Sun-Mar centrex 2000 af, centrex 2000 af ac/dc, centrex 2000 af ne Owner's Manual

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Serial # ________________
CENTREX 2000 AF FAMILY
OWNER’S MANUAL
PO-MANU0-0829EX March 2008 Rev D3
Product Info: (905) 332-1314 Fax: (905) 332-1315 Tech. Service: (888) 341-0782
E-mail: [email protected] http://www.sun-mar.com
600 Main St 5370 South Service Rd.
Tonawanda NY Burlington, ON
14150-0888 USA L7L 5L1 CANADA
RATED CAPACITY
Weekend & Vacation Use (Cottage Use)
NE Units; 5 Adults or families of 7 or Electric Units; 6 Adults or families of 8
Residential & Continuous Use
NE units; 3 Adults or a family of 5 or Electric Units; 4 Adults or families of 6
Standard 41 Certified for liquid containment, odors, and solid end products in both residential and cottage use
Certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 41
CENTREX 2000 AF
CENTREX 2000 AF AC/DC
CENTREX 2000 AF NE
Electrical Specifacations 2000 2000 NE 2000
AC/DC Maximum Amps 2.4 NA 2.4/NA Fan Watts
35 req. 1.4 opt.
(Required or Optional 35 req./ Hook-up) 1.4 opt. Heater Watts
370 NA 370
(When on)
Average Power Use 200 NA 200 In Watts (Heater on 1/2 time)
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OWNER’S MANUAL
CONTENTS
Chapter 3
Chapter 4
Chapter 5
I
ntroduction
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
How your composting toilet Works
How Composting Works The Composting Chamber Compost Finishing Drawer Evaporation Chamber Winter Use CENTREX 2000 AF Family Explosion Drawing CENTREX 2000 AF Family Part Numbers Wiring Diagram Dry Toilet Explosion Diagram
Inspection
Check for Damage Check for Parts and Functionality Placement of AF Dr y Toilet
Installation
CENTREX 2000 AF Rough in Dimensions AF Dry Toilet Rough In Dimensions Included in Your Kit Installing the AF Toilet Base The Transition Piece Determining if an Extention Pipe Piece is Needed Assembling Extension Pipe Pieces Finishing the AF Toilet Installation Adjusting the Air Intake Installing optional Vent on Toilet Cutting Holes in the Toilet Chute Drain Installation Handling Effluent Vent Piping Location Adjusting the Fan Gate Vent Piping Installation Leading the Vent Through the Roof The Diffusor Electrical Considerations 12 Volt Fan Installation
3-7
3 3 3 4 4
5
6 6 7
8
8 8 8
9-15
9 10 11 11 11
12 12 12 13 13 13 13 14 14 14 14 15 15 15 16
Start Up and Use
Initial System Start Up Annual Start Up Periodic Check Up Ongoing Maintenance
Compost Troubleshooting
Aerobic Compost Requirements Compost Too Wet Compost Too Dry Waste not Breaking Down Lumps Drum Too Full Flies
Mechanical Troubleshooting
Urine Odour In Washroom Occasional Urine Odour Outside Sewage Odour when drum tur ns Fan Noisy Fan Not Working Liquid Buildup/ Lack of Eva poration Overflowing Liquid Heating System Not Working Liquid In Finishing Drawer Drum Will Not Stay Vertical Drum Will Not Turn Drum Door Not Opening/ Closing Waste Not Exiting Waste Pipe
Warranty Information
Basic Maintenance
17-19
17 18 18 19
20-23
20 21 21 22 22 22 23
24-29
24 25 25 25 26
26 26 27 28 28 28
29 29
30
31
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Introduction
HOW YOUR COMPOSTING TOILET WORKS
Composting is a natural recycling process where human waste and toilet paper are broken down by microbes into minerals and converted back to ear th. Heat, oxy­gen, organic material and moisture are needed to trans­form this waste into good fertilizing soil, perfect for your flower beds. Oxygen is provided by the ventilation system, and by tumbling of the composting drum. Additional organic material is introduced by adding a compost bulking mix­ture. The waste entering the toilet is approximately 90% water content. Any excess liquid which is not absorbed will collect on the floor of the unit (evapora­tion chamber) where it may be evaporated into water vapor and carried back to the atmosphere through the venting system. The remaining waste material is trans­formed into an inoffensive ear th-like substance.
The Composting Chamber
The composting chamber is in the form of a Bio-drum which holds the natural compost heat, provides the nec­essary mass to maintain a good compost, and is rotat­ed by turning the handle to achieve perfect mixing and aeration. During mixing, both the input door and the output doors will remain closed. When the drum retur ns to the top dead centre position ready to receive more waste, the doors will remain open. A drum stopper, on the right side of the unit (handle side) automatically holds the Bio-drum in a top dead
center position so that it is always positioned to receive new material. To ensure that the compost remains moist, but does not get too wet (between 40 and 60% moisture content is ideal), any excess liquid which the compost cannot absorb drains through a screen in the bottom of the drum directly onto an evaporating tray beneath the screen, and from there, overflows into the larger evap­orating chamber. The eva porating tray can be removed periodically to remove peat moss debris that has accu­mulated.
Compost Finishing Drawer
The compost finishing drawer is at the extreme right of the unit below the composting drum, and just above the evaporating chamber. Compost from the drum is iso­lated in the drawer where it is allowed to ‘finish’ com­posting. For seasonally used units, several drawer s of finished compost are normally removed at the begin­ning of the season. Otherwise some composted mate­rial can be extracted into the drawer and left there for 2 months until it is time to remove more compost from the drum.
Evaporating Chamber
The third chamber is the floor of the Sun-Mar “CEN­TREX 2000 AF” which forms the evapor ation chamber from where excess liquids are evapor ated. You will fre­quently see liquid in this area.
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The key to the success of the “CENTREX 2000 AF Family” lies in it’s three chamber design. Each of the three cham­bers; composting, compost finishing, and evaporation have their own independent environments for optimum effi­ciency.
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In Electric or AC/DC units, air is pulled through intake holes at the rear of the unit and down the toilet; over the evaporating chamber, and up the 2”(50mm) vent stack which exits from the front of the composting unit when AC power is being used. When using the NE or AC/DC units and AC power is unavailable, natural draught caused by the chimney effect combined with a 12 volt fan draws air into the unit and up the 100mm vent stack. In Electric or AC/DC units using the AC mode, the evap­oration process is further assisted by a thermostatical­ly controlled heating element in a separate sealed com­partment under the evaporating chamber. This heater is on when there is liquid in the evaporating chamber, and largely off when the chamber is dry. The heating system maintains warmth in the evaporating chamber, and the indirect warmth assists the composting
Winter Use
Because “Sun-Mar” units are made of fiberglass and high grade stainless steel, freezing temperatures will not damage the composting unit. Composting action decreases as the temperature drops, so for extended use, the toilet should be kept constantly at or above 55-60 F(13-15 C) degrees. All exposed 2“(50mm) vent stack should be insulated to minimize the conden­sation in the pipe and avoid ice blockages. In extreme temperatures, an additional source of heat will also be required. It is also advisable for residential applications in extreme climates to install an electric plumbing tape inside the 2”(50mm) vent to prevent icing. If the compost is frozen in the dr um, the unit may be used periodically as a “holding tank”, until the compost warms up and the microbes emerge from dor mancy. Space should be made in the drum to accommodate winter use. The drum should NOT be rotated when the compost is frozen.
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Basic Maintenance Instructions
Sealand toilet and 'Centrex Family' Central Units
The toilet is porcelain and should be cleaned with hot water or bio-degradable products to avoid damage to the compost. If required 'Compost Quick' or Baking Soda can be used diluted in hot water.
Three times a week weekly maintenance:
Turn drum to reveal waste inlet hole through access por t and add compost mix at the rate of 1 cup (250ml) per person per day. (Scoop provided is 2 cups or 500ml) Rotate handle clockwise to mix contents of Bio-drum and give 6 complete revolutions of the drum - (36­40 rotations of the handle). Ensure that the drum door opening is in the vertical position at the end after hearing the 'click' of the catch.
Check compost volume and condition in Bio-ddrum
and:
If the waste in the Bio-drum is too wet add wood shavings to improve aeration. If composting is too slow add a compost accerant every second week, and ensure that the dr um is not more than 1/2 full. If it is, follow the instructions for the emptying cycle.
Monthly maintenance and emptying cycle:
Rake out evaporation chamber with rake provided. For units with one, (Centrex 1000, 2000, & 3000 units) the black evaporating tray should be removed, solid matter tipped into the finishing tray and then replaced beneath the drum screen. Empty out the collection chamber ready to receive fresh material.
Attention: the composting unit must remai
n plugged in to an electrical outlet continuously to function odourlessly. The AC/DC units should have both fans running while used in electric mode to prevent recir­culation
between vent stacks. If you will be away from the residence where the composting unit is installed for longer than three days, the power may be disconnected while the composting unit lays dor­mant.
Composting Drum: Waste and bulking mixture collect for decomposition
Finishing Drawer: Where compost is put to ‘finish’
Evaporation Tray: Extends the surface area of the evapora­tion chamber
Evaporation Chamber: This is where you will frequently see liq­uid collecting.
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WARRANTY
EXPLOSION DRAWING OF COMPOSTING UNIT
SUN-MAR Corp. warrants the original purchaser that this toilet is free from defects in mate­rial and workmanship under normal house or cottage use. SUN-MAR Corp. will furnish new parts for any par t that fails within three years provided that our inspection shows that such failure is due to defective material or workmanship. Any part supplied by us to replace another part is warranted for the balance of the original warranty period.
This warranty does not cover:
1. Damage resulting from neglect, abuse, accident or alteration; or damage caused by fire, flood, acts of God or any other casualty.
2. Parts and accessories not sold or manufactured by SUN-MAR Corp. or any damage resulting from the use of such items.
3. Damage or failure resulting from failure of the purchaser to follow normal operating procedure outlined in the Owner’s Manual or in any other printed instructions.
4. Labor and services charges incurred in the removal and replacement of any par ts found defective under the terms of this warranty.
5. All returns to the factory must by made freight prepaid. All shipments from the factory
are made F.O.B. the factory.
This warranty is in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied, and no per son is authorized to enlarge our warranty responsibility, which is limited to the terms of this cer­tificate. The Company reserves the right to change, improve or modify its products without obligation to install these improvements on equipment previously manufactured.
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CENTREX 2000 A/F PART NUMBERS & DESCRIPTIONS
Not a common repair.
Follow items in prevention column for “Drum Too Full”
Drum should never be more than 1/2 full.
Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
# PART DECSRIPTION # PART DESCRIPTION
1.
PP-AIRFL-0005XX AF Transition Piece
17
PP-INSU0-0187XX Insulation (Electric & AC/DC)
2
. AO-ACCEP-0481BX Access Port
18
AO-THERA-0001BX Thermosat Sweden
3.
PM-BUSH0-0173 Bushing 1/2”(13mm) OD
18
AO-THERA-0001AX Thermostat
4.
PP-GEAR0-0173XX Nylon Drive Gear
19
AO-HEATE-0311XX Heating Element C9286-1
5
AO-SHAFA-0852XX Stainless Steel Drive Shaft
20
PM-ALUMS-0811XX Aluminum Sheet
6
AO-FAN_A-0315KX Fan Assembly (Electric & AC/DC)
21
AO-DRUML-0469BX Drum Locker
7
PP-FAN_a-0315DD Rubber Gasket
22
PP-SCRE0-0827XX Drum Lock Release Knob
8
PP-DRUM0-0800XX Centrex 2000 Drum
23
PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel
9
PP-BEARP-0758RX Bearing Plate
24
PF-TANK2-0801XX Centrex 2000 Tank
10
PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel
25
PP-BEARS-0787BX Bearing Strip
11
AP-DRAI0-0306XX 25mm Drain Assembly
26
AM-DRUMS-0329XX Drum Screen
12
PF-EVAPT-0789XX Evaporation Tray
27
AO-DRUMD-2004XX Drum Door
13
PF-DRAW1-0764XX Centrex 2000 Drawer
28
AO-DRUMD-2004XX Drum Door
14
P0-ELECB-0001AX Electric Box Assembly(Electric and AC/DC)
29
AO-HANDL-3000XX Swivel Handle
15
PF-HEAT2-0803XX Heater Base (Electric & AC/DC)
30
PP-TOPC2-0802CX Centrex 2000 AC/DC Top
16
PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel
30
PP-TOPC2-0802BX Centrex 2000 Top Kit
30
PP-TOPC2-0802DX Centrex 2000 NE Top
31
AO-PIPEP-0305XX 100mm Vent Inlet (NE)
Drum Will Not Turn (Cont’d)
Drum Door Not Opening/ Closing Properly
(Compost will drop into the fin­ishing drawer even when the drum is not being rotated backwards to extract com­post).
Drum fallen from bearings fallen.
Drum too full
Hinges Stuck
Hinge(s) broken
Have your serial number ready. If the dr um has fallen, contact your Sun-Mar dealer immediately. We will make sure your prob­lem is fixed quickly.
See Section on “Compost Troubleshooting- Drum Too Full”
Drum hinges have compost caked on them. Spray with vinegar and water solution and clean with nylon brush. This will push the obstruction away so the door swings freely.
Call your Sun-Mar dealer to obtain a replacement drum hinge.
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EXPLOSION VIEW & PARTS FOR DRY TOILET
# PART DESCRIPTION
1
PP-TOILS-0208CX Toilet Seat White
PP-TOILS-0208DX Toilet Seat Bone
2
PF-BOWLL-0246FX AF Bowl Liner
3
PP-CAP00-0587XX Tap Cap Bone
PP-CAP00-0587WX Tap Cap White
4
PM-SCRE0-0250XX #8 X 3/4” (19mm) Flat Head
Philips Screw
5
PF-AIRFL-0001BX Toilet Top Bone
PF-AIRFL-0001XX Toilet Top White
# PART DESCRIPTION
6
PM-SCRE0-0251BX #8 X 1/2” (16mm) Stainless
Steel Flat Head Screw
7
PP-WASH0-0274XX CKS Plastic Washer
8
PP-SNAPC-0273XX Snap Cap (Bone)
PP-SNAPC-0273WX Snap Cap (White)
9
PP-AIRFL-003XX Toilet Chute
10
PF-AIRFL-0002BX Toilet Base Bone
PF-AIRFL-0002XX Toilet Base White
Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
Heating System Not Working (Cont’d) (Electric and AC/DC)
Liquid in Finishing Drawer
Drum Will Not Stay Vertical
Drum Will Not Turn
Heating Element Failure
Drum Screen Clogged
Unit tilted to the right
Condensation run­ning down vent stack
Drum Locker Broken
Set screw securing handle to shaft has broken
Steel pin securing gear wheel to shaft has broken
DO NOT use a pressure hose around the base of the unit.
Install Unit so that weather and/or groundwater cannot get at the base of the unit.
Use Proper Bulking Material
Install toilet level or tilting slightly to the left, DO NOT install the toilet tilt­ing forwards or to the right. If you are unsure of the grade of the floor, install it with a wedge piece.
Remove horizontal sections of vent pipe and insulate all exposed 2” (50mm)venting.
When returning the drum to top dead center position, do not bang against drum locker with excessive force. Remember to pull out the drum locker button before rotating the drum backwards.
Not a common repair.
Keep composting drum from becom­ing overloaded. This puts undue strain on the nylon gear.
Have your serial number ready and call your Sun­Mar dealer for a replacement. (Detailed instruc­tions are included with the replacement par t) Please note: Because this part is not easy to replace, and because there is far less chance that you will need this part than a thermostat; we recommend trying to replace the ther mostat first.
Use a flashlight to see the screen at the bottom of the dr um. Scrub screen with wire brush. The overflow drain should be hooked up.
Use a 1/4 - 1/2”(6mm - 12mm) wedge piece under the right side of the unit to drain liquid more easily towards the overflow drain of the unit.
Liquid will be clear or yellowish in appearance. Make sure all vent pipe exposed to the outdoor is well insulated and there are no horizontal runs.
Have serial number ready and call your Sun-Mar dealer for a replacement part.
Drill out set screw and replace, or get handle replacement kit (instructions included).
Have your serial number ready and call your Sun­Mar dealer for a replacement Small Gear Kit.
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Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
Drains Blocked
Test to determine whether failure has occurred
Thermostat Failure
Overflow­ing Liquid (Cont’d)
Heating System Not Working (Electric and AC/DC)
Chapter 1
Inspection
Inspecting the unit for damage
Check Carton Contents and Familiarize Yourself with the Centrex 2000 A/F
Placement of AF Dry Toilet
1. Rake peat moss away from back two corners of Centrex 2000 A/F. These are the“buildup” areas. If drains are still clogged, proceed to
step 3.
2. Check drain line for kinks, blockages or upward bends. Remove and flush if blockages present, unkink if bent and ensur e that the drain pipe is sloping downward. If your drain pipe is in order, proceed to step 3.
3. Use a wire to poke peat moss out of the dr ain assembly at the back. You will notice if this is clogged because you will see a brown spot through the opaque assembly. (Only peat would make it through the drum screen). If there is no peat clog, or the problems contin­ue, backwash the unit quickly with a hose by applying the nozzle to one of the drain assemblies and turning it on and off very quickly. If the bottom of the unit is full of
liquid, you may wish to remove some prior to
back-washing. A shop-vac works well.
Pull drawer out and put your hand in the evapo­ration chamber (Not in the liquid). If there is no warmth rising from the floor of the unit, your heating system is not working. It is most com­monly the thermostat that has failed. If you notice a lack of ev aporation, but there is still warmth in the heating chamber, see the Liquid Buildup section on page 26 for solutions.
Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a replacement. (Detailed instructions are included with the replacement part) If the insulation behind the ther mostat access cover is moist or discolored, or heating does not work after the new thermostat has been connect­ed, then the heating element has failed.
1. A clogged drain is not very likely to happen if you rake your evaporating chamber 1-2 times a season (cottage use) and 3-4 times for continuous use.
2. Use premium 1”(25mm) hose for
the drain line. A good hose will be less likely to kink. Use elbows or fittings around bends to pre­ventkinks.
3. Use the proper bulking material.
A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFI) is recommended to protect your Centrex 2000 A/F from power surges that could cause your heating system to malfunction.
Your thermostat and fan are the two constantly moving parts on the unit, and so are the most likely to fail. Both are easy to replace.
i) If there is any visible damage to the carton-
the contents of carton MUST be inspected before signing bill of lading. Damaged units
should be refused. Call Sun-Mar immediately.
ii)
Before signing the shipping papers and dismissing the driver.-
ensure that the carton contents have been inspected.
iii)
If the shipper has left-
Report the damage immediately to the transpor t company and call Sun-Mar.
iv)
Soon after delivery, remove the Centrex 2000 AF carefully from the carton
-
If there is hidden damage, or for any service Questions, contact Sun-Mar to
determine the best course of action. Check that the carton contains the vent stack (pipe, fittings, roof flashing and diffusor); rake, drain hose and fittings, extension pipe piece and transition piece. Notify Sun-Mar if you are missing anything. i) Turn the drum handle clockwise to rotate the Bio-Drum for mixing and aeration. (The drum
rotates counter-clockwise and the drum door closes).
TThhiiss iiss hhooww yyoouu wwiillll rroottaattee tthhee ddrruumm..
ii) Lift and remove the access door and rotate the drum until the drum opening is opposite
the access door for adding a compost bulking mixture.
TThhiiss iiss hhooww yyoouu wwiillll aadddd bbuul
lkkiinngg
mmiixxttuurree ttoo tthhee ddrruumm
iii) Plug the unit’s electrical cord into a standard electrical outlet, and feel the air movement
from the vent outlet at the top left of the unit to ensure the vent system is working prop-
erly (Electrical or AC/DC) v) Pull out the compost finishing drawers at the bottom left and right of the unit. vi) After the unit has been plugged in for ten minutes, place a hand on the floor of the
evaporating chamber (the inside floor of the unit) to check it is warm to the touch, and
that the heater is working properly. vii) Affix the “WARNING/CLEANING” sticker to the underside of the toilet seat cover, and check
that another is on the access port of the composting unit. viii) Check the AF “Dry Toilet” for any damage.
Ensure that the floor joists are not in the way and that there is an unobstructed 10”(254mm) diameter passage from the underside of the AF “Dr y Toilet” to the top of the transition piece. The 10”(254mm) hole should be centered 13”(33cm) from the back wall and at least 6.5” (165mm) from the side wall in the room where the toilet will be installed. The transition piece on the top of the composting unit should be located so that the center line of the transition piece is directly below the center of the 10”(254mm) circular cutout which will be made in the bathroom floor above. The transition piece should be completely ver tical on the composting unit.
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Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
Fan Noisy (Cont'd’) (Electric and AC/DC)
Fan Not Working (Electric and AC/DC)
Liquid Buildup/ Lack of Evaporat­ion
Overflow­ing Liquid
Fan damaged in shipping, or bearing are beginning to wear if it is rattling.
Debris in fan or Mechanical Failure.
Increased usage.
Failure of heating system (Electric and AC/DC)
Mineral salts may have accumulated in the evaporation chamber over a few years, reducing evaporation rates.
Overflow drain not hooked up
Unit tipped forward
3. If it is a vibration noise, you may need to tie down the top of the stack with guide wires and bracket the pipe that runs up the side of the structure.
Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar
The amount of liquid v aries substantially between installations. The overflow drain needs to be installed on all Centrex 2000 AF models as you will have overflow in DC mode and with heavy use on AC mode.
Check “heating not working”.
To get rid of these, fill the evaporation chamber with very hot water. Leave overnight. Drain all Liquid through the overflow drain by tip­ping the unit up (make sure overflow is hooked up first)
Connect overflow safety drain (See also increased usage above)
Check and ensure that the unit is level or tilting slightly towards the left by placing a 6mm -12mm shim piece under the right side of the unit.
The fan is a continuously moving part which will eventually have to be changed. Do Not turn on and off daily.
Install the safety drain. If the unit is being used in DC mode there will be very little evaporation.
Rake evaporating chamber vigor­ously at spring startups for cottage use, and once every other month for residential use.
ROUGH IN DIMENSIONS
Chapter 2
Installation
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AF “DRY TOILET” ROUGH IN DIMENSIONS
Occasional Urine Odour Outside
Strong Sewage Odour Present when drum turns
Fan Noisy (Electric and AC/DC)
Downdraft is dependent on wind direction, as well as natural obstructions, etc. Initially, install the vent 20-30”(60­90cm) above the peak of the roof. If symptoms occur, add lime or a fil­ter box.
Follow “Ongoing Maintenance” and use proper bulking material.
Clean the AC fan with a small brush and/or compressed air nozzle once every 2-3 years in cottage use, or once a year residentially. To do this, remove the fan assembly by taking off the snap cap covers and unscrewing the screws which hold it in. The entire assembly will then simply slide out. This will prevent wear and lengthen the life of your fan.
Cleaning should not be necessary for the DC fan.
Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
1. Vent stack not installed even
with peak of roof.
2. If vent stack is installed above roof peak, natu­ral obstructions, such as tall trees, being located in a valley or close to a hill may be causing down­draft.
Compost is anaerobic
Fan damaged in shipping, or bear­ings are beginning to wear if it is rat­tling.
1. Check that the vent is installed 20-30” (60-90cm) above the peak of the roof. If
not, extend the vent. Guide wires may be necessary.
2. Add lime to the evaporation chamber - as
much as you think necessary. You will have
to rake more often if you do this. You can also add lime to the compost if desired, but no more than 1 cup(250ml) per week as it may upset the PH balance in larger amounts.
3. Sun-Mar has a filter box available which will filter the ammonia out of the 50mm stack
vented air in a downdraft situation. Call
Sun-Mar for details. Begin following: “Compost Troubleshooting” sug­gestions.
1. If the fan is r attling, it may need to be
cleaned or the bearings are worn and the fan
needs to be replaced.
2. A hum is the normal sound the fan will make.
If you are in a ver y quiet setting it will be
more noticeable. If this is the case, consider
purchasing an AC fan speed control so that
the fan may be turned down when the noise
bothers you. These are not available for our
DC fans, but should not be necessary.
3. If it is a vibration noise, you may need to tie
down the top of the stack with guide wires
and bracket the pipe that runs up the side of
the structure.
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Page 12
Urine Odour around Centrex 2000 AF
Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
Included In Your Kit
Installing the AF Toilet Base
The Transition Piece
1- Owners Manual 1- 1 1/2” (38mm)Roof Flashing (Electric & AC/DC) 1- Warranty Card 1 - 4” (100mm)Roof Flashing (NE & AC/DC) 1- Evaporation Tray 6- 2”x30”(51mm x 787mm) PVC Pipe (Electric & AC/DC) 1- 8’4”(256cm x 25 mm) Drain Pipe 1- Centrex 2000 Hardware Kit 1- Rake 1- 4”(100mm) Diffusor (Electric & AC/DC) 1- AF Transition Piece 1- 6”(150mm) Diffusor (NE & AC/DC) 5- 4” x30” (100mm x 785mm) ABS Pipe (NE & AC/DC) 1- Centrex 2000 NE Hardware Kit (NE & AC/DC) 1- 12 Volt 2.4 Watt Fan (NE & AC/DC) 1- 44”(112cm) Extension Pipe Piece 1- AF Silicone Kit
The AF “Dry Toilet” comes preassembled. For the purpose of explanation, the toilet base is the bottom of the toilet which is secured to the bathroom floor, the toilet chute is the black inner section (shown in Fig. A) that fits through the floor and is attached to the toilet top, the toilet top is the upper part of the toilet that attaches to the toilet base, and the bowl liner which is the black removable funnel shaped piece below the toilet seat. To install the AF “Dry Toilet”, follow the procedure outlined below:
1. To locate the position of the hole, place the toilet chute in the desired location and trace the 10”(250mm) diameter cut out in the bottom of the toi­let base on the floor in the bathroom. (See Fig. A)
2. Drill a 1/2”(6mm) hole on the front of traced line and then check under the floor that the hole will be clear of floor joists and will line up with the com­posting unit below. (See Fig. B)
3. If the position is cor rect, complete the cutting of the 10”(250mm) diameter circle with a jig saw. (See Fig. C)
4. Center the toilet base over the 10”(250mm) diameter hole that has been cut out of the floor and securely attach to the floor by using the four 5/16” by 2 1/2”(8mm by 64mm) lag bolts that are provided with your kit. (See Fig. D) **Prior to finishing the toilet installation, it is a good idea at this time to do a pre-assembly check to see if you will need any extension pipe
Place transition piece(Fig. E) into the waste inlet hole on the top of the Centrex 2000 AF composting unit. Make sure that the transition piece is completely vertical on the unit, or completely ver tical. It is important that the transition piece is not tilted so that waste can drop directly into the composting drum.
Fig. E
Fig. D
Fig. C
Fig. B
Fig. A
Horizontal runs or downward slopes on pipe are causing con­densate to block 50mm vent pipe.
Fan has failed (AC or DC mode)
Device other than Sun­Mar diffusor is installed on top of the vent stack Room where unit is located is airtight.
50mm vent stack has too many bends and/or horizontal lengths.
Not enough air being pulled down the dry toilet
Re-install the vent so there are no longer any low points where condensate can collect. If re-instal­lation is not possible, drill a small hole in the bot­tom of the low point (prefer ably outdoors) to allow condensate to drain. (Note: watch for icing in winter at this hole.) Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a replacement. Instructions are included with the replacement fan.
Wind turbines or vent caps may be discouraging air movement. If so, replace with a Sun-Mar dif fu­sor.
1. Hold a lighter up to the air intake holes on the back of the unit. Air should be drawn into the holes. If air is not easily pulled in, check venting for too many bends or horizontal lengths and/or provide more ventilation to the room.
2. Install fresh air intakes on any competing appliances.
1. Re-install the 2”(50mm) vent stack to reduce
the number of bends/eliminate horizontal
lengths.
2. If the vent stack cannot be fur ther straight­ened, remove the AC fan assembly and reduce the amount of r ecirculating air by adjusting the fan gate (see page 14).
Two 3”(75mm) diameter air intake holes covers are supplied with the hardware kit. One or both of the air intake holes at the rear of the unit, may be covered so that more air is pulled down the toilet.
Install wall brackets on vent pipe to prevent settling. DO NOT install horizontal runs as liquid will collect and block ventilation, causing odour.
The fan is a constantly moving part and has a finite ser vice life.
Wind turbines or vent caps should not be installed on or, instead of a Sun-Mar diffusor.
Install your Centrex 2000 AF in an area with plenty of ventila­tion and watch for competing appliances such as bathroom fans and wood stoves.
Install the vent with minimal bends (total bends should equal no more than 360 degrees) and NO horizontal or downward slopes.
Covers should only be inserted if they are needed, because inser­tion reduces airflow over the evaporation chamber, which in turn reduces evapor ation per­formance.
- 11 -
- 24 -
Most problems are prevented through proper maintenance and the use of proper bulking materials in the toilet. If you do have a problem which may be a mechanical or installation problem, this Trouble Shooting section will help you solve it. If you still have further questions, contact technical service at Sun-Mar for advice .
Chapter 5
MECHANICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING
Page 13
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Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
Flies Present
-compost too dry
-compost anaerobic
-kitchen/garden waste added
-foreign material added
1 .To get rid of flies, you can use any pesticide
that is used on your garden. Pesticides used for garden use are not anti-bacterial so are
safe to use on your compost. If you prefer not
to use a pesticide in your compost, the unit
should be cleaned out completely and washed
with soapy water to kill any remaining eggs.
Once the unit is washed, it should be rinsed well
to remove all traces of soap before restar ting the compost.
2. If using a pesticide to kill the insects, it may be purchased from a local garden center or hardware store.
3. If using a liquid, sprinkle about 1/2 cup
(125ml) of the mixture dir ectly over the
compost. Using a spr ay bottle, apply through-
out the entire toilet (finishing drawer, evapo-
rating chamber, drum, out side of dr um) until
the fly population is eliminated. Open a window or door to ventilate the room while applying and keep children and pets away from the area for a few hours after application. Repeat if you see another fly after the initial application.
IMPORTANT: Application of a pesticide in a Sun-Mar com­poster is not a health concern because all Sun­Mar units are vented.
1. Keep compost moist. In order to determine a good level of moisture, shine a flashlight into the drum. The compost should have a slight
gloss or shine. If it does not, add warm water to it until it reaches this consistency. Fungus gnats tend to be attracted to a dry compost, due to the fungus which begins to form
on the surface when it dries out. A good, moist compost will not be attractive to flies.
2. Do not add topsoil from the ground, composted matter, or
kitchen scraps to the toilet. Flies may be present in, or attracted to these items.
3. If toilet is installed over an old sep
tic line,make sure that the lines are well sealed. Insects find unused lines attractive.
4.See “Compost Remediation” if the
compost smells- anaerobic compost will attract flies and drastically reduce the performance of your composting unit
5. Use a mixture of peat moss and non-antibacterial wood shavings.
Place the toilet chute into the toilet base in the bathroom. If the toilet chute extends 1-2”(25 - 50mm) into the transition piece, then no extension pipe pieces will be required. If the transition piece does not extend far enough up to meet the toilet chute, then one or more extension pipe pieces will be needed. These minimum 44”(112cm) pipe sections can be cut down to the correct length, so that when assem­bled and placed in the transition piece, they extend 1-2”(25-50mm) into the toilet chute. After taking into account the overlap, each pipe piece provides an extension of about 41”(104cm).
A pipe section, which comes in two halves, can be cut to the correct length, by cutting the required amount off the str aight ends of each half with a hac k saw. It is easier to cut pipe sections to length before joining the two halves together. After cutting, clean up the edges with a sanding block and coarse (40-60 grit) sandpaper. Before joining the two halves of the pipe pieces, spread a bead of silicone caulking from top to bottom along the inside of both halves of pipe pieces (so that the inside of the pipe section will be sealed). Press the two halves together, and secure them by screwing the self tapping screws provided into the pre-drilled holes. Run a finger or spatula up along each joint inside the chute to remove any excess sili­cone. Ensure that when the pipe pieces are assembled together, and the bottom piece is placed in the transition piece of the composting unit, so that the top of the tr ansition piece extends 25-50mm over the chute or extension pipe piece.
Pre Assembly Check:
Before finishing the installation, make sure everything fits together properly. T he top of the pipe piece is belled out to accommodate the toilet chute. Place the transition piece in the cut out provided on the top of the composting unit. Place the pipe pieces, if any, inside the transition piece. Next lower the toilet top onto the base so that the chute projects 1-2”(25-50mm) into the pipe piece or directly into the transition piece if no pipe piece is used. Ensure that the toilet top is properly located over the toilet base, that the chute is completely vertical, and that the screws to attach the top to the toilet base, line up properly. ( Fig. A) If the pre-assembly check appears OK, then disassemble and reassemble each piece as in the pre-assembly check(see above). To assemble the toilet top with the chute, line up top with the chute and fasten the four screws around toilet opening and cover with the snap caps (Fig B). Insert the toilet chute into the toilet base until the toilet top rests on the base (Fig C). When reassembling use silicone caulking at the joints where the toilet chute sits inside the extension pipe piece, where the extension pipe piece sits inside the transition piece and where the transition piece sits inside the compos­ing unit. Use a finger or spatula to remove any excess silicone. Next, line up the two pre-drilled holes which go through the front of the toilet top, through into the toilet base, and insert the two scre ws without tightening them. With these front two holes secured, tilt the rear of the top down over the base until the last four screws are located. Screw in all six scr ews, making sure not to over-tighten, and push on the plastic caps over the screw heads. Attach the toi­let seat by threading the nylon screws through the toilet seat hinge and into the holes into the toilet top. Put the black removable bowl liner into place under the toilet seat.
Determining if an Extension Pipe Piece is Needed
Assembling and Installing the Extension Pipe Pieces (If Needed)
Finishing the AF “Dry Toilet” Installation
Fig. A
Fig. B
Fig. C
Page 14
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Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
Waste not Breaking Down at all (cont'd’)
Lumps
If many large lumps have formed in drum, you will need to remove them or break them up with the rake tool. Follow the pre­vention column to ensure this does not happen.
Drum Too Full
Note: The drum is too full when it is over 1/2 full, and the door is not closing properly.
Antibiotics being used for more than a few weeks on a continuous basis may kill bacteria.
Compost Too Dry
Over-Rotation of Drum
Peat moss used as bulking material with no wood shavings.
Compost not emp-
tied into finishing drawer in a timely fashion.
Kitchen/Garden Waste added
Empty drum. Hose out inside of drum. Restart compost according to “Initial System Startups”.
Follow instructions for “Compost Too Dry” above. And also add 1-2 QUARTS(2 liters) of warm water.
Follow “ONGOING TOILET MAINTENANCE”, and also add 1-2 QUARTS(2 liters) of wood shavings.
Begin using 70% wood shavings, 30% peat moss as bulking material.
1. Remove compost until drum is only half full or less. Rotate compost thoroughly to aerate, and add compost accelerant if available.
2. If you need to dump more than one drawer of compost, and you do not already have a suit­able backyard compost heap, you may try an open-slatted wooden crate (such as the kind used to pack age fruits and vegetables). Layer compost with bulking material and leave crate outside for around 2 months to finish composting.
When used normally, antibiotics will only slightly slow compost. Add compost accelerant during this peri­od to accelerate compost action. Urinating elsewhere during this peri­od will also help minimize the dam­age to the compost.
Follow recommendations for check­ing and adding moisture in “PERI­ODIC CHECKUP”.
Drum should be turned three times a week, 6 rotations each time; once before departure for weekend use.
Use proper bulking material.
When drum is 1/2 full, remove some compost to the finishing drawer by rotating the drum backwards, to avoid surprise over-filling of drum. Do NOT let drum get above 1/2 full. (The drum is 1/2 full when the level of the compost reaches 4­6”(100-150mm) below where the drum door hangs) This will lead to lack of aer ation, and anaerobic compost, and the inconvenience of having to remove more than one drawer.
Do Not add kitchen or garden waste.
The Centrex 2000 AF composting unit has a 3”(75mm) diameter air intake hole at the rear of the unit, just above the floor of the evaporation chamber. A 3”(75mm) intake cover is supplied with the hard­ware kit in the composting unit. The air intake can be removed and replaced with the 3”(75mm) intake cover if it proves necessar y to pull more air down the AF “Dry Toilet” chute. This cover should only be inserted if it is needed, because blocking the air intake will reduce the airflow over the evaporation chamber, which in turn reduces evaporation performance.
If the air intake cover is in place (See “Adjusting the Air Intake Covers” above), but the toilet is more than one extension pipe piece above the com­posting unit so the fan is unable to draw air down through the toilet chute, then it is necessary to vent the toilet directly. The toilet itself should be vented as follows: i) Obtain sufficient pipe and fittings for the vent using either 3”(75mm)
sewer pipe or plumbing pipe.
ii) Trace the outside outline of the pipe on the circular section at the top
and rear of the toilet top at either the left or right of the toilet top depending on which side it is more convenient to vent from.
(See Fig. A)
iii) Cut out the hole by first drilling a hole in the circumference of the traced
outline, and then carefully using a jig saw to complete the circle. Sand to enlarge or smooth off the edges if necessar y.
iv) Cut a short length of pipe and glue it into a connector, with 1/2” (13mm)
of pipe protruding from the connector. Place this protruding end in the newly cut hole to locate the base of the vent stack. (Fig. B)
v) Erect the vent stack as vertically as possible following the same rules as
outlined on page 14, in the vent pipe location section.
vi) If it is not possible to make this vent ver tical or close to vertical, a 12
Volt fan may also have to be installed in this vent stack. Since the 12 Volt fan comes in a 12”(300mm) length of 4”(100mm) sewer pipe, transition coupling will be needed if 3”(75mm) pipe has been used.
Remove the bowl liner in the toilet top, and drill out a large number (15-20) holes 1/4”(6mm) or bigger at the top rear of the chute piece no more than 3”(75mm) down from the top edge. (See Fig. C) These holes will enable the vent on the top of the toilet to dr aw air up the chute.
The 1”(25mm) Safety drains at the left of the “Centrex 2000 AF Family”, exit to both the front and back. To connect one of the drains, (whichever is convenient), remove the plug, attach the 1”(25mm) hose (included) and secure with a hose clamp. Ensure there are no kinks or upward bends in the dr ain hose.
Adjusting the Air Intake
Installing the Optional Vent on the AF “Dry Toilet:”
Cutting Holes in the Toilet Chute
Drain Installation
Fig. A
Fig. B
Fig. C
Page 15
- 14 -- 21 -
Handling Effluent
Vent Piping Location
Adjusting the fan gate (Electric and AC/DC)
Vent Piping Installation
The following are possible options to take care of the liquid:
- Use a container which is emptied periodically (water jug or small barrel). This ensures a closed loop system.
- Feed into a lined pit filled with gravel and sand. Such a
recycling bed also ensures a closed loop system.
- Feed into a small cesspit or “french drain”.
-Plumb into an existing septic or holding tank line.
Installation should be in accordance with applicable local regu­lations.
Piping can be installed up the inside wall; through the wall at a slight angle and up the outside wall. The choice depends on ease of installation, visibility, and (especially if the toilet is to be used consistently through a cold winter), the necessity of insulating all exposed vent pipe.
The vent on the right is a 4”(100mm) on-electric vent. All others show possible 2”(50mm) Centrex 2000 (electric) vent configura­tions.
If you believe that there may be a downdraft outside of the building, it may be a good idea to remove your fan assembly prior to installation and set the fan gate to ‘0’ to prevent urine odour in the bathroom. The fan gate is factor y set to ‘3’, which recirculates air within the unit. If there is a downdraft you may get blow back into the room where the unit is installed. When setting the fan gate to ‘0’, you may lose some evaporation so it is also wise to hook up the emergency drain. Piping and fittings are of standard 2”(50mm) PVC thin wall tubing(central vacuum) and/or 4”(100mm) PVC thin wall pipe. Additional pipe or fittings can be purchased from a building supply dealer. If you can­not find them near your location, you can substitute schedule 40 pipe and use a rubber coupling to join this pipe to the unit. i) Minimize the number of shar p angles in the 2”(50mm) vent as each reduces vent efficiency. The
4”(100mm) vent should be installed as near to vertical as possible. If it is necessary to have angles in the 4”(100mm) vent pipe 45 degree angles are used whenever possible. On the 4”
(100mm) DC stack, bends should be limited to 2 - 45 degree angles. This will necessitate the
installation of a 12 volt fan.
ii) Do not lead the 2”(50mm) vent pipe downward or horizontally at any point. This may lead to the
Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention
Compost Too Wet
Your compost is too wet when there are standing pools of liquid. Compost will smell of sewage and is anaerobic
Compost Too Dry
Compost is too dry when com­post looks flat and brown rather than rich and black.
Waste not Breaking Down at all
If this is the case, the drum will fill up quickly
Compost porosity is poor. Too much peat moss has been used as a bulking material. This is compacting, pre­venting liquid from draining through, and leaving no free air space for oxy­gen. Drum screen clogged
Moisture not being added periodically or before departure on cottage units. Toilet not used for urination .
Insufficient bulking material or not enough peat moss.
Insufficient Microbes
Temperature around unit under 15C
Bleach or other anti-bacterial chemi­cals added.
For an immediate improvement in porosity add about 2 liters of wood shavings, of any kind (except cedar, cypress, juniper, bamboo, teak, redwood, eucalyptus, sugar cane, or any other woods with anti-bacterial properties) to the dr um.
On an ongoing basis, change bulking material a mixture of 60% wood shavings and 40% peat moss mix.
Remove the finishing drawer. Scrub screen (which will be visible with a flashlight on the bot­tom of the dr um) with wire brush. The overflow drain should be hooked up.
Add 2 to 4 litres of warm water to compost in order to bring it up to appropriate moisture level.
Peat moss retains moisture. 40-60% moisture content is ideal for aerobic microbes to thrive.
Add compost accelerant or unsterilized black earth from a garden center.
Install heat source to increase temperature. Temperature should be kept above 13 -15C con­stantly if toilet will be used on an ongoing basis.
Empty drum. Hose out inside of drum. Restart compost according to “Initial System Startups”.
Use 40% peat moss, 60% wood shavings as a bulking material.
Follow section on moisture in “PERIODIC CHECKUP”.
Use toilet for urination.
Add correct bulking material.
Be sure to add compost acceler­ant at startups.
Install unit in warm area. The warmer the area, the better your compost will be! If evening tem­peratures fall below the prescribed temperatures on a residential unit, consider installing a heat source on a timer for evenings.
Never add bleach or cleaning chemicals.
Page 16
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This chapter will deal with problem that may arise with your compost, what is required to make your compost healthy and how to correct problems if they arise.
Aerobic Compost Requirements
In a Sun-Mar, a good compost is predominantly aerobic, which means that oxygen is available for aerobic bacteria throughout the Bio-drum. Aerobic bacteria consume waste quickly and odourlessly to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor and leave behind a small fraction of the original waste volume in the form of basic minerals. The end compost is a mix of valu­able minerals and bulking material that has not decomposed.
To work effectively to break down waste, aerobic bacteria need oxygen, moisture, available carbon (from the bulking material), and warmth.
In a Sun-Mar, oxygen is provided by the tumbling of the dr um and the bulking material leaving free air space within the com­post. Moistur e is provided by the waste, and is made available to aerobic bacteria by the moisture retention proper ties of the bulking material. If the compost is too dr y, add warm water.
In summary, to keep the compost aerobic, it is important to rotate the drum, add bulking material, and keep the compost moist.
Oxygen
Lack of oxygen becomes a problem where:
- Too much moisture eliminates the free air space,
- A lack of bulking material limits free air space,
- Aerobic bacteria use up oxygen in the compost.
Lack of oxygen causes the compost to become increasingly anaerobic, which means that aerobic bacteria are displaced by anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria work slowly and pro­duce undesirable ammonia, hydrogen sulphide, and methane. Consequently, the maintenance of ‘free air’ space by periodi­cally rotating the drum and adding the right bulking material is very important in Sun-Mar units. Excessive rotation is not helpful and can harm the compost by disturbing the bacteria too much.
Moisture
If there is too muc h moisture, and the compost is approaching saturation, oxygen is pushed out and anaerobic activity pre­dominates. On the other hand, if there is too little moisture, aerobic activity slows. For this reason, it is important to main­tain adequate moisture levels (40-60% moisture content is ideal). Generally, if you shine a flashlight in after mixing, there should be a slight sheen of moisture on your compost.
Warmth
Too little warmth will cause aerobic activity to slow. Below 13­55F(15C) degrees, microbes will go dormant and composting will stop. Composting speeds increase dramatically with tem­perature.
Characteristics of a Bad Compost
If your compost is over 8 weeks old and it exhibits one or more of the following characteristics , then an operating change is indicated. Extraction required too often (under 4
weeks)
Large Lumps present in compostCompost muddy or clay-likeFlies present (this may also be a problem
with foreign matter being added to unit; see section on flies)
Compost has strong unpleasant smell of
sewage when drum is tur ned.
Toilet paper present in finishing drawer
Troubleshooting
In using this troubleshooting section, you should follow reme­dial actions in the order that they are given, unless you are sure of the problem. You should see improvement in a week, and your compost should be back to normal in 2-3 weeks. If it is not, make sure that “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” is being followed and check the mechanical troubleshooting section.
vent pipe being blocked by condensation which would cause a urine smell in your bathroom.
iii) All connectors in the vent pipe should be sealed.
Use silicone for the connection of the vent stack to
the toilet in case the composting unit has to be moved or you have to access the fan
. PVC cement
may be used in the rest of the stack installation if desir ed.
iv) All exposed 2”(50mm) vent pipe should be insulated with the foam insulation. This is especially
important for winter or residential use to prevent condensation.
v) The Sun-Mar 12 Volt fan is fitted inside a 12”(300mm) length of 4”(100mm) vent pipe for easy
installation, should it be needed. It is installed by either cutting out a section of the vent immediately above the composting unit, or by raising the vent stack off of the composting unit and inserting the fan section. The fan can be used with a solar panel and 12 volt battery, or by purchasing a 12 volt adapter from your local hardware store and simply plugging it into the wall.
As shown in the installation, the vent stack should end about 20-30”(60-90mm) above the peak of the roof so that it is less subject to downdr aft. Where the piping is taken through the roof, the roof flashing provided should be used to seal the instal­lation. Inser t the vent into the bell of the roof flash­ing and slide the roof flashing down until it lays evenly on the roof. Slip the upper edge or the roof flashing flange under the shingles. Outline the flashing on the roof. Raise the roof flashing and apply silicone sealant or roofing tar inside the out­line. Slide the flashing back into place and firmly press onto the sealant. The flashing is properly placed when the top part of the roof flashing flange is tucked under the shingles and the lower portion is sealed on top of the shingles so that water sheds easily. Secure the flashing with corrosion resistant nails at each cor ner and along sides. Any exposed nails should be sealed with silicone caulking.
The diffusor provided with the unit is a simple device to be installed at the top of the vent stack with the larger pipe protruding above the smaller. To install, simply glue the diffusor on the topmost section of vent pipe. The diffusor design encourages updraft, and discour­ages wind and weather from going down the vent stack. Unlike wind turbines, diffusors are less likely to freeze up in winter, and are more effective in calm weather.
A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFI) is recommended to protect your composting unit from electrical problems. This may be installed directly on the wall socket or at the circuit breaker. An example is shown in the picture at the right.
Vent Piping Installation (Cont’d)
Leading the vent through the roof
The Diffusor
Electrical Considerat­ions (Electric and AC/DC)
Chapter 4
Compost Troubleshooting
Page 17
- 19 - - 16 -
Ongoing Toilet Maintenance
The procedure below is designed to keep the compost:
- Moist, but not too wet
- Well aerated and mixed
- Well balanced and aerobic
Add 1 cup(250ml) or 2 handfuls of a mixture of 40% peat moss and 60% non-
antibacterial wood shavings to the Bio-Drum per person per day of use.
Turn Handle to rotate the drum a minimum of 6 complete revolutions ever y second day when in use. Pull the drum locker button and turn the dr um 1/2 turn past its’ resting position to level the compost inside the drum. To prevent a mess, DO NOT forget to return the drum opening to a position under the waste pipe.
Unplug the unit if you are leaving for a period of mor e than a few days. If you are leaving one weekend and coming back the next, you may unplug the unit. If you are leaving for a period of more than a few days, or the compost appears dry, add approximately 1quart(2 liters) of warm water to keep the compost moist.
Remove compost into the finishing drawer when the drum is 1/2 full. It is 1/2 full when the compost reaches a level about 100-150mm below the bottom of the drum door when the door is open. To empty some compost into the drawer,
pullthe drum locker button
and rotate the handle counter-clockwise (to turn the drum cloc kwise). Turn at the same speed you would normally do for mixing. This will fill the finishing drawer. Compost in the drawer should then sit in the drawer, in the unit to finish composting for at least 2 months before the drawer is emptied. If necessary, use the rake to level the com­post in the drawer. If there is not enough compost in the drawer, turn the drum backwards (clockwise) again1 rotation. We recommend storing compost in a container before using.
If your unit is used seasonally and is not used heavily, you may not have to remove any compost at all during the season. If so, follow “Annual Startups”.
- Maintains the carbon/nitrogen balance
- Absorbs liquid
- Helps oxygen penetrate for aerobic composting
- Mixes and oxygenates the compost
- unplugging unit will conserve power and keep compost from drying.
- addition of water helps keep the compost moist
- Moves some compost to the next stage for finishing
- Ensures that the drum does not get
too full
- Provides extra time for composting to be completed
Every Sun-Mar AC/DC and NE model comes with a 12 Volt Fan for installation in the 100mm stack. Its installation is required in the following situations:
-If you are installing both 2”(50mm) and 4”(100mm) vent stacks (pr events downdraft from the 2” or 50mm vent)
-If you are in an area where you are subject to downdraft
-If you are using the unit residentially
-If you need to install the vent stack with bends
We include it because many AC/DC owners do install both vent stacks. It may also be installed later if you wish simply by cutting a section out of your vent and replacing it with the fan.
To install the fan initially, pick a spot on the stack that you can reach easily. In order to get the best evaporative performance from the fan, install it near the composting unit if possible (remember, the fan will still not be enough to evaporate all liq­uids in a non-electric or DC only environment). Once you have placed it where you wish, use silicone caulking, or rubberized couplings, to make the installation airtight. Do not use glue as you may need to change the fan at a later date.
The 12 Volt Fan may be powered with a battery that is connected to a generator, solar panel, or other alternative energy system. For use in AC, purchase a 12 Volt to AC Adapter from any electri­cal store and snip off the female end - wire the positive wire to the red wire on the fan, and the negative wire to the blue wire on the fan. Tie them off with small wire connectors, and plug your AC Adapter into the wall.
The 12 Volt Fan should be continuously running if used, as if it is not running it will act as a block in the vent stack.
12 Volt Fan Installation (AC/DC and NE)
Action Reason for Action
Page 18
- 17 - - 18 -
Annual Start Up (seasonal units only)
Many units are only used regularly throughout the summer. For such seasonal units Sun-Mar recommends that the following start up procedure be followed at the beginning of the season.
Action Reason for Action
Empty the compost that had been left in the finishing drawer, and use the rake
to clean out the evaporation chamber.
Remove additional drawers of compost (if there is more than 6-8” or 150­200mm in the drum), by releasing the drum lock (white button on right side of unit), and rotating the drum clockwise (the handle tur ns counter-clockwise) to extract compost into the drawer. (At the beginning of the season, it will all be fin­ished compost) Empty the drawer and repeat extraction cycle until the level in the drum is reduced to about 6”(150mm).
Add 1 gallon(4 liters) of war m water.
As an option for optimal composting,
Add composting accelerant. We do not recommend using topsoil as it may contain fly larvae.
-
Your fertilizer is ready.
- This is a good time to remove peat debris
-
Frees space in the composting chamber for the new seasons com­posting.
- Raises moisture level
- Even though the compost still has microbes in it, you may want to start the year by replenishing your batch of microbes.
Chapter 3
Start Up and Use
Initial System Start Up
Begin operation by carrying out the star t up procedure described below, and then continue with the “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” routine. It normally takes six weeks before a compost is properly established. You will know this has happened when:
- Compost Volume increases more slowly
- Compost turns black and becomes loam-like
- Toilet paper decomposes within a few days
Action Why?
-Provides carbon base and initial mass for compost.
-Adds necessary microbes which will breakdown the compost.
-Moistens carbon base
-The unit is ready for use
-Until the compost is active, some peat moss may fall through the screen or drum door into the evaporating chamber
Extends the surface area of evaporation chamber
8 gallons(30 liters) of bulking mixture (60% shavings and 40% peat moss) to the drum. Compost accelerant
About 1gallon(4 liters) of warm water into the drum
Fan and heater are operating
Loose peat moss from the evaporating chamber until the compost is established, which takes approximately 6 weeks.
Black evaporating tray under dr um screen to the left of the drawer.
Periodic Check Up
Once your unit has been through initial or annual start-ups, and ongoing maintenance procedures are being followed, Sun-Mar recommends a system of periodic checks be under taken.
Action Reason for Action
Rake solid debris from the evapor ation chamber, making sure to rake from the
rear of the chamber, including the back two corners nearest to the drains of the unit. Raking should occur on a twice yearly basis for cottages (best done at annual startups and half way through the season), and a bi-monthly period for continuous users. Check your compost moisture level on each visit for cottage users and once every two weeks for continuous users. This can be done by shining a light into the Bio-Drum. The compost should have a slight gloss or shine to it. A moisture meter may also be used if so desired. Range should be 4-6, which represents 40% to 60% Pour 1 gallon(4 liters) of warm water down the toilet.
- Ensures drains cannot get plugged and evaporation is improved.
- A good compost is between 40% and
60% moisture content.
- Prevents lumps, ensures toilet paper breaks down quickly.
- Prevents insects
- Ensures waste piping remains free­flowing.
CAUTION
1. Do
NNOOTT
add or clean the toilet bowl with chemicals. Chemicals will kill the bacteria.
IINNSSTTEEAADD
, clean the bowl hot water and baking soda or a weak vinegar and water solution.
2. Do
NNOOTT
add plastic, glass, metal, cleaning fluids, cigarettes. Add only waste and bulking material.
3. Kitchen or garden waste are
NNOOTT
recommended.
*
Toilet paper is a good source of carbon and should be added after use.
ADD
ADD
SPRINKLE
PLUG IN
RAKE
POSITION
Although the start up instructions remain the same no matter what your application, different situations will require different actions and this chapter will explain what they are.
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