Tower Hobbies Trainer 40 Instruction Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DIE PATTERNS ...............................................................4&5

ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION..............................6

GET READY TO BUILD .......................................................8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES .............................................10

BUILD THE FUSELAGE.....................................................13

BUILD THE WING............................................................20

FINAL ASSEMBL Y..............................................................32

FINISHING.......................................................................40

FINAL CONTROL HOOKUPS...........................................46

PREFLIGHT.......................................................................52

FLYING .............................................................................54

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION TO

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS.

Your Trainer 40 is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like an actual airplane. Because
of its realistic performance, the Trainer 40, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we
recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with
assembly and during your first flights. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to solo. Your
local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors.

WARRANTY

Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from defects in
both materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover an y component parts damaged by use
or modification. In no case shall Tower’s liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Tower reserves the
right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Tower has no control ov er the final assembly or material
used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user­assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability
associated with the use of this product, they are advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to
Tower Hobbies.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK BEFORE BEGINNING
CONSTRUCTION. THIS BOOKLET CONTAINS WARNINGS AND
PRECAUTIONS REGARDING THE USE OF THIS PRODUCT.

2

® ®

TTOOWWEERR TTRRAAIINNEERR 4400

RADIO CONTROLLED MODEL AIRPLANE KIT

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

O

UR ALL-TIME FAVORITE TRAINER

...

N

OW IN KIT FORM

TTR4P03 V 1.0

Wing Span: 55 in.

Wing Area: 618 sq. in. Weight: 5 to 5.5 lb.

Length: 44.5 in. Wing Loading: 18 to 21 oz./sq. ft.

Engine: .40 2-stroke

Entire Contents © Copyright 1998

™

3

You can also contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across the
country. Through any one of them, instructor training programs
and insured newcomer training are available.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
TEL: [phone]
FAX: [phone]

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

Thank you for purchasing the Tower Hobbies Trainer 40!

The Tower Hobbies Trainer 40 is an excellent trainer model designed
to get you off to a great start in learning to build and fly. After you
learn to fly, the Trainer 40 has enough maneuverability to perform
most aerobatics and provide many hours of flying enjoyment. The
easy construction, great lines and included decals make it easy for
you to build a great-looking model.

The Tower Trainer 40 is designed to fly as well as it looks. Its
thick, flat-bottom wing offers strong lift at slow speeds and great
strength. The computer designed, interlocking structure allows
you to build a straight and true model with confidence-boosting
flight qualities.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If any
parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this model, please call us at
[phone] and we’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (a white sticker on the end of the carton)
and have them ready when calling. Our e-mail address is:

[e-mail]

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the plan and instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as this may result in an unsafe
or unflyable model. In a few cases the plan and instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances you should
assume the plan and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take your time to build straight, true and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class condition,
the correct engine size and correct components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other components so the
model operates properly on the ground and in the air.

5. Y ou must test the operation of the model before the first flight
and each successive flight, to insure all equipment is
operating and to make sure the model has remained
structurally sound. Be sure to check external nylon clevises
often. Replace them if they show signs of wear.

6. You must fly the model only with the competent help of a
well-experienced R/C pilot, if you are not already an
experienced R/C pilot at this time.

4

Die Patterns

6

5

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality
kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability
of your finished model will depend on how you build it; therefore,
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your
completed model and no representations are expressed or implied
as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow the directions to
complete a well-built model which is straight and true.

EARLY IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE

Engine selection:

There are sever al engines that will work well in the Tower Trainer

40. The following engines will provide the best all-around flight
performance: O. S.®.40FX, Super Tigre®GS .40, Tower Hobbies
.40 or O. S. .52 Surpass (4-stroke). Your choice of a 2-stroke or
4-stroke engine will determine the location of the throttle servo
and pushrod exit.

Note: T he displacement in bold type is the most highly recommended.
However, all of these engines will fly the Tower T r ainer 40.

Selection of wheels

The standard recommended wheels are 2-1/2" for the main and
nose wheels. If you are flying off grass or an uneven surface, you
may wish to use larger wheels than those recommended. The
standard wheels have been tested on grass and work fine, but 3"
wheels would work even better.

“ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION”

❍ 4 Channel radio with 4 servos
❍ Engine: .40 - .46 2-stroke or .52 4-stroke
❍ Propeller (Top Flite®Power Point®)
❍ 10 oz. Fuel tank (Great Planes®#GPMQ4104)
❍ 12" Medium fuel tubing (Great Planes #GPMQ4131)
❍ (3) 2-1/2" Wheels (Great Planes #GPMQ4223)
❍ (6) 5/32" Wheel collars (Great Planes #GPMQ4306)
❍ 2-1/2" Spinner (Great Planes #GPMQ4520)
❍ (2) Rolls covering film (TowerKote™)
❍ 1/2" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (Hobbico®# HCAQ1050)
❍ #64 Rubber Bands (Tower Hobbies #TOWQ1220)
❍ Throttle Pushrod (Great Planes #GPMQ3716)
❍ Steering Pushrod (Great Planes #GPMQ3700)
❍ Connector for Throttle (Great Planes #GPMQ3840)
❍ Engine Mount (Great Planes #GPMG1061)
❍ Hardware for engine mount (Great Planes #GPMQ3509)
❍ Screw-Lock connectors (Great Planes #GPMQ3870)

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

We recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Tower Epoxy

❍ 2 oz. CA (Thin) (Great Planes #GPMR6003)
❍ 2 oz. CA+(Medium) (Great Planes #GPMR6009)
❍ 1 oz. CA- (Thick) (Great Planes #GPMR6014)
❍ CA Accelerator (Great Planes #GPMR6035)
❍ 6-Minute Epoxy (Tower Hobbies #TOWR3300)

Die Patterns

7

8

❍ 30-Minute Epoxy (Tower Hobbies #TOWR3350)
❍ ProWood glue (Great Planes #GPMR6160, optional)
❍ Hand or Electric Drill
❍ Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4"
❍ Sealing Iron (Top Flite #TOWR3250)
❍ Heat Gun (Top Flite #TOWR3200)
❍ Hobby Saw (X-acto®Razor Saw)
❍ Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
❍ Razor Plane (Master Airscrew)
❍ Pliers
❍ Screw Drivers (Phillips and Slot tip)
❍ Round file (or similar)
❍ T-Pins
❍ String
❍ Straightedge with scale
❍ Masking Tape (required for construction)
❍ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
❍ T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
❍ Wax paper or Plan Protector
❍ Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico HobbyLite

™

❍ Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
❍ Dremel Multi-Pro®or similar (optional)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders,
equipped with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper. This
setup is all that is required for almost any sanding task. Custom
sanding blocks can be made from balsa for sanding hard-to­reach spots. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper
handy for finish sanding before covering.

Common abbreviations used in this book and on the plan

Elev. = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage

LE = Leading Edge (Front of a wing)

Ply = Plywood

Stab = Stabilizer

TE = Trailing edge (Rear of Wing)

" = Inches

Types of wood

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

GET READY TO BUILD

• Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to make
them lie flat. If you have a small building space, you may fold
or cut the plans to fit onto your building surface.

• Remove all parts from the box. As y ou do, figure out the name
of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts list
included with this kit. Using a felt tip or ball point pen, lightly
write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion
later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on pages 4 and 5 to
identify the die-cut parts and mark them before removing
them from the sheet. Save all leftovers. If any of the die-cut
parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, cut
around the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the
die-cut parts, use your bar sander or sanding block to lightly
sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

• As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, Stab (Stabilizer),
and hardware.

NOTES ON USING GLUES

There are two types of glue recommended for building this

model, which are CA and Epoxy.
CA (cyanoacrylate) glue is used for general construction. It is

available in a v ariety of viscosities. We recommend you hav e the
following two types...

Thin CA: Has a viscosity similar to water and is used to glue
together parts fitting together very well and which do not require
repositioning after glue is applied. Thin CA is especially effective
for gluing balsa to balsa. It can be used to glue hardwoods such
as plywood, spruce or basswood, but it is usually necessary to
fillet the joint later with medium CA. Thin CA has the ability to
“wick” into joints. This means it will be drawn into very fine gaps
between parts. This characteristic makes thin CA very useful for
a lot of tasks, such as gluing seams already clamped together or
installing CA hinges. Thin CA usually sets very rapidly, so do not
expect to move parts at all after glue is applied. This rapid
reaction may also produce annoying fumes and heat. Always use
CA glues in a well-ventilated area.

Medium CA: Used in general construction for parts which have
gaps, require slight repositioning or involve hardwoods. Medium
CA can be used to make small fillets between parts in high stress
areas. Medium CA is a very good general purpose glue and many
people use it for the majority of their building. The Tower Trainer
40 uses Medium CA in many areas, so it is suggested that y ou ha ve
a 2 oz. bottle to make sure there is enough to complete the kit.

★★★★ Pro Tip: Zipper top food storage bags are handy to
store your parts as you sort, identify, and separate them into
sub-assemblies.

9

Some medium CA glues can be slow to set, especially w hen used to
fill gaps. A product known as C A Accelerator is available to speed
up the curing process. It is sprayed onto the joint after the glue is
applied and chemically reacts with the glue, causing it to set very
rapidly. There are a few precautions when using an accelerator...

Use it in a well-ventilated area. The rapid reaction can release
irritating fumes at a much higher rate than normal. Do not use
CA accelerators with thin CA!

Be careful when using the accelerator around plastics. Certain
accelerators will attack plastics and the vapors may fog clear
canopies. It is best to test the glue and accelerator on a leftover
piece of plastic if one is available.

Using too much accelerator may cause the CA glue to react very
rapidly and literally boil. This will result in a joint with a chalky
white color which is not nearly as strong as a normal joint.

Epoxy is used on high-stress joints requiring strength and vibration
resistance. Epoxy also works well in areas encountering fuel. The
slower cure time allows parts to be clamped, checked and
realigned if necessary before it cures. Epoxy is available in many
different formulas having different cure times. The single best type
of epoxy to have when building your Tower Trainer 40 is one
which sets up in 30 minutes, but you may also find 6-minute
epoxy handy to have around.

NOTES ON SANDING

Use a block or bar sander whenever possible. The flat block will
“ignore” glue and variations in wood hardness and give you a
true and even shape.

Always use fresh, sharp sandpaper. Sharp sandpaper will cut
through glue and hard materials easily, giving an even surface.
Older , dull sandpaper will require more pressure and may gouge
the surface. Now on to building your Tower Trainer 40!

“BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES”

Build the Stabilizer and Elevator

❍ 1. Cut the "Stabilizer/Elevator" section from the fuselage plan
sheet and tape it on your building board. Tape a piece of wax
paper or Plan Protector over the plan.

10

❍ 2. Place the 1/4" x 1" x 10" balsa stick over the portion of the
plan marked "Stab Forward Center," and line up the back edge of
the stick with the straight line. Draw two angled lines where you
will cut this stick. Remove the stick from the plan and cut the
stick along the lines using a hobby knife or razor saw. Straighten
and square the cut edges with a sanding block. Trim the ends
slightly to match the length shown on the plans.

❍ 3. Pin the Stab Forward Center into position on the plans. Test
fit the balsa 1/4" x 3" x 4" Stab Center into place. There should
be no gaps between the center and forward pieces. After fitting,
glue and pin the center to the forward using Medium CA.

❍ 4. Use two 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" balsa sticks to build the outside
framework of the Stabilizer. Start by placing the longest piece
first, working until you are placing the shortest (end) pieces. Glue
each piece together using Medium CA as you proceed.

❍ 5. Cut the corner gussets from the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa stick and
glue them into position.

★★★★ Pro Tip: If you are unfamiliar with "Built-up"
construction, we have found that the following method is
very easy and accurate.

A. Position an uncut stick directly over the plan and pin it

in place.

B. Mark each side of the stick where it ends or butts with

another part.

C. Remove the stick from the building surface and flip it over.

Draw a line between the marks you made previously using
a straight edge.

D. Using a razor sa w, cut as close to the line as possible. T hen,

with your sanding block, true-up the ends to the line. Flip
the part over and pin back in place over the plan.

❍ 6. Cut and install the Stab Bracing using 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa
sticks. Note: It is best to start with the straight pieces, then go to
the angled pieces. The alignment of each piece to the plan is not
critical, just as long as it is close and fits snugly into position.

❍ 7. Remove the Stabilizer from your building surface. Examine
and add thick CA glue to any open joints, then use your sanding
block with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand both sides of the
Stabilizer framework smooth.

❍ 8. Cut the Elevator from the 1/4" x 1-3/8" x 30" balsa stick. Save
the remaining section for making the Rudder.

❍ 9. Use your sanding block with medium (150-grit) sandpaper
to sand both sides of the Elevator smooth. Round the corners of
both pieces as shown on the plan.

BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER

❍ 1. Cut the "Fin/Rudder" section from the fuselage plan sheet
and tape it on your building board. Tape a piece of wax paper or
Plan Protector over the plan. Build the frame of the Fin using a
1/4" x 1/2" x 36" balsa stick.

❍ 2. Install the Inner Fr amework of the F in using 1/4" x 1/4" x 36"
balsa. Cut and install the corner gusset from the remaining
1/4" x 1/2" balsa.

❍ 3. Remove the Fin from your building surface. Examine and
add thick CA glue to an y open joints, then use your sanding bloc k
or bar sander with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand both
sides of the Fin smooth.

❍ 4. Build the Dorsal Fin from the remaining 1/4" x 1/2" and 1/4"
x 1/4" pieces. Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints,
then use your sanding block or bar sander with medium
(150-grit) sandpaper to sand both sides of the Dorsal Fin smooth.

11

❍ 5. Use the remaining section of 1/4" x 1-3/8" x 30" balsa to
make the Rudder.

❍ 6. Place the Fin, Dorsal F in and Rudder flat on your work surface
and sand them flat using a sanding block or bar sander and
120-grit sandpaper. Don’t forget to sand both sides smooth. Once
they are sanded, round the corners of the fin, dorsal fin and rudder
to match the plans.

Note: The Dorsal Fin will be glued in place after the Fin is
attached to the fuselage.

Bevel the Elevator and Rudder

❍ 1. Use a smooth ball point pen to draw a centerline along the
leading edge of the Elevator and Rudder.

❍ 2. Refering to the cross sections on the plan, carefully block
sand the elevator and rudder leading edges to a "V" shape. The
centerlines you drew earlier should remain for hinging later.

❍ 3. Using 180-grit sandpaper, round the leading edge and tips
of both the Fin and Stabilizer. Leave the trailing edges square.

INSTALLING THE HINGES

❍ 1. Use a smooth ball point pen to draw a centerline along the
trailing edge of the Stabilizer and Fin. Lay the Fin and Stabilizer on
the plan and mark the hinge locations. Place the Rudder against
the Fin TE and transfer the marks onto the Fin. Place the Elevator
against the Stabilizer and transfer the marks onto the Stabilizer.

❍ 2. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines which you
previously drew, using a hobby knife or a slotting fork and slotting
hook. (The recommended hinge slotting technique is listed belo w).

12

CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when cutting hinge
slots with a hobby knife, to avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa
part breaks while you are pushing on the knife, the blade could
go into your hand before you know it! A good precaution is to
wear leather gloves while performing the following steps and
always cut AWAY from yourself.

❍ 3. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the Rudder and
Elevator in place on the Fin and Stabilizer. Do not glue the
hinges until after you have covered the model.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Fuse Side Construction

❍ 1. Cut the "Fuselage side view" section from the fuselage plan
sheet and tape it on your building board. T ape a piece of Top Flite
Plan Protector or wax paper over the plan.

❍ 2. Glue the balsa die-cut 1/8" Upper Forward Fuse Sides to the
balsa die-cut 1/8" Lower Forward Fuse Sides using thin C A. Mark
the inside surface of the fuse sides with the letters 'R' and 'L' to

C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is difficult to

push in, re-insert the knife and move it back and forth in
the slot a few times to enlarge the slot.

★★★★ Pro T ip: Hinge slotting is a procedure that is required
for every model airplane. We have found that the technique
described below is accurate and fairly easy. Just work slowly
and carefully. Remember: Hobby knives are extremely sharp!

A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge

location. This first cut is to establish your cut in the right
place, so concentrate on staying on the centerline and

don't cut too deep!

B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line, going slightly

deeper each time. As you make these additional cuts, w ork

on going straight into the wood. Continue this process
while "wiggling" the knife handle back and forth until the
blade has reached the proper depth for the hinge.

13

designate the inside of the Right and Left fuselage sides. Be sure
to make a RIGHT and a LEFT fuselage side. Sand both sides of

the fuse sides using 150-grit sandpaper.

❍ 3. Locate the four die-cut 1/8" balsa Stabilizer Bases. Carefully
align and laminate two of the bases together using medium CA to
produce a 1/4" thick base. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining two bases. Sand the area shown in the photo using
120-grit sandpaper.

❍ 4. Use a straightedge to mark a line along the top of both fuse
sides, as there is a slight bump necessary for the die-cutting of the

part. Use a hobby knife and/or bar sander to remove the bump.
(This bump is also on the upper fuse doubler.)

❍ 5. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood Upper and Lower Fuse
Doublers. Make sure you are making both a Left and Right fuse

side. Test fit them onto the fuse sides as shown in the photo. Make
any necessary adjustment to allow the doublers to fit accurately
onto the fuse sides. Once all the fitting is done, glue them in
position using Thin CA. Make sure to make both a left and right
set. Sand the notches for the balsa fuse rails to provide a smooth
glue surface.

❍ 6. Place the Right Fuse Side onto the fuselage plan and pin it
in position. (The doubler should be facing away from the plan
sheet). Pin the Stabilizer Base into position on the plans.

❍ 7. Use two of the 1/4"x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks to make the upper
and lower Fuse Rails. Use medium CA to glue them into position.
Trim the excess extending past the Stabilizer Base.

14

❍ 8. Using a 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick, make the Center
Stringer. Use medium CA to glue it into position. Using leftovers

saved from the assembly of the Fin and Stab, cut the center
supports and glue them into position. Position the center supports
as accurately as possible, as the installation of the formers as well
as the top and bottom of the fuse depends on their locations.

❍ 9. Once the glue sets, remove the Fuselage Side from your
building surface. Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints,
then use your sanding block or bar sander with medium (150-grit)
sandpaper to sand both sides of the Fuselage Side smooth.

❍ 10. Place the Right Fuse Side underneath the wax paper. (The
side doesn’t have to align with the plans for this step.) The
doubler should be facing away from the wax paper or plan
protector . The remaining Fuse Side will be built directly on top of
our completed side to insure accuracy.

❍ 11. Place the Left Fuse Side directly on top of the Right Fuse
Side, carefully aligning them together. Use T-pins to lock the two
sides together. Repeat the procedure for the Stabilizer Base.

❍ 12. Make the Fuse Rails for the Left Fuse Side using the same
technique from the right side. The Left Fuse Side must match the
Right as closely as possible, or the fuselage will not be straight
when you are done. Once all the parts are cut and fit, use
Medium CA to glue them into position.

❍ 13. Once the glue sets, remove the Left Fuselage Side from the Right
Fuselage Side. Examine and add thick CA glue to an y open joints, then
use your sanding block or bar sander with medium (150-grit)
sandpaper to sand both sides of the Left Fuselage Side smooth.

❍ 14. Locate the three fuselage triplers and glue them in their proper
locations on the inside of the fuselage. Make sure the alignment of
the triplers doesn’t interfere with the notches for the formers.

15

❍ 15. Drill 1/4" holes as shown through the fuselage sides for the
wing dowels using the notches in the upper triplers for alignment.
Carefully sand the bottom edges of the fuselage sides flat to provide
a good surface to glue the bottom of the fuse into position.

Fuse Structure Assembly

❍ 1. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood F1A Former and the two
die-cut 1/8" plywood F1B Formers. Center the F1A Former on the
F1B Formers with the punch marks visible. The notches of all
formers will align when positioned correctly. Use the plans to
position the formers. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue them together.
Clamp or tape the firewall formers together until the glue sets. You
should have used enough epoxy so it will "ooze" out between the
formers. This excess epoxy can be cleaned up before it cures using
a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol.

Note: For the following steps, refer to the firewall cross section
drawing on the fuselage plans. At this point you must know which
engine and mount you will use. If you are using the recommended
engine and mount, the punch marks on F1A will be in the correct
locations. If you are using a different engine or mount requiring
different bolt locations, you will need to determine the locations

for your installation. To determine the center of the mount, draw
lines on the firewall as shown on the plan and in the previous
photo. Position your engine mount so it is centered on the lines.
Mark the locations for your mounting bolts. Locations for the nose
gear and throttle pushrods will be determined the same way for
any engine/mount combination.

❍ 2. If you are using the recommended mount, drill the four
punch marks in F1A with a 3/16" drill.

❍ 3. Gently tap four 6-32 blind nuts into the back (F1B) side of
the firewall. Carefully apply a small drop of Thin CA to the
perimeter of the flange on each 6-32 blind nut.

❍ 4. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F2 and drill 3/16"
holes at the punch marks. Use the Former F2 cross section on the
fuselage plan sheet to confirm these locations.

16

❍ 5. Test fit 1/8" plywood Former F2 in place on the Right Fuse
Side. Press it down into its slot and use a 90 degree triangle to
keep it perpendicular to the fuse side. Glue it in place with
Medium CA.

❍ 6. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F3 in place on the
Right Fuse Side. Press it down into its slot and use a 90 degree
triangle to keep it perpendicular to the fuse side. Glue it in place
with Medium CA.

❍ 7. Position the Left Fuselage Side onto the formers. Use
Medium CA and glue the fuse side to the formers.

❍ 8. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" plywood Landing Gear Plate (LGP).
Once satisfied with the fit, glue it with 6-minute epoxy.

❍ 9. Cut the remaining 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick into two 12"
pieces to be used as the Servo Rails. Position the Servo Rails so
they are flush with the aft edge of the main fuse side. They will
extend forward of Former F2 when installed. Wick Thin CA along
the edges of the rails and fuse sides to glue them in place.

17

❍ 10. Cut the "Fuselage Top V iew" section from the fuselage plan
sheet and tape it on your building board. Tape a piece of wax
paper or Plan Protector over the plan.

❍ 11. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood Forward Fuse Bottom.
Tape the Forward Fuse Bottom onto the fuselage. Set the fuselage
assembly upright (in its normal position) on the waxed paper.
With everything in its proper place, apply thin CA glue to all the
joints, around the formers and along the bottom. Keep checking
the parts fit and alignment as you glue. Wait a minute for the glue
to set, then apply thick CA to the joints to make sure a good bond
exists, especially in the joints that do not fit perfectly.

Note: The use of CA accelerator will be helpful when using thick
CA to fill any large gaps.

❍ 12. Locate the die-cut 1/8" balsa Aft Fuse Bottom and pin it
over the top view. Carefully align the fuselage sides and glue the
LGP to the front of the die-cut 1/8" balsa Fuse Bottom with
Medium CA. Use weights and/or pins to hold the fuse sides in
position. Place one die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F4 and one
die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F5 in their respective positions
against the Aft Fuse Bottom.

❍ 13. Pull the fuse sides against Former F5. The fuselage sides
should be centered on the bottom sheet. Press the Fuselage Sides
down tightly against the sheet and snug against the former. Press
Former F5 tightly against the Stabilizer Base. Use Medium CA to
glue the Fuse Sides to the Fuse Bottom and Former F5.

❍ 14. Pull the fuse sides against Former F4. The fuselage sides
should be centered on the bottom sheet. Press the Fuselage Sides
down tightly against the sheet and snug against the former. Press
Former F4 tightly against the Balsa Center Support. Use Medium
CA to glue the Fuse Sides to the Fuse Bottom and Former F4.

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