The Monarch Overdrive is an all
discrete, FET-based dirt machine.
It’s designed around the input stage
of a vintage amp but congured to
produce higher gains that sound
very open and free of unnatural
Kit case is u npainted
bottom end with a snappy, bright top at all gain ranges with
some careful tuning of the treble and bass controls. The
treble and bass controls function as frequency boosters,
not the traditional roll o lters in most overdrives. They are
located in the preamp section and have a large impact on
the over all tone, nature and distortion characteristics. If you
are looking for an overdrive for big fat chords with excellent
low end retention, this is it!
An EarthQuaker Devices original, the Monarch Overdrive
has been out of production for some time, but now you can
build your own!
Tools and supplies
Tips for soldering
Required: Soldering iron with ne point tip
Solder
Wire cutter/stripper
3/8" nut driver or socket
1/2" nut driver or socket
10mm nut driver or socket
14mm wrench
#1 Phillips screwdriver
Also helpful: Clear silicone adhesive
Circuit card holder
Magnifying glass or OptiVISOR
StewMac Soldering Aids
Power: This pedal requires a standard 9V DC
center-negative power supply or 9V battery
(neither included) and consumes less than
100 mA.
The solder joints you’ll make on the
circuit board are very small, and too
much heat can damage the board.
The idea is to make joints quickly,
without scorching the eyelets.
Hold components in place for soldering by threading the
leads through the board and bending them apart on the
reverse side.
Make your solder joints on the reverse side. Insert the tip into
the eyelet and let it heat for 4-5 seconds before touching it
with solder. This heats the contact enough for the solder to
ow nicely without damage. You don’t need much solder,
just enough to ll the eyelet. After soldering, trim away the
excess lead wire.
Give your pedal a custom paint job!
Any paint sold for use on metal will work well on the kit case.
Spray paints like Rustoleum® or Krylon® are a durable nish.
You might want to paint the case before building the kit,
so you won’t need to take the parts back out for painting.
A way to add custom graphics is to print them from your
computer onto waterslide decal paper. If you use decals,
protect them from scratches by spraying clear topcoats
over them.
Resistor values are indicated by colored bands, read from left
to right. The rst color in the code is usually the one painted
closest to a lead wire. When a gold or silver band is present,
it’s always one of the last colors in the code. A magnier is
a big help in reading these codes.
Brown Black Black Brown Brown
Brown Black Black Black Brown
Brown Black Black Red Brown
1KΩ resistor (1) #7357
100Ω resistor (1) #7352
10KΩ resistors (4) #7362
Save time: sort the
components by type
before you art!
222J 100V
103J 100V
.0047J 100n
100V
100V
.0047J
100n
222J
.0022µF capacitor (1) #7330
103J
.01µF capacitors (2) #7331
.0047µF capacitor (1) #7321
Brown Black Black Orange Brown
Brown Black Black Yellow Brown
RedRed Black Red Brown
Blue Gray Black Red Brown
Yellow Purple Black Orange Brown
Orange Orange Black Black Brown
Brown Black
Blue Gold
474J 100V
1uF
10uF
100uF
100V
474J
100KΩ resistor (3) #7365
1MΩ resistors (3) #7367
22KΩ resistors (2) #7379
68KΩ resistor (1) #7380
470KΩ resistor (1) #7382
330Ω resistor (1) #7375
10M resistors (2) #7383
1N4001 rectier diode (1)
1µF capacitors (2) #7337
10µF capacitors (2) #7338
100µF capacitor (1) #7339
.47µF capacitor (1) #7336
#7404
BS
170
2N
5457
PT2399
StereoMono
5mm white LED (1) #7422
5mm LED mounting bezel (1) #7432
BS170 transistor (1) #7485
2N5457 transistors (3) #7486
24" of lead wire (1) #5960
A1MΩ audio taper pots (3) #7459
B100KΩ linear taper pot (1) #7453
The three types of capacitors shown below are polarized,
and have to be installed in the correct orientation. Note
the stripe running the length of each cap; this identies the
negative (minus) lead. On the circuit board, the circle for this
cap’s location has a round through hole on one side, and a
square through hole on the other: insert the capacitors with
their stripe facing the round hole side. (On polarized caps of
.47
.001
100K
.022
100K
.0022
22K
.0047
10
1M
1
1M
100u
this type, there’s a second way to identify the minus lead: it
is the shorter of the two leads.)
100uF
10uF
100µF capacitor (1) #7339
10µF capacitors (2) #7338
1uF
1µF capacitors (2) #7337
G
L
V–V+B+
B+ B– B– G
I
O
10K
100 p
220 p
100K
10K
10K
100
10K
10M
330
10M
.01
100p
68K
1M
10
EarthQuaker Devices
Monarch Rev 2 | 2011
The remaining capacitors below are not polarized. Solder
Transistors are directional, and they need to be installed
in a specic direction to function properly. Note that each
transistor has a at side. On the circuit board, their locations
have one side with a single at line. Install the transistors to
match their outline.
Step 5: Install nine lead wires
100u
EarthQuaker Devices
Monarch Rev 2 | 2011
24" of lead wire (1) #5960
.47
.022
.001
100K
100K
.0022
1M
.0047
1M
22K
1K
22K
.01
.001
470K
470p
The kit comes with 24" of lead wire. Cut the wire into 2”
sections. This will give you twelve 2" sections.
10
10
1
Strip around 3/32" of both ends of the 2" pieces. On one of
the 2" pieces, strip 1/4" o one end and 3/32" o the other.
This allows this wire to jump lugs on the footswitch.
100
330
10K
10M
.01
10M
1M
68K
100p
10K
1
10K
100K
220p
100p
10K
Nine lead wires will be installed in eyelets; V+, V-, B+, B-, G,
I, O, G, and L. Leave the second B+ and B- eyelets inside the
V–V+B+
B+ B– B– G
I
O
G
L
rectangle open for the next step.
The two extra wires will be used to connect the jacks to the
footswitch. Note: save the wire with 1/4" stripped for this
step. There will be one extra wire not needed.
9V battery clip (1) #1222
Protective cap (1) #1227
Place the 9V protective cap on the 9V clip. This cap protects
the battery clip from coming in contact with the other electronic components.
Flip the board over, the 9V battery clip will be installed on
the back of the board. The 9V battery clip has two leads,
black (negative) and red (positive). The black lead goes to
eyelet B- and the red lead goes to eyelet B+. The leads must
be installed in the proper eyelets to function properly.
The last components to go onto the circuit board are the four
control pots. They install on the back of the board. Each pot
has three connecting lugs, refer to the below left graphic to
be sure your orientation is correct when installing the pots.
If any pot has an index pin protruding from the case, break
it o before installation, so the pot will mount ush against
the pedal case. Needle nose pliers work well for removing
the pins.
Use the adhesive foam tape to insulate the back of the
pots from the soldered leads of the other parts on the circuit
board. Solder the pot in place, making sure the foam back
sits at the back of the board.
If the pot has an index pin, break it o.
A1MΩ “treble” pot #7459
Apply adhesive foam tape to back of the pots
A1M
A1MΩ “bass” pot #7459
A1MΩ “gain” pot #7459
Apply adhesive foam tape to back of the pots
B100KΩ “level” pot #7453
A1M
Refer to the left graphic to be sure your orientation is correct
when installing the pots.
The LED mounting bezel consists of two main parts: A ring
that the LED ts into, and a plastic plug that goes over the
LED from the back side to keep it in place.
5mm white LED (1) #7422
5mm LED mounting bezel (1) #7432
Like some of the caps and diodes, the LED is polarized and
has to be installed in a specic direction. One side of the diode has a at edge, indicating the negative lead. Another indication is that the negative lead is shorter than the positive.
Install the mounting bezel through the front of the enclosure.
From the inside, slip a lock washer and nut on and tighten it
up using a 3/8" socket. Insert the LED into the bezel so the
at side (short lead) faces the hole for the footswitch. Feed
the leads through the plastic plug, press the plug down until
it’s tight in the bezel. The LED will be held in place when you
solder the leads to the switches and circuit board. For a more
secure mount, you can run a bead of clear silicone adhesive
around the plastic plug.
Install the footswitch so the part number printed on the side
faces the bottom of the enclosure. Use a 14mm wrench
to tighten it up. The switch is the eect bypass switch that
turns on the pedal.
3PDT latching footswitch (1) #1611
Step 10: Install the circuit board
100u
EarthQuaker Devices
Monarch Rev 2 | 2011
The circuit board is held in place by the control pots.
Install their shafts through the top of the case, and thread
.47
.022
.001
100K
330
100
10K
10M
B+ B– B– G
V–V+ B+
1M
1M
22K
100K
.0047
.0022
10
1
.01
1M
68K
10M
100p
OIG
1K
.01
22K
.001
470K
470p
10
1
10K
10K
100K
220p
100p
10K
L
washers onto them on the outside. Using a 10mm wrench
install the mounting nuts so they are good and snug, but
take care not to overtighten.
Do not connect any of the lead wires at this point.
There are two dierent jacks for this kit, one stereo and
one mono. The stereo jack is the input and the mono is the
V–V+ B+
B+ B– B– G
OIG
L
output. When looking at the back of the enclosure, the stereo
jack will go on the left side and the mono on the right. Install
the input and output jacks with the solder lugs facing up.
This will make soldering easier later.
Run the 9V battery clip under the jack to keep it out of the
way.
A 1/2" wrench is recommended to tighten the jacks in place.
With all of the components in place, it is time to wire it all up.
Starting on the left-hand side of the circuit board, wire up the
DC jack rst. The wire labeled V+ connects to the +9V lug.
V- connects to Masse (GND) lug. B+ connects to Battery + lug.
.01
.001
470p
Next solder the input jack. Solder the wire labeled B- to the
lug that connects to the shorter tip of input jack. This will
disconnect the battery when unplugged. Next solder the
wire labeled G to the sleeve lug on the input jack. This lug
10K
10K
L
connects to the threaded shaft of the jack.
Continuing, solder the wire labeled I to lug #1 on the footswitch. Solder the wire labeled O to lug #4. Finally, solder
the wire labeled G to lug #7.
Solder the nal wire labeled L to the positive (long) lead of
the LED.
Moving on to the footswitch, solder a wire to lug #2 then
solder the same wire to the lug of the input jack that connects to the longer tip. Solder the wire with the 1/4” striped
end to jumper lugs #3 and #5 on the footswitch, then solder
the same wire to the tip lug of the output jack. Finally solder
the negative (shorter) lead of the LED to the #8 lug of the
footswitch.
Masse (GND) lug
+9V lug
Battery + lug
The lugs on the DC jack are as
show above.
1
4
7
2
5
8
3
6
9
The lugs on the footswitches are
numbered as shown above.
Add a battery, if you would like. Screw on the back panel
and plug in!
Level: Adjusts the output level, unity is around 9 o’clock…
This thing is LOUD!
Power: Use a standard 9 volt DC power supply with a
2.1mm negative-center barrel (not included). We always
LEVELGAIN
INPUTOUTPUT
recommend pedal-specic, transformer-isolated wall-wart
power supplies or supplies with separate isolated outputs.
Pedals will make extra noise if there is ripple or unclean
power. Switching-type power supplies, daisy chains and
non-pedal specic power supplies do not lter dirty power as
well and let through unwanted noise. Do not run at higher