Build Manual
Suffolk SS100
Suffolk Sportscars
PO Box 100, Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 9BA
Roger Williams - 07967 339424 - roger@suffolksportscars.com
Workshops - 01728 745055 - theworkshop@suffolksportscars.com
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition)
Page 2
Dear Customer,
Suffolk SS100 – OWNERS BUILD MANUAL
We hope that your chosen project of self-building your Suffolk SS100 will be as enjoyable as
driving your car following completion. This Build Manual has been written and upgraded many
times over the 20 years of production. We want you to enjoy every aspect of building your
car. There is great satisfaction in being able to look back on the project and say “I built that
car”.
Over 200 Suffolk cars have been sold to date; 140 have been built by customers at home.
Our emphasis is very much directed towards supplying the parts and assisting self build
owners in the satisfactory completion of their SS100. The Manual is written logically and
without jargon to take you through the build processes to completion. This is Revision 10
and includes technical improvements to the front suspension, body mounting and electrical
circuits; all with many more diagrams.
You are most welcome to visit and revisit us at Woodbridge to learn more, take photographs
and talk to Philip, Michael or myself about the construction of your car. If you are unable to
undertake some elements of the build process yourself, we can do the work on your behalf.
We are here to help and ensure that your build goes smoothly and according to the original
plan.
Yours sincerely,
Roger Williams
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 3
Build Manual for Suffolk SS100 Sports Car
Index
Page
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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 6
1. Introduction
This scope of this manual is to pr
ovide all the information necessary to build the Suffolk SS100 sports car. It
assumes that all donor car parts are supplied by Suffolk Sportscars, fully refurbished and built into subunits
ready for assembly, along with all the other parts required for completion of the car. If a builder wishes to
refurbish donor parts himself he should contact Suffolk Sportscars.
The skills required to successfully build the car are straightforward and need basic mechanical appreciation
and assembly skills only. Only a few tools over and above what is normally found in the average garage of
an owner who carries out his own routine maintenance are required.
Essential photographs showing chassis build up are included in Appendix 3. A CD ROM with about 100
photographs covering every aspect of the build is available from Suffolk Sportcars for £15 including postage and
packing refundable against a chassis purchase
2. Tools, equipment & ordering of parts
• A single 16 x 8 ft garage is sufficient space to build the car but more room is helpful, plus:
• A Haynes workshop manual for Jaguar XJ6 series I, II, III. (Haynes Ref 0242, ISBN 1-85010-178-7)
• A bench and vice
2.1 Tools Required
• A set of Imperial (3/8” - 1” A/F) and metric (10 - 26mm A/F) spanners - open ended and ring.
• A 1/2” square drive socket set covering 7/16” - 1” A/F and 10 - 26mm A/F.
• A 1/2” square drive torque wrench of 120 ft-lbs capacity.
• A portable electric drill with 1/2” (13mm) chuck & drill bits from 1 - 13 mm in 0.5mm steps.
• Thread cutting tap sets: M3, M4, M5, M6, M8, 2BA, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16” UNF & tap wrenches plus
tapping drills 2.5, 3.3, 4.2, 4.0, 5.0, 5.5, 6.9, 8.5 mm.
• Set of Allen keys, metric and Imperial.
• Usual selection of hand tools e.g. screwdrivers, pliers, files, hacksaw, spirit level etc.
• Electrical test meter and leads.
• Electrical crimping pliers.
• Sheet metal snips or nibbler for the bonnet panels. The nibbler type is much easier to use unless the
builder is experienced in sheet metal work.
• Pop rivet tools and a selection of blind rivets.
• 4 axle stands rated at 1 tonne.
• A trolley jack. A cheap one will suffice but a 2 tonne model giving a 15” lift is well worth the money.
•
An engine crane of 1-ton
capacity is needed to install the engine & gearbox assembly. If Suffolk Sportscars
deliver the assembly, this can be done for you. Otherwise this item can be hired or bought. You will also
need suitable chain and shackles to attach to the engine lifting eyes.
• A dremel hobby type grinding/cutting multi tool – with various attachments.
2.2 Fasteners
Suffolk Sportscars can supply all nuts, bolts and fasteners in a comprehensive boxed & labelled kit. Nut and
bolt
sizes are listed within the kit for each operation in the build schedule. Owing to the diversity of
component suppliers both imperial and metric threads are used.
All Jaguar components (with very few exceptions) use unified (imperial) threads, mostly UNF, but UNC is
used for threads in aluminium alloy. Exceptions are steering racks on some later cars where the track rods are
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 7
threaded M14 fine (1.5mm pitch), and the bolts securing the front brake callipers and steering arms, which
are M12 fine (1.25mm pitch). Where metric threads are used on other components they are isometric (coarse
series).
SU carburettors use BSF and BA, while most of the fittings to the windscreen are 2BA.
It is recommended that stainless steel fastenings are used for fittings to the body and for those directly
exposed to dirt, salt etc. from the road. Stainless nuts and bolts in unified threads are difficult to obtain, but
metric are readily obtainable and are used for this reason wherever possible.
It is recommended that all non-stainle
ss fasteners are high tensile nickel-plated. Suffolk Sportscars can
supply all nuts, bolts and fasteners in a comprehensive boxed & labeled kit. Nut and bolt sizes are listed
within the kit for each operation in the build schedule. Owing to the diversity of component suppliers both
imperial and metric threads are used.
All Jaguar components (with very few exceptions) use unified (imperial) threads, mostly UNF, but UNC is
used for threads in aluminium alloy. Exceptions are steering racks on some later cars where the track rods
are threaded M14 fine (1.5mm pitch), and the bolts securing the front brake callipers and steering arms,
which are M12 fine (1.25mm pitch). Where metric threads are used on other components they are isometric
(coarse series).
SU carburetors use BSF and BA, while most of the fittings to the windscreen are 2BA.
It is recommended that stainless steel fastenings are used for fittings to the body and for those directly
exposed to dirt, salt etc. from the road. Stainless nuts and bolts in unified threads are difficult to obtain, but
metric are readily obtainable and are used for this reason wherever possible.
It is recommended that all non-stainless fasteners are high tensile nickel-plated.
2.3 Ordering of parts
Please photocopy the proforma of the customer order form (Appendix 7) and complete as required. Please
date and number your orders sequentially and send them to:
Roger Williams
Suffolk Sportscars Ltd
POBox 100
Woodbridge
Suffolk IP12 9BA
Please keep a copy of your orders for reference purposes.
Parts Delivery Disclaimer
We try to offer the best possible service at Suffolk
Sportscars and we are happy to deliver items to your
home or workplace. The driver will assess whether or not he can physically maneuver the items into place
and will only do so if items pass freely through the spaces provided.
Customers responsibility:
1. to ensure that the storage area is already prepared to receive the items prior to their arrival.
2. for the welfare of the goods as soon as they arrive on site.
3. for the welfare of the persons involved in lifting heavy / awkward items.
Once you have ordered your parts and you have a delivery date please make sure you have the space required
ready for delivery, in case of the body delivery please make sure there is sufficient space around the chassis
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 8
for the delivery driver and helpers to get the body in position over your chassis. You will find the body size
measurements in appendix 8.
3. Build sequence & Parts list
There are a number of variations in build sequence to meet individual preferences. Build sequence A is a
guide based on a number of successful customer builds. Build Sequence B is that used by Suffolk Sportscars
when factory building a car. The key difference is that in the factory build sequence B the body is fully
finished and painted before many of the drillings are made and fittings attached. Sequence A takes the more
cautious approach of attaching the body and making all drillings and fittings, then removing the body for
finishing & painting. This means that any mistake in making holes in the body can easily be corrected by
filling and finishing. For further advice, consult Suffolk Sportscars.
The sections in this manual correspond to Build Sequence A. If Build Sequence B is adopted there will be
some changes in sequence and detail.
3.1 Build sequence A
The following build sequence can be u
sed as a guide and or check list as you build your Suffolk SS100, Some
builders prefer to fully build the car and/or cut their own bonnet before disassembling for paint at a local body shop,
this is fine but you may need to change some of the sequence, it is a much more cautious approach to fully build
before painting and will take you a lot longer to finish your build.
In our experience very few customers damage their cars paint as long you take sensible precautions and always protect
the paint where possible or where there is a risk of damage.
1. Support the chassis on 4 axle stands.
2. Fit using “Loctite”, the 4 special Suffolk bushes to the chassis, which carry the final drive and rear
suspension subunit. (Before fitting check that the bores of the tubes into which the bushes are fitted are
cleaned of all paint, weld splatter or other obstruction).
3. Set up the rear axle assembly on the floor with the drive shafts horizontal (using a spirit level) & check
the camber of the rear hubs. If not at zero degrees (i.e. vertical), adjust with shims between the brake disc
and the inner universal joint flange.
4. Fit into the chassis, using the upper & lower Suffolk mounting plates, the final drive and rear suspension
subunit.
5. Fit the 4 coils over the shock absorber units.
6. Fit the 2 rear tie bars and spherical “Rose” joints. Adjust tie bars to equal length.
7. Build up the front suspension units using the lower & upper wishbones, stub axle, carrier and hubs from
the donor car.
8. Fit the 2 front coil over shock absorber units and brake calipers.
9. Fit the steering rack using the 3 polyurethane bushes. (Drill the front cross member for the brake pipe
fixings first).
10. Set front wheel alignment approximately.
11. Fit the brake & clutch pedals on the chassis with the cross shaft.
12. Fit the brake servo and master cylinder to the mounting plate on the chassis.
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 9
13. Fit clutch master cylinder & actuating rod.
14. Fit the brake lines to the inside of the long offside chassis rail and via the front cross member to the
nearside front brake.
15. Fit the brake light switch and front brake flexible hoses.
16. Fit the fuel tank sender unit and the fuel tank to the chassis.
17. Fit the fuel pump.
18. Run the 5/16” OD fuel line from the tank to the engine bay via the fuel pump.
19. Fill the fluid reservoir and bleed the braking system.
20. Fit the engine mountings and special bush and mounting to the gearbox.
21. Fit the gearbox mounting plate to the chassis.
22. Using an engine crane install the engine & gearbox subunit into the chassis.
23. Fit clutch hydraulic line and hose connection to the slave cylinder. Bleed the system.
24. Install the Suffolk modified prop shaft.
25. Fit the 6-part stainless steel exhaust system.
26. Paint the radiator matt black & fit electric cooling fan to radiator.
27. Radiator-mounting hoop, alloy radiator core (central to body) and top & bottom hoses.
28. Initial wiring.
29. Splined hubs, dummy brake drums and wheels and tyres.
30. Lift on the body.
31. Bolt down the body.
32. Test fit doors.
33. Final mounts and spacers.
34. Scuttle bracket and short stays.
35. Cut or test fit bonnet.
36. Body paint preparation and checks.
37. Refit body and doors.
38. Refit bonnet.
39. Handbrake cable.
40. Seat runners and floorboards.
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 10
41. Handbrake lever.
42. Remove floorboards for staining and refit.
43. Gearbox and prop-shaft covers.
44. Alloy floor plates and sealing floorboards.
45. Windscreen and wipers.
46. Front valance and dummy starting handle eye.
47. Headlamp bar.
48. Lamp bar stays.
49. Wing stays.
50. Steering column.
51. Throttle pedal.
52. Choke cable.
53. Door latches and striker plates.
54. Rear lamp brackets.
55. Spare wheel brackets.
56. Rear reflectors.
57. Dummy fuel vent and hood support blocks.
58. Fuel cap and adaptor.
59. Hood mount spindles.
60. Heater.
61. Wing beading.
62. Running board strakes.
63. Final wiring.
64. Interior trimming.
65. Weather gear.
66. Steering wheel.
67. Number, GB and chassis plates.
68. Luggage rack.
69. Seatbelts.
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 11
70. Tuning and testing.
71. Road preparation.
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 12
3.2 Parts List
Any items not ticked in the SUPPLIED column are not in stock and will follow shortly.
DATE
LOCATION
CUSTOMER NAME BUILD
No.
DELIVERY
DATE
SECTION 1 CHASSIS BUILD UP
Page 1
DESCRIPTION
★
Special order
Donor car component package
Strip/prepare/paint donor components
001
Chassis painted + black powder coating
002
Radiator hoop
003
2 long stays + 2 short stays + 2 wing stays
004
Differential mountings x 3 (2 lowers often part of rear axle - 077)
005
Metalastic bushes x 4
006
Gearbox mounting plate
007
Spare wheel carrier + spacers x3
008
Pedal shaft, washer, bolt & split pin.
009
Brake & clutch pedals + 2 tops + rubbers & Throttle pedal + brkt
010
Tie bars x 2 complete with bushes and rose joints
011
Handbrake assembly inc. cable
012
Prop-shaft (specify gearbox type)
013
Fuel tank + straps + rubber strips + drain bung
014
Fuel tank sender unit – bent to correct profile
015
Alloy radiator + Fan thermo switch + Electric fan fitted +15lb rad
cap
016
Radiator lower mounting rubbers x2 + overflow hose + bottom
hose
017
Andre Hartford dummy x2 + stars and dials
018
Servo + master cylinder + 4 spacers + hose & clips
019
Steering rack – modified long or short turret
020
Track rod ends x2 (metric or imperial)?
021
Rack mounting poly bush kit
022
Front shock absorber mounting plates x 2
022a
Bolt on steering lock stops (fit with 022)
023
Front shock absorber spacers x 4
024
Front shocks + springs x 2 fitted together
025
Front brake flexible hoses + nuts x 2
026
Clutch flexible hose + nuts
027
Clutch master cylinder + pushrod
028
Brake pipe set – 11 piece
029
Brake light switch + copper washer
030
Brake unions 1 x 3way + 1 x 4way
031
Fuel line set + nut & olive + hose clips x6
032
Fuel pump
033
Fuel filter - glass
034
Front lower wishbones x 1LH + 1RH
035
Front lower wishbone shafts x 2 + castle nuts & split pins
036
Front serrated washers x4 + thin washers x2
037
Front lower wishbone castor spacers (SS) x2
038
Front lower wishbone bushes x4
039
Front bottom ball joints x2
040
Front upper wishbones x4 (curly or straight)?
041
Front upper wishbone rubber bushes x4
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 13
SS REF No.
SUPPLIED
REQUIRED
SECTION 1 CHASSIS BUILD UP Page
2
DESCRIPTION
★
Special order
042
Front top ball joints x2
043
Front upper wishbone inner mounting shaft x2
044
Front chrome washers x8
045
Front upper caster shims x6
046
Front wheel bearing car set (early or late type)?
047
Front upright s/axle + washer, nut & cap
048
Front steering drop arms 1LH + 1RH
049
Front brake pipe support brackets x 2
050
Front hubs x 2
051
Front brake discs x 2
052
Front calipers x 2 + special mounting bolts & lock wire
053
Front brake pads x 2
054
Rear shocks + springs x 4
055
Rear shock mounting pins x 4 + spacers & washers + springs
056
Rear hubs fully built up x 2 (labour)
057
Rear hubs x 2
058
Rear hub carriers x 2
059
Rear oil seal tracks rear x 2 large + 2 small
060
Rear seals and taper bearings x 4ea + tubes x 2
061
Rear wheel bearing kits + shims x 2
062
Rear tie bar brackets x 2
063
Rear differential + top bolts + breather
Ratio:
064
Rear differential side mounts x 2 + tubes x 2 + bolts
065
Rear drive shafts shortened x 2
066
Rear lower arms shortened x 2
067
Rear discs x 2
068
Rear brake pads x 2
069
Rear calipers x 2 + mounting bolts
070
Rear handbrake calipers x 2 (inc. pads) + springs x 2
071
Rear universal joints drive shaft x 4
072
Rear needle rollers x 8 + sleeves x 4
073
Rear washers/seals/rings x 8
074
Rear wishbone pins x 2 inner + 2 outer
075
Rear driveshaft flanges x 2 inner + 2 outer
076
Rear driveshaft shims x 14
077
★
Build up whole rear end + (assy labour) includes 056 labour
All items 056-076
078
Nut and bolt kit. Labeled for build-up sections
079
Splined hubs, x 5. 3 x LH, 2 x RH
080
Spinners, x 5. 3 x LH, 2 x RH, chromed with SS logo
081
Brake drums, dummy, x 4.
082
Wheel nuts, x 20. Donor/ new. Machined
★ Delivery to: Date of Delivery:
Delivery Diesel or courier costs:
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 14
DATE
LOCATION
CUSTOMER NAME BUILD No.
DELIVERY
DATE
SS REF No.
SUPPLIED
REQUIRED
SECTION 1a ENGINE GEARBOX
Page 3
DESCRIPTION
★
Special order
083
Jaguar XJ6 engine:- Donor or Remanufactured by
______________
3.4 3.8 4.2
084
Engine mountings, SS made steel units, x 2
085
Engine mounting rubbers, x 2
086
Alternator 18 ACR, donor unit,/ rebuilt unit.
087
Alternator bracket, SS
088
Alternator adjuster
089
Fan belt – 913 or 925
090
Starter motor and solenoid, donor unit / rebuilt unit. + bolts
091
D type plug lead holder made to fit offside cam cover.
092
Top hose + bypass hose
093
Distributor – Standard Points type or ★ Electronic Ignition type
094
Coil, donor / new. & a set of HT Leads
095
Air cleaners x 2.
096
Throttle linkage, donor, as fitted, SS made/modified units.
097
Choke cable
098
Engine driven fan, plastic.
099*
Electric fan and mounting kit - *if required separate from radiator
100
Exhaust manifolds, x 2 refurbed donor
101
★
Polished Stainless Steel (2 part) 6-branch exhaust manifolds
102
Water pump. Donor unit / rebuilt early type unit.
103
Suffolk water jacket casting + gasket.
104
Oil filter housing + filter to suit. Type:
105
Inlet manifold
106
Carburetors x 2, donor units / rebuilt units. Size 13/4, 17/8, 2 inch.
107
Cam covers - polished Jaguar Mk II type, x 2, polished.
108
Oil filler cap with SS logo, alloy / original type chromed
109
Flywheel, donor unit / new unit / recon unit + bolt set
110
Clutch cover and driven plate + carbon thrust bearing – set
111
Gearbox donor / rebuilt. 4 speed + o/d or ★ 5 speed or automatic.
112
Gearbox mounting rubber + gearbox mounting bush, by SS
113
Rebuild overdrive unit.
114
Bell housing. Modified by SS + gearbox bolt set & Cover plate
115
Clutch fork + pushrod
116
Right angled drive for 4speed o/d gearbox
117
Speedo cable (to suit 111 & 116)
118
Clutch slave cylinder & spring + tab washer & Banjo pipe
119
Gear lever and alloy knob.
120
Assemble engine with bell housing, gearbox & overdrive.
120a
★
Fit engine into customers chassis; Bring our engine crane
121
Exhaust system, with mountings & fixings. Standard or ★ special?
122
Road wheels, 18inch x 5. Silver painted, / chromed / special
stoved.
123
Tyres 550 x 18, x 5 Blockley. Plus tapes & tubes.
124
Fitting tyres to wheels & balancing
★ Delivery to: Date of Delivery:
Delivery Diesel or courier costs:
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 15
DATE
LOCATION
CUSTOMER NAME BUILD
No.
DELIVERY
DATE
SS REF No.
SUPPLIED
REQUIRED
SECTION 2 BODY & FITTINGS
Page 4
DESCRIPTION
★
Special order
125
Bodywork, in GRP, chassis fitted with doors hung
RHD or ★ LHD
★
Wing rivets?
126
Valance made in GRP or ★ Alloy.
127
Bonnet set - alloy, 4 part. Supplied with 3 hinges & 2 end pivots.
128
Alloy bonnet rivets x16 + 2 spare
129 ★ Fit bonnet to body and to radiator shell – labour.
130
Starting handle eye – chromed + fixings.
131
Ripaults bonnet catches SS pattern- chromed, x 4.
132
Bonnet hooks - under bonnet, x 4. + fitting sheet
133
Bonnet studs, x 4.
134
Radiator shell - chromed.
135
Radiator grille- chromed.
136
Radiator cap and handle - chromed. ★ Special mascot?
137
Radiator badge and 2 enamelled logos. Colour?
138
Radiator shell brackets x 2
139
Radiator/body bonnet tape.
140
Headlamp bar with ‘100’ logo - chromed.
141
Headlamp bar fitting kit
142
Headlamp stays, eyes & knuckles - stainless x 2.
143
Type 40 Headlamps - stainless, x 2.
144
Type 40 mounting posts, inserts, lenses & stone guards x 2.
145
Sealed beam, 7inch light units x 2, RHD / LHD?
146
Spot lamps to fit with Type 40 Lamps + brackets.
147 ★ Lucas QK596 Headlamps - chromed x 2 (special order).
148 ★ Lucas QK596 mounting posts x 2
149 ★ Lucas Spot lamps to match QK596 Lamps + brackets.
150
Lucas sidelights - chromed, used as indicators x 2, + orange bulbs.
151
Lucas “Owl’s Eye” rear lights - chromed, x 2. With bulbs fitted.
152
Rear lamp brackets x 2.
153
Set of flexible lamp conduits x 4.
154
Rear reflectors x 2.
155
Rear fog light.
156
Reverse light.
157
Horns - chrome fronts x 2.
158
Wiring loom, relays and fuses.
159
Door locks, covers & Door striker plates x 2.
160
Hood side mounts to body x 2.
161
Hood rests - rear x 2.
162
Dummy tank vent curly - chromed.
163
Aston Fuel cap + adaptor plate, fuel hose & jubilee clips x 2.
164
Running board strakes x 10, cut to length with rubber inserts.
165
Heater + fitting kit.
166
Interior mirror + fixings.
167
Seat runners, modified donor x 4.
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 16
SECTION 2 BODY & FITTINGS
Page 5
DESCRIPTION
★
Special order
168
Seat frames with bases and backs – metels black painted x 2.
169
Seat foams, x 2.
170
Door check strap holders - chromed x 4
171
Rear compartment locks x 2
172
Floorboard set including angle brackets & clutch access cover.
173
Alloy seatbelt anchor covers
174
Transmission covers x 2. 4speed+o/d or ★ 5speed, / automatic?
175
Steering column upper - donor modified + lock & key,
176
Steering column lower shaft + UJ‘s x 2
177
Indicator stalk +dip +flasher + horn switching.
178
Steering wheel - MotoLita + alloy boss or ★ old style black
179
Wiper motor - 130_ sweep + rack and spindles + nuts.
180
Wiper blades, arms and pegs, x 2ea.
181
Wiper ‘Z’ mounting to chassis plate & ‘U’ bracket
182
Dashboard grab handle - chrome.
183
Instrument set. Tacho, speedo, oil, water, fuel, amps & fittings
184
Pull switches, x 3.
185
Side/headlamp rotary switch. Old style Jaguar Mk II modified by SS
186
Fuel, main/reserve, dummy control knob
187
Ignition switch.
188
Starter button
189
Auxiliary light switch to operate fog lamps - red or green LED ?
190
Dashboard warning lamps, 2 x green, 1 x orange/red
191
12v Phone charger socket
192
Enamel Union Jack bonnet badges x 2.
193
SS door sill nave plates - chromed x 2.
194
Seatbelt set new or donor + fixings & posts
195
Battery tray and clamp kit
196
Steering column st/stl bulkhead shroud + rubber
197
Door seal – self adhesive black neoprene rubber
SECTION 2a: PAINTWORK
198a
★ Paint bodywork and bonnet
198b
Transport to and from paint shop
198c
Touch-in paint pot
Additional items:
199a
Battery cut off switch
199b
★ Engine turned dash cover panel – drilled
199c
Hidden switch panel (for 12v charger socket + extra switches, etc)
199d
Hazard warning lamp switch & relay unit
Note to S.S.– Check if body needs to be trimmed to suit stl manifold
★ Delivery to: Date of Delivery:
Delivery Diesel or courier costs:
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 17
DATE
LOCATION
CUSTOMER NAME BUILD No.
DELIVERY
DATE
SS REF No.
SUPPLIED
REQUIRED
SECTION 3 FINISHING COMPONENTS
Page 6
DESCRIPTION
★
Special order
200
Windscreen, SS folding, glazed, chromed.
201
Windscreen fitting kit
202
Aeroscreens x 2 with fixings
203
Wind wings x 2 with fixings
204
Wing mirrors x 2 with fixings
205
Hood frame, painted black
206
Hood in Black mohair, fitted with timber bow.
207
Hood clips & complete hood fitting kit
208
Hood bag in Black mohair
209
Tonneau cover in black mohair
210
Side screens, x 2 in black mohair with flexible windows + bag
211
Luggage rack + brackets & fitting kit
212 ★ Luggage trunk & black cover + fitting kit
SECTION 3a: INTERIOR, TRIM, LEATHER & CARPETS
213 ★ Full Interior trim set - made with seats, doors, locker, carpets - fully
fitted by our trimmer.
214 ★ Part Interior trim set - 2 seats and 2 door panels, customer to fit
remainder with carpet & leather material supplied.
215
Supply leather only
216
Supply carpet only
SECTION 3b: REGISTRATION ITEMS
217
Front number plate - oblong
218
Rear number plate - square
219
GB plate - square
220
Chassis plate
221
Tax disc holder
222
Badge bar & 4 badge buckles
Any other items:
223a
Wing beading kit
223b
Hidden storage bin located above rear axle
★ Delivery to: Date of Delivery:
Delivery Diesel or courier costs:
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 18
4. Chassis, suspension, steering & final drive
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Chassis kit comprising:
• MIG welded box section chassis.
• Gearbox mounting plate.
•
Differential mounting plates (3 will be attached to differential if been built by Suffolk Sportscars).
The below parts are not required until your body is fitted,
• Radiator hoop.
• Radiator hoop stays (long) - (2)
• Dashboard stays (short) - (2)
• Front wing stays (2)
Upon delivery of the chassis locate it in the centre of the build area with maximum access from all four sides.
Three people, two at the rear and one at the front can easily lift the chassis. Place the chassis on the four axle
stands with the main longitudinal 2” x 4” members parallel to and about 15” above the ground. Placing
cardboard or cloth between the axle stands and the chassis will avoid damage to the powder coating.
The chassis is stamped clearly with its chassis number behind the offside front upper wishbone. Check that
this is so as it is a legal requirement. See Appendix 9 for a detailed drawing of the chassis.
4.1 Rear suspension and final drive
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• 4 special rubber “Metalastic” bushes for mounting the differential unit.
• A 6” length of 12mm studding, washers, nuts and a tubular spacer or similar, see Figure 1.
• Loctite thread lock.
• The assembled final drive and rear suspension subunit comprising differential, rear discs, main
calipers, handbrake calipers, brake pads, handbrake pads, return springs, lower wishbones, drive
shafts, hubs, and lower differential mounting plates.
• Coil over shock absorber units with springs fitted (2).
• 2 upper rear shock absorber mounting spindles (Suffolk manufacture), washers & nyloc nuts.
• 2 lower shock absorber mounting spindles from donor car (modified), washers & nyloc nuts.
• 4 spacers 5/8” ID x 3/8” for mounting the two rear shock absorbers ahead of the drive shafts.
• 2 tie bars with Rose joints fitted at one end, rubber bushes at the other.
• 1/2” UNF x 31/2” bolts (4).
• 1/2” UNF x 4” bolts (2).
• 1/2” UNF x 21/2” bolts (2).
• 1/2” UNF nyloc nuts (16).
• 1/2”ID x 11/2” OD “mudguard” washers (2).
• 1/2”ID x 11/8” OD “mudguard” washers (8) – 2 with a 3mm hole drilled near the OD.
• 4 special countersunk 1/2” UNC bolts from the donor car for attaching the final drive to the upper
mounting plate.
• 0.8mm diameter stainless steel locking wire.
• Camber setting spacers as needed (usually 2 inner and 6 outer).
4.1.1 Prepare chassis for bushes
Firstly remove all powder coating (paint) from the inner bore of the 4 mounting points (2 each in the upper &
lower cross beams respectively) for the special rubber bushes with paint stripper (e.g. Nitromors), wire
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 19
brushes and emery paper. It is important that the bores are a clean, smooth metal surface before attempting to
fit the bushes.
4.1.2 Fitting bushes
Clean the surface of each bush and coat sparingly with Loctite. Using the studding, spacer, washers and nuts
as in figure 1 or similar, press the bushes home until they are centralised in the cross member.
4.1.3 Differential mounting plate
Using two 1/2” UNF x 3 1/2” bolts & nyloc nuts assemble the top differential mounting plate to the chassis
upper cross member via the rubber bushes. The plate needs to be mounted with the flat face forward.
4.1.4 Rear axle set up
Set up the rear axle assembly on the floor with the drive shafts horizontal using suitable packing pieces and a
spirit level. Referring to fig 2, fit shims between the brake discs and the inner universal joint flanges to set
the rear hubs vertical using the spirit level. Tighten the inner drive joint flange nuts to 55 ft-lbs. If you’ve
received your axle fully built this will have already been done for you.
4.1.5 Installing axle
Next offer up the rear suspension & final drive subunit to the chassis (See photo 3). The help of 2 colleagues
is required. Place the subunit on a trolley jack or another kind of lifting bed capable of taking the weight,
supported under the flat lower differential mounting plate. With a person at each hub to steady the unit,
position it such that the 4 tapped holes in the top of the differential mate with the 4 holes in the top mounting
plate. Screw in the 4 countersunk bolts loosely at this stage.
4.1.6 Lower mounts
Using the remaining two 1/2” UNF x 31/2” bolts, nyloc nuts and the 1/2”ID x 11/2” OD “mudguard”
washers, attach the lower differential mounting plate to the chassis lower cross member. Fit washers as
necessary between the mounting plate and the chassis so that when the 4 top countersunk bolts are tightened,
alignment is maintained, and undue stress is not applied to the differential body or bushes. Install the large
“mudguard” washers between the front face of the bush and the nyloc nut. This is to ensure, in the unlikely
event of the bush becoming loose in its bore, that the lower mounting plate remains captive.
4.1.7 Tightening and wiring
Using spanners and finally a torque wrench tighten the 4 countersunk differential attachment bolts to 75 ftlbs (since there is little access for a torque wrench on some of the bolts use best judgement with a spanner),
and the 4 attachment bolts to the chassis to 40lb-ft. Using the 0.8mm S/S wire lock together the 4 special
countersunk 1/2” UNC bolts by passing the wire through the drillings in the bolt heads before twisting the
wire and passing through the next bolt head, special pliers are available to help make this tight and tidy.
4.1.8 Differential oil
Make sure that the differential unit has been filled with fresh hypoid oil (refer to Appendix 4 for the correct
grade). The filler port is easy to access now but much more difficult after the fuel tank has been fitted. The
filler plug is also the level, fill until oil is level/just runs out of the threaded plug hole. It is a good idea to
write a note somewhere to say the oil has been filled to save having to check later on.
4.1.9 Assembling Coil over dampers
Next fit the 4 coils over shock absorber units. It is clear which is the rear versus the front as there are 4 of the
former and 2 of the latter. Assemble these if not already done and set the spring height and damper setting to
the base settings advised in figure 23.
4.1.10 Coil over damper mounting spindles
First check the fit of the upper spindles (5/8” diameter) with the
attachment tubes welded into the chassis.
They should be a good sliding fit. Do not use force to fit them above a light tapping with a copper mallet. If
they are too tight, which is unlikely, then the only reliable way to correct this is by reaming with a 5/8”
reamer. Please contact Suffolk Sportscars who may be able to supply one on loan if you need one.
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 20
4.1.11 Coil over damper mounting with spacer
The 5/8” ID x 3/8” spacers should be fitted inside the upper and lower bushes on the forward most units.
Ensure that a 1/2”ID x 11/8” OD “mudguard” washer is fitted on the outside of each shock eye to ensure that
they remain captive in the event of rubber bush failure. Fit the two washers with the 3mm holes drilled near
the edge to the forward upper mounts, these holes are to retain the handbrake return springs.
Tighten the 8 nyloc nuts to 35lb-ft.
4.1.12 Rear tie bars
Fit the rear end of each tie bar to the bracket attached to each rear hub using the 1/2”UNF x 21/2” bolts &
nyloc nuts. Fit loosely at this stage. By screwing the Rose joints in or out of the tie bar, set them so that the
two 1/2”UNF x 4” bolts fit easily through the attachment point on the chassis to the eye of the joint, and the
lengths of the two tie bars are equal. This should be done with the rear suspension set such that the drive
shafts are horizontal. This sets the rear wheel alignment approximately true. The bolt should be fitted from
the inside so that the nut faces outward. This allows the Rose joint to be detached to adjust rear wheel
alignment. (With the bolt fitted the other way the body would prevent it being withdrawn). Alignment should
be checked and reset as necessary at a garage with optical alignment equipment at a convenient time before
road running the car. Now tighten the 4 tie bar fixings to a torque of 40 lb-ft.
4.1.13 Handbrake return springs
Install the handbrake caliper return springs between the calipers and the drilled washers (photo 3), these may
need holding in a bench vice and pre expanding a little before they will fit nicely.
4.2 Front suspension.
You will need the following parts for this operation:
a) Reconditioned from the donor car:
• Lower wishbones (2) Upper wishbones (2) - the wishbones of some early XJ6’s were different from
the majority, see figure 4 and the foregoing text
• Stub axle and stub axle carrier (2)
• Upper part of disc protector (to which the brake hose attaches). The lower part can be discarded.
• Steering arms (2)
• Brake callipers (2)
• Front hub & brake disc assembly plus washer, castellated nut & end cap (2 of each)
• Castor adjusting shims (2 sets)
• 3/8”UNF upper ball joint bolts (21/2” & 33/4” in length, 2 of each)
• Upper wishbone pivot shaft (2)
• Lower wishbone pivot shaft (2)
• Dedicated bolts for securing brake callipers and steering arm to hub axle carrier (6)
Note : These bolts are specials, some having metric threads. Do not try to replace them with
standard bolts.
• A 6” length 12mm studding, washers, nuts and a tubular spacer see Fig 1
b) Plus the following new items:
• Special spacers (13/16” ID x 3/8”) for mounting lower wishbones. (2)
• Front brake pads (4)
• Upper ball joint (2)
• Lower ball joint (2)
• Lower wishbone bushes (4)
• Upper wishbone bushes (4) and chrome washers (8)
• Mounting plate for shock absorber to lower wishbone (2)
• Coil over shock absorber units (springs already fitted) - (2)
• Brake calliper setting shims as required
• Dummy André Hartford shock absorbers (2)
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 21
• 1/2” ID x 1/2” spacers for shock absorber upper mount (4)
• 1/2” UNF x 31/2” bolts & nyloc nuts (Upper shock mounting - 2)
• 1/2” UNF x 21/2” bolts & nyloc nuts (Lower shock mounting - 2)
• 7/16” UNF x 2” bolts & nyloc nuts (Upper wishbone pivot shaft to chassis - 4)
• 3/8”UNF x 23/4” bolts & nyloc nuts (4)
• 3/8”UNF x 1” set screws plus plain washers & spring washers (4)
• 9/16”UNF castellated nut & split pin plus large serrated washer (Lower wishbone inner pivot shaft -
2 of each)
• 1/2”UNF nyloc nuts and plain washers for fixing upper wishbones to pivot shaft (4)
• 0.8mm stainless steel locking wire
Important Note: The front suspension of some older donor cars differs from others and a number of parts
are not interchangeable. Both types can be fitted to the standard Suffolk chassis and Suffolk will supply
reconditioned parts, which are compatible. To identify which you have, examine the lower & upper
wishbones. On most cars the lower wishbone ball joint bracket is kinked forward and the wishbones are
handed. These are the “new” type. On some older cars the ball joint bracket is not kinked and the wishbones
are identical – these are the “old” type, see figure 4.
Now examine the upper wishbones. On later cars the wishbone halves are identical, the “new
type”. On
older cars the upper wishbones are not identical, the “old” type see figure 4. The build information below
assumes you have the “new” type in each case. If either the upper or the lower wishbones are of the
“old” type, or you are unsure, consult Suffolk Sportscars for advice.
The following is the assembly procedure for each side. See photo 4 as a guide:
4.2.1 Upper wishbone pivot shaft
Bolt the upper wishbone pivot shaft to the chassis with the 7/16” UNF bolts and nyloc nuts, make sure the
nuts are on the inside of the chassis otherwise it will be impossible to remove the pivot shaft if necessary
after the body is fitted. Torque to 50 ft-lbs. Experience with the chassis has shown that no adjusting shims
are necessary to establish the correct front wheel camber.
4.2.2 Upper wishbone bushes
Lightly lubricate the upper wishbone bushes and assemble in the wishbone. Hand pressure is usually
sufficient. Lightly lubricate the pivot pins and assemble the wishbones together with the chrome washers
onto the pivot shaft, there are four washers on each side of the car and they need to be dished in towards the
bush. Fit the nyloc nuts but do not tighten at this point.
4.2.3 Upper ball joint
Fit the upper ball joint with the dedicated 3/8” UNF bolts from the donor car fitting sufficient castor
adjusting shims to prevent the wishbones being pulled together as the ball joint bolts are tightened. Fit all the
shims between the front wishbone and the ball joint, see figure 4 for location.
4.2.4 Lower wishbone pivot shaft
Take the lower wishbone pivot shaft and test fit it to the receiving tube welded into the chassis. It should be a
good sliding fit. Do not use force above a light tapping with a copper mallet. If it is too tight, which is
unlikely, then the only reliable way to correct this is by reaming with a 13/16” reamer. Please contact
Suffolk Sportscars who may be able to supply one on loan if you need one.
4.2.5 Lower wishbone bushes
Press in the new lower wishbone bushes using an improvised puller as shown in Figure 1 or similar. Now fit
the lower wishbones to the chassis using the 13/16” diameter pivot pins pushed through from the rear and
installing the 3/8” spacers between the rear wishbone bush inner edge and the chassis tube (fig 4) also install
one serrated washer between the spacer and the wishbone and one serrated wishbone in front of the chassis
between the chassis and the wishbone bush. Loosely fit the large serrated washer and castellated nut.
SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
Page 22
4.2.6 Lower wishbone bushes
Press in the new lower wishbone bushes using an improvised puller as shown in Figure 1 or similar. Now fit
the lower wishbones to the chassis using the 13/16” diameter pivot pins pushed through from the rear and
installing the 3/8” spacers between the rear wishbone bush inner edge and the chassis tube (fig 4) also install
one serrated washer between the spacer and the wishbone and one serrated wishbone in front of the chassis
between the chassis and the wishbone bush. Loosely fit the large serrated washer and castellated nut.
4.2.7 Hub and brake disc
Assemble the brake disc onto the hub using the bolts supplied, before installing the wheel bearings. The
wheel bearings are supplied in matched pairs and you must keep each wheel bearing inner and outer race
together so it’s best to fit one side of the car at a time. Start with the smaller outer bearing and take the inner
bearing surface (the one without the ball race) and fit into the hub with the bearing surface facing out, ideally
this should be done with a bearing puller or on a press but it can be done with a brass drift gradually going
around taping the bearing the edge in square until it stops on the shoulder inside the hub, make sure you
don’t hit and damage the bearing surface although these are hardened and won’t damage easily. Then turn
over and move to the larger inner bearing and again take the inner surface and fit as above to the hub with
the bearing surface facing out, once both bearing surfaces have been pressed in grease the larger inner
bearing thoroughly preferably using a bearing greaser before inserting into its inner surface in the hub,
follow this by taping in the inner seal supplied in the kit before turning it over to grease and install the
smaller outer bearing.
4.2.8 Fitting the hub
After ensuring that the hub bearings are correctly charged with grease. Install the hub on the stub axle and fit
it with the D washer and hub nut. Adjust the front hub bearing running clearance as per Haynes manual
Chapter 11, section 5, most importantly make sure both front wheels have the same resistance as if one
wheel is tighter the car will pull to that direction. Once tight fit the split pin cap and split pin before fitting
the end cap. The bearing can now be packed with grease using the grease nipple until grease comes through
the hole in the end cap.
4.2.9 Coil over dampers
Next take the front coil over dampers and fit the coil springs to the dampers using a coil spring
compressor, this may have already been done by Suffolk Sportscars if not take care when compressing coil
springs
as they can slip without warning. Set the spring height and damper setting to the base settings
advised in figure 23.
4.2.10 Coil over
damper mounting plate and steering lock stop
Fit a coil over damper unit to its lower mounting plate (1/2”UNF x 21/2” bolt & nyloc nut with nut facing
rearwards) torque damper mounting bolts to 50 ft-lb. After mounting to the plate attach under the wishbone
using two 3/8”UNF x 2 3/4” bolts & nyloc nuts and two 3/8”UNF x 1” set screws plus plain washers &
spring washers. Its not unknown for the nyloc nut at the bottom to need to be shortened slightly as it’s a tight
fit between the wishbone, this is best done on a lathe, Suffolk Sportscars can send thinner nuts if required.
At the same time as fitting the plate below the wishbone on the top of the wishbone fit the steering lock stop
with the tab at the front and pointing towards the hub, this stops the steering from going to far and the
steering rack lock nut catching on the wishbone, these can only be adjusted fully when the car has settled on
the ground.
4.2.11 Coil top mount
Now attach the top of the coil over damper units using the 1/2” UNF x 31/2” bolts placing the 1/2” ID x 1/2”
spacers either side of the bush for the upper mounting to centralise it and keep the bushes from moving,
torque damper mounting bolts to 50 ft-lb.
4.2.12 Dummy André Hartford, wish bone nuts
Fit the dummy André Hartford shock absorber mount to the front upper & lower wishbone pivot pins. Now
torque the upper wishbone pivot nuts to 50ft-lb and the lower pivot shaft castellated nut to 45ft-lb and fit a
split pin. The dummy adjuster and star can also now be fitted.
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4.2.13 Test fit brake caliper and steering arm
Assemble the steering arm and the brake caliper in position using the three dedicated bolts. Ensure that the
bleed nipple is at the top of the caliper. It is possible to assemble them upside down! The upper part of the
disc protector can be left out at this stage. Tighten the bolts to fully locate the caliper but do not torque at this
stage. Now measure the gaps between the abutments above and below the brake pad locations and the inner
and outer edge of the brake disc. The brake caliper should be roughly central at both upper and lower
position, fit shims or washers between the caliper and the stub axle carrier at the upper and lower mounting
positions if necessary to achieve this.
4.2.14 Fitting brake caliper, steering arm and disc protector
Now reassemble the steering arm, upper part of the disc protector and brake caliper and torque the three bolts
to 55ft-lbs. Using the 0.8mm S/S wire lock together the two caliper securing bolts by passing the wire
through cross drilled hole in the top bolt before twisting the wire then pass it through the bottom bolt before
finishing with a final twist (special pliers are available to do this).
4.3 Steering
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Steering rack from donor car modified by Suffolk, complete with track rods.
Note Both metric (M14x1.5)and imperial (5/8” UNF) track rods were used, make sure you get the
correct track rod ends.
• 3 special polyurethane rack mounting bushes and 6 large washers.
• 5/16”UNF x 21/2” bolts (3).
• 5/16”UNF nyloc nuts (3).
• Track rod ends, either 5/8”UNF or M14 fine (1.5mm pitch) depending on rack (2).
• Track rod lock nuts, either 5/8”UNF or M14 fine (2).
4.3.1 Pre-drill brake line hose clips
Drill the three holes on the underside of the front cross member for the P clip
s to support the brake line to the
front nearside caliper and wiring loom to left hand lamps and alternator before mounting the steering rack
(see next section). Access afterwards is difficult, this should already be done by Suffolk Sportscars.
4.3.2 Steering rack
Attach the steering rack to the chassis using the 3 polyurethane bushes, washers, bolts and nuts. The centre
tubes of the bushes need to sit into the centre of the washers otherwise the bushes will not tighten fully.
Tighten to 18ft-lbs.
4.3.3 Track rod ends
Set the steering rack to its central position. Screw the track rod end lock nuts and track rod ends on
to the track rods and position them such that when fitted to the steering arms and the hubs in the straight
ahead position, the effective length of each track rod is the same. Tighten the track rod end to steering arm
nuts to 45ft-lbs.
4.3.4 Basic setting of the tracking
If you have either donor car wheels or the SS100 hubs and wheels you can set up the front wheel alignment
approximately with the engine out as follows. Mount the two front wheels on the hubs. By screwing the track
rods in or out set the wheels straight ahead by eye. Find a suitable piece of wood and cut to length so that it
will slide between the inner faces of the wheel rims or tyres when positioned transversely across the chassis.
Adjust the track rods so that the rear gap is 1/16” greater than the rear giving 1/16” toe in. Tighten the track
rod lock nuts. Alignment should be checked and reset as necessary at a garage with optical alignment
equipment at a convenient time before road running the car.
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4.4 Braking system & clutch hydraulics.
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Foot pedals & cross shaft.
• Brake master cylinder, servo unit and clevis/split pin.
• 8mm ID x 12mm spacers – supplied with servo (4).
• Servo vacuum non-return valve from donor car, this is sometimes built in the servo elbow.
• Clutch master cylinder, actuating rod & clevis/split pin.
• Front brake flexible hoses (2) with locknuts (4) and shake proof washers (4).
• Clutch flexible hose with locknut.
• Set of 3/16” OD brake pipes, ready flared and fitted with unions (see appendix 7).
• 3/16” OD clutch hydraulic line.
• 3/8”UNF “T” piece union with female threads (1).
• 3/8”UNF 4 way union with female threads (1).
• Brake light switch - 3/8”UNF male thread.
• M8 nyloc nuts (4).
• 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts (6).
• 4mm split pins (2 off).
• Suitable washer to fit on the cross shaft.
• 3/16” “P” clips (12).
• No6 x 1/2” self-tapping screws (20).
• 1/4”UNF x 1” set screws (2).
Important safety note: The components in the hydraulic circuit have a mix of metric and imperial tube
connections. The brake master cylinder and most late XJ6 front calipers use M10 x 1.0 mm pitch threads.
The unions, tee pieces and hoses are generally imperial and use 3/8” UNF threads. The rear calipers likewise
are imperial and use 3/8” UNF threads. Take care to ensure that the correct fittings are used. The metric and
imperial threads are very similar. (3/8” UNF is 9.6 mm x 0.94mm pitch). Metric unions are generally gold in
colour and imperial silver.
Refer to appendix 7 for brake pipe union sizes and locations.
4.4.1 Pedals
Assemble the foot pedal tops to the arms with 4 of 5/16” x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts (imagine they are fitted in
the car and fit them to the outside of the pedal arms, this will give maximum room for pedal use), and locate
them in the chassis using the hollow cross shaft. When positioned correctly, the hole in the chassis should
line up with the hole in the pivot shaft this can be secured with a 4mm split pin or bolt. Fit the washer on the
cross shaft to retain the pedals in position. Mark the appropriate position of the washer, remove the cross
shaft and drill a hole for the other 4mm split pin. Reassemble the shaft with the washer and split pin. If the
pedals are too loose, adjust or fit another washer to rectify this, the pedals need to be loose enough to move
but not to tight they stick.
4.4.2 Brake master cylinder and servo
Install the servo using the drilled plate in the chassis placing the 8mm ID x 12mm spacers between the servo
unit and the plate. Make sure the top studs do not stick through too far and catch the pedals when depressed
fully, if they do remove the servo and shorten accordingly before securing with the 4 M8 nyloc nuts. Attach
the master cylinder rod to the brake pedal with the clevis pin and split pin provided. When fitting the
floorboards you need to check access to the split pin for maintenance. When happy grease the inside of the
master cylinder where the servo pin pushes on the piston before bolting into place.
4.4.3 Clutch master cylinder
Bolt the clutch master cylinder to the flange in the chassis using 2 of 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts.
Connect the master cylinder rod to the clutch pedal with the actuating rod, clevis pin & split pin with the
actuating rod screwed on to the master cylinder rod to give a satisfactory piston stroke when operating the
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clutch pedal and to get the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal, it is not unknown to sometimes need to
shorten the clutch master cylinder pushrod to achieve this. Tighten the 5/16” locknut on the master cylinder
rod to lock the actuating rod.
4.4.4 Rear brake line
Fix the longer brake line (R1) to the offside chassis rail and cross tubes using the No.6 x ½” self tapping
screws at appropriate points (at least every 300mm) and fitting “P” clips (see photo 5) most of these holes are
pre-drilled. The rear “T” piece should be fitted to the top differential carrier plate and the brake line should
have at least a 360° loop in it between the last fixing point and the “T” piece so that any movement of the
differential does not result in a fatigue failure of the pipe (photo 3). Secure the “T” piece with a 1/4” x
1”UNF set screw (drill and tap first) and the line using the 3/16” “P” and clips No 6 x 1/2” self tapping
screws. Connect this brake line to the forward most connection on the master cylinder.
4.4.5 Rear brake link pipes
Fit the two links (R2) from the rear three way union into the hole opposite the bleed nipple on the brake
calipers making sure the handbrake linkage will not catch on the pipes, then fit the two caliper link pipes
(R3) from one side of the caliper to the other.
4.4.6 Front brake flexi hoses
Fit the front brake flexible hoses to the brackets on the chassis and on the upper section of the disc protector
of the front hubs with lock nuts and shake proof internal “star” washers (these should come with the hoses –
photo 4). Make sure the hoses are sitting naturally and are not twisted in any way.
4.4.7 Front brake lines
Fit the front four way union to the chassis in the thread hole provided in the chassis just ahead of the master
cy
linder with the ¼”UNF x 1” set screw provided. Bend and fit the N/S front brake pipe (F1) to the from the
front of the four way union over the engine mount area then down under the front chassis member across to
the connection to the left hand front brake hose and fix to the front chassis member with P clips and No6 x
1/2” self tapping screws using the 3 holes drilled before fitting the steering rack (This pipe may have been
shaped for you by Suffolk Sportscars). Do the same with the shorter right hand brake pipe (F2) using the top
outlet in the four way union. Then connect the rear four way union outlet to the rear most connection on the
master cylinder (F3 this may require a banjo bolt)..
4.4.8 Brake lamp switch
The brake lamp switch fits in the final inward pointing position of the four way union. Screw the brake light
switch into the 4 way union using PTFE tape to seal if a tapered thread or a copper washer if a parallel thread
and tighten.
4.4.9 Front caliper link pipes
Last of the front brake pipes is the two caliper link pipes (f4) these link from the caliper to the flexi brake
hoses, once bent and fitted turn the steering to make sure they don’t catch on the upper ball joint mounts or
bolts and adjust if necessary.
Note: Make sure that the male unions in the master cylinder, calipers and “T” pieces and the female unions
on the brake hoses are tight enough to make a seal but not over tightened. A torque wrench is not suited here
but a torque of about 15 ft-lb is appropriate.
4.4.10 Clutch master cylinder pipes
Drill a suitable hole through the lower edge of the clutch master cylinder bracket underneath the pushrod
going from left to right and secure the flexi hose like before on the brakes, connect the flexi hose to the
master cylinder with the final piece of pipe (R4). The connection to the clutch slave cylinder obviously
cannot be made until the engine and gearbox are installed. To prevent any ingress of dirt, seal the end of the
hose with masking tape.
4.4.11 Bleeding brakes
Fill the brake hydraulic reservoir with hydraulic fluid and bleed the system of air. This can be done with a
low pressure bleeding system like Gunsons easy bleed or with a helper pressing the pedal for you, if using
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the later method get your helper to pump the pedal until pressure is felt then release the bleed nipple until the
pedal has dropped before closing the nipple and pumping again until fluid free from bubbles is coming out,
do this on the first brake before moving on. Always start at the brake furthest away from the master cylinder
and work closer, get the worst of the air out on the first circuit then repeat all brakes again and you should
have a good pedal. If your having difficulties jack the front of the car to help remove any air locks that may
be in the master cylinder, you will also have difficulties if you have a small leak as these can draw in air
although not necessary leak fluid (you may hear these rather then see them).
4.5 Fuel tank, fuel pump and fuel line
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Fuel tank.
• Fuel tank straps (2).
• Fuel pump.
• M10 nyloc nuts plus plain washers (2).
• Rubber webbing.
• Fuel tank sender complete with cork gasket.
• 5/16” (or 8mm) OD copper fuel line.
• 5/16” “P” clips (7).
• 5/16” ID fuel hose and hose clips (2).
• 1/4”UNF x 1/2” setscrews or No6 x 1/2” self tapping screws (7).
• 2BA x 3/8” cheesehead screws or socket head capscrews (6) (these could be M5 on some tanks –
check first).
• 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts (2).
4.5.1 Setting
tank fuel sender
The tank sender unit is supplied with the float arm separate from the actuating arm. Attach the float to the
arm by bending the end of the arm around the groove in the float making sure that the float is at the correct
attitude, i.e. its longitudinal axis parallel to the liquid level. The sender float arm should be pre-shaped for
you by Suffolk Sportscars, if not adjust the arm so the float is just off the bottom of the tank this should
leave the gauge reading empty when it still has a little fuel left for safety. The sender mounting flange is
marked
“TOP” to identify its correct attitude.
4.5.2 Fitting tank fuel sender
Coat the cork gasket both sides with sealing compound and secure the sender unit to the tank using the 6
x 2BA screws (or M5 please check with Suffolk Sportscars if unsure). Coat each screw with sealing
compound otherwise fuel can leak around the threads.
4.5.3 Fuel tank and straps
Attach the fuel tank straps to the forward attachment points on the chassis using the two 5/16” bolts & nyloc
nuts. Noting where the straps will fit around the fuel tank attach the rubber webbing temporarily holding it
with masking tape or similar. Alternatively glue the webbing to the straps with contact adhesive.
Fit the fuel tank in the chassis and secure it by inserting the stud ends of the straps in the rear chassis
attachment points and tightening using the nyloc nuts provided (the help of a second person makes this much
easier), alternatively use a trolley jack but do not over tighten or the tank will deform.
4.5.4 Fuel pump
Fit the fuel pump to the bracket provided on the chassis frame next to the clutch master cylinder using the
rubber mounts supplied with the pump, at the same time you can connect the earth cable supplied with the
pump to bypass the rubber mounts and earth the fuel pump making sure the chassis is clean of powder
coating where the earth is contacting, protect with grease after fitted. Install the copper fuel line running it
from the tank, where it is connected with a compression fitting supplied with the tank, to the pump suction
using the “P” clips and self-tapping screws. Continue the fuel line from the pump discharge through the
chassis and servo plate to end up just in front of the master cylinder ready to connect to the carburetors.
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Connect the fuel lines to the suction and discharge connections of the pump using the 5/16” fuel hose and
hose clips. The installation of an in line filter between the tank and the fuel pump is a wise, added
precaution although the pump does have its own filter, Suffolk Sportscars fit a filter under the bonnet before
the carbs where it is easier to see and clean when full.
Important Note - If your build continues for more than a month after the fuel tank has been received then
problems can arise from slight rust forming inside the tank. To avoid this the following precautions should
be observed:
1. Clean the tank and seal before installation or remove to do so.
2. Before using the tank fill with fuel and drain.
3. If reusing the fuel refill the tank through a fine gauze filter.
5 Engine, gearbox, exhaust system, cooling system & initial wiring
5.1 Engine, gearbox & prop-shaft
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Engine and gearbox assembly fully refurbished comprising:
o Engine complete with inlet manifold, carburetors & throttle linkage, air filters, exhaust
manifold, water pump, modified thermostat housing, thermostat, mechanical fan, distributor,
coil, ignition leads & plugs, oil filter, clutch, clutch slave cylinder, starter motor, oil pressure
and water temperature senders (if electrical gauges are used or adaptors if mechanical
gauges are used), gearbox including overdrive & inhibitor switch if fitted, reversing light
switch and polished aluminium gear knob.
• Engine mounting brackets (RH & LH specially made for the Suffolk SS100).
• Engine mounting rubbers (3) 2 for the engine and one for the gearbox.
• Special threaded adapter for gearbox mounting.
• Throttle cable & bracket.
• Alternator mounting bracket and mounting bolts.
• Fan belt tensioner & mounting bolt.
• Propshaft.
• 3/8”UNF special shouldered bolts for propshaft (8) and nyloc nuts (8).
• Gear lever knob.
• Gearbox mounting plate (part of chassis kit).
• 5/16”UNF x 11/4” bolts, plain washers & nyloc nuts (4).
• 3/8”UNF nyloc nuts (5).
• 3/8” mudguard washers (5).
• 7/16”UNF x 11/4” bolts & spring washers (7).
• 2 ft length of 3/8” ID vacuum hose plus hoseclips.
5.1.1 Engine brackets and timing pointer
Attach the RH & LH engine mountings to the engine using the 7/16”UNF bolts & spring washers. Tighten to
50ft-lbs. Fix a rubber engine mount to each bracket and secure each with a 3/8” mudguard washer and nyloc
nut, leave loose at this stage. Turn the crankshaft to TDC using the pointer. Undo and withdraw the two
lower most bolts (3/8”UNF) on the offside of the timing cover and attach the alternator bracket. Retighten
the bolts to 25 ft-lbs ensuring that the pointer is set back at TDC. Withdraw the top nearside bolt on the water
pump flange attach the fan belt tensioner and screw back but do not tighten at this stage.
5.1.2 Gearbox mount plate, rubber mount and adaptor
Attach the gearbox mounting plate to the 2 chassis brackets using the 4 5/16”UNF x 11/4” bolts, plain
washers & nyloc nuts with the plate offered up on top of the brackets and the nuts facing downwards. Screw
the special threaded adapter into the rear underside of the gearbox and screw a rubber engine mount into the
adapter.
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Safety note: The engine and gearbox assembly weighs 350 kg. Ensure that any lifting equipment is
adequately rated for this weight. This includes all strops, chains and shackles.
5.1.3 Fitting engine
Rig the engine and gearbox assembly to an engine crane using the two lifting eyes attached to the front &
rear cylinder head studs and install the unit to the chassis engaging the studs from the three rubber engine
mounts with the 2 front chassis brackets and the hole in the gearbox mounting plate. Secure with the
mudguard washers and nyloc nuts. The engine will need to be tipped back a little to allow it to drop under
the chassis hoop. Remember to remove the gear-stick if fitted before fitting the engine.
5.1.4 Clutch slave cylinder
If not already fitted install the clutch slave cylinder to the bell-housing using the studs fitted, insert the push
rod and eye into the slave cylinder and push piston in until it stops, adjust the pushrod until 2mm of free play
can be felt before locking up the lock nut. Fit the spring to the eye on one of the mount studs and connect the
other end to the pushrod eye mount pin.
5.1.5 Connect and bleed clutch
Connect the clutch hydraulic hose to the clutch slave cylinder. Fill the hydraulic reservoir with hydraulic
fluid and bleed the system. Check the clutch operation.
5.1.6 Servo vacuum hose
Using the 3/8” ID rubber vacuum hose and hose clips connect the servo vacuum connection to the inlet
manifold connection via the non-return valve, this may be from the donor or part of the servo elbow. If from
the donor take care to fit it the correct way round, i.e. allowing flow from the servo to the engine and not the
reverse.
5.1.7 Prop-shaft
Check that the rear prop-shaft flange mates correctly with the differential input shaft flange. If not correct to
fit. Connect the gearbox output flange to the differential flange with the modified prop-shaft using the 8
3/8”UNF special shouldered bolts & nyloc nuts. Tighten to 25ft-lbs. Note that the prop-shaft is fitted with
expanding splines closest to the engine.
5.1.8 Fuel and breather pipes
The fuel pipes can now be connected to the carburetors, from the front end of the metal fuel pipe join a short
length of fuel hose and run into a fuel filter, from here use another short length of fuel hose from the fuel
filter to a ‘T’ piece (some carburetors have a through feed for second carburetor and don’t need a ‘T’ piece).
If you have two ¼ inch pipes the upper is input and the lower is for overflow, fit another length of pipe to the
overflow and run this down to the bottom of the sump to vent safely. Refer to figure 6. The larger pipe if
fitted is a breather and needs to be connected to the engine front cover breather, pipes are available for this.
5.2 Exhaust system
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• 6 part stainless steel exhaust system comprising:
o Front downpipes incorporating flexible sections (2)
o Silencer boxes (2)
o Rear pipe (L/H)
o Rear pipe (R/H)
o Manifold to downpipe sealing rings (2)
• 21/8” exhaust pipe “U” bolt type clamps (4)
• Crossmember mounting rubbers (2)
• Rear mounting rubbers (flat type) - (2)
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• 3/8”UNF brass manifold nuts & spring washers (8)
• M8 x 25mm stainless bolts and stainless nyloc nuts (4)
• M8 x 20mm stainless bolt, stainless spring washer and stainless plain nut
• 1/4”UNF x 3/4” bolts & spring washers (4)
5.2.1 Down pipes or stainless manifold extension pipes
The exhaust system fits together as per Fig 3, assemble the exhaust down pipes/extension pipes on to the
manifolds and hang in place on the exhaust hangers with the supplied rubber mounts, check the hanger
mounts can’t touch and knock before locating and fitting the M8 x 20mm stainless tie bolt between the pipes
just after the flexi pipes. Once in place tighten the manifold to down pipe clamps/flanges.
5.2.2 Silencers
Install the silencers with the pipe entering the centre of the exhaust and exiting on the inside, then fit the rear
pipe sections in place and hang on the rear rubber mounts, mount the rear rubbers behind both the exhaust
and chassis using the inner of the two lugs supplied. Lift the exhaust to maximum height without it touching
on the chassis before tightening these mounts and fitting clamps at both ends of the exhaust silencers.
5.2.3 Rear tie bracket
Once happy with the position of the rear silencers make a bracket to span the gap between the two rear pipe
mounting lugs to tie the rear pipes together, if preferred you can use these lugs independently and mount
with rubber bushes into the rear diff plate.
5.2.4 Testing exhaust mounts
Shake both sections vigorously to simulate the vibration imparted by the engine in operation and if there are
any points of contact with the chassis, adjust the assembly to eradicate. Adjustment is easier using a lever
between the chassis and the mid mounting point.
5.3 Cooling system
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Radiator core
• Radiator mounting bushes and clips (2)
• Radiator top & bottom hoses and hose clips
• It is assumed that the by pass hose between the water pump and the inlet manifold has been fitted as
part of the engine rebuild. If not, one is needed with hose clips.
• Radiator hoop (from the chassis kit)
• Radiator pressure cap (15 psi)
• Electric cooling fan and control unit
• 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts (2)
• 5/16”UNF x 3/4” bolts & nyloc nuts (2)
• 5/16” plain washers as required
• 3/8”UNF x 2” bolts & spring washers (2)
5.3.1 Painting radiator and fitting cooling fan
First paint the radiator matt black (a spray can will give a good finish), then fit the electric cooling fan to the
radiator using the manufacturers instructions. The fan should be fitted on the front of the radiator
horizontally centered with the radiator core and fitted as high on the core as practical. If your fan is already
mounted remove it before painting then refit afterwards, We suggest painting the radiator as it can be seen
from behind the radiator shell grille and the cooling fan is less noticable.
5.3.2 Radiator hoop
Fit the radiator hoop to the chassis with the 5/16” x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts, use a measuring tape to ensure the
centre of the hoop is central to the chassis. The larger tabs point forward and are for mounting the radiator.
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5.3.3 Radiator lower mounts
Now fit the two bushes in the lower radiator mounting brackets and offer up the radiator to the car with a gap
of about 5 mm between its top and the hoop and with equal gaps at each side and with the top of the radiator
level with the back edge of the radiator hoop, ensuring that the radiator does not foul the chassis, it is also
helpful if possible to have the bottom hose pre-fitted at this point to ensure it will fit through the chassis in
the radiators final position. In this position mark and centre punch the hole centres for the mounting bolts in
the chassis plates provided. Drill and tap the attachment holes 3/8”UNF. Access for tapping is restricted. Use
a hand tap wrench with an extension. Never be tempted to use a drill to speed up the job.
5.3.4 Bottom hose
Fit the bottom hose to the radiator if not already done and secure with a hose clip. Access to this clip is
difficult with the radiator in position. Fit the radiator with the bushes and mounting clips with the 3/8” x 2”
bolts, mudguard washers and spring washers. Tighten to 25 ft-lbs. Fit the other end of the bottom hose to the
water pump and the top hose and secure with hose clips.
5.3.5 Radiator top mounts
Position the top of the radiator core relative to the positions mentioned above and drill the upper forward
facing fixing lugs 8mm and secure with 5/16”UNF x 3/4” bolts & nyloc nuts packing with 5/16” plain
washers as required, Keep the radiator hoop central during this process as this is also the front centre of the
bonnet. Fit the radiator pressure cap.
5.4 Initial wiring
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Wiring loom complete with fuse box & relays
• Cable clips and P clips (selection of sizes)
• Coil
• Oil pressure sensor (if electrical gauge being used)
• Water temperature sensor (if electrical gauge being used)
If using Suffolk Sportscars supplied gauges they are mechanical, the two switches above not required.
• Stop light switch
• Cooling fan and control switch
• Fuel pump
• Overdrive solenoid
• Overdrive inhibitor switch on gearbox
If using a gearbox other then a compact four with overdrive please contact Suffolk Sportscars
for additional information if required.
• Reversing lamp switch on gearbox (if fitting)
• Rear fog lamp (if fitting, legal requirement if donor 1980 or later)
• Reversing lamp (if fitting)
• Brake fluid low-level switch on reservoir (if fitted)
• Battery to starter motor supply lead (300A red cable with terminals)
• Battery to main earth lead (300A black cable with terminals)
• Short earth strap (300A black cable with terminals)
• Speedometer cable
• Crimp connectors (the most economic way to buy these is in a box of selected items containing those
most commonly required)
The list of wiring connections and their colour coding is given in appendix 1.
A loom placement diagram can be found in Appendix 2, figure 19.
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5.4.1 Front end wiring loom
Start by identifying the front end of the loom for the headlamps and engine and pass this through the servo
plate, to locate loom in correct position take the headlamp/horn connections (one or two white plugs for each
side) and place them behind and on each side of the chassis cross member that runs below the radiator. “P”
clip the front loom under the cross member in this position working back towards the servo plate pulling any
slack back through the servo plate.
5.4.2 Rear and gearbox loom
The wires for the rear electrical items and gearbox exit the main loom just above the relays, these need to
tied to the main loom down to the servo plate where the rear loom can head backwards through the chassis
openings and the gearbox loom can be attached to the angle chassis box section towards the gearbox.
Other cables in this area are White/Purple which goes to the fuel pump and Green with Green/Purple which
has to be taken forward through the servo plate for the brake lamp switch. Some of the same fixing points as
those used to secure the brake lines can be used by mounting 2 “P” clips back to back. Make sure that the
various connections are in the correct positions.
At this stage the following parts can be fitted if not already and connections made to them (use crimp or
solder connectors where required):
5.4.3 Coil
The coil should be bolted in an upright position near to the distributor, there are spare threaded holes in the
engine block, which can be used to mount a plate for the coil to be mounted on.
Coil connections
Loom wires
Power
+ Connection
White/Green
+12v Ignition switched
+ Connection
Red
+12v feed to electronic ignition distributor (optional)
- Connection
Black/White
Feed to mechanical distributor (not used on electronic ignition)
The other end of above wire needs to be connected to the distributor/points
- Connection
Black/yellow
-12v feed to tachometer
- Connection
Black
-12v feed to electronic ignition distributor (optional)
5.4.4 Electric oil gauge sender
If using electrical gauges the oil pressure sensor should be fitted into one of the six blanks in the oil ways in
the right side of the engine block, these run from front to back just above the join between sump and engine
block.
Oil pressure sender connection
Loom wires
Power
Single terminal
White/Brown
-12v Feed to oil pressure gauge
5.4.5 Electric water temp sender
If using electrical gauges the water temperature sensor needs to be fitted in the inlet manifold, there is a
position for this on the underside at the front of the manifold, fit this using PTFE tape or similar to save
small leaks from the thread of the switch.
Water temp sender connections
Loom wires
Power
Single terminal
Green/Blue
-12v Feed to water temp gauge
5.4.6 Stop lamp switch
The stop lamp switch is fitted into a four way brake union in the feed to the front brake pipes, this has two
terminals which can be connected either way around.
Stop lamp switch connections
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green
+12v Ignition switched feed
2nd Terminal
Green/Purple
+12v Switched output to lamps
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5.4.7 Cooling fan and switch
Install the cooling fan switch into the top of the radiator using a copper or aluminum washer to seal. If not
already fitted, install cooling fan to front of radiator. Insert supplied rubber bushes between fan and radiator
before pushing the special zip ties through the radiator core, fit four more rubber bushes between radiator
core and zip tie catch plate. Pull zip tie plates tight and cut excess tie off, make sure ends are not left sharp.
The cooling fan and switch can now be connected.
Cooling fan switch connections
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Black/Orange
-12v trigger to cooling fan relay
2nd Terminal
Black
-12v fly lead, connect eyelet end to chassis earth
Cooling fan connections
Blue
Chassis
Connect to chassis earth
Black
Orange
+12v fan feed from relay
Note, please check fan pushes air through radiator, and if fan rotates the wrong way please reverse blue and
black wires.
5.4.8 Fuel pump
The Fuel pump needs to be mounted using the two rubber mounts supplied to avoid excess vibrations, it is
mounted inside the main chassis near the clutch master cylinder. When wiring the fuel pump remember to
run an earth lead from the pump body to the chassis. It will not run otherwise as the rubber mounts insulate
it. An earth wire with two eyelets is supplied with the pump for doing this, make sure the metal is clean on
the chassis where you fit the earth wire as it will not work through the powder coat, protect this area with
grease after fitting earth wire.
Fuel pump wires
Loom wires
Power
Red
White/Purple
+12v Ignition switched
Pump case
Red fly lead
-12v Chassis
5.4.9 Overdrive solenoid
On the compact four gearbox with overdrive, the overdrive solenoid is fitted on the left side of the gearbox
and is a cylindrical solenoid with one cable exiting from its rubber boot.
Overdrive solenoid wires
Loom wires
Power
White
Yellow
+12v Relay controlled
Body
Earthed through gearbox
5.4.10 Overdrive inhibit switch
On the compact four gearbox with overdrive, the overdrive inhibit switch is fitted in the top of the gearbox, it
is the front of two switches and has two terminals which can be connected either way around. Its job is to
allow the overdrive to operate only when in forth gear.
Overdrive inhibit switch
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green
+12v Ignition switched
2nd Terminal
Yellow/Blue
+12v Inhibit switch control to dash switch
5.4.11 Reverse lamp switch
On the compact four gearbox the reverse lamp switch is the rear most switch in the top of the gearbox, it has
two terminals, which can be connected either way around.
Reverse lamp switch
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green
+12v Ignition switch
2nd Terminal
Green/Brown
+12v Switched feed to reverse lamp
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5.4.12 Fog lamp
If required the rear fog lamp can be fitted at this stage as access is better without the body
fitted. Fix the fog lamp to the rearmost cross member just inboard of the exhaust pipes on the offside. This
can then be connected up, make sure the main loom runs along the top of the chassis to allow enough cable
to reach inside each of the main rear lamps.
Rear fog lamp wires
Loom wires
Power
Red or White
Red/Brown
+12v Dash switched
Black
Black
-12v chassis earth
Note, If your donor car is 1980 or later a fog lamp is legally required, pre 1980 it is optional.
5.4.13 Reverse lamp
If required the reverse lamp can be fitted at this stage as access is better without the body
fitted. Fix the reverse lamp to the rearmost cross member just inboard of the exhaust pipes on the nearside.
This can then be connected up, make sure the main loom runs along the top of the chassis to allow enough
cable to reach inside each of the main rear lamps.
Reverse lamp wires
Looms wires
Power
Red or White
Green/Brown
+12v Gearbox switched
Black
Black
-12v chassis earth
5.4.14 Brake fluid reservoir wires
Some brake fluid reservoirs have a low fluid level switch on reservoir, there will be two wires or terminals
which can be connected either way around.
Brake fluid reservoir wires
Looms wires
Power
1st Terminal/wire
Black
-12v input,
2nd Terminal/wire
Black/White
-12v Switched output
Note, nearby the other end of the black wire has an eyelet that needs connecting to chassis earth.
5.4.15 Starter motor
The starter motor should be fitted to the bell housing using the supplied spacer ring and two small sleeves, fit
it with the soloniod uppermost. The wiring loom kit also includes a live battery cable which can be
connected to the starter motor at this point.
There may be two small terminals on the starter motor, later on remember if you car will not crank to try the
second terminal, depending on who rebuilt your alternator will depend which terminal works.
Starter motor connections
Looms wires
Power
Small spade terminal
White/Red
+12v from dash when cranking
Top Threaded connection
Red main battery cable eyelet
Main Terminal from battery
Note, nearby the White/Red is a spare Green ignition feed, this can be used for electronic ignition or
automatic cold start mechanisms (Aux carbs/AEDs) if required, use protection fuse.
5.4.16 Main battery earths
Also with the wiring loom comes two main battery cables earths, The longer item with the battery terminal
needs the eyelet connecting on the left side of the bell housing to engine mount using one of the 3/8 unf
bolts. The short earth strap needs connecting between the overdrive and the chassis, use one of the 5/16
overdrive mount nuts and one of the bolts that are used to mount the gearbox mount plate making sure the
powder coating is cleaned off the chassis to give a good earth, cover this area with grease when finished.
5.4.17 Speedometer cable
The speedometer cable can also be easily fitted at this point, take the speedometer cable and check out what
is needed to fit the gearbox end. The cable must not be bent to a radius of less than 4”. Depending on the
gearbox fitted it may be necessary either to make a suitable hole in the gearbox support plate or fit a right
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SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition)
angle drive unit. If you need the latter please contact Suffolk Sportscars.
Feed the cable from the gearbox to the rear of the dash via a suitable route taking care to meet the minimum
radius requirement. The cable will either need to come through a slot in the gearbox cover or can go through
the bulkhead, if the later make sure there is enough length to reach the speedometer.
6 Wheels & tyres
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• 18” 72 spoke wheels specially made for the Suffolk SS100 (5)
• 550 x 18 cross ply tyres, wheel bands and tubes, fitted (5)
Note : Wheel bands fit in the rim to protect the tube from the spoke fixings, as rim tape on a bicycle.
• Splined hubs (5)
• Spinners with SS logo (5)
• Hide & copper mallet
• Dummy 15” brake drums (4)
• Wheelnuts from donor (early type) - (20)
6.1 Splined hubs
Fit 4 splined hubs and the 4 dummy brake drums to the hubs and secure each with 5 wheel nuts using
Loctite and tighten to 75ft-lbs. You will have two types of hubs; two right hand and here left hand the third
left hand being for the spare wheel. If using your own donor wheel nuts these may need shortening so they
don’t catch on the inside of the wire wheels, contact Suffolk Sportscars if unsure or if you need yours
exchanged for ready shortened nuts.
6.2 Preparing wheels
If wheels have been painted it is very important to remove any paint from the internal splines, the internal
taper which mates with the hub, and the external taper which mates with the spinner. Failure to do this can
cause a wheel to seize preventing removal or can cause a spinner to loosen in service.
6.3 Fitting wheels
Grease the splines, tapers and threads on each hub and locate wheels on the hubs. Grease the outer flange of
the wheels and inside the threaded part of the spinners before fitting.
Note: The offside hubs are left hand threaded and the nearside are right hand threaded.
Tighten each spinner by hand followed by the hide end of the mallet (i.e. tighten all spinners with a
downward stroke of the mallet on the spinner lug towards the rear of the car). The spare hub and spinner will
be fitted to the back of the car for the spare wheel later.
7 Body, doors and bonnet fitting
7.1 Body
• GRP body shell with doors fitted on brass hinges**
• Dashboard stays (2) - from chassis kit
• Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
• Bonnet catch hooks, S/S with nuts & washers (4)
• 7/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts (2)
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• 5/16” UNF x 11/2” bolts & nyloc nuts (4)
• 5/16” UNF x 2” bolts & nyloc nuts (6)
• 3/8” & 5/16” plain washers as needed
• 5/16” mudguard washers - as needed
• Selection of spacers
• 1/4”UNF x 1” countersunk headed screws & nyloc nuts (2)
• 5/16” UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts (4)
**Note: The door hinges are marked as follows: A - R/H top; B - R/H bottom; C - L/H top; and D - L/H
bottom
Fitting the body to the chassis is very straightforward. It requires 3 people, one lifting each side near the door
positions and one at the front to stabilise and direct.
There are a total of 16 fixing locations for the body to the chassis see Appendix 2, figure 17.
10 horizontal fixings:
• A&F At floor level beneath the scuttle, these take 5/16” or M8 bolts.
• B&E At floor level behind the seats, these take 5/16” or M8 bolts.
• C&D Above the rear suspension behind the seat, these take 7/16” or M10 bolts.
• G,H,J&K The 4 bonnet catch hooks which fasten the inner rim of the front wings to the chassis.
Plus 6 vertical fixings marked with a * in figure 17.
• 2 in the luggage locker area where vertical brackets on the chassis upper member are fastened to the
inner wings taking 5/16” or M8 bolts.
• 4 in the lower flanges of the body frame beneath and in front of the passenger compartment. These
take 5/16” or M8 bolts and fix to brackets on the chassis member.
7.1.1 Lifting on the body
Make sure your chassis is ready to accept your body, if fitted remove your alternator, dipstick and air filters
including the back plates. Fitting the body to the chassis is very straightforward, it requires 3 people, one
lifting each side near the door positions and one at the front to stabilise and direct. Lift the body, walk it to
the chassis and lower it on to the chassis allowing the fixing holes A to K to mate. Take care as the bulkhead
will be very close to the camshaft oil feed pipes, this area could be protected with cardboard if preferred.
7.1.2 Bolting on the body
Bolting the body to the chassis can now commence. It is very important that the fixing bolts do
not place strain on the body because this will pull the door apertures out of line and result in poor shut lines.
The body at fixing points B to E and G to K are shimmed as necessary at the factory before delivery so the fit
should be satisfactory, place the shims or washers in the relevant positions as indicated on the diagram
supplied marked with the red dot. Do not fit A, F and vertical fixings at this point.
Note: Not all positions require a shim, and a gap at positions C and D is not unusual as these fixing
points, when fully tightened will open the door aperture to the correct shape for the door.
Once the shims are in position, the bolts and bonnet securing hooks can now be fitted but not tightened until
all fixings are in place.
Note: Although the holes in the body have been drilled to give a clearance fit for the bolts, the holes in
the chassis may be tight due to the powder coating. If this is the case the powder coating may be filed
out to allow fitment. Try not to file more then necessary to avoid exposing the steel, if steel is exposed
ensure the bolts are coated with grease on fitting to avoid rust forming in the bolt holes.
7.1.3 Body Tightening sequence
Once all shims, bolts and bonnet hooks are in position tightening can commence, the best sequence to tighten
points is B & E followed by G & K then H & J and finally C & D.
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7.1.4 Door fitting
With the body bolted down with the supplied spacers you must now fit the doors to check that they fit and an
even gap is obtained at the front and rear of the doors. If this fit is not satisfactory mark or measure shims at
positions B & E or C & D (incase you need to return to factory positions) before adjusting these to improve
the door fit.
Note: Any one spacer can affect the fit of both doors.
The front, rear and bottom of the doors should follow the contour of the body, if this is not the case remove
the hinges and drill the body door pillar to 7mm. Refit the hinges and doors, the door hinge can now be
gently taped in or out with a block of hardwood to achieve a good line. This must be done and door gap
satisfactory before carrying on to next step.
7.1.5 Final body mount bolts and spacers
Next measure the gaps between the body and the chassis frame plate or bracket at each of the 6 vertical
fixings and at points A & F, make up washer & shim packs (using “mudguard” washers or other spacers), cut
the 5/16” unf x 2” bolts to the required length and fix each with a nyloc nut. It is important that you check
the door alignment after each spacer is bolted in because if any of these points are not sitting in their relaxed
position they may change the door shut lines. To help locate the hole positions for the vertical mounts refer
to figure 8 for details on a suitable jig. This must be done and door gap satisfactory before carrying on to
next step.
7.1.6 Windscreen wiper/scuttle bracket
Place the windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket in position centrally on the plate welded to the centre of
the scuttle hoop and firmly against the bulkhead. (The bracket is fitted so that it turns upward against
bulkhead and downward facing into the car to accept the wiper motor and “U” clip). Drill through the
bulkhead through the 2 holes in the bracket (6.5mm drill), countersink the holes on the engine bay side and
bolt the bracket to the bulkhead with 2 1/4”UNF x 1” countersunk headed screws & nyloc nuts. Mark the
positions of the 2 holes on the scuttle hoop plate through to the bracket, remove the bracket and drill them
8.5mm. Fit the bracket in position and temporarily secure it with 2 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts and nuts to check
that they fit - then remove them.
7.1.7 Dashboard stays
Loosely bolt the ends of the dashboard stays, which are drilled, to the lugs under either side of the dashboard
using 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts. Align the other ends of the stays over the holes in the scuttle hoop
plate and wiper motor bracket and mark the centers of the holes to be drilled in the stays. The stays may need
slight bending or twisting to correct the alignment. Like the body mount spacers these need to sit naturally
without pulling the body in either direction.
Remove the stays, drill 8.5mm and fix the stays in position using the 2 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts.
This must be done and door gap satisfactory before carrying on to next step.
7.2 Bonnet
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Radiator hoop stays (2) - from chassis kit
• Bonnet kit comprising:
o louvred aluminium sections
o 1 centre stainless steel piano hinge with 5/16” brass pin
o 2 side stainless steel piano hinges with 1/4” brass pin
o 16 alloy rivets
o Front & rear chrome fixings for the centre hinge
• Chrome bonnet studs (4)
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• Ripault bonnet catches (4)
• Bonnet webbing
• Radiator shell
• Radiator cap & badge
• Radiator grill
• Radiator shell lower mounting brackets (“Z” brackets) - (2)
• 5/16” UNF x 3/4” bolts & nyloc nuts (2)
• M10 nuts (4)
• M10 spring washers (2)
• 2BA x 1/2” countersunk screws (2)
• M6 x 15mm bolts, nuts and spring washers (4)
• M4 x 10mm chrome headed (or polished SS) domed countersunk screws & nyloc nuts (16)
• 3mm alloy pop rivets – for temporary use (16)
Cutting and preparing your own bonnet is an option, Suffolk Sportscars will be happy to cut and prepare
y
our bonnet if required.
7.2.1 Bonnet details
The bonnet is handmade in 4 louvered aluminium panels, two top panels and two side. The long edges of the
panels are folded in a “U” section. These are held together by three stainless steel piano hinges whose edges
are similarly folded and slide into the panels. The top hinge is held in place by 4 alloy rivets, and each side
hinge by 6 alloy rivets, 16 in all. Through each piano hinge is a brass rod, which can be removed to
dismantle the bonnet. The centre (larger) hinge has a 5/16” brass rod. It is fixed to the car at the rear with an
end fitting having an M6 stud passing through the bulkhead and held with a nyloc nut. The front is fixed by
an end fitting which is attached by 2BA screws through the radiator shell into the radiator hoop. The two
outer (smaller) hinges have a ¼” brass rod and attach the side panels to the top panels. To the lower edge of
each side panel are fixed two “Ripault” bonnet catches which mate with hooks fixed to the chassis rail.
7.2.2 Bonnet fitting/cutting advice
Fitting the bonnet may seem a daunting task for those tackling it for the first time. However it requires more
patience than skill to achieve a successful result. Remember to check and double check all dimensions before
cutting any metal. Aim to trim a little at a time, check fitting the panels at each stage. Metal can easily be
removed but not added. Filing rather than cutting the last 1mm is a sound strategy if somewhat laborious.
It is most important to the overall appearance of the car that the shut lines (the gaps between the bonnet
panels and the body and radiator shell) are consistent.
The eye will pick up any lack of evenness. Consistency is much more important than the absolute value.
However a gap of at least 3mm is necessary. Any less than this and movement of the panels with the car in
motion can cause the edge of the panel to contact the bodywork and chip the paint. 3mm is a good aim (a £1
coin is a useful gauge).
The aluminium panels are very soft and will deform and scratch very easily detracting from the finished
presentation. The utmost care is required when handling and cutting them. Always carry the panels one at a
time taking care not to knock them on anything. Always work with them on a bench covered with soft carpet.
7.2.3 Preparing centre hinge
The first step is to prepare the hinges. The centre (
larger) hinge must have an overall length of 49 ¼“
including the two end fittings (front & rear), which are each 1” long so the stainless steel part of the hinge
must be 47 ¼“ long. The 5/16” brass rod must be longer, just a little less than 49 ¼” to accommodate the end
fittings. Cut the stainless steel part to exactly 47 ¼ “. It pays to measure, check and measure again before
cutting. Be careful to pull the brass rod out of the hinge a little way so you are not cutting it and cut squarely
in both planes. Now slide the brass rod back into the full length of the hinge and cut it to length so that the
two end fittings mate with the ends of the hinge when assembled. Drill four 4 holes to accept the 3mm pop
rivets, 2 in each “U” section 20 mm from the ends of the hinge. Each set of holes must be deburred so that
the aluminium panels can slide easily into place. Do this with a hacksaw blade for the inner surfaces and a
countersink bit for the outer surfaces. Suffolk Sportscars usually does this for you.
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7.2.4 Preparing outer hinges
Now prepare the two outer hinges. Cut these to a length of 44”. For these hinges the length of the ¼” brass
rod must be the same as the stainless steel part. Drill 6 holes to accept 3mm rivets, 3 in each U section,
2 pairs 15 mm from each end and one pair in the centre. These holes must also be deburred as above.
Suffolk Sportscars usually does this for you.
7.2.5 Positioning top hinge
To find the centre of the bulkhead, locate a length of flexible wire or string and use the following method.
Starting at the point where the body lip for the bonnet meets the running board, run the wire up the lip to the
mould join with is near the centre, mark the body and wire here with a pen, now repeat this on the other side
and mark the body again. Repeat this operation to check positions.
Now there should be two marks on the lip, measure and mark the centre between these two marks on the lip,
this will be the centre of the lip.
7.2.6 Radiator hoop and long stays
Next fit the radiator hoop with the smaller tabs pointing rearward and finger tighten the 5/16 x ¾ unf bolts.
Next install the long radiator hoop stays and adjust these to give a dimension of 45 ½” between the rear edge
of the radiator hoop and the scuttle face where the tie bar passes through it. The radiator hoop bolts and stays
can now be fully tightened. Now check the centre of the radiator hoop is central to the body, if not lean on
the hoop to make it so.
Then run a piece of string from the centre of the hoop to the mark previously made on the body/bonnet lip
and check all looks straight, adjust if necessary. When happy with alignment drill a 6mm hole for the rear
bonnet fitting so that the rear of the bonnet fitting sits just in front of the lip which accepts the bonnet panels.
7.2.7 Radiator shell
Attach the radiator shell lower mounting “Z” brackets (It helps to slot the 6mm bolt holes in these brackets to
allow for adjustment) to the radiator hoop which is ready drilled with two 6mm holes with the M6 bolts &
nuts. Fix the top of the shell in position using the front central hinge fixing using 2BA x 1/2” countersunk
screws. It helps to first slot the two top holes in the shell also for fine adjustment. Attach the other end of the
Z brackets to the shell with M4 x 10mm countersunk screws and nuts. Adjust the shell so that the top rear
edge of the shell is at 90 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the car in plan view. With the shell in the correct
position, tighten the top and bottom fixings.
7.2.8 Top hinge and bonnet webbing
If your radiator has been supplied chromed ensure that it is protected by masking tape before proceeding.
Install the top hinge and adjust the long stays if necessary so that there are no gaps between the hinge and the
front and rear hinge mounts (approx length 49 ¼ “).
Fit the bonnet webbing to the scuttle and radiator shell using double-sided tape (Temporary) before body
painted and radiator shell chromed or impact glue after body painted and shell chromed.
7.2.9 Fitting Bonnet panels
If your radiator shell has been supplied chromed it may be safer to remove the hinge before sliding the
bonnet panels into the hinge. The bonnet panels may be a tight fit in the hinge and may not slide easily, if
this is the case do not be tempted to tap the panels with a mallet as this will cause damage to the soft
aluminium panels.
If the panel does not slide easily when tapped by hand then WD40 or similar may help this operation.
Note: If using lubricant of some form be sure to inform the body shop so they can wash out any
residues that may cause paint problems.
Next apply 1” wide masking tape following the line of the bonnet lip on the scuttle and radiator shell, this
will help guide you when marking the panels before cutting. Now if removed refit the hinge and top bonnet
panels back on the body, slide the panels back until the rear edge just covers the shut line all along the rear
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edge.
Lift both panels to the upright position and check that the louvres on both panels align with each other, adjust
if needed and lower back down before checking the rear edge of both panels still cover the shut line.
Note: at this stage we will concentrate on the rear edge only, the front is over length and will be
dealt with next.
7.2.10 Securing top bonnet panel
When satisfied with the position of the top bonnet panels, make sure the bonnet panel is sitting against the
hinge before drilling through the bonnet using the holes in the hinge to guide you and secure with temporally
secure with some M3 nuts and bolts.
7.2.11 Marking the bonnet panels
Use two straps to gentle hold the bonnet in the closed position in alignment with the bonnet hooks, this will
ensure when the bonnet is held closed with the ripaults it will sit in the same place, (too much or too little
tension can change the position of the bonnet gaps).
The masking tape on the scuttle can now be used as a guide for marking the position for the first cut. Run a
second length of masking tape over the length already applied on the scuttle, this will overlap the bonnet by a
few millimeters.
Run a third length of masking tape on the bonnet panel 2mm away from the second length of masking tape,
the overlapping length can then be removed leaving you with a length on the bonnet running 2mm away
from the length underneath the panel, this is your guide for your first cut.
7.2.12 Cutting the top bonnet panels
Remove the hinge and panels and/or slide out the bonnet panel just enough to allow access to cut the bonnet
panel near to the guide line, this is best done with a sharp, quality pair of tin snips, reposition the panels
gently re strap them and check the alignment and gap size at the rear of the bonnet.
Note: Do not rush, the best gaps take time to perfect, its better to take off a small amount then check,
if you need to remove 1mm or less this is best done slowly with a file rather then tin snips.
The ideal size gap between the bonnet and the scuttle shut line is 3mm, this will avoid paint damage from
rubbing when driving your car, the edge of a one pound coin is a good way to help achieve this. Repeat the
above process until a satisfactory fit is achieved. Next move to the front end of the top bonnet panels, check
the radiator shell is sitting straight with the body, the above operation can now be repeated with the front
edge of the top bonnet panels. Once again do not rush, this takes time to make a good job. When happy
with the fit of the top bonnet panels, remove the temporally fixings and replace with 3mm pot rivets.
7.2.13 Fitting side hinges
With the centre hinge and top panels fitted on the car, fit the side hinge onto the left hand top panel, make
sure it is central between the bulkhead and the radiator shell. Mark this position and repeat for the right hand
top panel.
Remove the bonnet and drill the top bonnet panel through the predrilled holes in the hinge, these can then be
secured with the 3mm pot rivets as before.
7.2.14 Fitting bottom bonnet panels
The next operation will require an assistant to help you. Refit the top bonnet panels and hinges to the body
and slide the left bottom panel onto its hinge to its correct position leaving sufficient metal on both front and
rear edges for trimming also ensure that the holes for the ripaults catches line up with the hook positions in
the body. Mark this position and repeat with the other side before sliding out the bottom panels and
removing the bonnet from the car (taking the bottom panels off will make it easier to remove bonnet). Slide
the bottom panels back into the marked position leaving a 2mm gap between the top and bottom panels when
the bonnet is in the closed position (a 2mm thick washer adjacent to the hinge fixing hole is a good way to
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achieve this) now drill a 3mm hole through the panel in the predrilled hinge hole. Temporally attach the
bottom panels with M3 nuts and bolts.
Fit the four ripaults on the bottom panels using M4 screws and nuts and refit bonnet to the car.
Adjust the height of the bonnet hooks so that the catches fit and apply even tension to the bonnet panels.
7.2.15 Bottom bonnet beaded edge
The lower edge of the bottom panels have a rolled beaded edge, this will need removing where the beading
overlaps radiator shell and cutting at an angle at the rear edge to able the bonnet to sit closer to the bulkhead.
Mark the area to be cut before removing the bottom panels and trimming with a cutting disc in an angle
grinder. Make sure you clean these up with a file so you don’t have any sharp edges.
Note: Take care doing this so that the panel in the surrounding area is not damaged.
7.2.16 Cutting bottom panels
Now you can repeat the cutting operation with the bottom panels in the same way as you did for the top
panels, starting with the rear edge then the front. Each time making sure the bonnet is held down square with
the ripaults. When a satisfactory fit and gaps have been achieved remove the complete bonnet before laying
it down and removing the three brass hinge pins that hold the bonnet together, this will leave you with four
panels that are easier to handle.
7.2.17 Riveting the bonnet panels
To finish the bonnet panels these must now have the proper rivets fitting, drill out the pot rivets or remove
M3 bolts one at a time and replace with the sixteen alloy rivets supplied for a permanent fixture. Finally,
carefully peen over the bonnet ‘U’ section at the end of each bonnet that is not covered by the hinge, this will
help the bonnet sit flatter to the body/radiator shell, see figure 5.
The help of second person is needed to hold the panels whilst riveting and peening to ensure the panels are
laying flat on a smooth steel surface to save damage to the panels.
7.2.18 Fitting bonnet studs
The bonnet studs are fitted so when the bonnet is opened the louvres don’t touch on each other and damage
the paint they sit on the studs instead, these holes will need drilling in your bonnet. You will need to drill
two holes in each of the top bonnet sections, the holes should all be 65 mm from the centre line of the bonnet
with the front ones 95 mm from the front edge of the bonnet and the rears 190 mm from the rear edge of the
bonnet. De-burr the holes and test fit the chrome plated studs.
7.3 Painting
7.3.1 Body preparation and painting
If the builder is not satisfied with the door shut lines at this point, one option is to take the car in its present
state before removing the body, to the body shop where finishing and painting is to take place, and
ask them to adjust the shut lines. This can be done by gently removing material from the doors and in some
cases building up with resin and refinishing. If this is to be done it is important that all body to chassis
fixings remain tight as per the finished car.
Now remove all the fittings from the body and remove the body from the chassis for finishing and painting.
To help ensure that the radiator hoop and shell fit back in exactly the same position following dismantling
for painting, it is important that the settings of the radiator hoop to scuttle long stays are fixed. To do this
mark the position of the M10 nuts ahead of the scuttle hoop on the threaded part of the stays, an easy way of
doing this is with a piece of masking tape wrapped around the thread.
The following additional points are intended as a guide:
• Label all nuts, bolts, fixings, spacers, shim packs etc. so it is clear where they belong.
• After removing the bonnet, dismantle into the 4 separate panels by gently tapping out and
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withdrawing the brass hinge pins.
• Remove the doors from the body and the hinges from the doors and body carefully marking all
components so they are reassembled in exactly the same place. This is vital to maintain the door
shut lines.
• The body can be made stable for transportation by bolting it to two 3” x 2” timbers 5 ft long. 4 angle
brackets are needed which bolt to the 4 holes in the lower body flange under the passenger
compartment. The brackets in turn can be bolted to the timbers. The body shell can then easily be
transported on an average size trailer.
• Most of the original SS100’s had the interior surfaces of the bonnet painted.
Note: While the body is away for painting is a good time to fill the engine and gearbox with oil. Refer to
Appendix 4 for the correct lubricants.
7.3.2 Refitting body
Upon receipt of the finished and painted body, refit it to the chassis and repeat all the relevant parts
of section 7. Remember that extra care is now needed to protect the final body finish. The following points
are worthy of thought.
•
Cover the running boards and front and rear wings with cotton for protection. New, unwashed
material actually contains sharp fibres which can scratch the paintwork. Always put any material
through the washing machine first. This softens the fibres.
•
Do not use impervious material eg polythene directly in contact with the new paintwork, it can cause
“sweating”and damage to the finish.
•
When using hand tools, particularly screwdrivers close to the bodywork, protect the surface either
with the free hand or in some other way.
•
Rubber gaskets fitted between any metal surfaces fixed directly to the bodywork are not essential but
will help protect the finished paintwork.
•
Get a small quantity of paint left over from the body shop. This will be needed for the windscreen
pivot holes as well as any (hopefully none) scratches and chips that may occur.
7.3.3 Refitting doors
After the body has been painted and has been refitted using all your original spacers and bolts, check the
fitment of the doors again, due to the thickness of paint the door alignment may be affected. This can be
remedied by marking the positions of the hinges on the doors pillars before removing the doors and hinges,
you can then carefully file away the layer of paint (work towards the interior of the car to save splintering the
edge).
If the door is sitting down at the front, file the paint on the top hinge position, if the door is sitting high at the
front, file the paint from the bottom hinge position. If more adjustment is needed repeat the same procedure
on the door hinge position. If you have any issues with fit this must be sorted before fitting of the
floorboards.
7.3.4 Refitting painted bonnet
It helps to have an assistant to do this, lay the bonnet on a clean section of carpet or blanket before
lubricating the brass hinge pins with copper grease or WD40. Tap the pins gently into the joined hinges, it
can be easier to do the bottom panels once the top hinge and panels are fitted to the car.
Install the radiator shell with your chosen badge and dummy radiator cap and grille and fit a neoprene seal to
the bottom edge above the valance to save rubber the paint.
Reset the hoop, long stays and radiator shell to their original positions and loosely bolt the rear bonnet pin
mount to the bulkhead. Then lift the bonnet and insert the rear of the centre pin into the rear pin mount
before fixing the front end through the radiator shell and into the hoop (its easier to have help to do this). The
rear mount can then also be tightened.
The clearance gap at the front of the bonnet may need adjustment, this can be achieved at the top by
loosening the screws securing the front hinge mount then moving the radiator shell to suit, and at the bottom
end by loosening the ‘Z’ brackets moving them in their slotted holes or rotating the brackets around the
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fixing screw.
7.3.5 Safe storage
After you have all your body fixings, the doors and bonnet in place and are happy with there positions it can
be safer to remove them and store them safely until you are finished with under bonnet connections or you
are ready to trim the interior.
Remember, if you need to remove any body bolts or stays for any reason you must re-check door fit before
you proceed.
8 Body fittings.
8.1 Floorboards, handbrake and seat runners
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Handbrake cable.
• Handbrake assembly (complete with “handbrake on” switch if fitted).
• Handbrake lever “S” bracket with fixings.
• Modified seat runners.
• Floorboard set see figure15 for layout and brake access panel.
• Transmission tunnel & gearbox cover.
8.1.1 Handbrake cable
Fit the handbrake cable to the rear calipers and ensure that the return springs are in place between the
calipers and the holes in the rear damper mount washers. Adjust the handbrake calipers as per Haynes
manual Chapter 9, Section 15.
8.1.2 Positioning of inner seat runner and fixing of main floorboards
Jobs 2 to 7 are best done temporally before removing the floorboards for stain protection. Referring to fig 7
as a guide, plan out where the longitudinal chassis rail tabs should be drilled and/or tapped to secure the
inner seat runners. The inner seat runners are easier to measure and pilot drill before the floorboards are
fitted, with these positions located and pilot drilled with a 4mm drill bit you can place in position the 4 main
floorboards so they’re a snug fit against the body.
If possible clamp the floorboards in position before marking the positions for the two seat belt fixings and
the four inner seat runner mounts on the underside of the floorboards, also mark in the chassis the two bolt
positions in each of the four main floorboard sections.
Remove the floorboards before drilling clearance holes for the seat belt mounts and pilot holes for the seat
runner mounts in the floorboards, then drill and tap the eight floorboard mount holes, these need to be taped
to suit the supplied M6 x 25 mm screws. Clean the drillings away before fitted the floorboards back in and
hold in place with the supplied screws.
8.1.3 Outer seat runner position
Next using a square and rule measure the positions for the outer seat runner referring to fig 7, the runner
mount holes are 330 mm apart and the inner and outer runners should be 285 mm apart. Make sure they are
parallel because if not, they will not slide once the seat frame is bolted on. These can be pilot drilled before
removing the floorboards once more, with the floorboards out you can drill clearance holes in the floorboards
and drill and tap the chassis to suit the 5/16 unf cap head bolts supplied, the inner mount can be mounted
with a nyloc if preferred.
Note: In order to locate the seats in the optimum position it is best to drill and mount the seat bases
after the seats and side panels are trimmed and the full finished size of the seats and check straps are
apparent.
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8.1.4 Rear floorboard upright mount
Check the rear end of the floorboards are parallel with each other and roughly level with the metal cross tube
above, then offer into place the two alloy angle sections (one side is longer then other as differential is
offset). They need to be bolted underneath the floorboards with the return coming up to mount the rear
upright, you will need to cut a relief in them to take the main chassis rail that’s under the floorboard.
Temporally bolt these in place before offering up the prop-shaft cover, you will need to shorten the top
section of the alloy angles to allow the prop-shaft cover to sit back and the front face of each to be in line.
Once done lift the prop-shaft cover out and fit these angles in place.
8.1.5 Rear floorboards
Now you can trial fit the three rear floorboard sections, due to variances in bodies these will need the sides
trimming in places to allow them to fit. The upright panel has a wood spacer on the rear face to allow for the
internal hinge, if you are having the extra tool tray (optional) this is not needed and can be removed and the
top board shortened to suit. On the upright and short top section should be a line from front to back approx
180 mm from the sides, this is a guide to where to cut the panels for rear brake access and can be drawn
straight and true across the two panels, use a pencil to mark the six sections that you will have once cut so
you can get them back in the same order, if your very skilled at woodwork you could cut these at an angle to
make them sit and seal nicer, cut the top board first as the upright will need to be slightly narrower to suit the
angle on the top board. Remove these two panels and cut along your marked lines then offer back into the
car. With the floorboards cut and all in place the four end sections and the rear fuel tank cover can all be
fixed in place with the supplied screws, two in each would be sufficient. That will leave the opening section
for brake access.
8.1.6 Rear brake access panel and tool tray
If you are not having a tool tray the remaining two panels can be fitted with the four hinges supplied, use two
on top of the top board to fuel tank cover and two on the inside between the top panel and the upright below,
this will enable the panels to open like a piano lid. They will need a screw into the alloy angle to hold them
closed.
If you’re having the optional tool tray both sections can be mounted with a screw in each of the four corners,
remove the top panel and trial fit the tool tray in the open recess. You may need to reposition the handbrake
return springs for this. Once happy on position and fit, mount the tool tray to the panel with countersunk
screws and nuts, then decide on a lid size and shape. You can then remove the tool tray, cut your lid size
before refitting the tool tray and hinging the lid with hinges supplied.
8.1.7 Handbrake lever
The next thing to do is to temporally fit the handbrake lever, Mark on the right hand floor board the position
of the rear edge of the prop-shaft hoop, place in the prop-shaft cover (the covers rear return should be behind
the floor board upright, you may need to trim the upright for this) and transfer the mark from the floor to the
prop-shaft cover.
This is the position for the rear end of the handbrake mount, measure the length of the handbrake mount
(approx 180 mm) and cut this length out of the prop-shaft cover flange.
Reposition the prop-shaft cover and offer up the hand brake you will need to mark and cut a slot in the
floorboard for the lever to drop through, this will start in front of the prop-shaft hoop and end before the front
mount hole, your mount holes can also be drilled at this point with the rear mount being drilled through the
prop-shaft hoop and the front only through the floorboard. The handbrake needs to be between straight and
the tunnel cover angle, too straight and your fingers will get stuck between tunnel and handbrake, angled
with tunnel will make it too close to passenger seat and look odd.
8.1.8 Staining and refitting the floorboards
Remove the floorboards and all the fittings and clean all the drill swarf and dust off the chassis. Stain the
floorboards with a high quality stain, it can be easier to get an even coat using a lint free rag to apply the
stain. Leave the floor to dry before refitting permanently.
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8.1.9 Handbrake lever
The handbrake lever can now be fully fitted with its brackets and connected up to the handbrake cable. Bolt
the rear handbrake mount through the floorboard, prop-shaft hoop and cable retaining bracket using the
supplied bolts. The front handbrake mount has a ‘S’ bracket which mounts under the floor between the
handbrake mount and the chassis and is secured with the supplied 5/16 unf bolts. You can then connect up
the handbrake cable, the outer cable needs two nuts fitted, one either side of the cable retaining bracket, the
inner cable attaches to the handbrake pivot fitting again with a nut on either side. Use these nuts to adjust the
cable so that the handbrake comes up ideally 5 or 6 clicks.
8.1.10 Gearbox cover
The standard gearbox cover supplied by Suffolk Sportscars is for the compact four gearbox with overdrive,
other types are available please phone to advise of your spec. Referring to Fig 22 prepare your gearbox cover
by drilling holes for access to starter motor bolts, gearbox switches and speedometer cable (optional could
reach through bulkhead). Also cut the hole to accept the gear stick, don’t cut this too big, trial fit the
gearbox cover to find position and size of hole required. You may need to do this a few times, make sure the
cover fits as far forward as possible, you may need to cut two slots in the tunnel to accept the strengthening
ribs on the gearbox top.
When ready to fit the gearbox and prop-shaft cover, draft excluder fitted to the forward face of the gearbox
cover will act as a seal between the engine and passenger compartment. Spread the rear edges of the gearbox
cover and tunnel mouldings to give good clearance for the prop shaft flanges (remember that the gearbox
will move sideways when cornering against its rubber mount). This is easier with the help of a second person
underneath the car using a bar as a lever. When satisfactory secure them both by drilling and fitting 5/8” No
6 countersunk head woodscrews. Fit the gear knob to the gearlever (this will have to be removed for
trimming but safer to have it fitted now as gear sticks can be sharp).
8.1.11 Alloy chassis cover plates
The last parts to fit to the floorboards are the two alloy cover plates that fill in the rear corners at the back of
the main floorboards, mark the and drill positions for the seat belt mounts before fitting these in place with
screws.
8.1.12 Sealing floorboards
The floorboards can now be sealed in with flashband (self adhesive flashing tape available from builders
merchants) all round the edges and down the sides of the gearbox cover, the access holes can also be
covered. The front of the right hand side will need a bridging plate made from alloy or wood before covering
with flashband.
8.2 Windscreen and wipers
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Windscreen assembly
• Windscreen sealing rubber
• Windscreen wiper motor and “U” bracket
• Windscreen wiper rack, wheelboxes complete with 4 fixing nuts (7/16”UNF)
• Wiper arms and blades
• Side mirrors (2) plus 2BA screws (4)
• Windwings (2) (Optional)
• Aeroscreens (2), fitting brackets (4) & screws (8)
• 8no. Tenex Studs + spring washers (usually fitted to screen)
• 6no. M6x30mm Stainless Steel Fixing Screws + nuts & washers
• 1no. Length of Flat Rubber (enough to make 4no. gaskets)
• 1no. Length of ‘U’ Section Rubber Extrusion (rear side) & 1no. Length of ‘Y’ Section Rubber
Extrusion (front side)
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• 1no. Length of Sticky backed Sponge Rubber
• 2no. aluminium load spreading plates
Note: To fit the screen the builder will need the help of a second person. Before starting ensure that the
car is level, particularly transversely.
8.2.1 Mirror and aero screen brackets
Firstly fit the side mirror brackets and aeroscreen brackets to the windscreen using the screws provided. The
aero screen brackets fit with the spindles facing outwards and the longer spindles on the outside.
8.2.2 Windscreen positioning
Cover the scuttle area where the screen will fit with “low tack” masking tape to protect the paint work. Place
the screen in position on the scuttle and maneuver it so that it is parallel with the dash face and level (use a
spirit level), and positioned as per figure 14. A length of wood notched at each end giving the 42 1/2”
dimension is a help. This dimension is important if the hood is to fit correctly on the screen and for the wiper
spindles to be in the correct location.
8.2.3 Fixing windscreen
Now check that the screen base conforms satisfactorily with the scuttle face. Any gaps should be no more
than 1/8”. If the gaps are greater, mark the high spots with a chinagraph pencil, remove the screen to a carpet
covered bench and carefully file away the high spots. Re-offer to the car and repeat until the fit is
satisfactory. (Recent experience has been that no filing is necessary). Position the windscreen again and
when satisfied drill the 6 holes 6mm through the body for the mounting plate screws. Secure the 2 mounting
plates to the body with the M6 x 25mm domed headed countersunk stainless screws and mudguard washers
or alloy spreader plate & nyloc nuts.
8.2.4 Wiper spindle holes
The next operation is to drill the holes in the scuttle for the wiper spindles. It is necessary to drill two
11.5mm holes through the scuttle to the back of the dash using the holes in the screen as a guide. Do not try
to drill pilot holes and open the hole out gradually. Putting the full size drill through in one operation using
the screen holes as a guide minimises the tendency of the GRP to crack and spall. It also helps if the drill is
slightly blunt, then it has less tendency to “grab”. When you offer up the drill, have the second person
standing alongside the car to ensure you are drilling perpendicular to the screen. Where cracking and spalling
(hopefully minimally) has occurred and touch it in with a little body paint. Open out the holes on the inside
of the body a little with a file to enable the wheel boxes to fit well.
8.2.5 Screen seals
Remove the screen and fit the rubber sealing strip to both the front and rear faces and hold them temporarily
in place with small pieces of masking tape. Cut gaskets for the two mounting plates from the 1/16” rubber
sheet. Sticking them to the inside of the screen mounting plates with contact adhesive (Evostick or similar)
helps to keep them in place. Remove the masking tape from the scuttle.
8.2.6 Re-mounting screen
Apply sealant sparingly to the underside of the screen rubbers and a little washing up liquid to the inside of
the mounting plate gaskets. This allows them to slide easily without marking the paintwork. Remount the
screen and fix in position with the M6 stainless screws. Clean off any excess sealant with white spirit.
8.2.7 Wiper motor and drive spindles
Fit the wiper spindles complete the wheel boxes, rack and wiper motor as a unit, placing two of the four
7/16”UNF nuts on the spindles between the scuttle and the screen, and secure the wiper motor with the “U”
bracket on its mounting plate with 1/4”UNF x 11/2” bolts and nyloc nuts, the drive tube should run from
the motor towards the left above the short stay before turning back towards the spindle wheel boxes. Place
the other two 7/16”UNF nuts on the spindles after they have passed through the screen. Adjust the position
of the wheel boxes so that they are as far from the dash as possible (space for the ammeter and oil pressure
gauge is at a premium), and secure the spindles from the front of the screen with the two remaining nuts.
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8.2.8 Tenax and lift the dot studs
Replace the 8 2BA screws in the windscreen pillars with the long Tenax studs. Do this one at a time. Cut the
studs to the correct length, particularly the top ones so that they do not screw into the glass and potentially
crack the windscreen, and fit appropriate washers to stop the hexagon flats recessing into the counterbores. 4
of the Tenax studs are used to fit the wind wings, if being fitted check the fit adjusting the clips as necessary.
The other 4 Tenax studs are for fitting the side screens. Screw the two 2BA threaded single “lift the dot”
studs into the tapped holes provided in the windscreen flanges. These are used for the tonneau and the side
screens.
All these studs may already be fitted by Suffolk Sportscars.
8.2.9 Aero screens
Finally check the fit of the aero screens on their spindles, they should side on and off easily, if not try
loosening the spindle mounts before fitted the aero screens then re-tightening the screws. The locking lever
goes to the outside and allows you to adjust the angle.
8.2.10 Wiper arms and blades
The wiper arms are adjustable and can be made to suit various applications. Remove the protective tape off
the wiper blades before inserting them into the wiper arms with the hook facing away from the wiper spindle
mount and secure with the rubber pin, this can be cut shorter to improve looks.
On the back of the wiper arm is a measurement scale use this to get help both wipers the same length, hold
the thin part of the wiper arm in a bench vice with the wiper arm horizontal and bend the arm to angle the
wipers so they park against the bottom of the screen, they can also be pulled out to extend the wipers if
required. Regularly offer the wipers onto the spindles to check your progress and the sweep of the wipers,
once happy with one repeat with second wiper. If the blades are a little to long these can be trimmed with tin
snips or similar.
Do not fit these permanently until the wiper motor has been tested and you are sure it’s in the parked
position, Right hand drive cars are better parked to the right hand of the windscreen.
8.3 Remaining Body Fittings
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Front wing stays (2) - from chassis kit
• Starting handle eye with fixings
• GRP or aluminium front valance
• Headlamp bar including bolts & spacers
• Headlamp bar stays to body fixing eyelets (2)
• Rear lamp brackets (2) RH&LH
• Door latches, striker plates & chrome covers with fixings (2 of each)
• Steering column complete with steering lock & ignition switch
• Tank vent (dummy) with fixings
• Heater plus bulkhead flange with fixings and special hoses (if fitted)
• Heater on/off valve (if heater fitted)
• Rear hood supports (2)
• Luggage rack brackets which fit under the hood supports (2) (if luggage rack fitted)
• Throttle pedal (part of chassis kit)
• Throttle cable
• Choke cable
• Fuel cap, adaptor and link pipe
• Spare wheel bracket
• 1/4” stainless spring washers (4)
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• Rear reflectors - 52mm (2)
• Set of running board strakes and rubbers
• Hood spindles
Note: When filing the body to open out holes, use the file on the forward stroke only. This will avoid
spalling off pieces of the gel coat and paint at the edges of the hole. If this does happen before painting,
which is sometimes difficult to avoid, draw it to the attention of the body shop and ask them to make
good before painting.
8.3.1 Front valance and dummy starting handle eye
Place the front valance over the forward section of the body and underneath the radiator shell, protect the
valance from rubbing on the radiator shell with neoprene/rubber strip if required. Adjust the holes in the
GRP if necessary to accept the lamp bar and lamp bar stay eyelets. Drop the dummy starting handle eye
through the valance and secure with the supplied screws.
8.3.2 Fitting the lamp bar
Refer to figure 20 and start by fitting the two spacers that fit into the apertures in the wings, then prepare the
lamp bar by screwing in the lower mount studs using loctite or similar, fit onto these the first of two nuts
which work as adjustable spacers. Next roll the four ‘O’ rings over the feet of the lamp bar ready to be rolled
back later after fitting and using a small amount of glue bond the flat rubber washers to the four feet of the
lamp bar.
Offer the lamp bar onto the car, protect the area with masking tape if preferred (a second person is useful for
th
is to save any paint damage) pass the lower studs through the valance, body and chassis before locating the
fixings through the wings. Tighten these wing bolts into position making sure the lamp bar is not put under
any undue stress. Next by finger from behind the valance screw down the adjustable spacer nut to meet the
chassis before fitting the lock washer and nut from underneath. Make sure that the lamp bar fits
satisfactorily, if not talk to Suffolk Sportscars about adjusting the aluminium spacers as necessary.
8.3.3 Lamp bar stays
Fit the lamp bar stay lower mount through the body and chassis and secure from underneath eyelets to the
bars with the nuts provided, ensuring that the rubber washers are fitted between the mount and the body. If a
pair of spot lamps are being fitted, fit the stainless steel mounting plates between the eyelets and the valance
and align the spotlight mounting holes in the plates with those in the body & valance. Do not fully tighten
these until the lamp bar stays are fitted. Screw the eyes on the end of the lamp bar stays and adjust until the
correct length is achieved fit these to the car behind the lower mount and in front of the lamp bar, all these
mounts can then be tightened securely.
8.3.4 Wing stays
Important! The lamp bar must be fully fitted before fitting the wing stays as the lamp bar may slightly
change the position of the wings. Temporally fit the wing stays in place (the offset top plate extends
forwards) and scribe around the area the plate covers underneath the wing, gauge the size of the gap as this
needs filling. The best thing to fill the gap with is body filler as this will shape to the underside of the wing
and give the plate a flat surface to mount to.
Check that the wing does not need raising a little to close any gap between the wing and the lamp bar seals
but do not put any undue pressure on the wing.
Remove the wing stay and use some 80 grit paper to key the area that the wing stay covers and use masking
tape on the top of the wing to stop the filler coming through the holes and on top of the paint, cover the wing
stay top with masking tape before spreading a liberal coating of freshly mixed filler paste on to the upper
surface of the mounting plate and reassemble the stay so the filler squeezes on the underside of the wing and
conforms well with the GRP surface. Tighten up the 4 nuts & bolts and trim off any excess filler.
When the filler has set, from above the wing drill through the filler to the plate so the position in the plate
can be marked. The mount holes are 6.5 mm the centre wiring hole is 8 mm. The wing stay can now be
removed for cleaning and drilling the three holes, while the wing stay is off the car clean the filler pad which
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should be stuck to the underside of the wing and paint black to blend with the wing and protect from water.
The wing lamps can now be fitted referring to section 9 Wiring.
8.3.5 Upper Steering column
To fit the steering column start by making a simple template as per figure 21 (6mm plywood is sufficient).
Using the template located on the two warning lamp holes, position the column with the top mount against
the scuttle hoop flange and the lower mount against the sloping part of the bulkhead with the lower part of
the column passing through the centre of the hole provided.
While the upper column is in place offer up the lower column and universal joints to check all alignment
correct, the lower column may be too long and can be shortened later. Mark the centres of the 2 holes
required to bolt the upper steering column flange to the scuttle hoop flange and drill 2 holes 6.5 mm through
the sloping bulkhead into the lower flange in contact with it to mark the centres. Look at the space between
the column and the bulkhead, this will need packing like the wing stays to leave a flat mount area and to save
damaging the bulkhead when tightened. Mark the area where the column lower plate covers the bulkhead
before removing the column and drill out the 2 holes in the scuttle hoop flange 10mm, and the two holes in
the bulkhead flange 6.5 mm.
Protect the column with masking tape before spreading a coating of freshly mixed filler paste on to the upper
surface of the mounting plate and refit and bolt in the column so the filler squeezes on the underside of the
bulkhead and conforms well with the GRP surface.
Once the filler has dried remove the column once more to clean both column and bulkhead and paint
bulkhead filler to match the bulkhead. While the column is out install the ignition key, this can be done later
but it’s easier to do out of the car, the column can now be fitted permanently back in place.
8.3.6 Lower steering column and escutcheon
Before fitting the lower column the upper column needs a stainless cover escutcheon fitted, this should have
a rubber seal behind it cut to suit the upper steering column and can be fixed with two screws. The lower
column can now be fitted into place using the universal joints, make sure the upper column has the indicator
canceling lever to the right and the wheels are in the straight ahead position. Fit the column with the longest
spline to the steering rack, this is the spline that can be shortened if required due to the different types of
steering racks available.
8.3.7 Throttle pedal
Fit the throttle pedal to the lower sloping part of the offside bulkhead, see figure 9. The dimensions given are
a guide only and the pedal should be offered up and free travel checked before drilling two 6.5mm holes. Fit
it with the 1/4” UNF x 3/4” set screws & nyloc nuts. Using the pedal, mark the location of the hole needed to
accommodate the throttle cable. Drill the hole to the appropriate size for the cable gland supplied. Fit the
cable to the pedal and the engine and check the throttle operation.
8.3.8 Choke cable
The chok
e cable can be mounted in its own plate if preferred or in the mounting “Z” bracket that can be
supplied by Suffolk Sportscars for fitting and auxiliary switches or sockets. This switch panel is mounted
behind the wiper strap using the same bolts and sticks out under the wiper motor. Run the cable without any
sharp kinks through any hole in the bulkhead that suits the root needed to reach your chosen type of
carburetors and connect it to the linkage testing that it pulls in and out without jamming.
8.3.9 Door latches and strikers
Fit the door latches to the doors using fig 10 as a guide. Drill and tap the door M5 or 2BA. There is a steel
plate moulded into the GRP. Fix with slotted cheese head machine screws. Remount the doors and
fit the striker plates level with the door latches, drilling and tapping M5/6 into the doorposts and securing
with M5/6 x 25 polished stainless or chromed dome head countersunk screws. Adjust the door latches
and/or striker plates with packing as necessary to obtain satisfactory door closure. Remember that this is
temporally and will have to be readjusted following the fitting of trim panels to the doors.
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8.3.10 Rear lamp brackets
Test fit the rear lamp brackets to check the fit is level, remove the brackets and cut a rubber gasket to suit,
this is best cut undersize as they will squash out when fitted. Stamp the three mount holes and a central hole
for the rear lamp wiring. Pass the wiring through the gasket and along the rear lamp bracket tube before
mounting the rear lamp bracket in place with stainless screws and nyloc nuts.
8.3.11 Spare wheel bracket
Now drill the plate behind the body for the spare wheel fixing with three 11.5mm holes prior to fitting the
bracket. The holes in the body are predrilled 1” diameter. To ensure the holes are on the correct centres,
make up or obtain a spacer 1” dia and 1” long with a 4mm hole at the centre. Use this to drill a 4mm pilot
hole square to the plate at each location. Open the holes out in steps to 11.5mm. Remember that behind the
lower hole is the fuel tank. Assemble the remaining splined hub to the spare wheel bracket with 3 7/16”UNF
x 11/4” bolts and nyloc nuts, and fix the whole assembly to the chassis with 7/16”UNF x 2” bolts and nyloc
nuts.
8.3.12 Rear reflectors
Referring to figure 11, dismantle the rear reflectors before drilling and bolting into position, refit the reflector
lens and chrome bezel.
8.3.13 Dummy fuel tank vent and rear hood supports
Check the fit of the dummy fuel vent and rear hood support blocks, then make a rubber gasket to suit which
is best cut undersize, as they will squash out when fitted. If having the stainless steel luggage rack these
brackets will need fitting underneath the hood support brackets.
8.3.14 Fuel cap, adaptor and link pipe
Fit the fuel cap, adapter plate and the length of hose and clips connecting them to the fuel tank neck. Seal the
underside of the fuel cap to stop water getting into the boot area. Tighten the hose clips evenly.
8.3.15 Hood mount spindles
These need mounting with the longer thread outer most, make sure these are tight by locking two M8 nuts on
the outer end as once the trim is in there is no access to the inner nyloc nut.
8.3.16 Heater
Refer to figure 18 and position the heater inside the car using the three holes that are predrilled and
countersunk in the battery tray area. There are three holes in the plastic heater housing that will mate up with
these. Fix the screws into the housing top using the self-tapping screws provided, making sure the water
pipes are on the right side.
Feed the upper rubber heater hose through the predrilled hole in the bulkhead and the bulkhead foam and
cover plate and connect it to the carburetor manifold outlet on the back of the manifold. Feed the lower pipe
through the bulkhead, gasket and plate, this is connected to the rear face of the water pump via the 15mm
copper pipe, this can have an on/off tap fitted half way along and joins to the pump with a another short
length of hose.
8.3.17 Rubber wing beading
Supplied with the wing beading kit are four ‘P’ clips, start at the rear of the car and fit a ‘P’ clip on the inner
wing low down at the back to retain the end of the rubber beading. The dummy wing beading can then be
pulled around the bottom of the rear wing and can be attached with super glue, the best glue to use is “Super
Glue GEL” and is bought in tiny 3ml bottles, two bottles should be more then enough.
Note, Take your time and be very careful not to get glue on visible paintwork as it dries white and is usually
impossible to remove.
Use very sparingly about 6 – 8” at a time, then place and hold the beading into position for 15 seconds, Its
good sense to have a practise squeezing out the gel away from the car as all super glues vary in thickness and
delivery speed. When you’ve got to the front, run the beading around the corner under the bonnet and secure
with another ‘P’ clip at the bottom of the bulkhead. Repeat on the second side.
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8.3.18 Running board strakes
Refer to figure 12 to assist in fitting your running board strakes. The looks of the running board strakes are
much improved by gently curving the strakes to go with the body shape, both upwards as they go forward to
match the running board curve and inwards to match the body shape, they will need curving to various
degrees starting straight for the outer strake to curved to match the body line on the inner strake.
You can, if confident fit these with rivets in one go but protect the body from the ends of the strakes by
wrapping them in masking tape, the safer way is to fit them with M3 bolts and nuts before removing,
cleaning off tape and refitting them.
Start off by protecting the running boards with masking tape, then draw a straight line across the running
board 3 ¼ inches forward of the rear end of the door, this is the line for the rear of the strakes.
Outer strake. Prepare and fit the outer longest strake first, this is straight but as with all the strakes needs a
slight curve upwards to sit on the wing nicely, if they are not curved to follow the wing they will look kinked
at every mount position.
Gently warm the strake in your hands while gently bending the strake upwards to follow the curve in the
wing, once happy position on the wing lining up with the mark for the rear end of the strakes.
Starting at the rear mount hole, measure 25 mm from the outer edge of the body to the outer edge of the
strake, drill then nut and bolt at this hole then move forward to the next mount hole, continue until the outer
strake is fully fitted.
Note, take care when drilling through the strakes, use a drill stop or length of small bore hose to stop the drill
from hitting and damaging the strake.
Inner strake. Next fit the inner shortest strake, this needs curving upwards like the outer strake but also
needs curving inwards as it goes forward to match the body. Take your time warming and curving this shape
as the better it is, the better your finished car will look. Then like the outer strake start by aligning the rear
end and beside the rear mount hole measure 25 mm from the wing beading to the inner edge of the strake (32
mm if you haven’t fitted the wing beading yet) before drilling and bolting that position. The move forward to
the next hole measuring before drilling, the strake will flex a little as you go to help get the alignment
perfect, continue until the inner strake is fully fitted.
Centre strake. Next take the centre strake and as before curve this to suit the upwards curve of the wing as
well as giving it a curve inwards but not as much as the inner strake, this needs curving to fit central between
the inner and outer strakes, you could draw a centre guide line on the masking tape and keep offering up the
strake until happy with the shape. Then as before line up the rear end of the strake and measure the exact
centre between the outer strake and inner strake for the rear mount hole, drill and bolt this hole before
moving forward to the next hole, measuring the centre again before drilling and bolting. Carry on to the front
and you will have three strakes with the inner one matching the body curve and the centre one exactly
central.
Final two strakes. The final two strakes can be fitted in the same way as the centre strake using the strakes
either side of them to measure from to find the centres. This will get you five strakes of varying degrees of
curve to suit the body. Once happy remove the strakes clean off the body and refit with 3 mm pot rivets, take
care to wrap the end of the strake not being riveted with tape to protect the body as you move along, remove
the tape when your ready to rivet that end. When finished repeat with the second side.
Strake rubber inserts. When you have the strakes fully fitted you can cut and fit the rubber inserts, take
your length of rubber insert and cut a ‘V’ into the end of it, refer to figure 12, using super glue hold the ends
of the ‘V’ together this give the end of the rubber a nicer finish. Insert the rubber into the first strake from
this first ‘V’ and run it to the other end, cut the rubber 25 mm over length (this is to overcome and shrinkage
that may occur) before cutting and gluing the second ‘V’ this can then be fully inserted (you will be able to
get the extra length in), before moving on to the next strake.
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9 Wiring and Electrical Fittings
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Grab handle with fixings
•
Indicator stalk with eight way multi plug (supplied with loom)
•
Set of instruments with reproduction SS100 faces comprising:
o
Speedometer
o
Tachometer
o
Fuel gauge
o
Oil pressure gauge (mechanical or electrical type)
o
Water temperature gauge (capillary or electrical type)
o Ammeter
o 8x Led back lights and 1 x main beam warning lamp
• Voltage regulator
• Side/headlamp switch with fixings
• Dashboard Ignition key switch
• Steering column ignition key switch
• On/off pull switches (3)
• Push button starter switch
• Warning lights (1 x Red, 2 x Green)
• Fuel switch (dummy) with fixings
• Mounting “Z” bracket for Fog/Spot/Hazard lamp switch and Aux socket if fitting
• Headlamps complete with stone-guards and sealed beam units, (Type 40 or QK596)
• Dished headlamp spacers, (Concave-Type 40, Convex-QK596)
• Horns
• Hazard warning lamp switch kit, (Optional)
• Rear “owl eye” lights
• Four lengths of flexible chrome conduit
• Alternator
•
Front wing lamps for Flashers (side lamps optional)
•
Battery
•
Battery tray and clamp kit
9.1 Dashboard Fittings.
9.1.1 Grab handle
It is ideal to fit the grab handle as first job as this sits above the gauges and is tricky to fit once the electrics
are in place, refer to Appendix 2 figure 13 for approximate positions for all dashboard items. Protect the top
dashboard rail with masking tape, hold the grab handle in place with an equal overlap of the left and right
gauges on the left side of the dashboard. Mark the hole positions, remove the handle and drill to suit M5
stainless screws. Remove tape, clean dash and fit handle in place.
9.1.2 Fuel switch (dummy)
On the left side of the dashboard is space to fit the dummy fuel tank switch, this is to replicate the original
SS100. Protect the dashboard with masking tape, offer up the switch and mark the top and bottom mount
holes, remove the switch and drill holes to suit. The switch can now be fitted in place, although it has no
actual use on our cars some people have modified these to do other jobs like wiper speed or choke, this is up
to you to design and make.
9.1.3 Relay pack and Fuse box
The main dashboard section of the wiring loom should come through the floor behind the pedals, cable tie
the main loom and the relay pack to the right side of the steering column making sure that it will be clear of
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all pedal movement. The fuse box can also be positioned and screwed through the bulkhead.
9.1.4 Main earth
The loom then needs to go over the column and follow the large roll hoop behind the dashboard, locate the
eyelet with multiple black earth cables and attach this to the left hand bolt which holds the wiper motor “Z”
bracket, make sure this area is clean of powder coat to ensure a good quality earth connection. Pull the loom
to the left as far as this earth will allow and hold in place with cable ties, this will set the loom in the correct
place to reach all electrics.
9.1.2 Main power feed
To make the wiring easy to identify we will now go through all dashboard electrics starting from the relay
end. The first cable you will find is a thick Brown with a 30amp fuse, this is the main power feed into the
loom. You will need to remove the fuse holder to pass the cable through the bulkhead, there is an 11mm hole
provided for this in the side of the battery area, refit and mount the fuse holder to the bulkhead but don’t
connect to the battery until all final wiring is finished.
9.1.3 Stalk switch
Next you will find a thick Blue and nearby a group of eight wires these are for the stalk switch, take the stalk
switch and remove the square guide in the centre that would otherwise foul on the steering column. Hold the
stalk in place on the left side of the column to check the wires will all reach before cutting the connectors off
all but the Thick Blue cable and prepare to fit the spade connectors supplied. It is preferable to solder these
terminals on for better longer lasting connections.
Connect as below using the supplied connector block before fitting the switch on the column using the brass
plate and screws supplied, later on these screws may have to be released to adjust the stalk switch up or
down to clear the tachometer.
Stalk switch wires
Loom wires
Power
Blue fly lead
Blue fly lead
+12v Dash switched input
Blue/Red
Blue/Red or Blue/Orange
+12v output to dip beam headlamps
Blue/White or Blue/Yellow
Blue/White
+12v output to mainbeam headlamps
Purple or Red/Blue
Purple
+12v input for main beam flash
Green/Brown or Light Green/Red
Green/Brown
+12v Ignition indicator input
Green/Red
Green/Red
+12v output to left flashers
Green/White or Green/Yellow
Green/White
+12v output to right flashers
Black or Brown
Black
-12v input for horn switch
Purple/Black or Brown/Black
Purple/Black
-12v output to horn relay
9.1.4 Relay earths
Next cable in line is a pair of black cables in a single eyelet, connect this eyelet to chassis earth, this supplies
a -12v feed to the relay pack, clean back the powder coat to ensure a good quality earth connection.
Also in this area are two connections of Red/Whites and Red/Greens, these are standard wiring loom joins
and should be left alone.
9.1.5 Dashboard warning lamps
The next two pairs of cables are for dashboard warning lamps. The two 12.5mm holes in the dashboard are
for left and right flasher warnings, the main beam warning lamp should be in your speedometer, the low
fluid/hand brake warning lamp is optional and not used in most cases as most master cylinders don’t have the
connections and neither are legal requirements.
Left flasher warning lamp
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green/Red
+12v from stalk
2nd Terminal
Black
-12v chassis earth
Right flasher warning lamp
1st Terminal
Green/White
+12v from stalk
2nd Terminal
Black
-12v chassis earth
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Main beam warning lamp
Red or sometimes Black
Blue/White
+12v from stalk
Black
Join to either black above
-12v chassis earth
Optional Low fluid/Handbrake warning
lamp
1st Terminal
Green
+12v Ignition switched
2nd Terminal
2x Black/White
-12v from master cylinder
-12v from handbrake
Also in this area is a connection of green cables, these are standard wiring loom joins and should be left
alone.
9.1.6 Steering column ignition key
The next set of cables is for the steering column ignition key, this has two positions (the third sprung
connection is not used). Once wired as below the first position will power all ignition components except the
starter motor button which is energized in the second position, this is done so after starting your car in
position two the key can be returned to position one to isolate the starter button and stop the engine from
being cranked by accident while the engine is already running.
Ignition key wires
Loom wires
Power
Brown
Brown
+12v input from dash key
White/Pink (position 1)
2x White, 1x White/Green
+12v output for ignition
White (position 2)
Red/Yellow
+12v output to starter button
9.1.7 Hazard warning lamps
The next four wires are for an optional hazard-warning
switch, there are generally two types of connections
for these. The majority of these switches, like the one supplied by Suffolk Sportscars will use the top four
wires below but some will need to intercept the input to the stalk for the flashers. The switch can be
mounted in its own plate if supplied or in the mounting “Z” bracket that can be supplied by Suffolk
Sportscars for fitting and auxiliary switches or sockets. This switch panel is mounted behind the wiper strap
using the same bolts and sticks out under the wiper motor. If not using Hazard warning lamps please
insulate these wires.
Hazard warning switch
Loom wires
Power
Red through fuse and flasher
relay
Purple
+12v permanent supply via flasher relay
Black
Black
-12v chassis earth for relay/switch warning lamp
Blue
Green/Red
+12v to left flasher
Blue
Green/White
+12v to right flasher
Some switches need to intercept
Green brown
+12v flasher input to stalk
9.1.8 Heater
Next in the loom are wires for the heater blower motor. There are different types of heater available of which
some have single speed fan and some have twin speed fan. If you have single speed fan connect the
Green/Yellow +12v feed to the live input. If you have a twin speed fan you have three options:
1) Choose which speed suits you best and only connect that wire.
2) Use a two-speed dash switch, at present no new switches are available to match SS100 pull switches.
3) Wire up a two-position changeover switch behind the dashboard, wiring details below, this way the dash
pull switch will turn on the fan and the speed set by the extra hidden switch.
Heater wires
Loom wires
Power
Orange (slow fan speed)
Green/yellow
+12v switch feed to fan
Red (fast fan speed)
Black
Black
-12v chassis earth
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Changeover switch contact
Wire
Power
Common input
Green/Yellow
+12v dashboard switched feed
Output one
Orange (slow fan speed)
+12v switch feed 1 to fan
Output two
Red (fast fan speed)
+12v switch feed 2 to fan
9.1.9 Wiper motor
Along side the heater fan wires are the wiper motor wires these can be connected as follows:
Wiper motor wires
Loom Wires
Power
Blue/Green
Green
+12v Ignition feed
Red/Green (Slow speed)
Red/Green
-12v Dash switched feed 1
Yellow/Green (fast speed)
Blue/Green
-12v Dash switched feed 2
9.1.10 Main wiring earth
Next wires exiting the loom will be the thick multi black earth eyelet, which should be bolted to the left hand
bolt in the roll hoop that holds the wiper “Z” bracket, clean this area to make sure of a good earth connection.
This should already be connected from section 3 above to help position the wiring loom.
9.1.11 Electrical instruments and Automatic gearbox illumination
Along with the earth eyelet are six wires provided for electric gauges and Automatic gearbox illumination.
Some gauges may have + marked on the gauge others can be connected either way around.
Oil pressure gauge
Loom Wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green
+12v ignition from voltage regulator
2nd Terminal
White/Brown
-12v variable from engine switch
Water temperature gauge
1st Terminal
Green
+12v ignition from voltage regulator
2nd Terminal
Green/Blue
-12v variable from engine switch
Automatic gearbox illumination
Join these two wires together
through a fuse
Green
+12v ignition feed input
Grey/Red
+12v feed to illumination
9.1.12 Low charge warning
The remaining wires should follow the wiper drive track and turn back across the dashboard from left to
right, all the instruments and switches can be wired and fitted at the same time or you can fit all instruments
and switches and wire from behind. The first two cables are for low charge warning lamp these will need
female spades crimped or soldered on.
Low charge warning lamp
(Red)
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green
+12v ignition control feed
2nd Terminal
Brown/yellow
-12v from Alternator +12v when engine running
9.1.13 Heater fan switch
The next two are for the heater fan switch. The heater fan switch has screw terminals, as with all this type of
screw terminal connection the wires need baring back before inserting behind screw (the connection will be
stronger and longer lasting if you tin the wire ends with solder before inserting in switch).
Heater fan switch
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green
+12v ignition control feed
2nd Terminal
Green/Yellow
+12v feed to fan
9.1.14 Water temperature gauge
Next
fit the water temperature gauge, if using electric gauge extend wires to reach wires in section 12
above, if using Suffolk Sportscars supplied mechanical gauge the capillary tube needs to be fed through the
dashboard
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hole, across the roll hoop and through the bulkhead to the engine. Make sure the tube is not kinked or able to
jam in any moving parts, Fit into front underside of inlet manifold using the supplied adaptor and some
PTFE tape on all threads to help sealing.
Note: the adaptor is slightly different at each end and
needs to be fitted correctly, if unsure please
talk to Suffolk Sportscars before fitting as thread can be damaged by fitting incorrectly.
9.1.15 Instrument illumination
On the wiring loom in this area and all along the dashboard are pairs Red/White and Black cables for
instrument illumination, and supplied with the instrument kit are eight Led backlights, one for each of the
small instruments and two for each of the speedometer and tachometer.
Led backlights need to wired the correct way around to work but will not be damaged if incorrect, if you
have any that don’t work remove the Led from the holder and rotate 180 degrees before refitting and testing.
Illumination Led
Loom wires
Power
Red or sometimes Black
Red/White
+12v illumination feed from fuse box
Black
Black
-12v chassis earth
Also in this area of the dashboard are groups of Red/Whites, Blacks and Browns, these are standard wiring
loom joins and should be left alone.
9.1.16 Ammeter
The next gauge to fit is the ammeter, test fit this gauge first and check for clearance between the gauge
connections and the wiper wheel box. If the space is tight the gauge terminals can be very gently splayed
being careful as gauge body is plastic and/or you can shield the wiper wheel box with rubber or similar to
insulate it.
Ammeter
Loom wires
Power
Left terminal viewed from behind
Brown (single)
+12v live from main fuse
Right terminal viewed from
behind
Brown (pair, white tape)
+12v to dash electrics
9.1.17 Headlamp switch
Next is to wire up the headlamp switch, this should be labeled for ease of wiring. Some switches are three
position some are four, the later is the same just don’t use the forth position.
To fit the switch, start by removing the control lever (there is a small spring loaded spring in the side of the
lever) and then the three M4 nuts and washers holding the switch to the mount plate, the switch can then be
removed off the mount plate.
Remove the centre nut and the threaded bezel from the mount plate, pass the threaded bezel through the
dashboard before refitting the star washer (this is to lock the plate to the rear of the dashboard), mount plate
and nut followed by the switch. Fit the switch lever and adjust the M4 nuts each side of the switch to level
the switch and bring the lever close but not rubbing on the bezel.
Switch positions
Loom wires
Power
Terminal 5
Brown
+12v live from ammeter
Terminal 3
Red
+12v feed to side lamps fuses
Terminal 7
Blue
+12v feed to headlamp stalk switch
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9.1.18 Dashboard ignition key
The dashboard ignition key is next, this usually has two pairs of terminals on it, we need to use one of each.
The spare terminals could be used to power other accessories if required from either a Permanent or Ignition
supply. The Ignition key supplies the steering ignition key and acts as a master key switch.
The terminals can be connected either way around.
Switch
positions
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Brown
+12v live from ammeter
1st Terminal
+12v Can be used for permanent fed accessory, use fuse.
2nd Terminal
Brown (With Blue tape)
+12v feed to steering column key
2nd Terminal
+12v Can be used for key controlled accessory, use fuse.
9.1.19 Starter push button
The starter push button sits central at the bottom the dashboard and usually needs to be fitted before
connecting as the switch wont fit through the dashboard once it has been wired.
Starter push button
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Red/Yellow
+12v input from steering column key
2nd Terminal
White/Red
+12v output to starter motor
9.1.20 Fuel gauge
Next fit the Fuel gauge. This needs to be wired through the voltage regulator (the small metal box with two
pairs of terminals) as fluctuating voltage will cause an unstable fuel reading. The fuel gauge can be wired
either way around.
Voltage regulator
Loom wires
Power
Terminal B
Green, Female spade
+12v ignition feed
Terminal I
Green, Male spade
+12v to gauge
Regulator case
Black (this cable will be taped with wires
below)
-12v chassis earth
Fuel gauge
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Green
+12v from voltage regulator
2nd Terminal
Green/Black
-12v from fuel tank sender
9.1.21 Windscreen wiper switch
Under the fuel gauge is the windscreen wiper switch, like the heater fan switch only single speed switches
are available to match SS100 pull switches, options are:
1) Choose which speed suits you best and only connect that wire.
2) Use a two-speed dash switch, at present no new switches are available to match the SS100 pull
switches.
3) Wire up a two-position changeover switch behind the dashboard, wiring details below, this way the
dash pull switch will turn on the wipers and the speed set by the extra hidden switch.
Wiper switch wires
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Black
-12v Input
2nd Terminal
Red/Green (Slow)
-12v output to wiper motor
Or Blue/Green (fast)
Or to switch below
Changeover switch contact
Wire
Power
Common input
Output from above switch
-12v
Output one
Red/Green (slow)
-12v to wiper motor
Output two
Blue/Green (fast)
-12v to wiper motor
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9.1.22 Overdrive switch
The last standard dashboard switch is for overdrive.
Overdrive switch
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Yellow/Blue
+12v input from overdrive inhibit switch
2nd Terminal
Yellow/Green
+12v output to overdrive relay
9.1.23 Tachometer
There are two types of tachometer, induction type ne
ed the coil positive wire run through the tachometer, If
you have this type locate the White/Green at the steering ignition key and run this wire through the
tachometer. Others like the type supplied by Suffolk Sportscars only need a trigger wire from coil negative.
The below wiring is for a Suffolk Sportscars supplied gauge, please contact Suffolk Sportscars for help
wiring up other types of gauge.
Tachometer
Loom wires
Power
Green
Green
+12v input from ignition
Black
Black
-12v Chassis earth
Red/Blue
Yellow/Black
-12v Trigger from coil
Brown/Grey
Not used, insulate
Red/White
Not used, insulate
White/Black
Not used, insulate
9.1.24 Spot lamp feed
Also in this area is the spot lamp control feed, this can be wired through a standard on/off switch or through
a standard four pin relay so they come on and off with main beam.
Spot lamp switch
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Brown
+12v Live input
2nd Terminal
Blue/Pink
+12v output to spotlamp/s
Spot lamp relay
Loom wires
Power
85
Blue/White
+12v trigger from main beam feed at stalk or warning lamp
86
Black
-12v Chassis earth
87
Brown
+12v live input
30
Blue/Pink
+12v to spotlamp/s
9.1.25 Oil pressure gauge
If using an electric gauge extend wires to reach wires in section 12 above, if using Suffolk Sportscars
supplied
mechanical gauge the capillary tube needs to be fed through the dashboard hole, across the roll
hoop and through the bulkhead to the engine, make sure the tube is not kinked or able to jam in any moving
parts. Two adaptors will be supplied with the gauge, the larger steel adaptor needs to be fitted into the oil
supply in the engine block using a copper washer to seal, on the right side of the engine you will find a row
of six blanks just above where the block meets sump, any one of these blanks can be removed to fit the steel
adaptor.
Into the steel adaptor you need to fit the brass adaptor, this needs to be fitted with the flat end into the steel
adaptor, the other end of the brass adaptor has a raised centre to hold a small fibre washer which needs fitting
before connecting on the oil pressure pipe. The gauge end also needs a fibre washer fitting before connecting
the gauge.
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9.1.26 Speedometer
The speedometer is the last gauge to fit to the dashboard, this has the Main beam warning lamp position built
in which needs to be connected referring to part 8 above. Also with the gauge comes a trip reset cable which
needs to be connected to the gauge and a bracket made to hold the control knob in an accessible position to
yourself. The speedometer cable can also be connected, refer to section 5.4 part 17 for instructions on fitting
if necessary.
9.2 Front lamps, horns and alternator
There are two types of headlamps available from Suffolk Sportscars, these are the “Type 40” and QK596.
The
Type 40 are smaller stainless steel items whereas the QK596 are chrome on brass and are identical to
the original SS100 headlamps.
9.2.1 Headlamps Type 40 and horns
To install these headlamps start by removing the “R” pin from the sprung loaded clip at the bottom of the
lamp, the headlamp stone guard and lens cover will then release from the bottom and lift off the top of the
lamp. With this done you can access the screws retaining the headlamp unit, this can be then be removed
allowing access to the headlamp wiring later on.
With the headlamps dismantled they can now be fitted to the headlamp bar, remove the nut and lock washer
from the headlamp fixing leaving the special cupped spacer in place. Pass the threaded mount through the
headlamp bar and refit the lock washer and nut and finger tighten in place, as long as your car is sitting level
you can then align your headlamps with the aid of a spirit level, this can be done before refitting the
headlamp internals. There are three alignment checks you need to do
1 Make sure the two headlamps are straight with each other by running the level across both their faces.
2 Make sure the headlamps are upright by running the level flat on the front from the bottom centre to the
top center.
3 Make sure the headlamps are set to the correct beam height by running the level on the front at 90
degrees this will get the headlamp aim close if not exact for Mot checks.
4 Once happy with position tighten nut to hold headlamps secure.
With the headlamps fixed in place you can start on the wiring, take the two larger diameter lengths of
chrome conduit and if not in place install the special nuts with bonding agent. Next decide which wires you
need to bring into the headlamp, you will need the headlamp dip/main beam, earth, horn and side lamp wires
(some headlamps don’t have positions for side lamps, on these cars the side lamps have to be fitted in special
piggy back lamp holders in with the flashers), the chosen wiring can then be passed up the conduit ready to
go into the headlamp.
Before passing the wires through the bottom of the headlamp choose if you want to drill a small hole in the
conduit to pass through the horn cable or you can drill a hole in the bottom of the headlamp to take a
grommet and pass the horn cable through, Then the cables can be threaded into the headlamp and connected
as below before refitting the headlamp unit, lens and stone guard.
The horns can also be fitted at this stage and can be connected up at the horn or cables fitted on the horn
extending into the headlamp where connections can be made.
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Headlamp bulb, looking toward terminals
Loom wires
Power
Left terminal
Black
-12v Chassis earth
Top terminal
Blue/Red or Blue/Orange
+12v Dipped beam from stalk
Right terminal
Blue/White
+12v Main beam from stalk
Side lamp
Red
Red/White – right or
Red/Black - left
+12v Side lamp feed from fuse box
Black
Connect with headlamp earth
-12v Chassis earth
Horn
1st terminal
Purple/Yellow
+12v feed from relay
2nd terminal
Connect with headlamp earth
or direct to headlamp bar
-12v Chassis earth
9.2.2 Headlamps QK596 and horns
To install these headlamps start by loosening and lowering the thumb screw on the bottom of the headlamp,
the headlamp stone guard and lens cover will then release from the bottom and lift off the top of the lamp.
With this done you can access the screws retaining the headlamp unit, this can be then be removed allowing
access to the headlamp wiring later on. Now remove the nut, lock washer and domed spacer from the
headlamp mount.
Next decide which wires you need to bring into the headlamp, you will need the headlamp dip/main beam,
earth, horn and side lamp wires (some headlamps don’t have positions for side lamps, on these cars the side
lamps have to be fitted in special piggy back lamp holders in with the flashers), the chosen wiring can then
be passed up the conduit ready to go into the headlamp.
Pass these cables through the top of three holes in the lamp bar and through the bottom hole pass two cables
to extend the horn cables up into the headlamp. With these cables in place pass the wires through the
headlamp spacer and into the headlamp making sure they don’t get jammed or nipped anywhere, this is tight
as the cables need to go around 90degrees inside the spacer.
With the wires in the headlamps they can now be fitted to the headlamp bar, pass the threaded mount through
the domed spacer and headlamp bar and refit the lock washer and nut and finger tighten in place, as long as
your car is sitting level you can then align your headlamps with the aid of a spirit level, this can be done
before refitting the headlamp internals. There are three alignment checks you need to do:
1 Make sure the two headlamps are straight with each other by running the level across both their
faces.
2 Make sure the headlamps are upright by running the level flat on the front from the bottom centre to
the top center.
3 Make sure the headlamps are set to the correct beam height by running the level on the front at 90
degrees this will get the headlamp aim close if not exact for Mot checks.
4 Once happy with position tighten nut to hold headlamps secure.
The horns can also now be fitted at this stage and can be connected up at the horn and the wires in the
headlamp can be connected up as described above if they have standard H4 bulbs.
If they have special ‘manual focus’ bulbs which are identifiable by being held in with a screw clamp these
can have the bulb fitted either way around so connect them up before testing to see if Main and dipped beam
are in the correct positions.
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Headlamp bulb
Loom wires
Power
Body earth
Black
-12v Chassis earth
1st wire, may need swapping with below
Blue/Red or Blue/Orange
+12v Dipped beam from stalk
2nd wire, may need swapping with above
Blue/White
+12v Main beam from stalk
Side lamp
Red
Red/White – right or
Red/Black - left
+12v Side lamp feed from fuse box
Black
Connect with headlamp earth
-12v Chassis earth
Horn
1st terminal
Purple/Yellow
+12v feed from relay
2nd terminal
Connect with headlamp earth
or direct to headlamp bar
-12v Chassis earth
9.2.3 Spot lamps
There is a vast choice of spot lamps available, the main choice is to either have one spot lamp hanging from
the lamp bar or a pair of spot lamps mounted to the valance using stainless steel teardrop shaped plates with
one end mounted under the headlamp bar stays to reinforce the valance as some spot lamps can be quite
heavy. The wiring is the same for all types of spot lamps but if only having one, use left or right hand loom
wire and remember insulate the side not used.
Spot lamp
Loom wires
Power
Live wire or centre terminal
Blue/Pink L & R of car
Erath wire or bulb casing
Run cable to chassis earth
9.2.4 Flasher lamps
Your wing stays should already be fitted but if not don’t fit them before fitting the headlamp bar. In the wing
top should be three holes drilled in the grp, the outer holes are for mounting the wing lamp the centre hole is
for the wiring. Use these holes as guides to drill the wing stay bracket, you can drill it place or mark the wing
stay before removing it to drill, the mount holes should be 6mm and the centre wiring hole 8mm.
Next you before you mount your lamp remove the small screw holding the lamp internals in place, (this can
be discarded as it sits on the wing and holds the lamp off the wing). Remove the lens screw from the top of
the lamp then remove the bulb holder by gently pulling it out of its casing.
Check the bulb is correctly inserted, (It has staggered pins so should only fit one way but can be jammed in
incorrectly) before testing with a 12v power source as to which of the wires operates the brightest (21watt)
filament using the case as earth. The other (5 watt) wire can be removed and insulated to remove confusion
later on. On UK cars the bulb should be painted with special orange bulb paint, some other countries allow
white flashers. The bulb and holder can now be refitted into the lamp casing and bolted to the wing with the
wire passing through the wing to the underside.
With these in place run the flasher wire under the wing and up along the wing stay holding it in place with
ties or ‘P’ clips, You will need to run a separate earth wire with it from the main chassis as the wing stay is
powder coated it will not give a clean earth to the lamp, at the lamp end this can be connected with an eyelet
to the lamp mounting bolt.
Flasher lamp
Loom wires
Power
Red or Green
Brightest filament
Green/White, Right
Green/Red, Left
+12v From stalk switch
Mounting bolt
-12v Chassis earth
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9.2.5 Side lamps combined with flasher lamps.
These can be fitted in the same way as the above lamps apart from that they have two separate bulbs inside,
the larger bulb is 21w and should be orange for the flasher, the smaller bulb is 5w, clear and is for the side
lamp. It will have two live cables and one or two earth cables coming from the lamp, like before use a 12v
power source to find which wire operates which brightness/colour of bulb.
Flasher/side lamp
Loom wires
Power
Red 21watt
Green/White, Right
Green/Red, Left
+12v From stalk switch
Red 5 watt
Red/White, Right
Red/Black, Left
+12v From fuse box
Black/s
-12v Chassis earth
9.2.6 Alternator
With the body in place the alternator can now be fitted, the lower mount attaches through the front cover in
the same place as the timing pointer, the pointer has slotted holes so mark the position of this before
removing the bolts (you may need longer bolts for fitting this).
The alternator must be inserted into the drive belt before bolting to the bracket as the belts must be kept short
to keep the most distance possible between the alternator and the bonnet, with the belt and alternator in
position slide through the long 5/16 bolt from rear to front and with the alternator held rearmost check for
belt alignment, if needed fit a spacer between the alternator and bracket to bring it forward and aid
alignment, the rear position has a sliding spacer to take up any slack.
Before fully tightening the bottom bolt assemble and fit the top adjuster to the alternator and adjust the belt
to give a maximum of 5mm deflection on the longest run, all bolts can now be tightened, the wiring loom has
a plug ready fitted for the alternator, details below.
Alternator
Loom wires
Power
Large terminal 1
Thick brown
+12v battery charge
Large terminal 2
Not used
Small terminal
Brown/Yellow
+12v running, -12v not running feed to low charge warning
lamp
Rear lamps and fuel sender.
9.2.7 Rear lamps
The rear lamp brackets should
already be fitted with the rear lamp wires coming out of the centre tubes.
Remove the rear lamp cover and the four rear retaining bolts to remove the lamp holders, take the conduit
and pass it through the lamp holder and use cable or wire ties to hold the tube from coming free.
If not already been done by Suffolk Sportscars, glue some insulating material (e.g. rubber, cloth tape) to
the inside top of the lamp case as there is very little room inside these lamps the wires are very close to
the outside case.
Mount the lamp on the lamp bracket, the screws will go through the bracket and lamp casing and into the
lamp mounting bracket. Tape the ends of the wires together to aid pushing them up the conduit and into the
rear lamp, secure the conduit with a suitable size grommet or rubber wrapped around the conduit.
The lamps can be mounted either way around but generally side / marker lamps are best on the outside.
As with front lamps use a 12v power source to find which filament/terminal operates side lamp (5watt) and
which is the brake lamp (21watt).
The terminals inside the lamp are traditional old style connectors, remove the brass insert, slide over the
cable and bare back approx 5mm of wire, bend this over the brass insert before refitting.
A wiring diagram to help with wiring below can be found in Appendix 2 figure 24.
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Right hand lamp.
Brake/side lamp
Loom wires
Power
21 watt terminal
Green/Purple
+12v from brake lamp switch
5 Watt terminal
Red/White, & link to side lamp below
+12v from fuse box
Side (number plate) lamp
Either terminal
Link to Red/White above
+12v from fuse box
Either terminal
Black & link to flasher lamp below
Chassis earth
Flasher lamp
Either terminal
Green/White
+12v from stalk switch
Either terminal
Link to Black above also add extra second
wire and connect to lamp body, use eyelet
behind lamp mount screw. This supplies
earth to lamp body for Brake/Side lamp.
Chassis earth
Left hand rear lamp.
Brake/side lamp
Loom wires
Power
21 watt terminal
Green/Purple
+12v from brake lamp switch
5 Watt terminal
Red/Black, & link to side lamp below
+12v from fuse box
Side (number plate) lamp
Either terminal
Link to Red/Black above
+12v from fuse box
Either terminal
Black & link to flasher lamp below
Chassis earth
Flasher lamp
Either terminal
Green/red
+12v from stalk switch
Either terminal
Link to Black above also add extra second
wire and connect to lamp body, use eyelet
behind lamp mount screw. This supplies
earth to lamp body for Brake/Side lamp.
Chassis earth
9.2.8 Fuel gauge sender
The fuel gauge sender is in the left side of the tank, it sends a variable resistance earth to the fuel gauge. It
can be connected either way round.
Fuel sender
Loom wires
Power
1st Terminal
Black
-12v earth to sender
2nd Terminal
Green/Black
Variable -12v to gauge
9.2.9 Earth feed
In the area above the fuel sender is a multi earth eyelet this needs to be connected to chassis earth and can be
bolted into the chassis at the body mounting bolt, clean this area to provide a good earth and protect with
grease or paint after fitting.
9.2.10 Battery
The last job is to fit the battery tray and battery, If you have a Grp tray lay this on a piece of rubber on the
bulkhead, sit the battery on top then fit the clamps by drilling a 5mm hole in the bulkhead just above the
horizontal to stop water getting in, pass the clamps through from inside before clamping down the battery
and sealing the holes from the inside (the clamps may need shortening to do this).
If you have an alloy tray this can be bolted down through the bulkhead with the bolts either side of the
heater, the battery can then be mounted with the clamps attaching to the battery tray instead of the bulkhead.
When ready to connect bolt on the positive battery terminal first (Red cable), then switch over the bonnet to
access the negative terminal, If when you offer the negative terminal to the battery there is a big spark
disconnect and check everything is switched off, if everything is switched off you may have a direct short
which needs tracing. If all no sparks detected carry on to testing section below.
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9.2.11 Testing
All electrics should now work and can be tested as below:
• Side, headlamp dip/main/flash and panel lights
• Spot lamp/s (if fitted)
• Brake lights*
• Ignition warning light*
• Main beam warning light
• Fuel pump*
• Indicators and warning lights*
• Handbrake on and low brake fluid warning light* (if fitted)
• Horn
• Hazard warning circuit (if fitted)
• Ammeter polarity, switch on headlamps gauge will go to negative, reverse if incorrect (disconnect
battery first)
• Reverse light when reverse engaged*
• Overdrive* with ignition on in forth gear you should hear a relay behind dash and the solenoid
clicking
• Fog lamp and warning light (only operates on when dipped headlights on)
• Wiper motor*
• Heater fan*
• Fuel gauge* (if no fuel in tank this can be tested by joining Black and Green/Black at the tank
sender)
• Starter button*
• Cooling fan, by disconnecting and bypassing the control switch*
• Check headlamp alignment and adjust if necessary, refer to fig 16 for positions
•
* These items will only work with both ignition keys switched on.
9.2.12 Wiper blade fitting
Operate the wiper motor and stop it when the spindles are at their extreme anticlockwise position when
viewed in the front of the screen. Fit the wiper arms and blades in the park position. Adjust until satisfactory
sweep and park is obtained. It may be necessary to shorten the blades. This can be done easily with a small
hacksaw and file. Tighten fully to the spindles taking care not to over tighten.
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10 Interior Trimming
Section to follow.
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11 Trimming
Section to follow.
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12 Final Body Fittings
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Steering wheel & boss.
• Number plates
• Chassis plate
• GB plate
• Luggage rack (optional)
• Seat belts including all brackets and fastenings.
12.1 Steering wheel and boss
The steering wheel is best left off or removable for trimming, to fit the steering wheel start by checking the
wheels are set straight ahead and the indicator canceling lever is pointing to the right, between the stalk lever
return catches. Slide the boss onto the steering column and insert the locking key steel, offer the steering
wheel to the boss with the spokes in an X position and the Mota lita inscription (if it has one on the front)
pointing top left.
Fit the steering wheel with the supplied screws, lock washers and nuts, to secure the boss check the steering
wheel is a comfortable distance from the dashboard before tightening the allen pinch bolt, then make a
suitable size spacer too fit in the top of the steering column before fitting the main retaining bolt. The
steering wheel centre can then be fitted.
If after test-driving the wheel seams out of position disconnect the top universal joint under the bonnet and
adjust here.
12.2 Front number plate
The front number plate will need drilling and mounting through the front valance, for best position try and
get the top of the number plate just under the top of the valance. If fitting plastic plates drill through them
against a piece of wood as they shatter very easily, If fitting metal plates protect from scratching or slipping
with drill by using masking tape.
12.3 Rear number plate and GB plate
The rear number plate and GB plates will need two holes drilled on the centre line, mark the position that
suits best for your number plate digits, try and use a position that will work on your GB plate as well before
offering them up to the car to make sure they are not too low so as to miss the plate mount. When happy drill
both holes in the number/GB plates and offer back up to the car, get the top of the plates central and mark
and drill the top hole in the number plate bracket. The top position can then be bolted on before making sure
the plate is square to the body then mark and drill this mount hole which can then be bolted in place.
12.4 Luggage rack
If fitting a luggage rack, assemble it and fix to the brackets on the rear of the hood stays and on the
lower rear chassis crossmember using the M8 x 25mm stainless steel bolts and stainless nyloc nuts.
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12.5 Seat belts
The seat belts can now be fitted using the brackets and fastenings supplied, You will find a long tube adaptor
for the lower mount and a top hat adaptor for the upper mount, the upper mount needs to be able to swivel so
if its too tight remove and add a spacer washer behind the spacer. The seat belt retainer catches are best fitted
with a spacer through the floorboard against the chassis, this will stop the seat belts coming loose as the
floorboard settles.
12.6 Chassis plate
The chassis plate is usually mounted on the left hand bulkhead under the bonnet using four 3 mm pot rivets,
check details are correct before riveting.
13 Ignition Setting, Carburetion, Testing Running and Tuning
Safety point: Before proceeding check that there is no spilled fuel which could be ignited, and that the fuel
pump is disconnected until ready to start, This can be done by removing the fuse in the fuel pump relay.
Ignition key must be switched off unless otherwise stated.
13.1 Ignition Settings
13.1.1 Oils and water
Make sure the engine, gearbox and rear axle have oil to the appropriate level and the radiator is filled with
water and antifreeze, keep an eye on the water level through the first time the engine runs as the level can
drop as the air comes out of the engine. See appendix 6.
13.1.2 Static timing
If fitted remove all spark plugs and disconnect the high tension lead from the coil for safety, Turn the engine
over by turning the crankshaft or pushing with the car in forth gear until you can feel pressure building up
with your thumb over spark plug hole number one (rearmost plug) this will be the compression stroke.
Continue turning until the crankshaft pulley marks line up with the pointer on the timing chain cover at the
correct point BTDC for you engine (e.g. for 4.2 engine static timing is 8degrees Before Top Dead Centre).
!
13.1.2 Setting contact breaker points
Ignore if you have electronic ignition. Turn the crankshaft or distributor until one of the distributor camshaft
high points is central on the heel of the points (the easiest way to do this is to engage fourth gear and rock the
car forwards or backwards). Once in this position you can slacken the screw that holds the points before
adjusting the gap and measuring with some feeler gauges, the gap should be 0.014 to 0.016 inch.
13.1.3 Setting distributor
Slacken the distributor clamp bolt and connect a test lamp from chassis earth to the negative contact on the
coil. Switch on your cars ignition and turn your distributor clockwise until the light comes on, this tells us
that your contact breaker points have just opened. You can now tighten the clamp bolt and fit your rotor arm
and distributor cap. Switch the ignition off.
13.1.4 Spark plugs and HT leads
You can now refit your spark plugs, check they are gapped correctly for your plug and engine type. You can
also refit your plug (HT) leads, the firing order on the XK engines are 1 5 3 6 2 4, number one plug is at the
rear of the engine and should be connected to the distributor cap in the position that the rotor arm is currently
pointing to, its normally at about 10 o’clock position. The distributor turns anti clockwise so number 5 is
next to number 1 going anti clockwise and so on.
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13.2 Carburetion
13.2.1 Carburettor base settings
Remove the carburettor dashpots by first removing the screw top dampers (lay these down somewhere clean)
then remove the four screws around the dashpots and lift them away along with the dashpot springs below.
Then you can lift out the piston and needle and look at the height of the jet in the bottom of the carburettor, a
good base setting is to have these 1/16-inch under the height of the jet mount. Refer to Haynes manual or
similar for adjusting the jet position as there are too many types to go into detail here. Refit the needle and
piston taking care not to bend the needle and fill the centre tube to 5mm from the top with a thin engine oil,
the springs and dashpots and dampers can now be refitted.
13.2.2 Starting
Reconnect the coil HT ‘King’ lead, with these base settings your car should now start. Refit the fuel pump
fuse and turn the ignition on, wait for the fuel pump to slow a little indicator fuel has reach the carburettor
float chambers, Check for any leaks and sort now before attempting to start your car. Check your in neutral,
pull out the choke and press the starter button your car should start if not check the above settings again and
spark plug order.
13.2.3 Warm up
Let the engine warm up to running temperature while keeping a close eye on the water system, the water will
most likely drop as air comes out to the radiator, also check the pipes all become warm as the thermostat
opens to show that there is no air lock.
13.2.4 Dwell angle
The best way to check the contact breaker points gap is with dwell angle, this is the length of time that the
points are open, Dwell angle can be tested by many types of electrical meter and on home gas analysers
which are well worth having and easily obtainable for around £100. The dwell angle should read 35° ± 3, If
the dwell angle is too large then switch off the engine before removing the distributor cap and increase the
points gap if it’s too small reduce the points gap. The dwell angle on electronic ignition systems is not
adjustable so bypass this section.
13.2.5 Stroboscopic timing
After checking and adjust dwell angle the timing must be set with a stroboscopic timing light, this will
ensure the spark arrives at exactly the right time and must be done before any adjustment to the carburettors.
With the engine switched off highlight the engine timing pointer on the timing chain case and the correct
timing mark on the front pulley, the number marks on the pulley may not go far enough if so measure the 10°
mark and double the gap for 20°.
Connect up your timing light following the manufacturer’s instructions, restart your engine and disconnect
your vacuum advance tube to the distributor. With a helper or by locking the throttle cable out hold the
engines revs at the required amount to set your timing (4.2 XK engine is 20° @ 1800rpm with the vacuum
pipe disconnected) and use the timing light to illuminate the timing marks, if not aligning then loosen the
distributor clamp bolt and turn the distributor either way until the marks line up with the timing light.
Once happy the timing is correct tighten the distributor clamp bolt and refit the vacuum advance hose.
13.2.6 Carburettors
Once happy with the distributor timing you can move on to carburettor tuning, Please refer to a manual for
your carbs for accurate information on your carburettors mixture screws etc or if you have HD8 which have
air bleed screws instead of slow running screws. With the engine at running temperature, slacken the pinch
bolts on the throttle linkage to separate the carburettors then look into the carburettor mouth and adjust the
slow running (tick over) adjustment screws so that both carburettors are open the same amount and the tick
over is at the correct (the gap between the bottom of the piston and carburettor should be the same). Once
both carburettors are open the same amount and the tick over is correct, switch off the engine and tighten the
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carburettor linkage making sure if there is any slack you take this up as both carburettors need to open at
exactly the same time.
13.2.7 Setting mixtures
The mixtures are best set on a gas analyser but you can set them close by following these instructions. If
possible make sure you have the correct needles for your set up. Then with the car at running temperature
and the air filters removed, lift the carburettor piston with the piston-lifting pin or by a flat blade screw driver
(don’t use you finger as your hand will obstruct air flow). If the engine revs slow that means the engine is
running too lean on that carburetor, if it speeds up its running too rich, if it speeds up a little then settles
again its running about right.
!
13.2.8 Engine checks
Once happy with the engines running check the following:
• The ignition light has extinguished.
• The tachometer reading looks correct.
• The water temperature gauge looks correct.
• The electric fan is cutting in and out at the correct temperature.
• Check for exhaust leaks.
• After cooling, check oil and water levels.
• After the first run check and top up the oil levels particularly the gearbox as the overdrive will only
take in oil
when the car is driven.
IMPORTANT : ENSURE THAT THE ENGINE IS FULLY UP TO TEMPERATURE AND
RUNNING SATISFACTORILY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DRIVE THE CAR
13.3 Test Running and Tuning
!
13.3.1 Running In and Service Instructions
Your engine has been test run and checked before dispatch.
On installation the engine should be filled with quality 20/50 engine oil and fitted with new filter (some
engines are supplied with filter ready fitted). Check condition of coolant system.
Fill with correct ratio of quality antifreeze (containing corrosion inhibitor) and fresh clean water. Check
condition of all ancillary components and set ignition timing to factory specification.
13.3.2 Driving and Service
For the first 500 miles to not exceed 3000 RPM. Do not labour engine and avoid constant speed
(i.e. Motorways). Vary engine speed as much as possible (Up to 3000 RPM).
500 MILES
Drain engine oil (with oil hot). Fit new filter. Refill with quality mineral 20/50 oil or 15/40 mineral oil.
With engine cold re-torque cylinder head nuts to 60 ft lbs (82 Newton metres). Check all hose clips,
ancillary securing bolts etc. Check ignition timing and carb mixture (CO/HC).
500 - 1000 MILES
Gradually increase maximum revs from 3000 to 4500 rpm for short bursts
1000 - 1500 MILES
Build up to maximum revs for your model. Do not use sustained high revs for long periods.
Carry out a full nut & bolt tightness check on the engine, chassis & body components
1500 MILES
Repeat service instructions as per 500 miles.
We strongly advise that valve clearances are checked by competent mechanic.
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Your running in period is now complete and your service intervals are as per the factory instruction for your
model.
Note: When tightening the nuts for the polished cam covers, do not overtighten, use 4 ft-lb torque max.
Remember Jaguar engines suffer on short journeys. Most engine wear and damage occurs within the first 10
miles before the oil & components are at full working temperature. Keep regular checks on cooling system
condition, ignition, timing and carb mixture.
14 Road Preparation
IMPORTANT:
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT ALL FLUIDS HAVE BEEN ADDED AND ARE AT THEIR CORRECT
LEVELS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DRIVE THE CAR. THESE INCLUDE BRAKE & CLUTCH
FLUID, ENGINE OIL, GEARBOX OIL, FINAL DRIVE OIL, ENGINE COOLANT WITH
APPROPRIATE ANTI FREEZE/INHIBITOR
14.1 Wheel Alignment
Wheel alignment should be checked and set on all four wheels by a garage with the necessary equipment to
do so. The rear wheels should be set parallel and the front wheels to 1/16” toe in, on professional equipment
the measurement is between 12 and 24 minutes
14.2 Suspension Setting
The front and rear spring supports can be set to give a ride height to suit the owner’s preference. A good
starting point is to set them as per figure 23.
All six shock absorbers can be adjusted for damping rate and the settings are a matter of preference for the
driver regarding the balance between road holding and ride quality. A good start point is 5 clicks up from the
softest setting (fully anti-clockwise). Always adjust them equally in axle sets.
14.3 Headlamp Alignment
If not already done headlamps can be aligned approximately as per figure 16. However for accurate
alignment professional garage facilities is recommended.
14.4 Brakes - Bedding In
Before submitting the car for testing, the brakes should be bedded in the usual manner by driving the car and
using the brakes. This process can be accelerated by driving the slowly with the brakes lightly applied.
14.5 Rolling Road Tuning
While carburetor settings and ignition timing can be set with a good approximation with home equipment, it
is well worth having the car set up professionally with rolling road and exhaust gas analysis equipment. The
rolling road will be capable of testing the car under full power conditions and adjusting or changing the
carburetor needles to better suit the engine. This is best done after the car is run in, please be sure to advise
rolling road that this is a new built engine.
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14.6 Tyre Pressures & Greasing Points
Check tyre pressure before driving and at regular intervals.
Greasing all nipples should be done at regular servicing to ensure longevity of parts.
See appendix 4 for details.
14.7 Speedometer Calibration
If your speedometer does not seams to be reading correct it is easy to check this by driving using a satellite
navigation system, always use a passenger to help with this for safety. If your speedometer is incorrect the
best coarse of action is to get it recalibrated to suit your individual car and gearbox/differential. See
Appendix 6 for instructions on doing this.
14.8 Servicing.
Your car will need regular servicing, please refer to section 13 for service intervals. There is a Suffolk
Sportscars
service sheet in this manual to help guide you to what needs doing, see appendix 5.
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Appendix 1: Electrical Systems
Wiring Loom Positions Key (Refer to Appendix 2 Fig 31)
A.Gearbox section
Green
Yellow/Blue
Overdrive inhibitor switch
Ignition supply
Switched feed out
Grey/red
Automatic gear selector switch
Ignition supply
Green
Green/brown
Reversing lamp switch
Ignition supply
Switched feed out
Yellow
Overdrive
Relay controlled feed
Black/White
Handbrake
Supply’s earth to warning lamp
B. Rear section
White/purple
Fuel pump feed
Relay controlled supply
Multi black
Eyelet – earth to chassis
Supply’s earth to rear lamps
Black
Green/black
Fuel sender
Earth feed
Feed to gauge
Black
Red/brown
Rear fog lamp
Earth feed
Switched live feed
Black
Green/purple
Red/white
Green/white
Right hand rear lamp
Earth feed
Stop lamp feed
Side light feed
Indicator lamp feed
Black
Green/brown
Reversing lamp
Earth feed
Switched live feed
Black
Green/purple
Red/black
Green/red
Left hand rear lamp
Earth feed
Stop lamp feed
Side light feed
Indicator lamp feed
C. Under bonnet section
Black eyelet
Black
Black/white
Low brake fluid level
Connect to chassis
} Connect to master
} cylinder cap
Green
Green/purple
Stop lamp switch
Ignition feed
Switched feed out
White/red
Starter solenoid
Feed from battery
Green
Spare switched ignition feed
Ignition live
White/green
Yellow/black
Black loop
Coil
Coil +
Coil –
Coil – to points in distributor
White/brown
Electric oil pressure gauge
Optional
Green/blue
Electric water temperature gauge
Optional
Thick brown
Brown/yellow
Alternator plug
Charging feed
Feed to warning lamp
D. Dash section
Brown (rear relays)
Main live supply
Connect to battery +
Blue
Flying lead to indicator stalk
Headlamp feed
Black eyelets (2)
Earth for relay box
Connect to chassis
Blue/red
Blue/white
Green/brown
Green/white
Green/red
Purple
Purple/black
Black
Indicator stalk
Dipped beam feed
Main beam feed
Indicator feed
Right indicator
Left indicator
Headlight flash feed
Horn (relay)
Earth for horn relay
Green
Black/white (2)
Low brake fluid & handbrake warning lamp
Ignition feed
Switched earth feed
Blue/white
Main beam warning lamp
Switched live feed
Green/white
Black
Right indicator warning lamp
Switched live feed
Earth feed
Green/red
Black
Left indicator warning lamp
Switched live feed
Earth feed
Thick brown (2)
White (2)+White/green
Red/yellow
Steering lock ignition key
Live feed – connect to brown
Ignition – connect to pink
Starter – connect to white
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D.
Dash section (continued)
Black
Purple
Green/white
Green/red
Haz
ard lamp switch, MOT requirement if donor car
fitted with one otherwise optional
Earth feed
Live feed, connect to flasher
Fight indicator feed
Left indicator feed
Black
Green/yellow
Heater fan
Earth feed
Switched live feed
Black
Red/green
Blue/green
Wip
er motor
Earth feed
Slow speed feed
Fast speed feed
Black – multi eyelet
Main harness earth
Bolt to chassis hoop
Green
Grey/red
Automatic gearbox selector lamp
Fit fuse between wires to
Activate
Green
White/brown
Electric oil pressure gauge (optional)
Ignition live feed
Sender feed
Green
Green/blue
Electric water temperature gauge (optional)
Ignition live feed
Sender feed
Green
Brown/yellow
Ignition low charge warning lamp
Ignition live feed
Switch feed
Green
Green/yellow
Heater fan switch
Ignition live feed
Switch feed out
Black (8)
Red/white (8)
Gauge illumination
Earth
To gauge illumination lamps
Black
Red/white
Multi wires of each colour joined together
As junction for above, leave unconnected
Can be used for other illumination eg
cigar lighter
Thick brown (red tape)
2 x Thick brown (black
tape)
Ammeter, reverse connections if gauge backwards (ie
shows charging when discharging)
Ammeter feed
Ammeter out
Brown
Blue
Red
Sid
elight & headlamp switch
Live feed in
Headlamps out
Side & panel lights
Red/yellow
White/red
Starter button
Live from ignition key
To starter solenoid
Green
Red/green
Blue/green
Windscreen wiper switch.
Two speed options available
Ignition feed in
Slow speed feed
Fast speeed feed
Green (male)
Green (female)
Black (eyelet)
Voltage stabiliser for fuel gauge (and electrical
temperature gauge if fitted)
Ignition live out
Ignition live in
Earth
Green
Green/black
Fuel gauge
Ignition live
To earth via sender
Yellow/blue
Yellow/green
Overdrive switch
Feed from inhibitor switch
Feed to relat
Red/orange
Red/brown
Rear fog lamp switch
Live feed
Switched live to lamp
Thick brown
Blue/pink (2)
Front spot lamps (optional)
Connect to blue/pink pair via switch or
relay controlled by main beam
Black
Green
Yellow/black
Tac
hometer (Note If using electronic ignition connect
yellow/black to white/black on tachometer)
Connect to black on tachometer
Connect to green on tachometer
Connect to red/blue on tachometer
E. Headlamps & Horns
Blue/red
Blue/white
Red/white
Green/white
Purple/yellow
Rig
ht hand lamps & Horn
Dip beam
Main beam
Side lamp
Indicator lamp
Horn
Blue/pink
Right spot lamp
Feed from dash
Orange
Orange/black
Black
Black eyelet
Coo
ling fan
Live feed from relay
Thermostatic switch control from relay+
Earth
Connect to chassis
Blue/pink
Left spot lamp
Feed from dash
Blue/red
Red/white
Red/black
Green/red
Purple/yellow
Lef
t hand lamps & horm
Dip beam
Main beam
Side lamp
Indicator lamp
Horn
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Appendix 1.1 Fuses and relays.
Fus
es
Bulkhead mounted fuse box, this could be mounted either way up.
Right hand front and rear side lamps and dashboard illumination (22).
Left hand front and rear side lamps (23).
Rear fog lamp (34).
Headlamp dip beam (25).
Headlamp main beam (45).
Live feed for hazard lamps, Horn, main beam flash (39).
Ignition feed 1 (30).
Ignition feed 2 (31).
The ignition feed fuses can vary between the two fuses the typical layout is:
Ignition fuse 1 (30) Ignition feed 2 (31).
Low charge warning lamp. Heater fan.
Tachometer. Relay feeds for cooling fan and fuel pump.
Wiper motor. Indicators.
Overdrive switch feed.
Electric gauge feeds.
Low brake fluid/handbrake warning
Brake lamps.
Reverse lamp.
Line fuses.
There are two or three line fuses,
Main power fuse on bulkhead.
Spot lamp fuse mounted to relay pack.
Optional, behind dash for Auxiliary socket. Typical four pin relay.
Rel
ay fuses.
Three of the relays also have fuses these are;
Overdrive relay.
Fuel pump relay.
Cooling fan relay.
Relays.
Above left is a typical four-pin relay, this works like an electric switch.
Connecting pin 85 to +12v and pin 86 to -12v operates the coil and
connects pin 87 to pin 30. Pins 85 and 86 and pins 30 and 87 can be connected either way around in a standard
four-pin
There is also a three pin flasher relay this connected as follows:
Pin Numbers
85
86
30
87
Overdrive
-12v earth
+12v from dash switch
+12v permanent feed
+12v to overdrive
Fuel pump
-12v earth
+12v ignition feed
+12v permanent feed
+12v to fuel pump
Horn
-12v from horn switch
+12v permanent feed
+12v permanent feed
+12v to horns
Cooling fan
-12v earth
+12v ignition feed
+12v permanent feed
+12v to cooling fan
The
re is also a three-pin flasher relay this connected as follows:
Pin numbers + C
R
Flasher relay
-12v earth
+12v ignition feed
+12v feed to stalk
3 Amp
3 Amp
3 Amp
10 Amp
15 Amp
10 Amp
10 Amp
10 Amp
30 Amp
15 Amp
10 Amp
7.5 Amp
10 Amp
30 Amp
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Appendix 1.2 Wiring Diagram
KEY
TO CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
1. Battery 43A
Indicator warning light LH
2. Starter solenoid 43B Indicator warning light RH
3. Starter motor 44. Hazard flasher switch (if fitted)
4. Alternator 45. Fuse – 10A
5. Ignition switches (a) Steering column (b) Dash 46. Heater fan switch
6. Coil 47. Heater fan
7. Distributor 48. Radiator cooling fan
8. Lighting master switch 49. Cooling fan thermostatic control unit
9. Ammeter 50. Overdrive solenoid
10. Panel lights 51. Cooling fan override switch (optional)
11. Side light RH 52. Fuel pump
12. Tail light RH 53. Horns
13. Side light LH 54. Horn relay
14. Tail light LH 55. Fuel pump relay with 10A fuse
15. Spot light RH 56. Cooling fan relay with 30A fuse
16. Spot light LH 57. Overdrive relay with 10A fuse
17. Indicator front LH 58. Overdrive inhibitor switch
18. Indicator rear LH 59. Overdrive dash switch
19. Headlamp dipped beam RH 60. Low brake fluid and handbrake
20. Headlamp dipped beam LH on warning light
21. Panel light switch 61. Float switch in brake fluid reservoir
22. Fuse – 3A 62. Handbrake on limit switch
23. Fuse – 3A 63. Fuel tank sender unit
24. Fuse – 15A 64. Fuel gauge
25. Fuse – 10A 65. Voltage stabiliser
26. Starter button 66. Water temperature gauge
27. Cigarette lighter socket (if fitted) 67. Oil pressure gauge
28. Spotlamp switch 68. Water temperature sender unit
29. Ignition warning light 69. Oil pressure sender unit
30. Fuse – 10A 70. Stop light switch
31. Fuse – 10A 71. Reversing light gearbox switch
32. Headlamp flying lead connector 72. Stop light RH
33. Indicator stalk multi plug 73. Stop light LH
34. Fuse 3A or 5A 74. Reversing light
35. Rear fog lamp switch 75. Indicator front RH
36. Tachometer 76. Indicator rear RH
37. Wiper motor 77. Headlamp main beam RH
38. Wiper switch
78. H
eadlamp main beam LH
39. Fuse – 10A 79. Main beam warning light
40. Indicator flasher unit 80. Rear fog light
41. Fuse – 10A (if hazard flasher fitted) 81. Rear fog light warning light
43. Hazard flasher unit (if fitted) 82. Cigarette lighter socket fuse – 25A (if fitted)
83. Automatic gearbox selector bulb
84. Fuse – 10A (in line under dash)
85. Master fuse (beside battery)
Wire colour coding
B : Black G : Green K : Pink N : Brown O : Orange P : Purple
R : Red S : Slate (grey) U : Blue W : White Y : Yellow
Optional items
Optional items and their circuits are shown in dotted. A hazard warning system is generally a legal requirement if the
donor car was fitted with one, otherwise it is optional. When no hazard warning switch is present, the hard line
connection shown between pins 4 & 5 applies. When fitted, disregard the line between pins 4 & 5.
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Appendix 2 - Figures
Fig 1. Puller for differential mounting bushes `
Fig 2. Setting rear wheel camber
Fig 3. Exhaust system assembly
Fig 4. Front lower wishbone identification
Fig 5. Peering of the bonnet panel edges
Fig 6. Mounting holes for handbrake lever
Fig 7. Seat runner positions
Fig 8. Jig tool for marking out lower body fixing holes
Fig 9. Location of throttle pedal
Fig 10. Location of radiator core relative to radiator hoop
Fig 11. Location of door latches
Fig 12. Location of rear reflectors
Fig 13. Fitting of running board strakes
Fig 14. Dashboard layout & grab handle location
Fig 15. Windscreen fitting
Fig 16. Indicator Stalk Wiring Illustration
Fig 17. Headlamp alignment
Fig 18. Front wishbones – old & new types
Fig 19. Body to chassis fixing locations
Fig 20. Loom placement diagram
Fig 21. Drilling of bonnet hinges for rivets
Fig 22. Steering column locating jig
Fig 23. Cut out holes in gearbox cover for maintenance
Fig 24. Shock absorber height adjustment
Fig 25. Wiring of rear lamps
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Figure 1 – Puller for differential mounting bushes
Figure 2 – Setting rear wheel camber
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Figure 3 – Exhaust system assembly
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Figure 4 – Front Wishbone Identification.
Front of car
Late XJ6 Lower Wishbones
Most common type.
Curved outer end that points
forward,
Spacer behind chassis, special
washer between spacer and
wishbone at rear and between
chassis and wishbone at front.
Early XJ6 Upper Wishbones
These arms vary from side to
side and are straight in
appearance. Chamfered arm is
front item, threads open on
underside. Fit three spacer
shims behind ball joint.
Late XJ6 Upper Wishbones
These arms will fit both sides of
car and are curvy in appearance.
Threads are open on underside.
Fit three spacer shims in front
of ball joint.
Early XJ6 Lower Wishbones
Straight outer end, spacer in
front of chassis, special
washer between spacer and
wishbone at front and between
chassis and wishbone rear.
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Figure 5 – Peering of the bonnet panel edges
Figure 6 – Carburettor Pipe Location
Below is the most common carburettor type. If your carburettors are different please refer to Haynes Manual or contact
Suffolk Sportscars.
Forward carburettor
pipe locations:
A – Fuel Input
Via “T” piece and
filter
B – Fuel Overflow
Fit vent pipe down to
bottom of sump
C – Breather
Connect pipe from
engine front cover.
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Figure 7 – Seat Runner Positions
Ini
tial drilling for right hand inner seat runner before floorboards fitted, mirror image for left hand inner runner.
A (seat belt clip mount) to B variable depending on height of driver 150mm – 190mm.
B to C always 330mm (length between seat runner mount holes).
B and C should be approx. 10mm off main chassis rail.
Pos
itions for inner runner if floorboards already fitted and for positioning outer runner.
A B C
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Figure 8 – Jig tool for marking out lower body fixing holes
Figure 9 – Location of throttle pedal
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Figure 10 – Location of door latches
Figure 11 – Location of rear reflectors
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Figure 13 – Strake Fitting
Pos
itions for strakes:
• Rear end of strakes level and 83 mm forward of rear edge of door.
• First strake fitting - A 25 mm from edge of body.
• Second strake fitting - E 25 mm from wing beading, 30 mm if fitting before beading.
• Third strake fitting – C central between A and E.
• Forth strake fitting – B central between A and C.
• Fifth strake fitting – D central between C and E.
Cutting and gluing rubber insert:
Cut
“V” into rubber before bringing together with super glue.
A B C D E
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Figure 13 – Dashboard layout and grab handle location
Figure 14 – Windscreen fitting
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Figure 15 – Floorboard Fitting Kit
A & B
2no. M6 x 20mm countersunk slot screws – drill 5mm hole & tap M6
C1 & D1
2no. M6 x 20mm countersunk slot screws – drill 5mm hole & tap M6
C2 & D2
4no. 5/16” x 1 1/4” UNF socket head cap screws for seat runners – drill 7mm & tap
5/16”unf
C3 & D3
2no. M6 claw nuts with screws – drill 6.5mm hole and hammer in nut on top surface. Screw
angle brackets to under side of board into claw nuts
1no. M6 claw nut & screw and 2no. small wood screws for clutch fluid filler cover
F1 & F2
2no. self tapping countersunk posi drive screws – screw into metalwork
F3 & F4
2no. M5 x 20mm machine screws screws – drill 4mm holes & tap M5 into angle
F5 & F6
4no. small countersunk woodscrews for fixing hinges onto section ‘G’
G1 & G2
2no. self tapping countersunk posi drive screws – screw into metalwork
G3 & G4
4no. small countersunk woodscrews for fixing hinges onto section ‘H’
H
2no. 7/16” unf bolts (‘+’ into the captive nuts on chassis)
J1 & J2
16no. countersunk slot wood screws with cup washers for tunnels
- Fixings supplied in Nut & Bolt kit. All other fixings supplied separately with this kit.
Picture to left
This shows an example of how the rear
floorboards can be fitted with a piano hinge
format allowing great access to the rear brakes
and suspension.
These panels can also be made removable with
a hidden tool tray under the top panel that can
have a hinged lid cut in.
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Figure 16 – Headlamp alignment
Figure 17 – Body to Chassis Fixing Locations
Positions B,C,D and E are the main horizontal mounting points (spacers supplied if needed)
G,H,J and K are bonnet hook mounting points (spacers supplied if needed)
A and F horizontal mounts and vertical positions which are marked with stars
will need spacers made keeping body in its natural position.
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Figure 18 – Heater Fitting Instructions
Heater Kit Contents:
1no. Heater (2 speed)
3no. Self-tapping fixing screws
1no. 1m length of heater hose & 6no. hose clips (enough hose for inlet & outlet)
1no. On/off tap
2no. 280mm lengths of ∅15mm copper pipe with On/off tap to be fitted half way
1no. Bulkhead plate & sponge gasket
1. Position the heater inside the car using the 3 holes that are pre-drilled/countersunk in the battery tray area. There are 3
holes in the plastic heater housing that will mate up with these. Fix the screws into the housing top using the self-tapping
screws provided, making sure that the water pipes are on the O/S (RH).
2. Feed the upper rubber heater hose through the pre-drilled holes in the bulkhead and connect it to the carburettor
manifold outlet at the rear of the engine.
3. The lower hose will be connected to the back face of the water pump via the ∅15mm copper pipe which has an on/off
tap fitted half way along the pipe. Use a short piece of hose to connect the copper pipe to the water pump outlet. The other
end connects to the lower heater hose.
4. This photo shows the heater fitted and ready to wire in. This heater has 2 speeds, so the user can choose the preferred
speed at the time of wiring. Alternatively, a twin pull switch could be sourced for the dash instead of the single
push/pull
supplied by Suffolk Sportscars Ltd.
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Figure 19 – Loom placement diagram
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Figure 20 – Drilling hole of bonnet hinges for rivets
Figure 21 – Steering column locating jig
a
c
b
d
f e a
b
Headlamp bar fixings positions
a – ‘O’
rings, slide over bar before
fitting.
b – Rubber washers Super glue to
hold in place to protect body.
c – Spacer to fit inside wing
aperture.
d – M8 x 30 mm side fixing bolt,
plain and lock washers
e – Locking nut. Sits above chassis,
adjust height to touch chassis before
tightening f below chassis.
f – Plain nut and lock washer
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Figure 22 – Cut out holes in gearbox cover for maintenance
Figure 23 – Shock absorber height adjustment
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Figure 24 – Wiring of rear lamps
It is optional which way around you mount your rear lamps i.e. red outside or inside. Suffolk
Sportscars suggest the way below as this means the tail lamp also known as the marker lamp is
towards the outer edge of the body marking the outer most position of the body.
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Appendix 3 - Photographs
Photo 1 – Rear axle components
Photo 2 – Assembled engine, gearbox and rear axle
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Photo 3 – Rear axle fitted
Photo 4 – Front suspension
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Photo 5 – Early build stages
Photo 6 – Rolling chassis
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Photo 7 – Stainless steel manifolds fitted
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Photo 8 – Different headlamp options
TYPE 40 HEADLAMPS LUCAS QK596 HEADLAMPS
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Appendix 4 - Fluids, lubricants and maintenance data
Grease points
Steering rack 1
Bra
ke pedal 1
Clutch pedal 1
Propshaft 3
Rear drive shafts ` 4
Lower wishbone inner pivot 4
Lower wishbone outer pivot 2
Oils
Engine 20/50
multigrade (Duckham’s or Castrol)
Gearbox EP90
Differential EP90
Fluids
Ant
ifreeze/corrosion inhibitor 50% mixture
Brake fluid DOT 4 universal
Clutch fluid DOT 4 universal
Tyre pressures
Front 24 psi normal, up to 28 psi loaded
Rear 26 psi normal, up to 30 psi loaded
Fuels
The tank holds 141/2 gallons. Use super unleaded petrol on VSE and EMS rebuilt engines
Wire wheels
Do not use pressure washers to clean spokes and rims as water is driven into the rim holes and initiates corrosion.
Chrome plated wire wheels demand special care. A little WD40 spayed on when exposed to wet weather will help to
maintain their condition.
Adjustable shock absorbers
Always ensure that the settings are evenly balanced side to side. Note that weight distribution is 46% front, 54% rear
with the car unladen.
Fluid Levels
Eng
ine (8.25 Litres of Mineral 20w/50) – If you have received a newly reconditioned engine from Suffolk Sportscars, it
is important to follow to procedure below:
1. The engine will have been test run at the engine builders. They use a running in oil, which is usually drained
prior to delivery due to courier regulations. But, before filling with the recommended 20/50 mineral oil you are
advised to remove the sump drain plug even if no oil registers on the dipstick. This ensures that the engine is
‘dry’ and ready to fill. Refit the sump plug.
2. It is recommended that when filling the engine with oil for the first time, you don’t depend on the dipstick
markings as a ‘definite’ fluid measure. This is because there are a number of different length dipsticks for
different engines. Your engine has not necessarily been mated to the correct dipstick.
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3. An engine oil change with new filter requires 8.25 litres of oil. Proceed by measuring as accurately as possible
(using a measuring jug) the correct amount. When the oil has settled and drained back into the sump, the
dipstick can be checked for accuracy taking into account the capacity of the filter. If there is a discrepancy
between the ‘known’ amount and the level markings on the dipstick (i.e. +/- 3-4mm) contact SS Works for
advise.
4. SP O/D Gearbox (approx 1.6 Litres of Hypoid 90 gear oil) – The filler plug is also the level indicator so
overfilling is not possible. However, it will be under-filled until the overdrive has been ‘spun’ to fill its
chambers. This can be achieved by starting the engine and engaging 1
st
gear or if the car is not yet in a running
state, you can jack the car up and rotate the propshaft/gearbox by turning the rear wheels. Recheck the fluid
level as necessary.
Rear Axle (approx. 1.5 Litres of Hypoid 90 gear oil) – As with the gearbox, the filler plug is also the level indicator.
Running In and Service Instructions
Your engine has been test run and checked before dispatch.
On installation the engine should be filled with quality 20/50 engine oil and fitted with new filter (some
engines are supplied with filter ready fitted). Check condition of coolant system.
Fill with correct ratio of quality antifreeze (containing corrosion inhibitor) and fresh clean water. Check
condition of all ancillary components and set ignition timing to factory specification.
Driving and Service
For the first 500 miles to not exceed 3000 RPM. Do not labour engine and avoid constant speed
(i.e. Motorways). Vary engine speed as much as possible (Up to 3000 RPM).
500 MILES
Drain engine oil (with oil hot). Fit new filter. Refill with quality mineral 20/50 oil or 15/40 mineral oil.
With engine cold retorque cylinder head nuts to 60 ft lbs (82 Newton metres). Check all hose clips,
ancillary securing bolts etc. Check ignition timing and carb mixture (CO/HC).
500 - 1000 MILES
Gradually increase maximum revs from 3000 to 4500 rpm for short bursts
1000 - 1500 MILES
Build up to maximum revs for your model. Do not use sustained high revs for long periods.
Carry out a full nut & bolt tightness check on the engine, chassis & body components
1500 MILES
Repeat service instructions as per 500 miles.
We strongly advise that valve clearances are checked by competent mechanic.
Your running in period is now complete and your service intervals are as per the factory instruction for
your model.
Note : When tightening the nuts for the polished cam covers, do not overtighten, use 4 ft-lb torque max.
Remember Jaguar engines suffer on short journeys. Most engine wear and damage occurs within the first 10
miles before the oil & components are at full working temperature. Keep regular checks on cooling system
condition, ignition, timing and carb mixture.
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