Teledyne Laars Hi-E EPH 300 User Manual

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Hi-E Model EPH Pool and Spa Heater
SECTION 1. General Information
This manual provides maintenance instructions for the
T eledyne Laars Hi-E Model EPH 300 pool and spa heater .
SECTION 2. Overall Operation and Service
2A. Heater Control Components
The following paragraphs describe the special controls and their operation.
2A-1. Pressure Switch
The pressure switch is a safety device that senses water pressure or back pressure between the heater and the pool or spa when the filter pump is operating. The switch is factory set at 2 pounds per square inch (psi) (14 kilopascals [kPa]).
When the switch senses adequate water pressure, it closes, allowing the heater to fire. The switch opens any time water pressure is below 2 psi (14 kPa) and remains opens, preventing the heater from firing, regardless of the temperature control setting. If the water pressure is
too high, the switch remains closed, allowing the heater to fire even if the filter pump is off. Therefore, the height difference between the heater and the pool or spa water surface level must fall within the correct range.
2A-2. High Limit Switches
The Hi-E heater has two disk-type high limit switches to meet ANSI safety requirements. The high limit switches open if the temperature of the water exceeds the respective limits, shutting down the heater. The high limit switches close and automatically reset when exposed to cool water flow for a short time.
The 150 degrees Fahrenheit (°F) (66 degrees Celsius [°C]) high limit switch senses the temperature of the hottest water as it leaves the heat exchanger . The 135°F (57°C) high limit switch senses the tem­perature of the mixed water after it leaves the heater and mixes with water that bypasses the heater inlet to the outlet.
Water can overheat if the water flow rate drops, usually due to a flow restriction in the heat exchanger, pool piping system, or a dirty filter. A broken disc or spring in the automatic flow control valve can cause the 150°F (66°C) high limit switch to open, allowing too much water to bypass the heat exchanger, corre­spondingly lowering the water flow rate through the heat exchanger.
Figure 1. Component Location
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2A-3. Fusible Link
This is a one-time, thermally fusible element which shuts down the heater if it detects temperatures higher than 305°F (152°C) inside the heater control compart­ment.
2A-4. Temperature Control Panel
The temperature control panel includes two temperature controls (regulates pool/spa water tem­peratures) and a touch pad (OFF, SPA, and POOL) that turns the heater on and off and selects which temperature control will be active. An indicator light above the controls tells you which is active. The control panel also has lights labeled, WATER BELOW TEMP, HEAT ON, and FAN ON. These lights indi­cate the operating status of the heater.
2A-5. Venturi Pressure Switch
The venturi pressure switch senses pressure through the venturi. Blockage in venting or the heat exchanger will cause the venturi pressure switch not to close. The venturi pressure switch is pre-set at the factory for normal installations. Do not adjust the venturi pressure switch.
2A-6. Ignition Control
The ignition control provides power to the igniter and fan, opens the gas valve when there is a call for heat, and senses when a flame is established. The ignition control is programmed to make three attempts at ignition. Each attempt consists of the following cycle:
1. A 15-second purge period during which the
combustion fan purges the combustion chamber .
2. A 20 to 35-second igniter heat-up period. The
glow of the igniter can be seen through the heater
view port near the end of this period.
3. A 7-second trial for ignition. The gas valve opens
and gas ignites. The gas valve stays open as long
as the igniter senses flame.
If ignition is not successful, the control shuts down and locks out. It remains in the lockout condition until the heater is turned off then back on by the touch panel pads or when the 120 volt alternating current (VAC) power to the heater is interrupted.
2A-7. Gas Valve
The Hi-E heater has a negative pressure gas valve that regulates the gas to the heater based on the amount of air flow through the venturi. The gas valve is the ON/OFF device that permits gas to flow from the supply line into the heater. It is ener gized by the ignition control.
2A-8. Transformer
The transformer converts 120VAC into 24VAC used by the heater circuit.
2B. Venturi/Negative Pressure Regulator
System
The fuel/air mixing system in the Hi-E EPH 300 heater makes sure the fuel/air ratio remains the same under a wide range of flow conditions (see Fig. 2).
An important feature of the pressure system is that blockage of the combustion air supply or the vent will only reduce the firing rate; it will not cause poor quality combustion.
2C. Pressurized Combustion System
The Hi-E EPH 300 heater has a positive pressure combustion system; the pressure in parts of the system is slightly higher than atmospheric pressure. This has an important effect on service procedures. There can be NO gas leaks in the system from whatever cause. If a leak exists in the section between the combustion fan and the burner, a flammable mixture of fuel gas and air can escape. A leak in the combustion chamber will release very hot gases. These gases may enlarge the leak due to their high temperature. Leakage from the system at points after the heat exchanger will release combustion products or condensate water. The service technician must be alert to these possibilities when servicing the heater.
WARNING
Improper installation or maintenance can
cause nausea or asphyxiation from carbon
monoxide in flue gases which could result in
severe injury, property damage, or death.
2D. Periodic Inspection
Before starting troubleshooting procedures, inspect the pool or spa system for obvious problems. All of the pool system components, including pump,
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Figure 2. Venturi/Negative Pressure Regulator System
Hi-E Model EPH Pool and Spa Heater
filters, and strainers, water valves, gas supply , electri­cal power and time clocks, have an effect on heater operation. The following basic checks should be performed:
1. Is electrical power to the heater turned on?
2. Is there a time clock or other control in the system, and is that control on?
3. Is the heater turned on at the touch panel? If it is, the light over the active temperature control will be lit.
4. Is the temperature control knob set high enough to call for heat?
5. Is the gas supply turned on at all locations?
6. Is the heater’s combustion air filter clean?
7. Are all wiring connections solid?
2E. Temperature Rise Test Procedure
A temperature rise test confirms proper water flow through the heater. Perform a temperature rise test as follows:
1. Verify the heater is OFF. If it is necessary to turn
the heater off, push the OFF button at the touch
pad (see Fig. 3) and wait at least 3 minutes.
2. Turn the filter pump OFF.
3. Remove the 1/4 inch (6.35 millimeters [mm])
National T aper Pipe (NPT) plug located on the
inlet/outlet header (see Fig. 4) and replace it with a
Pete's plug.
4. Insert a pocket thermometer through the Pete's
plug into the header to a depth of about 5 inches
(127 mm).
8. Is the ignition control in lockout mode? Turn the heater off and then back on at the touch panel to restart the ignition sequence.
If all of these items have been checked, look for
Figure 3. Temperature Control
Figure 4. Thermometer Location
5. Make sure the pool filter is clean.
6. Close manual bypass valve, if installed.
7. Turn the filter pump ON and wait 5 minutes.
8. Record the temperature indicated by the thermom­eter (cold water).
9. Turn the heater on following the lighting instruc­tions found under the top panel of the heater.
10. Allow the heater to run for 5 minutes. Record the new temperature reading (hot water).
11. Subtract the first temperature reading (cold water) from the second temperature reading (hot water). The difference between the two readings is called the temperature rise. Proper water flow rate is obtained when the temperature rise falls between 18 and 22°F (10 and 12.2°C).
12. If the temperature rise is within the correct range (see step 11), complete the procedure as follows:
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If the temperature rise is outside the range indi-
cated, two possibilities arise:
1. Case 1: The temperature rise value is less than 18°F (10°C).
2. Case 2: The temperature rise value is greater than 22°F (12.2°C).
2E-1. Temperature Rise Test Case 1
There are two conditions that can produce a
temperature rise value less than 18°F (10°C): The supply gas pressure is too low or the system's water flow is too high.
Use table 1 to verify the heater's gas supply while
the unit is firing and as close as possible to the unit under test.
Low supply gas pressures can be the result of
using the wrong pipe size, meter, valves, or regulators. Correct the problem, then repeat the temperature rise test.
If the temperature rise is still below 18°F (10°C)
after a retest, then the system's water flow may be too high.
If the system filter-flow rate is higher than ap-
proximately 125 gallons per minute (GPM) (474 liters per minute [LPM]), install a manual bypass valve with an adjustable valve (see Fig. 5). Then repeat the temperature rise test, gradually adjusting the flow with the bypass valve (see Section 2D-3) until the proper temperature rise is obtained. Once the adjustment is complete, wire the handle of the manual by-pass to the pipe to prevent any accidental change in the water flow .
2E-2. Temperature Rise Test Case 2
The main reason for a temperature rise value
greater than 22°F (12.2°C) is a low water flow through the heater. Check the installation for the following:
1. Incorrect water pipe size or a combination of different pipe sizes.
a. Turn the heater off.
b. W ait 5 minutes, then turn the filter pump of f.
c. Remove the thermometer and the Pete's plug.
d. Replace the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) NPT plug at
the header.
2. Excessive pipe length for the size pump installed.
3. Pump too small for application.
Table 1. Gas Supply Pressure Requirements
Supply Pressure Natural Gas Propane Gas Water Column in. mm in. m m
Minimum 5 127 11 279 Maximum 10 254 14 356
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Notes:
1. When using metal pipe as heat sink, join metal and PVC/CPVC, using metal male and PVC/CPVC female connection.
2. A manual bypass valve is used only when filtration rate normally exceeds 125 GPM (474 LPM).
Hi-E Model EPH Pool and Spa Heater
Figure 5. Typical Manual Bypass Valve Installation
4. T oo many restrictions in the water path which may include small pumps or 2 speed pumps (low), dirty filters, clogged pipes, or partially closed water valves to the heater.
Verify and correct the condition and then repeat
the temperature rise test.
Caution
Operation with the temperature rise above maximum or below the minimum can damage the heater and will void the warranty.
2E-3. Adjusting the Manual Bypass Valve
After the manual bypass valve is installed, use the
following procedures to set the bypass valve:
1. Close the manual bypass valve completely .
2. Repeat steps 7 through 12 of the temperature rise test (see Section 2E), slowly opening the manual bypass until the temperature falls between 18 and 22°F (10 and 12.2°C).
3. Once the temperature is within the correct range, wire the handle of the manual bypass valve to the pipe to prevent change in the water flow .
SECTION 3. Troubleshooting
3A. Supply Gas and Metering System
If the heater does not supply its rated output (heating too slow), or if a blue lazy flame (too little gas), or a bright flame (too much gas) is noticed, check the supply gas pressure. Proper operation of the fuel/air balancing system depends on the following:
1. Proper supply gas pressure to heater.
2. Correct gas pressure difference across the meter-
ing orifice.
3. Correct orifice for the fuel being used. Figure 3
shows how the system works.
4. V ent pipe length.
3A-1. Checking the Manifold Regulated Gas
Pressure
The Hi-E heater's negative pressure gas valve regulates the gas to the heater based on the amount of air flow through the venturi. Proper operation of the heater depends on the proper settings of the gas flow . Symptoms of improper operation are either a blue lazy flame (too little gas) or a bright yellow flame (too much gas).
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NOTE: Gas supply test, stack test, and air flow filter test should be completed before attempting this test or making any adjustments.
1. Check supply gas pressure (see Section 3B-2).
2. Check that all ports and tubes are clear that connect the gas valve and venturi.
3. Check for proper orifice (see T able 2).
4. Attach a manometer or a 1/2 inch (13 mm) negative pressure gauge between the outlet pres­sure tap on the gas valve and the venturi (lower) inlet pressure tap (see Fig. 6).
Table 2. Gas Metering Orifice Size
Natural Gas LP Gas
Orifice Diameter 0.354 in. 0.295 in.
(8.99 mm) (7.49 mm)
Color Code Brass Silver
5. The pressure at the gas valve outlet will be 0.2 inch (5.08 mm) water column (W .C.) less than the pressure at the venturi (lower) inlet.
6. T ake a reading. The ideal range should be between
-0.1 and -0.3 inches (-2.5 and -7.6 mm) W.C. when the gas valve is energized.
IMPORT ANT: Before the gas valve is energized, the pressure reading will be approximately 2.8 inches (71 mm) W .C. on outdoor units fitted with the standard vent stack. On indoor installations with vent piping as long as 60 feet (18 meters [m]), the pressure can be as low as 2.0 inches (51 mm) W.C.
3A-2. Checking the Supply Gas Pressure
T o check the gas supply pressure:
1. Attach one end of a manometer hose to the fitting on the gas valve (see Fig. 6).
2. Remove threaded cap from T-fitting and replace with fitting from manometer.
Figure 6. Checking the Gas Pressure
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