Tie Down Eliminator Vented Disc Brakes User Manual

Eliminator Vented

Disc Brake

Owner’s Manual

Eliminator Vented Disc Brakes Exclusive Features

“Whenever possible, the tendency is to use an aluminum alloy in order to reduce
weight. These alloys are much lighter and are also much better heat conductors:
220W/m.˚K for aluminum compared to 44 W/m.˚K for cast iron”. That’s 5X faster!

*Haynes Automotive Disc Brake Manual

Bi-metal Piston

Bi-metal piston combines a stainless steel outer jacket with an anodized aluminum
inner sleeve to shed braking heat 5X faster than one piece stainless pistons. The
stainless steel outer jacket is specifically designed for road salt and saltwater
conditions. U.S. Patent #7,028,813

Oversized Rubber Boot

Rubber boot is 50% thicker by design and provides for positive piston withdrawal.

Stainless Steel Bleeder Valves

Type 304 stainless steel with teflon coating for easy bleeding.

Stainless Steel Slider Pins

Stainless steel provides corrosion resistance for smoother brake operation. The hex
head design allows fast removal for easy servicing.

Vented Rotor

Eliminator rotors are vented to provide faster cooling and are available in E-coat,
GalvX coatings and Stainless Steel.

Aluminum Caliper

Aluminum sheds heat 5X faster than traditional cast iron, resulting in cooler braking
even in the worst conditions. E-coat finish protects the caliper from salt buildup in
harsh environments.

Lifetime Ceramic/Stainless Steel Brake Pads

No Dust, No Rust. Lifetime Warranty. Automotive quality ceramic brake pads with
stainless steel backing plates.

Slim Design

Slim caliper design allows for short axle overhangs and aids in faster cooling.

Bronze Bushing

Oil impregnated bronze bushings last longer, slide smoother and will NOT corrode.

Vented Rotor Disc Brakes, w/Aluminum Caliper

Read your trailer manufacturer’s operating manual and follow the towing vehicle’s
guidelines for towing capability, hitch requirements and other towing information.

Congratulations on your decision to have Tie Down Engineering vented rotor disc brakes
with aluminum calipers installed on your trailer. Disc brakes have many advantages
over drum brakes. These include:

• Greater fade resistance • Self cleaning

• Self adjusting • Less maintenance

• Greater stopping power • Easy visual inspection without removing any parts

Tie Down Engineering vented rotor disc brakes with aluminum calipers have many
exclusive features not found on automotive type brakes modified for trailer use. Please
see our web site at tiedown.com for further information on features and benefits.

Vented rotor disc brakes are designed to activate when the vehicle’s brakes are
applied. As the vehicle stops or slows, the momentum of the trailer pushes forward,
developing pressure in the actuator (master cylinder), which is used to apply pressure
to the brakes.

Operating Information

Read and understand the towing information for your trailer and actuator.
Check your trailer frequently for any leaks in the hydraulic system, which includes the
actuator, brake lines and brakes.
The brake rotors are made of steel and will show surface rust on the braking surface
when not used for a week or more. Normal use will wipe the rust off of the rotor
surface. If the trailer is used in salt water, it is recommended that you rinse off the
brakes with fresh water after each use to reduce the effects of saltwater corrosion.
Your trailer should tow easily. Disc brakes operate at a higher temperature than drum
brakes. This is normal and is very similar to the way disc brakes operate on your
vehicle. If for any reason your trailer does not tow easily or wants to veer to one side,
stop and investigate immediately and solve the problem.
Towing a trailer (even a trailer with brakes) puts an added load on the tow vehicle’s
handling and braking capabilities. Do not follow too closely; you will need extra distance
to maneuver and to stop.
Towing downhill puts added stress on both the tow vehicle and the trailer. Slow down
before you start on an incline and maintain a controlled downhill speed with repeated
application of brakes followed by a cooling period when brakes are not applied. It is
very important to start off with a slow speed and maintain it rather than trying to slow
down from a higher speed. Should you feel the brakes on the trailer or tow vehicle are
running hot or showing signs of fade, stop immediately on the side of the road and
allow the brakes to cool before resuming your trip.

2

Vented Rotor Disc Brakes, w/Aluminum Caliper

Should you feel the tow vehicle and trailer brakes are not working as they should,
have the tow vehicle and trailer inspected. Make sure your trailer’s Gross Vehicle
Weight (GVW) is within the tow vehicles capacity. If your trailer has multiple axles,
verify that the GVW of the trailer does not exceed the capacity of the brakes, which
is 3750 lbs on 10-inch (5 lug) brakes and 6000 lbs on 12-inch (6 lug) brakes, per axle.
Some states require brakes on all axles. Check with your state laws and the state laws of
where you will be using your trailer.
After long trips or downhill towing, your brakes could be very hot and it is a good idea
to let them cool down before submerging in cold water. The change in temperature of
very hot brakes submerged in water creates additional stress on the parts and could
cause damage to your brakes.
Pads must be replaced when the friction material is 3/32” or less. Original Tie
Down Engineering brake pads have a GalvX coated backing plate that aids in
corrosion resistance.

Use DOT 3 brake fluid only. DO NOT USE SILICONE BASED BRAKE FLUID.

When backing a trailer with disc brakes, you must have a lockout lever or preferably
an electrically operated solenoid to stop brake pressure to the disc brakes. The solenoid
is mounted at the rear of the actuator, between the master cylinder and brake line. It
has a wire connected to your back up lights to stop or redirect the fluid to keep the
brakes from operating.

Replace Brake Pads

1. Elevate the trailer using the manufacturers instructions. Always use jack stands
for support. Do not depend on a jack to support the trailer. Block wheels to keep
trailer from rolling.

2. Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Inspect the rotor surface. Check for excessive
wear or grooves that may affect braking. Original “Cap Style” rotor thickness

is .939” with a minimum thickness of .85” or 21.6 mm. Original “Integral”
rotor thickness is .75” with a minimum thickness of .67” or 17 mm.

3. Inspect brake pads. Minimum thickness is 3/32”. Pads should be replaced if
below this width.

4. Remove the caliper by unscrewing the slider pins from the mounting bracket. Be
careful to hold the caliper in place so that it does not fall and pull on the brake
hose. The inside pad is spring loaded in the caliper piston. Pry this pad out gently
with a flat blade screwdriver. The outside pad is held in place with two metal
tabs. Use a large pair of pliers to straighten the tabs to remove the outside pad.

5. Clean the rotor with a brake cleaning spray. Replace brake pads in reverse order.
The tabs should only be bent enough to hold the pad in place. Do not bend tab too
far or the pad will not seat correctly. Outside pad should be able to “wiggle” after
tab is bent.

6. Clean threads on slider bolts and mounting plate and apply a coating of Loctite®
or similar brand of thread lock. Tighten bolts to 40 ft. lbs. DO NOT REASSEMBLE
WITHOUT APPLYING LOCTITE® TO THE SLIDER PIN THREADS AND THE BACKING
PLATE. SLIDER PINS COULD BACK OUT AND CAUSE PERMANENT DAMAGE TO
YOUR BRAKES AND TRAILER.