Graupner Ultramat 14S (premium) or TBS B6AC 80W (budget)
FPV transmitter:
Lawmate 2.4GHz 500mW Video Tx (stock or tuned)
FPV receiver:
Lawmate 2.4GHz Video Rx (stock or tuned) with 11dBi Yagi
FPV pilot camera:
TBS 59 or TBS 69 FPV camera
FPV goggles:
FatShark Dominator video glasses
HD camera:
GoPro HD Hero 3 Black edition
Ground station accessories:
TBS 3S 5000mAh Ground Station Lipo
Camera Tripod to mount your gear (e.g. Cullmann Primax 150)
12
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Camera gimbal assembly
Start by assembling the brushless gimbal. There are a few steps which requires extra attention to detail in
order to get the desired silky smooth operation of the gimbal. These are outlined in the following sections.
Vibration damping system
Start by inserting the damping balls on the mounting plate and frame brackets. This makes it easier to install
the main mounting plate later on.
●The kit includes 35 damping balls of varying elasticity. Play around with different combinations to
find an optimal match which opposes/absorbs the vibrations from the frame. In general it is
recommended to go as hard as possible up to the stage where vibrations/“jello” begin to propagate.
● The harder you go on the front mounting brackets, the softer you can go on the back lever plate.
● A list of suggested combinations are available below.
○ Green - soft silicone (5)
○ Red - medium silicone (10)
○ Orange - hard silicone (10)
○ Yellow - harder silicone (5)
○ Black - extra hard silicone (5)
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●On the main mounting plate, the cable for the motor will exit on the top notch and the plate needs to
be oriented accordingly. Four of the top damping balls will face forward (toward the gimbal) holding
the mounting bracket to the top frame, while the bottom four damping balls will point the opposite
direction (backward) and hold the bottom end of the mounting bracket. This creates the ideal
push-pull compression state where the gimbal rests nicely on the damping balls and allows them to
operate under ideal conditions.
●Start out by using the recommended damping layouts shown below and experiment.
GoPro HD Hero1 and GoPro HD Hero2
Alternative #1
Alternative #2
GoPro HD Hero3 and GoPro HD Hero3+
Alternative #1
Alternative #2
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●Use a short length of a servo-wire or a piece of string to more easily feed the damping balls through
the 16 holes on the base mounting plate and frame mounting brackets. Wrap the wire or string
inside the groove of the balls, one or two turns, feed both ends into the hole, and pull through using
a plier.
●The same applies for the lever arm, only this time it is best to start with lever then work on the plate.
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Gimbal assembly
The gimbal screws use 1.5mm (M2), 2.0mm (M2.5) and 2.5mm (M3) hex screwdrivers. Keep the screws loose
at the start and fully tighten them at the end of the assembly, this makes it easier to align all the parts. For a
good secure fit, use a very small amount of light/medium strength threadlock on all metal-to-metal-screws.
●Begin by putting on the gimbal motors on the gimbal arm and black plate. For the tilt/right motor,
make sure to align the motor cable so it protrudes hidden behind the inner side of the mount. Mount
it with 4x M3x4mm hex screws. For the roll/rear motor, orient the motor so that shaft/cable is
pointing away from the back mounting plate. Here, use 4x M2.5x6mm screws. Take note of the four
adjustable mounting holes on the roll/rear motor, use these to balance the GoPro at the end of the
build.
●Connect the 5-pin Molex connector to the TBS IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) board and feed the
cable through the hole on the top gimbal cage plate. Align it with the two holes and use 2x
M2.5x6mm screws to secure it.
●Attach the left side cage wall, bottom cage floor, and right side cage wall to the top cage plate using
8x M2.5x6mm screws. The axis shaft flange on both walls should face outwards and the notches for
the cable zip-tie should be positioned up. This completes the central gimbal cage assembly.
●Next, put the bearing into the housing the left gimbal arm and use the long M2x12mm screw to
compress the gap until the bearing stays in place - do not overtighten, just clamp the bearing.
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Page 18
Note: Parts with the same number
belong to the same group.
(4)
Gimbal assembly diagram
rev. 01. 2014 - by ivc.no/tbs
(1) M3x4mm motor mount screws
(4) M2.5x5mm frame
screws
(2) M2.5x6mm gimbal screws
(5) M3x6mm lever-to-motor
mount screws
(4) M2x6mm grub screws
(2)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(3) M2x12mm bearing clamp screw
(2)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(2)
Page 19
●To minimize cable tension and friction, feed the 5-pin Molex connector through the bearing and slide
the bearing over the flange on the left side of the gimbal cage (completed previously).
●Align the shrink tube pieces in such a fashion that there is no shrink tube on the inside corner of the
cage or in the bearing channel. Feed the remainder of the 5-pin cable length through the hole on the
left gimbal arm.
●Align and attach the roll/rear motor mounting plate to the left gimbal arm. Pass the 5-pin cable
through the inner “U”-gap. Do the same for the right gimbal arm.
●Use the small 2x M2x6mm grub screws to secure the tilt/right motor shaft to the gimbal cage. This
requires a 0.9mm hex (Allen) key. Align the two notches on the motor shaft with the grub screw
holes. Ensure that both screws are properly tightened, but do not overtighten as the screws could
strip.
●Strap down the cables using 4 zip-ties, use the designated holes around the inner bends of the
gimbal arms and cage. The zip-tie on the cage for the IMU cable needs to be positioned with the
zip-tie head facing backwards to avoid binding/hitting the left gimbal arm.
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●Continue by attaching the main damping mounting plate (completed previously) and back lever arm
to the rear/roll motor. Align the cable with the notch in the mounting plate and secure it using 4x
M3x6mm screws. Feed the remaining cables through the two oval holes on either side of the plate.
Make sure the cables does not obstruct free movement or is under tension. Also check that the cage
can move freely and there is no binding (rubbing) on either side.
●Mount lever arm with the flat surface with the holes pointing down. The lever plate should have the
protruding thread holes also pointing down. This completes the gimbal arm and cage assembly!
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Post frame assembly
●Continue assembling the rest of the DISCOVERY PRO frame and at the end of the build, slide in the
gimbal assembly, plug in the 3 cables for pitch, roll and IMU to the designated location and secure
the gimbal using 6x M2.5x5mm frame (arm) screws. Double check that the right/tilt motor is
connected to the “PITCH” connector and the back/roll motor to “ROLL”. The cables should move
freely.
●Adjust the gimbal so that it is parallel and true to the frame. The arms and motors should
not
be
tilting at an angle, looking from the side. Use the sliding position holes on the bottom plate to make
the final adjustment.
●If the mounting brackets are slipping, add a washer to the screws to keep them in place.
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●If the lever arm touches the flight controller when installed, either move the controller slightly or
remove the spacer and two screws (these are not absolutely necessary).
●Finally, feed the GoPro gimbal velcro strap through the slots on the bottom cage mounting plate.
Properly strapped down the GoPro before flying to reduce vibrations/jello on the footage. Adjust the
balance on both the tilt and roll axis by moving the GoPro back/forth and adjusting the mounting
screws on the motor behind the GoPro, respectively. With no power applied, the gimbal should stay
perfectly still and not lean in either particular direction.
Important: Avoid rotating the gimbal multiple full turns on the tilt-axis. This puts tension on the IMU cable
which in turn introduces counter-forces and interferes with the normal operation of the gimbal.
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Frame assembly
The following sections will show you the essential steps to assembling the base of the frame and connect the
electronics to the frame. In addition to the following assembly instructions, we have produced a both a
summarized “How To” video and a full length “How to” build video showing the assembly and electronics
installation. A full resolution image of the frame assembly is available as an appendix to this manual.
Bottom plate
Power distribution
●Start by pre-tinning (add solder to) the battery pads, speed controller pads, auxiliary power pads (for
flight controller power), speed controller power leads and the battery pigtail. If needed, desolder and
change the XT60 connector to your preferred connector of choice (e.g. Deans, EC5.)
●Cut the the battery pigtail to 14cm and pre-tin the ends. Solder the wires to the positive (red) and
negative (black) pads located on the back-right side on the frame.
●Pick one of the available auxiliary power pads (smaller squares) and solder the flight controller power
unit and/or voltage regulator(s) to the frame. We recommend the pads on the middle-left side.
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8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
FF
(1) M3x6.5mm spacer screws
(3) Pin header
(1)
(2) M2.5x5mm frame arm and gimbal screws
(1)
EE
(7) Aluminium spacers
(2)
(2)
(1)
(6)
(4) Top plate
(1)
(1)
(6)
(2)
(6) Frame arm
DD
(1)
(3)
(1)
CC
(1)
(5) Bottom plate
(1)
(1)
(6)
BB
DRAWN
Parts with the same number
belong to the same type.
AA
8
7
6
5
4
TBS Associates Inc31.07.2013
CHECKED
QA
MFG
APPROVED
3
TITLE
SIZE
A2
SCALE
DWG NO
tbs_disc_pro_frame_assy
2
SHEET
1 OF 1
REV
1
Page 25
Spacers
●Next, add the red spacers (posts) to the bottom frame plate using the supplied M3x6.5mm hex
screws. Add a small drop of threadlock to help secure the frame. It is recommended to only apply on
the bottom screws for easy repairs/maintenance.
●There are three spacer positions in the battery compartment to make it easy to balance (CG) the
frame. The rear spacer position is great for 4S 3300-3700mAh packs, while the most forward position
is great for larger 4S 4000-4500mAh packs (shown in the image below.)
Speed controllers
●Position the ESC with the label facing up. Solder the positive and negative leads on the speed
controllers to the corresponding square pads on the bottom frame. The pads are located next to the
two frame arm screw holes. Heat the solder pad, hold the cable in a slight angle (so both cables will
form a “V”), remove the solder iron and keep still until the solder has had time to cool down and
settle nicely.
●Calibrate the throttle range for each ESC individually (except for DJI and TBS BULLETPROOF ESCs) by
connecting the ESC directly to the throttle channel on the receiver and setting the throttle stick high
(Wide Open Throttle - WOT) on power-on and then low until a confirmation beep is heard (motors
attached). The ESC has to be connected directly to the R/C receiver for this procedure to work. TBS is
offering a handy calibration cable for this purpose. If you are using EzUHF, set WOT as failsafe to
avoid start-up timing issues. After calibration, re-program your correct failsafe throttle position.
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●One important note for ESCs that do not carry the “OPTO” label or are not TBS BULLETPROOF
designs, is that only one of the four ESCs should provide 5V BEC power to the flight controller. The
middle red wire on the end connector should be disconnected on three of the ESCs. If the flight
controller is providing power (e.g. NAZA-M PMU/V-SEN-unit), all ESC BECs should be disconnected.
The reason for this is to avoid voltage oscillations caused by erroneous voltage-regulator feedback.
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Flight controller
●Decide whether you want to use traditional PWM or PPM/S.BUS control signal mode. The frame is
laid out to work with both types of setups. As of writing, TBS suggests the DJI NAZA-M flight controller
in PPM/S.BUS mode (together with a compatible receiver) and an optional GPS add-on (for
return-to-home capability) for a clean wiring layout and great out-of-the-box experience.
●Plug in all the R/C and ESC servo-cables to the flight controller according to the flight controller
instructions. Mount the unit on the bottom plate in the centre of the white rectangle. Use a
self-adhesive foam pad (normally included) to mount the controller. Be sure to double check the
orientation of the flight controller for proper operation.
●When using PPM/S.BUS, there is a handy easy-to-reach PPM header output located on the bottom
frame. Also be sure the radio and receiver is properly mapping the channels in the PPM stream.
●For setup and tuning parameters of the flight controller, refer to the manufacturer manual or guides
on fpvlab.com. See the table below for initial TBS recommended NAZA-M gains.
●(DJI NAZA only) Open NAZA Assistant and disable the “Voltage Monitor Protection”. This prevents the
DISCOVERY PRO from prematurely descending on low battery. Use the CORE OSD to watch the
battery condition instead. Never let the voltage go past 3.5V x cell count (i.e. 3S 10.5V, 4S 14.0V) or
deplete the battery past 20% (e.g. max. 3600mA discharged on a 4500mAh battery pack.)
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Page 28
●(DJI NAZA only) To save weight and space, the PMU (V2) can be disconnected and removed after the
final configuration has been made. Although, 5V power still has to be provided from at least one of
the ESCs.
Start out using the following suggested gains for NAZA-M Autopilot and
tune accordingly
.
Setup
Gain
Pitch
Roll
Yaw
Vertical
TBS 900kV2 9x5 4S4500mAh 30A
Basic/manual
135%
129%
133%
176%
NAZAMLite
Attitude
130%
130%
TBS 900kV2 9x5 4S4500mAh 30A
Basic/manual
130%
100%
120%
120%
NAZAMV2
Attitude
150%
150%
Other drivetrains (general starting point)
Basic/manual
130%
120%
110%
130%
NAZAMV1/V2/Lite
Attitude
130%
130%
Note: The pitch axis gain will in most cases be greater than the roll axis gain because of the inherent
asymmetric design and weight distribution on the frame.
Frame arms
●Install the frame arms on the four designated locations using the long-neck M2.5x5mm screws. Feed
the speed controller wires through the gap between the frame arm and bottom plate.
●With the speed controllers soldered (completed previously) and frame arms mounted, use the
zip-ties to mount the speed controllers to the underside of the arms. Avoid putting tension or stress
on the motor- or speed controller-cables. Use a self-adhesive pad to mount any BEC or control unit
(e.g. NAZA PMU/LED/V-SEN-unit.) to the underside of the back-left speed controller.
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Page 29
●Feed the battery straps through the two slots in the battery compartment. Only one strap is really
necessary to provide adequate friction to keep the battery fastened.
Optional: Use different colored frame arms for the front and back pair to make it easier to identify the
orientation of the quadcopter in the air.
Motors
●Mount the brushless motors to the frame arms using the supplied M3x6.5mm hex screws. There is
no need to add an X-mount to the motors. Apply a small drop of medium threadlock to a secure the
base. Feed the motor wires through the frame arm comb-pattern to minimize clutter.
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●Plug in the bullet-connectors to the speed controllers. Swap any two wires to change the direction of
rotation if they do not rotate as shown below. See the image above for the most commonly used
motor setup (e.g. NAZA-M.)
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Top plate
R/C control signal headers
●To get a clean R/C receiver-to-flight controller wiring, it is recommended to use the header on the top
plate. There are 8 traces to support up to equally many PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) channels.
When using a PPM (Pulse Position Modulation) compatible receiver and flight controller, only one
trace (Channel 1) is used.
●Solder the supplied pin header to the 8x3-pads and the single 1x3-header to the separate RSSI pad.
Install the first header on the R/C receiver side (back-end) with the pins pointing up and, if you are
using PWM control signals, solder the second header with the pins pointing down (towards the
bottom plate/flight controller.) Use tape to keep the header in place while applying a reasonable
amount of solder to all of the pins while applying heat. The flux in the solder will make the solder
flow around the pins.
●The layout of the header is as follows:
○ channel 1 for PPM stream or channel 1 to 4 for PWM aileron/elevator/throttle/yaw control
○ channel 5 for PWM gimbal horizontal roll control (rarely needing adjustments)
Note: Connecting a video transmitter directly to a shared battery source
may induce interference on the video image. Consider adding a lter
between the solder pad and video transmitter.
!
5V 12V
Battery voltage
--
+
* On 4S+ setups where 12V is not available, consider using a dedicated
TBS CORE PNP to supply power to the video transmitter.
VTX
Pwr
Gnd
Video
Audio
Page 43
Brushless gimbal controller
●Plug in the 3 Molex cables for the pitch- and roll-motors, as well as the IMU board, into the
connectors labeled “PITCH”, “ROLL”, and “IMU” located near the front on the top plate.
●The controller comes pre-configured with PID gains which are fine-tuned for use with a GoPro HD
Hero3 and no additional accessories (lens protection or housing.) Tuning may be necessary (PID,
power) when using an older GoPro model or different add-ons. Also make sure to balance both axis
by moving the GoPro back or forth until it stays still independent of how you rotate/leave it.
●Additional configuration can be done using the SimpleBGC software package via the micro USB
connector on the right-side of the top frame. The CORE uses dual profile switching (described later in
the manual) which means that all essential flight tuning should be done in both profiles.
●The gimbal controller has two dedicated channels (RC_PITCH, RC_ROLL) brought out on the top plate
R/C header (channel 5 and 6) which can be used to position the GoPro image. This means that you
can assign a knob or slider on the radio to control pitch and roll of the gimbal.
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●If the camera gimbal is not level at start-up, move the gimbal and quad to a perfectly level position
(use a bubble leveler) and press the “GIMBAL CAL.” button on the top plate for 3-5 seconds until the
gimbal motors release. Wait for the blue LED to stop blinking and motors to lock again. Ensure that
the gimbal is perfectly still and straight during this calibration process.
●If the gimbal still drifts, recalibrate the sensors by turning any UHF or video transmitters, plugging in
power, connecting the frame to SimpleBGC, then propping up the gimbal so it stays level and still.
Then click “CALIB. ACC”, wait for it to finish, click “WRITE”, and then click “CALIB. GYRO” and “WRITE”.
●To further fine-tune the accelerometer, perform the 4 position calibration by setting both POWER to
0 and clicking “CALIB. ACC” after each time you position the gimbal
face forward
,
face down
,
face up
and
face backwards
. And only at the very end re-enable the POWER settings and commit the
calibration data by clicking “WRITE”. See the SimpleBGC manual for further details.
●Gyro calibration is very sensitive. If you are in a skyscraper, considering going to the ground floor for
this calibration. Do not use unstable surfaces, such as lightweight tables or wooden floors for
calibration. You only need to do this once in a while or when moving to an entirely new geographical
location. The calibration directly influences how well the gimbal performs.
●The gimbal controller is PPM compatible (no S.BUS support) and the channel 1 trace on the top plate
is integrated directly to the controller chip. To enable PPM gimbal, you need to close the solder pads
labeled “PPM GIMBAL” on the top plate, enable “PPM-Sum” and assign the right channels via the
SimpleBCG software. Remember to remove any servo-cables between the receiver and the header
channel 5 and 6, as any PWM signal would cause conflict.
●Note that in PPM mode, the CORE can not switch profiles because it relies on the gimbal controller to
be PWM configured. We suggest that you use a channel on your radio to switch profiles.
Camera switcher
●Switching video downlink feed is now possible via a dedicated R/C channel on the radio, e.g., a
2-position toggle switch. Connect a servo-cable from the receiver to the R/C header (channel 8). The
video switcher will change input when the PWM-period passes the 1520µs center point (50%). No
further sub-trim should be necessary. The failsafe setting depends on your receiver configuration.
●To enable the camera switcher functionality (off by default), press the “ENTR” button on the top plate
for 4-5 seconds and toggle to the “CAMERA TYPE" menu and select "SWITCH".
●When using PPM for R/C and/or gimbal control, the camera switching still has to be hooked up to
PWM. Fortunately, most receivers still output PWM on the remaining receiver pins when in PPM
mode. It only requires one additional servo-cable to CAM_SWITCH (ch8) to enable switching.
●Set the GoPro recording mode to match your FPV camera; 25p/50p equals PAL, 30p/60p equals NTSC.
This allows for faster transitions and no garbled screen because the viewing device (display, goggles)
does not need to switch video format.
●The GoPro jumper selector called “GP OUT SEL” is by default set to camera switcher and no further
soldering is necessary. For more information, refer to dual-pilot support later (advanced.)
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GoPro link
●With video switching now possible on the DISCOVERY PRO, the kit includes a small adaptor which
plugs into the GoPro 30-pin bus connector to provide video output and the possibility to charge the
GoPro while in flight. The charging is disabled by default and it is only recommended to enable the
“500mA/1A” solder bridge if you are certain the CORE will not be overloaded.
●After assembling the camera gimbal frame, plug in the 3-pin molex connector from the GoPro
adaptor to the gimbal IMU board. The IMU board just passes the video signal straight through to the
CORE/video switcher input, in an uncluttered fashion.
●(Advanced users only) There is even a component you can add on the board to be able to change the
charging rate from 1A to 0.5A continuous. To reduce the charging rate, order the IC part
NCP380HSN05AAT1G from Mouser or Digi-Key and solder the IC to the unoccupied pads on the
adaptor board (adequate soldering skills needed.)
OSD (On Screen Display)
●You can use the integrated OSD to get live readout on screen about the battery voltage (V), current
draw (A), total current consumption (mAh), receiver signal strength (%) and flight time
(minutes:seconds). This gives an essential overview of the system vitals while in flight.
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●The OSD is enabled by default, to disable it completely hook up video and press the “ENTR” button on
the top plate for 4-5 seconds, toggle to the “OSD" menu and select "OSD OFF".
●In the picture above the video feed is switched to the GoPro camera. Notice how the OSD adapts to
the GoPro margins. The EzUHF RSSI Link was used here, allowing additional details to be displayed
(diversity signal strength, link quality, packet loss.)
●As a side note, as soon as the RSSI figures get towards -90 or the link quality drops below 80%, it is a
good time to turn around (whichever comes first.)
●To read the R/C receiver signal strength (RSSI), connect a servo-cable between the receiver and the
designated RSSI_ANALOG header on the top plate. All major FPV R/C system vendors support either
analog or digital (PWM) RSSI output. For EzUHF owners, the CORE also supports “OSD Link”. Enter the
CORE menu to select the right RSSI type for your receiver and calibrate the max. (radio on) and min.
(radio off) value.
●The bottom plate includes an on-board current sensor in-line with the battery supply. Configure the
CORE to use the 50A current sensor. The sensor can also be tuned (in % increments) to more
accurately display current consumption (mAh), i.e. at the end of a flight if it was 1% too high, adjust it
down 1%. The same kind of adjustments can be made for the battery voltage (in 0.1V increments.)
The current sensor output is compatible with similar OSD systems. (Advanced users only) Limited
instructions on how to install the TBS CORE PRO on the PRO can be found later in this manual.
●Coupling current sensor and RSSI input directly on-board makes for a clutter-free OSD setup and
clean build. A full menu layout of the CORE is available as an appendix to the manual.
●Lastly, when all the R/C and FPV gear is installed connect the 9-pin top-bottom link cable and close
the frame. Use the remaining spacer and frame arm screws to secure the frame.
Note: Digital RSSI and Camera switch share the source pin with each other. If you use the Camera switch
you can only use analog RSSI or the link input from EzUHF receiver.
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Brushless gimbal stabilization
Integrated gimbal controller
Setting up a gimbal the right way can be a daunting task, fortunately we licensed the SimpleBGC firmware
(AlexMos) and the SimpleBGC hardware layout from Viacopter. The controller has all the parameters pre-set
and gains tuned by TBS for a great out-of-the-box experience.
The gimbal controller is fully embedded into the frame
(a world's first), no soldering or software configuration
required. Just plug in the motors and IMU, and you are
good to go. The on-board USB port connects to your PC
for future firmware upgrades and custom configuration.
If you want to apply updates and make adjustments to
the gimbal, download the SimpleBGC and SiLabs CP210x
driver package (www.basecamelectronics.com), plug in
battery power, and connect the DISCOVERY PRO to a
Windows computer via a micro USB cable (e.g., from the
NAZA-M or a mobile phone.) Extensive details of the
brushless controller is available in the SimpleBGC
manual.
DISCOVERY PRO utilizes two profiles, one silent profile (Profile 1), to keep the gimbal quiet while on ground
and one noisy profile (Profile 2). The CORE MCU will detect when main motor starts (current consumption
>3A) and switch from the silent to noisy profile automatically. If you change something in SimpleBGC you
have to do the change on both profiles. If you want to change your in-flight values you have to do this on
Profile 2.
The following table shows the suggested PID and power controller gains for a GoPro HD Hero3&3+ mounted
on the gimbal. Download the factory settings from bit.ly/tbsprosettings.
Axis
P I D
Power
Poles
Inverted
FC Gain
Roll
12
0.1 9 175
14
Yes
0
Pitch
14
0.1 9 173
14
No
0
Other essential settings: Axis TOP to -Z, RIGHT to Y, skip gyro calibration at startup CHECK, gyro trust 100,
and PWM frequency to HIGH (silent) for Profile 1 and LOW for Profile 2, ROLL to RC_ROLL, PITCH to RC_PITCH,
CMD to EXT_ROLL, RC control ROLL to -30/30/CHECK/3/UNCHECK/10/0% and PITCH to
-90/90/CHECK/3/UNCHECK/10/0%.
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HD camera
The GoPro HD Hero camera is the most commonly used HD recording camera (as of writing) for sport
purposes, thanks to its wonderful high-quality picture and compact size. The TBS DISCOVERY PRO was
designed around the GoPro to take advantage of its great features.
Consider using the GoPro settings in the tables below for “no-prop-in-view” footage. Adding a ND filter to the
front of the GoPro will also help slowing down the shutter speed and reduce “jello”.
GoPro HD Hero1:
Video format:
NTSC (or PAL to match pilot camera)
to get 30fps
Video resolution:
1080p 30fps (medium angle)
for 10x5-inch props
720p 30fps (wide angle)
for 9x5-inch props
GoPro HD Hero2:
Video format:
NTSC (or PAL to match pilot camera)
to get 30fps
Video resolution:
1080p 30fps
high quality video
Video angle:
Medium (127 degrees)
for 10x5-inch props
Wide (170 degrees)
for 9x5-inch props
GoPro HD Hero3/3+:
Video format:
NTSC (or PAL to match pilot camera)
to get 30/60fps
Video resolution:
1080p 60fps (or 30fps)
less chance of “jello”
Video angle:
Medium (127 degrees)
for 10x5-inch props
Wide (170 degrees)
for 9x5-inch props
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Center of Gravity optimization
●A properly balanced multirotor will distributing the weight (mass) equally over the four motors. The
mark on the bottom plate is the Center of Thrust (CT, CoT) mark and the Center of Gravity (CG, CoG)
spot is 15mm forward of this mark. When holding the frame in the air at the CG spot it should ideally
be level and not dip to either side.
●After completing the build and loading up the frame, adjust the CG over the lateral (pitch) axis by
primarily moving the battery pack forward or backward. You might need to move the middle two
frame spacers to accommodate the battery. The CG over the longitudinal (roll) axis should be in the
center of the frame front-to-back and should only need slight adjustments.
●When the frame is out of balance some motors are going to have to work harder than others and you
will have less authority in a given axis due to the fact that one or more motors are already working
more than normally required. Small balance variations are countered very well by the flight
controller and should not cause any problems.
●If the quadcopter is too nose heavy it will bob up and down in forward flight and if it is too tail heavy
it will get very twitchy and hard to fly.
●As a side note, the flight controller does not need to be over the CG spot. It should be mounted in the
center of the white rectangular lines on bottom plate.
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Median
Center of Gravity diagram
rev. 08. 2013 - by ivc.no/tbs
Center of Gravity
Center of Thrust
Median
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Dual-pilot support (ADVANCED USERS ONLY!)
Split dual-pilot support is possible in situations where a separate operator for piloting the quad and camera
is preferred. Extra equipment is needed for the extra video link and R/C control uplink (2-axis gimbal and yaw
adjustments.) Installation of the video transmitter and R/C receiver follows the same basic setup principles
described previously.
Connect the second video transmitter to location labeled VTX2 (GND, VBatt!!, Video.) The GoPro output
selector jumper works like this; the middle and right pads are connected by default from the factory,
transferring the Gopro image to the camera switcher. To use a second transmitter, cut the trace in between
the two pads. This can be done with a sharp knife. Use a multimeter to verify that the two pads are entirely
separated. Now connect the left and middle pad with a dab of solder, this diverts the GoPro image to the
Video pad.
●Single operator - For reference, the following diagram shows the normal “all-in-one” setup where
one operator maneuvers quad and controls video positioning.
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●Dual operator - Introducing a separate video operator for the gimbal roll and tilt control requires
one additional video transmitter and R/C receiver. Disable the video switcher, cut the trace between
the two “GP OUT SEL” jumper pads and solder the left pad to the middle.
●Dual operator with yaw authority - To give the video operator the ultimate freedom over framing
and picture positioning, swap the responsibility for yaw control over to the the video operator. This
requires good piloting skills and continuous communications back and forth to practice safe
maneuvering and flight.
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TBS CORE PNP PRO installation
The TBS CORE PNP PRO upgrade will make the DISCO PRO a full-featured quadcopter. You will be able to see
current power index, home direction, speed, altitude, distance to home, exact GPS coordinates and
notifications to assist you while flying. See the official CORE PRO manual for further details and setup,
available at team-blacksheep.com/tbs-core-pro-manual.pdf.
A full resolution diagram of the following procedure is available on the next page.
●By following these instructions you will end up with a dual CORE & CORE PRO setup where the video
out from the on-board CORE (with video switching) will feed into the CORE PRO, where the OSD
overlay will be applied. The on-board CORE can now be used to charge the GoPro HD camera at 1A, if
desired.
●The on-board CORE automatic gimbal profile switching (at >3A) will function as normal and no
change is necessary.
●First, enter the CORE menu via the buttons on the top plate and set CAM TYPE to SWITCH and OSD to
OSD OFF - to enable pilot<->GoPro camera switching and avoiding overlapping OSDs.
●Connect the GoPro and pilot camera as normal to the top plate (IMU/GoPro and CAM). Disconnect
the video transmitter (VTX) from the VTX port on the top plate.
●Then, you need to connect the video out from the VTX port on the DISCO PRO to the CAM port on the
CORE PRO. Connect the video transmitter (VTx) to the VTX port on the CORE PRO.
●
Note:
If the VTx is high power and has an on-board regulator, connect the power leads (normally red
and black) to the unregulated power pads on the bottom plate (+/- pads) on the DISCO PRO. The
video signal (normally yellow wire) should be connected separately to the VTX port on the CORE PRO.
●For the CORE PRO current sensor, you need to connect the PWR OUT to the battery lead on the
DISCO PRO. Connect the current sensor to the CORE PRO unit with one of the short BST-cables. The
battery now connects to the PWR IN on the current sensor.
●(Optional) To establish a connection between the EzUHF (available separately) and CORE PRO, use
one of the longer BST-cables and connect it between the OSD Link port on the EzUHF and LINK port
on the CORE PRO. This replaces the short black EzUHF OSD Link cable which normally connects to the
rear connector on the top plate.
●Lastly, connect the GPS module (available separately) to one of the BST ports on the CORE PRO.
Mount the GPS module on the rear section on the DISCO PRO.
●Now, with the rewiring done, power up the DISCO PRO and your goggles. Enter the CORE PRO menu
and make sure the current sensor is set to 100A, RSSI set to LINK (EzUHF) or ANALOG/DIGITAL and
calibrate the compass (if used).
●The setup is now complete. See CORE PRO manual for further configuration options.
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Flight
First flight
Check that the flight battery and transmitter battery is fully charged. Make sure all the screws on the frame
and the propellers are spinning the correct direction and secured, and that the battery strapped down.
Balance the quadcopter around the Center of Gravity (CG) spot by repositioning the battery. Make sure the
gimbal is positioned perfectly level and flat against the frame. It has to be calibrated at least once to get good
level reference.
Find an wide open location free from obstacles, dust and distractions (e.g., garden or park.) The flight
conditions should be calm with only a light breeze. Flip the flight mode switch to “Attitude” mode and execute
the stick combination to arm the flight controller (e.g., for NAZA left stick to bottom-left and right stick to
bottom-right.) Slowly raise the throttle stick and when the propellers start to spin, make sure they rotate in
the right direction and the propeller type is correct (right-hand or left-hand turn.)
Takeoff
With all the essentials checked, stand behind the quadcopter with the gimbal facing away from you. Raise the
throttle to about 50% where the quadcopter should start to lift-off and hover. Control the hover by primarily
using the aileron and elevator sticks. Remember, only small stick movements. If the stick works in the
opposite direction than expected, invert the channel and watch the flight controller monitor to confirm.
Let go of the sticks and observe if it drifts in either direction. Compensate by adding 2 or 3 clicks of trim on
the radio in the opposite direction (only in Attitude mode). If the quadcopter still drifts, land, put the frame
on a level surface, balance the frame and cycle the power to the flight controller to re-initialize the gyro
calibration. Perform at least 5 flights in low altitude and easy pace to allow any hardware defects to manifest
itself.
FPV
After the quadcopter has been tweaked to stay still in a hover and fly true, turn on the FPV equipment and do
a range test to verify that the video link is reliable. Visual inspect the area to pick out noteworthy landmarks
and use these to orient yourself once your are in the air. Get a friend or assistant to be your spotter during
the entire session.
While still flying line of sight (LOS), takeoff and hover the quadcopter as normal, attain reasonable altitude,
and with the video goggles ready on your head, put them on (or turn to the display) to engage in FPV flight. If
the picture gradually weakens (noise blends in) or video suddenly drops, increase altitude and return to
home, as this normally indicates that you fly at the edge of the video range or behind obstacles, respectively.
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Good practices
We have compiled a list of all of the things that have been tried and tested in countless environments and
situations by TBS crew and other experienced FPV pilots.
Follow these simple rules, even if rumors on the internet suggest otherwise, and you will have success in FPV.
●Start with the bare essentials and add equipment one step at a time, after each new equipment was
added to proper range- and stress tests.
●Do not fly with a video system that is capable of outperforming your R/C system in terms of range.
●Do not fly with a R/C frequency higher than the video frequency (e.g. 2.4GHz R/C, 900MHz video).
●Monitor the vitals of your plane (R/C link and battery). Flying with a digital R/C link without RSSI is
dangerous.
●Do not use 2.4GHz R/C unless you fly well within its range limits, in noise-free environments and
always within LOS. Since this is most likely never the case, it is recommended to not use 2.4GHz R/C
systems for longer range FPV.
●Do not fly at the limits of video, if you see noise in your picture, turn around and buy a higher-gain
receiver antenna before going out further.
●Shielded wires or twisted cables only, anything else picks up RF noise and can cause problems.
●When using powerful R/C transmitters, make sure your ground station equipment is properly
shielded.
●Adding Return-To-Home (RTH) to an unreliable system does not increase the chances of getting your
plane back. Work on making your system reliable without RTH first, then add RTH as an additional
safety measure if you must.
●Avoid powering the VTx directly from battery, step-up or step-down the voltage and provide a
constant level of power to your VTx. Make sure your VTx runs until your battery dies.
●Do not power your camera directly unless it works along the complete voltage range of your battery.
Step-up or step-down the voltage and provide a constant level of power to your camera. Make sure
your camera runs until your battery dies.
●A single battery system is safer than using two dedicated batteries for R/C and FPV. Two batteries in
parallel even further mitigate sources of failure.
●For maximum video range and “law compatibility”, use 2.4GHz video with high-gain antennas.
●When flying with R/C buddies that fly on 2.4GHz, or when flying in cities, it is perfectly possible to use
2.4GHz video provided you stick to the channels that do not lie in their band (CH5 to CH8 for
Lawmate systems, available from TBS).
●Do not use diversity video receivers as a replacement for pointing your antennas, diversity should be
used to mitigate polarization issues.
●Improving the antenna gain on the receiver end is better than increasing the output power (except in
RF-noisy areas). More tx power causes more issues with RF on your plane. 500mW is plenty of power!
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●Try to achieve as much separation of the VTx and R/C receiver as possible to lower the RF noise floor
and EMI interference.
●Do not buy the cheapest equipment unless it is proven to work reliably (e.g. parts falling off,
multitudes of bug fix firmware updates, community hacks and mods are a good indicator of poor
quality and something you do NOT want to buy for a safe system). Do due diligence and some
research before sending your aircraft skyward.
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Troubleshooting
●Issue: Horizontal lines in pilot video downlink
Solution: If there are lines in the video during flight that disappear as soon as you land, your video
transmitter is exposed to too much vibrations. Memory foam in conjunction with the Flame Wheel
VTx mount will take out the vibrations in an instant and give you crystal-clear video.
●Issue: Motor(s) doesn’t start
Solution: It is probably a lazy start syndrome, some information on that is available here:
bit.ly/15wNLk4. You should calibrate your ESC throttle endpoints, details on how to perform this:
bit.ly/110deyX. We have a calibration cable available which speeds up the process. Please remember
to remove the props before doing that.
●Issue: Can the TBS EzOSD be installed on the DISCOVERY PRO?
Solution: It requires taking the VTx output and feeding it to the EzOSD and removing the shunt
resistor. For instructions, look at this post: bit.ly/1a2r6xg.
●Issue: Can the GoPro camera be charged from the frame?
Solution: If you don't use the internal power supply from the TBS CORE for your VTx (e.g. a VTx with
an included power supply) there is enough 5V power available to charge the GoPro. In this case TBS
has conveniently located a soldering pad to activate the charging feature.
●Issue: After switching video from GoPro to pilot camera, video is rolling and desynced
Solution: Set the GoPro recording mode to match your FPV camera. 25p if you are using PAL, 30p if
you are using NTSC. This allows faster transitions between the two cameras because the viewing
device does not need to switch between PAL and NTSC.
●Issue: I can't connect to the Gimbal using the SimpleBGC software
Solution: Ensure that the SiLabs CP210x drivers are installed, download them from bit.ly/bi3or4.
●Issue: The gimbal motor does not feel securely tightened or spins freely without any
movement on the gimbal (tilt axis)
Solution: Pull off the bell and roughen the motor shaft with a low grit sand paper or a file to cause a
rough surface. Add a drop of Loctite or CA glue to the shaft and slide the motor bell back on. Let the
glue dry.
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●Issue: Gimbal controller displays a blue light and motors not engaging
Solution: Try to connect your PRO to the SimpleBGC UI software and check what message you get
there. There is possibly a bad connection between the top plate and the gimbal IMU. Check the
connection by verifying the voltage at the IMU when everything is plugged in:
●Issue: The gimbal drifts or doesn't center properly
Solution: Install the SimpleBGC Software (www.basecamelectronics.com), level the gimbal on a heavy
and sturdy table and fix it using a thin book or similar. Turn off any UHF transmitters and disconnect
any video transmission devices. Ensure there are no vibrations on the table. Remove the camera and
strap from the Gimbal, as it simplifies levelling the gimbal. Connect the battery. The gimbal will try to
"fight" - do not worry about this it will not overheat the motors unless being kept running for
extended periods of time. Connect the micro USB to the top plate, and select "Connect" in the
software. Now select "Acc. Calibration" and wait for the motors to regain power. Then select "Gyro
calibration". If these steps have been done correctly, the gimbal will now lock dead center. You can
remove whatever you used to support the Gimbal and it will hold its position.
●Issue: The gimbal stutters or moves in jerky motion
Solution 1: Has the USB port been plugged in while the battery was disconnected? Unplug the USB,
then plug in the battery, and subsequently connect the USB plug again.
Solution 2: The IMU may be under tension, which prevents the gimbal from rotating freely. Loosen
the zip-ties of the IMU cable and give them some “play”, especially around the ball-bearing area.
●Issue: Video signal resets every few seconds
Solution: Too much current is being drawn from the CORE causing it to go into shutdown mode. The
video transmitter should be powered from a separate power source. Use a 5V or 12V BEC and
connect it to the + and - pads on the bottom plate.
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Recommended parts
Below is a list of compatible R/C and FPV gear for the TBS DISCOVERY PRO quadrotor. This will hopefully
make it easier to pick up spare parts and upgrades.
Power sets
TBS 900kV2 Motor / ESC Combo
For the more sophisticated, agile-flight loving pilot or for
those requiring super-vibration-resistant and high quality
motors.
●4x TBS BULLETPROOF 30A ESC (flashed with
SimonK Firmware)
●4x TBS 900kV2 Motor with M5 prop mount hubs
Individual parts
Motors
●TBS 900KV2 or Tiger Motors MT2216-10/11 900KV brushless motor (5mm shaft)