Stevens Aero Model Pober Pixie 360 Build Instructions

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Page 1

Pober Pixie

360

Sport Scale Pixie Parasol (1974). Our twist on Paul Poberezney’s home built classic.

A modern delight that owes it’s lineage to the helmet and goggle days of the 1930’s.

Wing Span: 36.0 inches | Wing Area: 190 square inches | Average Flying Weight: 8 ounces

Build Instructions - Version 1.24 (revised 06.08.2015)

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WARRANTY

Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

LIABILITY RELEASE

In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from use by the user. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

THIS PRODUCT IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHILDREN 12 YEARS OF AGE OR YOUNGER.

WARNING: This product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and or birth defects or other reproductive harm.

PRODUCT SUPPORT

This product has been engineered to function properly and perform as advertised, with the suggested power system and supporting electronics as outlined within this product manual. Product support cannot be provided, nor can Stevens AeroModel assist in determining the suitability or use of electronics, hardware, or power systems not explicitly recommended by Stevens AeroModel.

For product assembly support, replacement parts, hardware, and electronics to complete this model, please contact Stevens AeroModel at www.stevensaero.com.

Stevens AeroModel

26405 Judge Orr Rd. Colorado Springs, CO 80808 USA 719-387-4187 www.stevensaero.com

Build Instructions

Page 3

Build Instructions

Pober Pixie (360) - Kit Inventory

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Laser-cut wood, 13 sheets (See Sheet Wood Inventory, page 5)

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Illustrated Build Instructions

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Detail Sheet, 1 sheets, 11 in. x 17 in.

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3 - 3/16 in. x 3/16 in. x 24 in. Balsa Stock (Leading Edge and Stringers)

Taped to back of wood brick:

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2 - 0.020 in. dia. x 18 in. Wire (Pushrods)

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1 - 0.032 in. dia. x 12 in. Wire (Tail wheel) [1002]

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1 - 0.025 in. dia. x 12 in. length wire (Wing Strut Attachment) [1001]

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1 - 0.063 in. dia. x 12 in. length wire (Landing Gear) [1006]

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2 - 0.070 in. dia. x 12 in. Nylon Tubing (Pushrod Housing) [2022]

Hardware bag (2x3):

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1 - Tail Wheel, Plastic (with retainer), 3/8 in. diameter [DUB38MTW]

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1 - Heat Shrink Tube, 1/16 in. dia. x 1-1/2 in. length [*]

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4 - Aluminum Tubes, 1/16 in. dia. x 1/4 in. length [2010]

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4 - Delrin Strut Anchors [*]

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4 - Screws, #2 x 1/4 in. [3011]

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4 - Neo-Magnets, 3/16 in. dia. x 1/16 in. thick [4014]

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8 - Screws, #0 x 3/16 in. [3010]

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10 - Nylon Washers, #4 [3018]

Hardware bag (4x6):

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1 - Pair Wheels, Foam, 1-1/4 in. diameter [DUB125MW]

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1 - Fishing Line (2# Test), 1 ft. length [*]

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1 - Elevator Joiner, Laser Cut Part E6 [*]

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1 - Pre-Cut Acetate windshield [*]

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6 - Rubber Bands, #16 [*]

Pober Pixie - Background

The Pober Pixie (360) is our sport scale rendition of Paul Poberezney’s home built classic. Mr. Poberezney needs no introduction to the EAA home built community and is a veritable legend in these circles with several designs to his credit. The Pixie, while a completely modern subject, echos back to the golden age of flight and those early “Helmet and Goggle” days. Taking construction and styling cues from the likes of Ed Heath and his 1930’s LNB parasol.

This kit allows you to build a fine sport scale version of this classic from the homebuilt community. Color schemes abound for this beauty, it seemed fitting, however, to use the classic scheme in our example

model. (AeroFILMTM Medium Blue, AeroLITETM Bright White, and Yellow and Black AeroTRIMTM)

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Build Instructions

Suggested Items to Complete this Model

Many of the suggested items listed below are available at your local hobby shop. For your convenience, Stevens AeroModel stocks all of the power system components and most of the building supplies required to complete this kit. If you have difficulties sourcing any of these items locally, please visit our website, stevensaero.com to purchase the items necessary to complete your model.

Required Electronics

RC transmitter with at least 3 channels

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Micro Receiver compatible with RC transmitter

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2 Hitec HS-35, HS-40, or HS-55 micro servos (or equivalent)

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Motor, Park BL250 2200KV (SUPA1510-15)

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Speed Control, 10A Brushless ESC (SUP10AESC)

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Propeller and Adapter, GWS 6x3 HD (GW/EP6030) and 2mm Adapter (EFLM1927)

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LiPo battery, 320-550 mAh 7.4V 20C Discharge (HP-G325-550-2S)

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Required Building Supplies and Tools

Main Wheels, 1 1/4 in. dia. (DUB125MW)

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Tail Wheel, 3/8 in. dia. (DUB38MTW)

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CA glue, medium, 1/2 oz (PAAPT03)

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CA glue, thin, 1/4 oz (PAAPT10)

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CA glue applicator tips (PAAPT21)

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CA glue accelerator (PAAPT15)

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Hobby knife with #11 blades (TE01-013)

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Sanding block with 120, 240 grit paper

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Covering iron and heat gun

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Needle nose pliers, small

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Clear tape, 1/2 in. (DUB916)

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Velcro for mounting battery (PKZ1039)

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Masking tape (low-tack blue painters’ tape)

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AeroLITE

covering film

Optional Building Supplies and Tools

2 - 1/8 in. drill bits (for part alignment)

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2 - 1/16 in. drill bits (for part alignment)

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Balsa filler (HCAR3401)

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Modeling clay (ballast)

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CA glue de-bonder (PAAPT16)

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Clear lacquer-based sealant (DEFT)

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Lacquer-based paint (Design Master®)

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Balsa filler

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Low Tack Painters “Blue” Masking Tape

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Covering Film Requirements

While any high-quality covering film may be used to finish this model, superior results will be achieved by using genuine AeroFILMTM brand covering film, available exclusively from Stevens AeroModel. The lower working temperature and light weight of AeroLITETM are especially desirable for this type of model.

AeroLITETM is 1/3 the weight of typical model covering films, and will present a significant weight savings when applied to this model.

1 - Roll AeroLITETM or AeroFILM

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1 - Roll AeroTRIMTM in contrasting color (suggested)

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Sealing Bare Wood

While not required, it is suggested that a high-quality clear lacquer be used to protect and seal any unfinished wood. One single light coat of clear lacquer should be sufficient to protect any painted or bare spots on the model from moisture, without adding significantly to the model’s final flying weight.

Many parts of this model may be colored using a lacquer-based spray paint. Listed below are some of the products we have used on our models. Please feel free to use whatever products you prefer.

DEFT clear lacquer-based sealant (available at most hardware stores)

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Design Master Color Tool, lacquer-based spray paint (available at most arts and crafts stores)

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Page 5

Sheet Wood Inventory (1 of 2)

Build Instructions

Page 6

Sheet Wood Inventory (1 of 2)

Build Instructions

Page 7

Build Instructions

General Assembly Instructions

Thank you for purchasing the Pober Pixie (360) from Stevens AeroModel.

This model has been developed and manufactured using state-of-the-art CAD/CAM systems. Our kits feature a unique interlocking construction process, that when compared to traditional building methods, saves countless hours of measuring, cutting, sanding, and fitting. We are certain that you’ll find our kit to offer a truly exceptional build experience.

As this kit is recommended for the novice model builder and pilot, we invite beginners who have purchased this kit to seek the help of an experienced builder and pilot. If at any time during the assembly of this kit, should you run across a term or technique that is foreign to you, please don’t hesitate to contact our staff with your questions.

IMPORTANT!

Please READ and RE-READ these build instructions along with any other included documentation prior to starting your build and/or contacting our staff for builder support.

Pre-Sanding

DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. Prior to removing any parts from the laser-cut sheet wood, use a sanding block loaded with 250 - 400 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the back side of each wood sheet. This step removes any residue produced as a result of the laser cutting process. We have found that most stock wood sizes run several thousandths of an inch oversized. This step also slightly reduces the thickness of each sheet of wood. Leave all parts in the sheet wood until required for assembly.

Protecting Your Work Surface

Use the poly tube that this kit was shipped in as a non-stick barrier between your work surface and the product assembly.

Bonding the Assembly

This product’s tabs and notches interlocks like a 3D puzzle. We strongly suggest that when fitting parts, you dry fit (use no glue) the parts together first. It is advised to work 1 - 2 steps ahead in the instructions, using this dry-fit technique. This allows the opportunity to inspect the fit and location of assembled components, and shows the benefits of our construction technique. As each successive part is added, it contributes to pulling the entire assembly square. Once you arrive at the end of a major assembly sequence, square your work on a flat work surface and bond the dry fit joints with glue. Using the dry-fit process, you’ll be able to recover from a minor build mistake and will ultimately end up with a square and true assembly.

Unless otherwise noted in the instructions, we find it easier to “tack glue” parts (temporarily bonding parts in assemblies, using a small dot of glue). When using medium CA glue, apply with a fine-tip CA glue applicator. Never bond painted or covered assemblies with thin CA, as it can destroy the finish of a beautifully prepared model.

Never Force the Fit!

This is a precision laser-cut kit. Our lasers cut to within 5 thousandths of an inch in accuracy. Yet the wood stock supplied to us by the mill may vary in thickness by up to 20 thousandths. This variance in the wood stock can cause some tabs and notches to fit very tightly. With this in mind, consider lightly sanding or lightly pinching a tight-fitting tab, rather than forcing the parts together. You will break fewer parts in assembly, and end up with a square and true airframe.

Manual Updates

Please check our website for updates to these instructions prior to commencing the build. To obtain downloads and updates to this model aircraft kit, please visit the product page at stevensaero.com

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Build Instructions

Fuselage

Note: If you will be using HS-55 or similar servos, the openings in F1 will need to be enlarged prior to construction. The proper size opening is indicated by the dashed cut-line around the existing opening in F1. If using HS-35 or HS-40 servos, no alteration to F1 will be required.

Fuselage parts are designated with an “F” followed by a numeric. Parts have been numbered so that the fuselage assembly and required parts follows in numeric order from F1 to F52.

The assembly is a traditional central crutch with sheet sides and shape stringers. Many of the formers will need to be installed in a forward and top orientation. Unless otherwise specified, formers should

be installed with the etched part number facing the front of the assembly and any top or bottom designations followed.

Dry fit the majority of this fuselage assembly together only gluing at the final instructional steps. When parts cannot easily be retained with friction, use a single small drop of medium CA glue applied through a CA glue applicator tip to “tack glue” the part in place. Should you commit an error in assembly it will be easier to recover from the mistake and remove or correct the part fit in error if you do not slather the assembly in glue after each step! Further, this method of assembly will allow our interlocking design to do it’s job as each successive part installed within the fuselage will help pull the entire structure square and true.

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1. Lay ply part F1 on the table with the etched “Top” side down. Fit ply part F2 to the slots in F1 as indicated in photo #1.

2. Assemble former F3 from parts F3a and F3b. Bond with thin CA.

3. Slide the narrow rear portion of F1 through the opening above F3b.

4. Fit the tab in F3 into the slot in F1. Note: The slot is oversized. F3 should be positioned in the forward portion of the slot, leaving room in the rear portion of the slot for parts to be installed at a later step. Do not bond.

5. Fit and tack glue the ply side rails F4 to the slots at the bottom of F3. Note: The slot is oversized. Position F4 in the upper portion of the slot, leaving the lower portion of the slot open to receive parts in a later step. Tack glue only. If you make a mistake in positioning this part, you will want to be able to re-position it without having to deal with removing a lot of glue! The other end of both parts F4 will remain free of the main structure for now.

6. Fit and tack glue ply former F5 to the forward ends of both F4‘s. Do not bond F5 to any other part at this time. As in the previous step, the slots are oversized. Fit parts F4 into the upper half of these slots, leaving the lower portion of the slot open to receive F6 in the next step. Tack glue only.

7. Fit parts F6 into the lower portion of the slots in F5, which are also occupied by parts F4. The arrows on both F6’s should point towards F5 and the front of the assembly. Tack glue both F6’s to the F4 that they are mated with.

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Build Instructions

Step 1

Front

Step 2

F3b

Bottom

F3a

Bottom View

Step 5

Step 5 Cont.

Bottom View

Leave bottom of slots open

Back

Step 3

Front

Top

Top Vi ew

Step 6

Bottom View

Step 4 Step 7

Leave back of slot open

Bottom View

Leave bottom of slots open

Bottom View

Front

Back

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Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

□

□□

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8. Fit two F7’s to the lower portion of the slots in F3, also occupied by parts F4. The arrows on both F7’s will point forward, toward the parts F6 and the front of the assembly. Note: There will be a 1/16 in. gap between parts F6 and parts F7, which will receive a strut mount tube at a later step. Handle the assembly carefully. The F4, F5, F7 part of the assembly will be secured during the next two steps.

9. Fit and tack glue fuselage side F8 to the right central crutch assembly, engaging the tabs in F1, F2, F3, F5, and the F4/F6/F7 assembly into the appropriate slots in F8. Note: The tabs on F2, F3, and F5 will fit in recesses along the edges of F8.

10. Repeat process in step 9 to fit and tack glue fuselage side F9 to the left fuselage assembly.

11. Fit F11 to the fuselage assembly, fit and tack glue F10 to the tabs on the forward portion of F1. The recesses in the rear edge of F10 will trap F2 between F10 and F8. The lower tab on F2 will occupy an oversized recess in F10, which will also receive the tab on F11 in the next step.

12. Fit the tab on on end of F11 to the slot in F10, which is also occupied by the tab in F2.

13. Fit and tack glue F12 to the left side of the assembly, engaging the tabs on F1, and trapping the tabs of F2, F5, and F11 between F12 and F9.

Check for proper square of the assembly then bond all mating surfaces with CA glue.

14. Fit and bond part F13 to the bottom of the forward part of the fuselage assembly, engaging the tabs on each side to the slots in F10 and F12.

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Build Instructions

Step 8

Step 8 Cont.

Bottom View

Front

1/16 in. gap

Step 11

Trapped

tabs

Step 12

F10

Right

Ta bs

F10

F11

Left

Front

Step 9

Right

Recesses

Left

Front

Step 13

Trapped

Step 10 Step 14

Front

Right

Left

Bottom View

F12

tabs

F13

F10

Page 12

Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

□

□□

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15. Fit and bond former F14 to the tabs on the front of the fuselage assembly. Orient the former with the edge marked “Top” toward the top of the assembly. Note: The tabs will extend beyond the face of F14 by 1/16 in., to receive F15 in the next step.

16. Fit former F15 to the tabs extending beyond the face of F14. Orient the former so that the edge marked “top” is toward the top of the assembly. Wick thin CA around the edges of F15 and the tab openings to bond.

17. Coat the back side of part F16 with thick CA. Position F16 over F12. The arrows in the corner of F16 will point up and forward. The forward edge of F16 will fit flush against former F14. The top and bottom edges will align flush with the top and bottom edges of F12.

18. Repeat step 17 to install F17 on the other side of the fuselage.

19. Fit and bond the bottom forward stringers F18 and F19 to the slots in F11, F13, and F14.

20. Fit former F20 to the slots in F1, mid-way between formers F14/15 and F3, and the slots along the upper edge of the fuselage sides. Note: The slots in F1 and the fuselage sides are oversized. Position F20 in the forward portion of the slots, leaving the rear portion of the slots open to accept parts F21 and F22 in the following steps. Do Not Bond!

21. Fit ply former F21 into the same slots as, and immediately behind, F20. Do Not Bond.

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Build Instructions

Step 15

Step 16

F14

Top

F15

Top

Step 19

Step 20

F14

F15

F11

F18

Bottom View

F19

F13

F14

F20

Top Vi ew

Step 17

Align Flush

Left

F16

Step 20 Cont.

Step 18 Step 21

Align

F17

Flush

Right

F20

Back View

F20

F21

Back

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Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

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22. Fit former F22 to the same slots occupied by formers F20 and F21. Ensure all formers are seated properly, then wick thin CA around all mating surfaces to permanently bond them in place. Ensure that the pocket thus formed is not filled with glue.

23. Fit former F23 in the slot in F1 also occupied by, and immediately behind, former F3. Leave the rear portion of the slot open to receive former F24 in the next step. Do not bond.

24. Fit former F24 in the same slot occupied by, and immediately behind, formers F2 and F23. Tack glue if necessary to hold in place, but do not bond permanently until directed to do so in a later step.

25. Fit and tack glue former F25 to the tabs at the rear end of F1.

26. Assemble the fuselage side F26 by fitting and bonding F26b into F26a.

27. Fit F26 to the left assembly, engaging the tab on the side of F25, and capturing the tabs on F3. Tack glue with small drops of medium CA.

28. Fit and tack glue former F27 to the slots immediately behind the large opening in fuselage side F26.

29. Assemble the fuselage side F28 by fitting and bonding F28b into F28a.

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Build Instructions

Step 22

Step 23

Step 24

Step 25

Step 29

Step 28

Step 27

Step 26

F26a

Back View

F22

F23

F26

Left

F26b

Ta b

Captured

tabs

F27

F25

Right

F13

F26

F24

F25

F28a

F28b

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Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

□

□□

30. Fit F28 to the tabs on formers F25 and F27, and capturing the tabs on F3. Tack glue with medium CA.

31. Fit and tack glue former F29 to the next set of slots in the fuselage sides behind former F27.

32. Fit and tack glue the fuselage bottom F30 to the fuselage sides and former F27.

33. Pinch the rear portion of the fuselage sides together and bond to the fuselage bottom F30. Turn fuselage right-side-up, square on a flat surface, and bond all mating surfaces in the aft fuselage with thin CA. Bond formers F3, F23, and F24 together by wicking thin CA around the edges. Ensure that the pocket thus formed is not filled with glue.

34. Fit the stabilizer mount F31 to the notches in the top rear of the fuselage sides, immediately behind former F29. Pinch the fuselage sides together and bond with thin CA.

35. Fit and bond the central stringer F32 to the notches in formers F24, F25, F27, and F29. The arrow at one end of F32 will point toward the front of the assembly.

36. From the provided 3/16 in. square balsa strip stock, locate the softest piece and cut in half. Now fit the half length of stock in the notches in the corners of the fuselage formers from F3 to F29. align the aft end of the stringer with the aft face of former F29. Mark and trim the stringer flush with the forward face of former F3. Bond in place with thin CA.

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Build Instructions

Step 30

Step 31

Step 32

Step 33

Step 36 cont.

Step 36

Step 35

Step 34

F25

Captured

tabs

F29

F27

F28

Top View

F31

F32

Bottom View

F30

Bottom View

F24

F25

F27

F29

3/16 in. sq.

stringer

F30

Trim

Page 18

Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

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37. Repeat “□□”step 36 to install the second stringer on the other side of the formers.

38. Turn the fuselage over and fit/bond the bottom stringers F33 and F34 to the slots in former F3 and the fuselage bottom F30.

39. Install the pushrod guides at this time. Slide one 12 in. length of the yellow .070 in. nylon tube through the opening in the left fuselage side. Continue pushing the tube through the hole on the left side of former F27, then through the hole on the left side of F3b. Allow the tube to extend beyond F3 about 1/8 in. Bond tube to the formers and fuselage side with medium CA. Repeat this process to install the pushrod tube on the right side of the fuselage.

40. Using a fresh sharp razor blade or hobby knife, carefully trim and sand the tube at the exit slot, flush with the fuselage side. If necessary, sand the end of the tube until it lies flush with the fuselage side.

41. Fit and bond the side stringers F35 and F36 one each to right and left sides of the fuselage. The stringers will tab into the central fuselage sides, tab into the slot on either side of the upright in the rear fuselage side, and finally tab in the rear fuselage in the vicinity of former F27. The aft end of the stringers will lie just underneath, but not blocking, the exit slot for the pushrod tubes. (second photo series continued on page 21)

Tip: Lightly sand the fuselage sides prior to installing F35 and F36.

Page 19

Step 37

Step 38

Step 39

Step 39 cont.

Step 41

Step 40 cont.

Step 40

Step 39 cont.

F34

Build Instructions

3/16 in. sq.

stringer

F3b

Bottom View

F33

Bottom View

Sand

smooth.

F35/36

F27

Page 20

Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

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42. Motor Mount: Fit ply part F37 to right side of ply motor mount F38.

43. Fit ply part F39 to the left side of F38.

44. Turn assembly up-side-down and fit ply part F40 to the bottom of the assembly. Square the assembly on a flat surface and bond all mating surfaces with medium CA, building up a small fillet of glue along each inside seam.

45. Fit and bond the completed motor mount to the slots in formers F14/F15.

46. Carefully slide former F41 over the tabs at the front of the motor mount assembly. Slide F41 all the way back, allowing the tabs to protrude from the front face of F41.

47. In the same careful manner, slide F42 over the tabs extending out from the face of F41. Slide F42 all the way back against F41.

48. Slide F43 over the tabs, pressing it against F42. The tabs will still protrude beyond the face of F43 by about 1/16 in.

Page 21

Step 41 cont.

Step 42

Step 43

Step 44

Step 48

Step 47

Step 46

Step 45

Right

Build Instructions

F14

Top

F15

Front

F38

Left

F41

F37

Right

F37

Front

F39

Bottom View

F40

F38

F39

Left

F37

F42

F43

F11

Page 22

Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

□

□□

□

49. Fit part F44 to the tabs protruding from the face of F43. Bond F41, F42, F43, and F44 together by wicking thin CA around the edges of all four parts, at the tab/slot locations, and the mating surfaces where the motor mount contacts F41.

50. Coat the back of part F45 with thick CA, and position it over the face of part F44 with the edge marked “Top” upper most, aligning the outer edges of of F45 with the outer edges of F44.

51. Nose Sheeting: Moisten one side of F46 with glass cleaner and allow to soak in for a minute or two. This will allow the sheeting to bend around the tight curves of the nose.

52. Fit F46 - moist side out - between formers F-14 and the former group F20/21/22. The slots in F46 will engage the tabs on F14 and F20. Carefully bend the edges of F46 around the outer edges of the formers. Hold F46 in position with low tack masking tape.

53. Repeat steps 51 and 52 to install nose sheeting F47, fitting the notches in F47 to the tabs in formers F15 and F41.

When F46 and F47 are completely dry, tack glue them in position, then remove the tape. Final bond F46 and F47 to the formers and the fuselage sides with thin CA. Ensure the aft edge of F46 is bonded to former F22, but do not fill the dashed, etched lines with glue. This area must be cut away at a later step to allow the cabane struts to be inserted in the pocket underneath.

54. Moisten the etched side of F48 with glass cleaner and allow to soak for a minute or two. Note that the upper left corner of F48 is marked with two arrows. These arrows indicate the upper and forward edges of the sheet.

□

55. Position F48 on the left side of the nose, between formers F15 and F42, flush with the edge of nose sheeting part F47, with the arrows pointing up and forward. Tack glue the edge of F48 to the edge of F47.

Page 23

Build Instructions

Step 49

Step 50

Step 51

Step 52

Step 55

Step 54

Step 53 cont.

Step 53

F44

F45

F41

F47

F15

F47

Top

F14

F20/21/22

F48

F46

Forward

Front

Tack Glue

F46

F48

Page 24

Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

□

56. Carefully bend F48 around the edge of the formers, tack gluing it in place. When F48 is completely dry, final bond to F47 and formers F41 and F15 with thin CA.

Repeat this process to install F49 on the right side of the nose.

57. Repeat the general method given in steps 51 and 52 to install the bottom nose sheeting F50 between side sheeting F48 and F49. The slot in the front of F50 will engage the tab on former F41. The rear edge of F50 will contact former F15 only at the outer edges. The central portion of the rear edge will float free, creating the scale cowl opening found here on the full scale plane.

58. Using four of the #0 x 3/16 in. screws supplied in your kit to screw the ply grille F51 to the front of F44, within the opening in F45.

59. Fit and bond the cockpit floor F52 between the fuselage sides within the cockpit area.

60. Using a sanding block loaded with 200/600 grit sandpaper, round the edges of the nose area.

61. Bevel the sides of the stringers along the upper, rear fuselage to match the angle of the sides of former F3.

62. Sand the fuselage cheeks to flow into the upper nose sheeting above, and taper the lower portion to meet the lower edge of the fuselage sides.

Page 25

Build Instructions

Step 56

Step 57

Step 57 cont.

Step 58

Step 61

Step 60

Step 59

Step 62

Bond order given 1, 2, and 3

Bottom View

F48

F50

F49

Opening

F52

Round

F49

F50

F51

F45

Page 26

Fuselage Cont.

Build Instructions

□

63. Using a sharp hobby knife, open the scored area at the rear edge of nose sheeting F26, to expose the pocket underneath. This pocket will receive the forward cabane strut in a later step.

64. Hatch: Fit and bond Ha2 to the front edge of Ha1.

65. Fit and bond Ha3 to the rear edge of Ha1.

66. Fit and bond Ha4 to the slots in in one side of Ha1, Ha2, and Ha3.

67. Fit and bond Ha5 to the other set of slots in Ha1, Ha2, and Ha3.

68. Fit backing plate Ha6 to the edge of Ha1, flush against the side of Ha4, between Ha2 and Ha3. Wick thin CA around all the edges to bond.

69. Fit and bond the other backing plate Ha7 on the other edge of Ha1, flush against the side of Ha5, and between Ha2 and Ha3.

70. Fit and bond the hatch sheeting Ha8 to parts Ha4 and Ha5.

Page 27

Build Instructions

Step 63

Step 64

Step 65

Step 66

Step 70

Step 69

Step 68

Step 67

Ha4

Open slot

F26

Ha2

Ha5

Ha1

Ha6 over Ha1

Ha6

Ha1

Right

Ha1

Ha3

Back

Ha4

Ha2

Ha3

Left

Front

Ha7 over Ha1

Ha7

Ha8

Page 28

Fuselage

Build Instructions

□

71. Bevel the edges of Ha6 and Ha7 to match the angle along the edge of Ha2 and Ha3.

Lightly sand the completed fuselage and hatch. Set aside until Final Assembly section.

Tail Surfaces

□

72. Assemble the horizontal stabilizer over the Detail Sheet plan from parts H1 through H5. Bond with thin CA.

73. Assemble the elevator halves over the Detail Sheet plan from parts E1 through E5. Bond with thin CA.

74. Join the elevator halves by fitting them to the hardwood elevator joiner E6. Bond with medium CA.

75. Follow the “Tape Hinge Diagram” on the Detail Sheet and sand the bottom of the the leading edge of the elevator to a 45 degree angle

76. Assemble and bond the vertical stabilizer over the plan on the Detail Sheet from parts V1 through V5.

77. Assemble the rudder over the plan on the Detail Sheet from parts R1 through R4, and bond with thin CA.

78. Using a scrap length of 1/32 in. wire to scrape out the etched “L” shaped area at the base of the rudder. Remove enough material that the 1/32 in. wire will fit flush within the recess.

Page 29

Build Instructions

Step 71

Step 72

Step 73

Step 74

Step 78

Step 77

Step 76

Step 75

Bevel this edge

45 Deg.

R2 R3

Scrape out

Page 30

Tail Surfaces Cont.

Build Instructions

□

Details

□

79. Cut a 2-1/2 in. length of 1/32 wire. Follow the “Tail Gear Detail” on the Detail Sheet to bend the tail wheel wire.

80. Trim and fit tail wheel wire to nest within the “L” shaped groove at the bottom of the rudder. The wire should fit completely within the groove. Bond the wire in place with medium CA.

81. Coat the back of the ply tail wheel support R5 with thick CA. Position R5 over the base of the left side of the rudder, covering the tail wheel wire. Press into place, aligning the leading and lower edges with the edges of the rudder.

82. Turn the rudder over. Coat the back of the ply tail wheel support R6 with thick CA. Position R6 over the base of the rudder and press into place, aligning the bottom and rear edges with the edges of the rudder. Note that there will be a gap between the leading edge of the rudder and the leading edge of R6. This is to allow the beveling of the leading edge in the next step.

83. Follow the “Tape Hinge Diagram” on the Detail Sheet and bevel the right side of the leading edge at a 45 degree angle.

Set the tail surfaces aside until the Final Assembly section.

84. Landing Gear: Follow the “Landing Gear Diagram” on the Detail Sheet and bend the landing gear from the 1 in. length of 1/16 in. wire supplied in your kit. Trim off the excess wire and reserve for the next step.

□

85. Cut the scrap wire from the landing gear into two lengths about 1 in. long. These will be used to jig the wheel pants together in the following steps.

Page 31

Build Instructions

Step 79

Step 79 cont.

Step 80

Step 81

Step 85

Step 84

Step 83

Step 82

Left

Note space

45 Deg.

Right

~ 1 in. length

Page 32

Details Cont.

Build Instructions

□□

□□

□□

86. Wheel pants: Lay out the parts for the right wheel pant - ply parts 1 and 2, and balsa parts 3 through eight - on the table with the etch numbers facing up. The etched arrows on parts 3 through 8 indicate the front of the wheel pant and should all be pointing in the same direction.

87. Position part 2 over part 1, aligning the edges carefully, and wick thin CA around the edges to bond.

88. Fit parts 1 and 2 in the opening in part 3, with the etched sides facing up, and bond with medium CA.

89. Slip the two scrap pieces of wire from step 85 into the two holes in part 3. These will be used as alignment jigs for the rest of the wheel pant parts.

90. Slide part 4 down the wires and on top of part 3. Do not bond at this time.

91. Slide the remaining parts 5 through 8, in order, onto the wires. Do not bond at this time.

92. Check alignment of assembly, then tack glue at the top, rear, and lower front of the parts with small drops of medium CA. Remove the wires, and final bond the assembly by wicking thin CA all around the edges of each part.

93. Sand the completed wheel pant to a tear drop shape as viewed from above. Round off the rest of the wheel pant to an ellipsoid shape as viewed from the front.

Repeat steps 86 through 93 to build the left wheel pant, using ply parts A and B, and balsa parts C through H. Ensure that you are building a mirror image of the right wheel pant.

Set finished wheel pants aside until the Final Assembly section.

Page 33

Build Instructions

Step 86

Step 87

Step 88

Step 89

Step 93

Step 92

Step 91

Step 90

Tack Glue

Page 34

Details Cont.

Build Instructions

□

□□

□

94. Headrest: Bond two HR1 together with a slow set CA glue. align edges carefully.

95. Stand the HR1 assembly up on the table, with the etched letters right-side-up. One at a time, align an HR2 on each side of the assembly, aligning the front and bottom edges of the HR2’s with the front and bottom edges of the HR1’s. Bond by wicking thin CA around the edges of the HR2’s

96. Repeat step 95 to align and bond two HR3’s, one on each side, to the headrest assembly.

97. Bond HR4 to the front of the assembly, with the bottom edge flush with the bottom of the assembly.

98. Sand the headrest to a tapered shape as viewed from above, rounding the sides to match the profile of HR4. Leave the bottom flat. Slightly round HR4, to give it the look of a cushion for the pilots head.

Set the finished headrest aside until the “Final Assembly” section.

Wing

Wing parts are designated with an “W” followed by a numeric. Parts have been numbered so that the Wing assembly and required parts follows in numeric order from W1 to W31.

□

99. Assembly the main spar W1 from parts W1a and W1b, and bond with medium CA glue.

100. Position the ply sub-spar W2 as shown across the center section of the spar. Do not bond.

Page 35

Step 94

Step 95

Step 96

Step 97

Step 100

Step 99

Step 98 cont.

Step 98

HR1

Build Instructions

HR1

HR2

HR3

W1b

HR3

W1a

Do not glue

Page 36

Wing Cont.

Build Instructions

□

101. Fit ribs W3 into the slots in spar W1 on either side of the center slot in the spar, trapping sub-spar W2 as you do so. Tack glue ribs W3 to the main spar, but not to the sub-spar. The sub-spar W2 must remain free so that is final alignment can take place after the next set of ribs out from the W3’s are installed.

102. Fit and tack glue rear spar W4 to the notches in the rear portion of ribs W3.

103. Fit and tack glue trailing edge W5 behind W4 and between ribs W3. Note that W5 will not completely fill the notch under ribs W3. This space will later be filled by the outer trailing edges in a later step.

104. Fit and tack glue leading edge web W6 to the notches under the front portion of ribs W3.

105. Laminate the center rib by sandwiching rib W7 between two ribs W8. Align carefully, then wick thin CA around the edges of the ribs to bond.

106. Fit the center rib assembly to the notches in the main spar W1, W4, W5, and W6

Hold the center section don on a flat surface and bond al mating surfaces together with thin CA. Caution! Do not bond the sub-spar W2 to the assembly at this time.

107. Fit the spar cap W9 into the notches in the center rib, and ribs W3. Align the ends of the spar cap so that they fall in the middle of the notch in Rib W3, allowing space for the outer spar caps to rest in the same notch at a later step. Bond with thin CA.

108. Cut a length of the 3/16 in. square strip stock supplied in your kit to match the width of the leading edge web W6. Fit the strip stock to the notches in the front of the center rib, and ribs W3. Align the ends of this leading edge piece to fall in the middle of the notch in rib W3, allowing space for the outer leading edges to fit in the same notch at a later step. See assembly photo on next page.

Page 37

Step 101

Step 102

Step 103

Step 104

Step 108

Step 107

Step 106

Step 105

Build Instructions

Tack

glue

Do not

bond!

W8/7/8

Centered

Flush with end of W6

Page 38

Wing Cont.

Build Instructions

□

□□

109. Locate the center section sheeting W10. Note that one side is etched with lines. These will help the wood bend around the curve of the leading edge. Note also that one edge is marked “Leading Edge” - this edge will lie forward, closest to the leading edge, when installed. Lay W10 on the table etched side down, and moisten the outside with glass cleaner, allowing it to soak in for a minute or two.

110. Align W10 over the center rib and ribs W3, with the etched side down, and the un-etched edge flush against the par cap. Tack glue W10 to the spar cap.

111. Bend W10 over the forward portion of the ribs until the edge marked “Leading Edge” contacts the 3/16 in. square leading edge piece installed in step 108. Tack glue to the leading edge and the ribs. When completely dry, final bond by wicking thin CA all around the edges.

112. Hold the left spar flat against the table. Fit and bond the rear spar W11 to the notch shared by the center section rear spar in ribs W3.

113. Assemble the trailing edge by fitting W12a to W12b and bonding with thin CA.

114. While holding the left side of the wing flat on the table, fit the trailing edge to the notch under the rear portion of ribs W3, and bond with medium CA.

115. Fit rib W13 to the set of notches all the way out on the tip of the spars W1 and W11, and to the end of the trailing edge W12. Tack glue rib W13 with small drops of medium CA.

Page 39

Step 108 cont.

Step 109

Step 110

Step 111

Step 115

Step 114

Step 113

Step 112

Bottom View

Bond

Flush with end of W6

Build Instructions

W1a

W11

Etched

side down

W10

Leading Edge

Tack Glue

W10

W12b

W11

Bond with

medium CA

W12

Tack glue

W12

W10

W11

W13

Page 40

Wing Cont.

Build Instructions

□□

116. Fit rib W14 to the main spar W1, rear spar W11, and trailing edge W12, in the set of notches immediately to the outside of rib W3. Proceeding outwards, fit ribs W15, W16, and W17.

Check alignment of sub-spar W2 at this time. The end of the spar should butt up against rib W14. Align W2 and final bond with thin CA.

117. Assemble rib W18 by laminating ribs W18a, W18b, and W18c together, with rib W18b in the middle. Align carefully, and bond by wicking thin CA around the edges of the ribs.

118. Fit rib W18 to the large set of notches in the spars and trailing edge, immediately outboard of rib W17.

119. Fit ribs W19 and W20 to the remaining notches between ribs W18 and W13.

120. Fit the leading edge web W21 to the front of the ribs. The arrow etched on W21 indicates the end that will fit to rib W3. Tack glue W21 to the front of the ribs with small drops of medium CA.

121. Fit a strip of the 3/16 in. stock on top of the leading edge web W21, butting up against the fronts of the ribs. Fit the leading edge stock into the notch in the front of rib W3 shared by the center section leading edge.

122. Fit the leading edge into the notch at the front of rib W13. using a single edge razor blade, or a sharp hobby knife, mark and trim the leading edge flush with the outer face of rib W13. Tack glue the leading edge to the ribs and W21 with medium CA.

123. Fit diagonal brace W22 between ribs W3 and W14, and spar W1 and the leading edge assembly. The rear of W22 will fit in the corner created by the main spar and rib W3. The front of W22 will fit in the tiny notch in the leading edge web next to rib W14. Tack glue with medium CA.

Page 41

Step 116

Step 117

Step 118

Step 119

Step 123

Step 122

Step 121

Step 120

W18a

W18b

W14

Align W2

W18c

Build Instructions

W17

W16

W15

W21

Fit in notch

W17

W18

W19

W13

W14

W22

W20

Page 42

Wing Cont.

Build Instructions

□□

□□

124. Proceeding outward from rib W14, install diagonal braces W23 through W27 between the ribs, spar, and leading edges in the same manner as W22. The last two spaces between ribs W19, W20, and W13 are left empty.

Hold the wing on a flat surface, and final bond the wing assembly by wicking thin CA around all the mating surfaces. Where the leading edge pieces join rib W3, build up a small fillet of medium CA to strengthen this joint.

125. Assemble the wing tip from parts W28a(L) and W28b(L), and bond with thin CA.

126. Fit the rear portion of the wingtip W28 to rib W13, engaging the tab on the tip of the rear spar W11 with the slot in the rear portion of the wing tip. Tack glue with medium CA.

127. Bend the wing tip over the rib, fitting the tab at the tip of the main spar to the slot in the wing tip, and aligning the front of the wing tip with the approximate center of the leading edge. Bond with thin CA.

128. Fit and bond the spar cap W29 above the main spar W1, in the notches in each rib. At rib W3, the W29 will share the notch with the center section spar cap. The outer end of the spar cap will rest in the notch in the wingtip W28.

129. Fit and bond the rear turbulator spar W30 to the notches in the ribs just in front of the main spar. The inner end of the turbulator spar will rest in the notch in the center section sheeting, and the outer end in the notch in the wing tip W28.

130. Fit and bond the front turbulator spar W30 to the notches in the ribs just in front of the rear turbulator spar. The inner end of the turbulator spar will rest in the notch in the center section sheeting, and the outer end in the notch in the wing tip W28.

131. Repeat steps 112 through 130 to build the right wing half.

Set the completed wing aside until the Final Assembly section.

Page 43

Step 124

Step 125

Step 126

Step 127

Step 131

Step 130

Step 129

Step 128

W24

Build Instructions

W27

W26

W25

W23

W28b(L)

Tack glue

W29

W28a(L)

W30

W28

W31

W28

Page 44

Final Assembly

Build Instructions

□

132. Cover your model with a light weight iron on material. We suggest Stevens AeroModel AeroLite. The fuselage sides, top, and bottom can be covered with one piece of material each. The nose section is best tackled in several sections : The upper nose in one piece, the sides of the cowl in one piece each, the bottom of the cowl with one piece, and finally the front of the cowl with one piece of material.

The wing should be covered in several separate pieces. The entire bottom of the wing can be covered in one piece of material, or each panel and wing tip can be covered with a separate piece of material. The top of the wing should be covered with 3 separate pieces of material as follows: One piece for the center section between ribs W3, one piece each for the left and right wing panels.

The details - wheel pants, fairings, struts, headrest, etc. - can be painted or covered to match your chosen scheme.

133. Electronics: Attach the mounting plate to the back of the recommended motor [SUPA1510/15].

134. Temporarily connect the motor to the ESC and receiver. Power up and bind your receiver to the transmitter, and check the rotation of the motor. It should be counter clockwise as viewed from the front. If it is not, simply reverse any two of the three wires connecting the motor to the ESC. When you are satisfied that the motor is turning the correct direction, power down and disconnect the receiver, but leave the ESC attached to the motor.

135. Feed the ESC and associated wiring through the opening in the motor mount, and into the radio compartment.

□

136. Glue one nylon washer over the hole on two of the tangs of the mounting plate - the two furthest from the wiring harness. Ensure that the holes are not blocked with glue. These will become the left-side tangs on the mount, and will thus angle the motor to the right the correct amount for controlled flight.

137. Mount the motor to the fuselage with four #2 x 1/4 in. screws. The wiring harness will lie on the right side of the motor, and the tangs with the washers attached will lie on the left side of the motor.

138. Mount the ply grille F51 to the cowl with four of the #0 x 3/16 screws supplied in your kit.

139. Hatch: Press a 3/16 in. x 1/16 in. neo-magnet into two holes diagonal from each other in the hatch area. Do not put magnets in all four holes! Secure magnets by wicking thin CA around them.

Page 45

Build Instructions

Step 132

Step 133

Step 134

Step 135

Step 139

Step 138

Step 137

Step 136

One

washer

each

Receiver

ESC

Motor

Magnets

Bottom View

Page 46

Final Assembly Cont.

Build Instructions

□

140. Check and re-check the polarity of the magnets in the fuselage, and press two magnets into the matching holes in the hatch, oriented so that they will attract the magnets in the fuselage. Make sure your hatch is oriented correctly as well. The hole in the bottom of the hatch is nearest the aft end of the hatch. Secure the magnets by wicking thin CA around them.

141. Remove the covering from around the slots for the wing strut mounts near the front of the hatch area sides, and in the middle of the sides. Fit a 1/14 in. x 1/16 in. aluminum tube in each of these slots. Secure the tubes by wicking medium CA around them. Ensure that nor

glue enters the tubes themselves.

142. Servos and Control Linkages: Remove the control arms from the recommended servos [Hi-Tec HS-35HB], and mount them as shown with the hardware supplied with the servos.

143. Make a “Z” bend in one end of each of the two .020 x 18 in. lengths of wire supplied in your kit.

144. Feed the straight end of these wires into the nylon pushrod guide tube within the radio compartment.

145. Open the covering over the exit slot in the side of the fuselage, and feed the wire out of this opening.

146. Remove three of the four arms on the servo control arms. Attach the “Z” bends on the pushrods to the control arms, and mount them to the servos as shown, with the arms extending outward perpendicular to the servos.

□

147. Cabane Struts: Locate the ply cabane strut parts CS1 and CS2. Paint them the desired color at this time.

Page 47

Build Instructions

Step 140

Step 141

Step 142

Step 143

Step 147

Step 146

Step 145

Step 144

Bottom View

Magnets

1/16 in x 1/4 in.

al. tubes

Bottom View

Exit slot

Bottom View

CS1

CS2

Page 48

Final Assembly Cont.

Build Instructions

□

148. Remove the covering over the slots in the fuselage deck just forward of the cockpit.

149. Fit CS1 into this slot, ensuring that it seats fully. Wick thin CA around the slot and CS1 to secure.

150. Follow the same procedure to open the slot just behind the cockpit and install CS2. Again, ensure that CS2 is seated completely within the slot. Bond with thin CA.

151. Assemble the wing mount by laminating CS3, CS4, and CS5 together, with CS3 in the middle. Align carefully, ensuring the slots in all three pieces line up correctly. Wick thin CA all around the edges to bond. Ensure that the recess in CS3 does not get filled with glue. Paint the desired color at this time.

152. Feed the mount through the openings in CS1 and CS2, and fit it to the top of the cabane struts from underneath. The numbered end of the wing mount should face forward. Bond with medium CA, building up a small fillet around the juncture of the mount and the cabane struts.

153. Assembly the cabane strut sides from parts CS6 through CS9 as shown. Bond with thin CA and paint.

154. Remove the covering over the openings on either side of the nose just ahead of the forward cabane strut CS1.

155. Fit the cabane strut side assemblies to CS1 and CS2, engaging the tabs on CS1/2 with the slots in the side assemblies. The forward, diagonal strut will fit into the openings in the fuselage decking forward of CS1. Bond with thin CA.

Page 49

Step 148

Step 149

Step 150

Step 151

Step 155

Step 154

Step 153

Step 152

CS1

Build Instructions

Slot

CS6

CS8

CS9

CS7

CS4

CS3

CS5

CS2

Page 50

Final Assembly Cont.

Build Instructions

□

156. Fit the wing mount key CS10 to the recess in the wing mount and bond with thin CA.

157. Windscreen: Fit the pre-cut acetate windscreen between the forward cabane struts. The three tabs on the acetate indicate the bottom edge of the windscreen. The two tabs on the sides will hook behind the cabane struts, with the center tab touching the fuselage deck. The paper has been left on the windscreen in the pictures for clarity, but should be removed before the windscreen is permanently fixed in place.

158. Mark the fuselage deck just behind where the tip of the center tab touches, even with the edge of the windscreen.

159. Temporarily remove the windscreen. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut a slot at the mark, angling forward to match the angle of the windscreen.

160. Remove the paper from the windscreen and reposition it, sliding the center tab into the slot that you cut in the decking until the bottom edge of the windscreen touches the deck. Use thinned canopy glue to secure the windscreen to the fuselage and cabane struts.

161. Pilot: Paint the pilot profile “P” as desire and fit/bond to the slot in the cockpit floor.

Page 51

Build Instructions

Step 155 cont.

Step 156

Step 157

Step 161

Step 160

Step 159

Step 158

Tabs/Slots

CS10

Pilot “P”

Page 52

Final Assembly Cont.

Build Instructions

□

162. Headrest: Position the headrest with the front flush with the after edge of the cockpit, and centered down the central stringer on the back deck. Bond by wicking medium CA around the edges of the headrest.

163. Tail Surfaces: Follow the Tape Hinge Diagram on the Detail Sheet to attach the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer, and the ruder to the vertical stabilizer with clear tape. Allow a t least 1/64 in. gap between the stabilizers and control surfaces. Ensure that the surfaces move freely with no binding. If they bind in any way, remove the tape and start over.

164. Remove the covering over the control horn lots on the right side of the rudder and the lower left side of the elevator. Fit and bond the rudder horn extending from the right side of the rudder. The elevator horn should extend from the lower left side of the elevator. Double check the position of the control horns before final bonding them in place.

165. Remove the covering over both sides of the slot in the center of the horizontal stabilizer. Fit the tab at the bottom of the vertical stabilizer through this slot until the surfaces are seated firmly against each other. The tab will extend below the horizontal stabilizer about 1/4 in.

166. Fit the tail group to the fuselage. The tab on the bottom of the vertical stabilizer will fit into the slot in F31. Position the stabilizing surfaces so that they are square to each other, and perpendicular to the sides and top of the fuselage. Bond by wicking medium CA around the seams between the stabilizers, and between the horizontal stabilizer and the fuselage.

167. Refer to the PushRod Detail on the Detail Sheet and make the final connections between the pushrods and the control horns on the rudder and elevator.

Page 53

Build Instructions

Step 162

Step 163

Step 163 cont.

Step 164

Step 167

Step 166

Step 165

Step 164 cont.

Bottom View

Lower Left

side of

elevator

Bottom View

Right side

of rudder

Page 54

Final Assembly Cont.

Build Instructions

□

168. Landing Gear: Fit the recommended tailwheel [DUB38MTW] to the tail wheel wire. Trim

the excess wire and either bend the wire up 90 degrees to retain the wheel, or use the wheel retainers supplied in the package.

169. Remove the covering over the landing gear slot just forward of the radio compartment on the bottom of the fuselage.

170. Fit pre bent landing gear (step 84) in the slot. Press ply part LG1 into the slot, ensuring that it is fully seated within the slot. bond by wicking thin CA around LG1 and the points where the wire exits the slot.

171. Use a small strip of clear tape to attach the landing gear fairing LG2 to the fuselage. The rear of LG2 should fall just in front of, and below, the rear wing strut mounting tube. The front portion should fall just below the front mount tube, covering the landing gear wire.

172. If you have covered LG2, open the holes near the base with a fine point soldering iron. Use a short length of 2 lb. test fishing line to secure the fairing to the wire. Tie the line to the front hole, pass the line snugly over the landing gear wire, and tie off to the rear hole. snip off the excess line, and apply a small drop of thin CA to each not. Ensure that you do not glue the wire to the fairing. This will allow the wire to flex without tearing out the fairing.

173. Use thin CA to glue two of the nylon washers supplied in your kit to each side of the wheels

- 4 total per wheel.

174. Use a 1/16 in drill bit to ream out the center hole in the wheel to fit the landing gear wire.

Page 55

Build Instructions

Step 168

Step 169

Step 170

Step 171

Step 174

Step 173

Step 172

Step 171 cont.

Do not block

Bottom View

Push all the way in

Bottom View

Holes

2 lb. test

ﬁshing line

2 washers

each side

Tape

1/16 in.

drill

Page 56

Final Assembly Cont.

Build Instructions

□

□□

175. Slide the wheel into the wheel pant. Carefully feed the wire landing gear through the hole in the slotted ply side of the wheel pant, through the wheel, and out the hole on the other side of the wheel pant.

176. Secure the wheel pant to the landing gear wire by using two of the #0 x 3/16 in. screws supplied in your kit to fasten the 1/16 in. ply retainer to the wheel pant, capturing the landing gear wire.

177. Struts: Use a scrap piece of .025 wire to scrape out the etched line between the tips of the struts and the holes drilled near each tip.

178. Make a 90 degree bend 1/16 in. from the end of a length of .025 wire.

179. Fit this bend into the hole near one end of a strut. The wire should lie completely within the slot that you scraped out. If it doesn’t, remove the wire and scrape out some more material until the wire lies flush within the slot. Bond the wire to the strut with a generous coat of medium CA.

180. Use a fine tipped pair of needle nose pliers to bend the wire 1/16 in. from the end of the strut. Refer to the Detail sheet for the proper angle an direction of the bend. Each strut is labelled “Front” or “Rear Strut” near the base of each strut. When installed, these etched marking should face upward, with the wires also lying on top of the struts.

181. Trim the wire 1/4 in from the bend.

Repeat steps 177 through 181 to make the wire fitting for the ends of all struts.

□

182. Remove the covering over the recess in ribs W18 for the strut anchors.

Page 57

Step 175

Step 176

Step 177

Step 178

Step 182

Step 181

Step 180

Step 179

Bottom View

Build Instructions

Bottom View

Page 58

Final Assembly Cont.

Build Instructions

□

CONGRATULATIONS! Your Stevens AeroModel Pober Pixie (360) is complete! Invite the neighbors over to admire it for a while, then proceed to the Setup and Pre-Flight sections to prepare your model for it’s fist flight.

183. Select a Delrin strut anchor, and fill the large hole in it with thick CA. Ensure that no glue enters the smaller hole! Slide the anchor into the slot in rib W18, squared end first, and further secure by wicking thin CA around it. Again, ensure that no glue enters the smaller hole. Repeat for the remaining three anchors.

184. Fit the wing to the Cabane struts, Keying CS10 into the slot in the center rib. Lay the model on the workbench, up-side-down. Orient the struts in their correct Front/Rear locations, with the etched “Front Strut”/”Rear Strut” at the base, near the fuselage, facing up in relation to the model. Slip the outboard wires into the nylon wing anchors first.

185. When the struts are anchored to the wing, slip the inboard ends into the mount tubes at the base of the fuselage. Turn the model right-side-up and finish mounting the wing by wrapping three #16 rubber bands - one at a time - around the front of the wing mount, over the wing, and around the rear of the wing mount.

186. Use a short length of Velcro to mount the receiver to the fuselage side within the radio compartment, next to the servos.

187. Affix another strip of Velcro to the bottom of F1, forward of the servos, to mount the battery.

188. Mount the recommended propellor adaptor and 6 x 3 prop to the motor shaft.

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Build Instructions

Step 183

Step 184

Step 185

Step 186

Step 188

Step 187

Bottom View

Do not

block hole

Velcro

Bottom View

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Build Instructions

Setup

DO NOT ATTEMPT FLIGHT IF THE WINGS ARE WARPED. Inspect the wings for any warps that may have occurred when covering the model, or while the model was in storage. Remove all warps before flight. Lack of aileron controls on this model will make flying with a warped wing difficult.

Rudder - Center the rudder. Then set the direction, rate of travel, and dampening (expo) of the control. The rudder servo should be controlled by the aileron channel on your radio, as the rudder on this model also controls the roll of the aircraft. Rudder should follow aileron stick travel, i.e., moving the aileron stick to the right should move the rudder to the right.

Elevator - Center the elevator. Then set the direction, rate of travel, and dampening (expo) of the control. The elevator will be controlled by the elevator channel on your radio. Moving the elevator stick back should move the elevator up. Moving the elevator stick forward should move the elevator.

The Pober Pixie (360) was designed to be a very sedate flyer. We set up our flight controls with fairly minimal throws. With the pushrods connected per the instructions in this manual, set the control throws as follows:

Rudder Travel

Rate +/- 30 degrees, 30% expo

Expo settings apply only to radios which feature exponential control.

Elevator Travel

Rate +/- 20 degrees, 30% expo

Pre-Flight

It is recommended that you have an experienced pilot assist you with pre-flighting your new model. Just like having someone proofread something you’ve written, having a second fresh set of eyes inspect your final product is often helpful in avoiding disaster.

While not a thorough pre-flight check, listed below are some of the major items that you should consider checking when developing your own pre-flight check list. Get in the habit of always pre-flighting your models before each and every flight.

Weight and Balance - Check the balance of your model. For proper performance, the model should balance at the main spar (approximately 1-5/8 in. aft of the wing leading edge). Mark the balance point on the underside of the wing, then use your right and left index fingers to suspend the model from below, at the marked balance points. Visualize a line running perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer and through the propeller shaft along the fuselage side, and compare this to the horizon. When properly balanced, this visualized line should appear to hang level with the horizon. If the nose or tail of the model hang down, move the battery forward and backward to make subtle balance changes, or add clay ballast to the nose or tail as required to obtain proper balance.

Check Weather - The first flight should be outdoors in zero wind conditions. The Pober Pixie 360 can be comfortably flown in winds up to 10 mph.

Inspect the Airframe - Always check for warps and obvious signs of wear or damage. Do not fly a warped or damaged model.

Inspect Control Surfaces - Always check control surfaces for center, proper direction of travel, rate of throw, secure pushrod connections, hinges, and receiver/servo mounting hardware.

Check Wing Attachment Points - Always make sure you inspect for damage and wear. Make sure that the wing and wing struts, if applicable, are properly attached.

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Build Instructions

Pre-Flight (continued)

Inspect Battery - Always use a freshly-charged battery. Never begin a flight with a partially-charged or damaged battery.

Clear Prop - Stay clear of the prop arc, when applying power to the model.

Range Check Radio - Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for performing a radio range check.

Check for Traffic - Proceed to the flight line (with your mentor/instructor if you are a novice pilot) and look

for other traffic. If the runway is clear, and no one is in the pattern to land, loudly announce your intentions to take off. Remember, all aircraft on the ground must yield the runway to those landing.

Go Flying - Point the model into the wind (if present) and steadily advance the throttle to full power. Use rudder input to correct track while on the ground. Within several feet, the model should be airborne. Fly the model to a comfortable “1 to 2 mistakes high altitude”, reduce throttle to stop the climb, then trim the model for straight and level flight at a comfortable cruise speed. The Pober Pixie 360 typically cruises at just over 1/2 throttle.

Setup for Landing - Clearly announce your intentions to land. Make all landings into the wind, using rudder and elevator controls. Crosswind landings should be avoided until you are comfortable with the model’s in-flight behavior.

Congratulations!

Once you’ve completed your first flights, you will have noticed that the Stevens AeroModel Pober Pixie is a very stable model airplane. When built straight, and trimmed for level flight, it should readily return to “wings level” from any attitude. We have found that this model captures the imagination of pilots both young and old. When flying, we never miss an opportunity to allow an on-looker to get a little “stick-time”.

If your first flight was a bit more exciting than you would have liked, and you are having problems with erratic flight performance, please, inspect your airframe and equipment for damage, improper installation, and/or twists and warps, check to make sure that the model is properly balanced, moving the C.G. forward slightly can tame control response. The most common mistake modelers make is to try and fly with a warped or twisted wing. Please make certain that your wings are straight and true, before you fly.

At Stevens AeroModel we are committed to improving your building and flying experience. We are constantly refining our processes, designs, and manuals to reflect customer feedback. You may correspond with the Stevens AeroModel staff at:

email: support@stevensaero.com Phone: 719-387-4187

Stevens Aero Model Pober Pixie 360 Build Instructions

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual