This manual was produced at the beginning of
our 2006 production. It was specifically
written for those models built after January,
2006. For those models built before that time
refer to the owners manuals for specific parts or
call the Swisher Mower factory for assistance.
For warranty issues or ordering parts for
the engines or the hydro units, contact the
authorized dealer in your area.
For additional assistance on service
Contact Swisher Mower Co., Inc.
Phone 1-800-222-8183
Fax 1-660-747-8650
E-mail cust.serv@swisherinc.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.If engine won’t crank
2.If engine won’t crank - continued
Battery ground connection at engine
3.Engine cranks but won’t start
Engine stalls when PTO is engaged
4.If PTO clutch will not engage
5.Wiring diagram
Hour meter not operating
6.Wire identification at switches
7.Wire identification on ZT18542
8.Wire identification on ZT2350
9.Carburetor fuel solenoid
10.Battery charging systems
11.Adjusting the drive controls
12.Tracking adjustments
13.Replacement of the hydro unit
14.Repairing or replacing the blade driver
15.Belt replacement routing
IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK
ALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRST
TEST #1
Using a remote starter switch or a suitable device,
make a connection between the large terminals on
the solenoid. If engine does not crank!!!
•Battery may be weak or dead
•Starter may be bad
•Battery cables may have bad connections
•Do not go to Test #2 until this test gives results
TEST #2
If engine did crank in test #1, disconnect green wire at
spade connector and apply positive voltage from the
battery to the primary wire on the solenoid. Make sure
the one with the eyelet is grounded. If engine doesn’t
crank now, replace the solenoid. Remember, all other
tests are useless unless these two tests make the
engine turn over.
TEST #3
If engine did crank in the first part of test #2, reconnect
green wire to solenoid. Make sure the drive controls are
out in neutral position. Using a jumper wire attached to
the positive terminal of the battery, apply 12 volts to
the red wire on terminal B of the ignition switch. Try to
crank, using the ignition switch. If engine cranks, the
fuse or the fuse holder, or related wiring is defective
somewhere back to the solenoid.
TEST #4
If engine did not crank in test #3, make sure the drive
controls are in neutral position. This time move the
jumper wire attached to the positive terminal of the
battery, to the green wire on S
switch. If all components in the circuit are working, the
engine should crank. If it doesn’t, move on to next test.
terminal of the ignition
1
This panel is located
right in front of the
battery. It is accessible
by removing the plate
below the front edge of
the seat.
A neutral switch is located at the lower end of both
drive control handles and is activated when the handles
are outward in the neutral position. Check that the
plunger buttons on both switches are depressed at least
3/8 inch. Loosening the two mounting screws and
sliding the switch to the side can adjust these.
Ohmmeter should go to zero when checking continuity
across switch terminals with plungers depressed.
If any of the switches in this circuit tested bad, install a
new one and perform Test #4 again. If all switches are
good, a connecting wire must be at fault. Don’t move
past Test #4 until it assures a good circuit. When you do
get good results, hook all wires back to original position
and try the ignition switch again. If no results, you will
need to replace the ignition switch.
BATTERY GROUND CONNECTION AT ENGINE
With PTO switch in the
off position, meter should
go to zero when checking
continuity across these
two terminals.
Negative battery ground on ZT2350Negative battery ground on ZT18542
2
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T START
Checks for electrical problems
•While turning ignition switch to its first position, listen for the fuel solenoid on the
carburetor to click. It must click to supply fuel to the carburetor.
•Try a new spark plug.
•Check for spark at plug when it is removed and the threaded end is grounded.
•Unplug the six-position socket that connects engine wiring to mower wiring harness.
Engine will still crank. If plug doesn’t have a spark now, ignition module is probably
defective.
Checks for mechanical problems
•Make sure the tank gas valve is turned on.
•Remove air filter element to check for signs of gas in the throat of the carburetor.
•If no gas, check to see if choke is working properly.
•If all above checks show positive, carburetor must have an internal problem. Remove and
clean the carburetor.
ENGINE STALLS WHEN PTO IS ENGAGED
The seat safety switch plug not being properly inserted, or a
defective plug can cause this problem. If the plug is not
inserted or is defective, the spark plug is grounded out when
the PTO is engage.
To check, remove plug from the PTO switch. Using an
ohmmeter, place one probe on the terminal connected to the
black wire going to the seat safety switch plug. Place the
other probe on a good chassis ground. The meter should be
on zero with no weight on the seat. Pulling the seat down
should open the circuit.
3
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