Synergy 8024-30, 8024-40 User Manual

SYNERGY MFG. 870 INDUSTRIAL WAY, SAN LUIS OBISPO, CA [phone]

8024 / 8044 JEEP JK SYNERGY STAGE 4
SUSPENSION SYSTEM

Version 3

GENERAL NOTES:

• These instructions are also available on our website; www.synergymfg.com.

Check the website before you begin for any updated instructions and additional
photos for your reference.

• The installation of this suspension kit requires some major cutting, grinding and

drilling. Many of the major suspension brackets on the frame will need to be cut
off and ground smooth. A plasma cutter or oxy-acetylene torch works best but
you can also use a grinder with a cut off wheel.

• Installation requires trimming of the rear track bar bracket and shock brackets

with either a grinder with a cut off wheel or sawzall.

• You will need basic hand tools, a drill with 3/8” and 1/2”, and 9/16” drill bits, a

grinder with cut off wheel or sawzall, floor jack or automobile lift, and two sturdy
jack stands to complete this installation.

• A list of additional components that can be added to this kit are available on our

website. These components can be purchased and installed at a later date. Each
component has instructions for installation.

• Removal of the fuel tank is required for removal of the passenger rear lower

control arm bracket and to access the rear control arm bracket nut tab.

• For Non-Rubicon models, we recommend installation of 8077 - JK Front Sway

Bar Quick Disconnect Kit for removal of front sway bar links to increase
suspension articulation while off road.

• The stock tires and wheels will not fit once the suspension system is installed due

to the draglink tie rod end and rear sway bar link interference. Wheels with less
offset or wheel spacers must be used.

• We recommend that you upgrade to conventional double cardon CV style drive

shafts during or soon after the suspension installation. The large diameter front
drive shaft will rub on the automatic transmission pan and the CV boots will tear
prematurely due to the increased operating angle caused by the suspension lift,
especially 2 door rear drive shafts and 2 or 4 door front drive shafts.

1. Unpack the suspension components from boxes, verify that all parts are intact and in
good condition.

Synergy Stage 4 Parts List

8030 - Rear Control Arm Frame Brackets (Pair)
8031 - Front Control Arm Frame Brackets (Pair)
8033 - Front Lower Control Arms (Pair)
8035 - Front Upper Control Arms (Pair)
8036 - Rear Lower Control Arms (Pair)
8038 – Rear Upper Control Arms (Pair)
8063-XX - Front Coil Springs (Pair)

8064-XX - Rear Coil Springs (Pair)
8059 - JK Front Sway Bar Links (Pair)
8060 - JK Rear Sway Bar Links (Pair)
80XX - Front Bump Stop Spacers (Pair)
80XX - Rear Bump Stop Spacers (Pair)
8055 - Front Track Bar Bracket
8056 - Rear Track Bar Bracket
8001 - High Steer Drag Link Kit
8066 - Front Brake Line Kit
8066 - Rear Brake Line Kit
8074 - Rear Lower Shock Mounts (Pair)

2. Read all the following steps before beginning installation. If you do not have the

proper tools or ability to install the components properly do not attempt installation.
Find a creditable, local shop to do the installation work.

FRONT SUSPENSION

3. REMOVE STOCK PARTS

a) Disconnect the front track bar at the axle bracket. It is easiest to do this when the

suspension is at the ride height position. If you are replacing the track bar with an
adjustable one you can completely remove the front track bar.

b) Remove the automatic transmission skid plate if equipped.
c) Use a floor jack under the center of front axle to lift the tires off the ground.

Place jack stands under each frame rail adjacent to the transmission cross member
to support the weight of the Jeep. Raise or lower the floor jack under the front
axle to remove and install suspension components. The jack should stay under
the axle the entire time the front suspension is being installed.

d) Now remove these suspension components and retain the hardware in this order

• Front Wheel/Tires

• Sway bar links

• Steering stabilizer

• Shocks

• Drag link; remove the bent end from the steering knuckle and unthread the

draglink with the adjuster sleeve from the inner tie rod, you can leave the
inner tie rod attached to the pitman arm.

• Lower the axle and remove the springs, make sure the wheel speed sensors

wires are not overextended, loosen any retaining clips if needed to allow
enough slack.

4. INSTALL BRAKE LINES.

a) Remove the stock brake lines from the frame hard line connection and brake

caliper, install the new brake lines with the new banjo washers. Install the frame
bracket as shown.

Figure 4-1

b) The same brake line is used at all 4 corners, once the brake line is installed at the

caliper you can slightly bend the 90 bent tube end of the brake line at the caliper
toward the frame similar to the stock brake line.

Figure 4-2

c) Wait until the rear brake lines are installed to bleed the brakes.

5. REMOVE STOCK FRONT CONTROL ARM BRACKETS

a) Remove the stock upper and lower control arms. The exhaust on the passenger

side frame mount prevents the upper control arm bolt from being removed in one
piece. You will have to cut the head of the bolt off to remove the bolt. A sawzall
or grinder with a cut off wheel works well.

b) Cut off the inner part of the lower control arm bracket.

c) Using a cut-off wheel, cut the outer part of the lower control arm bracket as

shown below. Be careful to not cut through the frame.

d) Grind the cut edge off of the remaining part of the lower control arm bracket on

the inner frame. Do not remove this section of the factory lower control arm
bracket. You need retain the two layers of brackets welded to the frame for the
proper spacing of the new control arm brackets.

e) Cut off the upper control arm mount from the frame

f) Remove the threaded inserts for the transmission skid plate. These are located on

the bottom of the frame just to the rear of the stock lower control arm brackets.
Thread the skid plate bolts into the threaded inserts so there is about a ½” of
thread showing. Strike the head of the bolt upward with a large hammer to break
the threaded insert loose from the frame. Remove the threaded insert and bolt.

g) Clean and paint the frame where the control arm brackets were removed

6. INSTALL NEW FRONT LONG ARM CONTROL ARM BRACKETS

a) Insert the lower nut tab in the frame

b) Remove the nuts from the transmission cross member bolts (1). Make sure the

nuts are on the front side of the cross member, if not, flip the cross member
bolts around.

c) Position the new control arm bracket over the transmission cross member bolts.

Install the ½” flat head allen screws in the bottom of the control arm bracket to
the nut tab. Tighten just enough to bring the control arm bracket to the bottom of
the frame

d) Install the nuts to the transmission cross member bolts, loosely tighten to bring the

control arm bracket against the front of the transmission cross member.

e) Insert the side nut tab through the rectangular hole in the control arm bracket and

frame. Secure the tab with (2) ½” bolts with flat washers.

f) Tighten all the hardware for the control arm brackets to 90 ft-lbs

7. INSTALL LOWER CONTROL ARMS

a) Trim the top of the axle bracket as shown for clearance for the new arms.

Figure 5-1

b) Preset the length of the lower control arms to 31 5/8” center to center of the

bushing by turning the adjuster sleeve. This is just a starting measurement, final
control arm length with be set during the alignment. Turn the Johnny joint so that
the grease fitting is adjacent to the adjuster pinch bolt. Make sure the left and
right control arms are the same length.

c) Install the new control arms with the bend upward and inward, away from the tire

and ground. Use the original factory bolts. The left and right arms are different
so make sure they are on the correct side. The bushing goes at the axle end and
the Johnny Joint goes at the frame end with the pinch bolt and grease zerk on the
top.

d) Hand tighten the control arm bolts, wait until the end of the installation and the

jeep is sitting at ride height before you torque these bolts.

8. INSTALL FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARMS

a) Preset the length of the upper control arms to 25” center to center of the bushing

by turning the adjuster sleeve. This is just a starting measurement, final control
arm length with be set during the alignment. Make sure the left and right control
arms are the same length.

b) Install the new control arms with the flex joint at the frame end and the adjustable

end at the axle. Position the arms so the pinch bolt is on top of the control arm.
Reuse the factory mounting bolts at the axle end; use the new ½ bolts, washer and
nuts at the new frame brackets. Use a washer under the head of the bolt but not
under the nut.

c) Hand tighten the control arm bolts, wait until the end of the installation and the

jeep is sitting at ride height before you torque these bolts.

9. INSTALL FRONT TRACK BAR RELOCATION BRACKET

a) Position the new track bar relocation bracket over the stock track bar bracket as

shown in Figure 9-1. Secure the bracket to the axle using the supplied 9/16 x 3”
bolt and spacer, the spacer goes where the track bar was located in the stock
bracket. There are 3 cylindrical spacers included with this kit, use the shorter one
for this step. Use a washer under the head of the bolt and under the toplock nut.
Do not tighten this nut at this time; wait until all the other hardware is installed.
See Figure 9-2.

Figure 9-1 Figure 9-2

b) Install the (2) 3/8 x 1” bolts in the track bar relocation bracket on either side of the

9/16” bolt, use a flat washer under the bolt head and under the nut, then secure
with a toplock nut.

c) Install one of the 1.5” long spacers between the stock sway bar tab and the side of

the track bar relocation bracket in the lower hole with a ½ x 3” bolt and top-lock
nut; use a washer under the bolt head and nut. See Figure 9-3

Figure 9-3

d) Install the u-bolt over the axle tube and through the track bar relocation bracket,

use a flat washer and nylock nut to secure the u-bolt.

e) Once all the hardware is installed in the track bar relocation bracket you can begin

to torque all the hardware. Torque the 9/16 bolt to 150 ft-lbs, the ½” bolts to 90
ft-lbs, and the 3/8” bolts and u-bolt to 40 ft-lbs. Wait until the jeep is sitting at
right height to attach the track bar.

10. INSTALL STEERING STABILIZER

a) The track bar relocation bracket also allows you to relocate the steering stabilizer

to the top of the tie rod.

b) Loosen the u-bolts on the tie rod steering stabilizer bracket and rotate it to the top

of the tie rod as shown in Figure 10-1. Tighten the u-bolts when finished. Attach
the large end of the steering stabilizer to the tie rod bracket.

c) Attach the shaft end of the steering stabilizer to the track bar relocation bracket

using the factory nut and bolt and a ½ washer between the bushing and the track
bar relocation bracket. See Figure 10-2

d) Tighten both steering stabilizer mounting bolts to 60 ft-lbs.

Figure 10-1 Figure 10-2

11. INSTALL DRAGLINK

a) You have two options for flipping the draglink to the top of the knuckle, 1) Ream

the tapered hole from the top if you have the correct tie rod end reamer (1 ½” per
ft) or 2) Purchase the tie rod flip adapter (800102-01) and drill the steering arm to
a 13/16” straight hole.

b) Using the tapered reamer and a hand drill, ream the factory steering knuckle from

the top to a diameter of .750”, measured to the large end (top) of the taper.

c) If using the flip adapter, drill the steering arm tie rod hole thru with a 7/8” drill bit

Figure 11-1, insert the adapter into the hole from the top Figure 11-2.

d) Coat the threads of the un-bent end of the new draglink liberally with anti-seize

and thread onto the factory pitman arm tie rod end. Leave about 1” of thread
exposed on the tie rod end. If the tie rod is difficult to install, you can wedge the
pinch bolt tube open using a chisel or similar tool.

e) Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle hole from the top. Use the supplied

boot and castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to 50 ft-lbs or more to align the cotter
pin hole. Insert cotter pin and bend the ends over.

f) Align the draglink so the bend is flat and towards the front. See Figure 11-3

Tighten the pinch bolt on the pitman arm tie rod end to 50 ft-lbs. Wait to tighten
the adjuster sleeve pinch bolt until the steering wheel is centered during
alignment.

Figure 11-1

Figure 11-2

Figure 11-3

12. INSTALL BUMPSTOP SPACERS AND COIL SPRINGS

a) Locate and center punch the center of the bumpstops strike pad on the axle coil

spring mounts. Drill a 3/8” hole.

b) Put the bump stop bolt though the bump stop and slide the bump stop into the

bottom of the coil spring.

c) Install the coil spring while holding the bump stop inside the coil. When the coil

is in place, align the bump stop bolt with the hole that was drilled. Install the
bump stop bolt through the hole and the 3/8” serrated nut onto the bump stop bolt.
Hand tighten the nut and then use a 5/16” allen wrench through the coil spring to
tighten the bump stop bolt.

13. INSTALL SHOCKS

a) Install the shocks using the stock lower mounting nut/bolt. Use the new stem

bushings, washers and nuts.

b) Tighten the lower bolts to 56 ft-lbs
c) Install the thicker of the two upper stem bushing nuts and tighten until the bushing

begins to bulge out. Install and tighten the jam nut.

14. INSTALL SWAY BAR LINKS

a) Install the driver side anti-way bar relocation bracket using a 1.5”spacer and ½” x

3” bolt and top-lock nut; use a washer under the bolt-head and nut.

Figure 14-1

b) Run a 1/2” drill bit or reamer through each side of the stock sway bar holes to

enlarge the holes for the new rod end studs.

Figure 14-2

c) Make sure the sway bar end links are the same length by adjusting the rod ends.
d) Install the sway bar link rod ends to the sway bar as shown in Figure 14-1, tighten

to 60 ft-lbs.

e) Install the driver side sway bar link to the sway bar relocation bracket using the

stock nut/bolt as shown in Figure 14-1. Torque the lower sway bar nut/bolts to 75
ft-lbs.

f) Install the passenger side sway bar links in the side of the track bar bracket using

the stock nut/bolt. See Figure 14-3

g) If you do not want to relocate the sway bar links to the higher hole you can install

the sway bar link in place of the spacer on the passenger side and eliminate the
relocation bracket on the driver side. Make sure that the sway bar links and sway
bar do not go past strait when the axle is at full droop and that the sway bar links
do not contact the drag link.

Figure 14-3

15. INSTALL TIRES AND WHEELS AND REMOVE FROM JACKSTANDS

• Raise the front axle with the floor jack and install the tires and wheels.

• Remove the jack stands supporting the frame and lower the axle so wheels are

back on the ground

• Attach the track bar to the track bar relocation bracket using the original bolt.

You can have a helper turn the steering wheel to align the track bar bushing to the
mounting bracket hole. Wait to torque this bolt until the end of the suspension
installation.

• The installation of the front suspension is complete except for the steering wheel

alignment and final torque of the control arms and track bar. You may want to
wait until the rear is finished because you will be using similar tools and torque
settings for both.

REAR SUSPENSION

16. REMOVE STOCK PARTS

a) Disconnect the rear track bar at the axle bracket. It is easiest to do this when the

suspension is at the ride height position, if you are installing an adjustable track
bar, completely remove the track bar.

b) Use a floor jack under the center of axle to lift the tries off the ground. Place jack

stands under each frame rail just in front of the lower control arm brackets to
support the weight of the Jeep. Raise or lower the floor jack under the rear axle to
remove and install the suspension components. The jack should stay under the
axle the entire time the rear suspension is being installed.

c) Now remove these suspension components and retain the hardware in this order

• Rear Wheel/Tires

• Sway bar links

• Shocks

• Lower the axle and remove the springs, make sure the wheel speed sensors

wires are not overextended, loosen any retaining clips if needed to allow
enough slack

17. INSTALL BRAKE LINES

a) Remove the stock brake lines from the frame hard line connection and brake

caliper, install the new brake lines with the new banjo washers. Install the frame
bracket as shown.

Figure 17-1

b) The same brake line is used at all 4 corners, once the brake line is installed at the

caliper you can slightly bend the 90 bent tube end of the brake line at the caliper
toward the frame similar to the stock brake line.

Figure 17-2

c) You can now bleed the brake system.

18. REMOVE STOCK REAR CONTROL ARM BRACKETS

a) Remove the stock upper and lower control arms.
b) Remove the fuel tank. You must remove the fuel tank to remove the passenger

rear lower control arm bracket and to access the inner wall of the frame to install
one of the nut tabs. Refer to the factory service manual for the exact procedure.

c) Using a cut-off wheel, cut the sides of the lower control arm bracket as shown

below. Cut just below the welds on the frame. Be careful to not cut through the
frame. Cut the weld on the front of the control arm bracket on the bottom of the
frame.

d) Cut off the upper control arm bracket as shown below

e) Trim the bottom of the rear body mount. Leave about 1 1/8” from the top surface

of the body mount to cut edge.

f) Grind the welds and smooth where you removed the control arm brackets and

body mount. The side and bottom where the new control arm bracket is located
needs to be smooth, the inside of the frame and the upper control arm bracket do
not need to be completely cleaned off.

g) Remove the threaded insert for the gas tank bracket just in front of the lower

control arm bracket. Use the same procedure as in step 5-f.

h) Cut off the mounting tab on the gas tank skid that is located just in front of the

lower control arm bracket.

19. INSTALL REAR CONTROL ARM BRACKETS

a) Remove the two body mount nuts and the large center body mount bolt. Position

the new control arm bracket over the body mount studs. Reinstall the nuts onto
the body mount studs and tighten.

b) Using the control arm bracket as a guide, mark and drill the frame for the control

arm bracket mounting bolts. Use at least a 9/16 drill bit

c) Cut a rectangular hole in the frame on the driver side, similar to the hole on the

passenger, you can use the control arm bracket as a guide. A round hole cut with
a hole saw will also work, this is just for access to the front nut tab and to install
the lower nut tab.

d) Clean, debur and paint the frame where the stock brackets were removed
e) Insert the front and lower nut tabs through the rectangular hole in the frame. Refer

the picture below for the nut tab orientation. The rear nut tab must be accessed
through an existing hole on the inside of the frame.

f) Reinstall the control arm bracket to the body mount studs and tighten the body

mount nuts to 40 ft-lbs

g) Install the ½” bolts with washers in the control arm bracket into the nut tabs.

Tighten the control arm bracket bolts to 90 ft-lbs.

h) Trim the large washer under the body mount bolt to clear the upper control arm

joint. Install the large body mount bolt and torque to 80 ft-lbs

19. INSTALL LOWER CONTROL ARMS

a) Pre-preset the length of the lower control arms to 31 5/8”. Turn the Johnny joint

so that the grease fitting is adjacent to the adjuster pinch bolt.

b) Install the new control arms with the bend upward and inward. The bushing goes

at the axle end and the Johnny Joint goes at the frame end with the pinch bolt and
grease zerk on the top. Reuse the factory mounting bolts. Hand tighten the
control arm bolts, wait until the end of the installation and the jeep is sitting at
ride height before you torque these bolts.

20. INSTALL UPPER CONTROL ARMS

a) Preset the length of the upper control arms to 26 3/8”. The final length will be

determined when the jeep is sitting on the springs and tires to get the pinion at the
correct angle.

b) Install the new control arms with the bend inward toward the frame. The bend is

for tire clearance. The adjustable end goes at the frame end and the fixed end
Joint goes at the axle end with the pinch bolt and grease zerk on the bottom.
Reuse the factory mounting bolt at the axle end with the new 9/16 bolt at the
frame bracket.

c) Tighten and torque both upper control arm bolts to 125 ft-lbs and the pinch bolt to

50 ft-lbs when final adjustment is done.

21. INSTALL BUMPSTOP SPACERS

• Install the new rear bump stop spacers. The bump stop spacers should be oriented

so they angle forward. Use a washer under the head of the 3/8 bolts and use the
serrated nut on the bottom. Tighten to 30 ft-lbs

22. INSTALL REAR TRACK BAR RELOCATION BRACKET

a) Cut part of the factory track bar off as shown in the following pictures. The

pictures are shown using a 4 ½” grinder with a cut off wheel, but a sawzall can
also be used.

b) Attach the new track bar relocation bracket to the factory bracket as shown with
the new 9/16” bolt and lock nut; use a flat washer under the bolt head and lock nut.
d) Install the u-bolts over the axle tube and through the track bar relocation bracket,

use a flat washer and nylock nut to secure the u-bolt.

e) Torque the 9/16 bolt to 150 ft-lbs, and the 3/8” u-bolts to 40 ft-lbs
f) Wait until the vehicle is sitting at ride height to attach the track bar.

22. INSTALL LOWER SHOCK RELOCATION BRACKETS AND SWAY BAR

LINKS

a) Cut off the factory lower shock brackets using a grinder with a cut off wheel or a

sawzall. Grind the weld smooth.

Figure 22-1 Figure 22-2

b) The rear lower shock relocation bracket position can vary depending on the

combination of the bump stop spacer height, shock length and control arm length.
We recommend that you cycle the suspension to correctly position the new lower
shock brackets to optimize your suspension travel. If you are using these shock
relocation brackets with the Synergy suspension system the following table will
help you determine which set of holes in the shock relocation bracket to use
without cycling the suspension. These hole positions are based on using the
Synergy 8068 rear shocks, 8058 (3”) or 8076 (4”) rear bump stop spacers and our
recommended rear upper and lower control arm lengths. If you are using
anything other than this combination of parts, you should cycle the rear
suspension to get the correct lower shock bracket position.

c) Remove the jounce bumpers but leave any bump stop extension brackets

installed. Jack the rear axle up to compress the suspension until the bump stop
spacer hits the metal cup that holds the jounce bumpers. This should be the
highest the rear axle and suspension will travel. See Figure 22-1.

d) Install the new shock to the upper mount.
e) Using the factory shock bolts, attach the shock relocation brackets to the bottom

bushing of the shock.

f) Compress the shock and position the bracket on the back of the lower control arm

bracket to determine which set of holes to use. See Figure 22-1.

Figure 22-1

g) Once the shock bracket position is determined you can cut the bottom of the lower

control arm bracket off flush with the bottom of the shock brackets. Remove the
shock brackets and shocks. A sawzall works well for this, you can cut off the

SHOCK RELOCATION BRACKET HOLE POSITION USING

17.25” COLLAPSED SHOCK LENGTH, FITS 3-4.5” LIFT

APPLICATION
(PINION ANGLE)

3” TALL BUMP­STOP SPACER

4” TALL BUMP­STOP SPACER

STOCK DS (5°)

TOP HOLES

MIDDLE HOLES

4 DR CV (10°)

TOP HOLES

MIDDLE HOLES

2 DR CV (15°)

MIDDLE HOLES

BOTTOM HOLES

whole lower section of the bracket with one cut. Do not cut off the anti-sway bar
link tabs.

h) Install the lower shock relocation brackets, use the supplied 3/8 x 1” bolts to

attach the shock bracket to the rear lower control arm bracket. Use flat washers
under the bolt heads and use flange nuts on the inside of the lower control arm
bracket. The lower nuts are easy to get to but the uppers can be difficult, the easy
way is to put the flange nut in the end of a box end wrench and slide the nut up
the inside of the lower control arm bracket and align it with the hole. Use the
factory anti-sway bar link bolts to attach the side of the bracket to the anti-sway
bar link tabs. Insert these bolts from the outside so the nut is against the shock
bracket. Torque the lower sway bar bolts to 75 ft-lbs

23. INSTALL COIL SPRINGS, SHOCKS AND SWAY BAR LINKS

b) Install the new coil springs. If you have rotated the pinion up for a CV driveline,

we recommend that you cut, rotate and re-weld the lower coil spring mount on the
axle to align level or purchase coil spring angled wedges.

c) Jack the axle up enough to install the shocks using the original hardware, torque

the upper bar pin bolts to 37 ft-lbs and the lower bolt and nut to 56 ft-lbs.

d) Make sure the sway bar links are adjusted to the same length and tighten the jam

nut. Install the upper end of the sway bar links to the sway bar. If the rod end
stud does not fit through the sway bar you will have to enlarge the holes with a ½”
drill. Tighten the nut to 66 ft-lbs

21. FINAL INSTALLATION STEPS

a) Jack the rear axle up enough to install the tires and wheels.
b) Remove the jack stands under the frame and lower the jeep to the ground.
c) Attach the track bar to the new track bar relocation bracket using the factory nut

and bolt. If the track bar does not line up with the hole you can have someone
push the back of vehicle from side to side to align the track bar bushing to the
hole in the bracket.

d) Now that he vehicle is sitting at ride height on level ground you can do the final

fastener torque

e) Torque the front and rear lower control arm bolts to 125 ft-lbs and pinch bolts to

50 ft-lbs

f) Torque the front upper control arm bolts to 90 ft-lbs and pinch bolts to 50 ft-lbs
g) Torque the front and rear track bar bolts to 125 ft-lbs
h) Torque the lug nuts to 85-125 ft-lbs.
i) Bleed the brake system if you have not already done it.
j) If you have rotated the pinion up we recommend that you add one addition quart

of gear lube in the rear differential to supply the front pinion bearing with gear
lube. You can buy an aftermarket diff cover with a higher fill plug or unscrew the
breather fitting in the axle tube and add the additional gear lube through there.

k) Adjust the draglink to center the steering wheel by using the adjuster sleeve on the

passenger side tie rod end (steering knuckle end). This requires a 1 ¼” wrench.
Tighten the pinch bolt to 50 ft-lbs.

l) If the steering wheel is not centered the ESP light will come on, so make sure you

adjust the draglink so the steering wheel is perfectly centered. This is can
accomplished by test driving and making the necessary adjustments. When
driving in a strait line take note of which way the steering wheel needs to turn to
be centered. If the steering wheel needs to turn right to be centered, shorten the

draglink. If the steering wheel needs to turn left to be centered, lengthen the
draglink

m) We recommend you have the jeep aligned by a professional alignment shop. The

front castor should be set to around 5 degrees.

n) Check all hardware after 500 miles of driving.
o) We also recommend checking all hardware before and after all off road trips to

avoid failure due to loose fasteners.

Please call you if you have any questions, we can be reached M-F 8-5 pst.