Summit FF1074IM User Manual

WATER-LINE CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS

FOR INSTALLED (MODULAR) ICE MAKERS

Important Information

 This manual gives you complete instructions on how to

connect a water line to an ice maker already installed in your
SUMMIT refrigerator. Please read the manual carefully and
follow the instructions exactly as described. Make sure you
observe all safety instructions.

 A certain amount of mechanical ability is required to complete

the water connection process.

 You will have to purchase a copper tubing kit that contains a

"Regular Valve and Clamp Assembly" (for refrigerators with an
automatic ice maker, or self-filling trays). The kit contains all
of the hardware necessary to connect your ice maker to the
water supply. You can purchase one at most hardware or
plumbing supply stores.

 DO NOT USE PIERCING-TYPE OR 3/16" SHUT-OFF

VALVES. They reduce the flow of water to the ice maker and
are easily clogged.

 DO NOT USE POLYETHYLENE TUBING to connect the ice

maker to the water line. Use only 1/4" (O.D.) copper tubing.

 CUSTOMER INSTALLATION IS NOT WARRANTED BY THE

REFRIGERATOR OR ICE MAKER MANUFACTURER.

FELIX STORCH, INC.

Summit Appliance Division

770 Garrison Avenue

Bronx, New York 10474

www.summitappliance.com

1

Installing the Water Line

Choosing a location

1. Open the copper tubing kit that you purchased previously, and lay the

contents neatly on a table where you can identify them easily. The parts from
the kit that you will use are as follows:

1 Regular valve (not the steel-piercing type)
2 Compression sleeves
2 Compression nuts
2 Clamps
2 Screws
2 Nuts
1 Gasket seal *
1 Length of coiled copper tubing

*- Not needed for 11FTA models (24ECKMF kit)

NOTE: When you work with the soft copper tubing, be careful not to kink it. If you

accidentally kink the tubing, do not use it.

IMPORTANT: Do not install water line tubing in a location where the temperature

may fall below freezing; otherwise, property damage could occur.

2. Choose a suitable water pipe

location to install the water shut-off
valve (see diagram at side for some
suggested locations). We
recommend installing the valve on a
vertical length of cold (not hot) water
pipe that is nearest your refrigerator.
If a vertical length of pipe is not
nearby, you can use a horizontal
length of water pipe; however, you
will have to drill the access hole for
the valve into the top or side of the
pipe (not the bottom). This will keep water in the pipe from flowing down onto
the drill, and also keep sediment from collecting in the valve later.

NOTE: Depending on the location of the horizontal pipe in relation to the floor

and wall, drilling into it may not be possible.

3. Drill a ⅜" hole through the floor or wall to the water pipe.

2

Routing the copper tubing

Refer to the diagram on the side
for the following steps.

1. Uncoil the necessary length of

copper tubing and straighten
it, then route the end of the
tubing through the access
hole you drilled to the location
you have chosen to install the
shut-off valve. Straighten only
enough of the copper tubing
to reach this location. Leave
the rest coiled near the
access hole.

2. At this time, make sure that

you have been supplied with
enough tubing so that when
you are finished connecting the
water line, you will have enough
coiled behind the refrigerator to
easily move it forward far enough
to clean behind it. Also make
sure that the coils are large
enough so that when the unit is
pulled forward, the winding will
not stretch too far and kink.

3. Turn off the cold water supply

going to the water pipe where
you will be installing the shut-off
valve.

4. Open a cold water tap that is

connected to the selected water
pipe and bleed off the water
pressure. Leave the tap open
until after you complete the water
line hook up.

5. Use a hammer and a center

punch, and mark the location of
the hole for the shut-off valve. If
you are marking copper tubing,
do not strike the punch hard
enough to bend it.

6. Install a ¼" bit in the drill, and

carefully drill an access hole
through just the front side (not
through both sides) of the cold
water pipe.

7. Check the hole and make sure

that you have drilled completely
through one side of the pipe. The
edges of the hole should be
smooth and round. If necessary,
use a small ¾-round file to
remove any rough edges from
inside the hole, and any burrs
from around the top of the hole.

3

Installing the shut-off valve

Refer to the diagram below for the
following steps.

1. Locate the shut-off valve and the

front pipe clamp (with the
threaded hole in the center) from
the copper tubing kit. Then, being
careful not to cross-thread the
valve, screw the end with the pilot
tube into the threaded hole of the
clamp. Hand-tighten the valve as
far as it will go (the threaded
shaft is slightly tapered and can
only be tightened so far).

2. Use a ½" open-end (or

adjustable) wrench, and turn the
body of the shut-off valve an
additional ⅛-turn to secure it to
the clamp.

3. Slide the rubber seal gasket

(from the copper tubing kit) over
the pilot tube (the unthreaded
portion) of the shut-off valve.

4. Carefully slide the pilot tube of

the shut-off valve into the water
pipe access hole so it is against
the seal gasket, and install the
back pipe clamp over the water
pipe. Secure the clamps to the
pipe with the two screws and nuts
that were supplied with the
copper tubing kit. Tighten the
nuts equally so that the space
between the clamps is the same
(see DETAIL A). DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN the nuts or you
could deform the clamps and
damage the seal gasket.

4

Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve

Refer to the diagram below for the
following steps.

1. Straighten a 2" section of copper

tubing and make sure that the
opening is round and cut evenly
across the end. If necessary, use
a tubing cutter (or a hacksaw)
and cut the end off, then file it so
it is even, and remove any burrs
from around the inside and
outside edges so it is smooth and
round. When you are finished,
clean the filings from inside the
tubing as much as possible.

2. Position the compression nut as

shown, and slide it over the end
of the copper tubing.

3. Slide a compression sleeve over

the copper tubing until it is
approximately 1" from the end.

4. Insert the end of the copper

tubing into the outlet connector of
the shut-off valve as far as it will
go, and then hand tighten the
compression nut as much as
possible.

5. Using a ½" open-end wrench,

further tighten the compression

nut on the shut-off valve one
additional turn. If necessary, you

will tighten the nut further after
you turn on the water supply.

6. Turn the T-handle on the shut-off

valve to its fully "open"
(counterclockwise rotation)
position.

5

Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve

Refer to the diagram below for the
following steps.

1. Check to make sure that the free

end of the tubing is round and cut
even. If necessary, prepare the
end in the same manner as you
did earlier. Be sure to clean the
filings from inside the tubing after
you prepare the end.

When you perform the next step, be
careful not to kink the copper tubing.

2. Starting at the free end,

straighten approximately 20" of
the copper tubing.

3. Close the water tap you left open

earlier to bleed the water lines.

4. Insert the end of the copper

tubing into a pail, and have
someone turn on the water
supply. Allow enough water to
flow through the lines to
thoroughly flush them out. Once
the water runs clear, turn off the
supply and bleed the lines.

5. Remove the strain relief clamp

from the rear of the cabinet and
slide it over the end of the copper
tubing. Make sure you position
the flanges as shown.

6. Slide a compression nut over the

free end of the copper tubing.

7. Slide a compression sleeve over

the copper tubing and position it
1" from the end.

8. If one is installed, remove the

plastic cap from the water inlet
fitting on the water valve and
discard the cap.

9. Insert the end of the tubing into

the water inlet connector at the
top of the water valve as far as it
will go, and hand tighten the
compression nut as much as
possible.

10. Use a ½" open-end wrench, and

further tighten the compression
nut on the water inlet connector

one additional turn. If necessary,

you will tighten the nut further
after you turn on the water
supply.

11. Mount the strain relief clamp to

the back of the cabinet with the
hex-head screw you removed
earlier.

6

Turning the water on

NOTE: Be very careful when you
tighten the compression nuts that
you do not overtighten them and
destroy the compression sleeving
and the end of the soft copper
tubing. If this happens, you will have
to cut off the end of the tubing,
purchase a new compression sleeve,
and start over. Be careful and go
slowly!

1. Turn on the water supply and

check the shut-off valve for
leakage. If necessary, refer to the
side diagram, and tighten the
compression nut on the shut-off
valve in small increments until the
leakage just stops. Wipe off the
connection with a cloth each time
you check for leaks.

2. Check the water valve for any

leakage. If necessary, tighten the
compression nut (see the side

diagram) in small increments until
the leaking just stops.

7

Final Installation

Forming the copper tubing

Loop the copper tubing coming from
the water valve as shown. Position
the coiled copper tubing near the
center of the unit so that it forms an
"accordion-fold" (as shown in the
diagram below) when it is moved to­and-from the wall.

8

Connecting the power/Leveling the unit

1. Plug the power cord into its AC

outlet, and carefully push the
refrigerator back against the wall

2. Place a level on top of the

cabinet. If you need to re-level
the refrigerator, follow the
procedure to adjust the front
casters, as outlined in your

refrigerator's Use and Care
Guide.

3. Check the position of the ice

maker. If it is crooked and needs
to be adjusted, loosen the bottom
bracket screws (see the side
diagram) and position the unit as
desired, then tighten the bracket
screws.

9

Starting the Ice Maker

1. Wash out the ice bucket, and

then slide it under the ice maker
(see the side diagram) as far as it
will go. The ice bucket will be
sitting on top of the freezer shelf.

2. Place the items back into the

freezer compartment.

3. Lower the arm on the ice maker

(see diagram below) to its "on"
position, and close the freezer
door. The ice maker will begin to
make ice within 24 hours.

NOTE: It usually takes

approximately 24 hours for the ice
maker to begin producing ice. Once
ice is available, you may notice that
it has an "off" taste. If this happens,
make two or three batches of ice and
discard them. After that, the "off"
taste should be gone. If you have
any problems, refer to "Trouble­shooting " on the following page.

This completes the installation of
your Ice Maker.

10

Troubleshooting

Operational notes

1. The Ice Maker water valve

contains a flow washer that acts
like a pressure regulator to
control the water flow. For the Ice
maker to work properly, the water
pressure in your home must be
between 20 and 120 pounds-per­square-inch (psi). If you
encounter problems with your Ice
Maker's ability to product ice, call
your water utility company and
have the water pressure
checked.

2. The Ice Maker's water valve is

equipped with two strainers: a
plastic basket type and a wire­mesh screen. Both of these can
be cleaned by turning off the
water and disassembling the
water valve (your service center
should be able to provide this
service). If local water conditions
require periodic cleaning, or if
you use a well as a water source,
you should consider installing a
second water strainer in the
water line. You can obtain a
water strainer from your local
appliance dealer.

Troubleshooting chart

The following chart lists several common problems that could occur with your Ice Maker.

PROBLEM CAUSE

One or more of the following
sounds is heard:

 Buzzing
 Trickling water
 Thud (clatter of ice)

Ice tastes stale. The ice is old. Make a new batch.
Water in Ice Maker overflows. Refrigerator or Ice Maker is not level. If the Ice

Not enough ice. It will take 48 hours to fill the ice bucket. The ice

Ice making has stopped. Be sure that the bail arm is lowered into the ice

The water valve is operating.
Water is entering the Ice Maker to fill cup.
Ice is being dumped into the ice bin.

Maker still overflows after leveling, turn off the Ice
Maker's water supply at the shut-off valve, and
raise the Ice Maker's bail arm to the "off" position
(see previous page); then contact your local
service center.

maker will make ice every 2 to 3 hours. For more
ice, adjust the freezer control to a colder setting.

bucket (see previous page).
Make sure that the water shut-off valve is open.
The water shut-off valve or the water valve screen

is clogged. (Contact your local service center.)

11

The modular ice maker service sheet

Module test points

Specifications

MOLD HEATER — 185 WATTS, 72 OHMS
THERMOSTAT — CLOSE 17° ± 3°
(BIMETAL) OPEN 32° ± 3°
WATER FILL — 140CC, 7.5 SEC.
MOTOR — 1.5 WATTS, 8800 OHMS
MODULE — STAMPED CIRCUIT,

PLUG-IN CONNECTORS

CYCLE — ONE REVOLUTION

(EJECTS AND WATER FILL)
FOR 120 VOLT MODEL

Water level adjustment

TURNING THE SCREW CLOCKWISE
DECREASES THE WATER FILL.

 ½ TURN EQUALS 20CC OR 1.2 SEC.
 FULL TURN EQUALS 40CC OR 2.4 SEC.
 MAXIMUM ADJUSTMENT IS ONE FULL TURN

EITHER DIRECTION. ADDITIONAL ROTATION
COULD DAMAGE MODULE.

Service Procedures

COVER

PULL WATER ADJUSTMENT KNOB FIRST AND SNAP
OFF COVER. INDEX KNOB AND REINSTALL IN SAME
POSITION FOR WATER FILL.

MODULE, MOTOR AND

INSERT PHILLIPS DRIVER IN ACCESS PORTS IN
MODULE. LOOSEN BOTH SCREWS. DISCONNECT
SHUT-OFF ARM. PULL MOLD FROM SUPPORT
ASSEMBLY.

SHUT-OFF ARM

PULL OUT FROM SUPPORT. REINSERT TO FULL
DEPTH.

MOLD AND HEATER

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR AND SUPPORT
ASSEMBLY.

BIMETAL

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR AND SUPPORT ASSEM­BLY. PULL OUT RETAINING CLIPS WITH BIMETAL.

FILL CUP

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR AND SUPPORT ASSEM­BLY. REMOVE EJECTOR BLADES AND SHUT-OFF
ARM. PULL FILL CUP FROM MOLD.

EJECTOR BLADES OR STRIPPER

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY.
WHEN REINSTALLING EJECTOR BLADES, REALIGN "D"
COUPLING WITH MODEL CAM.

SUPPORT ASSEMBLY

12

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13

FELIX STORCH, INC.
770 Garrison Avenue
Bronx, NY 10474
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
www.summitappliance.com

For parts and accessory ordering,

troubleshooting and helpful hints, visit:

www.summitappliance.com

or call Customer Service toll-free

at (800)-932-4267

support