
Automatic Taper
1380 Beverage Drive, Suite W
Stone Mountain, GA 30083
1-800-426-6256 | 770-243-2323
BUTT RING
Operation and Maintenance Guide
Better – Faster – Every time
Model: 04TT
Updated 01 2014
Increase resistance
Decrease resistance
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ADJUSTABLE BRAKE LEVER
© 2014 TapeTech Tool Co. All Rights Reserved

Automatic Taper
1380 Beverage Drive, Suite W
Stone Mountain, GA 30083
1-800-426-6256 | 770-243-2323
Operation and Maintenance Guide
Better – Faster – Every time
Model: 04TT
Updated 01 2014
www.tapetech.com
© 2014 TapeTech Tool Co. All Rights Reserved

Automatic Taper
1380 Beverage Drive, Suite W
Stone Mountain, GA 30083
1-800-426-6256 | 770-243-2323
Model: 04TT
Operation and Maintenance Guide
Better – Faster – Every time
Operation
The automatic taper simultaneously applies tape and joint compound to any joint: walls,
corners, and ceilings. It automatically dispenses the correct amount of joint compound
under the tape, regardless of the tool user’s speed.
The automatic taper uses tape 2 1/16” to 2 ⅛” (52-54 mm) wide. Wider tape will not fit and
narrower tape will have a tendency to jam. Install the tape by removing the tape bail (retaining
wire) and placing the roll of tape on the spindle with the tape unwinding clockwise as you look at
the roll. Feed the tape through the tape guide with the back side of the tape facing down. When
correctly installed, the tape will curl over the drive wheel.
Fill the automatic taper with joint compound using the EasyClean® Loading Pump and the gooseneck
assembly. Be sure that the gate control lever is in the closed position. Place the automatic taper on the
gooseneck with the filler attachment firmly seated against the nylon seal and move the EasyClean® Pump
handle to transfer joint compound from the pail to the automatic taper. Keep the joint compound bucket
full to avoid air being pumped into the taper. To avoid overfilling the taper, place your fingers in the open
end of the tube while filling. Stop pumping when the piston reaches your fingers (approximately 9 pumps
when empty). After loading the automatic taper, stand it on end and move the gate valve control lever to
engage the drive mechanism. Now turn the key, located on the drive gear sprocket, until the joint
compound covers the leading edge of the joint tape. This is necessary after each loading.
The automatic taper should be held with one hand on the control tube and the other hand at the bottom
of the mud tube.
Start taping with butt joints first and then sidewall and ceiling flat joints. For ceilings, use both drive
wheels for the first 4 - 6 inches (100-150 mm) of tape to secure it to the ceiling, then tilt the automatic
taper toward you at a slight angle leaving only one drive wheel on the drywall surface. Walk backwards,
leading with the head of the tool.
To tape vertical joints, place the taper at the bottom of the joint, parallel to and slightly above the floor.
Lead with the head of the taper, as soon as possible to make tracking easier. Remember to roll with only
one wheel in contact with the wall until about 3 inches (75 mm) from the top. Stop completely, cut the
tape, by pulling the control tube toward you, and roll to the end of the joint on both wheels. To start the
next joint, move the drive wheels lightly against the surface of the wall, starting the compound flow while
advancing a new end of the tape with the control tube.
To tape horizontal joints, advance the joint compound and about 1 ½ inches (40 mm) of tape by pushing
forward on the control tube while rolling the drive wheels on the wall. Place drive wheels on the wall and
roll along the joint. Stop about 2 ½ inches (60 mm) from the end of the joint and cut the tape. Roll out the
last 2 ½ inches (60 mm) of tape while feeding tape with the control tube. This will apply compound to the
beginning of the tape for the next joint.
Updated 01 2014
www.tapetech.com
© 2014 TapeTech Tool Co. All Rights Reserved

Automatic Taper
1380 Beverage Drive, Suite W
Stone Mountain, GA 30083
1-800-426-6256 | 770-243-2323
Operation and Maintenance Guide
Better – Faster – Every time
To tape inside angle joints, both wheels must run in contact with the adjacent wall surfaces, bisecting the
angle with the automatic taper. Tracking must be in a straight line with the creaser wheel extended, using
the trigger located near the trailing end of the automatic taper. The extended creaser wheel secures the
tape to the angle and eases the rolling operation. Avoid twisting the taper as you move along the angle to
insure that you bisect the angle correctly. Operating the taper at a 45 degree angle to the joint, as soon
as it is practical, will aid in the prevention of the tape “creeping”.
Maintenance
This tool must be washed with a brush and water (or a water hose) after each use. Pay close attention
that all joint compound is flushed from under the cover plate and the tape advance mechanism.
Complete the clean-up by lightly oiling all wear points. Use Ames® Bazooka® Oil or any light machine oil.
Adjustable Brake
The amount of resistance on the main wheel brake is adjustable by moving the lever shown in the illustration on
page 1. Adjusting the lever upward (as oriented in the illustration) will increase the amount of resistance on the
brake, adjusting it downward will decrease the amount of resistance.
Blade Replacement
1. Hold the key ring, pull down and turn key ring 90 degrees. Let the key ring slide into the cutter spring tube.
2. Pull the cutter chain until cutter block and blade are clearly in view.
3. Loosen the cutter block screw and remove the used blade.
4. Insert a new blade. Tighten the screw; make sure blade does not protrude through bottom of the cutter block.
5. Pull the cutter block back into the taper head channel.
6. Pull the key ring down to the end of the spring tube. Turn it 90 degrees and lock it into the original position.
7. Pull down on the control tube to make sure the blade travels freely through the taper head channel.
Cable Replacement
1. Remove all the joint compound from the automatic taper.
2. Unscrew the butt ring from the bottom of the taper tube. Lightly tap tube butt ring with a screwdriver, if
necessary.
3. Remove the cover plate by turning the large screw counterclockwise. The screw will not come out of the plate.
Gently pull the cover plate up and out to remove it. Close the gate valve and force the piston down with a thin piece
of wood or a flattened piece of corner bead.
4. Loosen the screw on the cable drum and remove the end of the cable from the drum.
5. Remove the cable from the piston by removing the nut from the slotted stud.
6. Clean the slotted stud of any joint compound, then thread the cable through the nut while holding it, and place
the end of the cable into the slot. Screw the nut onto the slotted stud and tighten, to secure the cable to the piston.
7. Drop the loose end of the cable into the tube followed by the piston. Replace the butt ring and the screws.
8. Make sure the slot in the cable drum is clean and insert the loose end of the cable and tighten the screw.
9. Wind the cable onto the cable drum by turning the drum key clockwise.
10. Replace the cover plate and tighten all screws.
Gooser Needle Replacement
Holding onto the gooser needle assembly, loosen the screw and remove the gooser needle. Slide the entire gooser
assembly to the bottom of the tape guide. Push the new gooser needle through the hole and out the bottom so
that the point of the needle protrudes 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) through the tape in the slide. Hold the support assembly
and tighten the screw. Insert tape through the tape guide and check for proper advancement of the tape.
Updated 01 2014
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© 2014 TapeTech Tool Co. All Rights Reserved