Tower Hobbies® guarantees this kit to be free
from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not
cover any component parts damaged by use or
modication. In no case shall Tower Hobbies’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Tower
Hobbies reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
WARR ANTY
without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the nal assembly or
material used for nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts
all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this
product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition
to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim, visit: towerhobbies/support
Hinge the Elevators and Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hook Up the Elevator and Rudder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Mount the Motor and ESC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Tower
Hobbies Sbach EP. While the Sbach is primarily an aerobatic,
3D-type of plane, its contemporary and sleek lines make
it appealing to all kinds of pilots, both intermediate and
advanced. The Sbach can serve all as its light wing-loading
and large control surfaces make it an aerobatic machine,
while its long moments and large ying surfaces make it a
smooth- ying, everyday sport model, too.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections, nd the
Sbach EP on the Tower Hobbies web site at www.towerhobbies.com. If there is new technical information or changes to this
model a “tech notice” box will appear on the page.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Radio/Servos
A minimum 4-channel radio with four mini servos and 4 –
5-channel receiver are required to y the Sbach:
* If setting the BEC voltage in the Castle Creations Edge Lite 75 ESC
higher than the factory default 5.0V, it is recommended to use a
separate BEC regulator such as the Castle Creations 10A BEC
regulator (CSEM0005) to power the radio system on-board the aircraft.
LiPo Battery Charger
To charge a 4S 3800 mAh LiPo at 1C, a charger capable of
about 65 Watts output power is required (4S x 4.2V/cell =
16.8V x 3.8A = 63 Watts). The Triton EQ2 (GPMM3156) is
more than enough charger with 100W output AC and 120W
output DC.
Adhesives, Hardware &
Other Accessories
Other than common hobby tools here is a list of the rest of
the items required:
A Robart
Super Stand
II (ROBP1402)
is also handy
for working
on your
Sbach.
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of
acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written
in the Kit Contents list. Visit: towerhobbies/support
A covering iron with a cover sock may be required for
tightening and re bonding covering to the model that may
have loosened between the time the plane was manufactured
and the time the model was removed from the box. The 21st
Century iron is preferred because of its long cord, contoured
shoe and precisely adjustable temperature range:
❍ Coverite 21
st
Century Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❍ Coverite 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)
KIT CONTENTS
1. Cowl
2. Fuselage
3. Left Wing Half
4. Right Wing Half
5. Horizontal Stabilizer
6. Rudder
7. Wheel Pants
8. Main Wheels
9. Tailwheel Assembly
10. Wing Joiner
11. Pushrods
12. Main Landing Gear
13. Spinner
14. Nylon Par ts
15. Har dwa re
16. Elevator Joiner &
Rudder Torque Rod
17. Hardware
10
11
1
5
2
3
4
8
7
6
12
17
16
9
13
14
15
3
CANOPY REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
PREPARATION
Between the time the covering was applied to your model
and the time it arrives in your hands it is normal for the
covering to loosen and wrinkle – especially if it has been a
long time and/or the air is dry at your location (causing the
structure to contract and the covering to loosen). But this is
easy to x using the proper tools and techniques.
The best way to renew the covering job is with a covering
iron with a protective cover sock not only to tighten the
covering, but also to thoroughly bond the covering to the
wood underneath. The preferred tool is a 21st Century cover
iron with a cover sock set to about 300°F [150°C]. This
translates to about 280°F [140°C] measured on the surface
of the cover sock.
Begin with the wings. You may also do the fuselage and tail
surfaces now, or wait until they are needed for assembly later.
The canopy hatch is held in place with tabs in the back and
springs over dowels in the front. To remove the canopy, push
forward to disengage the tabs, then lift the rear up and pull
the canopy back and out to disengage the dowels. (If you feel
too much pressure is required to push the canopy forward,
the tabs could be shortened slightly to shorten the “throw”
that the canopy has to be pushed.)
1. Over unsupported covering, glide the iron across, but
❏
where the lm is over structure apply pressure to bond the
covering down. Adjust the heat setting as necessary so the
covering tightens, shrinks and bonds to the wood, but not
so hot as to cause seams to pull apart.
2. Where possible, support the structure underneath with
❏
your free hand to prevent the sheeting from bending inward.
4
3. OPTIONAL: When you get to the ailerons, elevators
2
1
3
4
S3171SV
2
3
S3171SV
#49 [.073"]
Drill
5/8" [16 mm]
90°
❏
and rudder, puncture three or four pinholes through the
covering on the bottom of those surfaces between each
of the braces or “ribs.” This will allow heated, expanding
air to escape so the covering will tighten. These pinholes
may appear obtrusive at rst, but when the covering is
heated the pinholes virtually disappear. Heat the side of the
covering without the pinholes rst.
6. NOTE: The procedure for preparing the holes in
❏
wood for all wood screws is as follows:
A. Drill the hole with the drill speci ed in the step.
B. Install, then remove the screw to form “threads” in
the hole.
C. Add a drop or two of thin CA to harden the hole.
D. Allow the CA to harden, then install the screw(s)
with the hardware that is being mounted/installed/
attached (servos, control horns, etc.).
ASSEMBLE THE WING
Hook up the Ailerons
4. Stack a few paper towels on top of each other and cut
❏
them into small squares. These small paper towel squares
come in handy for dabbing up excess CA or wiping up
epoxy when dampened with denatured alcohol.
5. NOTE: All machine-thread screws that thread into
❏
metal (hex nuts, blind nuts, wheel collars, etc.) should
be lightly wetted with threadlocker.
Refer to this image while hooking up the aileron.
1.
Connect the aileron servo to your radio so you can power
❏
the servo. Position the servo arm so it will be perpendicular
5
to the servo, then cut off the unused arms. Drill out the holes
Horn all the way to
leading edge of aileron.
90° Pushrod Connector
1/16"
[1.6mm]
in the arm with a #49 (.073") drill.
5. Test- t, but do not glue the berglass wing tabs into
❏
the ends of the wings.
2. Hook up the aileron with the hardware shown; note
❏
that the aileron horn is mounted all the way to the forward
edge of the aileron. Using care not to drill through the top
of the aileron, drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the servo and
horn mounting screws. Don’t forget to temporarily remove
the screws and harden the holes with thin CA. Connect
the pushrod to a hole about 5/8" [16mm] out on the servo
arm and the middle hole in the aileron horn. This geometry
should provide the correct 3D throw with the transmitter
servo end points dialed to about 110%.
3. Prepare the other wing with the aileron servo the
same way.
4. Use 6 or 30-minute epoxy to glue the nylon alignment
❏
pins into both wings with approximately 1/4" [6 mm]
protruding from the wing.
6. Fit the wings to the fuselage with the wing tube. Make
❏
sure the tabs insert into the fuselage and the holes in the
tabs align with the holes in the brackets for the tab screws
in the fuselage. Make any adjustments necessary.
7. Remove the wings and tabs. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue
the tabs into the ends of the wing and wipe away excess
6
epoxy. Before the epoxy hardens, reinstall the wings back
onto the fuselage and position the tabs so the slotted holes
will be centered over the holes in the brackets. Momentarily
remove the wings to be sure there is no excess epoxy
around the tabs that would inadvertently stick the wing to
the fuselage. Reinstall the wings and immediately proceed
to the next step.
2. Test- t the elevators to the stabilizer with the hinges
❏
and the joiner wire—you may insert T-pins through the
middle of any hinges that don’t remain centered.
8. Before the epoxy has hardened, fasten the tabs
❏
with an M3 x 10 SHCS (socket-head cap screw) and M3
lock washers and at washers. Push the wings snugly to
the fuselage and allow the epoxy to fully harden before
removing the wings.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
Installl the Horizontal Stabilizer
1. If you haven’t yet done so, tighten the covering over
❏
the fuselage and the tail surfaces. Be certain to seal the
bottom fuselage covering to the front of the former so the
covering cannot pull away.
3. View the elevators from whatever perspective
❏
necessary to see that they are aligned with each other. If
necessary, remove the joiner and lightly “tweak” with pliers
to align the elevators.
7
4. Temporarily mount the elevator servo, then remove
❏
it (it’s easier to drill the holes for the elevator servo now,
before the stab has been glued in).
5. Mount the wings to the fuselage. Slide the horizontal
❏
stabilizer into position. View the model from the rear to see
if the stab is parallel with the wing.
7. Now that the stab is level with the wing, center the
❏
stab laterally by using a ruler to equalize the distance from
both ends of the stab to the fuselage.
8. Once centered, stick T-pins into the trailing edge of
❏
the stab on both sides of the fuselage to lock the trailing
edge into place.
6. If necessary, remove the stab and carefully sand the
❏
stab saddle where necessary to align the stab with the wing.
9. Tie a loop around one end of an approximately 48"
❏
[1200mm] non-elastic line. Fold a piece of masking tape
over the other end of the line. Mark a line on the tape.
8
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