Sun-Mar CENTREX 2000 series, CENTREX 2000 AC/DC, CENTREX 2000, CENTREX 2000 NE Owner's Manual

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Serial # ________________

CENTREX 2000 FAMILY

OWNER’S MANUAL

RATED CAPACITY

Weekend & Vacation Use (Cottage Use)

NE Units; 6 Adults Electric Units; 7 Adults

Residential & Continuous Use

NE units: 3 Adults Electric Units; 4 Adults

Standard 41

Certified for liquid containment, odors, and solid end products in cottagel use

Certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 41

CENTREX 2000

CENTREX 2000 AC/DC

CENTREX 2000 NE

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OWNER’S MANUAL

CONTENTS

ntroduction

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

Chapter 3

How your composting toilet Works

How Composting Works The Composting Chamber Compost Finishing Drawer Evaporation Chamber Winter Use CENTREX 2000 Family Part Numbers Wiring Diagram CENTREX 2000 Family Explosion Drawing

Inspection

Check for Damage Check for Parts and Functionality Placement of unit

Installation

CENTREX 2000 Rough in Dimensions Included in your kit Installing the 1 Pint(500ml) Low-Flush Toilet Installation Considerations for The Waste Pipe The 3” (75mm) Waste Inlet Drain Installation Handling Effluent Vent Pipe Location Adjusting the Fan Gate Vent Pipe Installation Leading the Vent through the roof The Diffusor Electrical Considerations 12 Volt Fan Installation

Start Up and Use

Initial System Start Up

2-5

2 2 2 3 3

6 6 6

7-12

7 8

8 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 12

13-15

Chapter 4

Chapter 5

Annual Start Up Periodic Check Up Ongoing Maintenance

Compost Troubleshooting

Aerobic Compost Requirements Compost Too Wet Compost Too Dry Waste not Breaking Down Lumps Drum Too Full Flies

Mechanical Troubleshooting

Urine Odor In Washroom Occasional Urine Odor Outside Sewage Odor when drum turns Fan Noisy Fan Not Working Liquid Buildup/ Lack of Evaporation Overflowing Liquid Heating System Not Working Liquid In Finishing Drawer Drum Will Not Stay Vertical Drum Will Not Turn Drum Door Not Opening/ Closing Waste Not Exiting Waste Pipe

Composting Accessories

WarrantyInformation

Basic Maintenance

Electrical Specifications

14 14 15

16-19

16 17 17 17 18 18 19

20-24

20 21 21 21 22

22 22 23 23 23 24

24 24

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Introduction

HOW YOUR COMPOSTING TOILET WORKS

The key to the success of the “CENTREX 2000 Family” lies in it’s three chamber design. Each of the three chambers; composting, compost finishing, and evaporation have their own independent environments for optimum efficiency.

Composting is a natural recycling process where human waste and toilet paper are broken down by microbes into minerals and converted back to earth. Heat, oxygen, organic material and moisture are needed to transform this waste into good fertilizing soil, perfect for your flower beds. Oxygen is provided by the ventilation system, and by tumbling the composting drum. Additional organic material is introduced by adding “Compost Sure Blue” (or 100% non-antibacterial wood shavings). The waste entering the toilet is approximately 90% water content. Any excess liquid which is not absorbed will collect on the floor of the unit (evaporation chamber) where it may be evaporated into water vapor and carried back to the atmosphere through the venting system. The remaining waste material is transformed into an inoffensive earth-like substance.

The Composting Chamber

The composting chamber is in the form of a Bio-drum which holds the natural compost heat, provides the necessary mass to maintain a good compost, and is rotated by turning the handle to achieve perfect mixing and aeration. During mixing, both the input door and the output doors will remain closed. When the drum returns to the top dead centre position ready to receive more waste, the

input doors remains open. Compost is removed from the drum periodically, by pulling the white drum locker button (on the handle side of the composting unit)out, and turning the handle counter-clockwise so that the drum rotates clockwise. When this is done, the output door stays open, and compost falls into the second chamber;-the compost finishing drawer. To ensure that the compost remains moist, but does not get too wet (between 40 and 60% moisture content is ideal), any excess liquid which the compost cannot absorb drains through a screen in the rear of the drum directly onto an evaporating tray beneath the screen, and from there, overflows into the evaporating chamber. The evaporating tray can be removed periodically to remove peat moss debris that has accumulated.

Compost Finishing Drawer

The compost finishing drawer is at the extreme right of the unit below the composting drum, and just above the evaporating chamber. Compost from the drum is isolated in the drawer where it is allowed to ‘finish’ composting. For seasonally used units, several drawers of finished compost are normally removed at the beginning of the season. Otherwise some composted material can be extracted into the drawer and left there for 3-4 weeks until it is time to remove more compost from the drum.

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Evaporating Chamber

The third chamber is the floor of the Sun-Mar “CENTREX 2000 Family” which forms the evaporation chamber from where excess liquids may be evaporated. You will always see liquid in this area, which is waiting to be evaporated. In electric and AC/DC units, air is pulled through intake holes at the rear of the unit; over the evaporating chamber, and up the 2”(50mm) vent stack which exits from the front of the composting unit when AC power is being used. On non-electric or AC/DC units, when AC power is unavailable, natural draft caused by the chimney effect of the 4”(100mm) vent and assisted by the 12 volt fan draws air into the unit and up the 4”(100mm)vent stack. In the electric mode, the evaporation process is further assisted by a thermostatically controlled heating element in a separate sealed compartment under the evaporating chamber. This heater is on when there is liquid in the evaporating chamber, and mostly off when the chamber is dry. The heating system maintains warmth in the evaporating chamber, and the indirect warmth assists the composting process, without the compost drying out. A safety drain exits from the side of the composter which drains off any excess liquid to a cess pool, recycling bed, or other approved facility.

Winter Use

Because "Sun-Mar" units are made largely of fiberglass and high grade stainless steel, freezing temperatures will not damage the composting unit. Composting action decreases as the temperature drops, so for continuous use, the composting unit should be kept constantly at or above 55-60 degrees F (13-15 C). All exposed vent stack should be insulated (right up to 2" or 5cm below the diffusor) to minimize the condensation in the pipe and avoid ice blockages. Drain pipe should be insulated or, in extreme temperatures, heat tape used to prevent ice blockages. In extreme temperatures, an additional source of heat will also be required. If the compost is frozen in the drum, the unit may be used periodically as a "holding tank", until the compost warms up and the microbes emerge from dormancy. Space should be made in the drum prior to freezing to accommodate winter use. The drum should NOT be rotated when the compost is frozen. Make sure that the composting unit is protected from snow and ice accumulation to ensure that moisture doesn't get into the heater base. It is a good idea to put a tarp over the composting unit to protect it from snow.

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Composting Drum: Waste and bulking mix-

Finishing Drawer: Where compost is put to ‘finish’

Evaporation Chamber: This is where you will frequently see liquid collecting.

Evaporation Tray: Extends the surface area of the evaporation chamber

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EXPLOSION DRAWING OF COMPOSTING UNIT

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CENTREX 2000 FAMILY PART NUMBERS & DESCRIPTIONS

# PART DESCRIPTION # PART DESCRIPTION

PP-INLEP-0207CX Centrex Waste Inlet

(Incl. In Heating Element Kit) Insulation

AO-ACCEP-0481BX Access Port

AO-THERA-0001AX Thermostat

PP-BUSH0-0812XX Bushing Threaded

AO-HEATE-0311XX Heating Element C9286-1

AO-SMALL-0440XX Nylon Drive Gear

PM-ALUMS-0811EX Aluminum Sheet

AO-SHAFA-0851XX SS Shaft Kit

AO-DRUML-0469BX Drum Locker

AO-FAN_A-0315KX Fan Assembly (Electric & AC/DC)

PP-SCRE00-0821EX Drum Locker Knobt

PP-GASK0-0188XX Rubber Gasket

PP-INTAV-0797XX Air Intake Vent

PP_DRUM0-0624CX Centrex 2000 Drum

PF-TANKC-0761EX Centrex 2000 Tank

PP-BEARP-0758RX Bearing Plate

PP-BEARS-0787CX Drum Bearing Strip

PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel

AM-DRUMS-0329EX Drum Screen

AP-DRAI0-0306EX Drain Assembly

AO-DRUMD-2004EX Drum Door

PF-EVAPT-0789EX Evaporating Tray

AO-DRUMD-2004EX Drum Door

PF-DRAW1-0764EX Centrex 2000 Drawer

AO-HANDL-3000EX Swivel Handle

P0-ELECB-0001AX Electric Box Assembly (Electric and AC/DC)

PP-TOPC2-0802BX Centrex 2000 Top Kit

PF-HEAT1-0760EX Centrex 2000 Heater Tray

PP-TOPC2-0802DX Centrex 2000 NE Top

PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel

PP-TOPC2-0802CX Centrex 2000 AC/DC Top

PP-INLEP-0207CX Waste Inlet Pipe

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Chapter 1

Inspection

This chapter describes how to inspect your new Centrex 2000 prior to installation for damage and make sure you have received all of the parts.

Inspecting the unit for damage

i) If there is any visible damage to the carton

the contents of car ton MUST be inspected before signing bill of lading. Damaged units should be refused. Call Sun-Mar immediately.

Before signing the shipping papers and dismissing the driver.

ii)

ensure that the carton contents have been inspected.

If the shipper has left-

iii)

Report the damage immediately to the transport company and call Sun-Mar.

Soon after delivery, remove the Centrex 2000 carefully

iv)

from the carton

If there is hidden damage, or for any service Questions, contact Sun-Mar to determine

the best course of action.

Check Carton Contents and Familiarize Yourself with the Centrex 2000

Placement of Unit

Check that the carton contains the vent stack (pipe, fittings, roof flashing and diffusor); “Compost Sure”, rake, drain hose and fittings, etc. Notify Sun-Mar if you are missing anything. i) Turn the drum handle clockwise to rotate the Bio-Drum for mixing and aeration. (The drum

rotates counter-clockwise and the drum door closes).

TThhiiss iiss hhooww yyoouu wwiillll rroottaattee tthhee ddrruumm..

ii) Lift and remove the access door and rotate the drum until the drum opening is visible

through the the access door opening for adding “Compost Sure Blue”. aadddd ““CCoommp

poosstt SSuurree BBlluuee””ppeeaatt mmoossss mmiixxttuurree ttoo tthhee ddrruumm

TThhiiss iiss hhooww yyoouu wwiillll

iii) Plug the unit’s electrical cord (Electric and AC/DC units) into a standard three-prong elec-

trical outlet, and feel the air movement from the vent outlet at the front of the unit to

ensure the vent system is working properly. v) Pull out the compost finishing drawers at the bottom right of the unit. vi) After the unit has been plugged in for ten minutes, place a hand on the floor of the

evaporating chamber (the area under the finishing drawer) to check it is warm to the

touch, and that the heater is working properly. vii) Affix the “WARNING/CLEANING” sticker to the underside of the toilet seat cover, and check

that another is on the access port of the composting unit.

The unit should be installed so that the base is protected from weather. The rubber “u” channel at the bottom of the unit is well-sealed with silicone, but if the unit is sitting in water, has snow melting against it, or rain pouring on it, this may eventually wear through and short out the heating element. Install your unit with a protective cover of some kind around this area, and do not install the unit in a pit where water can accumulate around it.

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Chapter 2

Installation

ROUGH IN DIMENSIONS

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Included In Your Kit

1- Owners Manual 1- 1 1/2” (38mm)Roof Flashing (Electric & AC/DC) 1- Warranty Card 1- 4” (100mm)Roof Flashing (NE & AC/DC) 1- Evaporation Tray 6- 2” x 30” (50760mm)PVC Pipe (Electric & AC/DC) 1- 8’ 4” (254cm)Drain Pipe 2- Compost Sure 1- Rake 1- 4” Diffusor (100mm)(Electric & AC/DC) 1- 3” (76mm)Centrex 2000 Inlet 1- 6” (150mm) Diffusor (NE & AC/DC) 5- 4” x30” (100x 700mm)ABS Pipe (NE & AC/DC) 1- Centrex 2000 Hardware Kit 1- 12 Volt 2.4 Watt Fan (NE & AC/DC) 1- Centrex NE Hardware Kit (NE & AC/DC)

Installing the “1 Pint” Low Flush Toilet

1. Make sure the center of the floor flange is at least 11 inches (280mm) from the back wall.

2. When Installing a new floor flange, make certain that the toilet mounting bolts align properly with Sealand Traveler toilet mounting pattern.

3. Secure flange to floor using flat head screws through countersunk holes in flange. Insert bolts into slotted holes in flange (Fig. A)

4. If toilet is being installed in a shower stall, apply a 1/4”(6mm) thick

by 3/4”(19mm) wide bead of glazing compound around the circumference of the floor flange (Fig B).

5. Position floor seal by pressing the floor bolts up through the

holes in the seal.

6. Set toilet in place with bolts protruding up through mounting holes

in base (Fig C).

7. Install washers and hex nuts provided with toilet. Tighten nuts

down equally with standard 7/17” (12mm) open end wrench. Remove excess Glazing compound from around base.

8. Connect water supply line to water valve (1/2” or 13mm MPT) inlet

using appropriate fittings (Fig D)

9. Turn on water supply and flush toilet to test for leaks.

10. Attach pedestal and pedal covers to toilet base. See instructions

below.

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Installation Considerations for the waste pipe

The 3” Waste Inlet

Drain Installation

When installing the waste piping from the toilet to the composting unit, the following considerations should be born in mind:i) The piping should be either 45 degrees or more to the vertical (if composting unit is directly below

toilet), or at a 2-3 degree angle (1/8”-1/4” or 3-13mm drop per foot maximum) so that the waste

travels with the liquid. ii) Piping should not slope upwards at any point. iii) Connections should be snug so that waste is not encouraged to “hang up” where pipe meets

connector. iv) It is recommended that the waste pipe not be longer than 15 feet (460cm) without installing a clear

out port(a Y fitting with screw on end cap) near the toilet to provide easy access should it ever be required.

v) Use a soft sealant, such as silicone for the connection of the waste piping to the composting unit so

that the composting unit can be moved for servicing or other reasons should this ever be required. vi) Insulate piping if unit is to be used during the winter.

For heavy winter use, the composting unit will need to be kept warm by enclosing it, insulating the

enclosure, and providing some heat source. The enclosure must not be airtight since the unit must be able to draw air in.

The 3”(75mm) waste inlet (supplied with kit) should be installed where the waste pipe feeds into the composting unit. This assembly will allow the waste to flow into the Bio-Drum without interfering with the drums’ function. If more room is needed in your installation, you can substitute this assembly by constructing your own 3” (75mm) waste assembly from the examples shown below. This assembly can be constructed by using a 3 (75mm)inch coupling or elbow (as shown below) and a piece of 3 inch(75mm) pipe. Glue the pipe into the end of the coupling or elbow that will sit on the composting unit waste inlet opening. Cut this pipe so that only 1/2”(13mm) protrudes from the coupling or elbow. This pipe will fit in the waste inlet hole and should end just above the opening in the drum, without interfering with drum movement.

The drains must be connected for all applications. The 1” (25mm)Safety drains at the left of the “Centrex 2000”, exit to both the front and back. To connect one of the drains, (whichever is convenient), remove the plug, attach the 1”(25mm) hose (included) and secure with a hose clamp. Ensure there are no kinks or upward bends in the drain hose.

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Handling Effluent

The following are possible options to take care of the liquid:

- Use a container which is emptied periodically (water jug or small barrel). This ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a lined pit filled with gravel and sand. Such a recycling

bed also ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a small cesspit or “french drain”.

-Plumb into an existing septic or holding tank line.

Installation should be in accordance with applicable local regulations.

Vent Piping Location

Adjusting the fan gate(Electric and AC/DC)

Vent Piping Installation

If running the vent pipe through a wall, it should be done with an upward sloping angle(as shown in the picture below). There should be NO horizontal or downward sloping sections. Installing the vent pipe with horizontal or downward sloping sections will result in a urine odor around the composting unit. Below are some examples of a desireable installation. If the unit will be used in colder weather, all exposed 2” vent pipes should be insulated to reduce freezing and condensation.

The vent on the right is a 4” (100mm) non-electric vent. All others show possible 2” (50mm) Centrex 2000 (electric) vent configurations.

If you believe that there may be a downdraft outside of the building, it may be a good idea to remove your fan assembly prior to installation and set the fan gate to ‘0’ to prevent urine odor in the bathroom. The fan gate is factory set to ‘3’, which recirculates air within the unit. If there is a downdraft you may get blow back into the room where the unit is installed. When setting the fan gate to ‘0’, you may lose some evaporation.

Piping and fittings are of standard 2” PVC thin wall tubing(central vacuum) and/or 4” (100ml) ABS thin wall pipe. Additional pipe or fittings can be purchased from a building supply dealer. If you cannot find them near your location, you can substitute schedule 40 pipe and use a rubber coupling to join this pipe to the unit. i) Minimize the number of sharp angles in the 2” (50ml) vent as each reduces vent efficiency. The

4”(100ml) vent should be installed as near to vertical as possible. It is recommended if it is necessary to have angles in the 4” (100ml) vent pipe that 45 degree angles are used whenever possible. On the 4” (100ml) DC stack, bends should be limited to 2 - 45 degree angles. will necessitate the installation of a 12 volt fan.

ii) Do not lead the 2” (50ml) vent pipe downward or horizontally at any point. This may lead to the

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Vent Piping Installation (Cont’d)

Leading the vent through the roof

The Diffusor

Electrical Considerations (Electric and AC/DC)

vent pipe being blocked by condensation which would cause a urine smell in your bathroom.

iii) All connectors in the vent pipe should be sealed.

Use silicone for the connection of the vent stack to

the toilet in case the composting unit has to be moved or you have to access the fan

. PVC cement

may be used in the rest of the stack installation if desired.

iv) All exposed 2” vent pipe should be insulated with the foam insulation. This is especially important

for winter or residential use.

v) The Sun-Mar 12 Volt fan is fitted inside a 11” (280mm) length of 4”(100mm) vent pipe for easy

installation, should it be needed. It is installed by either cutting out a section of the vent immediately above the composting unit, or by raising the vent stack off of the composting unit and inser ting the fan section. The fan can be used with a solar panel and 12 volt battery, or by purchasing a 12 volt adapter from your local hardware store and simply plugging it into the wall.

As shown in the installation, the vent stack should end about 30” (75mm)above the peak of the roof so that it is less subject to downdraft. Where the piping is taken through the roof, the roof flashing provided should be used to seal the installation. Inser t the vent into the bell of the roof flashing and slide the roof flashing down until it lays evenly on the roof. Slip the upper edge or the roof flashing flange under the shingles. Outline the flashing on the roof. Raise the roof flashing and apply silicone sealant or roofing tar inside the outline. Slide the flashing back into place and firmly press onto the sealant. The flashing is properly placed when the top par t of the roof flashing flange is tucked under the shingles and the lower portion is sealed on top of the shingles so that water sheds easily. Secure the flashing with corrosion resistant nails at each corner and along sides. Any exposed nails should be sealed with silicone caulking.

The diffusor provided with the unit is a simple device to be installed at the top of the vent stack with the larger pipe protruding above the smaller. To install, simply glue the diffusor on the topmost section of vent pipe. The diffusor design encourages updraft, and discourages wind and weather from going down the vent stack. Unlike wind turbines, diffusors are less likely to freeze up in winter, and are more effective in calm weather.

A ground fault interrupter (GFI) circuit is recommended to protect your composting unit from electrical problems. This may be installed directly on the wall socket or at the circuit breaker.

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12 Volt Fan Installation (AC/DC and NE)

Every Sun-Mar AC/DC and NE model comes with a 12 Volt Fan for installation in the 4” stack. Its installation is required in the following situations:

-If you are installing both 2” (50mm)and 4” (100mm)vent stacks (prevents downdraft from the 4” (100mm) vent in the AC/DC units)

-If you are in an area where you are subject to downdraft

-If you are using the unit residentially

-If you need to install the vent stack with bends

We include the 12 volt fan with the AC/DC unit because many AC/DC owners do install both vent stacks. It may also be installed later if you wish simply by cutting a section out of your vent and replacing it with the fan.

To install the fan initially, pick a spot on the stack that you can reach easily. In order to get the best evaporative performance from the fan, install it near the composting unit if possible (remember, the fan will still not be enough to evaporate all liquids in a non-electric or DC only environment). Once you have placed it where you wish, use silicone caulking, or rubberized couplings, to make the installation airtight. Do not use glue at this area as you may need to change the fan at a later date.

The 12 Volt Fan may be powered with a battery that is connected to a generator, solar panel, or other alternative energy system. For use in AC, purchase a 12 Volt to AC Adapter from any electrical store and snip off the female end - wire the positive wire to the red wire on the fan, and the negative wire to the blue wire on the fan. Tie them off with small wire connectors, and plug your AC Adapter into the wall.

The 12 Volt Fan should be continuously running if used, as if it is not running it will act as a block in the vent stack.

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One full bag peat mix to the drum.

1/2 Microbe Mix packet at start up, other 1/2 in two weeks

About 1 gallon of warm water into the drum Fan and heater are operating “Compost Quick” enzymes into drum before and after mixing. Coat the evaporation chamber with it before using the unit.

Loose bulking mixture from the evaporating chamber until the compost is established, which takes approximately 6 weeks.

Black evaporating tray under drum screen to the left of the drawer.

-Provides carbon base and initial mass for compost.

-Adds necessary microbes which will breakdown the compost.

-Moistens carbon base

-The unit is ready for use

-Speeds start up of compost by acting as a catalyst to assist bacteria.

-Prevents possibility of star t-up odor in the evaporating chamber.

-Until the compost is active, some peat moss may fall through the screen or drum door into the evaporating chamber Extends the surface area of evaporation chamber

Chapter 3

Start Up and Use

Although the start up instructions remain the same no matter what your application, different situations will require different actions and this chapter will explain what they are.

Initial System Start Up

Begin operation by carrying out the start up procedure described below, and then continue with the “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” routine. It normally takes six weeks before a compost is properly established. You will know this has happened when:

- Compost Volume increases more slowly

- Compost turns black and becomes loam-like

- Toilet paper decomposes within a few days

Action Why?

ADD

SPRINKLE PLUG IN SPRAY

RAKE

POSITION

CAUTION

1. Do

NNOOTT

add or clean the toilet bowl with chemicals. Chemicals will kill the bacteria.

IINNSSTTEEAADD

, clean the bowl liner with”Compost Quick”, or very hot water and baking soda.

2. Do

NNOOTT

add plastic, glass, metal, cleaning fluids, cigarettes. Add only waste and bulking material.

3. Kitchen or garden waste are

NNOOTT

recommended.

4. Do

NOT

add baby wipes of feminine paper as they will not compost.

Toilet paper is a good source of carbon and should be added after use.

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Annual Start Up (seasonal units only)

Many units are only used regularly throughout the summer. For such seasonal units Sun-Mar recommends that the following start up procedure be followed at the beginning of the season.

Action Reason for Action

Empty the compost that had been left in the finishing drawer, and use the rake to

clean out the evaporation chamber.

Remove additional drawers of compost (if there is more than 6 - 8” in the drum), by releasing the drum lock (white button on right side of unit), and rotating the drum clockwise (the handle turns counter-clockwise) to extract compost into the drawer. (At the beginning of the season, it will all be finished compost) Empty the

drawer and repeat extraction cycle until the level in the drum is reduced to about 6”

Add 1 gallon of warm water. As an option for optimal composting,

Add SUN-MAR “Microbe Mix” . We do not recommend using topsoil as it may contain fly larvae.

SUN-MAR “Compost Quick” enzyme can also be used as a compost accelerant.

Your fertilizer is ready.

- This is a good time to remove peat debris

Frees space in the composting chamber for the new seasons composting.

- Raises moisture level

- Even though the compost still has microbes in it, you may want to start the year by replenishing your batch of microbes.

- Compost Quick helps to accelerate the action of the microbes.

Periodic Check Up

Once your unit has been through initial or annual start-ups, and ongoing maintenance procedures are being followed, Sun-Mar recommends a system of periodic checks be undertaken.

Action Reason for Action

Rake peat moss debris from the evaporation chamber, making sure to rake from

the rear of the chamber, including the back two corners of the unit. Raking should occur on a twice yearly basis for cottages (best done at annual startups), and a bimonthly period for continuous users. Check your compost moisture level on each visit for cottage users and once every two weeks for continuous users. This can be done by shining a light into the Bio-Drum. The compost should have a slight gloss or shine to it. A moisture meter may also be used if so desired. Range should be 4-6, which represents 40% to 60% Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is located to the left of the drawer. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit for 15 minutes (this will help to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrusted). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush. If brushing the screen does not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screwdriver or nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen.

- Ensures drains cannot get plugged and

evaporation is improved.

- A good compost is between 40% and

60% moisture content.

- Prevents lumps, ensures toilet paper breaks down quickly.

- Prevents insects

- Prevents liquid from accumulating in the drum.

- Keeps compost from getting anaerobic.

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Ongoing Toilet Maintenance

The procedure below is designed to keep the compost:

- Moist, but not too wet

- Well aerated and mixed

- Well balanced and aerobic

- Maintains the carbon/nitrogen balance

- Absorbs liquid

- Helps oxygen penetrate for aerobic composting

- Mixes and oxygenates the compost

- unplugging unit will conserve power and keep compost from drying.

- addition of water helps keep the compost moist

- Moves some compost to the next stage for finishing

- Ensures that the drum does not get

too full

- Provides extra time for composting to be completed

Add 1 cupful (or 2 handfuls) of Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue(or100% non-antibacterial wood shavings) to the Bio-Drum per person per day of use.

Turn Handle to rotate the drum 6 complete revolutions(36 - 40 turns of the handle), three times a week when in use, or, if used only at weekends, only on departure. DO NOT forget to return the drum opening to a position under the

waste pipe. Unplug the unit if you are leaving for a period of more than a few days. If you are leaving one weekend and coming back the next, you may unplug the unit. Consider installing a timer to shut the unit off after 48 hours to evaporate excess liquid. If you are leaving for a period of more than a few days, or the compost appears dry, add approximately 1/2 gallon of warm water to keep the compost moist.

Extract some compost into the finishing drawer when the drum is 1/2 full. It is 1/2 full when the compost reaches a level about 4-6 inches below the drum door when the door is open. To empty some compost into the drawer, pull the drum locker button and rotate the handle counter-clockwise (to turn the drum clockwise). Turn at the same speed you would normally do for mixing. If necessary, use the rake to level the compost in the drawer. If there is not enough compost in the drawer, turn the drum backwards (clockwise) again 1 rotation. Leave the compost in the finishing drawer to finish for 3-4 weeks or until you next need to remove compost from the drum. We recommend storing compost in a container before using.

If your unit is used seasonally and is not used heavily, you may not have to remove any compost at all during the season. If so, follow “Annual Startups”.

Action Reason for Action

**Sealand Toilet users;

Removal of the Sealand Water Valve is advised for winter months where the toilet portion may be exposed to freezing temperatures. The plastic housing of the water valve will crack if any moisture is left inside, necessitating the replacement of this part which is NOT covered under your warranty.

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Chapter 4

Compost Troubleshooting

This chapter will deal with problem that may arise with your compost, what is required to make your compost healthy and how to correct problems if they arise.

Aerobic Compost Requirements

In a Sun-Mar, a good compost is predominantly aerobic, which means that oxygen is available for aerobic bacteria throughout the Bio-drum. Aerobic bacteria consume waste quickly and odorlessly to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor and leave behind a small fraction of the original waste volume in the form of basic minerals. The end compost is a mix of valuable minerals and bulking material that has not decomposed.

To work effectively to break down waste, aerobic bacteria need oxygen, moisture, available carbon (from the bulking material), and warmth.

In a Sun-Mar, oxygen is provided by the tumbling of the drum and the bulking material leaving free air space within the compost. Moisture is provided by the waste, and is made available to aerobic bacteria by the moisture retention properties of the bulking material. If the compost is too dry, add warm water.

In summary, to keep the compost aerobic, it is important to rotate the drum, add bulking material, and keep the compost moist.

Oxygen

Lack of oxygen becomes a problem where:

- Too much moisture eliminates the free air space,

- A lack of bulking material limits free air space,

- Aerobic bacteria use up oxygen in the compost.

Lack of oxygen causes the compost to become increasingly anaerobic, which means that aerobic bacteria are displaced by anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria work slowly and produce undesirable ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, and methane. Consequently, the maintenance of ‘free air’ space by periodically rotating the drum and adding the right bulking material is very important in Sun-Mar units. Excessive rotation is not helpful and can harm the compost by disturbing the bacteria too much.

Moisture

If there is too much moisture, and the compost is approaching saturation, oxygen is pushed out and anaerobic activity predominates. On the other hand, if there is too little moisture, aerobic activity slows. For this reason, it is important to maintain adequate moisture levels (40-60% moisture content is ideal). Generally, if you shine a flashlight in after mixing, there should be a slight sheen of moisture on your compost.

Warmth

Too little warmth will cause aerobic activity to slow. Below 5560 degrees F., microbes will go dormant and composting will stop. Composting speeds increase dramatically with temperature.

Characteristics of a Bad Compost

If your compost is over 8 weeks old and it exhibits one or more of the following characteristics , then an operating change is indicated.

 Extraction required too often (under 4

weeks)

 Large Lumps present in compost  Compost muddy or clay-like  Flies present (this may also be a problem

with foreign matter being added to unit; see section on flies)

 Compost has strong unpleasant smell of

sewage when drum is turned.

 Toilet paper present in finishing drawer

Troubleshooting

In using this troubleshooting section, you should follow remedial action in the order that they are given, unless you are sure of the problem. You should see improvement in a week, and your compost should be back to normal in 2-3 weeks. If it is not, make sure that “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” is being followed and check the mechanical troubleshooting section.

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Page 18

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Use Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue 100% wood shavings as a bulking material.

Rotate the drum as advised. Do not allow the drum to become too full.

Follow section on moisture in “PERIODIC CHECKUP”.

Use toilet for urination.

Add correct bulking material.

Be sure to add Microbe Mix packet at startup.

Install unit in warm area. The warmer the area, the better your compost will be! If evening temperatures fall below the prescribed temperatures on a residential unit, consider installing a heat source on a timer for evenings. Never add bleach or cleaning chemicals.

Add water or flush toilet to moisten compost.

Compost Too Wet

Your compost is too wet when there are standing pools of liquid. Compost will smell of sewage and is anaerobic

Compost Too Dry

Compost is too dry when compost looks flat and brown rather than rich and black.

Waste not Breaking Down at all

If this is the case, the drum will fill up quickly

Compost porosity is poor. Too much peat moss has been used as a bulking material. This is compacting, preventing liquid from draining through, and leaving no free air space for oxygen. Drum screen clogged

Moisture not being added periodically or before departure on cottage units. Toilet not used for urination. Insufficient bulking material or not enough peat moss.

Insufficient Microbes

Room Temperature under 60F/15C

Bleach or other antibacterial chemicals added. Compost too dry

For an immediate improvement in porosity add about 1/2 (2 liters) gallon of wood shavings, (not anti-bacterial) to the drum.

On an ongoing basis, change bulking material to Compost Sure Blue or 100% wood shavings.

Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is to the left of the finishing drawer opening. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let set for 15 minutes. With a long handled wire brush, vigorously scrub the drum screen.

Add 1/2 to 1 gallon (2-4 liters)of warm water to compost in order to bring it up to appropriate moisture level.

Peat moss retains moisture. 40-60% moisture content is ideal for aerobic microbes to thrive.

Add Sun-Mar Microbe Mix

Install heat source to increase temperature. Temperature should be kept above 55-60F/15C constantly if toilet will be used on an ongoing basis.

Empty drum. Hose out inside of drum. Restart compost according to “Initial System Startups”.

Bacteria need moisture to live and move within the compost. Compost should be quite moist, 40-60% moisture content.

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Page 19

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Waste not Breaking Down at all (cont'd’)

Lumps

If many large lumps have formed in drum, you will need to remove them or break them up with the rake tool. Follow the prevention column to ensure this does not happen.

Antibiotics being used for more than a few weeks on a continuous basis may kill bacteria

Compost Too Dry

Over-Rotation of Drum

Peat moss used as bulking material with no wood shavings.

Empty drum. Rinse out inside of drum, being careful that liquid does not overflow out of the drawer opening. Restart compost according to “Initial System Startups”.

Follow instructions for “Compost Too Dry” on page 17. And also add 1/2 gallon (2 liters) of warm water.

Follow “ONGOING TOILET MAINTENANCE” on page 15, and also add 1/2 gallon(2 liters) of wood shavings.

Begin using 100% wood shavings, as bulking material.

When used normally, antibiotics will only slightly slow compost. Add Sun-Mar Microbe Mix and/or Compost Quick during this period to accelerate compost action. Urinating elsewhere during this period will also help minimize the damage to the compost.

Follow recommendations for checking and adding moisture in “PERIODIC CHECKUP”.

Drum should be turned every second day (when in use), 6 rotations of the drum (36-40 of handle) each time.

Use proper bulking material.

Drum Too Full

Note: The drum is too full when it is over 1/2 full, and the door is not closing properly.

Compost not emp-

tied into finishing drawer in a timely fashion.

Kitchen/Garden Waste added

1. Remove compost until drum is only half full or less. Rotate compost thoroughly to aerate, and add compost accelerants (Compost Quick and Microbe Mix) if available.

2. If you need to dump more than one drawer of compost, and you do not already have a suitable backyard compost heap, you may try an open-slatted wooden crate (such as the kind used to pack age fruits and vegetables). Layer compost with bulking material and leave crate outside for around 2 months to finish composting.

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When drum is 1/2 full, remove some compost to the finishing drawer by rotating the drum backwards, to avoid surprise over-filling of drum. Do NOT let drum get above 1/2 full. (The drum is 1/2 full when the level of the compost reaches 4-6 inches(100-150mm) below where the drum door hangs) This will lead to lack of aeration, and anaerobic compost, and the inconvenience of having to remove more than one drawer.

Do Not add kitchen or garden waste.

Page 20

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

1 .To get rid of flies, you can use any pesticide

that is used on your garden. Pesticides used for garden use are not anti-bacterial so are safe to use on your compost. If you prefer not to use a pesticide in your compost, the unit should be cleaned out completely and washed

with soapy water to kill any remaining eggs. Once the unit is washed, it should be rinse well to remove all traces of soap before restarting the compost. If using a pesticide to kill the insects, it maybe purchased from a local garden center or hardware store.

2. Natural larvacide that can be used in the compost is bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or BT i.

This is a natural aerobic bacteria that is found in

soil. The fly larvae ingest this bacteria.Once BT i

has been ingested by the larvae, it releases a crystal in the larvae that essentially cuts the larvae up. This does take about 2 weeks to work

since it kills the larvae, not the adult flies. This

can by purchased at stores that sell pond sup-

plies. The product name is Aqua-Bac or there is another called Mosquito Dunks that is available to consumers. Either of these products should

be dissolved in water and used as a soak for the

compost. This should be repeated every 2 days

for a week to make sure that all larvae are cov-

ered.

3. The other alternative to using pesticides is to completely clean the toilet out, wash the inside with soap and water

IMPORTANT: Application of a pesticide in a Sun-Mar composter is not a health concern because all Sun-Mar units are vented. If using pesticides, avoid spilling on the outer shell of the composter.

1. Keep compost moist. In order to determine a good level of mois ture, shine a flashlight into the drum. The compost should have a slight gloss or shine. If it does not, add warm water to it until it reaches this consistency. Fungus gnats tend to be attracted to a dry compost, due to the fungus which begins to form on the sur face when it dries out. A good, moist compost will not be attrac tive to flies.

2. Do not add topsoil from the ground, composted matter, or kitchen scraps to the toilet. Flies may be present in, or attracted to these items.

3. If toilet is installed over an old septic line,make sure that the lines are well sealed. Insects find unused lines attractive.

4.See “Compost Remediation” if the compost smells- anaerobic com post will attract flies and drastical ly reduce the performance of your composting unit.

5. Use “Compost Sure Blue” or a

mixture of peat moss and non-cedar wood shavings.

-compost too dry

-compost anaerobic

-kitchen/garden waste added

-foreign material added

Flies Present

Page 21

Chapter 5

MECHANICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING

Most problems are prevented through proper maintenance and the use of proper bulking materials in the composting unit. If you do have a problem, the Trouble Shooting section will help you solve it. If you still have further questions, contact technical service at Sun-Mar for advice at 1-888-341-0782

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Urine Odor Around Unit

Horizontal runs or downward slopes on pipe are causing condensate to block pipe.

Fan has failed (110 volt) (Electric and AC/DC)

Fan has failed (12 volt) (AC/DC and NE)

Device other than Sun-Mar diffuser is installed on top of the vent stack

Room where unit is located is airtight.

2” Vent stack has too many bends and/or horizontal lengths. (Electric and AC/DC)

Re-install the vent so there are no longer any low points where condensate can collect. If re-installation is not possible, drill a small hole in the bottom of the low point (preferable outdoors) to allow condensate to drain. (Note: watch for icing in winter at this hole.)

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a replacement. Instructions are included with the replacement fan.

Remove and replace fan. Fan should be on when installed. When it is turned off it forms an obstruction in the vent.

Wind turbines or vent caps may be discouraging air movement. If so, replace with a Sun-Mar diffuser.

1. Hold a lighter up to the air intake holes on the back of the unit. Air should be drawn into the holes. If air is not easily pulled in, check venting for too many bends or horizontal lengths and/or provide more ventilation to the room.

2. Install fresh air intakes on any competing

appliances.

1. Re-install the vent stack to reduce the number

of bends/eliminate horizontal lengths.

2. If the vent stack cannot be fur ther straight-

ened, remove the fan assembly and reduce

the amount of recirculating air by covering up the area between the fan exhaust and the 90

degree vent intake elbow with duct tape or similar.

Install wall brackets on vent pipe to prevent settling. DO NOT install horizontal runs as liquid will collect and block ventilation, causing odor.

The fan is a constantly moving part and has a finite service life.

Wind turbines or vent caps should not be installed on or, instead of a Sun-Mar diffuser.

Install your CENTREX 2000 in an area with plenty of ventilation and watch for competing appliances such as bathroom fans and wood stoves.

Install the vent with minimal bends (total bends should equal no more than 360 degrees) and NO horizontal or downward slopes.

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Page 22

- 21 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Occasional Urine Odor Outside

Strong Sewage Odor Present when drum turns

Fan Noisy (Electric and AC/DC)

Fan Not Working (Electric and AC/DC)

1. Vent stack not installed even

with peak of roof.

2. If vent stack is installed above roofline, natural obstructions, such as tall trees, being located in a valley or close to a hill may be causing downdraft.

Compost is anaerobic

Fan damaged in shipping, or bearings are beginning to wear if it is rattling.

Fan vibrations resonating in vent pipe (12 Volt Fan)

Debris in fan or Mechanical Failure.

1. Check that the vent is installed 2-3 feet (600900mm) above the peak of the roof. If not, extend the vent. Guide wires may be necessary.

2. Add lime to the evaporation chamber; as much as you think necessary. You will have

to rake more often if you do this. You can also add lime to the compost if desired, but no more than 1/2 cup(250ml) per week as it may upset the PH balance in larger amounts.

3. Sun-Mar has a filter box available which will filter the ammonia out of the vented air in a downdraft situation. Call Sun-Mar for details.

Drum too full.

Handle not turned enough.

Incorrect bulking mixture used

1. If it is rattling, it may need to be cleaned or

the bearings are worn and the fan needs to

be replaced.

2. A hum is the normal sound the fan will make.

If you are in a very quiet setting it will be more noticeable. If this is the case, consider purchasing a fan speed control so that the fan may be turned down when the noise bothers you.

3. If it is a vibration noise, you may need to tie

down the top of the stack with guide wires and bracket the pipe that runs up the side of

the structure. Use pipe clamps to secure vent pipe or install fan with rubberized couplings to help absorb vibrations.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar.

Downdraft is dependent on wind direction, as well as natural obstructions, etc. Initially, install the vent 2-3 feet (600-900mm)above the peak of the roof. If symptoms occur, add lime or a filter box.

Ideally, drum should be maintained at 1/2 full. Drum should be turned every second day, 6 complete turns of the drum (36-40 turns of the handle) Use Compost Sure Blue or 100% non-antibacterial wood shavings Clean the fan with a small brush and/or compressed air nozzle once every 2-3 years in cottage use, or once a year residentially. To do this, remove the fan assembly by taking off the snap cap covers and unscrewing the screws which hold it in. The entire assembly will then simply slide out. This will prevent wear and lengthen the life of your fan.

The fan is a continuously moving part which will eventually have to be changed. Do Not turn on and off daily.

Page 23

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Liquid Buildup/ Lack of Evaporation

Overflowing Liquid From Drawer Opening

Increased usage

Failure of heating system Mineral salts may have accumulated in the evaporation chamber over a few years, reducing evaporation rates. Overflow drain not hooked up Unit tipped forward or to the right

Drains Blocked

The amount of liquid varies substantially between installations. The overflow drain needs to be installed on all Centrex 2000 with low-flush toilets. Check “heating not working”

To get rid of these, fill the evaporation chamber with very hot water and 1/3 bottle of “Compost Quick” enzyme liquid. Leave overnight. Drain all Liquid through the overflow drain by tipping the unit to the left (make sure overflow is hooked up first) Connect overflow safety drain (See also increased usage above) Check and ensure that the unit is level or tilting slightly towards the left by placing a 1/4” - 1/2” (6-13mm)shim piece under the right side of the unit.

1. Rake peat mix away from left two corners

of Centrex 2000 Family. These are the

“buildup” areas. Use ‘hook’ end of rake to

pull debris from under drain baffles.If

drains are still clogged, proceed to step 2.

2. Check drain line for kinks, blockages or

upward bends. Remove and flush if blockages

present, unkink if bent and ensure that the

drain pipe is sloping downward. If your

drain pipe is in order, proceed to step 3.

3. Use a wire to poke peat moss out of the drain

assembly at the back. You will notice if this

is clogged because you will see a brown spot

through the opaque drain assembly. (Only

peat would make it through the drum

screen). If there is no peat clog, or the

problems continue, backwash the unit quickly

with a hose by applying the nozzle to one of

the drain assemblies and turning it on and off

very quickly. If the bottom of the unit is full of

liquid, you may wish to remove some prior to

back-washing. A shop-vac works well.

Install the overflow drain.

Rake evaporating chamber vigorously at spring startups for cottage use, and once every other month for residential use.

1. A clogged drain is not very likely to happen if you rake your

evaporating chamber 1-2 times a season (cottage use) and 3-4 per year times for continuous use.

2. Use premium 1” (25mm) ID hose for the drain line. A good hose will be less likely to kink. Use elbows or fittings around

bends to prevent kinks.

3. Use Compost Sure Blue as your bulking material.

4. Make sure that the evaporation

tray is installed properly(underneath the drum screen, with lip pointing towards drawer and lowest end pointing towards the drains (to the left).

Page 24

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Heating System Not Working (Electric and AC/DC)

Liquid in Finishing Drawer

Drum Will Not Stay Vertical

Test to determine whether failure has occurred

Thermostat Failure

Heating Element Failure

Drum Screen Clogged

Unit tilted to wrong side

Condensation running down vent stack

Drum Locker Broken

Pull drawer out and put your hand in the evaporation chamber (Not in the liquid). If there is no warmth rising from the floor of the unit, your heating system is not working. It is most commonly the thermostat that has failed. If you notice a lack of evaporation, but there is still warmth in the heating chamber, see “Liquid Buildup” for solutions. Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a replacement. (Detailed instructions are included with the replacement part) If the insulation behind the thermostat access cover is moist or discolored, or heating does not work after the new thermostat has been connected, then the heating element has failed. Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a replacement. (Detailed instructions are included with the replacement part) Please note: Because this part is not easy to replace, and because there is far less chance that you will need this part than a thermostat; we recommend trying to replace the thermostat first.

Remove the finishing drawer. By reaching through the opening, you should be able to access the drum screen. Scrub vigorously with a wire brush. Use a 1/4” to 1/2” (6-12mm) wedge piece under the right side of the unit to drain liquid more easily towards the overflow drain of the unit. Liquid will be clear or yellowish in appearance. Make sure all vent pipe exposed to the outdoor is well insulated and there are no horizontal runs.

Have serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a replacement part.

A ground fault interrupt circuit is recommended to protect your Centrex 2000 from power surges if your heating system malfunctions.

Your thermostat and fan are the two constantly moving parts on the unit, and so are the most likely to fail. Both are fairly easy to replace.

DO NOT wash the outside of the unit with a hose or pressure washer. Install the unit so that ground water or weather cannot get at the base of the unit.

When returning the drum to top dead center position, do not bang against drum locker with excessive force. Remember to pull out the drum locker button before rotating the drum backwards.

Page 25

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Drum Will Not Turn

Set screw securing handle to shaft has broken

1. Drill out set screw and use tap to re-thread hole.

2. Replace with Screw #10-32x 1 1/4" Hex Socket Stainless Steel set.

3. If unavailable, call Sun-Mar for a replace-

ment. Serial number of the Centrex 2000

will be required.

Drum Door Not Opening/ Closing Properly

Waste Not Exiting Waste Pipe or Gas Bubbles at Toilet

Steel pin securing gear wheel to shaft has broken

Drum fallen from bearings.

Drum too full

Hinges Stuck

Waste pipe blocked

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a replacement Small Gear Kit.

Have your serial number ready. If the drum has fallen, contact Sun-Mar immediately. Serial number of the Centrex 2000 will be required.

See Section on “Compost Troubleshooting- Drum Too Full”

Drum Hinges have compost caked on them. Spray with Compost Quick and clean with nylon brush. This will push the obstruction away so the door swings freely.

1. Ensure piping installation remains as per “Installation Instructions” (See earlier sec-

tion), and modify if necessary.

2. Follow “Periodic Check Up” recommenda-

tions and options.

3. If still blocked, install clear-out port as per

“Instructions” (See earlier section) and

clear with plumbing snake.

Keep composting drum from becoming overloaded. This puts undue strain on the nylon gear.

Not a common repair.

Drum should never be more than 1/2 full.

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Page 26

ACCESSORY ITEMS FOR COMPOSTING

Solution containing a mixture of enzymes designed to facilitate bacterial activity. Also useful as a cleaner.

16 oz. (454 gm)

“Compost Quick”

$15.50

SUN-MAR has developed a number of composting accessory items over the years in response to frequent requests from users. These items may serve to improve composting speeds under some circumstances.

Name Description Container Price*

$16.00

Special selected dried bacteria to decompose waste also includes dried enzymes

16 oz, (454 gm) Jar

“Microbe Mix”

“Compost Sure Blue”

Bulking material containing 100% chopped hemp stalk to provide moisture retention, porosity, and free air space within the compost. 30 litre (8 USG) /bag

$15.00

Prices do not include freight -

Please call for current freight charges before ordering or on-line at www.sun-mar.com

Prices subject to change.

Note:

If the peat moss you are using is powdery and fine, it will result in poor porosity and an excessively wet, oxygen deficient compost. You should change or modify your bulking material. This situation is most likely to happen with central units which are exposed to a lot of flushing liquid. Modify by switching to wood shavings, or use “Compost Sure Blue” for optimum results.

Page 27

WARRANTY

SUN-MAR Corp. warrants the original purchaser that this toilet is free from defects in material and workmanship under normal house or cottage use. SUN-MAR Corp. will furnish new parts for any part that fails within three years or 5 years on the fibreglass tank, provided that our inspection shows that such failure is due to defective material or workmanship. Any part supplied by us to replace another part is warranted for the balance of the original warranty period.

This warranty does not cover:

1. Damage resulting from neglect, abuse, accident or alteration; or damage caused by fire, flood, acts of God or any other casualty.

2. Parts and accessories not sold or manufactured by SUN-MAR Corp. or any damage resulting from the use of such items.

3. Damage or failure resulting from failure of the purchaser to follow normal operating proce-

dure outlined in the Owner’s Manual or in any other printed instructions.

4. Labor and services charges incurred in the removal and replacement of any parts found

defective under the terms of this warranty.

5. All returns to the factory must by made freight prepaid. All shipments from the factory are

made F.O.B. the factory.

This warranty is in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied, and no person is authorized to enlarge our warranty responsibility, which is limited to the terms of this certificate. The Company reserves the right to change, improve or modify its products without obligation to install these improvements on equipment previously manufactured.

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Page 28

BBaassiicc MMaaiinntteennaannccee IInnssttrruuccttiioonnss

Sealand toilet and 'Centrex Family' Central Units

The toilet is porcelain and should be cleaned with hot water or bio-degradable products to avoid damage to the compost. If required 'Compost Quick' or Baking Soda can be used diluted in hot water.

Three times a week weekly maintenance (every second day):

Turn drum to reveal waste inlet hole through access port and add compost mix at the rate of @ 1 cupful (250ml) per person per day. (Scoop provided is 2 cups or 500ml) Rotate handle clockwise to mix contents of Bio-drum and give 6 complete revolutions of the drum - (3640 rotations of the handle). Ensure that the drum door opening is in the vertical position at the end after hearing the 'click' of the catch. Spray 'Compost Quick' into the drum before and after mixing.

Check compost volume and co

ndition in Bio-ddrum and:

If the waste in the Bio-drum is too wet add wood shavings and check your drum screen for blockages to improve aeration. To speed up composting, add one scoop of Microbe Mix every second week, and ensure that the drum is not more than 1/2 full. If the drum is too full, follow the instructions to extract compost (page 15).

Monthly maintenance and emptying cycle:

Rake out evaporation chamber with rake provided (the area below the finishing drawer). The black evaporating tray should be removed, solid matter tipped into the finishing tray and then replaced beneath the drum screen. Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer, the drum screen is to the left of the drawer on the bottom of the drum. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit for 15 minutes (this will help to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrusted). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush. If brushing the screen does not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screwdriver or nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen. Attention: the composti

ng unit must remain plugged in to an electrical outlet continuously to function

odorlessly

. The AC/DC units should have both fans running while used in electric mode to prevent recirculation between vent stacks. If you will be away from the residence where the composting unit is installed for longer than three days, the power may be disconnected while the composting unit lays dormant.

Page 29

Electrical Specifications

Centrex 2000 2000NE 2000 Maximum Amps 3.6 NA 3.6/NA Fan Watts (Required or Optional Hook-up) Heater Watts (When on) Average Power Use In Watts (Heater on 1/2 time)

35 req. 1.4 opt.

370 NA 370

200 NA 200

AC/DC

35 req./

2.4 opt.

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Page 30

- 29 -

Getting Ready for Winter

No Winter Use

Just add water. Lots of water. Soak the compost in the drum to prevent it from drying out before Spring. Make sure to unplug the unit.

Occasional Winter Use

If the unit will be used for 3-4 weekend throughout the winter season then it is considered occasional use. When the temperature dips below 55 degrees F (13 C), composting activity will decrease dramatically. These units do not need to be kept warm and will act only as a holding tank during the winter months until they warm up enough in the spring to begin composting again. During the winter, the compost will freeze into a solid mass so the drum should not be turned as it may damage the composting unit. With this in mind, it is a good idea to remove enough compost before it gets too cold to make room in the drum for winter use.

Heavy or Residential Winter Use

1. All vent pipe should be insulated if they are exposed to the outside or in an unheated area. If you are in an area that experiences extreme winter conditions, we recommend that heat tape should be applied (see diagram) to the exposed vent pipe to prevent ice blockages.

2. Safety Drain - We recommend that the safety drain should be installed and insulated above the frostline. There will be less evaporation in the winter so this will help with any excess liquid. If possible, heat tape can be applied to the safety drain to prevent ice blockage (see picture).

3. Keep it warm If the composting unit is used frequently in the winter then the composting part of the unit should be kept in a warm place. Below 55 degrees F (13 C), composting action slows dramatically so if it is in a place that falls below this temperature, a source of heat should be provided for the unit so that it can keep up with constant use.