Tie Down Drum Brakes User Manual

Drum Brake

Owner’s Manual

Drum Brake Information

If your trailer is equipped with hydraulic drum brakes, the brakes are activated by
the surge actuator/coupler located on the front end of the trailer tongue. When the tow
vehicle stops, the trailer pushes into the tow vehicle, compressing the master cylinder
that is located inside the actuator. The master cylinder forces brake fluid to the drum
brakes. Inside each drum brake is a wheel cylinder that expands with the surge of
brake fluid, pushing the brake shoes against the inside of the brake drum.

Drum brakes must be periodically adjusted. Recommended service intervals are after
the first 500 miles and then every 1000 miles. Drum brakes also must be flushed when
submerged in saltwater or towed in road conditions where salting of the roads is done
to improve driving conditions.

Many marine and trailer accessory companies offer drum brake flush kits. If you use
your trailer in these conditions, it is recommended that you install a flush kit, if your
trailer did not come equipped with the flush kit.

Model 660 Drum Brake Actuator
Part #82400

Single Axle Brake Line Kit

Part #80326

Trailer Brake Flush Kit
Part #81107

Drum Brake Installation

1. Using an adequate capacity floor or scissors jack, raise the side of the trailer.
Block the wheels opposite the side being worked on both front and rear so that the
trailer cannot roll. DO NOT rely on the jack as the only means of support.
Always support the trailer with adequate capacity support stands.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS THE TRAILER TO BE SUPPORTED BY THE

TONGUE JACK WHILE BEING RAISED AT THE WHEELS!

NOTE: Check under frames for brake lines BEFORE lifting. DO NOT position jack in

areas that may damage brake lines, etc.

NOTE: For tandem and tri-axle trailers, jack should be placed on the frame between
the wheels, or directly under the axle within 8” of the backside of the tire. Single
axle trailers can be lifted on the frame just behind the axle or directly under the axle
within 8” of the backside of the tire (if lifting at the axle).

2. Remove the wheels

3. Remove the dust cap.

4. If your spindle has a tang washer, pull up on the tab so you can unlock and remove
the castle nut. If you have a cotter pin, pull it out and remove the castle nut.

5. Remove the hub. It may be helpful to release tension to the brakes pads by backing
off the star adjuster.

6. Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines or the electric brake wires.

7. Remove the backing plate by removing the 4 or 5 mounting bolts holding the brake to
the brake flange. Clean the spindle and brake flange.

8. Determine which side the brakes go on. The brakes should be labeled “L” for Drivers
side & “R” for Passenger side. If the labels have been removed, simply look at the
master cylinder on top (for hydraulic brakes), the piston inside the master cylinder
will always point forward. For Electric brakes look at the magnet bracket, the curved
bracket should point forward with the open end towards the back. See next page.

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Drum Brake Installation

Hydraulic Brake

“Left” Drivers Side

Electric Brake

“Left” Drivers Side

9. Mount the brake assembly to the brake flange with the mounting bolts.
Mounting bolts should torque to 40 ft lbs.

10. Inspect the original hub. Check the seal & bearings for wear. If there is any doubt
whatsoever, go ahead and replace the seal and bearings and repack with
fresh grease.

11. Reinstall the hub. Push the hub back into place. Make sure your bearings are seated.

Hydraulic Brake

“Right” Passengers Side

Electric Brake

“Right” Passengers Side

12. Install the washer and use a new tang washer. It is always a good idea to replace it,
just like a cotter pin.

13. Reinstall a castle nut, run it down until it stops. Rock the hub back and forth a little
bit. Spin the hub a little bit. Make sure everything is seated. Run the castle nut down
until it stops and then back off to the next notch, then align hole in castle nut with
the hole in the spindle and insert cotter key.

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