THUNDER TIGER Dragonfly 15 Assembly Instructions Manual

WARRANTY
Thunder Tiger Model Company guarantees this model kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at date of manufacture.This warranty does not cov er any components damaged by use or modification and in no case shall Thunder Tiger’s liability exceed the original purchase price of the kit. Thunder Tiger also reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
Since Thunder Tiger Model Co. has no control over possible shipping damages or construction tech­niques and materials used for construction by the modeler, no liability can be assumed nor accepted for damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using this user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.If the buyer is not prepared to accept this liability, he should return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase for a full refund.
Assembly Instructions
Item No. 4574
JE6640
Specifications:
Wing Span: 44"(1116mm) Length: 35 1/4" (896mm) Weight: 37~40 oz.(1050~1150g) Engine: .10~.15 req'd Radio: 3~4 channel req'd
2
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
All of us at Thunder Tiger want to thank you for choosing the best looking, easiest building and best flying ARF trainer availab le the ...Dragonfly 15.This kit features state-of-the-art engineering that provides quick and easy assembly of a strong, yet lightweight airplane that will give you an enjoyable and educational experience.
To gain the most from this air plane kit, it is important that you read the instructions thoroughly and then follow them e xactly.This instruction manual has been written with a novice modeler in mind, but includes many hints and modeling tips that even experienced modelers can benefit from. We strongly suggest that you read through the instructions completely before beginning construction.This will give you a good idea of the construction sequence and eliminate many questions you might have if you did not read the manual prior to starting the actual construction.
The first thing you should do before beginning assembly is to check the contents of your kit against the parts list on page 4. If any parts are missing, contact your dealer immediately for replacement. Customers in the United States and Canada may contact Ace Hobby Distrib utors at 2055 Main Street, Irvine, CA 92614 1-949-833-7498 for replacement parts. Under no circumstances can a kit be retur
ned
if assemb
ly has already been started.
Introduction
.............................2
Other Items Required
................... 2
Items Need Check List ................. 3
Parts List
.............................. 4
Pre-Assembly Notes
.................... 5
Wing
................................... 5-6
Tail Feathers
............................ 6
Fuselage ............................... 7
Install the Engine........................8-9
Control Horn............................ 9-10
Servo Installation........................10-12
Radio Adjustment........................13
Balance
.................................14
Pre-Flight Check
........................15
Post-Flight check list.....................16
A checklist is also provided on the next page which willmake shopping for these items easier.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
FOR ASSEMBLY
Radio - A 4-channel radio with four standard
servos is required. Most lower priced 4-channel radios only come with three standard servos so you may need to purchase the four th servo separately.
3
ITEMS NEEDED
Adhesives - You will need two types of adhe-
sives for the Dragonfly - Epoxy and Instant (cyanoacrylate) adhesives.We recommend that you purchase both 5-minute and 30-minute epoxy to cut down on assembly time, but you can get by with only 30-minute epoxy if time is not important. You will also need a small bottle of both “Thick” and “Thin” instant adhesive.
Tools - Model assembly can be much easier if the proper tools are used. Therefore, we have included in our checklist to the right, a complete listing of all the tools we used to assemble our prototype models. As you will notice, many household tools can be utilized during construction.
Engine - The Thunder Tiger GP-15 is the ideal engine for this airplane. This quiet running engine is easy to start, requires no special break-in periods, is very easy to maintain and will last for years.
Flight Equipment - There are several “support” items that you will need to purchase in order to get your engine running and your plane in the air.These are listed at the bottom of the page.
Comprehensive Items Needed
Check List
4-Channel Radio with 4 Standard Ser vos5-Minute Epoxy (4 ounces or so)30-Minute Epoxy (4 ounces or so)“Thin” Instant Adhesive (1/2 ounce)
Thick” Instant Adhesive (1/2 ounce)
Hobby Knife and BladesEpoxy Mixing Sticks and/or BrushesSandpaper (80, 150 grit)Masking TapeRubbing AlcoholPaper TowelsRuler90 Degree TriangleWaxed PaperFine-Point, Felt-Tip Pen Misc. Household ToolsDrill and Bits (1/16", 5/64", 1/8")
Flight Equipment
Foam Rubber Padding for the radioStick on Lead Strip for balancing the plane3 or 4 Props (see engine instructions)10%-15% Glow FuelFuel Pump or BulbElectric Starter or “Chicken Stick”Glow Plug Clip and BatteryExtra Glow Plug(s)
4
PARTS SKETCHES
No. 3268 Tank
ORDER BY BAG NUMBER ONLY INDIVIDUAL PARTS NOT AVAILABLE
AS6271 Main Wing
Joiner(2)
Nylon T orque Horn(2)
Wing Protector(1)
Left Wing(1) Right Wing(1)
AS6272 Horizontal Tail
CA Hinge(4)
AS6270 Fuselage
Rubber Band(6)
No.3280W Spinner
2.8x8mm
Self T apping Screw(2)
Horizontall T ail(1)
Dowel(2)
AS6273 Vertical Tail
CA Hinge(2)
No. 3268 Tank
Silicone Tube(1) Straight Nipple (1)
Crank Weight (1)
Fuel Cap (1)
Vertical Tail(1)
Fuel Stopper (1)
120cc (4oz.)
Fuselage(1)
Aileron Servo Stand(2)
No.3254 Wheel
Wheel(2)
M3 Spring Washer(4)3x14mm Machine Screw(4)M3 Washer(4)M3 Nut(4)
AS6275 Linkage Set
Guide Tube(1)
Piano Wire(1)
CA Hinge(6)
Back Plate(1)
Spinner(1)
90-degree Nipple (1)
PE0009 Hardware Set
Hex Wrench(1)
EZ Connector(1)
3x3mm Set Screw(1)
M2 Nut(1)
M2 Washer(2)
AS6274 Nylon Pushrod
Inner Rod(2)
AS6276 Main Landing Gear
Main Gear(1)
Retainer(3)
Collar(2)
Wood Screw(6)
Outer Rod(2)
3x12mm
Brass Tube(2)
Clevis(2)Z bent Threaded End(2) Straight Threaded End(2)
Tank (1)
2.6x5mm
Machine Screw(2)
AS6278 Decal
Aileron Pushrod(2)
Clevis(2)
AS6243 Control Horn
Backplate(2)
Control Horn Base(2)
Nylon T orque Horn(2)
2x22mm Screw(2)
Decal(1)
2.Tr ial fit the wing joiner into one of the wing pan-
els, sand it until it fits smoothly. Next, slide the other wing half onto the joiner until the wing panels meet. Mix approximately three ounces of 30-Minute Epoxy. Note: When joining the wing halves it is extremely important to use plenty of epoxy. Use a mixing stick or scrap piece of wood to apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner slot of one wing half. Ensure that the
epoxy is applied to all sides of the slot.
3.Coat one half of the joiner with epoxy up to the
centerline. Install the epoxy-coated side of the joiner into the wing joiner slot, making sure that the joiner is positioned correctly. Lightly coat the epoxy on all sides of the exposed area of joiner and wing roots as well as the slot of the other wing half.Carefully slide the wing halves togeth­er, ensuring that they are accurately aligned. Firmly press the two halves together and wipe off the excess epoxy. There should not be any gap between the wing halves.You might wisely use mask tape to hold the wing together. Allow the wing joint to cure.
5
PRE-ASSEMBLY
PRE-ASSEMBLY NOTE
1.If you are not an experienced R/C pilot, plan to have a fully competent pilot check your complet­ed model and help you with your first flights. Even though we have tried to provide you with a very thorough instruction manual, R/C models are rather complicated and an experienced modeler can quickly check over your model to make sure your first flights are successful.
2.Please assemble your model according to these instructions. Do not attempt to modify or change in any way as doing so ma y adv ersely change its flying characteristics.
3.Before you begin, please check the entire con­tents of this kit against the parts list and photo to make sure that no parts are missing or dam­aged. This will also help you to become familiar with each component of your plane. If you find that any of the parts are either missing or dam­aged, please contact your dealer immediately for replacement.
Note:Your dealer cannot accept kits for return if construction has begun.
WING ASSEMBLY
1.Locate two wing joiners and sand gently to
remove any rough edges. Apply 5-Minute epoxy or thick CA to glue two joiners together. Clamp the two joiners together using clothespins, or other small clamps and wipe off the excess epoxy before it cures. Allow the epoxy to cure
before removing the clamps.
TAIL FEATHERS
7.Use the same way as you did on aileron to glue
the rudder and elevator on the tails. Using a hobby knife , carefully cut out the co v ering at the center of horizontal tail slot .The vertical tail will later be inserted into this slot. Install the tail on the fuselage. Use a felt tip pen or marker to draw lines along the fuselage sides as well as the bottom side of horizontal tail.
8.Remove the tails from the fuselage and use a
hobby knife to carefully score the covering material where marked.Make the score approx­imately 1/16" (1.5mm) inside the lines you drew. It is very important that you do not press hard enough to cut into the wood itself or it may fail in flight. Just score the covering and it will peel away nicely.
4.Locate the plastic wing protector plate and light-
ly sand the edges on one side of the plate by 80-grit sandpaper. Center the plate across the wing joint and flush with the trailing edge then glue with thick CA.
5.To hinge the ailerons, remove the clear tape that
holds one of the ailerons in place. Pull the aileron off the wing, revealing three hinges. Position the hinge in the center by a ball pin or T pin.
6.Attach the aileron to the trailing edge, remo v e all
pins then drop thin CA to the hinges at both sides.
6
TAIL FEATHERS
LANDING GEAR
11.Locate the main landing gear and the three
retainers. Place the landing gear and retainer on the fuselage bottom as shown.Make marks on the retainer holes. ( About 5” away from the nose).
12.Drill 1/16"(1.5mm) holes on the marks you
made.
13.Screw the landing gear with the furnished six
3x12 wood screws. Insert the brass tube to the wheel first then secure the collar with 2.6x5mm set screw. Make sure the wheels rotates freely.
9.Apply 5-Minute Epoxy or thick CA onto the hor-
izontal tail and vertical tail along the area where the covering were removed. Attach the hor izon­tal tail and vertical tail onto the fuselage.Note, it is important to ensure that the horizontal tail is level in regards to the fuselage and the ver tical tail is perpendicular to the horizontal tail as shown. Wipe off any excess epoxy and secure by masking tape. Allow the epoxy to cure com­pletely.
10.Trail fit the tail assembly to the fuselage.
Remove the covering at the contact area then apply enough 5-Minute Epoxy to the contact area inside the fuselage and do not move it until it cured.
7
FUSELAGE
90˚
does, simply cut a small portion of the fuel tub­ing until the clunk no longer reaches the rear of the tank.
16.Cut two 5” (12cm) long of standard size sili-
cone fuel tubing (not furnished) and slip one end onto the nipple extending out of the cap and the other onto the top vent of the fuel tank. Slide the fuel tank (cap end first) into the fuse­lage from the wing saddle area, threading the fuel lines through the oblong hole in the fire­wall. The tank should fit tightly in the forward formers.
ENGINE
17.Position the engine on the engine mount
beams so the distance from the prop hub to the firewall is exactly 3 1/2"( 89mm). Using a pencil or felt tipped pen, mark the engine mounting plate where the four holes are to be drilled. Note:Mark the mounting plate through the engine mounting flanges. Remove the engine and drill a 1/8"(3mm) hole through the beam at each of the four marks.
14.Locate the four pre-drilled wing dowel holes,
two on either side of the fuselage. Using a sharp hobby knife, carefully cut the covering away from each of the holes Insert one of the wooden dowels into each of the wing dowel holes. Ensure that an equal amount of dowel extends from each side of the fuselage. You might apply a thin coat of epoxy to the wing dowels to prevent the dowels from becoming fuel-soaked during flight.
FUEL T ANK
15.Locate the fuel tank and the fuel tank acces-
sories. Assemble the fuel tank by first cutting the silicone tube to 2"(53mm) in length. Press the straight plastic nipple (the 90-degree nip­ple is not used in this plane) into the rubber stopper until the molded-in ring is against the stopper. Rubbing alcohol applied to the nipple will make it slip into the stopper easier. Now slip the silicone tubing onto the nipple and insert the metal clunk into the other end of the tubing. Insert this assembly into the tank (clunk first) and securely tighten the threaded cap on to hold everything together. Note: It is important to ensure that the fuel tank clunk does not touch the rear of the fuel tank. If it
8
INST ALL THE ENGINE
20.Locate the plastic pushrod tube through the
pre-drilled hole in the firewall of the fuselage until approximately 1/2"(1.5mm) of the tube protrudes from the firewall. Secure the tube with 5-Minute Epoxy. Locate a Z bent throttle pushrod, Slide the wire, straight end first, into the pushrod tube. Insert the Z bent into the hole on the throttle lever of your engine. Note: It may be easier to temporarily remove the throttle lever from the engine to insert the Z bent end.
CONTROL HORNS
21.Locate the linkage rods include straight thread-
ed end, Z bent threaded end , nylon inner rod. Thread the nylon rod onto the straight thread end first as shown. At least 3/8"(9mm) in length.
18.Using a Philips screwdriver, firmly secure the
engine by four 3x14mm machine screw, M3 spring washers, M3 washer and M3 nuts. Install the muffler as per the instructions included with the engine. Connect the vent tube from the fuel tank to the nipple, or pres­sure fitting, on the muffler.The remaining fuel tube should be attached to the carburetor inlet nipple.
19.Remove the propeller nut and prop washer
from the engine. Install the spinner back plate on the crankshaft, followed by the propeller, the prop nut and finally the spinner nose cone. Securely attach the spinner nose cone to the spinner back plate using the two screws pro­vided in the hardware bag and a Philips screwdriver.
9
CONTROL HORNS
24.Attach the control horn using the hardware pro-
vided ( 2x22mm screws, back plate, control horn base and nylon horn) and fasten in place using a Philips screwdriver. Make sure the back plate and control horn base are both in line at two sides on the elevator. Thread the nylon horn on to the screw then snap the cle­vis onto the horn.
SERVO INSTALLATION
25.Thread the Z bent threaded end to the nylon
inner rods as shown. Before you thread, it might need to cut the nylon rod as it is too long. Note the servo orientation in the next step.Refer to the photo, mak e sure y ou thread the Z bent threaded end to the nylon rod for 3/8"(9mm) in length and the Z bent end is about at the position of servo horn where is going to link.
22.Insert the pushrod to the holes on former, the
lower one is elevator pushrod and the other is rudder pushrod. Attach the plastic clevises at least 1/4"( 6mm) in length.
23.Turn the fuselage over and place one of the
control horns on the bottom of the elevator. Hold the control horn against the bottom of the elevator so it is approximately 1/8" (3mm) behind the hinge line and in line with the pushrod exit hole.Using a felt tipped pen or a pencil mark the mounting hole positions. Remove the control horn and drill two 5/64" (2mm) holes through the elevator as shown.
10
CONTROL HORNS
26.Refer to manual of radio then install the rubber
grommets and eyelets which come with your servos. Secure the servo with the servo screw as shown. Attach the Z bent end to the ser vo horn . With radio is on and centered, adjust the pushrod length either by threading the cle­vis or Z bent threaded end so the elevator is level when servo is in neutral position with servo horn installed.
27.Same procedure on r udder servo. We recom-
mend you use the servo arm instead of round servo horn on rudder ser vo.
28.When everything is set, slip a short piece of
fuel line over all clevises to prevent them from snapping open in flight.
29.Locate the EZ connector set which includes
3x3mm set screw, two M2 washers, m2 nut and an EZ connector. Install the connector on the servo arm as shown. It might need to enlarge the hole on servo arm to make sure it rotates freely. It is wisely to apply little CA to the M2 nut from loosing.
30.Align the pushrod tube with the throttle servo.
To prevent any possible binding, the pushrod tube should be shortened so it does not inter­fere with the servo arm travel. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut the pushrod tube accordingly. Insert the pushrod wire through the pushrod connector. Secure the pushrod in place using a 3x3mm set screw.
11
SERVO INSTALLATION
31.The switch should be mounted on the left side
of the fuselage, using a sharp hobby knife carefully cut the opening for the switch.Detach the switch plate from the receiver switch har­ness. Using the switch plate as a template, Drill the two mounting holes using a 5/64" drill bit.Secure the switch in place as shown.Route the antenna back through the fuselage or route it outside the fuselage back to the verti­cal tail.
32.Locate two aileron servo stands. Remove the
covering where is going to glue the stand as shown. Apply 5-Minute Epoxy to the aileron servo stand. Remove any excess epoxy and allow epoxy to cure.
12
SERVO INSTALLATION
33.Install the r ubber servo grommets and eyelets
in the aileron servo. Next, secure the aileron servo in place as illustrated.
34.Locate two aileron torque rod horns, two long
Z bent threaded aileron pushrod and two cle­vises. Thread the horns on aileron torque rod until the threaded portion is flush with aileron torque rod horn. Next, thread the clevises on pushrod.With the aileron servo horn in its neu­tral position, insert the Z bent end of two pushrods to servo arm. Snap clevises onto aileron torque rod horns. Adjust the clevis to make sure two ailerons are level with trailing edge.Thread a small piece of fuel tube to hold clevis.
Congratulations
You are ready to fly. Don't forget to balance your
plane and fine tune the all control surfaces.
13
RADIO ADJUSTMENT
Adjust the linkages so you get the proper amount and direction of control throws as illustrated. To INCREASE the amount of movement, move the linkage outward on the servo arm OR inward on the control horn. To DECREASE the amount of movement, move the linkage inward on the servo arm OR outward on the control horn.
UP
UP ELEVATOR
DOWN ELEVATOR
RIGHT AILERON: Aileron on the right moves upward; aileron on the left moves downward.
HIGH THROTTLE
LOW THROTTLE
LEFT AILERON: Aileron on the left moves
upward; aileron on the right moves downward.
1/2” UP
1/2” DOWN
1/4” UP
5/16” DOWN
DOWN
ELEVATOR AILERONS
THROTTLE
LEFT RUDDER RIGHT RUDDER
1/2” LEFT
1/2” RIGHT
RUDDER/NOSE WHEEL
14
BALANCE
BALANCING Y OUR PLANE
IMPORTANT- Do not attempt to fly your model
before completing this very important section. A model that is not properly balanced will be unsta­ble and could cause serious damage and/or injury.
The balance point for this model is 3"(75mm) behind the leading edge of the wing. Measure this distance and mark it on both sides of the fuselage right under the wing. With your model fully assem­bled but without fuel, pick it up with your index fin­gers at each of the two balance marks you made earlier.If balanced proper ly, the plane will hang hor­izontally. If the plane hangs with the tail down, then you need to add (or redistribute) some weight in the nose. Usually the plane will either balance or hang slightly tail heavy. The easiest cure for a tail heavy plane is to move the receiver and battery forward as far as possible. If the plane hangs nose down, then you need to add some weight to the tail. Stick-on lead weights are available from your hobby dealer that will make adding weight a simple task. Once you have everything positioned as necessary, wrap your receiver and battery pack in 1/4" or 1/2" thick foam for protection.
PRE-FLIGHT
If you are an experienced pilot, some of the following text will not apply to you. Simply disregard references to “your first flights.”
LOCATE A GOOD FLYING SITE
Generally, the best place to fly your model is at an AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) chartered club field.Your local hobby dealer can tell you if there is such a club in your area or write the AMA for information. It is also a good idea to join this organization before flying your model since they offer liability insurance that can protect you if your model causes damage or injury to others.
Academy of Model Aeronautics 5151 East Memorial Dr. Muncie, IN 47302-9252
If there is not a chartered club field in your com­munity, you will need to find a large area free of obstructions, that has a smooth grass or asphalt sur­face to be used as a runway. For safety’s sake, it should be located well away from houses, building, schools, power lines and airports. If you will be flying within 6 mile of an airpor t, you should check with the airpor t manager before flying your model.
ANOTEONBATTERIES
The batteries are the heart of your radio system. Make sure you have fully charged batteries! With rechargeable batteries, follow the manufacturers instructions to make sure the batteries are fully charged, especially the first time the radio is used.
3" (75mm)
15
PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS
If your radio uses dry cells, make sure your bat­teries are in new condition.You have a lot of money invested in this project so it is not worth the risk of using old batteries.
PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS
You should perform these checks before each fly­ing session.
1. Check all control surfaces for possible loose-
ness or deterioration.
2. Check all screws, rubber band, clevises, nuts
and all other connectors to make sure they are securely fastened.
3. Check which radio frequencies are being
used. Do not turn on your radio until absolute­ly sure you are the only one operating on that frequency.
4. Check for proper operation of all control sur-
faces.
5. Check the level of charge in both the transmit-
ter and receiver batteries before flying.
6. Range check the radio both with and with-out
the engine running! Follow the radio manufac­turers instructions for this.
FLYING
Learning to fly a radio control aircraft can be very exciting, but it is important that you thoroughly understand the basics of flight and controls before you attempt your first flights. Therefore, we highly recommend that you seek the expertise of an expe­rienced instructor pilot for the first few flights.He (or she) can get you in the air much more smoothly than trying everything yourself for the first time. Specially this plane is not good for taking off from the ground. It is better have experienced modeller to launch the plane and test the plane for you.
GETTING ORIENTED
The first and most important thing to remember when controlling model aircraft is:the model controls are set up to operate as if you were sitting in the cockpit of the model.This means that when you pull back (down) on the elevator stick the nose of the plane will go up. Moving the rudder stick to the right will “yaw” the plane to the right and moving the aileron stick to the right will “roll” the plane to the
right. Pretty simple right? Well, not quite. Since you are really standing on the ground and not sitting in the plane, this is how the controls work when you are facing the same direction the plane is flying. The problem is that when the plane is flying towards y ou, the rudder and aileron controls seem reversed to the inexperienced pilot. This is the reason we recom­mend that you practice taxing around in a large open area to try and get used to the control reversal.
During your first few flights, tr y to face the direc­tion that the plane is flying and looking over your shoulder as needed. This makes it a little easier to pretend that your sitting in the cockpit.
FIRST FLIGHT
When you are comfortable with the controls, you should be ready for your first flight.Go over the Pre­Flight Check List one more time for good measure. Point the model directly into the wind at full throttle. Launch the plane against the wind by another expe­rienced modeller.As the model starts rolling forward it may try to turn to the left due to the engine torque. Apply enough right rudder to keep the plane rolling relatively straight into the wind.If you built the model with right thrust, this tendency may not be notice­able. As the plane picks up speed, the right r udder input can be reduced.
Once the plane reaches flying speed and height, it will probably try to fly by itself. It is always impor­tant that you do not apply too much up elevator too early or the plane will stall and roll over into the ground.
As the plane becomes airborne, reduce the “up” elevator and allow the plane to pick up flying speed while gently gaining altitude. Once a safe flying speed and altitude has been obtained, feel free to turn the airplane back toward the flying field. Make all control inputs smoothly and gradually so you can see the effect they have on the plane. A small amount of “up” elevator will need to be applied to keep the plane lev el during turns.You should be able to reduce the throttle to about 1/2 throttle for normal cruising flight which will reduce the flying speed and give you more time to think about what is going on. You will find that once airborne, you can fly the plane with only the aileron and elevator sticks. This is per­fectly fine and will make it much easier for you to learn.
If the plane has a tendency to turn, roll, climb, or dive, you can adjust the transmitter trims to correct this. On your first flights, it might be a good idea to
16
POST-FLIGHT CHECK LIST
have an experienced pilot make the adjustments for you while you fly the plane.
If you get disoriented or the plane gets out of con­trol, simply take your hands off all the controls and allow the plane to stabilize. Clear your head and try to picture yourself sitting in the cockpit. Then input the required control movements to get the plane back on the correct flight path. If you run out of time or flying space and realize the plane is going to hit something (ground, tree, etc), pull the throttle back to idle and pull the elevator stick back about half way. This will reduce the speed of the plane and minimize the damage sustained.
When you are ready to land, do a couple of slow fly-bys at a safe altitude to get familiar with the plane’s slow-flying characteristics. An important fac­tor to remember here is that you should regulate your altitude with the throttle not the elevator as you might expect. Practice raising the nose of plane slightly with a touch of “up” elevator and then using the throttle to regulate the plane’s altitude.When you are ready to land, fly downwind past the runway. When the plane is a hundred yards or so downwind, reduce the throttle to almost an idle and turn 90 degrees towards the runway. Fly straight for a sec­ond or two until the plane is almost even with the runway.T urn 90 degrees again and fly directly tow ard the runway using the throttle to govern how quickly the plane is descending. Keep the nose of plane up slightly with the elevator and allow the plane to fly gently onto the runway. Do not try to stretch the glide path without increasing the throttle or the plane may stall.
POST-FLIGHT CHECK LIST
1. Be sure that both the transmitter and
receiver switches are turned off.
2.Drain all excess fuel from the tank.Fuel left
in the tank for extended periods can “gunk up” the tank, fittings and carburetor.
3. Clean the plane with paper towels and a
light-duty spray cleanser. Keeping your plane clean will make it last longer and keep it looking nice.
4.Put a few drops of after-run or light oil in the
carburetor and turn the prop over a few times (without the glow plug ignited) to dis­tribute the oil throughout the engine.
5. Inspect the prop and replace it if any chips
or cracks are found.
6. Inspect the entire plane for covering tears,
new dings and dents, loose screws and connectors and any other wear and tear.
7. Use a voltmeter to check the receiver bat-
tery voltage. If it is low, you now know not to fly so long next time.If it is still high, you should be able to fly a little longer next session.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Wear safety glasses when star ting and run-ning all model engines.
2. Model engine fuel is very flammable and the flame is very dangerous because it is almost invisible! Do not smoke or allow sparks, high heat or other flames near the fuel.
3. Do not run model engines inside a garage or other closed room as they give off large amounts of deadly carbon monoxide gas.
4. Do not run model engines around gravel, sand or other loose debris.These materials will be ingest­ed through the carburetor and can also be kicked up by the prop.
5. Always stay behind the propeller when the engine is running. Make all engine adjust-ments from behind the engine. Under no circumstances should you allow your face or body near the plane on rotation of the propeller when the engine is running.
6. Do not allow loose clothing or other loose objects close to the prop.
7. To stop an engine, cut off the fuel or air supply to the engine.Do not throw rags or other objects into the prop to stop the engine.
8. Do not touch the engine or muffler during or right after it has been running–It gets very hot!
9. If you hear any unusual noises while your plane is flying, land at once and determine the problem before returning to the air. Control surface flutter, which often emits a low-pitched “buzz”, can quickly destroy an airplane and should not be ignored. Flutter is usually caused by sloppy con­trol surfaces and is generally relatively easy to cure.
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