Tower
Hobbies®
guarantees
this kit to be
free from defects
in both material and
workmanship at the
WARRANTY
date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover any
component parts damaged by
use or modification. In no case
shall Tower Hobbies’ liability exceed
the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Tower Hobbies reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the final
assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the
use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in
new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at
the address below:
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information
as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description
Congratulations on your purchase of the Tower Hobbies Razor
3D ARF! The Razor is a great fl ying model that is an ideal
sport plane for the casual fl ier or a capable 3D performer. Both
glow and electric provisions are provided with the kit. Radio
equipment and battery packs are easily accessible beneath the
canopy hatch that can be removed quickly without tools.
AMA
W e urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics)
and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model
aviation and membership is required to fl y at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefi ts, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not
limited to fl ying at contests or on the club fi eld. It even applies
to fl ying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to
comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of
the manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over 2,500
AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at
the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT: Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid fl y-
ing near full-scale aircraft and avoid fl ying near or over groups
of people.
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS.....FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Razor 3D ARF should not be considered a toy, but rather
a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a
full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the
Razor, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly
cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unfl yable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rst-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel
tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
––
Page 3
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every fl ight
to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other
connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of
wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance
of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your fi rst fl ights.
If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has
information about clubs in your area whose membership
includes experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress fl ying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this
kit are made of fi berglass, the fi bers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part to
remove fi berglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your
eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber
gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fi berglass parts.
Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after working
with fi berglass parts.
W e, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality ,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
REMEMBER: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the Razor 3D ARF
that may require planning or decision making before starting to
build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
––––––––
RADIO EQUIPMENT
The Razor 3D ARF requires a minimum 4-channel radio system
with four 44 oz.-in. [3.2 kg-cm] minimum standard servos. If
you are installing a glow engine, an additional standard servo
is required for the throttle. For maximum performance, we
recommend installing Tower Hobbies TS-160 digital servos
for the control surfaces.
In addition, two 12" [305mm] servo extensions are required
for the aileron servos and two 24" [610mm] servo extensions
are required for the elevator and rudder servos. If you are
using a radio system that does not support mixing functions, a
Y-harness will also be required to connect the aileron servos to
the receiver.
A char ge jack receptacle is optional, but is useful for recharging
and checking the voltage of the receiver pack without removing
the canopy hatch. Recommended part numbers for the radio
components are provided below:
■ Tower Hobbies TS-53 Standard Servo U (TOWM4525)
■ Tower Hobbies TS-160 Std Digital HT HS 2BB MG
Servo U (TOWM4612)
■ Hobbico
(HCAM2100)
■ Futaba® Dual Servo Extension 6" J (FUTM4130)
■ Hobbico Servo Extension 24" Futaba J (HCAM2200)
■ Ernst Charge Receptacle Futaba J FM (ERNM3001)
The recommended receiver pack is:
■ Hobbico HydriMax™ 4-Cell 4.8V 2000mAh NiMH Flat
AA Rx U (HCAM6321)
®
Extension 12" [152mm] Futaba® J
POWER SYSTEM RECOMMENDATIONS
The recommended engine/motor size for the Razor 3D ARF
is a .46-.55 cu in [7.5-9cc] two-stroke engine, .70-.81 cu in
[11.5-13.5cc] four-stroke engine, or a RimFire .55 (42-60-480)
brushless outrunner motor. Recommended engine and motor
order numbers are provided below:
■ O.S.® 55AX ABL w/Muffl er (OSMG0556)
■ O.S. 81FS-a (OSMG0981)
■ Great Planes® RimFire™ .55 (42-60-480) Out-Runner
Brushless (GPMG4715)
■ Great Planes Brushless Motor Mount Medium Motors
(GPMG1255)
If using the recommended brushless motor, a 60A brushless
ESC is required:
■ Great Planes Silver Series 60A Brushless ESC High Volt
(GPMM1850)
PROPELLER
If you are installing a glow engine, choose a prop based on the
engine manufacturer’s recommendation. If you are installing
the recommended RimFire brushless motor, we suggest a
14×7E APC propeller.
■ APC 14×7 Electric Propeller (APCQ4145)
BATTERIES AND CHARGER
For a brushless motor installation, two 3200mAh 11.1V Lithium
Polymer battery packs connected in series are recommended.
Order numbers for the battery packs and series connector are
provided below:
■ Great Planes Series Deans® U 2 to 1 Adapter
(GPMM3143)
■ 220 grit sandpaper
■ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
A cell balancer is required for the LiPo battery pack
listed above:
®
■ Great Planes ElectriFly
1-5 (GPMM3160)
A suitable charger is also required. The Great Planes
PolyCharge4™ is designed for LiPo packs only, but is able
to charge four LiPo packs simultaneously. The Great Planes
Triton2™ charger will only charge one pack at a time, but is
capable of charging NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, and Pb acid batteries.
Order numbers for both are provided below:
■ Great Planes PolyCharge4 DC Only 4 Output LiPo
Charger (GPMM3015)
OR
■ Great Planes ElectriFly Triton2 DC Comp Peak Charger
(GPMM3153)
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Equinox™ LiPo Cell Balancer
–––––––
REQUIRED HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to fi nish the
Razor 3D ARF. Order numbers are provided in parentheses:
■ Great Planes Tap & Drill Set 6-32 (GPMR8102) (Glow
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
4
engine installation only)
■ Tap handle (GPMR8120) (Glow engine installation only)
■ Small metal fi le
■ #1 Blade Handle w/#11 Blade & Cap (TOWR1010)
■ #11 Blades (5) (TOWR1015)
■ Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)
■ Tower Hobbies Custom Sealing Iron (TOWR3250)
■ Top Flite Hot Sock™ iron cover (TOPR2175)
BUILDING STAND
A building stand or cradle comes in handy during the build. We
use the Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) for all our projects
in R&D, and it can be seen in pictures throughout this manual.
Page 5
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
–––––––
■ When you see the term test fi t in the instructions, it means
that you should fi rst position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fi t
the part as necessary for the best fi t.
■ Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specifi c type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
■ Whenever just epoxy is specifi ed you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specifi ed it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
■Photos and sketches are placed before the step they refer
to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get
another view of the same parts.
■ The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust angles
have been factory-built into this model. However, some
technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fl y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
KIT INSPECTION
–––––––––––––––––––––––
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not
of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing
parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit
Contents list.
Tower Hobbies Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: productsupport@towerhobbies.com
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
2
4
3
5
7
KIT CONTENTS
1
6
9
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
12
10
15
14
8
1. Fuselage
2. Canopy Hatch
3. Belly Pan
4. Cowl
5. Wing
6. Ailerons
7. Horizontal Stabilizer
8. Elevator Halves
9. Main Landing Gear
10. Wheel Pants
13
11
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
11. Wheels
12. Spinner
13. Fuel Tank
14. Vertical Fin
15. Rudder
5
Page 6
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Razor 3D ARF are available from
Tower Hobbies or Hobby Services using the order numbers
in the Replacement Parts List that follows. Contact Tower
at www.towerhobbies.com, or call toll free (800) 637-6050.
Contact Hobby Services by calling (217) 398-0007, or via
facsimile at (217) 398-7721. If ordering via fax, include a V isa
or MasterCard® number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
®
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the
Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal
check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact
Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@towerhobbies.
com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
Fuse Set Tower Razor 3D ARF
Wing Tower Razor 3D ARF
Tail Set Tower Razor 3D ARF
Canopy Tower Razor 3D ARF
Landing Gear Tower Razor 3D ARF
Wheel Pants Tower Razor 3D ARF
Cowl Tower Razor 3D ARF
Decal Set Tower Razor 3D ARF
2. Carefully remove the tape and separate all the control
❏
surfaces. Use a covering iron with a covering sock on high heat
to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure over sheeted
areas to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.
BUILD THE WING
––––––––––––––––––––––
INSTALL THE AILERONS
Drill a 3/32" [2.4 mm] hole
1/2" [13mm] deep, in the center
of the hinge slot.
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
PREPARATIONS
1. If you have not done so already, remove the major parts of the
❏
kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts are damaged
or missing, contact Product Support at the address or telephone
number listed in the “Kit Inspection” section on page 5.
6
––––––––––––
Cut the covering
away from the slot.
1. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole 1/2" [13mm] deep into the
❏
center of each hinge slot in the ailerons and wing. Trim the
covering away from each hinge slot to ensure that the hinges
will be properly glued in place.
Page 7
2. Test fi t a CA hinge into each of the hinge slots in the wing
❏
and ailerons. If necessary, enlarge the slots with a hobby knife.
When satisfi ed with the fi t, insert a CA hinge halfway into each
hinge slot in the wing panel. Push a pin through the middle of
each hinge to keep them centered.
INSTALL THE AILERON SERVOS
AND PUSHRODS
1. Attach a 12" [305mm] servo extension to each aileron
❏
servo. Secure the connections using tape, heat shrink tubing
(not included) or special clips designed for that purpose.
3. Join the ailerons to the wing and remove the pins from
❏
the hinges. Align the tips of the ailerons with the wing tips.
Adjust the ailerons so there is a small gap between the LE of the
ailerons and the wing. The gap should be small, just enough to
see light through the gap or to slip a piece of paper through.
4. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of
❏
each hinge without using accelerator. After the CA glue has
hardened, confi rm that the ailerons are secure by pulling on
them and defl ecting them up and down.
2. Locate the strings taped inside the aileron servo bays and
❏
tie the ends of the strings to the servo extensions. With the string
ends securely tied to the extensions, use needle nose pliers to
retrieve the center of the string from the servo lead exit hole in
the center of the top of the wing. Use the string to pull the servo
leads through the wing ribs and out the servo lead exit hole.
BUILD THE WING
7
Page 8
3. Position the servos in the aileron servo bays in the
❏
orientation shown. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo
mounting tabs. Thread a servo mounting screw (included with
the servos) into each hole and back it out. Apply a drop of thin
CA to each hole to harden the wood. When the glue has cured,
install the servos using the hardware included in the servo
hardware bags.
CORRECTINCORRECT
Hinge LineHinge Line
4. Thread a nylon clevis 20 complete turns onto each 6"
❏
[152mm] pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis retainer onto each
clevis and connect the clevises to the outer holes of two
control horns.
Cut off unused arms
BUILD THE WING
6. Position the control horns over the hardwood blocks
❏
embedded in the ailerons (if you cannot see them, hold the
aileron at a shallow angle in good lighting or use a small pin
to puncture the covering). Use the position of the servo arms
as a guide. Align the holes in the control horns directly over
the aileron hinge line and mark the location of the control horn
mounting holes.
5. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm for the
❏
aileron servo. Enlarge the outer hole of the remaining arm
with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Center the servo with your radio
system and install the servo arm to the servo perpendicular
to the servo case as shown. Be sure to reinstall the servo arm
8
screw into the servo.
7. Drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks you made through
❏
the hardwood blocks. Apply a couple drops of thin CA glue
Page 9
to each hole to harden the wood surrounding the holes. When
the glue has cured, install the control horns onto the ailerons
using four 2-56 x 1/2" [13mm] machine screws and control
horn backplates.
90 degree
Pushrod
Connector
FINISH THE WING
1. Use epoxy to glue the nylon wing dowels into the center
❏
LE of the wing. The smooth ends of the dowels should protrude
from the root ribs approximately 1/2" [13mm]. Use a paper
towel dampened with denatured alcohol to wipe away any
excess epoxy.
Servo HornPushrod Wire
8. Use tape or a small clamp to hold the ailerons in the
❏
neutral position. Make a mark on the pushrods where they cross
the outer holes in the servo arms. Make a 90 degree bend at the
mark on the pushrod and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm]
beyond the bend. Attach the pushrods to the servo arms using
90 degree pushrod connectors. Thread the clevises up or down
on the pushrods as necessary to center the ailerons with the
servo arms centered. When satisfi ed, slide the silicone clevis
retainers to the ends of the clevises to secure them.
2. Temporarily mount the wing onto the fuselage using the
❏
1/4-20 x 1-1/4" [32mm] nylon wing bolt.
3. Put the belly pan in place onto the underside of the wing
❏
and align it with the fuselage. When satisfi ed with its position,
tape it in place to the fuse. Use a felt-tip pen to trace along the
sides of the belly pan onto the wing.
BUILD THE WING
9
Page 10
5. Trim the covering away from the gluing edges of the
❏
belly pan.
4. Remove the belly pan from the wing and the wing from
❏
the fuse. Cut away the covering 1/16" [1.6mm] inside the lines
you drew, being careful to cut only the covering itself, not into
the wood sheeting beneath. You can also remove the covering
using the following tip.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the area beneath
the belly pan. The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be
sharp, but a fi ne tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat
fully.
6. Reinstall the wing onto the fuse (we recommend lining the
❏
LE and TE of the wing between it and the fuse with wax paper
to avoid accidentally gluing the wing to the fuse when gluing
the belly pan in place.) Mix up approximately 1/4 oz [7.5 ml] of
epoxy and glue the belly pan in place. Tape it or put a weight on
it to prevent it from moving while the epoxy cures. A paper towel
dampened with denatured alcohol can be used to wipe away any
excess epoxy. Do not glue the belly pan to the fuselage!
7. Trim the covering from the wing bolt hole in the
❏
belly pan.
BUILD THE WING
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will
just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The hotter
the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fi ne cut.
Peel off the covering.
10
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
INSTALL THE TAIL SECTION
–––––––––––––––––
Page 11
1. Temporarily install the horizontal stabilizer into the
❏
horizontal stabilizer slot. Stand back 5-6 ft [1.5 - 1.8m] and
view the model from behind. Confi rm that the stab and wing are
parallel. If not, sand the slot as necessary until they are parallel.
Before beginning step 2, have some paper towels, denatured
alcohol, and a tape measure or length of string with some
masking tape on hand and ready to use. When gluing the stab
into the slot, it is recommended to coat both the stab itself and
the slot with epoxy. Doing so will r equire additional cleaning of
excess epoxy from one side of the stab. However, a better glue
joint is achieved when both mating sides have epoxy applied
to them. We also suggest dry fi tting the stab with the elevator
joiner in place to confi rm that the joiner wire rotates smoothly.
Measure from the wing tips to the stab tips and make those
distances equal. Wipe away excess epoxy with paper towels
dampened with denatured alcohol. Confi rm that the stab and
wing are still parallel. A weight can be added to one side of the
stab to make any small corrections. Allow the epoxy to cure
undisturbed. The wing can now be removed from the fuselage
and set aside.
3. Test fi t the elevator halves onto the stab with CA hinges.
❏
The elevator joiner wire ends fi t into the pre-drilled holes and
slots at the LE of the elevators. Make any adjustments to the
slots as necessary for a good fi t. When satisfi ed, roughen the
ends of the elevator joiner wire with sandpaper and clean them
with denatured alcohol. Mix up a small amount of epoxy and
coat the ends of the joiner wire. Install the elevator halves onto
the stab with CA hinges as you did the ailerons, being sure that
there are even gaps between the stab tips and elevators on each
side. Wipe away any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol. The
CA hinges will hold the elevators in place while the epoxy on
the joiner wire cures.
2. Insert the elevator joiner wire into the aft end of the
❏
stab slot. Coat the exposed wood on the top and bottom of the
stab with 30-minute epoxy as well as the mating edges of the
stab slot. Insert the stab into the slot and center it left and right.
4. The balsa supporting block at the aft end of the vertical
❏
fi n slot must be cut away. A razor saw works well for this, but a
hobby knife will also suffi ce.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
11
Page 12
ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR
5. Glue the vertical fi n into the slot using thin CA.
❏
1. Secure the axles to the landing gear legs using the 5/16"-
❏
24 nylon lock nuts.
6. Test fi t the tail wheel assembly into the slot at the LE of
❏
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
the rudder. Confi rm that the wire fully seats into the pre-drilled
hole in the rudder. Test fi t the rudder onto the fuselage. When
satisfi ed with the fi t, remove the tail wheel assembly and roughen
the end that fi ts into the rudder with sandpaper and clean it with
alcohol. Coat that part of the wire as well as the nylon tab with
epoxy and attach the rudder with CA hinges. Take care not to
epoxy the nylon tab to the tail wheel wire, preventing it from
12
rotating. Some oil or petroleum jelly will help prevent this.
2. Slide a 5/32" [4mm] wheel collar onto each axle followed
❏
by a 2-1/2" [64mm] wheel and then another 5/32" [4mm] wheel
collar. Mark the location of the threaded holes in the wheel
collars onto the axles. Use a fi le or rotary tool such as a Dremel
to grind fl at spots at the marks on the axles.
3. Reinstall the wheel collars and wheels onto the axles.
❏
Thread a 6-32 set screw into each wheel collar and tighten the
screws against the fl at spots on the axles with thread locking
compound. Be sure that the wheel rotates freely on the axle. Oil
the axles if necessary.
Page 13
4. Attach the wheel pants to the landing gear legs using four
❏
2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] machine screws, four #2 fl at washers, four
#2 lock washers, and thread locking compound.
INSTALL THE TAIL SERVOS AND PUSHRODS
1. Attach a 24" [610mm] servo extension to the rudder and
❏
elevator servos.
2. The installation of the elevator servo and pushrod is the
❏
same as it was for the ailerons. Make the elevator pushrod
from a 12" [305mm] pushrod wire. Be sure to harden the servo
mounting screw holes with thin CA.
5. Attach the landing gear legs to the fuselage using six 4-40
❏
x 1/2" [13mm] socket head cap screws, six #4 fl at washers, six
#4 lock washers, and thread locking compound.
6. Secure the tail wheel to the tail wheel assembly with a
❏
3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collar, 4-40 set screw and thread locking
compound. Be sure that the tail wheel rotates freely on the axle.
Oil the axle if necessary.
3. Trim the rudder control horn as shown before installing
❏
it onto the rudder.
4. Before making the 90 degree bend in the rudder pushrod,
❏
epoxy the included 4" [102mm] carbon tube onto the
pushrod as shown. Be sure to leave enough room for the
90 degree pushrod connector to connect to the pushrod
wire. The carbon tube will prevent the pushrod from
flexing during flight.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
13
Page 14
GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION
The Razor 3D ARF is designed to be fl own with a .46-.55
two-stroke glow engine, .70-.81 four-stroke glow engine, or a
brushless out-runner motor. If you plan to install a brushless
motor, skip this section as it only contains information relevant
to installing a glow engine.
A 2-stroke engine is shown in this section. The installation
of a 4-stroke engine will require a similar procedure.
Filling and emptying of the tank would need to be done through
the carb line, or an optional fuel fi ll valve (not included). The
tank can also be assembled as a three line system (additional fuel
clunk not included) having a vent line, carb line, and fi ll line.
If installing a fi ll line, puncture the top of the stopper above the
sealed off fuel tube hole (the photos show the installation of a
fi ll line). The fi ll and carb lines should extend out 1/2" [13mm]
beyond the stopper and the vent line should be bent upwards
and left uncut. With the tubes installed in the stopper, fi t the
stopper plates loosely in place with the 3 x 25mm phillips screw
to hold the assembly together.
1. Seal up the electric cooling hole cutout with thick CA
❏
or epoxy.
Top of tank
Fill and carb lines
(additional fuel clunk not included)
Vent
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
2. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line system
❏
consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the muffl er and a carb line.
14
3. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the vent line
❏
pointing toward the top of the tank, but not touching. The fuel
tubing and clunk (fuel pickup) on the carb line should almost
reach the back of the tank but not touch. The clunk(s) must be
able to move freely inside the tank when assembled. Adjust the
length of the fuel tubing accordingly. When satisfi ed, tighten
the 3x25mm screw in the stopper to secure it in place (do not
over-tighten). Mark the side of the tank that must face up when
installed in the plane, and we also suggest marking the tubes in
the stopper.
Page 15
4. Make a 10" [254mm] long strap from the included
❏
hook and loop material by overlapping the mating ends by
approximately 1" [25mm]. Insert the strap through the slots in
the fuel tank tray. Cut a piece of 1/4" [6mm] foam rubber (not
included) to line the fuel tank tray. Fit the neck of the fuel tank
through the hole in the fi rewall and tightly secure the tank in
place with the strap.
6. If you are installing the O.S. FS81-a engine, you will need
❏
to trim away the nose gear bearing on the top side of the engine
mount as shown. A rotary tool works well for this.
5. Attach a 6"-7" [152mm-178mm] piece of fuel tubing onto
❏
each line coming from the tank.
7. Using four 6-32 x 1" [25mm] machine screws, four #6 fl at
❏
washers, four #6 lock washers, and thread locking compound,
attach the engine mount inverted to the fi rewall. Leave the
screws slightly loose. Test fi t your engine between the mount
halves. Slide the mount halves against the sides of the engine
and fi nish tightening the mount screws. Position the front of the
engine drive washer 4-7/8" [124mm] from the fi rewall.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
15
Page 16
8. Mark the location of the engine mount holes onto the
❏
mount rails using a Dead Center Hole Locator. Remove the
engine from the mount and use a 6-32 tap and drill set to create
threads in the four mounting holes. Attach the engine to the
mount using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] machine screws, four #6
fl at washers, and four #6 lock washers.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
10. Loosely thread a 4-40 set screw into the brass screw-
❏
lock pushrod connector. Install the screw-lock connector on the
underside of the outer hole in the throttle servo arm using a
nylon retainer. Install the servo arm onto the servo, being sure
to replace the servo arm screw.
9. Install the throttle servo onto the throttle servo tray using
❏
the hardware supplied with the servo.
16
Page 17
11. Insert the outer pushrod tube through the holes in the
❏
fi rewall and formers. Mark and cut the tube to length so the
aft end is 2" [51mm] in front of the throttle servo arm and the
forward end protrudes beyond the front of the fi rewall 1/4"
[6mm]. Roughen the outside of the pushrod tube using 220grit sandpaper. Glue the outer pushrod tube to the holes in the
fi rewall and formers.
13. Insert the pushrod through the outer pushrod tube and
❏
through the screw-lock pushrod connector on the throttle servo
arm. Connect the clevis to the throttle arm on the carburetor.
Make any necessary bends in the pushrod so the pushrod can
actuate the throttle without binding. When satisfi ed, adjust the
pushrod position in the screw-lock pushrod connector so that
the throttle servo properly opens and closes the carburetor. Use
the radio system to test the operation of the throttle. Tighten the
set screw in the screw-lock pushrod connector and cut off the
excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] behind it.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
12. (If you are installing an engine with a rear mounted carb,
❏
cut off a portion of the threaded end from the 20" [508mm] long
pushrod leaving 1/2" [13mm].) Thread a nylon clevis onto the
pushrod 20 complete turns and install a silicone clevis retainer
onto the clevis.
14. Cut the carb line to length and connect it the fuel inlet.
❏
If you put a fi ll line in the tank, you will need a fuel line plug
(not included). The line can hang free from the bottom of the
plane or can be secured in which ever way you see fi t. Attach
the muffl er and connect the pressure line to it (the muffl er may
need to be removed when fi tting the cowl depending on how
you choose to make the muffl er cutout).
17
Page 18
BRUSHLESS MOTOR INSTALLATION
The Razor 3D ARF is designed to be fl own with a .46-.55
two-stroke glow engine, .52-.81 four-stroke glow engine, or a
brushless out-runner motor . If you have installed a glow engine,
skip this section as it only contains information relevant to
installing a brushless motor.
Be sure to read and understand the instructions that come with
the ESC and motor before attempting to operate the system.
Also read the lithium battery handling and usage warning on
page 28 of this manual.
3. Attach the motor mount to the fi rewall using four 6-32 x
❏
3/4" [19mm] machine screws, four #6 fl at washers, four #6 lock
washers, and thread locking compound.
1. Cut the perforations on the cooling hole cutout in the
❏
fi rewall and remove the piece.
2. Attach the out-runner motor to the brushless motor mount
❏
using the included 3 x 8mm machine screws and thread locking
compound. If you haven’t done so yet, install the prop adapter
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
to the motor case with the hardware included with the motor
and thread locking compound.
4. Loosen the screws that join the aluminum motor mount
❏
halves and slide them together so that the front of the prop
adapter is 4-7/8" [124mm] from the fi rewall. When adjusting
the aluminum motor mount, take care not to inadvertently
increase or decrease the amount of down thrust from what is
already built into the motor mounting box.
18
5. Locate the plywood ESC tray parts. Glue the three disks
❏
over the ESC mounting holes on the tray as shown.
Page 19
6. Glue the ESC tray side pieces to the tray in the orientation
❏
shown. Be sure the side pieces are thoroughly glued.
7. Thread a #4 x 1/2" [13mm] self-tapping screw into each
❏
tray hole and back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole
to harden the wood. When the CA has dried, mount the ESC
onto the underside of the tray using three #4 x 1/2" [13mm]
self-tapping screws. If you are using a different brand ESC, you
may need to modify the tray to fi t the ESC.
9. Connect the motor lead wires to the ESC. Wrapping the
❏
wires behind the ESC tray below the mount will keep the excess
length neatly out of the way.
8. Mount the ESC tray to the brushless motor mount as
❏
shown. Put a #4 fl at washer onto each of the four 4-40 x 5/8"
[16mm] machine screws and insert the screws through the
holes in the tray side pieces and through the center slots in
the brushless motor mount. Tighten a 4-40 locknut and #4 fl at
washer onto each screw to secure the tray to the mount.
10. Make two straps from the included hook and loop
❏
material by overlapping the mating ends by approximately
1" [25mm]. The straps should be long enough to wrap around
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
19
Page 20
your battery packs. Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the battery
tray and let it cure undisturbed. The epoxy will improve the
adhesion of the self-adhesive hook and loop material. Cut a
piece of the hook side from a package of self-adhesive hook
and loop material (not included) and apply it to the center of
the battery tray. The loop side should be applied to the bottom
of the battery pack. Additional pieces can also be used to hold
multiple packs together. Insert the straps you made through the
slots in the tray as shown. Test fi t the pack onto the tray. Now
would also be a good time to confi rm that the motor will rotate
the correct direction by temporarily powering up the motor
using the ESC and your radio system (do not install a propeller
yet!). If the motor rotates the wrong direction (it should rotate
counter-clockwise when viewing it from the front), disconnect
any two of the three motor leads and swap their position.
INSTALL THE RECEIVER, BATTERY PACK
AND SWITCH HARNESS
11. Cut the covering from the cool air exit on the underside
❏
of the fuselage in the location shown.
This model belongs to:
Name
Address
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
City, State, Zip
Phone Number
1. Make a strap from the included hook and loop material to
❏
fi t your receiver. Connect the servos to the receiver. Cut a piece
of foam rubber (not included) to fi t your receiver and strap the
receiver in the location shown that matches your power system.
A receiver antenna tube is provided for FM and PCM receivers.
Be sure the antenna will not interfere with the tail servos.
Instructions for this
tag are on page 25.
AMA Number
20
Page 21
FINISH THE MODEL
1. Before fi tting the cowl, make any cutouts necessary for
❏
your power system. If you have installed a glow engine, a
cutout must be made for the exhaust, needle valve access, glow
plug access, and cool air exit. A rotary tool such as a Dremel
works very well for cutting holes in fi berglass. We also suggest
enlarging the air inlet with a glow engine installed to improve
air fl ow across the engine head.
2. Install your receiver battery in front of the receiver in the
❏
same manner.
3. Two pre-cut switch locations are provided on the
❏
fuselage side. Choose the one that best matches your power
system choice. An external mounted charge jack could be
mounted below the switch. However, the canopy hatch is easily
removable for access to the receiver pack.
2. Put 5" [127mm] strips of masking tape on the sides
❏
of the fuselage parallel to the fuse length (two per side) as
shown. Make a mark 1/8" [3.2mm] behind the front of the
fi rewall on each piece of tape. Use a ruler to accurately draw
a 4" [102mm] line from the mark onto the top pieces of tape
and a 3" [76mm] line on the bottom pieces. Make a mark at
the aft end of each line.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
21
Page 22
3. Fit the cowl onto the fuselage. Use the spinner backplate
❏
(you may need to enlarge the hole in the backplate to match the
size of your motor shaft) to center the position of the front of
the cowl 3/32" [2.4mm] behind the backplate. T emporarily tape
the cowl in place or have a helper hold the cowl. Measure back
along the lines from the aft marks on the tape and mark on the
cowl where to drill the four cowl mounting holes.
6. Install your propeller using the prop washer and nut
❏
that came with the motor. Enlarge the propeller slots in the
spinner cone as necessary to fi t over the propeller blades. When
satisfi ed, install the spinner cone onto the backplate using the
provided screws.
4. Drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks you made on the
❏
cowl through the cowl and fuse. Remove the cowl and thread a
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
#4 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each hole in the fuse
and back it out. Apply a couple drops of thin CA to each hole
in the blocks. Enlarge the four holes in the cowl with a 1/8"
[3.2mm] bit. Install the cowl onto the fuselage using four #4 x
3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws and four #4 fl at washers.
5. If you haven’t done so already, attach the muffl er to
❏
the engine and connect the vent line from the fuel tank to the
22
muffl er. Trim it to length if needed.
7. Fit the canopy hatch in place by fi rst inserting the canopy
❏
pins into their mating holes in the fuse. Push the hatch forward
until the hooks at the aft end of the hatch can fi t into the slots.
Releasing the canopy hatch will allow the magnets to become
attached to the magnets in the fuselage, and engagement of the
hooks. The hatch should now be securely held in place. Now
attempt to remove the hatch in the reverse order.
Page 23
BATTERY PRECAUTIONS
This is how to connect four batteries in Series:
These are four 11.1 V, 3200mAh batteries.
When joined in Series, the result will be a
44.4 V, 3200mAh battery.
OKAY
8. You have now completed the assembly!
❏
APPLY THE DECALS
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fi ngerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,
submersing them in soap & water allows accurate positioning
and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the decal
down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
––––––
These are Series adapters that
connect two batteries in Series.
Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect the +’s to the
–’s and the –’s to the +’s. This combines the batteries’ voltages,
but the capacity remains the same.
This is how to connect three batteries in Series:
These are three 11.1V, 3200mAh batteries.
When joined in Series, the result will be a
33.3V, 3200mAh battery.
OKAY
Batteries of different voltages, but not different
capacities may also be connected in Series:
INSTALL AND OPERATE THE MOTOR BATTERY
(BRUSHLESS ONLY)
1. Remove the propeller. IMPORTANT: Whenever setting
❏
up or working on an electric-powered model, always remove the
propeller in case of accidentally providing power to the motor.
2. Before you can power the radio system and set up the
❏
controls, the motor batteries will need to be charged. Never charge
the motor batteries while they are in the model. Always remove the
motor batteries from the model while charging.
IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are connected
with an adapter, never charge the batteries together through the
adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately. Charge the
batteries, then read the following precautions on how to connect
multiple packs for fl ying the model.
These are three 11.1V, 3200mAh batteries and
one 7.4 V, 3200mAh battery. When joined in
Series, the result will be a 40.7V, 3200mAh battery.
Different Voltage
OKAY
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
It’s okay to connect batteries with different Voltages
in Series to achieve the new, desired Voltage.
23
Page 24
NEVER connect batteries that have
different capacities!
NO!!
Different
Capacities
SET THE CONTROL THROWS
CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
❏
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos and
reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the screws that
hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
❏
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
RIGHT AILERON
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
/
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately measure
and set the control throw of each control surface as indicated in
the chart that follows. If your radio does not have dual rates, we
recommend setting the throws at the low rate setting.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
THESE ARE THE RECOMMENDED
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS:
HIGH RATELOW RATE
UP
DOWN
[19mm]
ELEVATOR
10 deg
3/4"
3/4"
[19mm]
10 deg
[13mm]
UP
1/2"
7 deg
DOWN
1/2"
[13mm]
7 deg
3D
U & D
2-1/2"
[64mm]
37 deg
FULL
THROTTLE
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
❏
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If any
of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo
reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to
those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained
24
centered. Adjust if necessary.
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
RIGHT
2"
[51mm]
RUDDER
19 deg
UP
5/8"
[16mm]
AILERONS
12 deg
LEFT
2"
[51mm]
19 deg
DOWN
5/8"
[16mm]
12 deg
RIGHT
1-3/16"
[30mm]
11 deg
UP
3/8"
[10mm]
7 deg
LEFT
1-3/16"
[30mm]
11 deg
DOWN
3/8"
[10mm]
7 deg
L & R
3-1/2"
[89mm]
36 deg
U & D
1-3/4"
[44mm]
34 deg
Page 25
IMPORTANT: The Razor 3D ARF has been extensively fl own and tested to arrive at the throws at which it fl ies
best. Flying your model at these throws will provide you
with the greatest chance for successful fi rst fl ights. If, after
you have become accustomed to the way the Razor fl ies,
you would like to change the throws to suit your taste,
that is fi ne. However, too much control throw could make
the model diffi cult to control, so remember, “more is not
always better.”
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model fl ies, and may
determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight will be successful.
If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many
fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unfl yable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y condition with
all of the systems in place including the engine or brushless
motor, landing gear, and the radio system (and battery pack if
applicable).
1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
❏
mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 5-1/8" [130mm] back from the
leading edge of the wing.
This is where your model should balance for the fi rst fl ights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 3/8" [9.5mm] forward or 5/8" [16mm] back
to change the fl ying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but
the model may then require more speed for takeoff and
make it more diffi cult to slow for landing. Moving the
C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could
also cause it to become too diffi cult to control. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at
any time balance the model outside the specifi ed range.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
❏
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the model
is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver must be
shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to balance. If
possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver to minimize or
eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional weight is
required, nose weight may be easily added by using a “spinner
weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646
for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If spinner weight is not practical
or is not enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on”
lead. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the fi rewall
(don’t attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended to support
weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts
of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the fi rewall until the
model balances. Once you have determined the amount of
weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required,
tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse
and gluing it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the weight
to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, R TV silicone or epoxy to
permanently hold the weight in place.
4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
❏
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
❏
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuse
under the TE of the fi n. Do this several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
❏
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight
to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
❏
model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel tank, place the
model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it
upside-down at the balance point you marked.
IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have your
name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside
your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club fl ying sites and
AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the identifi cation tag on
page 20 and place it on or inside your model.
CHARGE THE BATTERIES
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should always
charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before
you go fl ying, and at other times as recommended by the radio
manufacturer.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
25
Page 26
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be fl ying
with batteries that are only partially charged.
BALANCE PROPELLERS
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before you
fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signi fi cant cause
of vibration that can damage your model. Not only will engine
mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous
effect, but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and
battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam, which will,
in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip
Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
GROUND CHECK
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confi rm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly
to full power and maintains full power—indefi nitely. After you
run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make
sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop is
secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS MAY RESULT IN SEVERE INJURY TO
YOURSELF AND OTHERS.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat, sparks
or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do not smoke near the
engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust gives off a
great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the
plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as pencils
or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into
the prop.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine. Do
not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller. Make certain the glow
plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or
otherwise get into the running propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fi ngers or any other body
part to try to stop the engine. T o stop a gasoline powered engine
an on/off switch should be connected to the engine coil. Do not
throw anything into the propeller of a running engine.
–––––––
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING
AND USAGE
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––
RANGE CHECK
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
fi rst fl ight of the day. W ith the transmitter antenna collapsed and
the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at
least 100 feet [30m] away from the model and still have control
(follow the instructions that came with your radio if you are
using a 2.4GHz system). Have an assistant stand by your model
and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
surfaces are doing. Repeat this test with the engine running
at various speeds with an assistant holding the model, using
hand signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct
the problem fi rst. Look for loose servo connections or broken
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder
joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
26
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included
with your battery. Failure to follow all instructions could
cause permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings,
and cause bodily harm!
■ ONLY use a Li-Po approved charger. NEVER use a
NiCd/NiMH peak charger!
■ NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
■ ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER
charge through the “discharge” lead.
■ NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
■ ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery
volts.
■ ALWAYS charge in a fi reproof location.
■ NEVER trickle charge.
■ NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed
150° F (65° C).
Page 27
■ NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any
way or puncture cells.
■ NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.
■ NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.
■ ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
–––––––
GENERAL
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has been proven
to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully fl ight
tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid having models fl y
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fl y my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being fl own indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that
explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted by an experienced
helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with fl ying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the fl ight line.
Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three miles
of any pre-existing fl ying site except in accordance with the
frequency sharing agreement listed [in the complete AMA
Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of the model
other than the landing gear, intentionally touch the ground,
except while landing.
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided
to make sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where
appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.
Be sure to check the items off as they are completed (that’ s
why it’s called a check list!).
1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements provided
❏
in the manual.
2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely mounted
❏
in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place with foam
rubber is not suffi cient.
3. Extend your receiver antenna.
❏
4. Balance your model laterally as explained in the
❏
instructions.
5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical fasteners
❏
such as the set screws that hold the wheel axles to the
struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if applicable),
screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn
❏
freely.
7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏
8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
9. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
❏
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises
❏
and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the
screws included with your radio.
11. Secure connections between servo wires and
❏
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable for
that purpose.
12. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
❏
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
13. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffl er with
❏
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or
J.B. Weld.
14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are not
❏
kinked.
15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏
16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏
17. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
❏
number on or inside your model.
18. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and make
❏
sure it is fully charged.
19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before your
❏
fi rst fl ight.
20. Range check your radio when you get to the fl ying fi eld.
❏
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
PREFLIGHT
27
Page 28
FLYING
The Razor 3D ARF is a great-fl ying model that fl ies smoothly
and predictably. The Razor does not, however, possess the selfrecovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be
fl own only by experienced R/C pilots.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than an uncowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should be richened
so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed. By running
the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick landings
caused by overheating.
CAUTION(THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such as
a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface fl utter.
Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an aileron or
elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly
vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme
cases, if not detected immediately, fl utter can actually cause
the control surface to detach or the fl ying surface to fail, thus
causing loss of control followed by an impending crash. The
best thing to do when fl utter is detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing power, then land as soon as safely
possible. Identify which surface fl uttered (so the problem
may be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod
linkages are secure and free of play. If it fl uttered once, under
similar circumstances it will probably fl utter again unless the
problem is fi xed. Some things which can cause fl utter are;
Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor
fi t of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by
large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo
mounting; and one of the most prevalent causes of fl utter;
Flying an over-powered model at excessive speeds.
TAKEOFF
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles on
the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds on the
runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on the ground. If
necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model will roll straight down
the runway. If you need to calm your nerves before the maiden
fl ight, shut the engine down and bring the model back into the pits.
Top off the fuel, then check all fasteners and control linkages for
peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator to
keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel steering, then
gradually advance the throttle. As the model gains speed decrease
up elevator, allowing the tail to come off the ground. One of the
most important things to remember with a tail dragger is to always
be ready to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING AND USAGE
much speed as your runway and fl ying site will practically allow
before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air.
At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more right
rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the elevator
stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb to a safe
altitude before turning into the traffi c pattern.
FLIGHT
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a good idea
to have an assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell him to remind
you to throttle back once the plane gets to a comfortable altitude.
While full throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, most models fl y
more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the Razor for the fi rst few fl ights, gradually
getting acquainted with it as you gain confi dence. Adjust the trims
to maintain straight and level fl ight. After fl ying around for a
while and while still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice
slow fl ight and execute practice landing approaches by reducing
the throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds. Add
power to see how the model climbs as well. Continue to fl y around,
executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having
your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may
be required to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way you like. Mind
your fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to become familiar with your
model before landing.
LANDING
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward to
gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain
airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto the crosswind
leg. Make your fi nal turn toward the runway (into the wind)
keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed and control. Level the
attitude when the model reaches the runway threshold, modulating
the throttle as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always
ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to
make another attempt. When you’re ready to make your landing
fl are and the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase
up elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is on the
runway and has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to place the tail
on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight plan
in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new maneuver(s),
improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or learning how the
model behaves in certain conditions (such as on high or low rates).
This is not necessarily to improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more importantly so you do not surprise yourself
by impulsively attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that
you’ve run out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should
be deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you are on
the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly reduces the
chances of crashing your model just because of poor planning and
impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
28
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