Steadicam M-1 Operator's Manual

A word from Garrett Brown 1-1
M-1 System Components 1-2
The Stage

Stage Components 2-1
Camera Installation 2-2
Camera Removal 2-3
Drive Mechanisms 2-4

The Post

Post Components 3-1
180° Post Reversal 3-2

The Gimbal

Gimbal Components 4-1
The Monitor Mount
Monitor Mount Components 5-1
Monitor Positioning 5-2

The Base and Battery Mount

Base and Battery Mount Components 6-1
Battery Positioning 6-2
Power Management and Electronics

Special Notes 7-1
Connector Pin Diagrams 7-2

Adjustments and Maintenance

Separating the Modular Components 8-1
Clamp Adjustments 8-2
Drive Knob Adjustments 8-3
Gimbal Disassembly and Cleaning 8-4
Gimbal Assembly 8-5

Lubrication and Exterior Cleaning 8-6

Accessories for the M-1 System 9-1
Contact Tiffen 9-2

Table of Contents

M-1 Operator’s Manual
Rev. A
p/n LIT-815000

STEADICAM® and Exovest® are trademarks of The Tiffen Company. Other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
All specifications stated within this manual are subject to change without notice.
© 2015 The Tiffen Company. Written by E. Barthelman.

Congratulations on your new M-1!

Dear Friends,

There have been three generations of Steadicam® operators since we began it all in 1976.
Thousands of us have graced tens of thousands of movies and shows with the unique visual
music of Steadicam—played worldwide on seven generations of Steadicam equipment.

Many of our innovations—think extendable monitor and battery, no-tools clamps and
integral super post—became industry must-haves, but our exclusive tilt-head and motorized
stage remain essential to the very highest standard of Steadicam precision.

And now my inventing colleagues at Tiffen have raised the bar once again and I'm proud to
report that nearly all aspects of modern operating—mechanical, electronic, artistic,
ergonomic and political—are augmented and advanced.

M-1 is for Modular—user-configurable, upgradable, swappable—with a host of superbly
engineered new features:

Ultra-rigid post, stage and base
Vernier-drive tilt-head
Super-precise removable gimbal
Indexed center post with custom hi-amp bayonet connectors
Quick-release camera plate system with patented safety latch
Monitor mounts instantly to any post
Super-adjustable monitor and battery pivots
3x true HD video lines and 10 hi-amp power ports
Industry-best level-keeping, hi-def and voltage options

In short, the M-1 is brilliant—rigid, precise, tool-free, super-adjustable and fast.
Above all, it is infinitely configurable and as close to future-proof as a rig can be.

Good luck with your new Steadicam M-1 and good shooting!
I think it's the best Steadicam ever... Where was this baby when I needed it?

Garrett Brown, Philadelphia 2015
www.garrettbrown.com

A word from Garrett Brown

1-1

The M-1 System Components

The Post

Modular ends make system maintenance and upgrades quick and painless

Carbon fiber posts are indexed to ensure exact alignment

The Stage

Quick release dovetail

Tilt-able to maintain dynamic balance

Camera power and video connections

The Gimbal

Removable handle for future upgrades

The Monitor Mount

Allows monitor to be mounted to either post and inverted

Monitor tilts at the center of gravity for angle adjustment

Modular rods extend for optimal viewing

The Base and Battery Mounts

Monitor power, accessory power and video connections

Battery mount rotates 180˚ to suit user preference

Modular rods extend to increase panning inertia

1-2

The Stage

Dovetail Plate

Maximum rigidity and mounting options

Index marks on side for repeatability

Clamp Lever

Safety latch design with drop-in loading
Adjustable tension without shims

Fore/Aft Drive Knob

Fine balance adjustment

Side/Side Drive Knob

Fine balance adjustment

Nose Box

Power and tally ports

Accessory Rod Mounts

For Tiffen accessories and custom applications
15mm by 60mm spacing

Tilt Stage

Dual cam levers to ensure rigidity
Downward tilt from 0°-15°

2-1

Components

Fore/Aft Drive Knob

Fine balance adjustment

adjustment

Side/Side Drive Knob

Fine balance adjustment

Rear Electronics

High-definition video connectors

Power ports

Backlit Bubble Level

High precision, spirit level

Tilt Drive Knob

Easily tilts the camera while the

rig is docked or while worn

Stage Connector

Modular mechanical and electronics junction

Indexed to ensure exact alignment with post

Safety Stops

Prevents unintended
camera removal

The Stage

Nose Box Electronics

Rear Electronics

Dual P-Tap Ports

12 Volts supplied at all times

Tally Input Port

Use with available tally sensor

Dual 12/24 Volt LEMO 0B Ports

12 Volts supplied at all times

12 and 24 Volts simultaneously when in 24V mode

Camera Power Port, LEMO® 2B

12 Volts supplied at all times
12 and 24 Volts simultaneously when in 24V mode

ISO Port, LEMO 0B

Provides an isolated port for
dedicated accessories

High-Definition Video Ports

Three direct, 3G compatible connections to the M-1 base
Color-coded at each end

2-1

Components

The Stage

Camera Installation:

The dovetail lock system was designed to ensure reliable camera safety. Mounting the camera to the M-1 encourages you
to keep at least one hand on the camera at all times until it is securely fastened. With your camera mounted to the
dovetail plate, follow these steps:

The stage is ready for the camera

plate. Note that the dovetail lock
and clamp lever are both open.

Place the dovetail plate against

the passive side of the clamp.

With two hands still on the

camera, tilt the plate into the
dovetail lock.

2-2

The weight of the camera will

press the dovetail lock down
and release the safety latch.
You’ll hear a satisfying click.

The camera and plate can be

moved fore and aft for coarse
balancing, but the safety stops
prevent any unintended
release of the camera.

Close the clamp lever to firmly

secure the camera onto the M-1.

Note:

If the dovetail lock has been pressed down while the dovetail plate was out, you will have to slide the safety latch to the
right to reopen the lock. This can be a fun test for your new camera assistant.

Camera Installation

The Stage

With your left hand, secure the

camera throughout this process.

The camera is still retained by

the safety latch.

Open the clamp lever.

Camera Removal:

As with installing the camera, separating the camera from the M-1 is designed to encourage users to keep at least one
hand on the camera at all times. Unlocking the clamp and removing the camera is a quick and easy process that will
become second nature in no time.

2-3

Push and hold the safety

latch to the right.

Keeping the safety latch held to

the side, tilt the dovetail plate
out of the dovetail lock.

Lift the camera off the rig.

Caution:

Do not remove safety screws from the dovetail plate or it could slide out if you forget to lock the clamp lever.

Camera Removal

Fore/aft adjustment knob: turning

towards the front of the rig will
move the camera weight forward.

Each drive has a scale indicating

the location and range. Starting
with the scales centered leaves
the most room for adjustment.

The Stage

Side-to-side adjustment knob:

turning towards the front of
the rig will move the camera
weight to the left.

Balance Drives:

Each knob has a twin on either side of the stage so you can adjust the balance from either side of the rig.
With the coarse balancing done and the camera locked in place, fine balancing can be finished with the drives:

Note:

Think about the drive knobs as turning towards the front or rear of the stage. The knobs turn clockwise on one side and
counterclockwise on the other side for the same stage movement.

2-4

Unlock cam levers.

Always re-lock cam levers.

Turn tilt drive to achieve desired

camera angle. Counterclockwise
turning tilts the camera down.

Tilt Drive:

The tilt drive enables you to easily tilt the camera relative to the post, which allows you to maintain dynamic balance

while panning and helps control headroom. It’s also very useful in low mode. The tilt stage offers 15˚ of downward tilt,
but if you need to tilt the lens upward, read about the 180˚ post reversal in the next section.

Drive Mechanisms

Tip:

The scale on the cam lever side of the tilt stage is handy for repeating setups. For example, if you have a tilt you prefer
the scale allows you to dial it in quickly without any guesswork, saving time.

Notes:

Stage Connector

Electrical and mechanical junction to stage

Gimbal Post

Safety Line

Inside posts
Prevents hyperextension
Allows 180˚ reversal

The Post

The M-1 Post

The new modular post for the M-1 system offers maximum rigidity whether it’s built short or at full
extension. It also allows users quick access to the stage, gimbal and base components for future upgrades,
mods and maintenance. The stage and base are both indexed to the post and the post segments are
indexed within each other, making alignment of the various components practically automatic.

3-1

Components

Base Connector

Electrical and mechanical junction to the base

Lower Post

Index Groove

Ensures alignment of posts

Clamp Lever

Over-center, tools-free lock
Shown here closed

Reference Lines

Etched into rear of both posts

Confirms perfect alignment

The Post

180˚ Post Reversal

In some situations you may benefit from having the stage turned to face the other direction; for example, with large camera
setups (like 3D) that need additional room directly in front of the stage, or to enable the tilt-head to tilt the lens upward.

Without a camera or batteries on

board, unlock the clamp lever and
extend the lower post.

Slide the lower post until the

yellow reference line changes to
red. Continue until you feel the
post index disengage, allowing
both sections to rotate.

Carefully rotate the lower post

180˚ until the indexing system

allows the posts to rejoin. Insert
the lower post back into the
gimbal post.

Caution:

To prevent damage to the cables inside the post, be careful not to twist the safety line past 360˚ by taking note of

the direction you turn the post in this process. For example, we suggest turning the lower post to the right for the
reversal and then returning it back to the left.

3-2

180˚ Post Reversal

The stage is now turned 180˚

relative to the base. The gimbal post
reference line faces forward.

Note:

Do not operate the M-1 with the red reference line showing!

Notes

:

The Gimbal

Clamp Lever

Over-center, tools-free lock

Shown here closed

Gimbal Grip

Knurled for positive feel

Removable Gimbal Handle

Comfortable ergonomic design
Swappable

Yoke

Pan Bearing

Inside outer ring
Easy to maintain

Dust protected

Arm Post Receiver

With holes for low-mode bracket

4-1

Components

Gimbal Handle Hints:

The M-1 gimbal handle is removable. You might want to remove it for shipping, to replace with an accessory, or to adjust
the roll bearings. You can also add a low-mode bracket to quickly lower the lens.

To remove the gimbal handle, turn

the knurled blue knob to the right.

Shown above with the

gimbal handle removed.

Tip:

If you plan to spend an extended period of time in low-mode, you might consider removing the stage and flipping the
gimbal over so you can operate on the gimbal grip. This also allows the camera to go even lower.

If installing the low-mode bracket,

always use the included stainless
aircraft pin when attaching.

Notes

:

The Monitor Mount

Post Clamp

Hinged quick-release

Opens 180

˚

Monitor Yoke

Monitor tilts at center of gravity
Yokes available for many monitors

Clamp Levers

Lock or release the monitor rods

Monitor Rods

15mm by 100mm spacing

Industry-standard threaded ends

Post Clamp Knob

Knob is captive to the clamp

5-1

Components

Upper Post Brake

Mount monitor bracket on gimbal post

Lower Post Brake

Mount monitor bracket on lower post

Monitor Pivot

180˚of movement for

unobstructed views

Safety Release

Captive monitor rods

Tools-free quick release

Pivot Clamp Knob

Adjustable friction brake

The Monitor Mount

Monitor Positioning:

The M-1 monitor mount is intended to allow practically limitless mounting positions. The monitor can be positioned close
to the post or far away. The mount can attach to either post. The monitor can be tilted to any angle and arced from
upright to inverted. Many of the possibilities take mere seconds to achieve and none take more than a minute. Get
creative and put that monitor where it helps you most:

To move the monitor fore and aft

on the rods, loosen the clamp
levers and slide. Re-lock clamp
levers to secure the monitor rods.

For fine angle adjustment, perhaps

to reduce glare, just tilt the monitor
by hand. No fasteners required.

To move the monitor in an

arc, loosen the pivot clamp
knob and rotate the yoke
around the monitor pivot.

5-2

Monitor Positioning

Tighten the pivot clamp knob to

secure the yoke.

Note:

Tilting the monitor within the monitor yoke does not affect the balance of the M-1 because it spins at the monitor’s

center of gravity. Tilting the yoke at the monitor pivot will require rebalancing the rig.

The Monitor Mount

To slide the monitor bracket up or

down the post, start by supporting
the monitor and loosening the
post clamp knob.

Reposition the entire assembly.

When on the lower post, the
index groove will maintain
monitor alignment.

Tighten the post clamp knob to

lock the monitor mount at the
new position.

Tip:

Support the monitor when sliding up or down the post to relieve the pressure on the mount so it will slide easily.

5-2

Monitor Positioning

The Brakes:

Each post on the M-1 has a specific collar, called a brake, for the monitor mount. They are intended to stay on each post
to allow for quick repositioning of the monitor from one post to the other. The lower post brake has tabs that align it with
the post to ensure the stage, monitor and base stay parallel. The gimbal post brake must be aligned by eye using the
reference lines.

Note:

If you prefer NOT to have the monitor indexed on the lower post, simply rotate the brake 180˚on the post and you will
have 75˚ available for rotation.

Lower Post Brake Standoff

0˚ Index Slot

75˚ Index Slot

The Monitor Mount

Loosen the post clamp knob until

it can clear the swing arm.

Switching Posts:

You can easily move the monitor mount from the lower post to the gimbal post. While the mount is off the brake, you can
also flip it over so the monitor will be upright in low-mode. Always support the monitor with one hand while disengaging
and engaging the clamp.

Pull the monitor away from the post.

The post clamp will swing clear,
leaving the brake on the post.

Reposition the monitor mount on

the other post brake, or flip it over
for low-mode. Ensure the front
index tabs are aligned.

5-2

Monitor Positioning

Close the post clamp swing arm

around the brake and lock the

monitor mount in place with the
post clamp knob.

The Monitor Mount

Notes

:

The Base and Battery Mount

Front Electronics

High-definition video ports
Power ports

Battery Rods

Allows positioning of batteries for balancing rig
Index markings for repeating setups
15mm by 60mm spacing

Clamp Levers

Lock or release the battery rods

On/Off Switch

Power for all components
Used for all power ports, with the exception
of ISO and battery mount P-Taps

Front Battery Mount

With 12 Volt P-Tap

Base Connector

Modular mechanical and electronics junction

Indexed to ensure exact alignment with post

6-1

Components

12/24 Volt Switch

Select 12 Volt or 24 Volt output when using two or more batteries

Base Rear Electronics

High-definition video connector
Monitor power and tally connector

Cheese Plate

¼” – 20 threaded holes

#8-32 threaded holes

Attach third battery or other accessories

Clamp Knob

Locks angle of battery mounts

Rear Battery Mount

With 12 Volt P-Tap

The Base and Battery Mount

Front Electronics

Rear Electronics

Three 12/24 Volt LEMO Ports

12 Volts supplied at all times

12 and 24 Volts simultaneously when in 24V mode

One 2B and two 0B sized ports

Base Connector

Modular mechanical and electronics junction
Indexed to ensure exact alignment with post

High-Definition Video Port

Direct, 3G compatible connection to
the M-1 stage

Color-coded at each end

12/24 Volt LEDs

Indicates selected voltage

ISO Port, LEMO 0B

Provides an isolated port for dedicated accessories

Monitor Port

Power and tally signal

High-Definition Video Ports

Direct, 3G compatible connections to the M-1 stage

Color-coded at each end

6-1

Components

Battery Positioning:

As with the monitor mount, the battery mount gives operators the freedom to set up the rig to their liking. The
batteries can be brought in tight to the base for a whippy feel and plenty of leg clearance for switches. The battery
mount can also be elongated to increase pan inertia and to balance a monitor placed way out front. Adjusting for
position and rotation takes seconds:

Note:

The batteries have approximately 8 inches of fore-aft adjustability on the battery rods. The cable chain limits the extension.

Unlock the battery rods by

rotating both clamp levers
perpendicular to the battery rods.

The Base and Battery Mount

Support the batteries with one

hand and loosen the battery
clamp knob with the other.

Rotate the batteries to the angle

you desire and re-tighten the
battery clamp knob.

6-2

Slide the batteries to either balance

the rig or move to your preferred
position. Then re-lock the clamp
levers before checking drop time.

Battery Positioning

Notes

:

P-Tap Ports:

The P-Taps integrated into the M-1 are limited to 5 Amps per connector, which are protected by self-resetting fuses
(check the specifications of accessories before powering via the P-Tap ports). The P-Taps on the stage deliver voltage of
approximately 12 Volts and are operated via the power switch on the base; the P-Taps on the base deliver the same 5
Amps but are not controlled by the power switch. The P-Taps on the base are current-limited by fuses in the battery
mounts which are typically 5 Amps for IDX VL and 10 Amps for Anton Bauer.

Using Two Batteries on the M-1 Base:

With the 12/24V switch in the 12 Volt position, the front and rear batteries are wired together in parallel. When the
switch is in the 24 Volt position, the two batteries are wired together in series. It is best not to mix charged and
discharged batteries. Note that the 12V output voltage is battery dependent and may vary approximately from 11 to 17
Volts with typical lithium-ion batteries. The 24V output voltage is battery dependent and will vary between approximately
22 and 34 Volts.

Power Management and Electronics

ISO Ports:

The ISO connectors on the stage and the base are isolated from the rest of the power system. There is no power
provided from the M-1 batteries and they are not operated via the power switch. The ISO lines are open and available to
accommodate the future expansion of your M-1 and custom applications.

Current Rating:

Maximum recommended current rating as rated by manufacturer (* see Power Management and Electronics
connector matrices)

Circuit Protection:

Circuit protection provided via internal battery protection circuitry. Current availability limited by battery protection.

Name Brand Batteries:

Using name brand Anton Bauer® or IDX® batteries is recommended.

7-1

Special Notes

Caution about Battery-Mount Video Transmitters:

When utilizing 24V mode, do not attach a sandwiched video transmitter to the front battery plate of the M-1. This will
cause a live ground situation, damaging the transmitter or other components. Sandwiched transmitters are safe on the
rear battery plate in 12V or 24V mode.

Rear Battery Plate

Safe to mount video transmitter

here in either mode

Front Battery Plate

DO NOT mount a video transmitter here in 24V mode

Power Management and Electronics

Nose Box Electronics

P-Tap

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V

Tally

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: TALLY SENSE
Pin 3: TALLY OUT
Pin 4: +12V

12/24V LEMO

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V
Pin 3: +24V

P-Tap

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V

12/24V LEMO

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V
Pin 3: +24V

7-2

ISO

Pin 1: Pin 1 Base
Pin 2: Pin 2 Base
Pin 3: Pin 3 Base

Direct connect to

ISO on Base

CAM PWR

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V
Pin 3: +24V

Connector/Pin Diagrams

Stage, Rear Electronics

HD1

BNC male, direct

connect to HD1 on Base

HD3

BNC male, direct

connect to HD3 on Base

HD2

BNC male, direct

connect to HD2 on Base

AMPHENOL® 112253

12/24V 2B LEMO

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V
Pin 3: +24V

12/24V (2X) 0B LEMO

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V
Pin 3: +24V

ISO

Pin 1: Pin 1 Stage
Pin 2: Pin 2 Stage
Pin 3: Pin 3 Stage

Direct connect to

ISO on Stage

HD2

BNC male, direct

connect to HD2 on Stage

HD3

BNC male, direct

connect to HD3 on Stage

Power Management and Electronics

Base, Front Electronics

7-2

HD1

BNC male, direct connect

to HD1 on Stage

MON PWR

Pin 1: PWR GND
Pin 2: +12V
Pin 3: TALLY
Pin 4: RX
Pin 5: TX

Connector/Pin Diagrams

Base, Rear Electronics

Power Management and Electronics

Pin #1

M-1 Stage, Base and Post Connectors:

These proprietary connectors carry power and video signals through

the post but still allow the components to be disassembled easily.

Because these connectors mate together, they are mirrors of each

other, so be careful when determining pins. The 12 pins are counted

in a circle starting at pin #1 with one dot, followed by #2 with two

dots and continuing from there.

Pin #1

Pin #12

Pin #2

Pin #2

Pin #12

7-2

Separating the Major Modular Components:

The three major components—the stage, post and base—all connect through the post connectors. You can easily gain
access to your gimbal by removing the stage. Here’s how it works:

Use a 7/64” Allen

®

wrench to

remove the six screws from
the post connector.

To remove the stage from the

post, start with the tilt set square,
which allows access to all screws.

Note:

While the stage is removed, the gimbal can be slid off the post for inspection and maintenance.

Adjustments and Maintenance

Pull the stage STRAIGHT up off

the post. It may take a firm pull,
but do not force anything.

8-1

Separating Modular Components

To reinstall the stage, align the

red dot with the red line on the
post connectors. Insert firmly until
the stainless ring is flush.

Install the six screws with a 7/64”

Allen wrench. Tighten with ample

torque to secure the stage.

Caution:

Only use the provided high-strength screws for the stage connector. Spares are available.

Pull the post STRAIGHT up off the

base. It may take a firm pull, but
do not force anything.

Use a

9/64” Allen wrench to

remove the four screws from
the post connector.

To remove the base, start by

removing the monitor mount to
make it easier to access the screws.

Adjustments and Maintenance

8-1

Separating Modular Components

Note:

Only use the provided high strength screws for the base connector. Spares are available.

To reinstall the post on the base,

align the flat spot on the post
connectors. The straight edge of
the post foot should align behind

the 12/24V LED’s (as indicated by

the blue lines in the image above).

Insert firmly until the post

connector sits flush on the base

and install the four screws with a

9/64” Allen wrench. Tighten with

ample torque to secure the post.

Notes

:

Adjusting Clamps:

The M-1 utilizes a variety of clamps for tools-free adjustments. This section will show you how to ensure each type is
adjusted for optimum clamping force and ease of use. When the rig is new, get accustomed to the feel of each
mechanism so that you can determine if one needs attention later. Let’s start at the top:

Turn the adjustment nut to dial in

the tension. Turn clockwise to
tighten, counterclockwise to
loosen. Make small adjustments.

Use a 7/64” Allen wrench to

loosen the lock screw
approximately one-half turn.

Adjusting the dovetail clamp begins

with the dovetail plate installed and
the clamp lever closed.

Adjustments and Maintenance

8-2

Clamp Adjustments

Test to see if the dovetail clamp

holds firmly by trying to move the
dovetail plate with your hands.
Test the clamp lever movement.
Repeat adjustment if necessary.

Tighten the lock screw.

Check to ensure that the brass

washers do not move. If they do,
add another small turn to each nut.

Adjust the cam levers while

they’re in the closed position.

Tilt Locks:

If the brass washers between the tilt stage components have any play when the cam levers are in their closed position,
you’re not getting the most rigidity from the system. Here’s how to adjust them properly:

Use an

11/32”

open-end

wrench to tighten each nut a
small but equal amount. Start
with one-eighth of a turn each.

Adjustments and Maintenance

8-2

Clamp Adjustments

With the levers unlocked, turn the

tilt drive knob to test that the tilt
drive system moves smoothly. If
it feels right, you’re ready to go.

Check to ensure the cam levers

move freely. If they won’t open,
you’ve over-tightened the nuts.

Adjustments and Maintenance

Caution:

Do not over-tighten the post clamps! They are strong enough to distort the carbon fiber post sections but do not need to
be that tight to hold. Use minimum clamping force while still holding securely.

Test the action of the clamp lever

and the holding power of the
clamp. Repeat if necessary.

Use a 3/32” Allen wrench to turn

each screw an equal, tiny amount.
You don’t want to over-tighten
these, take your time.

The over-center locks on the post

clamps are adjusted while the
post clamp is closed.

Post Locks:

The low-profile post clamps are easy to use and offer a positive lock. You should occasionally test to ensure the gimbal
and post are being clamped fully by trying to move the components with the clamps closed. If the components slide with
a camera on board, it will affect your drop time.

8-2

Test the holding power of the rod

clamps to ensure the monitor or
batteries will not slide when locked.

Turn the nut a small amount with an

11/32” wrench. Test that the clamp

lever opens and closes smoothly.

Adjust the clamp locks with the

clamp levers closed.

Rod Clamps:

The monitor and battery rod clamp locks are identical. Though the levers only have a short 45˚ throw, they clamp
securely when properly adjusted. If they slide with a camera on board it will affect your static balance.

Clamp Adjustments

Use a 7/64” Allen wrench to either

tighten or loosen the brake screw
to achieve the desired amount of
friction to support your setup.

Adjust the friction hinge with the

clamp knob loose. This allows you
to feel the effects of your changes.

Hinge Brakes:

The monitor and battery pivots have built in friction brakes to support the weight of your monitor and batteries while
the clamp knobs are open. If you prefer more or less friction, adjust the friction brakes to your preference. Have
your rig completely built and keep one hand on the monitor or batteries while making this adjustment:

Adjustments and Maintenance

8-2

Clamp Adjustments

Use the supplied tool (815-7971) to

hand-tighten the nut a small amount.

Loosen the locking set screws

one-half turn with a 1/16” Allen
wrench. You do not need to
remove the set screw.

Remove the covers on one pair of

stage drive knobs. A penknife or
fine blade screwdriver work nicely.

Adjustments and Maintenance

Drive Knob Adjustment:

If the fore/aft, side-to-side or tilt drive knobs exhibit free play, your balancing accuracy may be compromised. However,
over-tightening can be worse than being loose, so approach these adjustments with care. Follow the steps to tighten the
knobs and ensure the proper amount of tension on the drives:

8-3

The knob should not be

overly tight, but should not

have any slack. When you’re

satisfied with the feel of the
drive, replace the nut covers.

Tighten the locking set screws

before testing the drive knobs.

Tighten the knob on the

opposite side a small amount
as well. Adjust the tension a
little at a time and sneak up
on the perfect setup.

Note:

Tighten the stage drive knobs in pairs; BOTH fore/aft or BOTH side/side knobs.
Each pair of knobs share an axle and should be tensioned evenly.

Drive Knob Adjustment

Tilt Drive Adjustment:

As with the stage drive knobs, the tilt drive knob has an adjustment nut inside. Adjusting it is a similar process:

Use the supplied tool (815-7971)

to hand-tighten the nut a small
amount. Re-tighten the set screw
and test the drive by turning the
tilt drive knob.

Use a 1/16” Allen wrench to

loosen the locking set screw
one-half turn.

With no camera on the rig, open

the cam levers and remove the
cover from the tilt drive knob with
a penknife or thin screwdriver.

Adjustments and Maintenance

8-3

Drive Knob Adjustment

Put the cover back

on the tilt drive knob

and don’t forget to

close the cam levers.

The drive should have minimal

play before engaging, but operate
very smoothly. Repeat the
previous steps until you’re

satisfied with the feel.

Notes

:

Gimbal Disassembly:

The modular nature of the M-1 encourages operators to take good care of their rigs. Cleaning the pan bearing from time to time will
keep your M-1 performing at its best. First, remove the gimbal from the post and grab the included blue spanner tool (815-7910).

Invert the gimbal and carefully

press the inner ring out of the
bearing and set it aside.

Unscrew the gimbal grip

and set it aside.

Use the “inside” pins of the spanner

tool to loosen the inner ring.

Adjustments and Maintenance

8-4

Applying even pressure to both

sides, ease the pan bearing out.
Never use tools to pry on a bearing.

Use the “outer” spanner pins

to unscrew and remove the
pan bearing lock.

Use a 1/16” Allen wrench to remove

the three hex screws and set aside
the top cover.

Gimbal Disassembly and Cleaning

Adjustments and Maintenance

Pan Bearing and Gimbal Housing Cleaning:

With the pan bearing removed, spend an adequate amount of time to carefully clean out any contaminants within the
pan bearing. Warning: our recommended solvent is 100% acetone; take the necessary precautions to keep it off of
sensitive items (such as plastics and your skin) and always follow the manufacturer’s safety recommendations.

Note:

Please dispose of acetone in an environmentally conscious manner, or reuse it to clean non-sensitive items.

8-4

 In a glass container, put enough 100% acetone to completely cover the bearing and submerge it.
 Let soak for 10 minutes. Gently agitate the acetone by moving the container or using a paintbrush.
 Drain and refill the container with fresh acetone and repeat until no more contaminants can be seen in the fluid.
 While the pan bearing is soaking, clean the other gimbal parts with a lint free rag and more acetone.
 When the bearing is completely clean, let it air dry for a few minutes. Use compressed air to blow off excess acetone.
 Use ONE drop of the lightest oil available on the bearing balls and slowly turn the bearing to distribute; using an oil

that complies with MIL-PRF-7808 is preferred. The pan bearing is now ready to reinstall.

Pan Bearing Cleaning

Caution:

Never spin a dry bearing! Doing so without any lubricant can score the internals and lead to increased friction. Be patient
and wait until you have applied oil before turning the pan bearing.

Cleaning Steps:

Adjustments and Maintenance

Gimbal Reassembly:

With everything now inspected and cleaned, it’s time to put it all back together. Don’t remember where everything goes?

No problem, just follow along:

Install the top cover with the three

hex screws. Do not over-tighten;

this is just a cover.

Install the pan bearing lock.

Hand turn first to ensure proper

threading, then finish with the

“outer” pins of the spanner.

Lightly grease the inside of the

outer ring and carefully press in

the pan bearing. If you apply too

much grease it will migrate into
the bearing, causing excessive
friction, so be careful.

GREASE

8-5

Note:

When reinstalling the pan bearing we recommend using a grease such as Magnalube-G®.

If necessary, lightly grease the inner

ring and install with even pressure.
Use as little grease as possible to
install. Attach the top cover.

Gimbal Assembly

Hold on to the inner ring and screw

on the gimbal grip until it’s seated.

Use the “inner” pins of the spanner

to tighten fully. And you’re done!

GREASE

Adjustments and Maintenance

Lubricating the M-1:

There are a few locations on the rig that can use occasional lubrication. Use a heavy Teflon® grease sparingly to keep
from attracting debris; we recommend Magnalube-G.

 A little grease on the drive gears of the stage will help keep things operating smoothly.
 The threads of the tilt drive might like some grease from time to time. Don’t use too much.
 The threads of the clamp knobs also benefit from a little grease. Greasing the threads of the clamp

knobs allows for maximum clamping force with minimal effort.

Areas to Apply Grease:

8-6

Lubrication and Exterior Cleaning

Cleaning the M-1:

If you’re careful, the 100% acetone used to clean the gimbal is a suitable solvent for cleaning much of the M-1’s carbon
fiber, aluminum and stainless steel components. But, if you wish, window cleaner misted onto a lint-free cloth will take
care of most grime.

Caution:

If you use acetone to clean the post sections, be extremely careful not to remove the painted reference lines!

 The carbon fiber post sections are extremely durable but will slide better when kept clean.
 All of the aluminum and steel components can be cleaned to maintain a like-new appearance.
 Carefully clean your monitor screen with Pancro or a similar lens cleaning solution.

Cleaning Notes:

Accessories:

There are many accessories to accommodate the wide variety of operators working with the M-1. From return monitor
mounts for the broadcast world to follow focus receiver/amp mounts for cinema ops. Make sure to check out the latest
innovations at www.steadicam.com.

PART NO.

DESCRIPTION

805-7200-02
811-7200-10
815-7800-01
078-1121
078-1122
078-2038-01
078-4122-01
078-7410-01
250-0045
250-0046
250-0093
250-7915
250-7977
252-0021
252-0054
252-7906
252-7926
257-0045
257-0046
800-0106
800-0107
800-0111
800-0116
800-7350-01
800-7350-02
800-7900

G-70x Arm with Socket Block & 3/4" Arm Post
G-50x Arm with Socket Block & 3/4" Arm Post
Exovest with Large Socket Block
¼”-20 Camera Mounting Screw
3/8"-16 Camera Mounting Screw
Video Low Mode Cage
Video Cable, 2', BNC to BNC
Vehicle Mount with Large Socket Block
Accessory Cable, 12V, 22", Right Angle 2B.303 to Right Angle Female XLR-4
Accessory Cable, 24V, 22", Right Angle 2B.303 to Open-End
Power Cable, 24V, 22", Right Angle 2B.303 to 2-Pin Fischer® for ARRI® Alexa
15mm Motor Rod Set with Mounting Bracket
Post Adapter, 6" x 5/8" Arm to 3/4"
Accessory Cable, 24V, 8", 1B.304 to 0B.303 for Preston
Power Cable, 24V, 15", Right Angle 2B.303 to 1S.302 for Panavision® Millennium® XL
Low Mode Bracket
Cable, 12V, 24", XLR-4 to Open-End
Accessory Cable, 12V, 22", 2B.303 to Right Angle XLR-4
Accessory Cable, 12V, 22", 2B.303 to Open-End
Power Cable, 12V, 15", Right Angle 2B.303 to 2B.306 for Red One®
Power Cable, 12V, 15", Right Angle 2B.303 to 3B.308 for Genesis®
Monitor Cable, 12V, 32", 1B.308 to Right Angle XLR-4/BNC/2.5mm for 7" Marshall HD LCD
Power Cable, 12V, 15", Right Angle 2B.303 to 1B.306 for Red Camera® Epic®, Scarlet® & Dragon®
Large Dovetail VL Battery Mount (3rd Battery Mount)
Large Dovetail AB Battery Mount (3rd Battery Mount)
Mitchell Base Vehicle Mount with Large Socket Block

Accessories for the M-1

9-1

PART NO.

DESCRIPTION

800-7970
815-7905
FFR-000005
FFR-000008
FFR-000012
FFR-000040
FFR-000041
FFR-000042
FFR-000043
FFR-000052
FGS-900207
Coming Soon!
Coming Soon!
Coming Soon!
Coming Soon!
Coming Soon!

1 lb. Weight
Docking Collar
Dual Sequential V-Mount Battery Charger
Quad Simultaneous V-Mount Battery Charger
IDX Adapter Bracket
Dual Charger & (2) IDX E-HL9S Batteries
Dual Charger & (4) IDX E-HL9S Batteries
Quad Charger & (4) IDX E-HL9S Batteries
Quad Charger & (8) IDX E-HL9S Batteries
IDX E-HL9S Battery
Docking Bracket
Return Monitor & Bracket
Slim Third Battery Mount
MDR Bracket
Short Dovetail Plate (6”)
Accessory Weight & Bracket

Contact Tiffen

9-2