Tower
Hobbies®
guarantees
this kit to be
free from defects
in both material and
workmanship at the
WARRANTY
date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover any
component parts damaged by
use or modica tion. In no case shall
Tower Hobbies’ liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Tower Hobbies reserves the right to change
or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the nal
assembly or material used for nal assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the nal user-assembled
product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the
user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the
use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in
new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at
the address below:
Hobby Services • 3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1 • Champaign IL 61822 • USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as
possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem
will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Tower
Hobbies Ultimate bipe. In spite of its aerobatic appearance, the
Ultimate is a cinch to takeoff, y and land and is unexpectedly
stable. But when you’re ready to lay down some aerobatics
the Ultimate is ready to respond when it’s time to move the
sticks to the corners!
Powered by a .46 2-stroke glow, the Ultimate ies surprisingly
well. But if aggresive aerobatics is your preference a 2-stroke
glow is not the optimum choice. With a 2-stroke the Ultimate
still performs all the expected sport aerobatic maneuvers
such as loops (inside and outside), rolls, point rolls, stalls,
spins, inverted ight and even knife-edge ight. Even if the
Ultimate doesn’t have unlimited vertical with a 2-stroke, a
2-stroke is still the lightest setup which you will actually be
able to feel when it’s in the air.
Because of the large propellers it can swing, the Ultimate
becomes a monster with a Rim re .55 and a 6S battery.
Performance when powered by an O.S. .72 is a close second.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Utimate ARF visit the Tower Hobbies web site at towerhobbies.
com and visit the page for the Ultimate ARF. If there is new
technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice”
box will appear on the page.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Radio/Servos
The Ultimate can be own with a 4-channel radio, but a
computer radio such as the Tactic TTX650 is recommended
because of the simplicity and exibility a computer radio offers
in addition to the convenience of multiple model memory:
* If powering your Ultimate with a brushless electric motor,
you may power the receiver and servos from the BEC in
the ESC, so a receiver battery or on/off receiver switch
will be not required.
The Ultimate was designed for mini servos, but regular servos
with minimum torque of 55oz-in [4.0 kg-cm] may be used
simply by enlarging the servo mounts in the wing and fuselage.
Tactic TSX25 mini digital high-speed 2 ball bearing servos
(TACM0225) or Tactic TSX20 mini high-speed 2 ball bearing
servos (TACM0220) are recommended.
The Ultimate may be own with two or four aileron servos.
With two servos, the ailerons in the top wing are operated
by pushrods connected directly to the bottom ailerons. With
four servos, each aileron is operated by its own servo. The
advantage of two servos is economy and less weight. The
advantage of four servos is increased response and precision.
2
SERVO CHART
Electricpowered
Wing
conguration
Total number
of servos
required
The quantity and lengths of servo extensions can get
complicated depending upon whether you want to mix all four
aileron servos electronically, or mix them mechanically with
Y-harnesses, and whether you plan to remove the wings for
transport (then, you’ll want a servo wire connection from the
top aileron servos alongside one of the rear cabane struts that
can be easily connected and disconnected). The instruction
manual illustrates both two aileron servos in the bottom wing
only and four aileron servos in the top and bottom wings, but
for both options all the aileron servos were connected into
one channel with Y-harnesses as listed below.
SERVO EXTENSIONS and Y-HARNESS for
CONNECTING AILERON SERVOS INTO ONE CHANNEL
20"[508mm]
Y-h arness
5"
[130—150 mm]
Y-h arness
—
4 aileron
servos
6475
2 Aileron Servos4 Aileron Servos
(1) TACM2500(2) TACM2500
6"
Not Required(1) VNRM1668
2 aileron
servos
Glow-
powered
4 aileron
servos
2 aileron
servos
in the instruction manual because it is compact, durable,
programmable and features data logging. The discharge
wires from the ESC require lengthening to reach the battery
and order numbers for the wire are provided below.
❍ 42-60-480 RimFire .55 (GPMG4715)
❍ Brushless motor mount for medium motors
(GPMG1255)
❍ M3 x 6 screws for mounting motor to motor mount
(DTXC8650 or HPIC0351)
❍ APC 16 x 8 thin E prop (APCQ4015)
❍ Castle Creations Edge Lite 75 (CSEM1200)
❍ (2) FlightPower 3S 3800 30C (FPWP3383) and Great
Planes Series adapter (GPMM3143)
OR
❍ FlightPower 6S 3800mAh 30C (FPWP3386)
❍ Adhesive-back Velcoro for mounting batteries
(GPMQ4480)
❍ 10 gauge silicone wire to extend discharge wires
from ESC
➊ CSEC0030 3’ black
➋ CSEC0031 3’ red
➌ 3/16" heat shrink tubing (GPMM1056)
➍ T-style Star connector (HCAM4001)
LiPo Battery Charger
Glow Engine & Accessories for Glow
The Ultimate is suited for a .46 – .55 2-stroke or .72 – .81
4-stroke. Because the engine is side-mounted, 2-stroke
engines require a Bisson Pitts-style muf er:
❍ O.S. FS72-a 4-stroke with muf er (OSMG0877)
❍ *O.S. 46AXII 2-stroke with muf er (OSMG0548)
❍ O.S. 55AX ABL 2-stroke with muf er (OSMG0557)
❍ Bisson Pitts-style muf er (BISG4046)
❍ 1/4" [6.4mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000)
❍ Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
❍ 3’ [.9m] medium silicone fuel line (GPMQ4131)
❍ Optional: Aluminum fuel line plug (GPMQ4166)
❍ Dubro Fuel Clunk Standard (DUBQ0637)
❍ Suitable propeller for your engine
* With the O.S. .46 AXII an APC 12.5 x 6 (APCQ9905)
was preferred
Brushless Electric Motor
The electric setup for the Ultimate is straightforward: a Great
Planes ElectriFly RimFire .55 on a 6S battery in the 3800mAh
range with a 75A ESC. Propeller selection depends upon your
preference and ying style, but we preferred the APCX 16 x
8E (full discussion on prop selection on page 32). A Castle
Creations Edge Lite 75 is also recommended and illustrated
To charge a 6S 3800mAh LiPo at 1C, a charger capable of
at least 95 watts is required (6S x 4.2V/cell = 25.2V x 3.8 A =
95 Watts). The Triton2 EQ is just enough charger with 100W
output AC and 120W output DC (GPMM3156).
ADHESIVES. HARDWARE AND
OTHER ACCESSORIES
Other than common hobby tools here is a list of the rest of
the items required:
❍ 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6043)
❍ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❍ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❍ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❍ Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
❍ Thin CA (GPMR6001)
❍ Medium CA (GPMR6007)
❍ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❍ A #50 (.070") drill (for drilling out servo arms for the
pushrod wires)
❍ Optional: 1/5-scale Sport pilot (GPMQ9015)
❍ Optional: Zap Adhesives Formula 560 Canopy Glue
(PAAR3300)
3
A Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) is also indispensable
for working on your Ultimate.
A covering iron with a cover sock may be required for
tightening and re bonding the covering to the model that may
have loosened between the time the plane was manufactured
and the time the model was removed from the box. The 21st
Century iron is preferred because of its long cord, contoured
shoe and precisely adjustable temperature range. A trim iron
is also handy for detailed covering tasks.
❍ Coverite 21st Century Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❍ Coverite 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)
❍ Coverite 21st Century Trim Seal Tool (COVR2750)
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of
acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written
in the Kit Contents list.
Hobbico Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1 Ph: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Champaign, IL 61822 Fax: (217) 398-7721
Fuselage set
Upper wing set
Lower wing set
Tail surface set
Cowl
Landing gear
Wheel pants
Interplane struts
Cabanes
Canopy
Hatch
Belly pan
Thumb screw set
Lower wing bolts (2)
Spinner
Fuel tank
Decals
Tail wheel set
Engine mount set
1
8
1. Cowl
2. Fuselage
3. Canopy Hatch
4. Top Wing
5. Bottom Wing
6. Horizontal Stabilizer
CONTENTS
2
9
11
10
7. Vertical Stabilizer
8. Hardware / Wood Parts
9. Cabane Struts
10. Hardware
11. Wing Struts
12. Wheel Pants
3
6
4
5
12
13
18
14
16
15
7
17
13. Main Landing Gear
14. Canopy
15. Fuel Tank
16. Main Wheels
17. Spinner
18. Pushrods
4
PREPARATIONS
NOTE: If you’re already familiar with iron-on coverings, you
may nd that the covering on the Ultimate requires less heat
than other coverings you’ve worked with. Too much heat
causes seams and edges to separate as the covering tightens.
The optimum temperature measured on the surface of a cover
sock on a cover iron is about 280ºF [140ºC] which requires
a dial setting of about 300ºF [150ºC] or “medium” heat on
most covering irons. You can go a little higher if necessary,
but be careful around seams and overlapping edges. If the
covering blisters up and cannot be pressed back down, the
iron may be too hot, or you are leaving it in one location for
too long—try reducing the heat or moving the iron a little
faster. Another option is perforating the blister in a few areas
with a #11 hobby blade.
A covering iron with a cover sock is preferred over a heat
gun. With a covering iron you can apply heat only where
required. With a heat gun you may inadvertently overheat a
seam causing separation.
Pull hard on each aileron to check the hinges. Apply thin CA
to any hinges that may not be secure.
Perform the steps 3 through 7 if installing aileron servos
in the top wing.
1. Use a covering iron with a cover sock to tighten any
❏
loose covering. Wherever the covering is attached to wood,
press down on the iron to thoroughly bond the covering to
the balsa underneath. Where possible, reach inside the model
and support sheeted areas while tightening the covering to
prevent the sheeting from bending inward. If you’ll be using
the top wing aileron servos, also be sure to securely bond
the covering to the structure on the bottom of the top wing
around the aileron hatch openings. (The area of the hatch has
been outlined with a felt-tip pen for illustration in the image.)
2. Before proceeding with assembly, now would be a good
❏
time to make sure all the hinges in the ailerons are secure.
3. Use a hobby knife (or a 3/8" brass tube sharpened on
❏
the end) to cut a hole in the bottom of the top wing where
shown for the servo wire.
4. Use a straightedge as a guide to cut the covering
❏
approximately 3/16" [5mm] inside the edges of the aileron
hatch openings.
5
5. Slit the corners of the covering up to the corners of
❏
the hatch opening.
6. Use a trim iron to bond the covering down inside
❏
the openings.
8. A few paper towels stacked on top of each other cut
❏
into small squares will come in handy for wiping off excess
CA and/or epoxy as you proceed with assembly. For epoxy
clean up later, dampen the squares with denatured alcohol.
9. Glue the wood dowels into the bottom wing.
❏
7. Cut the covering from the servo arm openings and
❏
the four screw holes in the corners of the top aileron hatch
covers. Use a trim seal tool to seal the covering around the
edges of the openings.
10. If powering your Ultimate with a glow engine, fuelproof
❏
any areas that may be exposed to raw fuel or oily engine
exhaust such as the openings in the fuselage at the front
and back of the bottom wing, the front of the bottom wing,
inside the belly pan around the wing bolt holes and the back
of the rewall.
6
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Install the Aileron Servos
Part of installing the aileron servos is deciding how you are
going to connect the servos to your receiver. If you’re using
only the two servos in the bottom wing you can connect them
with a standard Y-connector and guide the male end of the Y
that goes into the receiver out the wing. Or, you may connect
the servos to separate channels in your receiver mixing them
electronically through programming in your transmitter.
But if you’re using four servos there are even more ways to mix
the servos depending on how many channels are available in
your radio. One way would be to connect each aileron servo
to separate channels in the receiver, controlling them with a
programmable mix. The advantage here would be the ability
to independently adjust each servo’s sub trim and end points
for the ultimate in precision and tuning. But then at least a
7-channel receiver would be required and all the additional
servo extensions to connect each one to the receiver.
Another way is with a standard 2-aileron wing mix found
under the “wing type” mix in most transmitters. This mixes
two aileron servos, but then you will have to “Y” the top and
bottom servos on each wing half and will not have the ability
to adjust the sub trims and end points of each servo.
But since all options (other than controlling the servos
separately with four channels) eliminate adjusting the servos
independently with end points and sub trims, we just kept it
simple and “Y’d” the servos in the top wing to each other and
“Y’d” the servos in the bottom wing to each other, then “Y’d”
the “Y’s” together inside the fuselage into a single aileron
channel. The advantage with this option is only one servo
wire coming from the top wing which is simpler and more
aesthetically pleasing.
The following instructions illustrate installing and
hooking up the ailerons in the bottom wing. If installing
servos in the top wing too, simply perform the steps
for all four servos.
2. Hold two
❏
blocks to the servo
with thin cardstock
between the blocks
and the servo and
under the servo
between the servo
and your workbench
as shown. Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] holes into
the blocks for the
servo mounting
screws.
3. Make another
❏
aileron servo/mount
block assembly
mirroring the first
and drill the holes
and mount to the
servo.
1. Trim one of the 5/16" x 9/16" x 3/4" [8 x 15 x 20mm]
❏
servo mount blocks to accommodate the servo wire where
it exits the servo case.
4. Apply 30-minute epoxy to the bottom of the mount
❏
blocks where they contact the hatch covers. Also wipe a
lm of epoxy onto the hatch covers where the mount blocks
will land. Wait a few minutes for the epoxy to soak into the
mount blocks, apply more epoxy if needed, then position
the servos on the hatch covers so the servo arms will be
centered in the cutouts. Use weights or clamps to hold the
servo blocks to the hatches until the epoxy hardened.
7
If installing all four aileron servos, this is what the servos and
hatch covers should look like.
5. Connect the bottom aileron servos to your receiver
❏
(with or without a Y-harness; whichever is your preference)
with a battery and turn on your transmitter to power up the
system so you can operate the servos.
6. Fit servo arms on the servos positioned so the arms
❏
will be angled forward approximately as shown—it’s more
important to have the arms on each servo angled the same
than it is to have any precise angle. The arms just need to
be angled forward so the pushrods will be approximately
perpendicular with the servo arms when connected to the
control horn on the aileron.
7. Cut the unused arms from the servo arm and enlarge the
❏
holes in the servo arm with a #50 (.070") drill for the pushrod
wires. Fasten the arms to the servos with the screws that
came with the servos.
8. Cut the covering from one of the servo wire holes in
❏
the top of the bottom wing. Use the string in the wing to pull
one side of the 20" [508mm] Y-harness through the hole and
out one of the aileron hatch openings.
9. Connect the Y-harness to the servo and mount the
❏
hatch/servo to the wing with M2.3 x 8 washer-head screws.
8
10. Pull the other end of the Y-harness through the other
1/16" [1.5 mm]
Servo Arm
90º Connector
M2 x 10
For Bottom Ailerons Only
Small Control Horn
Centered Behind
Mounting Plate
❏
side of the wing and mount the other hatch.
Hook Up the Ailerons
Refer to this image while mounting the aileron servos
and hooking up the ailerons.
Do the left wing rst…
1. Thread a clevis about fteen full turns onto a 4-3/4"
❏ ❏
[120mm] aileron pushrod. Make a second assembly the
same way.
3. If not installing aileron servos in the top wing, mount
❏ ❏
a small control horn to the top surface of the bottom ailerons
in the location illustrated in the image above and in the
illustration on the bottom of the column to the left.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
Install the Horizontal Stabilizer
and Vertical Stabilizer
2. Bend and cut the pushrods to the correct length,
❏ ❏
then connect the aileron servos to the ailerons using the
hardware shown. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the ailerons
for the M2 x 12 screws. After installing the screws, remove
the screws, add a few drops of thin CA to the holes, allow to
harden, then reinstall the screws. Adjust the clevises on the
pushrods so the ailerons will be centered when the servos
are centered.
1. If you haven’t already done so, remove the masking tape
❏
holding the elevators to the horizontal stabilizer. Any residual
glue from the masking tape can be removed with naptha
(lighter uid) and a small paper towel square. If necessary,
use your covering iron to tighten the covering.
2. Test- t the elevator joiner wire to the elevators. If the
❏
elevators do not align with each other (as in the image), use
pliers to “tweak” the joiner to get the elevators aligned.
9
3. Temporarily bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage with the
A = A'
A
A'
❏
two included nylon wing bolts. Slide the horizontal stabilizer
into position and view the model from behind. Check the
alignment between the stab and the wing. If necessary,
remove the stab and lightly sand the slot to align the stab
with the wing.
4. Perform a trial-run of nal stab alignment before doing
❏
it with glue;
B. Once the stab is centered, insert pins into the trailing
edge tightly against both sides of the fuselage to lock the
trailing edge into place.
A. Center the stab laterally taking measurements from both
sides of the fuselage.
C. Insert a pin into the fuselage centered over the stringer at
the front of the hatch opening. Use an inelastic string around
the pin with a line drawn on a strip of masking tape to check
rotational stab alignment. Slide the tape along the string and
rotate the stab until both tips align with the line on the tape.
10
5. Remove one of the pins from the trailing edge and slide
❏
out the stab. Install the elevator joiner wire into the stab slot
in the fuselage, making certain to keep the correct orientation
so the elevators will align when re tted to the joiner.
6. Add a liberal amount of 30-minute epoxy to the top and
❏
bottom of the exposed balsa in the middle of the stab. Be
certain not to forget to install the elevator joiner wire
into the stab slot as instructed in the previous step! Slide
the stab into place removing excess epoxy as you proceed.
Reinsert the pin to align the trailing edge and make sure the
stab is properly aligned as previously described with the string
and tape. Make sure you’ve cleaned up all residual epoxy
and do not disturb the model until the epoxy has hardened.
Hinge the Elevators and Rudder
1. Add a small drop of medium CA to the end of one of the
❏
hinges. Insert the hinge halfway into one of the hinge slots in
one of the elevators—do not use any CA accelerator! This
will be just enough CA to keep the hinge from shifting while
joining the control surfaces to the stab and n.
2. Tack-glue the rest of the hinges into the hinge slots in
❏
both elevators.
7. Te s t- t the vertical stabilizer ( n) into position. Make
❏
any adjustments necessary for a good t and to make sure
the n is vertical, then permanently glue it into place with
30 -minute epoxy. Use T-pins or clamps as necessary to close
any gaps between the n and the llet blocks. Any pinholes
from T-pins can be reduced later with a covering iron.
3. After the CA has hardened and all the hinges are in
❏
place, test- t the elevators to the stab and joiner. Make sure
the surfaces move easily and smoothly.
11
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