Stratco OUTBACK PERGOLA Assembly Manual

OUTBACK PERGOLA
STRATCO DO -IT-YOURSELF PROJECTS.
Y our complete guide to assembling a
Stratco Outback Pergola.
Erecting a Stratco Outback Pergola is easy - all it takes is some preplanning and careful design. This brochure is designed to give you the basic techniques required for assembly and further advice is available from Stratco.
As well as improving the look of your outdoor entertaining area, the Stratco Outback Pergola adds value to your home and provides a sheltered area for you and your plants. When planning your pergola, determine the most important reason for its construction (e.g. shade, privacy, appearance) and list the less important objectives also. Ensure that you bring these details to Stratco with your design for the best advice. Standard Pergola designs are available, but Stratco can customise a Pergola to suit your particular application. Either profiled pergola beam ends or plain ends are available to suit the style of your home.
A wide range of cladding, screens and shading alternatives are available to suit your home, including the all new Stratco Shade Blade system.
COUNCIL APPROVAL PARTS DESCRIPTIONGUIDE TO DESIGN REMINDERSBEFORE YOU START INSTALLATION
It is important to contact your local government authority prior to erection of your new Pergola to determine if building or planning approval is required. In general, no permit is required if the Pergola is open and allows wind to freely flow through the structure. A permit is usually required if a roof covering or side screen is part of the design or if the structure is built on a boundary. (Note: The Outback Pergola has not been designed to allow roofing.)
Designs which allow air movement, but provide shade (e.g. shadecloth, lattice work, Stratco Shade Blade) will generally not cause the structure to require local government approval.
After deciding on the function of your Stratco Outback Pergola and its position relative to the house, check for obstructions such as underground tanks and drains and note the position of the sun to allow for winter warmth and summer shade.
The minimum height required by many local government authorities is 2 metres under the lowest part of the pergola, and a check on the height of surrounding buildings will help you decide the final height for your structure.
Freestanding or attached styles are available, depending on your needs. If free standing, ensure that the height is not greater than its width, otherwise it will appear taller than it really is.
Whilst the Stratco Outback Pergola System has been designed and constructed for maximum strength, it is NOT designed to withstand the stress of roofing or to be used as a structure for lifting. Maximum recommended spans between columns is 4.5 metres.
Read these instructions before starting your project. If you do not have all the necessary tools or information, contact Stratco for advice.
Before starting, lay out the main components in order of assembly on the ground and check them against the delivery note. The parts description identifies each part and their fastening positions.
Mark out the overall area of your Stratco Outback Pergola on the ground using pegs and string line, ensuring that the site is level and free of obstructions.
Check column, beam and rafter positions on the ground. Roughly check for square and mark hole locations. Beam-to-wall connections can cause difficulty if they coincide with door and window openings, so avoid these in your design.
TOPICS COVERED INCLUDE:
COUNCIL APPROVAL
GUIDE TO DESIGN
BEFORE YOU START
Measure twice before cuttingAlways remove drill filings (‘swarf’) and all other debris which
otherwise can cause premature rusting.
Refer to “Selection Use and Maintenance of Stratco Steel
Products” brochure for maintenance instructions and helpful hints to prolong the life of your unit.
WALL/FASCIA CONNECTION
Determine the required rafter spacings. The two end rafters should be placed at right angles to the fascia beams directly over the post. The remainder to be spaced at nominated centres (usually up to 900mm centres).
On the wall, or fascia, mark a horizontal line 15mm down from the top of each beam. Align the top of a wall bracket with each line. Mark the position for the fasteners, drill 8mm holes and fasten the brackets to the wall using 2 M8x65 masonry anchors per brackets (or use 10mm diameter coach screws or bolts for timber or steel fascia respectively).
In some fascia fixing applications it may be necessary to use the suspension bracket, which replaces the wall bracket.
When fastening to steel fascia, the roofing or eaves lining should be removed and a steel fascia bracket fastened to the side of the rafters at 1200mm centres (see Figure1).
ASSEMBLE BEAMS ON THE GROUND
Important: Ensure the double thickness portion is at the top of
the beam when installing all beams. Measure the front beam (and intermediate beams if required)
Ensure the double thickness portion of the beam is always at
the top
Remove protective plastic coating before attaching brackets,
fasteners or other parts and after completion.
Use of temporary props will assist easier installation of
your unit.
PARTS DESCRIPTION
REMINDERS
A GUIDE TO THE OUTBACK PERGOLA INSTALLATION
Rafter
Clickfast Fascia
2xM10
Coach Bolts
Steel Fascia
Bracket
M6 Gutter
Bolt
Figure 1
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
LOCA TION OF
COMPONENTS
M
L
K
J
A B C D E
F
G
H
I J K L
M
Wall Bracket Purlins Purlin Endcaps Rafters Fascia Beam Beam Endcap Post Bracket
Post Caps Column Connection Sleeve Connection Bracket Pergola End Pergola Endcap
marking where rafters and columns connect. Clip the post brackets onto the bottom of the beam where the columns are to meet. Fasten through the bracket holes into the beams flute using 4 10x25 countersunk self drilling screws per bracket (see Figure 2).
Place the beam-to-beam connection brackets on the top of the
beam where the rafters are to intersect with the beam, making sure that the location corresponds with the wall brackets. Fasten through the connection bracket holes into the beam using 2 10x16 self drilling screws per bracket (see Figure 2). Push in beam endcap if required.
ASSEMBLE RAFTER ON THE GROUND
Check the beam orientation against the pergola end, making sure that the laps of each beam are on the same side. Ensuring that the double thickness portion is at the top, slide the beam- to­beam connection sleeve over the end of the beam. Line the end of the beam up with the notch of the sleeve and fasten using 5
10x16 coloured self drilling screws through the holes provided. Slide the pergola end into the connection sleeve, aligning it with the other side of the notch and screw into place (see Figure 3.) Pergola endcaps simply snap into place.
FIXING THE END RAFTER
Select an end rafter, lift it into the wall bracket, (as described in Figure 4) positioning it between the flanges so that the curved top of the flanges locate against the top flute of the beam.
Support the other end of the rafter on an adjustable construction prop, and screw into position using 4 10x16 coloured self drilling screws through the holes in the wall bracket (see Figure 4).
POSITIONING THE BEAM
Supporting the front beam on construction props, slide the end rafter connection sleeve over the connection bracket on the beam, fastening in position with 2 10x16 coloured self drilling screws through the holes in the sleeve (see Figure 5).
FIXING THE REMAINING RAFTERS
Fix the other end rafter by lifting it over the front beam then sliding it back into the flanges of the wall bracket, screwing it into position. Lift the rafter over the connection bracket and screw
through the holes provided. Attach the remaining rafters following this method.
ATTACHING COLUMNS
Dig column holes to a minimum of 300mm long x 300mm wide x 450mm deep. Place a half brick in the bottom of the hole to minimise settlement. Measure the distance from the bottom of the beam to the top of the brick, and cut the column to length.
Slide the top of the column over the post bracket until it is flush with the under side of the beam. Mark and drill an 11mm diameter hole on the two plain faces of the column 30mm below the top of the column. Fasten with the M10 x 75mm bolt and selflocking nut supplied and push post caps into place.
FRAMEWORK CHECK
Check that all posts are vertical and beams and rafters are square and level. Check the basic framework for squareness by ensuring the diagonal measurements are the same (see Figure
6). ie. A, C and B, D are the same distance. Concrete the posts into position.
PURLIN CONNECTIONS
If further stability of rafters is required, or shade cloth is proposed, purlins can be screwed to rafters every 600mm to 1200mm. It is recommended that any shade cloth is fitted between the top of the rafters and the bottom of the purlins for a superior, tidy finish. Purlin endcaps simply push into place. These should be removed periodically and any debris washed out. Do not seal.
TRACK INSTALLATION
Fasten with 4 10x16 coloured selfdrilling screws
Pivot up
Locate beam on bracket groove
Slide in flush
Figure 4
Wall bracket
Fascia beam
Connection bracket
End rafter beam
Connection sleeve
Fasten with 2 10x16 coloured self drilling srews
Pergola end
Construction prop
Post bracket
Construction prop
Figure 5
Beam endcap
Connection bracket
Fasten with 2 10x16 self drilling screws
Fascia beam
Fasten with countersunk self drilling screws (two on each side)
Post cap
Figure 2
Post bracket
A
B
C
D
Figure 6
Connection sleeve
Rafter beam
Pergola end
Pergola Endcap
Fasten with 5 10x16 coloured self drilling screws
Ensure that rafter beam and pergola end are correctly orientated, with double thickness portion at the top
Figure 3
Figure 7
Purlin endcap
Rafter beam
Shadecloth
Purlin
Fasten with 2 10x16 self drilling screws
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