Tie Down Drum Brakes User Manual

Drum Brake

Owner’s Manual

Drum Brake Information

If your trailer is equipped with hydraulic drum brakes, the brakes are activated by
the surge actuator/coupler located on the front end of the trailer tongue. When the tow
vehicle stops, the trailer pushes into the tow vehicle, compressing the master cylinder
that is located inside the actuator. The master cylinder forces brake fluid to the drum
brakes. Inside each drum brake is a wheel cylinder that expands with the surge of
brake fluid, pushing the brake shoes against the inside of the brake drum.

Drum brakes must be periodically adjusted. Recommended service intervals are after
the first 500 miles and then every 1000 miles. Drum brakes also must be flushed when
submerged in saltwater or towed in road conditions where salting of the roads is done
to improve driving conditions.

Many marine and trailer accessory companies offer drum brake flush kits. If you use
your trailer in these conditions, it is recommended that you install a flush kit, if your
trailer did not come equipped with the flush kit.

Model 660 Drum Brake Actuator
Part #82400

Single Axle Brake Line Kit

Part #80326

Trailer Brake Flush Kit
Part #81107

Drum Brake Installation

1. Using an adequate capacity floor or scissors jack, raise the side of the trailer.
Block the wheels opposite the side being worked on both front and rear so that the
trailer cannot roll. DO NOT rely on the jack as the only means of support.
Always support the trailer with adequate capacity support stands.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS THE TRAILER TO BE SUPPORTED BY THE

TONGUE JACK WHILE BEING RAISED AT THE WHEELS!

NOTE: Check under frames for brake lines BEFORE lifting. DO NOT position jack in

areas that may damage brake lines, etc.

NOTE: For tandem and tri-axle trailers, jack should be placed on the frame between
the wheels, or directly under the axle within 8” of the backside of the tire. Single
axle trailers can be lifted on the frame just behind the axle or directly under the axle
within 8” of the backside of the tire (if lifting at the axle).

2. Remove the wheels

3. Remove the dust cap.

4. If your spindle has a tang washer, pull up on the tab so you can unlock and remove
the castle nut. If you have a cotter pin, pull it out and remove the castle nut.

5. Remove the hub. It may be helpful to release tension to the brakes pads by backing
off the star adjuster.

6. Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines or the electric brake wires.

7. Remove the backing plate by removing the 4 or 5 mounting bolts holding the brake to
the brake flange. Clean the spindle and brake flange.

8. Determine which side the brakes go on. The brakes should be labeled “L” for Drivers
side & “R” for Passenger side. If the labels have been removed, simply look at the
master cylinder on top (for hydraulic brakes), the piston inside the master cylinder
will always point forward. For Electric brakes look at the magnet bracket, the curved
bracket should point forward with the open end towards the back. See next page.

Page 2

Drum Brake Installation

Hydraulic Brake

“Left” Drivers Side

Electric Brake

“Left” Drivers Side

9. Mount the brake assembly to the brake flange with the mounting bolts.
Mounting bolts should torque to 40 ft lbs.

10. Inspect the original hub. Check the seal & bearings for wear. If there is any doubt
whatsoever, go ahead and replace the seal and bearings and repack with
fresh grease.

11. Reinstall the hub. Push the hub back into place. Make sure your bearings are seated.

Hydraulic Brake

“Right” Passengers Side

Electric Brake

“Right” Passengers Side

12. Install the washer and use a new tang washer. It is always a good idea to replace it,
just like a cotter pin.

13. Reinstall a castle nut, run it down until it stops. Rock the hub back and forth a little
bit. Spin the hub a little bit. Make sure everything is seated. Run the castle nut down
until it stops and then back off to the next notch, then align hole in castle nut with
the hole in the spindle and insert cotter key.

Page 3

Drum Brake Installation

14. Install the dust cap.

15. Reattach electric brake wires or reconnect hydraulic brake lines and follow
instructions for hydraulic bleeding.

Adjusting The Brakes

16. With trailer wheel off the ground and tire
mounted, remove the rubber access hole
plugs from the rear of the brake
backing plate.

17. Inserting a brake spoon or flat screwdriver
through the access hole(s), tighten the star
adjuster while rotating the wheel in the
forward direction.
NOTE: Always spin wheel in the forward

direction as if the trailer was traveling
forward on the road. Tighten the star
adjuster until the wheel reaches a point
where the brake shoes start to engage.

18. Loosen the star adjuster one click at a time while turning the wheel in a forward
rotation. Continue adjusting one click at a time until the wheel rotates with
little effort.

19. Replace the rubber access hole plugs.

20. Repeat this procedure for all braking wheels.

Page 4

Bleeding the Brake System - Hydraulic Drum Brakes Only

Use only DOT 3 heavy duty fluid in the actuator. Do not re-use brake fluid. Do not
use any other type of brake fluid other than DOT 3.

If pressure bleeding equipment is available, follow the manufacturer’s instructions
in bleeding the system. These types of brake bleeders are available at your local
automotive supply store.

Manually Bleeding, Pumping the Actuator: Insert a heavy-duty flat blade screwdriver
into the hole provided on top of the actuator near the front. Catch the bleeding latch
bracket with a screwdriver and, with a pumping action, tilt the screwdriver front to
back in a rocking motion to activate the master cylinder in order to bleed the brakes.

To bleed master cylinder and brakes, install bleeder hose on first wheel cylinder to
be bled; if tandem axle trailer, bleed furthermost axle first, and the furthermost brake
on that axle first. Loosen the bleeder screw located in the wheel cylinder one turn, the
system is now open to the atmosphere. Attach a loose end of a hose from the bleeder
valve with the other end submerged in a glass container of brake fluid. While pumping
the actuator watch and observe the bubbling (hose must be submerged into clean brake
fluid to keep air from traveling back into the brake cylinder).

The bleeding operation for that brake is complete when bubbling stops. Be sure to
tighten bleeder screw securely.

Each wheel cylinder must be bleed until all air is out of the lines. Replenish the
brake fluid during the bleeding process so the level does not fall below half full level in
the master cylinder reservoir. When bleeding and testing is completed, make sure
master cylinder is filled to 3/8” below the top of the reservoir and filler cap is securely
in place.

WARNING
Brakes should always be rinsed with fresh water after using trailer in corrosive
conditions. This includes salt water, fertilizers and other corrosive materials.
Before storing trailer remove brakes and clean thoroughly. It is also wise to
repack the bearings at the same time.

WARNING
DO NOT REUSE BRAKE FLUID. Always use fresh DOT 3 fluid from a fresh
container. Failure to maintain proper levels of fluid will cause brake failure.

Page 5

Electric Drum Brake Information

Electric brakes are activated by a brake controller located in the tow vehicle. This is
generally an accessory that must be purchased separately. Please research before
buying. Some controllers work better with different brand tow vehicles.

Electric drum brakes are not recommended for marine applications.

Electric brakes are individually adjusted in the same way the hydraulic drum brakes
are adjusted, which is covered in this manual. The electric drum brakes work by an
electrical current going to the brakes and activating a magnet. The magnet is then
attracted to the inside wall of the drum hub. This drags the magnet and pushes the
brake shoes out against the drum hub. The brake controller is generally adjustable to
regulate the amount of current given to the magnets/drum brakes. This adjustment
controls the amount of braking force applied.

Wires are connected to the brakes by one of two methods:

1. Plug in wires.

2. Twist wires with a wire cap cover.

There is not a specified positive/negative connection at the brakes.

Page 6

Hydraulic Drum Brake Trouble Shooting

Symptoms Possible Cause

Noise or brake chatter Improper brake adjustment.

Brake fluid or grease on lining.
Improperly adjusted or worn wheel bearing.
Drum out of round.
Dirt on drum or lining surface.
Dust in rivet holes.
Lining glazed or worn.
Scored drum.
Loose backing plate.
Weak or broken return springs.

Only one brake is activating Improper brake adjustment.
(see brake adjustment)
Brake line is restricted.
Improperly adjusted or worn wheel bearing.
Drum out of round.
Loose backing plate.
Faulty wheel cylinder.
Weak or broken shoe return spring.
Glazed or worn lining.
Loose lining.
Air in hydraulic system.
Dirty brake fluid.

All brakes drag Faulty actuator.
Mechanical resistance at actuator or shoes.
Brake lines restricted.
Dirty brake fluid.
Faulty back up solenoid (if used).

Brakes do not apply Leaks or insufficient brake fluid.
Air in hydraulic system.
Improper brake adjustment.
Faulty actuator.
Lining glazed or worn.
Brake fluid or grease on lining.
Dirty brake fluid.

Leaking wheel cylinder Check and replace wheel cylinder and
bleed brakes.

Seized wheel cylinder piston Check and replace wheel cylinder and bleed brakes.

Page 7

Retainer Washer

Wheel Adjuster Assembly

Dust Plugs

Retainer Washer

Wheel Cylinder Assembly

Upper Return
Spring

Right Brake Pad
(Trailing Shoe)

Left Brake Pa d
(Leading Shoe)

Lower Return Spring

Rear Upper
Return Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Shoe Pin

Adjuster Shim

Return Spring

Wheel Adjuster Assembly

Dust Plugs

Retainer Washer

Wheel Cylinder Assembly

Upper Return
Spring

Right Brake Pad
(Trailing Shoe)

Lower Return Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Hold Down

Primary Pad

Actuating Level

Arm

Right Brake Pad
(Trailing Shoe)

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Magnet & Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Primary Pad

Actuating Level

Arm

Return Spring

Hydraulic Drum Brake Parts

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Return Spring

Adjuster Shim

Shoe Pin

Left Brake Pa d
(Leading Shoe)

Rear Upper
Return Spring

Drum Wheel Cylinder Kit for
10” & 12” Brakes
includes; LH & RH Wheel Cylinder
and mounting screws Part #80994

Wheel Cylinder Assembly

Upper Return
Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Right Brake Pad

Dust Plugs

(Trailing Shoe)

Wheel Adjuster Assembly

Lower Return Spring

Drum Replacement Parts Kit

(Free backing & Uni-Servo) includes all parts shown,
excluding pads, back plate and wheel cylinder
10” Parts Kit Part #81096
12” Parts Kit Part #81095

Brake Pad Replacement Kits

Kits include brake pad sets for left and
right side brakes
7” Free backing Shoe (lining) Kit Part #81113
10” Free backing Shoe (lining) Kit Part #81108
12” Free backing Shoe (lining) Kit Part #81109

Page 8

Brake Adjuster

Dust Plugs

Actuating Cam

Upper Return
Spring

Secondary Pa d

Lower Return Spring

Magnet & Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Primary Pa d

Actuating Level

Arm

Return Spring

Electric Drum Brake Trouble Shooting

Symptoms Possible Cause

Noise or brake chatter Improper brake adjustment.

Oil or grease on lining.
Improperly adjusted or worn wheel bearing.
Drum out of round.
Dirt on drum or magnet surface.
Dust in rivet holes.
Lining glazed or worn.
Scored drum.
Loose backing plate.
Weak or broken return springs.

Only one brake is activating Improper brake adjustment. (see brake adjustment)
Improperly adjusted or worn wheel bearing.
Drum out of round.
Loose backing plate.
Weak or broken shoe return spring.
Glazed or worn lining.
Loose lining.
Bad connection at tow vehicle.
Broken or disconnected wire.
Bad magnet.
Dirt or grease inside hub surface.

All brakes drag Faulty or improperly adjusted brake controller.
Improperly wired brake connection.
Mechanical resistance at actuator or shoes.

Brakes do not apply Faulty brake controller.
Improperly adjusted brake controller.
Brake wires not connected to tow vehicle.
Bad Magnets.
Improper brake adjustment.
Lining glazed or worn.
Dirt or grease inside hub surface.
Damaged wiring.

Page 9

Electric Drum Brake Parts

Brake Adjuster

Dust Plugs

Actuating Cam

Upper Return
Spring

Secondary Pa d

Lower Return Spring

Magnet & Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Primary Pa d

Actuating Level

Arm

Return Spring

Brake Adjuster

Dust Plugs

Actuating Cam

Upper Return
Spring

Secondary Pa d

Lower Return Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Upper Return
Spring

Secondary Pa d

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Primary Pa d

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Magnet & Spring

Return Spring

Actuating Level

Arm

Spring/Adjuster Replacement Kit

for 10” & 12” brakes Part #82075

Actuating Cam

Upper Return
Spring

Hold Down
Spring
Assembly

Secondary Pa d

Dust Plugs

Brake Adjuster

Lower Return Spring

Magnet, Wiring & Spring Assembly

10” Magnet Assembly Part #82078
12” Magnet Assembly Part #82079

Pad Replacement Kits

10” Electric Shoe (lining) Kit Part #82076
12” Electric Shoe (lining) Kit Part #82077

Page 10

Drum Brake

Owner’s Manual

TIE DOWN ENGINEERING

255 Villanova Drive SW, Atlanta, GA 30336

[phone] • Fax [phone]

ISO 9001:2008 Certified Company

© 2014 TIE DOWN Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Instruction Manual #08095

081814,C934