:

ASH DISPOSAL BRASS CLEANING GLASS CLEANING

Bi-Monthly Maintenance: The following should be done every two months:

DOOR AND GLASS GASKET INSPECTION LUBRICATE THE DOOR HINGE AND CONTROLS CHECK FOR CREOSOTE

Yearly Maintenance: The following should be done after each heating season:

FIREBRICK REMOVAL AND CLEANING APPLIANCE TOUCH-UP BLOWER CLEANING (If Applicable) CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR INSPECTION & CLEANING

Maintenance Instructions

ASH DISPOSAL

During constant periods of use ashes must be periodically removed from the appliance to prevent a buildup which will affect the performance and limit the fuel load capacity.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be stored on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, well away from any combustible material, pending final disposal. If the ashes are to be disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste must not be placed in this container.

BRASS CLEANING

Your Lopi Flex-95 may come with a solid brass door, ashlip trim and panel trim, which will require periodic attention to retain its luster. Use a non-abrasive polish, such as "FLITZ" on the solid brass door and clean it only when it is cool. A suitable polish is available at your dealer. The brass ashlip and panel trim should only be cleaned with soap and water. The use of ANY type of brass polish will damage the finish.

GLASS CLEANING

Clean the glass only when the appliance is cool, using a non-abrasive cleaner. If glass cracks or breaks, let the appliance cool before replacing it. DO NOT OPERATE THE APPLIANCE WITH BROKEN OR MISSING GLASS. IF THE GLASS DOES BREAK, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS IN THE SECTION TITLED "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS" FOR REPLACING THE GLASS.

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CARE AND MAINTENANCE (Continued)

DOOR AND GLASS GASKET INSPECTION

A damaged or deteriorated glass or door gasket will allow air to enter the appliance through the space between the door and firebox. This will allow smoke to enter the room and hamper efficient burning. Inspect the door gasket to make sure it is flexible and completely intact. Any torn, broken, or flattened gaskets should be replaced by following the directions in the section titled "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS".

DOOR

Hinge Pins

Remove the ten screws holding in the glass retainer with a 5/16" nut driver

Door Gasket

Glass

Door Cam & Assembly

LUBRICATE THE DOOR HINGE AND CONTROLS

It is highly recommended that you periodically lubricate any moving parts such as the door hinges and combustion air control rod. This will eliminate any scraping or squeaking noises as well as allow the parts to move freely. A high temperature lubricant, such as Permatex Industrial (R) Anti-seize lubricant, is required. Graphite or low-temperature lubricants will only last a few days.

CHECK FOR CREOSOTE

Creosote is a tarry liquid or solid resulting from the distilling of wood during the combustion process. Using wet wood or burning at lower temperatures will result in a heavier creosote deposit. Creosote vapors will condense in a relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the interior surface of the chimney and flue pipes, considerably reducing their diameter. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot and dangerous fire. The chimney should be inspected at least once every 2 months during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up of approximately 1/4" has accumulated. If this is the case, the creosote should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

Most problems with creosote are due to poor chimneys with low draft and/or cold walls, and to a low rate of burn when little heat is needed during the spring and fall months. Burning green and resinous wood also creates creosote.

To prevent creosote accumulation

1. Burn your appliance with the combustion air control wide open for 20 to 30 minutes daily during the

burning season. This will burn out creosote deposits in your appliance.

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CARE AND MAINTENANCE (Continued)

CHECK FOR CREOSOTE (Continued)

2. Burn the appliance with the combustion air control wide open for about 20 minutes every time you

add fresh wood. This allows the wood to achieve the charcoal stage faster and burns the wood vapors which might otherwise be deposited within the system.

3. Burn only seasoned, dry wood. Seasoned wood is wood that has been dried for at least one year.

4. A small, more intense fire is preferable to a large smoldering one that will deposit creosote within the

system.

5. Establish a routine for using your new appliance. Be aware that the hotter the fire, the less creosote is

deposited on the glass and chimney system. Weekly inspection and cleaning may be necessary during times of heavy appliance usage. Contact your local fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle such a fire.

6. We recommend you have your chimney system and appliance checked and cleaned by a competent

chimney sweep twice a year.

FIREBOX INSPECTION AND CLEANING

At the end of each heating season, remove all of the ash inside the firebox and check for any scale that may have built up during the heating season. Remove any scale from the inside of the firebox with a wire brush or scraper. With a flashlight check to see that all of the firebrick lining the firebox is in good condition. If any of the firebrick is cracked or broken, follow the directions in the section titled "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS" for removal and replacement of any damaged firebrick.

APPLIANCE TOUCH-UP

The outside of the appliance can be touched up using high temperature "Forrest Stove-Brite" paint, available at your dealer. This will improve the looks of your appliance, but is not necessary. To touch up paint, first sand the area to be painted with 120 grit sandpaper, clean it with water only, and dry with a clean cloth. Paint using light covering coats. The newly painted area will appear darker until the paint goes through the curing process.

BLOWER CLEANING (If Applicable)

You should remove your blower from the appliance at least twice a year for cleaning. Dust will accumulate on the blower cover as well as the blower motor and impellers. These parts should be cleaned to insure adequate flow of air and minimize strain on the motor.

Refer to the directions for installing your blower in the optional equipment section of this manual. Follow the directions in reverse order to remove the blower assembly. Brush away or vacuum all flyash that may have accumulated. Follow the directions for installing your blower to re-assemble.

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CARE AND MAINTENANCE (Continued)

CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR INSPECTION & CLEANING

It is important to periodically monitor the operation of the catalytic combustor to insure that it is functioning properly and to determine when it needs to be cleaned or replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of heating efficiency and an increase in creosote and emissions. The following is a list of ways to monitor the catalytic combustor.

Visual Inspection & Cleaning Of The Catalytic Combustor

Combustors should be visually inspected before and after each heating season to determine if physical degradation has occurred. Refer to the "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS" section of this owner's manual for removal instructions. Check the combustor for plugging. If the front of the combustor and/or mixing screen is covered with a fine dust plugging some of the openings, either vacuum it or use a soft paint brush to brush off the dust. Check to see if the combustor is cracked, broken , or deteriorated. Replace the combustor if damaged (available at your dealer).

Periodic Inspection Of Catalytic Combustor Performance

To get an indication of whether the catalyst is working, compare the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when the smoke is being routed through the combustor to the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when the smoke is not routed through the combustor (bypass open mode). Use the following three steps to determine your catalytic combustor's performance:

Step 1. Light fireplace. Let the fireplace reach operating temperature (20-30 minutes).

Step 2. With smoke routed through the catalyst (bypass closed - pushed in), go outside and

observe the emissions leaving the chimney.

Step 3. Open the bypass and again observe the emissions leaving the chimney. You should

see significantly more smoke when the exhaust is not routed through the combustor (bypass mode - pulled out). Be careful not to confuse smoke with steam from wet wood.

If you can't operate with combustor temperatures in excess of 500 degrees F. there will be excessive smoke leaving the chimney. You should check to make sure that your firewood is dry and seasoned. Wet or green wood will cause the combustor to not light off until the moisture is evaporated. Because the combustor is not working under these conditions, excessive amounts of creosote can be deposited in the chimney system.

Using the Temperature Gage To Check The Catalytic Combustor

Visual inspection of the catalytic combustor should provide a suitable method for monitoring this component in your fireplace on a yearly basis. For more frequent checks the temperature gage on the front of the appliance can be used to monitor the catalytic combustor.

Your Lopi is equipped with a temperature probe built in. After warming up, a properly functioning combustor typically maintains temperatures between 500 and 1000 degrees F. If combustor temperatures are not in excess of 500 degrees F. refer to the section "Visual Inspection & Cleaning Of The Catalytic Combustor" above to determine if any clogging is occuring.

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BEFORE CALLING FOR SERVICE

SAVE TIME AND MONEY - CHECK THIS LIST BEFORE YOU CALL FOR SERVICE

To eliminate unnecessary service calls, first read all the instructions in this manual carefully. The following checklist provides possible solutions to common occurrences that are not the result of defective workmanship or materials in this appliance.

If you do have a problem that you cannot fix yourself, call the dealer where you purchased your appliance. When calling, have this manual handy with the model, serial number and purchase date of your appliance.

Problem Possible Cause Don't Call for Service

Until You Check

Start-up fire extinguishes itself.

Lazy orange smoky flame. ¥ Bad Fuel.

Smoke smell inside house. ¥ Restricted chimney or

¥ Combustion air inlet

blocked.

¥ Combustion air control

closed.

¥ Restricted Flue.

¥ Poor Draft.

reverse flow (down draft).

¥ Air leak from faulty door or

glass gasket.

¥ Door is out of adjustment.

¥ Combustion air inlet is not

blocked.

¥ Combustion air control is

open.

¥ Wood is dry & seasoned. ¥ Chimney is clean &

unrestricted.

¥ Sufficient chimney length &

correct size.

¥ Chimney is clean &

unrestricted.

¥ Chimney is not receiving a

down draft due to wind or other obstruction.

¥ Door and glass gasket are

in good condition and sealing properly.

¥ Door is aligned with the

opening so the door gasket makes an airtight fit around the opening.

Appliance won't shut down. ¥ Air leak from faulty door or

¥ Door is out of alignment.

glass gasket.

¥ Door and glass gasket are

in good condition and sealing properly.

¥ Door is aligned with the

opening so the door gasket makes an airtight fit around the opening.

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REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

Several components inside your appliance are serviceable by you. These components are usually easy to remove and replace without special tools. Before you attempt to carry out any of these steps, be sure to read through the entire section. To order new parts, use the chart below to order the appropriate part number through your dealer. Use only parts from your dealer made specifically for your appliance.

Replacement Parts

Part Name Part Number Part Description

Door Gasket 90-1512 Fiberglass Glass Gasket 90-1496 Fiberglass Door Glass 90-1421 5 mm Firebrick (note size) 90-4000 Secondary Air Tube 92-5005 Includes Pins Front Baffle Support 90-5028 Rear Baffle Support 90-5029 Bypass Damper Adjustment Tool 90-2010 Door Handle 90-2052 Spring Door Cam 90-2040 Cast Brass Air Control Handle 90-2057 Spring Bypass Damper Handle 90-2013 Owner's Manual 92-3006 Cast Glass Retainer 90-2020 Air Control/Plate with Springs 90-2060 Catalytic Combustor With Gasket 90-5060*

* Catalytic Combustor Replacement Information The catalytic combustor supplied with this appliance is a Corning, Inc. Model 2.5" X 2.6" X13.1", cell

density = 16 per square inch. Consult the combustor warranty supplied with this appliance. Warranty claims for the combustor should be addressed to:

Corning, Incorporated Technical Products Division Corning, New York 14831 (607) 974-9000

Removal Instructions

The remaining text in this section details the items below. Make sure to follow the directions closely when performing one of the procedures. If re-assembly directions are not given with the instructions, reassemble by following the directions in reverse order. All of these procedures can be done without special tools.

¥ Removing and Replacing the Glass ¥ Removing and Replacing the Glass Gasket ¥ Removing and Replacing the Door Gasket ¥ Removing and Replacing the Catalytic Combustor ¥ Removing and Replacing the Firebricks ¥ Removing and Replacing the Secondary Air Tube

If you have any warranty questions concerning your combustor please direct your questions to Corning, Inc. You will be given information about how to package and return your combustor.

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REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS (Continued)

Removing and Replacing the Glass

DO NOT OPERATE THE APPLIANCE WITH BROKEN OR MISSING GLASS. IF THE GLASS DOES BREAK, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS BELOW FOR REPLACING THE GLASS.

To replace the glass, first remove the door cam assembly by removing the nut with a 9/16" wrench. Then remove the ten screws holding in the glass retainger with a 5/16" nut driver. Replace only with Neoceram 5mm thick, available from your dealer.

Unscrew the ten screws on the glass bracket with a 5/16" nut driver. Pull the glass retainer, glass, and glass gasket away from the door. Replace the glass with Travis Industries Inc. replacement glass (available at your dealer). The replacement glass is high temperature, high shock ceramic glass. When re-installing, make sure the gasket is properly aligned ..

DOOR

Hinge Pins

Remove the ten screws holding in the glass retainer with a 5/16" nut driver

Door Cam & Assembly

Door Gasket

Glass

Removing and Replacing the Glass Gasket

A damaged or deteriorated glass gasket will allow air to enter the appliance through the space between the door and glass. This may cause smoke to enter the room and hamper efficient burning. To replace the glass gasket, follow the directions for removal of the glass and when re-installing, place the new gasket in place.

Removing and Replacing the Door Gasket

A damaged or deteriorated door gasket will allow air to enter the appliance through the space between the door and firebox. This will allow smoke to enter the room and hamper efficient burning. The door gasket is held in place with special cement made to withstand extreme heat. To remove the gasket, carefully pull the gasket away from the door and scrape any excess cement off the door. To replace, use the manufacturer's gasket and cement (provided by your dealer) and re-attach the gasket, making sure it is aligned properly around the opening.

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REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS (Continued)

Removing and Replacing the Catalytic Combustor

Before replacing the catalytic combustor, make sure it is inoperable by conducting the steps for testing the catalytic combustor in the section "CARE & MAINTENANCE". The catalytic combustor is fragile, and should be handled carefully. Before attempting to remove the catalytic combustor, allow the fireplace to sit for approximately 24 hours without a fire. Refer to the illustration below while removing the catalytic combustor.

Catalytic Combustor (Slides into the holder from the front)

Temperature Gage Probe (Inserts into the Catalytic Combustor)

Catalytic Combustor Temperature Gage

1. The first step in removing the catalytic combustor is to slide the probe that is connected to the

temperature gage from catalytic combustor. Remove the door by opening it 90 degrees and pulling it upwards. Make sure to grasp the door by both ends. It is heavy and can be damaged. The illustration below shows how the probe slides into the catalytic combustor. With one hand reach into the unit and hold the probe. With the other hand grasp the temperature gage. Making sure the probe comes straight out of the catalytic combustor, pull with both hands to remove the probe. The left side of the catalytic combustor may need to be moved slightly to allow the probe to be removed easily.

TOP VIEW

Catalytic Combustor

Firebox Walls Temperature Probe Temperature Gage

Move the left side of the catalytic combustor forward or backwards so the probe can slide out easily.

Slide the Temperature Probe forward until it clears the catalytic combustor.

2. With the probe removed, the catalytic combustor can be slid forward and out of the holder that keeps it

in place. There is gasketing that goes around the catalytic combustor that must be replaced when the combustor is replaced. Make sure the gasketing is inserted properly and seals the area around the catalytic combustor.

3. To replace the catalytic combustor, follow the directions in reverse order.

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REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS (Continued)

Removing and Replacing the Firebricks

The firebricks inside your wood-burning appliance are used to store the radiating heat and create a more thorough combustion inside the firebox. Occasionally one of them will crack and require replacement. The directions below are divided into three sections, each section addressing either the baffle (top) firebricks, side and back firebricks, or floor (bottom) firebricks. Before any bricks are removed, make sure the appliance is cool and cleaned out. The chart below describes the number and size of bricks by placement.

# of Firebricks

Full Size

1/2" with a 1 1/4"

thickness)

(9" by 4

Cut Size (9" by 3 7/8"

with a 1 1/4" thickness)

Cut Size (4 7/8" by 4

1/2" with a 1 1/4" thickness)

Diagonal Size (9" by

4 1/4-2" with a 1 1/4"

thickness)

Floor (bottom) 6 2 2 Side and Back 11 1 Baffle (top) 5 1

REMOVING THE BACK FIREBRICKS

1. Make sure the appliance is cool and

cleaned out.

Metal clip that holds the back firebricks in place.

2. Remove the door by opening it 90

degrees and pulling it upwards. Make sure to grasp the door by both ends. It is heavy and can be damaged.

3. Remove the left back firebrick by

rotating it out from its lower edge (see illustration to the right). Do not use any object to pry the firebrick, for this may cause the firebrick to chip or crack.

Cut Firebrick 9" by 3 7/8" with a 1 1/4" thickness

4. Remove the rest of the back bricks, one

by one, following the order listed in the illustration to the right.

5. To replace the back firebricks, follow

these directions in reverse order, placing the bricks snug against the back wall of the firebox.

REMOVING THE FLOOR FIREBRICKS

1. Follow the directions for removing the

back firebricks.

2. Remove the floor firebricks in the order

listed in the illustration to the right.

3. To replace the firebricks, follow the

directions in reverse order. Make sure to place the firebricks snug against the firebricks that line the side of the firebox.

4 1/2"

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Diagonal Firebrick 9" by 4 1/2-2" with

a 1 1/4" thickness

Cut Firebrick 9" by 3 7/8" with a 1 1/4" thickness

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REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS (Continued)

Removing and Replacing the Firebricks (Continued)

REMOVING THE SIDE FIREBRICKS

1. Follow the directions for removing

the back and floor firebricks.

2. Once the floor firebricks are

removed, the side firebricks can be pivoted out from behind the metal clips that hold the firebricks in place. Grasp the bricks, one at a time, from the bottom and pivot

them out from the bottom. See the diagram to the right to see the order of removal.

3. To replace the side and back

firebricks, follow these directions in reverse order, placing the bricks snug against each other and against the walls of the firebox.

REMOVING THE BAFFLE (TOP) FIREBRICKS & COMPONENTS

1. Make sure the appliance

is cool and cleaned out.

2. Remove the door by

opening it and pulling it upwards. Make sure to grasp the door by both

ends. It is heavy and can be damaged.

Metal clips that hold the side firebricks in place.

Ledge at rear of firebox

3. The illustration to the right

shows the order of removal for the baffle firebricks. The rear three bricks can be removed by sliding them to either side, rotating the back end down, then twisting them so they are on end and then feeding them out (see the illustration on the following page).

Cut Firebrick 4 7/8" by 4 1/2" with a 1 1/4" thickness

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Front Baffle Support

Rear Baffle Support

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REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS (Continued)

Removing and Replacing the Firebricks (Continued)

REMOVING THE BAFFLE (TOP) FIREBRICKS & COMPONENTS (Cont.)

TOP VIEW OF REAR BAFFLE FIREBRICKS

Back Row of Baffle Firebrick

Rear Baffle Support

Ledge at rear of firebox

First, slide the firebrick to the side of the firebox.

Rotate the back end down.

Twist the brick so that it is on end and then feed it out.

4. With the rear baffle firebricks removed, the rear baffle support can be slid backwards approximately

one inch. This will allow the forward baffle firebricks to be slid out through the space between the front and rear baffle support.

5. The front and rear baffle support angles can be removed at this time if they need removal.

6. To replace the baffle components, follow the directions in reverse order.

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REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS (Continued)

Removing and Replacing the Secondary Air Tube

The secondary air tube has holes and runs along the top of the firebox. Over time it may wear and become ineffective. The secondary air tube should be replaced if it cracks or shows severe deterioration, because it supplies air to the firebox that allows for a more efficient fire. This part is available from your dealer.

Before removing the secondary air tube, remove the baffle firebricks and center baffle.

Secondary Air Tube

Air Induction System (Welded to side of Firebox)

To remove the

Collar

secondary air tube, first remove the two pins located on the right side

Pins that hold Secondary Air Tube and Collar in Place

of the firebox that holds the tube in place. These pins are removed by using a screwdriver or needlenose pliers to pry them out of their holes. The pins are held in place by flanges on the pins that expand once they are pushed into the hole. Therefore, you

Slide collar to the left after removing both of the pins.

Short Tube that is welded to the Air Induction System

may have to pry with some amount of force when trying to remove them.

One pin holds the secondary air tube to a collar while the other pin holds the collar to a short tube welded to the air induction system. Once both pins are removed, the collar can be slid to the left and the secondary air tube and collar can be pulled down and away from the left side. To replace the secondary air tube, place the collar on the secondary air tube, insert the secondary air tube into the hole on the left side of the firebox, and slide the collar over to the right so it slides over the short tube that is welded to the air induction system on the right side. Then line up the secondary air tube and collar so the holes for the pins line up and insert both new pins that are included with the replacement air tube kit.

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5-YEAR WARRANTY

TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. warrants the LOPI Flex-95 appliance to be defect-free in material and workmanship for five (5) years from the date of purchase, with the exception of the glass, catalytic combustor, paint, refractory, removable baffle parts and blowers. The blowers and removable baffle parts are warranted for one (1) year from the date of purchase to be defect - free in material and workmanship. The glass, paint and refractory are not warranted.

Exclusions to this limited warranty include: Injury, malfunction to the product, loss, damage, defect, failure to function due to accident, negligence, misuse, improper installation, alteration or adjustment of the manufacturer's settings of components, lack of proper and regular maintenance, damage incurred while the appliance is in transit, alteration, or act of God.

This limited warranty excludes damage caused by normal wear and tear, such as paint discoloration or chipping, worn or torn gasketing, eroded or cracked refractory, etc. Also excluded is damage to the appliance caused by abuse, improper installation, the use of fuel or fuel loads other than specified by the manufacturer or use not set forth in the OwnerÕs Manual. An over-fired condition will cause warped metal parts and discolored or burned-off paint.

TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. is free of liability for any damages caused by the appliance, as well as inconvenience expenses, material and labor charges incurred by the removal or reinstallation of any LOPI appliance. Incidental or consequential damages are not covered by this warranty. In some states, the exclusion of incidental or consequential damage may not apply.

This warranty does not cover any loss or damage incurred by the use or removal of any component or apparatus to or from the LOPI appliance appliance without the express written permission of TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. and bearing a TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. label of approval.

Any statement or representation of LOPI products and their performance contained in LOPI advertising, packaging literature, or printed material is not part of this limited warranty.

This warranty is automatically voided if the applianceÕs serial number has been removed or altered in any way.

Only the original purchaser of an LOPI appliance is covered by this warranty. If the appliance is used for commercial purposes, it is excluded from this warranty.

No dealer, distributor, or similar person has the authority to represent or warrant LOPI products beyond the terms contained within this warranty. TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. assumes no liability for such warranties or representations.

THIS LIMITED WARRANTY IS THE ONLY WARRANTY SUPPLIED BY TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., THE MANUFACTURER OF THE APPLIANCES. ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE HEREBY EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED AND PURCHASERÕS RECOURSE IS EXPRESSLY LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES SET FORTH HEREIN.

This warranty is limited to the time frame set forth above. In some states, time limitations on warranties do not apply.

HOW TO USE YOUR TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. FIVE-YEAR WARRANTY: If you find your appliance to be defective in workmanship or material within a 5-year period from the date of purchase contact your local authorized LOPI dealer. If your dealer is unable to repair your appliance's defect, you may process a warranty claim through TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., including the name of the dealership where you purchased the appliance, a copy of your receipt showing the date of the appliance's purchase, and the serial number on your appliance. At that time, you will be asked to ship your appliance, freight charges prepaid, to TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., at its option, will repair or replace, free of charge, your LOPI appliance if it is found to be defective in material or workmanship within the time frame stated within this limited warranty. In addition, TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. will refurbish your appliance at no charge to you, restoring its appearance and condition. TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. will ship your appliance, freight charges prepaid by TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., to your regional distributor, or dealership.

To register your TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. Five-Year Warranty, complete the enclosed warranty card and mail it within ten (10) days of the appliance purchase date to: TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., 10850 117th Place N.E., Kirkland, WA 98033.

OTHER RIGHTS:

This warranty provides you with certain legal rights. You may have additional rights, which vary from state to state, in regards to this warranty.

APPLIANCE SERIAL NUMBER

DATE OF PURCHASE

Complete and save

DEALER NAME AND ADDRESS

Travis Industries, Inc. reserves the right to change, without notice, product features or specifications described.

for your records

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SAFETY LABEL

The following is a safety label that is attached to your appliance for installation purposes. It is included here in case it is removed or becomes unreadable. For discrepancies in listings between the label and this manual, follow the listings in this manual.

Page 64