A. Load Bearing and Bracing
B. Roof Piping and Penetrations
C. Roof Mount Penetrations
D. South/North Roof Mounts
E. East/West Roof Mounts
F. Tile Roof Installations
Please read and understand Installation and Operations Manual and safety
messages before installing, operating or servicing this solar water heater. Failure
to follow instructions and safety messages could result in death or serious injury.
2
FLOW PATTERN
The PROGRESSIVTUBE® solar water heater works simply on sunlight and your local water
pressure. There is no electrical energy needed to make it function. Once the system
has been filled, it will operate on main water pressure or flow rates that are normal to
your household. The simple design and quality construction of the solar collector will
provide you with years of energy saving, trouble free operation.
COLD IN
COLD OUT
INSULATED PIPE
HOT OUT
The solar energy systems described by this manual, when properly installed and maintained, meet the minimum
standards established by the Florida Solar Energy Center, in accordance with Section 377.705, Florida Statutes.
This certification does not imply endorsement or warranty of the product by the Florida solar Energy Center of the
State of Florida.
HOT OUT
3
PROGRESSIVTUBE
INSTALLATION MANUAL
I. INTRODUCTION
This installation manual is intended to provide the requirements, recommendations, and
guidelines necessary to achieve simplified installation and years of trouble free system
operation. There are many ways to plumb a P
included in this manual are endorsed by the manufacturer. The pre-heater system designs in
this manual meet the Florida Solar Energy Center’s (FSEC) Approved Systems review and
certification program, and/or the Solar Ratings and Certification Corporation’s (SRCC) Certified
Solar Collector and Water heating System Rating and Standards program. P
models: PT30, PT40 and PT50 have an approved listing by the International Association of
Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO).
The FSEC Approved Systems are called “two-way systems” and the proper plumbing schematic
should be followed depending upon whether a conventional gas, electric or instantaneous water
heater is used for back up. A “two-way” system can function in one of two ways; either as a
solar pre-heater to the conventional gas, electric, water heater or as a conventional water heater
only with the P
The SRCC certified OG 300 system is a “three-way” system designed for use with either a
gas or electric conventional water heater. A “three-way” system can function in any of the three
following modes: solar pre-heat, solar by-pass, or solar direct. The solar direct mode feeds
solar heated water directly to the household from the P
conventional water heater to be by-passed and turned off. This mode allows homeowners to
maximize their savings during peak solar collecting months, usually spring through fall. To meet
all requirements of the SRCC OG 300 system, please refer to the SRCC section in the
Appendix.
Note: In the case of the installation of the
the installer should follow the instantaneous water heater manufacturer’s installation instructions
The procedures in this manual are for all P
models. The only difference in the four available models is the amount of water each one holds:
PT-20-CN, 20 gallons, PT-30-CN, 30 gallons, PT-40-CN, 40 gallons, PT-45-CN, 45 gallons and
PT-50-CN, 50 gallons. All models have a 25-year design life.
ROGRESSIVTUBE
collector by-passed.
ROGRESSIVTUBE
PROGRESSIVTUBE® with an instantaneous water heater,
ROGRESSIVTUBE
system, but only the methods
ROGRESSIVTUBE
ROGRESSIVTUBE
Passive Solar Water Heater
unit allowing the
4
II. UTILIZATION
ROGRESSIVTUBE
P
as a solar collector and storage tank integrated into one piece of equipment. In most cases,
they are utilized as a pre-heater to a conventional water heater; however, they can be installed
as direct solar water heaters. The unit can also be used as a pre-heater for a terminal or
instantaneous water heater. If a P
instantaneous water heater the procedures and plumbing schematics for either the two-way or
three-way system should be followed. Make certain the instantaneous tankless water heater
has a temperature limiting device. Many electric models do not include this safety device and
should be avoided.
P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
water heating systems, the total amount of solar contribution by the system is dependent upon
the hot water consumption pattern of the household, daily weather conditions, and variable
amounts of available sunlight throughout the year. Energy savings will vary from month to
month, but it is possible to maximize these savings by scheduling large hot water usage, such
as clothes and dishwashing, for the early afternoon.
The simple design and quality construction of P
life of twenty-five years or more. This manual details the essential operation of the system and
is intended to illustrate proper installation techniques. To ensure trouble free operation, all
installation work should be performed by qualified licensed contractors and in accordance with
all local codes.
Passive Solar Water Heaters are designed as self-contained units that act
ROGRESSIVTUBE
systems are designed to operate automatically. However, as with all solar
ROGRESSIVTUBE
unit is installed to a terminal or
will ensure a reliable service
III. SYSTEM CHARACTERISTICS
ROGRESSIVTUBE
All P
radiation and to convert it into usable energy for household or business hot water usage. Do not
use P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
The P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
operates on local water pressure and solar radiation. There are no pumps or controls to
maintain and no electrical energy is required to make it function. Once the system has been
filled, it will operate at the flow rates that are normal to the household.
The collector/storage tank of the unit absorbs solar radiation through its highly selective surface
that raises the temperature of the water stored in the collector. Water flows through the cold
water supply line into the lowest tube of the unit. The tubes in the P
connected in series so that the top of the lower tube feeds the bottom of the next tube. This
flow configuration ensures the delivery of the hottest water for each usage.
The colder replacement water is contained in the lower tubes where it is heated by the sun.
When hot water is used in the household, solar preheated water is drawn into the conventional
water heater, reducing or eliminating electricity or gas usage for heating water. (A direct solar
system does not use a conventional water heater. Hot water flows directly from the unit to the
point of use).
Passive Solar Water Heaters are designed to efficiently collect solar
units for heating or storing anything except POTABLE water.
system is a passive system because it has no moving parts and
1. Check local codes for plumbing and roof load requirements. Installations must meet all
local code requirements for penetrating structural members and fire rated assemblies.
2. Obtain all applicable permits.
3. Inspect the roof. If it is in poor condition, advise the homeowner before
the installation
is begun.
4. Properly plan the installation by inspecting the attic and location of the conventional
water heater. Discuss the proposed location of ht system’s major components with the
homeowner to avoid any possible conflicts.
5. Make sure you have all necessary materials at the job site before starting the
installation. Proper planning reduces labor and material costs.
6. P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
Solar Water Heaters are designed for POTABLE WATER use only.
The collector/storage tank is constructed of copper alloy. Each shipment of material
shipped to TCT S
the ANSI and ASTM standard for potable water piping. TCT S
OLAR is certified to be greater than 99.05% pure copper. This alloy is
OLAR’S Warranty on
corrosion specifically states the “water must meet EPA Standards of Potable Drinking
Water and have a PH maintained between 7.0 and 9.0 at all times”. Some areas may
not have water quality that meets these warranty criteria. If water is too acidic, “pitting
corrosion” can occur. If the situation is prolonged, the corrosion action can result in “pinhole” leaks in the tubes. Pitting corrosion is always clear indication of aggressive water.
If there is a concern for water quality and the ability to maintain proper PH levels then
measures should be taken to properly condition the water before it enters the
P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
. Water softener/conditioners work very well to relieve this problem.
If the situation cannot be resolved, then considerations should be taken as to whether
the installation should proceed.
V. INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS
The following are important measures to follow to ensure a safe, trouble free installation.
1. Remove the temporary labels after installing the unit (i.e., “In”, “Out”, and “Do Not
Use Pipe Connections for Handles”).
2. Remove the plastic pipe caps before exposing the unit to full sunlight; otherwise
they may melt onto the inlet and outlet nipples.
3. Be careful of the inlet and outlet nipples during installation. The unit can dry
stagnate up to 400
4. Do not lift or handle the unit by the copper inlet and outlet nipples. You could crack
a weld and cause the unit to leak. This is not covered by the warranty. Each
unit is pressure tested to 165 psig during manufacturing and again at 50 psig before
shipment.
0
F causing the nipples to produce severe burns if touched.
7
5. Use 95/5 or 60/40 lead free solder for the collector piping because of the high
temperature stagnation of the unit.
6. Keep the collector covered during installation. Even early morning sun can quickly
heat up the absorber. It is most important that the unit be vented to the atmosphere
before and while being filled. It is recommended that the collector be filled before
soldering the return piping to the collector outlet, or open the pressure relief valve or
open the boiler drain on the return line, or in some other fashion make sure the unit
is vented to the atmosphere. Failure to follow these instructions willvoid the
warranty and could damage the unit.
7. The collector should stagnate wet (filled) during times of non-use, except during
severe winter conditions where temperatures are below 10
0
F. Under these
conditions the collector and the solar loop piping should be drained.
8. Remember, the collector can easily produce 180°F to 200°F water during clear,
sunny weather.
VI. COLLECTOR ORIENTATION
The installation site of the collector should be chosen so the unit receives maximum solar
exposure. It should never receive more than 10% shade on the collector absorption surface
between 10:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m. The location should be as close as possible to the
conventional water heater to minimize the piping run, which should not exceed 75 feet.
For optimum performance in the northern hemisphere, the collector should face due south.
Slightly decreased but good performance can be expected from a collector facing within 45
0
of
due south. In the southern hemisphere the opposite direction, due north, is faced for optimum
performance.
The unit tilted to local latitude in Sunbelt areas will produce the best overall performance. (This
rule of thumb should also be followed for installations in tropical zones such as the Caribbean).
Increasing the tilt 10
Sunbelt, the tilt for best year round performance is latitude plus 10
0
to 150 in the Sunbelt will improve winter performance. In areas above the
0
to 150. These parameters
are valid in both northern and southern hemispheres.
VII. COLLECTOR MOUNTING HARDWARE OPTIONS
There are three mounting hardware options.
Adjustable Tilt Mount (Drawing B)
Fixed Mount (Drawing A)
Flush Mount (Drawing C)
Choose the hardware system best suited for the particular installation.
The chart on page 11, “Mount Dimensions and Angles” gives the tilt angle of the collector for
the various Standoff lengths that are used with the Tilt Mount hardware. The chart also gives
the width distance between roof penetrations for the Fixed and Flush Mount sets.
8
PTMS Part List
A) Clamps: Qty 4
B) Mounting Brackets: Qty 4
COLLECTOR MOUNTING OPTIONS
Drawing A - Fixed Mount
For installation parallel to the roof PTMS
C) 3/8”x 1” Hex Head Cap Screws: Qty 4
D)3/8”X 2¼”HEX HEAD CAP SCREWS:QTY 4
E) 3/8” Lock Nuts: Qty 8
F)CROSS CHANNELS:QTY 2
9
Drawing B - Adjustable Tilt Mount
For Installation with additional angle of the roof or ground mounting
The structure of the roof should first be examined to determine the dimensions of its members.
Check applicable codes as to loading requirements. The roof penetrations should be located
over an attic or similar space that is not blocked by a chimney, beams, or other obstacles.
Preparation of the roof area and procedures for anchoring to the roof members must be done
carefully to avoid causing leaks or weakening the roof. In a new home installation, much of the
mounting work can be performed after the roof has been framed and sheathed. In some cases,
such as built-up roofs, the mounting work can be performed before the waterproof membrane is
applied. On tile roofs, the mounting work is best performed after the waterproof membrane is
applied, but before the tiles are laid.
The P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
mounted horizontally. A level horizontal position is the only acceptable mount for installations
above latitude 40
installed vertically there will be considerable air entrapment within the absorber/storage tank
and, once filled, it is very difficult to drain.
A collector is exposed not only to sunlight and its destructive ultraviolet radiation, but also to
wind forces. Collectors installed in areas that experience hurricane force winds are particularly
challenged. Florida codes require that a collector and its mounting structure be able to
withstand intermittent wind loads up to 140+ mph. P
hardware have been wind load tested to 180 mph and hundreds of units have survived storms
with winds in excess of 180 mph. The structural integrity of a collector is most important when
considering long-term performance.
A. Load Bearing and Bracing
Whenever possible, mount the collector over a load-bearing wall or near the peak of the
pitched roof (usually within 15” of the roof crown). If neither of these sites are practical
and the collector must be installed on an open span of roof, extra means must be
employed to ensure a safe, proper installation. If the roof structure is of a 2”x4” truss
design, spread the load over at least five trusses and reinforce, or brace all truss
members where needed to comply with local building codes. See the Typical Roof
Bracing drawings in the Appendix for suggested roof structure bracing.
Note: When filled, a single P
665 lbs. Do Not mount the collector without adequate support as determined by
applicable building codes and sound building safety practices.
B. Roof Piping and Penetrations
It is best to locate pipe penetrations through the roof as close to the collectors as
possible. In some cases it may be possible to pipe both the supply and return lines
through the same penetration. Piping through the roof must be weather proofed.
Usually, a hole is drilled in the roof large enough for the copper pipe to pass through. A
standard plumbing roof vent stack flashing cover is placed around the hole with its base
cemented to the roof using appropriate roof caulking such as polyurethane. Slide its
upper edge under the adjoining shingle. Caulking is then placed in the top and around
the copper pipe and insulation. A “coolie cap” can be fashioned, see Drawing D, to
was specifically designed for maximum performance and draining when
0
. Installing a unit in a vertical position is not recommended. If a unit is
ROGRESSIVTUBE
units and mounting
ROGRESSIVTUBE
collector can weigh between 240 lbs and
12
provide a waterproof seal. Another method is to make a flat copper flashing with an
oversize tube, which is penetrated by the copper water pipe. A coolie cap is made from
a reducing coupling that fits the oversized copper tube and is large enough for the
copper water pipe to just pass through. It is then soldered to the oversized copper tube
and the copper water pipe. See Drawing E. Make sure the pipe penetrations are
downhill from the collector connections. Water will not drain uphill.
DRAWING D
INSULATOR
COOLIE HAT
DRAWINGE
COPPER COOLIE HAT
(SOLDERED TO THRU PIPING)
C. Roof Mount Penetrations
Roof penetrations for mounting the collector can be any of the methods shown in
Drawing F. Appropriate waterproofing methods must be used. It is recommended to
use pitch pans, mounting blocks, or flashing under the universal mounting bracket and
COPPER PIPE
SHINGLE
CAULKING
ROOFING FELT
INSULATION
SHEATHING
TO THE
COLLECTOR(S)
PENETRATION
USING FLAT
FLASHING
SEALANT
FLAT CLOPPER FLASHING
13
roofing material. Weather proof with appropriate sealant. Consult the waterproofing and
roof attachment drawings Details Q – Z in the Appendix for additional details.
In retrofit situations, rafters or roof trusses may be located from inside the attic if the
crawl space is large enough to permit access. Small galvanized nails may be driven up
beside the rafters at the desired anchoring point; this locates the penetration points for
the installers on the roof. Measure and mark the four roof penetration points for the
mounting bolts.
If access to the attic is not adequate, trusses can be located by looking or nails in the
facia board. They show the location and spacing of the trusses. Locate the mounting
points by measuring across the roof ridge and popping a chalk line between the ridge
and the facia along the run of the truss see Drawing G. The may not be perfectly
straight, so the chalk line will be close to, but not precisely on, the truss run. Many
installers use the variation in tone associated with external hammer blows to locate the
run of the truss.
Most roofs are either asphalt or fiberglass shingles. They are stapled or nailed in an
overlapping pattern over the felted plywood that comprises the roof sheathing. Old
brittle asphalt shingles may break underfoot. Use care until the condition of the shingles
is determined. Mount bases can be installed directly over pliable shingles; no special
preparation is necessary. Holes for the anchoring bolts should be drilled through the
shingles. The penetration holes should be completely encircled with roof sealant to
provide a watertight seal.
Roofs with hard, non-flexible shingles such as cedar shake and asbestos should be
treated the same as tile roofs.
Standing seam metal roofs are treated much the same as flexible shingle roofs. The
mount bases can be installed directly over the metal sheathing. On corrugated metal
roofs the penetrations must be made on the crown of the corrugation, never in the valley.
Special care must be taken when sealing this type of roof.
DRAWING F
TYPE 1
ROOFING
MATERIAL
TYPE 2
2”X4” CROSS
BRACE
3/8” NUT AND BOLT
OR THREADER ROD
RAFTER
SPACER TO MATCH
RAFTER
14
3/8” J BOLT
3” PENETRATION MIN.
AIN RAFTER WHEN
USING LAG BOLTS
PITCHPAN OR OTHER WATERPROOFING METHODS NOT
ILLUSTRATED
DRAWING G
4. POP A CHALK LINE DOWN ROOF ALONG
TRUSS.
A METHOD OF LOCATING MOUNTING POINTS
3. MEASURE TO
APPROXIMATE TRUSS
POSITION ALONG
ROOF RIDGE.
1. LOCATE NAILS IN FASCIA EITHER VISUALLY OR
WITH STUD FINDER (TRUSSES ARE USUALLY
MOUNTED ON 2-FOOT CENTERS).
D. South/North Roof Mounts
Most homes have a south facing roof. This roof area should be utilized for the collector
location unless there are shade or aesthetic problems. Follow the guidelines in Section
VI Collector Orientation, while taking into consideration the appearance of the system on
the home. Homeowners prefer systems that are not obtrusive and blend in with the
general architectural lines of the home.
Either the Fixed Mount or Flush Mount hardware systems are used for this situation.
The collector is installed parallel to the plane of the roof and the edge of the collector
should be in parallel with the roof ridgeline. The Fixed Mount system raises the
collector approximately 2.5 inches above the roof to allow air to circulate under the
collector and to prevent debris from accumulating along the top of the collector. If using
TYPE 3 TYPE 4
3/8” THREADED ROD
WITH NUTS AND
WASHERS
ROOFING
MATERIAL
RAFTER OR
MATCHING SLEEPER
5. MEASURE TO ACTUAL MOUNTING
POINTS AND PREPARE ROOF SURFACE.
2.CHOOSE MOUNTING TRUSSES.
¼” X 1” STEEL
STRAP (MIN.)
ROOF RIDGE
FASCIA
15
the Flush Mount system, 2” x 6” pressure treated lumber blocks or exterior grade
material are used to create the air space under the collector. See Drawing C. To avoid
potential roof damage from mildew and rotting it is not recommended for the collector to
sit directly on the roof surface.
Sometimes the collector cannot be installed on the south-facing roof. An alternative is to
use a Reverse Pitch installation See Drawing H. The adjustable tilt mount hardware
system is used with extra long standoffs. Usually, three-foot standoffs are adequate for
PT-20-CN, PT-30-CN units and four-foot standoffs for PT-40-CN, and PT-50-CN units.
DRAWING H
STANDOFFS SHOULD BE ANCHORED ON THE ROOF WITH THE DEGREE AT
ANGLE “A” BEING LESS THAN 75 DEGREES.
E. East/West Roof Mounts
Homes that do not have an acceptable south facing or reverse pitch location or that have
only north/south roof ridge line must use the Adjustable Tilt Mount system. The mounts
are anchored to parallel rafters and the collector is installed perpendicular to the roof
plane, facing south, at an angle equal to local latitude. This installation is sometimes
referred to as a “sawtooth position”.
For east or west facing roofs, the piping connections should always face downwards see
Drawing I. When installed on a west roof, the inlet pipe will become the outlet pipe and
visa versa. The west roof installation will result in slightly reduced performance, some
air entrapment and will only partially drain; therefore, this installation should only be used
if no other position is available. The west roof installation position should particularly be
avoided in severe freezing climates. In moderately freezing climates a freeze prevention
valve must be used on east and west roof installations. East roof installations will have
no air entrapment or loss of performance. A collector on an east roof will drain most of
the water in the tank, but the greater the slope of the roof the more water retained in the
tank. The collector must not be mounted on an east or west sloping roof that has a pitch
greater than 35
0
REVERSE PITCH
COLLECTOR TILTED TO LOCAL LATITUDE
NORTH FACING ROOF SOUTH FACING ROOF
.
ANGLE “A”
16
DRAWING I
F. Tile Roof Installations
P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
tile abutted to the collector. Installation Details Q and Z in the Appendix illustrates
these two methods. For anchoring the collector to the roof, the Spanner Mount Detail Q
is recommended. This technique allows for greater placement flexibility.
Tile roofs require more preparation than shingle roofs. When walking on these roofs,
care must be taken not to break the tiles or slip on loose ones. Never walk on the
crowns of barrel tiles. Broken tiles must be repaired with roofing adhesive or replaced.
This can increase installation time and cost. Tiles in the area of the intended mounting
penetrations may be broken up with a hammer and removed, or for a cleaner and
quicker installation, sawed out. Remove as few tiles as possible, because the area must
be totally sealed upon the completion of the mount bracket installation to protect the
underlying waterproof membrane. When the tiles are removed, the exposed waterproof
membrane may be treated as if it were a shingle roof. The broken tile may be replaced
with colored cement molded to look like the unbroken tile or a tile may be sized to cover
the mounting hardware base and anchoring bolt.
1. On Top Of Tile
The following basic procedures should be followed when installing the collector
on top of an existing tile roof. These procedures apply to both flat and barrel tile.
a) Determine the exact location on the roof where the four collector mounting
hardware roof penetrations are to be made.
b) Carefully remove one or two tiles at each location. If the tiles are “mudd ed” to
the weatherproof membrane, be sure not to tear or otherwise compromise the
integrity of the membrane.
DO NOT MOUNT THE UNIT VERTICALLY
WEST SLOPE EAST SLOPE
collectors are easily installed on tile roofs or flush to the roof with the
17
c) Clean off each location of all membrane grit, dirt, and tile debris.
d) Drill the four penetration holes into the roof. If using lag bolts, be sure the
starter holes are in the center of the rafter. Because of the added difficulty of
installing on tile roofs it is sometimes much easier to use a spanner mount
across the rafters. See Detail Q for proper spanner installation.
e) Seal the roof penetration holes by liberally encircling the holes with
polyurethane or butyl rubber caulking compound.
f) Spread a thick coating of caulking compound on the bottom of the J-Bracket
so it will be completely covered when set in place and bolted to the roof.
Caulking compound should seep out all along the bottom edge of the JBracket as the anchoring bolt is tightened into place.
g) After the J-Bracket is securely fastened to the roof, cover the head of the
anchoring bolt and the entire back portion of the J-Bracket with caulking
compound.
h) Replace as much tile as possible over the J-Bracket base as shown in Detail
F. A saw may be needed to cut the tile the proper length. After sizing the
tile, slide the back of it under the first tile above the J-Bracket. Be sure to
apply generous amounts of caulking compound between the sized tile, the
roof and the J-Bracket. The sized tile should overlap the anchoring bolt and
as much of the J-Bracket as possible.
i) Once all four J-Brackets are secured, caulked and re-tiled, they are ready for
the mount bases to be bolted on. Proceed with the remainder of the
hardware installation.
2. Flush To The Roof
ROGRESSIVTUBE
P
collectors can be installed flush to the weatherproof
membrane of a tile roof if a watertight seal can be formed between the bottom of
the collector and the membrane.
The following basic procedures should be followed when installing the collector
flush to the roof. These procedures apply to both flat and barrel tile.
a) Place the collector on the membrane in the exact location it will be anchored.
b) With a carpenter’s pencil or other suitable marker, trace the outline of the
collector onto the membrane. Do not use a sharp instrument, which might cut
into the membrane.
c) Move the collector aside.
d) Place Jiffy Seal 500, 6” wide sealing compound over the collector outline.
Start at the top of the collector outline and lay the strips.
e) Be sure the strips overlap the collector outline by at least 1 ¾”.
18
f) Remove the clear plastic protective lining on the Jiffy Seal. Lay the exposed
side of the sealing compound on the membrane and press into the roof with
palms of hands.
g) After all four strips have been laid into place, use a rubber mallet and firmly
hammer the entire strip down.
h) Remove the white paper protective lining of the Jiffy Seal.
i) Carefully place the collector on the sealing strips. Once in the desired
location, press the collector into the sealing compound.
j) Anchor the collector with the Flush Mount hardware. The Flush Mount clamp
should have the overlap of the sealing compound completely beneath it so
that a ½” or more of compound is exposed at the end of the clamp.
k) Once the collector is anchored, complete the piping connections.
l) Carefully notch-out the seal compound for the pipes if necessary. A flat, even
surface is necessary to properly seal the piping and pipe roof jacks.
m) Use a mallet and firmly hammer the sealing compound overlap all around the
collector to ensure a tight seal. Fill any gaps in the seal with caulk.
n) The tile can now be set flush to the collector. Caulking can be used to fill any
gaps between the collector and the tiles.
IX. GROUND MOUNTS
Ground mounted systems are the fastest and simplest installations. A ground mount must have
a stable, permanent foundation. A concrete HVAC pad or four standard concrete piers
embedded at least halfway in the ground are the recommended foundations see Drawing J.
Be sure to coat the threaded end of the bolts that secure the collector base mounts with
silicone caulk to prevent rust.
The lower edge of the collector should be at least one foot above the ground, so it will not be
obstructed by vegetation or partially submerged in standing water. Collectors mounted at
ground level can be more susceptible to damage (flying rocks from lawnmowers, etc) or
vandalism. The placing of an expanded metal mesh screen in front of the glass may be helpful
in preventing breakage.
In ground mount systems, if the collector is lower than the auxiliary tank within the house, then
the solar loop piping must slope downward from the house to the collector (or piping can be
buried in the ground running horizontally).
A boiler drain must be installed in all ground mounts at the collector inlet. A boiler drain or a
vacuum breaker must be installed at the collector outlet. Buried piping must be properly
insulated (min. ¾” wall) and non-degradable. In areas where severe freezing occurs, all
underground piping must be below the frost line and insulated with a minimum 1-1/2” wall
insulation see Drawing K. For ground mount systems that have two or more collectors, a boiler
drain must be installed at the inlet connection of all units and a vacuum breaker or boiler drain
must be installed at the outlet of each unit.
19
DRAWING J
RECOMMENDED FOUNDATION FOR
GROUND MOUNT INSTALLATION
FRONT VIEW
STANDARD CONCRETE PIER
THREADED JBOLT
EMBEDDED IN
PIER
12"
50” TO 60”
SIDE VIEW
4"
10"
48” TO 50” FOR PT-40-CN, PT-45-CN, AND PT–50-CN
36” TO 37” FOR PT-30-CN
22” TO 23” FOR PT-20-CN
20
DRAWING K
CONSULT SYSTEMS
DRAWINGS FOR CONTROL
VALVES CONFIGURATION
VACUUM BREAKER
OR BOILER DRAIN
INSULATE PIPES WITH PROPER UNDERGROUND INSULATION
PLACE FREEZE PREVENTION VALVE AS
CLOSE TO HOUSE AS POSSIBLE
FREEZE PREVENTION VALVE
PRESSURE RELIEF
CONSULT SYSTEMS
DRAWINGS FOR CONTROL
VALVES CONFIGURATION
PIPES INSIDE THE BUILDING
DO NOT REQUIRE
PROTECTION FROM
FREEZING
PRESSURE RELIEF
COPPER PIPE
BOILER DRAIN
STORAGE
TANK
MAKE SURE PIPES ARE BELOW FROST
LINE IN COLD CLIMATES
STORAGE TANK
VACUUM BREAKER
OR BOILER DRAIN
BOILER DRAIN
INSULATE PIPES WITH PROPER
UNDERGROUND INSULATION
CONSULT SYSTEMS
DRAWINGS FOR CONTROL
VALVES CONFIGURATION
COPPER PIPE VACUUM BREAKER
PROPERLY
INSULATE PIPES
COPPER PIPE
PLACE FREEZE PREVENTION
VALVE AS CLOSE TO HOUSE
AS POSSIBLE
PRESSURE RELIEF
OR BOILER DRAIN
BOILER DRAIN
MAKE SURE PIPES ARE BELOW
FROST LINE IN COLD CLIMATES
STORAGE TANK
21
X. SYSTEM PLUMBING
A PROGRESSIVTUBE unit can be installed as a pre-heater system or as a direct solar system.
Consult the recommended System Plumbing Diagrams for the type of system to be installed.
All piping must meet local code requirements for POTABLE hot water service and must be
installed to slope ¼” per foot of pipe run to insure proper drainage under shut down conditions.
Typically, piping must be ½” or ¾” diameter type “L” or “M” copper tubing sweated with 95/5 or
60/40 lead free solder. Soft copper tubing is recommended, because of its ability to expand
during mild freezing conditions. Never use PVC, CPVC, or PEX piping for the solar loop.
The total length piping from the collector to the storage tank should not exceed 100 feet; the
longer the pipe run, the greater length is necessary, an increase in piping diameter may be
required.
When plumbing Direct Systems (particularly in low latitude areas of the world) in a building
which has PVC plastic piping for the cold water supply, CPVC must be stubbed to the PVC
before connecting to a 20’ copper stub attached to the P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
inlet connection.
Excessive heat can migrate through the inlet connection and down the copper stub. It is
advised that the cold water supply piping in Direct Systems installed in low latitude areas not be
insulated to allow this migrating excessive heat to dissipate.
All systems should use bronze or brass valves rated at 400 psi W.O.G. and 100 psi at 300
0
F.
There must be a shut-off valve on the cold water supply and boiler drains on the supply and
return sides of the solar loop. It is recommended the boiler drain on the supply side be installed
slightly lower than the boiler drain on the return pipe to facilitate draining. Pre-heater systems
plumbed to a conventional gas water heater or instantaneous water heater must have a
tempering valve installed in the return line of the solar loop piping. Set the valve between 120
and 145
valve installed (as an option) in the hot water supply piping to the house. Set the valve between
120
0
F. Systems that pre-heat conventional electric water heaters can have a tempering
0
F and 1450F. The use of the Aquamix Anti-Scald tempering valve is highly recommended
0
F
for all installations. It is required for all SRCC OG 300 certified installations. When deciding the
temperature setting of the valve, the contractor should consider who will be using the system.
The chart below illustrates exposure times at various water temperatures that can result in
serious injury. Direct solar systems must use a tempering valve to prevent scalding because a
P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
can easily produce 1800F to 2000F of hot water during clear sunny weather.
The valve should be installed where it is not exposed to the weather.
Direct solar systems should not use plastic pipe to feed cold water to the tempering valve. The
water from the collector can melt the pipe from the valve. High temperature CPV plastic pipe
may be used down line of the tempering valve if a six foot copper stub is installed in the
tempering valve before the plastic pipe.
The flow control valve for pre-heater systems (direct solar systems do not need a flow control
valve) is used to by-pass the collector so that it may be drained for severe winter shutdown or in
the unlikely event of a problem with the collector. The by-pass mode will allow the conventional
water heater to continue to provide hot water for the house. The recommended flow control
valve is a 3-way ball valve. For FSEC certified two-way systems the flow control valve is the 3way ball valve identified as valve #2 in the plumbing schematics. In the SRCC schematic it is
valve #2B.
All systems must have a 150 psi pressure relief valve installed in the solar loop piping between
the collector and the flow control valve. The valve may be installed in the supply side of the
solar loop piping, the return side of the solar loop piping, or at the collector on either the inlet or
the outlet pipe connection. The supply side pipe is the recommended preferred location as is
shown in both the FSEC and SRCC approved system schematics. Some local codes may
require the pressure relief valve to have a drain line. If the valve is installed in the supply line as
shown in the plumbing schematics, its drain line can follow the same route as the drain line from
the T&P valve on the conventional water heater. Some local codes will allow both valves to
share the same drain line, some will not.
A check valve is used only if a freeze prevention valve is installed. It should be installed in the
return solar loop piping below the boiler drain to prevent short circuiting of the freeze prevention
valve during cold weather. Use a check valve that is designed for back-flow prevention when
installed in a vertical position.
XI. SYSTEM INSULATION
All piping, fittings, valves, and the conventional water heater must be well insulated. Even small
sections of bare pipe will cause substantial heat loss at elevated temperatures. The cold water
supply line will also conduct heat away from the system unless it is insulated. Only Direct
Systems installed in tropical or low latitude areas should have un-insulated supply lines. Use a
¾” wall, closed-cell tube insulation such as Rubatex, Armaflex, or Insul-tube in mild climates. In
cold climates, where freezing occurs, 1.5” wall insulation must be used. The chart on page 24
illustrates the freezing characteristics of various copper pipe and insulation configurations.
Remember, TCT’s warranty does not cover freeze damage to any system piping. All tube
insulation exposed to sunlight must be protected from UV degradation. Use pipe insulation
jackets or a coating of exterior grade latex paint, or metal tape. Do not use duct tape because it
will quickly deteriorate when exposed to outdoor conditions. If the solar system is retrofitted to a
pre-existing conventional water heater, the water heater should be insulated with an extra super
insulation jacket. At least two inches of fiberglass batt is recommended see Detail W in the Appendix. If the conventional water heater is of the high efficiency type insulated with R-12 or
better foam insulation, it will not need additional insulation
23
XII. FREEZE PREVENTION
P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
country due to their thermal mass and heavy insulation. However, the pipes leading to and from
the collector can freeze. Collector piping should be as short as possible and should penetrate
the building as close to the conventional water heater as possible to minimize exposed runs of
piping. Exposed piping or piping in unheated attic spaces must be insulated with a minimum of
1½” wall insulation. It is extremely important that all piping be installed to slope a minimum of
¼” per foot of pipe run to ensure proper draining during severe cold weather. The following
table is a guide to the hours required to freeze solid ¾” type M and type L copper pipe that has
been wrapped with Armaflex/Rubatex pipe insulation of various thickness.
All systems must have a manual drain down capacity as discussed in the System Plumbing
section and shown in the System Plumbing Diagrams. A recommended option for all systems
installed in areas that experience freezing conditions in an automatic freeze prevention valve
such as the Eaton/Dole FP-35. The valve should be installed according to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (and Drawing L) on the return solar loop piping between the collector and
the roof (consult the System Plumbing Diagrams). A swing type check valve must also be
installed on the return solar loop piping to prevent short circuiting of the freeze prevention valve.
Thermostatically controlled pipe heat tape can also be used as a freeze prevention measure for
the piping.
Because contractors have greater knowledge and experience of their local winter weather
patterns and conditions, it is their responsibility to decide if a freeze prevention valve or heat
tape is necessary for the system.
In northern climates, the collector should be shut down by draining during any months that
average or exceed 1,000 heating degree days. The collector should also be drained whenever
severe freezing conditions exist, below 10
expected from P
ambient temperatures. It is most important for local contractors to realize it is their
responsibility to use the most appropriate and reliable techniques necessary for their area to
prevent freeze damage to their customer’s piping or collector.
collectors are virtually freeze proof throughout the Sunbelt area of the
0
F with overcast skies. Good performance can be
ROGRESSIVTUBE
systems during daytime conditions of clear skies and cold
24
r
g
DRAWING L
From
Collecto
Model FP-35
(Valve opens at +/-38 F)
Copper pipe
INSULATE
12”
DO NOT INSULATE
To
Storage
Valve must be installed with drain port down
Caution:
Do not solder near Freeze Valve
Do not over tighten
Use pipe dope or Teflon tape
Do not insulate Freeze Valve
¾” C x ½” F
Flush Bushin
Copper pipe
INSULATE
Or
¾” x ½” F
Adapter may
be used
instead of
bushing
Drain Port
25
PIPE FREEZE TIMES
RUBATEX and ARMAFLEX
K = 0.270 Btu-in/hr-F-sq ft
TYPE M TYPE L
Pipe ID/OD (in.) 0.811/0.875 0.785/0.875
Insulation (R) 2.6 4.4 6.3 10.7 2.6 4.4 6.3 10.7
Thickness (in.) 0.50 0.75 1.00 1.50 0.50 0.75 1.00 1.50
AMBIENT (F) HOURS TO FREEZE SOLID HOURS TO FREEZE SOLID
“Hours to Freeze Solid” are calculated figures. Actual freezing times may be shorter due to prevailing
weather conditions.
26
XIII. TWO OR MORE COLLECTOR SYSTEMS
Households with more than six members or with a large hot water demand should consider
having a two-unit system. Light commercial applications such as restaurants, car washes,
housing with central hot water systems, bathhouses, and process hot water can be served with
multiple collector systems.
Two unit systems must be plumbed together in parallel to ensure that both collectors drain
properly. The piping flow paths must be of equal length so each collector receives equal flow
pressure. Make sure all piping slopes ¼” per foot so the collectors and all piping drain
completely.
A two unit system could be plumbed in series, but only in non-freezing areas because the
second collector cannot be easily drained. If a series configuration is necessary, a boiler drain
must be installed at the inlet and the outlet of the second collector or else the supply line and
the return line have to be disconnected from the collector in order for it to drain. The
performance of tow unit systems is equal whether plumbed in parallel or series so the ability to
drain and the ease of performing this function are the main considerations when choosing the
flow pattern.
As show in Drawing M the recommended configuration has both units installed in the normal
horizontal position with the inlet/outlet pipe nipples on the right hand side of the collector. This
configuration has a considerable length of piping exposed on the roof. Be sure to insulate this
piping well and to run it as close to the collectors as possible to limit any possible negative
aesthetics. If the collectors are tilted up, the piping can run behind them, making a much
cleaner looking installation.
The Alternative Configuration has improved aesthetics by “flipping” the second collector around
so the pipe nipples are on the left hand side of the collector facing the pipe nipples of the first
collector, which is installed in the normal horizontal position. The inlet on the second collector
now becomes the outlet and the outlet becomes the inlet. This configuration is acceptable, but
there are three factors that could affect performance. In-house testing has shown that a flipped
collector will have slightly reduced performance, some air entrapment, and will only partially
drain. The contractor will have to decide the requirements of each installation when choosing
which configuration to use.
Proper positioning of a two unit system is an important consideration because of potential
excessive roof loading. On south facing roofs the units must be installed side by side, as in
Drawing N. Never install two units one above the other on the same rafters. Be sure to
properly distribute the weight of the two units and to install all necessary bracing to the roof.
Another acceptable method of installing a two unit system on an east or west facing roof is to
face one unit due east and one unit due west within 15” of the roof crown. The units should be
installed in the normal horizontal position and plumbed in parallel. Do not “flip” the east facing
unit. Plumb the supply line to the inlet connection of both units and the return line to the outlet
connections of both collectors (see Drawing O).
Systems that require multiple collectors should be designed to operate in parallel. Each unit
should be plumbed independently into the supply and return lines or as parallel pairs so they will
drain properly.
27
Multiple collector systems can be installed in series in non-freezing areas, but in order to drain
N
.)
g
the system each collector must have a boiler drain at the inlet connection and a boiler drain or
vacuum breaker at the outlet connection. Never plumb more than two units in series. Plumbing
three or more units in series will greatly reduce the system’s efficiency (see Drawing P).
Supply and return lines for multiple collector systems should be 1 ¼” diameter for systems up to
four collectors, 1.5” diameter for six collectors, 2” diameter for ten collectors. For larger
systems, proper engineers should be consulted.
DRAWING M
RECOMMENDED CONFIGURATION
TWO UNIT SYSTEM PIPED IN
PARALLEL
OUTLET
CAUTION: Pipe between units must be of equal
th between inlet and outlet fittings.
len
ALTERNATIVE CONFIGURATION
INLET
INLET
OUTLET
(THIS UNIT IS FLIPPED O VER SO THE
OUTLET B E COMES THE INLET AND THE
LET BECOMES THE OUTLET
I
28
DRAWING N
PROPER POSITIONING
OF TWO UNITS ON
SOUTH ROOFS.
THIS POSITION IS NOT ALLOWED.
DRAWING O
MAXIMUM DISTANCE COLLECTOR MOUNT FROM ROOF CROWN 15”
THIS POSITION MUST BE
WITHIN 15” OF ROOF CROWN.
THIS POSITION MUST BE
OVER A LOAD BEARING
WALL.
WEST FACING ROOF EAST FACING ROOF
SUPPLY LINE RETURN LINE
29
DRAWING P
-
XIV. DIRECT SYSTEMS
Direct solar systems are usually installed in low latitude areas of the world that have an
abundance of sunlight. Since the solar collection day is longer and solar radiation is more
intense, a P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
temperature performance, while useful, requires careful consideration.
Direct Systems should never be plumbed with PVC plastic pipe. It cannot tolerate water
temperatures above 120
minimum 20’ length of copper pipe must be plumbed to the collector’s inlet and outlet
connections. CPVC can then be connected to the copper pipe. CPVC cannot tolerate water
temperatures above 160
excess heat to vent to the atmosphere. The CPVC hot water line should be as long as possible
before being connected to PVC. For greater reliability, CPVC should be used for the entire hot
water circuit. However, the best solution is to plumb the hot water system entirely in copper
pipe.
P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
collectors work well as gravity feed systems. As long as the cold water
supply is above the collector and the usage of the hot water is below the collector, the system
will operate properly.
collector can easily produce 1800F to 2000F water. This high
0
F. If an existing home is plumbed with PVC cold water lines, a
0
F so the 20’ copper stubs may both need to be uninsulated to allow
30
In some areas, such as the Caribbean, there is a brief period during the year in which rain and
heavy cloud cover can reduce the thermal performance of the collector. This can be a problem
if a large hot water demand is made on the collector in the late afternoon or evening and then
another hot water demand is made early the next morning before the sun has had enough time
to recharge the unit. On a clear, sunny morning in low latitude areas, about two hours of direct
sunlight is usually required to recharge a unit.
If an auxiliary backup is desired, thought should be given to installing a small electric water
heater that is only enabled during in-climate weather. Detail Y in the Appendix is a suggested
schematic for plumbing this auxiliary water heater.
A very inexpensive way to extend the hot water supply of a direct system is to use an anti-scald
mixing valve and to install low flow, 1 gpm to 2.5 gpm, restrictors at all hot water outlets in the
home.
XV. START UP PROCEDURES
1. Clean the glazing.
2. If possible, fill the collector in the morning before sun light heats up the absorber.
3. Set the flow control valves to the solar pre-heat position. Consult system valve position
drawings. Close the boiler drain on the supply side to the solar loop piping. Open the
boiler drain on the return side.
4. It is most important that the unit be vented to the atmosphere before and while being
filled. It is recommended that the collector be filled before soldering the return piping to
the collector outlet, or open the pressure relief valve or open the boiler drain on the
return line, or in some other fashion make sure the unit is vented to the atmosphere.
Failure to follow these instructions could void the warranty and damage the unit.
5. Open the cold water shut-off valve to fill the collector. Allow the air to be purged from
the system through the open boiler drain on the return side of the solar loop piping.
6. Allow water to flow from the system for several minutes to flush out the collector and the
piping.
7. Close the open boiler drain. Carefully inspect the system for leaks. Open the 2-way ball
valve (#3 in the plumbing drawings).
8. Turn on a hot water faucet in the house to purge any remaining air from the system.
9. Set the system for normal operation by turning on the conventional water heater’s
heating elements. Set the thermometer to 110
10. Set the tempering valve between 150
water heater; between 120
11. Make sure all FSEC, SRCC and manufacturer required labels are placed on the system.
Consult FSEC or SRCC appendix for required labels and their placements.
0
F and 1400F for electric systems or direct solar systems.
0
F or less.
0
F and 1600F for gas systems and instantaneous
31
12. Give Owner’s Manual and Warranty to homeowner and go over all operations of the
system.
13. For installation and operation of the instantaneous water heater, please follow the
manufacturer operation manual.
XVI. DRAIN PROCEDURES
1. Position the flow control valve in the solar by-pass mode. Consult system valve position
drawings.
2. Attach hoses to both boiler drains.
3. Open both boiler drains. Make sure hoses drain the water to a proper location. Caution:
Water may be extremely hot.
4. After all water has been drained from the collector, close both boiler drains and remove
hoses.
The conventional water heater will continue to provide hot water to the household when the
collector is by-passed and drained.
XVII. MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION
The P
from time to time, the glazing of the collector may need to be cleaned. The best time to clean
the glass is early morning before the collector gets to hot. Use a household glass cleaner and
soft cloth.
If the homeowner cannot get water to flow from the hot water lines, the problem is probably with
the local water source and not the system. Check the cold water supply.
ROGRESSIVTUBE
Solar Water Heating system is virtually maintenance free. However,
A homeowner can tell if their system is working by turning on a hot water faucet in the house
and allowing it to run for several minutes. For Direct Systems, this test is very simple. If hot
water comes from the faucet, the system is working. A homeowner with an FSEC approved
two-way system can perform one of the following procedures to check the solar pre-heater part
of the system. After letting the hot water faucet run for a few minutes, by lightly touching,
compare the temperature of the boiler drain (5B) see s ystem drawings in Appendix on the
supply side of the solar loop piping with the temperature of the boiler drain (5A) on the return
side. The boiler drain (5A) on the return side should feel significantly hotter than the boiler drain
(5B) on the supply side. For a more precise measurement, place a bucket under the boiler
drain (5A) on the return line and fill it with water after letting a hot water faucet in the house run
for several minutes. Use a thermometer and compare the difference in the temperature of the
water in the bucket with water coming from a cold-water faucet. Both tests are best performed
during the afternoon of a clear, sunny day.
For SRCC OG 300 certified three-way systems, the proper procedure for checking the system’s
operation is to place the system in the Solar Direct mode of operation. Turn on the hot water
32
faucet in the household and allow the water to run. If it goes from cold to warm to hot, the
system is working properly. This test is the same as for any conventional residential gas or
electric water heater. For a more precise measurement follow the procedure above for
comparing the temperature difference between the supply and return piping. Again, these tests
are best performed during the afternoon of a clear sunny day.
If the system is to be unused for a long period of time, such as absence due to vacation times, it
is best to leave the P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
system filled with water and in the solar pre-heat mode.
If unused for long periods of time during winter months in freezing climates, it is best to drain the
collector and the solar loop piping.
33
APPENDIX
SRCC CERTIFIED OG 300 THREE-WAY SYSTEM
SRCC SECTION:
The solar energy system described by this manual, when properly installed and maintained,
meets the minimum standards established by the SRCC. This certification does not imply
endorsement or warranty of this product by SRCC.
The following procedures are required for SRCC certified systems.
1. The SRCC OG 300 three-way system plumbing schematic must be followed when
installing the system.
2. All standards in the SRCC OG 300 Operating Guidelines and Minimum Standards
(January 1996) must be met.
3. A 40 or 50-gallon conventional electric, gas or the use of an instantaneous water heater
must be used as a backup water heater. Direct systems water heater as a backup is not
SRCC certified.
4. An anti-scald valve must be used on the hot water out to the household (see plumbing
schematic).
5. All piping in unheated attic spaces or exposed to outdoor weather conditions in climates
where freezing might occur, must have a minimum of 1.5” of Rubatex or Armaflex pipe
insulation or some other form of pipe insulation that has an R value of 10.7 or greater.
6. There must be a cold water shut off valve on the cold water inlet supply line so the hot
water system can be isolated from the house cold water supply.
7. All
8. Place the Freeze Protection sticker provided on the conventional water heater in a place
PROGRESSIVTUBE® solar water heating systems have a freeze tolerance limit of 10°F
ambient temperature. Freeze tolerance limits are based upon an assumed set of
environmental conditions. Extended periods of cold weather, including ambient air
temperatures above the specified limit, may cause freezing in exposed parts of the
system. It is the owner’s responsibility to protect the system in accordance with the
Supplier’s instructions if the air temperature is anticipate to approach the specified
freeze tolerance limit.
that is noticeable and easy for the homeowner to read. If the sticker is lost or damaged,
type a new one and tape it with clear tape on the tank (completely cover the label with
clear tape to protect it).
34
Freeze Protection Information
The freeze protection method of this system is thermal mass and manual draining. In
some areas an automatic freeze prevention valve may have been installed. This valve
will open during freezing weather and allow a small flow of water. Drain the system as
instructed in the Owner’s Manual when air temperatures of 10°F or below are expected.
9. Place the “Refilling Your Collector” label on the return line boiler drain. If label is
damaged or missing, type a new one on heavy paper stock and seal in clear plastic to
make it waterproof. Attach the label with wire or plastic tie. Label must
read as follows:
IMPORTANT
READ BEFORE REFILLING
YOUR COLLECTOR
If you have drained your collector, for any reason, it is most important that the collector be
vented to the atmosphere during refilling. Refer to the Owner’s Manual or the directions on the
other side of this tag. Only potable water is to be used in this system.
Warning: Water could be discharged at high temperature and/or pressure.
Open This Valve Before Filling
Place a hose on or a bucket under this drain valve. Open this valve. The collector is now
vented to the atmosphere. Fill the collector. Close this valve when water starts to flow out of it.
It is strongly recommended that you refill your collector in the morning or early evening. Filling a
hot, empty collector without this valve being opened or some other means taken to vent the
collector to the atmosphere could damage your system and void the warranty.
10. Place the isolation valve label on the two-way ball valve on the return line (valve #3 in
the schematic). If label is lost or damaged, type a new one on heavy paper stock and
seal in clear plastic to make it waterproof. Attach the label with plastic or wire tie. The
label must read as follows:
System Isolation Valve – Normally Open
11. Give homeowner a copy of the Owner’s Manual, SRCC Certification Award, Warranty
and local phone number of the installing contractor. Go over all operations of the system
and how to obtain warranty service if needed.
35
SRCC CERTIFIED OG 300 THREE-WAY SYSTEM
SYSTEM PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION
PT-20-CN
PT-30-CN
PT-40-CN
PT-50-CN
PT-20-CN-G
PT-30-CN-G
PT-40-CN-G
PT-50-CN-G
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Electric Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Electric Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Electric Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Electric Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Gas Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Gas Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Gas Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Gas Water Heater
PT-40-CN-GX
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with GasWater Heater and
PT-50-CN-GX
Extra Tank Insulation
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with GasWater Heater and
Extra Tank Insulation
36
11
outlet
10
1. Supply Shut Off Valve
2. 3-way Ball Valve
3. 2-way Ball Valve
4. Tempering Valve
5. Boiler Drain
6. Pressure Relief Valve
7. Conventional Water Heater
8. Temperature/Pressure Relief
Valve
9. Roof Flashing
10. Vacuum Breaker
11. PROGRESSIVTUBE®
Ho t Water
Ou t
Hot Water
Ou tle t
5A
4
MIX
inlet
9
9
6
3
5B
1
COLD
HOT
2A
2B
Cold Water
Inle t
Cold Water
In
8
7
37
SRCC CERTIFIED GAS TANKLESS SYSTEM
SYSTEM PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION
PT-20-CN-TL
PT-30-CN-TL
PT-40-CN-TL
PT-50-CN-TL
12. Supply Shut Off Valve
13. 3-way Ball Valve
14. 2-way Ball Valve
15. Tempering Valve
16. Boiler Drain
17. Pressure Relief Valve
18. Gas Tankless Water Heater
19. Gas line
20. Roof Flashing
21. Vacuum Breaker
ROGRESSIVTUBE
22. P
®
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Tankless Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Tankless Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Tankless Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector
Storage with Tankless Water Heater
11
inlet
9
5A
6
outlet
10
9
7
3
4
HOT
COLD
MIX
5B
1
Cold Water
In
2
Hot Water
Out
Cold Water
Inlet
38
8
LIMITED
TEN-YEAR CONSUMER WARRANTY
THERMALCONVERSIONTECHNOLOGY
101COPELAND STREET,JACKSONVILLE,FL32204
1.WHAT IS COVERED BY THIS WARRANTY
The PROGRESSIVTUBE® Passive Solar Water Heater (Product) is warranted by Thermal
Conversion Technology (the Manufacturer), to be free of defects in materials and
workmanship and from damage due to freezing and overheating for a period of ten years
from the date of the original purchase, subject to the conditions, limitations, and exclusions
set forth below. This warranty applies to the original purchaser and to all subsequent
owners during the warranty period.
2. WHAT IS NOT COVERED BY THIS WARRANTY
This warranty does not apply to:
(a) Conditions resulting from a defect in a component or part, which is not part
of the product or manufactured by the Manufacturer.
(b) Conditions resulting from a significant departure from the Manufacturer’s
Installation and Operation Manual, or Owner’s Manual, including any
violation of use restrictions expressed therein.
(c) Corrosion that is caused by operating the Product with any fluid other than
potable domestic water. Specifically, water must meet EPA Standards for
Potable Drinking Water and have PH maintained between 7.0 and 9.0 at all
times.
(d) Conditions which result in excessive scale build-up within the Product.
(e) Conditions which cause flow velocities in the Product to exceed 5
ft./second.
(f) Conditions resulting from failure to provide reasonable and necessary
maintenance in accordance with the Owner’s Manual, including failure to
drain the Product in the event of outdoor air temperatures below 10°F.
(g) Conditions resulting from any misuse, abuse, negligence, accident,
disassembly, or alteration.
(h) Normal fading and minor deterioration of exterior surfaces resulting from
exposure to the elements, except for conditions that significantly affect
performance.
(i) Breakage of glass.
(j) Conditions resulting from improper storage procedures before installation.
Improper storage procedures may consist of but not limited to storage in
any position other than horizontal with glass up and backsheet down.
(k) Conditions resulting from improper draining or filling.
3. FIVE YEAR FULL WARRANTY
During the first five years of the warranty period, the Manufacturer will repair the Product
using either new or used parts within a reasonable time and without charge for materials,
labor, or transportation. If the Manufacturer is unable to repair the Product after a
reasonable number attempts as determined by the Manufacturer, the Manufacturer will
provide either a refund for the purchase price or a replacement Product at Manufacturer’s
option.
4. FIVE YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY
During the remaining five years of the warranty period, the Manufacturer will repair the
Product using either new or used parts within a reasonable time and without charge for
materials. The purchaser of the Product will be charged for any labor and/or transportation
required for an on site diagnosis and the removal, repair and reinstallation of the required
material.
5. HOW TO OBTAIN WARRANTY SERVICE
To obtain warranty service on the Product, notify the Manufacturer by telephone or letter
and verify that the warranty is still in effect by giving identification of the equipment by
model number and the serial number, date of completion of installation, and the nature of
the warranty problem. Service will be provided by the Manufacturer, or a person, dealer or
distributor designed by it. This will ordinarily be the company from whom the Product was
purchased.
6. LIMITATION OF OTHER WARRANTIES
The warranty given in paragraph 1 is the exclusive express warranty on the Product and is
given in place of all other warranties. No warranty of merchantability or fitness for a
particular purpose shall apply. The agents, dealers and employees of the Manufacturer are
not authorized to make modifications to the warranty or additional warranties that are
binding on the Manufacturer. Accordingly, additional statements do not constitute
warranties and should not be relied on by the purchaser. The implied warranties given by
the State law are limited in duration to not more than the time specified in paragraph 1 or
one year, whichever is longer. Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied
warranty lasts so the above limitation may not apply to you.
7. LIMITATION OF LIABILITY FOR DAMAGES
In any case, the Manufacturer shall not be liable for special, incidental or consequential
damages arising from the breach of warranty, breach of contract, negligence, strict liability
or any other legal theory without limitation: damages for loss of profits or revenue; loss of
use of the Product or any associated equipment or property; equipment, facilities of
services; loss of enjoyment of the Product; or expenses caused by its inoperable condition.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential
damages so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.
8. WARRANTY RIGHTS
This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights that vary
from state to state.
9. THIS IS A LIMITED WARRANT
39
PROGRESSIVTUBE SRCC OG 300 3-WAY SYSTEM
LEGEND
1. Supply Shut Off Valve
2. 3-way Ball Valve
3. 2-way Ball Valve
4. Tempering Valve
5. Boiler Drain
5A
6
A – SOLAR DIRECT
USE ONLY DURING SPRING
THROUGH FALL. FOR
MAXIMUM SAVINGS, SHUT OFF
BREAKER TO ELECTRIC WATER
HEATER.
4
3
5B
1
COLD
MIX
2A
HOT
2B
B – SOLAR PRE-HEAT
FOR NORMAL OPERATION –
CONVENTIONAL WATER HEATER
ALSO ACTS AS BACKUP IF NEEDED.
GOOD FOR YEAR ROUND
OPERATION.
5A
6
4
3
COLD
MIX
2A
HOT
5B
2B
1
5A
4
6
3
5B
1
COLD
MIX
2A
HOT
2B
C – SOLAR BY-PASS
FOR SEVERE WINTER OPERATION
OR OTHER REASONS FOR
COMPLETE SOLAR SHUTDOWN
40
FSEC APPROVED 2-WAY SYSTEMS
SYSTEM PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION
PT-20-CN
PT-30-CN
PT-40-CN
PT-50-CN
PT-20-CN-R
PT-30-CN-R
PT-40-CN-R
PT-50-CN-R
FSEC SECTION:
The following procedures are required for FSEC approved systems:
1. The FSEC Approved Solar Energy System plumbing schematic must be followed when
installing the system.
2. All standards in the FSEC-GP-7-80 must be met.
3. Place the Freeze Protection sticker provided on the conventional water heater in a place
that is noticeable and easy for the homeowner to read. If the sticker is lost or damaged,
type a new one and tape it with clear tape on the tank (completely cover the label with
clear tape to protect it). Label must
4. Place the “Refilling Your Collector” label on the return line boiler drain. If label is
damaged or missing, type a new one on heavy paper stock and seal in clear plastic to
make it waterproof. Attached the label with wire or plastic tie. Label must
follows: (SEE LABEL B)
5. Give homeowner a copy of the Owner’s Manual, FSEC Certifications Warranty and local
phone number of the installing contractor. Go over all operations of the system and how
to obtain warranty service if needed.
read as follows: (SEE LABEL A)
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Electric or Gas Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Electric or Gas Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Electric or Gas Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Electric or Gas Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Tankless Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Tankless Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Tankless Water Heater
ProgressivTube® Integral Collector Storage
with Tankless Water Heater
read as
41
LABEL A:
Freeze Protection Information
The freeze protection method of this system is thermal mass and manual draining. In some areas an
automatic freeze prevention valve may have been installed. This valve will open during freezing
weather and allow a small flow of water. Drain the system as instructed in the Owner’s Manual when
air temperatures of 10°F or below are expected.
LABEL B:
IMPORTANT READ BEFORE REFILLING YOUR COLLECTOR
If you have drained your collector for any reason, it is most important that the collector be vented to
the atmosphere during refilling. Refer to the Owner’s Manual or the directions on the other side of
this tag. Only potable water is to be used in this system
.
WARNING: WATER COULD BE DISCHARGED AT HIGH TEMPERATURE
AND/OR PRESSURE
Open This Valve Before Filling
Place a hose on or a bucket under this drain valve. Open this valve. The collector is now
vented to the atmosphere. Fill the collector. Close this valve when water starts to flow out
of it. It is strongly recommended that you refill your collector in the morning or early evening.
Filling a hot, empty collector without this valve being opened or some other means taken to
vent the collector to the atmosphere could damage your system and void the warranty.
4. Aquamix Anti-Scald Valve 8. P and T Relief Valve
Electric 2-Way System
To Solar
From Solar
5A
Hot Water
Out
Hot Water
Outlet
Closed
COLD
MIX
3
HOT
4
7
Solar By-Pass
6
5B
1
Cold Water
Inlet
8
6
5B
2
Cold Water
Inlet
8
1
Cold W a te r
In
Cold Water
In
Gas 2-Way System
From Solar
5A
Open
3
Hot Water
Out
Hot W a te r
Outlet
Solar Pre-Heat
Gas 2-Way System
From Solar To Sol a r
5A
Closed
Hot Wa te r
Outlet
Hot Wate r
Out
3
Solar By-Pass
To Sola r
6
4
COLD
HOT
MIX
2
7
LEGEND:
6
5B
4
COLD
HOT
MIX
2
Cold Water
Inlet
7
8
5B
Cold Water
Inlet
8
1
1
Cold Water
In
Cold Water
In
Instantaneous Gas 2-Way
System
From Solar
5A
3
4
COLD
HOT
MIX
8
Hot Water
Out
7
Open
Cold Water
Inlet
Solar Pre-Heat
Instantaneous Gas 2-Way
System
From Solar
5A
3
4
Closed
COLD
HOT
MIX
8
Hot W ater
Out
7
Cold Water
Inlet
Solar By-Pass
To Sol a r
6
5B
2
To Sol a r
6
5B
2
Cold Water
1
In
Cold Water
1
In
44
*WOOD SPACED
BLOCK(S) (SIZED TO
FIT SNUGLY BETWEEN
SPANNER & ROOF
SHEATHING – 2 X 4
MIN.)
INSTALLATION DETAILS
Spaced Block With Spanner Mount
PT BASE MOUNT
ROOF SEALANT**
DETAIL Q
SILCONE SEALANT
GALVANIZED WASHER
NEOPRENE WASHER
MOUNTING BLOCK
SHINGLES
SHEATHING
1-10D NAIL
AT EACH
RAFTER
1-8D NAIL AT
EACH SPACER
WASHER
NUT
JAM NUT
FOUR PER UNIT
THREADED THRUBOLT 3/8” MIN.
SPANNER (2” X 4” MIN.
FOR 16” SPAN OR 2” X 6”
MIN. FOR 24” SPAN)
RAFTER
*Spacer Block(s)
1. Spacer blocks should be installed within 1 inch of the thru-bolt.
2. When bolt is within 2” of a rafter only one spacer block will be required on the opposite
side of the bolt, away from the rafter.
3. Two spacer blocks are required when the bolt is more than 2” from the rafter
4. When the mounting clips of adjacent collectors are installed side by side and the thrubolts are 1.5” or more apart, it will be necessary to have at least one spacer block (or
rafter) between bolts.
**Roof Sealant – Required between mounting block and shingles/sheathing. Boltholes shall be
sealed to prevent moisture penetration.
Mounting Blocks
This drawing shows the use of a mounting block to provide the watertight seal between the
mounting hardware and the roof. Metal flashing sheets can be used instead of the mounting
blocks.
45
PT BASE MOUNT
GALVANIZED WASHER
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL R
LAG BOLT MOUNTING
SILICONE SEALANT
MOUNTING BLOCK
**ROOF SEALANT
2” MINIMUM
* FOUR LAG BOLTS 3 X
MINIMUM LENGTH
RAFTER
NEOPRENE WASHER
SHINGLES
SHEATHING
MIN.OF 1.5 TIMES SHANK DIAMETER OF BOLT
*Lead Holes Required – Pre-drill lead holes for the shank at 100% of the shank diameter.
Lead holes for the threads at 60-75% of the shank diameter.
**Roof Sealant – Required between mounting block to and shingles/sheathing. Bolt holes shall
be sealed to prevent moisture penetration. Fill bolthole with sealant prior to inserting bolt.
46
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL S
PITCH POCKET METHOD
PT BASE MOUNT
NEOPRENE WASHER
MOUNTING BLOCK
PITCH CONTINER
**ROOFING CEMENT
1-8D NAIL AT
EACH
SPACER
*WOOD SPACER BLOCK(S) (SIZED TO FIT
SNUGLY BETWEEN SPANNER & ROOF
SHEATHING – 2 X 4 MIN.)
WASHER
NUT
SILICONE SEALANT
GALVANIZED WASHER
SHINGLES
SHEATHING
RAFTER
SPANNER
(2” X 4” MIN. FOR 16”
SPAN OR
2” X 6” MIN. FOR 24”
SPAN).
1-10D NAIL AT EACH RAFTER
FOUR PER UNIT THREADED
THRU-BOLT 3/8” MIN.
JAM NUT
*Spaced Block(s)
1. Spacer blocks should be installed within 1 inch of the thru-bolt.
2. When bolt is within 2” of a rafter only one spacer block will be required on the
opposite side of the bolt, away from the rafter.
3. Two spacer blocks are required when the bolt is more than 2” from the rafter.
4. When the mounting clips of adjacent collectors are installed side by side and the
thru-bolts are 1.5” or more apart, it will be necessary to have at least one spacer
block (or rafter) between bolts.
**Roof Sealant – Required between pitch container and shingles/sheathing and between
surfaces of mounting block and pitch container and mounting block and mounting angle.
Boltholes shall be sealed to prevent moisture penetration.
Mounting Blocks
This drawing shows the use of a mounting block to provide the watertight seal between the
mounting hardware and the roof. Metal flashing sheets can be used instead of the mounting
blocks.
47
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL T
J-BOLT MOUNT
PT BASE MOUNT SILCONE SEALANT
NUT
NEOPRENE WASHER
MOUNTING BLOCK
SHEATHING
ROOF SEALANT
FOUR J-BOLTS (MIN.
OF 3/8”)
3/16”
GALVANIZED WASHER
SHINGLES
RAFTER
3/8” RADIUS (MAX.)
½ “ (MIN.)
SPECIFY MAXIMUM DIMENSION
NOTE:
1. The bent portion of the J-Bolt shall not be threaded.
2. Roof Sealant is required between mounting block and shingles/sheathing. Boltholes
shall be sealed to prevent moisture penetration.
Mounting Blocks
This drawing shows the use of a mounting block to provide the watertight seal between the
mounting hardware and the roof. Metal flashing sheets can be used instead of the mounting
blocks.
48
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL U
CATHEDRAL CEILING
PT BASE MOUNT
SILICONE SEALANT
MOUNTING BLOCK
GALVANIZED WASHER
NEOPRENE WASHER
SHEATHING
SHINGLES
WASHER
ROOF SEALANT
NUT
JAM NUT
RAFTER
2-16D NAILS AT END OF EACH CAT
FOUR PRE UNIT THREADED
THRU-BOLT 3/8” MIN.
CAT, 2” X 4” MIN. IF RAFTERS ARE 2”
X 4”, ONE 2” X 8” SHOULD BE USED
BETWEEN RAFTERS WITH 4-16D NAILS
IN EACH END
NOTE:
Cat(s) must fit tight between rafters.
Mounting Blocks
This drawing shows the use of a mounting block to provide the watertight seal between the
mounting hardware and the roof. Metal flashing sheets can be used instead of the mounting
block.
49
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL W
EXTRA TANK INSULATION
SUPER INSULATION
OUTER SHELL OF
TANK
POWER LINE
THE LOCATION OF THE TANK
MANUFACTURER’S LABEL SHOULD BE
IDENTIFIED ON THE EXTERIOR INSULATION
BY PROVIDING A CUT-AWAY ACCESS SLOT
(LEAVING THE CUT-AWAY IN PLACE) OR BY
NOTING ON THE EXTERIOR WRAP WHERE
MANUFACTURER’S LABEL IS LOCATED.
INSULATION SHALL
NOT COVER THE PT
VALVE OR RESTRICT
ITS OPERATION
INSULATION SHALL NOT COVER THE
ACCESS AREAS TO THE
THERMOSTATS / ELEMENTS
POWER LINE
JUNCTION BOX
SUPER INSULATION
TANK’S OUTER
SHELL
INSULATION SHALL NOT
COVER ENTRANCE LEAD WIRE
OR THE TANK’S ELECTRICAL
JUNCTION BOX COVER.
OPTION:
If a junction box is installed on the outer shell of the tank, the super insulation shall be installed
up to the box but not covering it.
NOTE:
1.
2. Interior wiring must be rated for the expected temperatures.
3. Power line (service wiring) shall be rated equal to or greater than #10 AWG type NM
4. Thermostat set point shall not exceed 120°F.
Tanks shall be completely wrapped using an insulation blanket with a vapor barrier and
with cutaway sections as shown above.
cable. (Assumes 4500-watt element(s) in electric water heater).
50
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL X
FLUSH PIPE PENETRATION
GROMMET
¾” 90 “L” SHORT RADIUS
SOLDER
1-1/4” TO 1-1/2”
CAP
ROOF SEALANT
FLASHING
The following technique is used when it is desirable to have the inlet and outlet piping as close
to the collector as possible. It is usually used when the collector is installed flush to a roof, as in
tile roof installations.
Sweat a ¾” copper 90° short radius “L” directly onto the inlet and outlet connections of the
collector. Protect the collector’s rubber pipe grommets from the soldering torch flame and heat
with a wet rag or some other heat shield device. The roof Jack flashing for the pipe might have
to be trimmed so as not to interfere with the collector and its watertight sealing strip.
51
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL Y
SOLAR DIRECT WITH BACK-UP
SOLAR PRE-HEAT
SOLAR DIRECT
TO SOLAR FROM SOLAR
TO SOLAR FROM SOLAR
MIXING
HOT OUT
HOT OUTLET COLD INLET
HOT
COLD
MIX
3-WAY BALL
COLD IN
ON/OFF
SWITCH FOR
ELECTRIC
ELEMENTS
MIXING
HOT OUT
HOT OUTLET COLD INLET
HOT
MIX
COLD
3-WAY BALL
COLD IN
ON/OFF
SWITCH FOR
ELECTRIC
ELEMENTS
INSTALLATION DETAILS
DETAIL Z
INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPAIRING A TANK LEAK
In the unlikely event that a leak should develop in a P
ROGRESSIVTUBE
below should be followed to ensure a successful repair. Consult the factory if the leak is
believer to be caused by a defect in the unit.
1. Repairs should be performed in the morning hours before the sun can heat the tank. It
is best to pick a morning when there is no wind to interfere with the removal of the glass
or the inner glazing layer of Teflon film.
2. Drain the unit and disconnect the supply and return piping from the inlet and outlet
connections.
3. Remove the screws in the glass glazing cap strips on the top of the collector.
4. Carefully lift the glass out of the unit with the gasket still in place around the glass. If the
gasket slips off the glass, simply push it back into place. Place the glass in a secure
location so it will not be damaged.
5. Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill out the four #48 aluminum rivets that hold the Teflon film frame
in place. Be careful of the Teflon, it is only 1 mil thick and can be easily punctured.
®
collector, the instructions
52
Carefully lift out the Teflon frame and place in a secure location. Caution: Even a slight
breeze can turn the frame into a sail.
6. Remove the stainless steel rod that crosses over the top of the tank securing the two
framewalls together. This rod is part of the unit’s high wind load reinforcement.
7. The tank can now be removed by lifting up the end opposite of the inlet and outlet
connections and pulling it until the inlet/outlet connections clear the insulation inside the
frame. Be careful not to scratch the black finish of the tank.
8. Locate the leak and repair it using 95/5 solder or equal. Cover the leak area with a
generous amount of solder.
9. Replace the tank by pushing the inlet and outlet connections through the holes in the
insulation and out the frame. Allow the tank to drop into place.
10. Re-attach the stainless steel rod. It may be helpful to push in on the center of the frame
until the locknut has been secured to the rod. Do not over tighten or the glass will not fit
into place.
11. Replace the Teflon film frame and rivet it into place. If rivets are not available, use #8
self-threading screws.
12. Replace the glass and its gasket. Make sure it fits evenly all the way around the frame.
13. Replace the glass caps. Apply pressure on the screws when tightening to ensure good
compression on the gasket. This will make a good watertight seal.
14. Re-attach the supply and return piping.
53
TYPICAL ROOF BRACING
The following drawings are suggested techniques for roof structure bracing. These are not
engineer certified drawings and all suggested bracing in these drawings are intended to be used
with structurally sound roofs. Individual installations may require additional bracing. The
contractor should follow acceptable carpentry and construction techniques if additional
measures are needed. If the contractor has any questions or concerns then a structural
engineer should be consulted.
SIDE VIEW – MOUNT
PARALLEL TO RAFTERS
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT 3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT
2” X 4” X 48” NOMINAL STRINGER
ROOF 3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
ROOF BEAM
TYPICAL ROOF BRACING
FOR 24” SPACED RAFTERS
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT
ROOF BEAM ROOF
2” X 4” X 48” NOMINAL
STRINGER
54
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT
SIDE VIEW – MOUNT
PARALLEL TO RAFTERS
3/8” X 4” LAG
BOLT
2” X 4” X 48” NOMINAL STRINGER
3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT 3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT
ROOF
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
ROOF BEAM
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT
2” X 4” X 48” NOMINAL STRINGER
ROOF
ROOF BEAM
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
3/8” X 3” LAG BOLT
55
SUGGESTED ROOF BRACING
FOR CATHEDRAL CEILINGS
AND OTHER WIDE RAFTER
SPANS
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
SIMPSON U44 HANGER
ROOF
48”
4” X 4” PURLIN
SIMPSON U44 HANGER
3/8” X 4” LAG BOLT
ROOF BEAM
3/8” X 12” LAG BOLT
3/8” X 5” LAG BOLT
ROOF
4” X 4” PURLIN
ROOF BEAM
2” X 4” X 6” TREATED WOOD BLOCK
96” MAX.
3/8” X 12” LAG BOLT
48”
56
YOUR NOTES
57
101 Copeland Street
Jacksonville, Florida 32204
Tel: 904-358-3720
Fax: 904-358-3728
www.tctsolar.com
techsupport@tctsolar.com
Rev. 6/2008
58
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