Smart AY Tango Service Manual

Tango
Smart Console™
Service Manual
14th Oct 2009
WARNING:
This procedure is intended for technical staff only. Some of the procedures contained in this manual may result in serious damage if attempted by inexperienced personnel.
WARNING: The chassis of the Tango console has some flexibility when the top
modules are removed. You must service the console on a flat work surface and take precautions to ensure the chassis is not excessively twisted or stressed while dis-assembled. Failure to take these precautions could result in damage to some of the internal components.
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Table Of Contents
1. CONNECTING KEYBOARD + MOUSE 3
2. TANGO SOFTWARE SHUTDOWN 3
3. GRAPHICS PROPERTIES 5
4. TOUCHSCREEN DRIVER 8
5. TOUCH SCREEN CALIBRATION 14
6. CONSOLE BIOS 17
7. OPENING THE CONSOLE – UPPER MODULE 17
8. OPENING THE CONSOLE – LOWER MODULE 21
9. UPPER MODULE DISSASSEMBLY (REPLACE LCD) 25
10. LOWER MODULE DISSASSEMBLY 31
11. DISPLAY (LCD) HARDWARE 33
12. TOUCHSCREEN HARDWARE 37
13. USB PORTS 40
14. LOWER FADER PCB (HKLOW) 42
15. UPPER ENCODER PCB (LCDENC) 44
16. FADERS + HKPID PCB 44
17. PANCPU / FIRMWARE 46
18. FIXING CORRUPT FIRMWARE 48
19. POWER SUPPLY MODULES 50
20. NETWORK PROBLEMS 53
21. HARD DISK 59
22. WINDOWS CORRUPTION / RE-LOADING 61
23. TANGO SOFTWARE CORRUPTION / RE-LOADING 63
24. FADER CALIBRATION 66
25. CHECKING CONSOLE START-UP SEQUENCE 69
26. SYSTEM CONNECTION DIAGRAMS 71
27. FAQ 75
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1. CONNECTING KEYBOARD + MOUSE
Normal operation of Tango does not require a keyboard or mouse to be connected. However, most debug operations on Tango will require a keyboard and mouse to allow access to Windows components such as Windows Explorer or the control panel. Use a USB keyboard and mouse and connect these devices to the rear USB ports on Tango as shown below.
Note: The motherboard in Tango is a lower power design and does not support high power USB devices. You will likely experience problems trying to connect USB powered devices such as KVM boxes, USB hubs, illuminated keyboards, etc.
2. TANGO SOFTWARE SHUTDOWN
While most debugging/configuring of the console can be performed while the Tango software is operating, it may be necessary to close the software to perform some operations. The following steps outline how to close the console software applications without shutting down the entire console (as would be the case if you used the SHUTDOWN command in Tango).
Press Alt + Tab until the “Smart AV Console Monitor” application is
active.
Click on the “Kill All” button to close all the Tango applications.
De-select the “Hide Taskbar” checkbox so that the taskbar is displayed.
Minimize the Console Monitor window by clicking on the Minimize
button.
Connect Keyboard + Mouse Here
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To re-start the Tango software, proceed as follows:-
Press the Alt+Tab key combination repeatedly until you select the
“Console Monitor” application. This will open the Console Monitor window.
Check the 3 “Auto Start” checkboxes.
Select the “Hide Taskbar” checkbox so that the taskbar is hidden.
Minimize the Console Monitor window by clicking on the Minimize
button.
The console software will now re-start within a few seconds.
DESELECT TO SHOW
TASKBAR
MI
NIMIZE
PRESS
KILLALL
CHECK ALL 3 BOXES
CHECK TO HIDE
TASKBAR
MINIMIZE
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3. GRAPHICS PROPERTIES
Graphics problems with the console can be divided into 2 categories, hardware problems or driver / configuration problems. When the console first boots, the BIOS will display the message “Console Starting. Please Wait……..” in a diamond shape. If you can see this message clearly then the display hardware is most likely OK and you should proceed through this section to resolve a graphics driver properties problem. If the display is blank, fuzzy or a series of striped lines during this stage of bootup you need to check the hardware (see section 11).
If the boot message is displayed correctly but then the screen is blank (white) or a series of horizontal or vertical lines, try pressing CNTRL + ALT + F3 on your keyboard and wait a few seconds. If the display does not return you will need to open the upper module of the console and connect a VGA monitor directly to the motherboard to diagnose the graphics driver properties.
The graphics card in Tango is integrated into the motherboard within the console. This graphics card is configured to drive 2 displays within Tango, the main 22” LCD (driven directly via LVDS – like in a notebook PC) and an optional external DVI LCD (used for the passive extension bay). The connector for this is on the rear of the console. There is also a VGA output on the motherboard (only accessible within the console) which may be useful for debug purposes.
Resolving any display problems with Tango should start with a check of the graphics driver properties / settings.
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Control
Panel” from the start menu.
From the control panel, select “Intel Extreme Graphics”
In the graphics driver window, click on the “Display Devices” tab and
check the settings are as shown below. The secondary device is the external DVI for the extension bay and should be set to “Digital Display”. You will only be able to select this setting if you have a DVI monitor selected. If you don’t you can simply leave it set to “Monitor” as shown below. You will need to revisit this setting if you connect an extension bay in the future.
NOTE: The primary device must always be set to Notebook. If it is incorrectly changed the display will go blank when you click Apply and problems could arise.
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If you need to change any settings click on the “Apply” button when you
are done and then click “OK” to confirm the new settings. If you make a mistake and the display goes blank or to an unsupported resolution where you can’t see anything, don’t click “OK” to confirm and it will revert to the original settings after 15 seconds so please wait.
Now click on the “Display Settings” tab and then “Notebook” and check
the settings are as shown below, particularly the resolution and rotation.
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If you need to change any settings click on the “Apply” button when you
are done and then click “OK” to confirm the new settings. Again, if you make a mistake and the display goes blank or to an unsupported resolution where you can’t see anything, don’t click “OK” to confirm and it will revert to the original settings after 15 seconds so please wait.
If you have an extension bay connected to the DVI output, click the other
tab and make sure the settings for this display are the same.
NOTE: If the display on your console is blank (as a result of incorrect adjustments or for some other reason) you should try pressing CNTRL + ALT + F3 on your keyboard and wait a few seconds. The monitor should come back on and then you can proceed through these steps again with the correct settings. This key press switches the Primary Monitor back to Notepad. If this fails you will need to open the console and connect a VGA monitor to proceed.
At this point you display should be functioning correctly again. If you were unable to select the correct resolution (1680 X 1050) in the steps above you need to check the following Windows settings.
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Control
Panel” from the start menu.
From the control panel, select “Display”.
Select the “Settings” tab and click the “Advanced” button.
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Select the “Monitor” tab and make sure the checkbox labelled “Hide
Modes That This Monitor Cannot Display” is unchecked.
4. TOUCHSCREEN DRIVER
If the touch screen fails to function the first step is to check the driver and associated settings. Firstly check the driver is correctly enabled (a reboot of the console may also fix a problem here).
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Control
Panel” from the start menu.
From the control panel select “System” and then select the “Hardware”
tab.
UNCHECK
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding with any touchscreen repairs you should ensure the display is thoroughly cleaned as per the notes in the installation guide. This must include cleaning around the bezel area using compressed air. Dust in this bezel area is a common cause of touchscreen failures.
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Click on the “Device Manager” button.
Click on the “+” beside “Human Interface Devices” to expand this
category of devices.
One of the devices in this category should be “GeneralTouch Touchscreen
USB Interface 6001u Rev 1”. Make sure there is not a red cross or yellow “!” displayed on this device (either would indicate a problem).
If there is a problem with this device, right click (on the device) and select
“Disable” from the menu.
Wait 5 seconds and then right click and select “Enable” from the menu.
This will have re-started the driver.
If this device does not exist in the list or you have not been able to resolve your problem using the above steps, you most likely have a hardware problem or the driver has been un-installed or corrupted. You will need to go to the hardware section of this manual and check all the touchscreen connections and/or re­install the touchscreen driver. If you are unable to re-install the driver, check for a hardware problem (see section 12).
Once you download the touchscreen driver from the Smart AV website, install it as follows:-
Insert your USB stick containing the driver files (unzipped) into the upper
USB port on the rear of the console (beside the power switch).
Click on the “Start” menu and select “Run” to open the “Run” window.
CHECK THE TOUCHSCREEN DEVICE
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Click the “Browse” button.
Browse to touchscreen driver files on your USB stick and select the file
“Setup.exe” then click “Open”
Click “OK” in the “Run” window to start the installation.
Follow the prompts to install the touchscreen driver.
When prompted to select a device, select “USB”.
You will see a warning message display (more than once). Each time
select “Continue Anyway”.
RUN WINDOW
BROWSE
SELECT SETUP.EXE
OPEN
SELECT USB
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When installing on a console running Windows Embedded, the driver
setup will fail to find 2 files “hidusb.sys” and “hid.dll”.
When prompted for the file “hidusb.sys”, click “Browse” and set the path
to C:\WINDOWS\system32\drivers and then click “OK”.
When prompted for the file “hid.dll”, click “Browse” and set the path to
C:\WINDOWS\system32 and then click “Retry”.
SELECT CONTINUE
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When the process is complete you will see the “Setup Complete”
window.
Ensure the checkbox is checked to start the touchscreen control Panel on
completion.
Click Finish to complete the installation.
Once you have re-installed the driver you will need to check the various settings and perform a calibration (detailed in the next section). To check or adjust the various settings for the Touchscreen, follow the following steps:-
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Control
Panel” from the start menu.
From the control panel, select “GeneralTouch Touchscreen”.
Click on the “Diagnostic” tab. You should see a list of “Product
Information” which is similar to that shown below. If the list is simply displaying “??????” or “unsupported” for each category then you most likely have a hardware problem. You will need to go to the hardware section and check all the touchscreen connections.
CHECK BOX
CLICK FINISH
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Click on the “Settings” tab. Check that the settings are as shown below.
The mouse mode is important to ensure the Tango software works correctly.
If you wish to stop the console from beeping when you touch the screen,
go to the “Sound” tab and set “Beep On” to “Disabled”. Default is to beep on touch as shown below.
CHECK EACH
INFORMATION ENTRY
CHECK DRAG IS SELECTED
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5. TOUCH SCREEN CALIBRATION
From time to time the touchscreen on Tango may need to be re-calibrated. In particular if you notice that it is hard to select items on the screen accurately, it is time to re-calibrate the touchscreen. Follow the steps below to re-calibrate the touchscreen.
If you have the “Touchscreen Properties window already open (or you wish to open it from the control panel as shown in the preceding section) you can continue by clicking the Calibrate button on this panel as shown below. Otherwise, perform the calibration from the Tango software as follows:-
Select the “System” menu tab on the LHS of the display.
Select “Operating System” from the System Menu
Select “Calibrate Touch” from the System Menu to open the “Touchscreen
Properties”.
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding with any touchscreen repairs you should ensure the display is thoroughly cleaned as per the notes in installation guide. This must include cleaning around the bezel area using compressed air. Dust in this bezel area is a common cause of touchscreen failures .
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Press the Calibrate button to begin the calibration process.
You will now be shown a grey screen with a pink target. Touch the target
accurately and another will appear. Continue touching each target until the grey screen disappears.
CALIBRATE BUTTON
CALIBRATE TO
UCH
OPERATING SYSTEM
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Press the “OK” button on the “Touchscreen Properties” window to close this
window. Your calibration is now complete.
If your console has a Passive Extension Bay connected the Touchscreen Properties window will show slightly different options. You will be presented with an extra drop-down list containing the items “Desktop”, “Monitor1” and “Monitor2”. Select “Monitor1” to calibrate the main Tango display and “Monitor2” to calibrate the Extension Bay display as shown below.
WARNING:
You must continue touching all targets
until the grey screen disappears.
Do not press the ESC key or else your calibration will be lost.
SELECT THE MONITOR
TO CALIBRATE
IMPORTANT:
Each time you connect or disconnect a Passive Extension Bay you will need to re-calibrate your touchscreens. You will find that the calibration is wrong after each change in configuration.
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6. CONSOLE BIOS
NOTE: Any changes to BIOS settings can be dangerous and may render the console un-useable. Incorrect display selection in the BIOS will disable the console LCD and will require considerable disassembly of the console.
The BIOS settings of the console should not require any changes by the user or during servicing. The selected settings are the default that will remain, even if the BIOS battery goes flat.
The BIOS start-up messages are hidden from the user and a simple message stating “Console Starting. Please Wait…..” is all that is displayed.
If this “Console Starting. Please Wait…..” message is not displayed or the screen displays a funny pattern or series of lines during boot then there could be a problem with the BIOS settings (if you suspect they have changed – otherwise check the display hardware first). You will need to disassemble the console to access the VGA port inside and then see section 11 for the correct BIOS settings.
7. OPENING THE CONSOLE – UPPER MODULE
The console upper module can be opened for servicing by following the steps below. Care must be taken to ensure no damage is done to the black painted surfaces or the acrylic lens material on the top surfaces. Both of these can be easily scratched if not handled carefully.
Ensure the console is powered off and all external connections are
removed from the console.
Remove the aluminium end panels from both sides of the console. This is
done by removing the 6 x M6 CSK screws that secure each end panel. These screws require a 2.5mm Allen Key for removing them. The location of these screws is shown below.
WARNING:
The chassis of the Tango console has some flexibility when the top modules are removed. You must service the console on a flat work surface and take precautions to ensure the chassis is not excessively twisted or stressed while disassembled. Failure to take these precautions could result in damage to some of the internal components.
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To open the upper module of the console, follow the steps below. Opening the upper module provides access to the upper module components as well as the embedded PC, PSU, touch controller and HDD.
Push back the locking ears on both sides of the connector to disconnect the
ribbon cable from the upper module on the RHS of the console.
Remove the 5 x M3 screws from under the top rear of the console. The
location of these screws is shown below.
Remove Screws
(x6)
Remove Ribbon
Cable
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Remove the 3 x M3 screws from each side of the upper module (see
below).
Carefully open the upper module from the bottom edge. The best
approach is to hinge the module open like a car bonnet.
NOTE: Take extra care with this step so that the acrylic lenses are not damaged at the point where the 2 modules meet. The best way is to slide the module upwards first and then lift the bottom edge once it is clear of the lower module.
Remove Screws (x5)
Remove Screws
(x3)
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You now have access to all the major components inside the console. You may be able to services some components by having an assistant hold the upper module open while you work within the console. If you wish to remove the module completely, proceed as follows, taking careful note of the various connections as this will help with re-assembly.
Remove the LVDS cable from the monitor. You will need to cut the cable
tie that is securing this cable.
Remove the Inverter cable from the inverter PCB.
Remove the Touch Screen cable from the touch controller module.
Disconnect the upper USB cable.
Remove Power Switch cable by disconnecting the spade terminals from
the main power switch.
Lift the upper module clear of the console.
To re-assemble the upper module into the console, proceed as follows.
Re-connect all 5 cables. Note there is no polarity for the Power Switch
cable and that the metallic surface of the LVDS connector should be facing the LCD monitor (the polarity of this connection is difficult to see).
Carefully lift the upper module back into position.
LVDS Cable +
Cable Tie
Inverter
Cable
Touch Screen
Cable
Upper USB
Cable
Power Switch
Cable
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Replace the 3 x M3 screws in each side of the upper module but leave
these screws loose.
Adjust the height of the lower edge of the upper module so that the join
between the 2 modules looks neat. Generally this will require you to lift the bottom edge of the module as high as the screw holes will allow.
Tighten the side screws, starting with the bottom screws on each side.
Replace the 5 x M3 screws under the top edge.
Re-connect the ribbon cable on the RHS of the console.
Replace the aluminium end panels.
8. OPENING THE CONSOLE – LOWER MODULE
The console lower module can be opened for servicing by following the steps below. Care must be taken to ensure no damage is done to the black painted surfaces or the acrylic lens material on the top surfaces. Both of these can be easily scratched if not handled carefully.
Ensure the console is powered off and all external connections are
removed from the console.
Remove the aluminium end panels from both sides of the console. This is
done by removing the 6 x M6 CSK screws that secure each end panel.
Lift In This Direction
WARNING:
The chassis of the Tango console has some flexibility when the top modules are removed. You must service the console on a flat work surface and take precautions to ensure the chassis is not excessively twisted or stressed while disassembled. Failure to take these precautions could result in damage to some of the internal components.
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These screws require a 2.5mm Allen Key for removing them. The location of these screws is shown below.
To open the lower module of the console, follow the steps below. Opening the lower module provides access to the lower module components as well as the network hub.
Remove the 3 x M3 screws from each side of the lower module (see
below).
Remove Screws
(x6)
Remove Screws (x5)
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Carefully open the lower module from the front edge. The best approach
is to hinge the module open like a car bonnet by holding onto the bolster.
NOTE: Take extra care with this step so that the acrylic lenses are not damaged at the point where the 2 modules meet. The best way is to slide the module forward first and then lift the front edge once it is clear of the lower module.
You now have access to the components of the lower module. You may be able to services some components by having an assistant hold the lower module open while you work within the console. If you wish to remove the module completely, proceed as follows, taking careful note of the various connections as this will help with re-assembly.
Remove the ENET cable from the lower module.
Disconnect the Lower Module Power cable (inline 4 pin connector).
Slide Forward
Lift
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Push back the locking ears on both sides of the connector to disconnect the
ribbon cable from the upper module on the RHS of the console. Ensure the ribbon cable is free and ready to be pulled out with the lower module.
Lift the upper module clear of the console, taking the ribbon cable with the
module.
Lower Module
Power Cable
ENET Cable
Remove Ribbon
Cable
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To re-assemble the lower module into the console, proceed as follows.
Re-connect the 2 cables.
Carefully lift the lower module back into position.
Replace the 3 x M3 screws in each side of the lower module.
Re-connect the ribbon cable on the RHS of the console.
Replace the aluminium end panels.
9. UPPER MODULE DISSASSEMBLY (REPLACE LCD)
NOTE: The glass touchscreen is extremely fragile when it is not protected by the metalwork of the console. Take extra care with the disassembly of this module to ensure no damage is done to the glass panel or the fragile transducers and wiring on the corners of the panel.
Once the upper module has been removed from the console it can be disassembled as follows.
Using a 1.5mm Allen Key, remove all the knobs from the RHS of the
screen by loosening the grub screws.
IMPORTANT:
On some early Tangos you may find the screw holes in the side of the lower module do not easily align with their corresponding holes in the chassis. It is important that you don’t try and manhandle the chassis to align these holes as you may risk twisting the chassis excessively. To align the holes, place a scribe or small screwdriver into 1 of the holes and “lever” it until the other holes on that side line up and then fit the other 2 screws. Now repeat this procedure
on the other side of the console.
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Lay the module face down on a flat work surface with a layer of
protection to prevent any scratching.
Disconnect the cables from the Inverter PCB.
Remove the 3 x M3 screws securing the Inverter PCB and remove this
PCB.
Remove the 2 screws securing the USB socket and remove this socket.
Remove the 6 x M3 screws securing the LCDENC PCB and remove this
PCB.
Inverter PCB
Inverter
Cables
LCDENC PCB
USB Socket
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Remove the LCD support bracket from the centre of the LCD by
removing the 2 x M3 nuts at the top and 2 x M3 screws at the bottom of the bracket. Remove the bracket by pulling it clear from the bottom first.
Remove the 4 screws (2 each side) that secure the LCD into the mounting
brackets.
Remove the 6 x M4 nuts from the LCD mounting brackets on each side of
the LCD. These brackets can now be carefully lifted away from the upper module. Note that these brackets may be a bit sticky due to double sided adhesive tape used on the LCD and need a small amount of force to remove them.
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The LCD and touchscreen can now be lifted clear of the upper module.
Take care not to damage the fine wires and sensors around the touchscreen.
M4 Nuts (x4)
LCD Mounting
Brackets
LCD Mounting
Screws
(Both Sides)
Bracket Lifted
Clear
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At this point you can inspect the LCD and touchscreen. In particular you should look for any damage to the fine cables that are connected to the transducers on the corners of the touchscreen.
To refit the display or fit a new display you need to reverse the steps above but must take particular care with the mounting of the display. There is a rubber seal around the edge of the front metalwork which presses against the touchscreen to create a seal to keep dust out of the console and touchscreen. This seal must not press too firmly on the touchscreen glass or it will prevent the touchscreen from detecting touches. The correct procedure for re-fitting the LCD is as follows:-
Lay the LCD onto the metalwork and positioning it approximately. Check
the orientation is correct with the socket for the LVDS cable being at the bottom edge of the module.
Sit the LCD mounting brackets in place over the 6 x M4 studs and
carefully move the LCD to align the 4 slots (4 each side) with the mounting holes in the LCD.
Wires and
Sensors
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Fit 4 x M3 screws that support the LCD through the slots in the LCD
support brackets. Leave these screws loose enough that the LCD can slide up and down in the slots.
Fit the 6 x M4 nuts to secure the LCD support brackets on each side.
Tighten these nuts firmly.
LCD Mounting
Brackets Sitting
In Place
Holes Aligned
M4 Nuts (x4)
Fitted Tightly
Second
LCD Mounting
Brackets
LCD Mounting
Screws Fitted
Loosely First
(Both Sides)
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Now ensure that gravity is the only thing pressing the display down onto
the front metalwork. You can do this by pushing the LCD up from underneath with your fingers and making sure it sits back down onto the rubber seal under its own weight. Do not force it up or down. If it won’t move you may need to loosen the M3 screws. This will ensure the pressure on the rubber seal is minimal.
Now tighten the 4 x M3 screws that secure the display into the mounting
brackets.
Mount the LCD support bracket in place and tighten the 2 x M3 screws
first and then the 2 x M3 nuts. Not these studs fit into a slot on the bracket so the bracket can be adjusted to ensure the rubber sits against the LCD without applying excessive pressure.
Note: Some early model Tango consoles did not include this LCD support bracket. However, if your console was supplied with this bracket you MUST re-fit this bracket to prevent any damage to the LCD in transit.
You may now reverse the remaining steps above to re-fit the inverter, LCDENC PCB, USB socket and knobs. When fitting the knobs, ensure they are not fitted too low on the shaft. These devices have a switch in them and the knob needs clearance to allow this switch to be depressed. Before fitting the upper module into the console it is suggested that you connect the display to the console and test the touchscreen to ensure you have completed this step correctly.
NOTE: The attachment of the glass touchscreen to the LCD is a tricky process and should not be attempted in the field. The LCD and touchscreen will be supplied as a single unit by Smart AV.
10. LOWER MODULE DISSASSEMBLY
Once the lower module has been removed from the console it can be disassembled as follows.
Using a 1.5mm Allen Key, remove the knobs from the lower module by
loosening the grub screws. The jogger wheel can remain in place.
Remove the ribbon cable.
Disconnect the 8 faders and the motorized pot from the HKPID PCB.
Note the connections for re-connection.
Disconnect the 4pin power cable from the HKLOW (Main) PCB.
Disconnect the blue Ethernet cable from the PANCPU PCB.
Remove the 5 x M3 screws securing the HKPID PCB and remove this
PCB.
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If you need to replace one or more faders, this can be done at this point. If you wish to remove the main PCB you will need to remove all faders before proceeding.
Pull off the fader cap from the top side. These are a tight fit.
Remove the screws securing the fader from the top surface and remove
the fader.
Replace the fader with a new unit and check that it slides without
interference.
Continue disassembly as follows.
Remove the 5 x M3 screws securing the HKLOW (Edit Panel) PCB.
Remove the 23 x M3 screws securing the HKLOW (Main) PCB.
The 2 PCB sections can now be removed together. You should not
attempt to remove these 2 PCBs separately.
Once the PCBs are removed they can be carefully separated at the joining
connector.
To remove the motorized pot from the PCB, remove the nut from the top
side of the PCB. Take care with orientation when reassembling.
Once the PCB is removed, the Solo and Inject touch points are accessible.
If they need servicing they can be removed by unscrewing each nut on the rear of the PCB. These touch points do not need to be removed to get the main PCB out.
The steps above can now be simply reversed to assemble the module. When fitting the knobs, ensure they are not fitted too low on the shaft. These devices have a switch in them and the knob needs clearance to allow this switch to be depressed.
HKLOW
(Edit)
HKLOW
(Main)
HKPID
PANCPU
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Replacing the PANCPU can be done without any disassembly of the module. Simply remove the 2 screws from the PANCPU and disconnect the blue Ethernet cable. Now you can carefully pull the PANCPU clear of the 120way connector. This connector is fragile so take extra care with it during assembly and disassembly.
11. DISPLAY (LCD) HARDWARE
Graphics problems with the console can be divided into 2 categories, hardware problems or driver / configuration problems. When the console first boots, the BIOS will display the message “Console Starting. Please Wait……..” in a diamond shape. If you can see this message clearly then the display hardware is most likely OK and you should proceed to section 3 to resolve a graphics driver properties problem. If the display is blank, fuzzy or a series of striped lines during this stage of bootup you also need to check the hardware as detailed below.
The console LCD is a 22” (16:9) unit. It has a separate inverter PCB for driving the backlight. The graphics are driven directly from the PC via a digital LVDS bus.
The backlight is powered on as soon as the console power button is pressed, resulting in a white illumination to the LCD for a few seconds. If the display does not light up (assuming the rest of the console powers up - indicated by a beep from the motherboard as it boots) then there is a problem with the backlight. Without the backlight the display will remain black, even after the console boots up. Check the backlight hardware as follows.
Locate the inverter PCB and check and re-seat the 4 backlight cables from the
inverter to the LCD backlights.
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Check and reseat the inverter power cable from the internal PC (JBKL) to the
inverter.
Measure the voltages at the inverter end of the inverter power cable and
check the voltages as follows.
Pin Signal Voltage
1 12V 12V 4 GND 0V 9 SLEEP 5V
11 BRIGHTNESS 0V
Backlight Cables
Inverter Power Cable
Connector
Inverter (JBKL)
Connector
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If all voltages are correct, replace the inverter PCB. If the voltages are
incorrect you need to check the cable, power supply and motherboard to determine the cause.
If the display only illuminated in sections, the backlight is only partially working. The backlight is made up of 4 fluorescent tubes and any 1 of the 4 could fail individually. The fault could also be with the inverter.
Swap 2 adjacent backlight cable connections and confirm whether the fault
follows the actual backlight in the display or the inverter channel.
If the fault is with the inverter, replace the inverter PCB.
If the fault is with the backlight itself, swap the display (see section 9).
A few seconds after the backlight illuminates, the display should display a logo (occupying the full screen) stating “Console Starting. Please wait…” (CSPW) within a few seconds of startup. If this is not displayed, check that the motherboard actually booted which is indicated by a short beep. If there is no beep, the problem is with the motherboard or a power problem. If you hear the beep but the CSPW image is not displayed (or is displayed as a mess of white lines or is the wrong size or resolution) there is a problem with the display hardware or console BIOS. You will need to open the console and proceed as follows.
NOTE: If you see this “Console Starting. Please Wait….” Logo, this indicates that your display hardware is OK. If you then don’t see the Tango display, the problem is more likely a Windows driver problem. See section 3 for more details. If you do see the Tango display but the colours are wrong or it has vertical stripes over it you will need to try reseating the LVDS cable as described below.
Locate the LVDS connector on the LCD. Check and re-seat this connector
making sure there are no damaged pins. Take extra care as this connector is fragile. Note that the metallic surface of the LVDS connector should be facing the LCD monitor (the polarity of this connection is difficult to see).
Locate the LVDS connector on the motherboard (JLVDS). Check and re-
seat this connector making sure there are no damaged pins. Take extra care as this connector is fragile.
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If you reseat the cable and still don’t see the CSPW image you should check the console BIOS as follows:-
Locate the VGA connector and connect an external monitor to the console.
LVDS Connector
LVDS (JLVDS)
Connector
VGA
Connector
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Boot the console and confirm that this external monitor displays the
CSPW” screen. If it does not you have another type of problem. Check the power supply or the motherboard.
Reboot the console
Press the “Del” key repeatedly while the CSPW message is being
displayed.
The BIOS window will eventually be displayed. Select the “Standard
CMOS Features” menu option.
Under the “Boot Display” menu item, make sure “CRT+LFP(LVDS)” is
selected.
Under the “Panel Type” menu item, make sure “1680x1050 24/2” is
selected.
Press “F10” and then “Y” and <enter> to save these settings.
If you have checked the LVDS connections and the BIOS settings as described above but you still don’t see the CSPW image you will need to try replacing hardware. Try replacing the following components in this order, LVDS cable, LCD then motherboard.
Finally, if your display shows the CSPW screen normally, but has the wrong resolution or rotation once you enter Windows, you will need to check the Windows drivers (see section 3).
12. TOUCHSCREEN HARDWARE
The touchscreen consists of both a hardware components and a Windows driver. If you find that the touchscreen fails to operate, the first step is to check the settings in the driver (see section 4) and try to perform a calibration. You should also try cleaning the touchscreen (damp cloth) and bezel area (compressed air) as directed in the user manual before proceeding. If the screen is excessively dirty around the bezel you may need to remove the display from the console to clean this bezel area properly by following the notes in section 9.
If you have touchscreen problems you should first follow the notes in section 4 to ensure it is not driver related. If it is not, the next step is to check the touch status LED inside the console. The LED is blue and can be seen by looking into the console through the cooling slots on the top rear of the upper module. The touch
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding with any touchscreen repairs you should ensure the display is thoroughly cleaned as per the notes in installation guide. This must include cleaning around the bezel area using compressed air. Dust in this bezel area is a common cause of touchscreen failures .
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controller (which contains the status LED) is mounted vertically on the LH side wall (when viewed from the front) of the chassis. The image below shows the location of the LED.
The touch status LED on the controller has a number of states that will indicate if the touchscreen hardware is working correctly. Watch the LED while touching the screen and note the status as follows:-
LED Illuminates On Touch – All touch hardware working. Check drivers
and/or USB cable.
LED flashes constantly (flickers slowly) – Touch hardware is faulty.
Replace the screen and/or controller.
LED Always Off – Check cables to touch controller (no power).
To check the touchscreen hardware and cable connections, open the upper module of the console and proceed as follows.
Locate the touch cable which runs from the touchscreen to the touch
controller. Check this cable for damage and re-seat the connector where this cable connects to the controller. Look closely at the connectors to check the polarity before trying to connect (it is polarised).
Touch Status
LED
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Check the black USB cable that runs from the controller to the internal PC.
Check for any damage to the cable and re-seat the connector where this cable connects to the controller.
Trace this USB cable and locate the in-line join. Check and re-seat this join.
Trace this USB cable further and locate the Touch Power Connector and the
connection to the internal PC. Check and re-seat both these connections.
If you have checked the driver and all the touchscreen connections you will need to try removing the display from the console as detailed in section 9. With the display (including touchscreen) out of the console, lay it carefully on the bench and reconnect it to the console. Power up the console and test the touchscreen on the bench. If the display now functions correctly the problem was most likely that there was a foreign particle between the glass and metal bezel or else the display was fitted too tightly to the metal bezel (it may have moved during a drop or in transit). Carefully follow the steps in section 9 to re-fit the display with the correct amount of pressure on the glass.
Touch
Cable
Touch
Controller
Touch Cable to
Controller Connection
Controller USB
Cable Connection
Touch USB
Cable Join
Touch Power
Connector
Touch Cable To
PC Connection
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If the touschscreen still fails once out of the console you need to try replacing the touchscreen or the touch controller. You can look for damage on the actual touchscreen unit by checking the small wires and sensors that are fitted to 3 corners of the display. Any damage here will mean the display needs replacing. To disassemble the upper module and replace the screen, refer to the notes in section 9. The complete assembly of LCD and touchscreen should be replaced as one unit.
If your touchscreen randomly fails after a console reboot or power-up it may be suffering from a bug which existed in some early consoles. To prevent these random failures, download the “Sizelock” bug fix from the Smart AV website and apply this fix to your console.
13. USB PORTS
There are 3 USB ports on the console, 2 on the rear connector panel and 1 on the top of the LCD section, adjacent to the power button. These ports are intended for the connection of a keyboard, mouse, USB memory stick or a Tango Extension Bay only. Other devices may not be supported. Problems with a USB device not connecting to the console could be driver or hardware related.
Note: The motherboard in Tango is a lower power design and does not support high power USB devices. You will likely experience problems trying to connect USB powered devices such as KVM boxes, USB hubs, illuminated keyboards, etc.
If a particular device does not appear to work in a particular port you should try another port or try connecting a basic mouse that you know is working on another machine. A simple optical mouse should not experience driver problems and thus if this mouse still does not work (it should at least illuminate) you probably have a hardware problem.
Hardware problems will require the console to be opened to provide access to the internal cables.
The 2 lower USB ports on the rear connector panel are connected directly to the motherboard. They should be connected to the header marked “JUSB”. Check that this connection has not come loose and try reseating the connector. There is no orientation to “JUSB” and thus the connector can be fitted either way around. Make sure the 10 pins of the header and connector are aligned though.
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The upper USB port adjacent to the power switch is connected to the motherboard via an extension cable. Check and re-seat the connection between the USB cable and the USB extension cable. You may also like to try connecting your mouse directly to the extension cable at this join point to see on which side of the join the problem is occurring.
Now check and re-seat the connection from the USB extension cable to the motherboard. You may also like to try connecting your mouse directly to the motherboard (the motherboard has a standard USB connector here) to ensure the motherboard and Windows drivers are indeed working correctly.
REAR USB
SOCKETS
JUSB
HEADER
USB EXT
CABLE
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14. LOWER FADER PCB (HKLOW)
The lower fader PCB (HKLOW) contains all the controls around the faders on the lower module of the console (except the faders themselves). This PCB is broken into 2 parts HKLOW (Main) and HKLOW (Edit Panel). The PANCPU which contains the main processor (running the firmware) for the user interface controls is mounted on the HKLOW PCB.
If a touch point is simply stuck on or off, try checking for any foreign particles obstructing the touch point. Then power cycle the console, leaving it off for 30 seconds. This may clear the problem. Note that if the console is powered on with anything touching a touch sensitive control, that control may behave erratically. This is due to the fact that the touch circuits perform a calibration on power up.
If a single control or LED (or group of controls / LEDs) on this PCB is faulty it is likely to be a fault with this PCB and thus it will need to be replaced or repaired.
UPPER USB
SOCKET
USB EXT
CABLE
JOIN
HKLOW
(Edit Panel)
HKLOW
(Main)
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Try disconnecting the ribbon cable. If this fixes the problem, then the fault is actually on the ribbon cable or the HKPID or LCDENC PCBs.
If the entire PCB appears dead then it could be a number of things.
Check for power on this module. The main power cable should be connected and the LED on the PANCPU should be illuminated. Check for power on this cable (Yellow = 12V, Red = 5V). Lack of power may mean a PSU problem elsewhere. If you disconnect this cable and measure a voltage from the PSU, it may indicate a short circuit on the HKLOW PCB which is shutting off the PSU.
Check the “talk1” LED on the top left corner of this PCB. If it starts flashing within 15 seconds of power on, the HKLOW PCB is operating correctly but has no network connection to the Tango software. Check the network setup (section
20) and make sure the Tango software is all running correctly.
If the power LED on the PANCPU is ON but there is no activity on the HKLOW PCB (not even a flashing “talk1” LED) then the problem is most likely with the PANCPU or the firmware. Try changing the PANCPU or see sections 17 and 18 for help in debugging PANCPU / Firmware problems.
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15. UPPER ENCODER PCB (LCDENC)
The upper encoder PCB (labelled as LCDENC) contains the 16 encoders that are on the RHS of the LCD. If any of the encoders or their associated switches or touch points fail it is likely to be a problem with this PCB. The procedure or removing this PCB is outlined in section 9.
If a touch point is simply stuck on or off, try checking for any foreign particles obstructing the knob or encoder shaft. Then power cycle the console, leaving it off for 30 seconds. This may clear the problem. Note that if the console is powered on with anything touching a touch sensitive control, that control may behave erratically. This is due to the fact that the touch circuits perform a calibration on power up.
If a single control on this PCB is faulty it is likely to be a fault with this PCB and thus it will need to be replaced or repaired.
If the entire PCB is not working but the controls on the HKLOW PCB are working, it is likely to be a problem with the internal ribbon cable that connects this PCB to the others.
If the LCDENC, HKLOW and Faders (HKPID) are all acting erratically (or dead) then the problem could be with any one of the 3 PCBs or with the power to the HKLOW PCB (it is the source of the power for the LCDENC) or a problem on the PANCPU (including firmware).
16. FADERS + HKPID PCB
The faders and the motorized pot are all driven by the HKPID PCB which is located in the lower module. Any problem with the operation of the faders or motorpot is likely to be a problem with this PCB. The HKPID PCB is pictured below.
Note that if the HKPID PCB is swapped for any reason the fader calibration procedure will need to be completed (see section 24).
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In a situation where all 8 faders and the motorized pot fail to operate (while the controls on the HKLOW still operate normally), you should check the main power cable to the HKPID (soldered to the HKPID) which brings power from the power supply. Alternately you should check the ribbon cable that interfaces the HKPID to the LCDENC and the HKLOW.
If only individual faders are failing there are a few potential causes.
A fader connector may have come loose or the fader cable could be damaged. Check the cables and re-seat the connectors.
The fader could be stuck in a touched state (moves freely but cannot be driven by its motor) or an untouched state (fights you when you try to move it). In either case, try checking for any foreign particles obstructing the fader knob. Then power cycle the console, leaving it off for 30 seconds. This may clear the problem. Note that if the console is powered on with anything touching a touch sensitive control, that control may behave erratically. This is due to the fact that the touch circuits perform a calibration on power up.
The fader or the individual drive circuit (one per fader) on the HKPID may have failed. Try swapping the connections for 2 adjacent faders on the HKPID (choose one working and one not working channel). This will identify if the fault follows the fader (identifying a faulty fader) or the HKPID channel (identifying a faulty HKPID). Then replace the fader or HKPID PCB accordingly.
HKPID
Power
HKPID
PCB
Ribbon
Cable
Fader
Fader Connector
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17. PANCPU / FIRMWARE
The PANCPU PCB is the main processor PCB for all the PCBs containing user interface components in the console. The processor on this PCB runs the console firmware as opposed to the software running on the internal PC. The firmware is based on the uClinux operating system. If ALL your user interface components are dead (faders, encoders, switches, LEDs and touch points) then the PANCPU and firmware is the prime suspect. To debug / fix problems with the PANCPU / Firmware, proceed as follows.
Firstly check what user interface components are working and controlling
parameters on the Tango software. If some of the components are working correctly, then problem is most likely elsewhere. Try following the chapter/s of the manual on the specific section/s of the console that is/are failing.
If ALL user interface components appear dead, proceed as follows.
First check that the Tango software is running OK (make sure it has not
crashed or frozen up by performing some actions on the touch screen only or with a mouse).
If the software is OK, shutdown the Tango software (this is important for the
next step - see section 2) and check the “talk1” LED on the top LH corner of the lower module. If this LED is flashing, the firmware and PANCPU are most likely OK. It would appear there is a problem with the Tango software or with the Console network. Follow the notes in section 20 to test and debug the console network. If you can’t find any other reason for the console network to be failing you will need to try replacing the PANCPU. If the console network appears to be working OK (if you can ping 10.10.11.1), re­check that the Tango software is working OK.
If the “talk1” LED is not flashing (with the Tango software shutdown) then you need to proceed as follows:-
Talk1 LED Flashing
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Open the console and check for the power LED on the PANCPU. If the
LED is not on, check the power supply and cabling to the HKLOW PCB (main lower PCB).
Run the UDPSER application on the console from
C:\TESTING\APPS\udpser\udpser.exe
Press the reset button on the PANCPU (see image above).
You should now see the “bootloader” displayed in the UDPSER window.
The text should look as displayed below and end with a “PANCPU>” prompt. If this does not happen, you need to replace the PANCPU PCB. If you do see the text as shown below you should go to the next chapter and try to reprogram (rescue) your firmware.
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18. FIXING CORRUPT FIRMWARE
Note: A more detailed version of this procedure with additional images is available on the Smart AV dealer downloads website.
Under extreme circumstances, the firmware on Tango can become corrupted and as a result the user interface components of the console will fail to work. This problem will commonly be experienced if the power to the console is interrupted during a firmware update.
If the PANCPU appears to have power (power LED is on) but the “talk1” LED is not flashing (Tango software must be shutdown for this test – see section 2) then either the PANCPU is faulty or the firmware has been corrupted. Proceed as follows to track down this problem leaving the console software shutdown.
Open the console and check for the power LED on the PANCPU. If the
LED is not on, check the power supply and cabling to the HKLOW PCB (main lower PCB).
Talk1 LED Flashing
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Run the UDPSER application on Tango from
C:\TESTING\APPS\udpser\udpser.exe
Press the reset button on the PANCPU (see image above).
You should now see the “bootloader” displayed in the UDPSER window.
The text should look as displayed below and end with a “PANCPU>” prompt. If this does not happen, you need to replace the PANCPU PCB or else check your console network connections from the PANCPU to hub and hub to internal PC (make sure network LEDs are on for all devices). If you do see the text as shown below you are ready to try to reprogram (rescue) your firmware.
Run the TFTPD32 application on Tango from
C:\TESTING\APPS\tftpd\tftpd32.exe Check that the settings are as shown below for “Base Directory” and “Server Interface”.
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Now in the UDPSER window, type “tg” and <enter> at the PANCPU> prompt. You will see a file upload progress bar and after several seconds some additional text (## Starting…..) will appear in the UDPSER window as shown below. If this does not occur, check to make sure there is a file called image.bin in the C:\TESTING\APPS\tftpd directory.
Check and make sure the “talk1” LED is now flashing. This means the
firmware is now running OK so there are no problems with the PANCPU or other hardware. However at this point the firmware is only running from RAM and thus will be lost on the next power cycle if you don’t follow the remaining steps.
Alt-Tab to the Console Monitor application and check all 3 Auto Start
checkboxes to restart the console software (see section 2 above).
Once the Tango software starts up, follow the standard procedure from
the user manual to reprogram the firmware. The software may inform you that the firmware is up to date but you will need to select “Overwrite” anyway as the firmware is currently only in RAM and not programmed into the flash memory.
19. POWER SUPPLY MODULES
There are 2 major power supply components in the console, the internal ATX DC-DC module and the external AC-DC PSU. In addition there are a number of other parts of the console which affect the power supply.
The ON/OFF state of the console is controlled by the internal motherboard the same way a standard PC operates. The momentary power switch on the rear of the console is connected to the motherboard. The motherboard uses this switch and the shutdown button in the Tango software to control the power state by switching the PWR-ON signal to the ATX DC-DC. An over-riding ON/OFF switch is located on the external AC-DC PSU.
The best way to identify that the console has power is to watch for the LCD illuminating (all white) immediately after the power button is depressed and
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then waiting for a beep a few seconds later. If your console fails to power on you will need to proceed as follows:-
Check the mains cable to the AC-DC PSU is connected to the mains and has
power.
Ensure the main power switch on the AC-DC PSU is in the ON position.
Check the voltages on the pins of the round 4pin power plug from the AC-DC
PSU. They should be as shown below.
+Vo = 12V
Check the AC-DC PSU is connected to the console correctly via the round
4pin power plug.
Open the console to access the internal PSU components.
Check the internal power cable from the rear connectors to CN1 of the ATX
DC-DC. Reseat the connector on the ATX DC-DC.
Measure the voltage on the 2 large round pads behind CN1 on the ATX DC-
DC. It should measure 12V.
ATX DC-DC
CN1
CN4 ATXPWR
PWR Switch
Cable
JFP
Header
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Check the 24way power cable (not shown in image) from CN4 of the ATX
DC-DC to the ATXPWR connector of the internal PC. Reseat the connector at both ends (some units will have the cable soldered at the ATX DC-DC end).
Check the cable running from the power switch to the internal PC. This cable
should be connected to Pins 9 and 11 of the JFP connector on the PC (pin 1 is indicated with an arrow – pins 9 and 11 are adjacent to R14 and R17). Check this connection.
Use a multimeter to check the main power switch and cable.
At this point you have checked all components that should affect the motherboard sending a power on signal to the ATX DC-DC. If you still don’t have any power, proceed as follows.
Disconnect the 2 x 4pin HDD power connectors coming out of the ATX DC-
DC.
Remove the cable from the ATXPWR connector of the motherboard.
The power supply is now fully disconnected from all console components.
Using a jumper wire, momentarily connect the green wire with any black
wire in the cable harness coming from CN4 of the ATX DC-DC. This should force the PSU to power on.
Measure the voltages on any of the cables coming from the ATX DC-DC to
confirm that it is functioning correctly. Measure all voltages between coloured wire shown and black (GND). Voltages should be as follows.
Orange +3V3 Red +5V Yellow +12V Blue -12V Purple +5V (Standby)
If the voltages are all OK then the problem is most likely with the internal PC (not controlling the start-up) or with the power switch and wiring (checked above). Another possibility is that one of the console components has failed and is shorting out the PSU, stopping it from powering up. Try powering the console on with various components disconnected such as the LCD, Touchscreen, Hub and the control surface PCBs (HKLOW, HKPID, etc).
If any voltages are missing, the ATX DC-DC is faulty and will need replacement.
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20. NETWORK PROBLEMS
The console contains 2 distinct networks. One network (engine) provides a connection from the console to the DAW while the other network (console) provides internal connections between the various components of the console and extension bays. The settings for the engine network are configurable by the user from within the Tango software while the console network settings are fixed and should not be changed for any reason.
Engine Network
If you are having problems with the engine network the first step is to follow the setup information in the Tango user guide to ensure you have your Tango and DAW network settings correct. If you have followed this guide and still have problems you can proceed as follows.
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Command
Prompt” from the start menu (or select run and type “cmd” then <enter>).
At the prompt type “ipconfig” and then press <enter>
You should now see a window like that shown below. Under the heading “Ethernet Adaptor Engine” you should see the network settings you setup within Tango. If you do not, you need to try this setup within Tango again.
If you don’t see the “Ethernet Adaptor Engine” at all then you probably have a problem with the Windows driver for this network adaptor. Some notes on the windows network drivers are below.
If you see the message “Media Disconnected”, you do not have a connection from the console PC to your DAW. First re-check all your external console –
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DAW network connections, in particular making sure the DAW is connected to the console port marked “Engine”. If this all checks out then you need to open the console and proceed checking the hardware as follows.
Open the console to access the internal PC.
Locate the “Engine” ENET port on the internal PC and look for a green LED
above the connector. The green LED would indicate a physical connection does exit. If it does, check the “ipconfig” command again.
Re-seat the Engine ENET cable that runs between the rear of the console and
the internal PC. Disconnect and reconnect both ends just to be sure. Once the connection is fixed you will see the green LED illuminate.
Try connecting your external DAW network cable directly to the Engine
ENET Port on the PC. If this works then you have a problem with your internal network cable or the connectors on the rear of the console.
If you still have no success, you possibly have a problem with the console PC
itself. Check the notes on drivers at the bottom of this section or else replace the motherboard.
Console Network
Problems with the console network would be exhibited as a lack of communications between the Tango software and the console hardware. You can confirm there is a problem here by performing a “ping” as follows.
Engine Port
(Rear)
Engine Port
(PC)
Engine ENET Cable
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Check that the “talk1” LED is flashing on the console or that some other LEDs
are on. If there is no LED activity you have other problems with the console hardware that need to be resolved first.
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Command
Prompt” from the start menu (or select run and type “cmd” then <enter>).
At the prompt type “ping 10.10.11.1” and then press <enter>. This is the IP
address of the console hardware.
You should see a successful ping such as “Reply from 10.10.11.1” etc. If not,
you have console network problems.
If you are having problems with the console network you should proceed as follows.
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Command
Prompt” from the start menu (or select run and type “cmd” then <enter>).
At the prompt type “ipconfig” and then press <enter>
You should now see a window like that shown below. Under the heading “Ethernet Adaptor Console” you should see the network settings exactly as shown below. If the IP Address or Subnet Mask is incorrect, they need to be fixed as shown in the Windows Network Drivers section below.
If you don’t see the “Ethernet Adaptor Engine” at all then you probably have a problem with the Windows driver for this network adaptor. Some notes on the windows network drivers are below.
If you see the message “Media Disconnected”, you do not have a connection from the internal PC to the internal hub or the hub has now power. You will need to open the console and proceed checking the hardware as follows.
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Open the console to access the internal PC.
Locate the “Console” ENET port on the internal PC and look for a green LED
above the connector. The green LED would indicate a physical connection does exit from the PC to the network hub. If it does, check the “ipconfig” command again.
Check for power on the network hub which will be indicated by a green
power LED. If not, check the power cables to the hub. You may need to refer to the power supply section to check the console power supply is working correctly.
Re-seat the Console ENET cable that runs between the network hub and the
internal PC. Disconnect and reconnect both ends just to be sure. Once the connection is fixed you will see the green LED illuminate on both the PC and hub.
Try using a new cable to make this connection.
If the settings displayed by the “ipconfig” command are correct but you still have a console network problem the problem may be between the network hub and the console hardware.
Open the console to access the internal PC.
Re-seat the ENET cable that runs between the network hub and the PANCPU.
Disconnect and reconnect both ends just to be sure. Once the connection is fixed you will see the green LED illuminate on both the PANCPU (next to the network connector) and hub.
Try using a new cable to make this connection.
Console Port
(PC)
Hub
Hub Power Cable
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Windows Network Drivers
If you suspect your network problems are Windows Driver related you can try the following steps to identify the problem.
On the keyboard, press the “Windows” key and then select “Control
Panel” from the start menu.
From the control panel select “Network Connections”. The following
window should open.
You should see the 2 ports shown, “Console” and “Engine”. If either is
missing the driver needs to be re-installed or more likely the hardware on the internal PC has failed. Please contact Smart AV.
The status column should show “Connected” or “Network cable
unplugged” for the engine only if you are not connected to a DAW.
If the status shows “Disabled” you need to right click on that device and
select “Enable”.
Either port can be reset by a right click and select “Disable”, followed by a
right click and selecting “Enable” again. This is a good trick to try if all else fails.
PANCPU
Console Port
(PANCPU)
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If your console IP address and Subnet mask settings are displayed wrong by the “ipconfig” command, you can reset them as follows.
Right click on the Console port and select “Properties.
Select “Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)” and click “Properties.
Enter the IP address and Subnet mask as shown below and click OK. The
console IP address should now be correct.
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21. HARD DISK
The console software runs off a 2.5” laptop style hard disk (HDD) located within the console. The image below shows the location of the HDD. It is fastened to a mounting plate via 4 small vibration damping screws. To remove the HDD from the console, remove the 4 screws from the mounting plate, disconnect the cable and lift the whole assembly clear of the console. Then the HDD can be separated from the plate by removing another 4 screws under the plate.
The HDD is connected to the motherboard via a 44pin IDE ribbon cable. This cable and it’s connection points are also shown in the image below. If you remove the HDD or this cable, take note of the orientation of the connectors.
HDD
MOUNTING
PLATE
IDE
CABLE
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The HDD is a standard component and thus any 2.5” IDE HDD will work and fit the mountings in the console. However, if a HDD is sourced from an alternate supplier, care must be taken to select a model that is not too noisy. The best option is to source a HDD from Smart AV. You must remember that the HDD contains the operating system (Windows) and the console software so if a new HDD is installed, all this software must be copied onto the new disk.
If your console will not boot, there is a good chance the problem is HDD related. If the boot sequence stops during the BIOS there is likely a hardware problem with the disk or cable. You can check if the BIOS can detect the HDD as follows:-
Reboot the console
Press the “Del” key repeatedly while the “Console Starting” message is
being displayed.
The BIOS window will eventually be displayed. Select the “Standard
CMOS Features” menu option.
Under the “IDE Secondary Master” menu item, check that a HDD is
detected. If it reads [ NONE ] then the HDD is not detected.
If the BIOS can not detect the HDD you need to check the internal cabling from the motherboard to the HDD. Check and re-seat the connectors and look for any visible damage to the cable.
If this still does not work the HDD may be damaged, the cable could be damaged, the BIOS could have been changed by someone (THIS SHOULD NOT
M/BOARD
IDE
CONNECTOR
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BE DONE) or the motherboard may be damaged. Try another HDD or cable first and see if the BIOS will detect it (you should see it in the BIOS, even if it is a blank HDD so this is a good first test with any HDD). Otherwise you may need to contact Smart AV to check the BIOS settings.
If the BIOS can detect the HDD but the console still doesn’t boot, the problem is probably corrupted Windows files on the HDD. Refer section 22 for details.
22. WINDOWS CORRUPTION / RE-LOADING
This section covers problems with the Windows operating system itself. If your problem is associated with the Tango software applications themselves (Iggy, Arcadia (MonARC section) or Sassi (main window display engine) you should proceed to the next section of this manual.
The console operating system is either Windows XP Home (serial numbers 1001 –
1114) or Windows Embedded Standard (serial number 1115 onwards) and as such could be affected by any of the standard problems experienced by Windows users such as system file corruption. If the console is shutdown correctly each time it is unlikely but continual powering-off without shutting down Windows properly is one cause of such issues. Trying to install drivers or other software that is not recommended by Smart AV may also cause corruptions with Windows.
There are many potential causes for issues with Windows and they are outside the scope of this manual. If you are familiar with Windows you can follow Microsoft’s recommendations for repairing your Windows installation using techniques such as “Safe Mode” or using Windows Restore Points (a “Factory Default” restore point is configured by Smart AV in the factory). There are more notes on using the Restore Points available for download from the Smart AV dealer downloads webpage.
If the BIOS displays an error message indicating there is no HDD present when you attempt to boot then the first step is to check that the HDD is functioning correctly and being detected by the console PC (see section 21).
On boot you may encounter a message stating that Windows was not shutdown correctly and providing you with a number of options as follows:-
Safe Mode Safe Mode With Networking Safe Mode With Command Prompt
Last Known Good Configuration
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Start Windows Normally
After 30 seconds “Start Windows Normally” will be selected by default and your console should boot normally. You can also hit <enter> on your keyboard to skip the 30 second wait.
If the Windows operating system has been corrupted to a point where it cannot be rectified using any of the above suggestions, the complete Windows HDD image can be downloaded and re-installed on the console. The files are available on the Smart AV dealer downloads webpage, including a detailed procedure. There are 2 files, one for Windows XP Home (700MB) and one for Windows Embedded Standard (500MB). The process involves downloading an image file, installing the image onto a USB flash disk and then booting the console from this USB disk and restoring the original image to the console. For an XP Home image, once restored the original Windows Product Key will need to be re­entered so that Windows can be activated again. The whole process (excluding download time) is likely to take about 1 hour. Once complete you console will be restored to the way it left the factory, meaning you will need to re-install any new software versions and re-configure the console for your DAW.
WARNING: You must download the correct operating system image for the console you are trying to restore (Windows Embedded Standard or Windows XP Home). Installing the incorrect image could put your console in breach of Microsoft copyright laws and render your console un-useable at some point in the future.
WARNING: If you are running Windows XP Home you must follow the steps to enter the Windows Product Key specific to your console. Failure to do so could put your console in breach of Microsoft copyright laws and render your console un-useable at some point in the future.
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23. TANGO SOFTWARE CORRUPTION / RE-LOADING
The Tango console runs a number of custom software applications developed by Smart AV. You can identify these applications by un-hiding the taskbar or using Alt+Tab to display them as shown below. The applications should include:-
Arcadia (MonARC)
Sassi (Main Display Window)
Iggy
Console Monitor
If any of these applications are missing (most likely crashed) or are displaying strange error messages you should try to reboot the console. You may also notice this type of problem if sections of the console display are constantly blank (ie MonARC missing, the system menu is missing or the main display area / channel strips are missing). If the problems persist you most likely have corrupted software or configuration files and should follow the notes below to return to the default configuration or re-load the software onto the console.
If the following error message is displayed, you most likely have corrupted configuration files and should proceed as follows. If you are not seeing this particular error message but still have software corruption you should skip this step and proceed with the following steps to re-install the software files.
ARCADIA SASSI IGGY
CONSOLE MONITOR
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Touch the “Use Previous Version” button to restore you configuration files to a previously saved version. The software will now restart. If you have recently made any configuration changes to your console, you may need to repeat these changes.
If the same error message is displayed again, try touching the “Use Factory Defaults” button. The software will now restart. This will return the software configuration to the factory default settings. You will now need to follow the installation guide to re-configure your console for your DAW.
If you still observe this error message you will need to shutdown the software and re-install the software files by following the steps below.
The “Manual Configuration” button should only be used if instructed by Smart AV technical support.
To re-install all the software files you will need to connect a keyboard/mouse and shutdown any software that is still running as shown in sections 1 and 2 of this manual. The next step is to copy a fresh set of software files onto your Tango. If you are using 2.3.4 software (or later) you can do so using Console Monitor as follows:-
Alt+Tab to the Console Monitor application.
Click on the “Tools” button to open the Console Monitor Tools
ERROR MESSAGE
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From the “Install Console Software” window, drop down the list and
select the software version that you were running.
Click the “Install” button to copy the files.
Click the X to close the Console monitor Tools.
If you are using software earlier than 2.3.4 you can do the copy manually as follows:-
Obtain a copy of the console software version that you are currently
using. This will be a file of the format:
Consolesoft 2.3.4.503 2009.05.14 Tango .zip
A copy of this file is saved on the Tango console at the following location:
C:\Program Files\SmartAV\Archive
PRESS TOOLS
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Unzip this file and copy the entire contents of the file to the following
directory on your Tango console. Overwrite the existing files at this location.
C:\Program Files\SmartAV\Smart Console
Now attempt to restart the software applications by re-checking the boxes in the Console Monitor application. Once the software restarts, if you again see the following error message you must again touch the “Use Factory Defaults” button.
If this does not resolve your problems you will need to contact Smart AV technical support.
24. FADER CALIBRATION
If you replace the PANCPU PCB, HKPID PCB or an individual fader or you see some inaccuracies in the fader pointers relative to the db markings on the console surface, you will need to perform a fader calibration as follows:-
Choose RUN from the START menu in Windows. Type 'cmd' into the
RUN window and hit ‘Enter’. A DOS command prompt window will open. To calibrate the faders, proceed as follows:-.
Choose run from the “Start” menu and select “Run” to open the “Run”
window.
Type “cmd” into the run window and hit <enter> and a DOS window
will open.
In the DOS window type “telnet 10.10.11.1” and hit <enter>. If you are
calibrating a Passive Extension Bay use 10.10.12.1.
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You will be prompted to login. Type “user” and <enter>.
You will be prompted for a password. Type <enter> (no password).
Type “/sbin/su” <enter> and then <enter> (no password).
Type “killpan” <enter>
Type “motpiddrv_test” <enter>
Type “C” <enter> (note capital C). This will take you into the calibration
application.
You now need to use the number keys on the keyboard to move each
fader to the –INFINITY mark on the console surface. Use the key indicated to move the faders up and shift + key to move the faders down. The keys are assigned to faders as follows:-
Fader 1 Fader 2 Fader 3
-
­2 Fader 8
For an extension bay the assignment is:-
= Fader 1
- Fader 2
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0 Fader 3 9 Fader 4
-
­1 Fader 12
Using the keys indicated, carefully move each fader. Numbers will
appear in each column as you adjust the fader positions. Once you are happy with all the positions, press <enter>.
Now the screen will prompt you to move the faders to -40dB. Repeat the
above 2 steps to move all the faders to -40dB.
Repeat this process for the positions -10dB, 0dB and 10dB as prompted.
Once you finish the 10dB position you will be asked if your want to “Save
the Calibration Data”. Hit the “y” key to save the data. This will take a few minutes.
Once the data is all saved, press “q” then <enter> to exit the calibrate
application.
Type “reboot” then <enter> to restart the console firmware.
Close the cmd window by clicking on the “x” in the top RH corner.
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25. CHECKING CONSOLE START-UP SEQUENCE
The following section details the various stages of the console start-up sequence. This may be helpful in identifying and resolving any issues that prevent the console from entering the normal operating mode. The various times given are measured from the pushing of the power switch. They are approximate and the potential causes listed do not cover all possible problems, just the most common ones.
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LCD SCREEN
ILLUMINATES
(0 secs)
PWR ON
(0 secs)
CONSOLE
BEEPS
(6 secs)
“CONSOLE STARTING”
LOGO DISPLAYED
(7 secs)
FADERS JUMP + TALK1
LED FLASHES
(15 secs)
CONSOLE
BEEPS
(6 secs)
LCD DISPLAY BACKLIGHT
PROBLEM.
REFER SECTION 11
POWER PROBLEM
CHECK PSU CONNECTIONS THEN
REFER SECTION 19
MOTHERBOARD OR POWER
PROBLEM
REFER SECTION 18 OR 19
DISPLAY HW OR BIOS PROBLEM
REFER SECTION 11
NO POWER TO LOWER FADER PCB
OR FIRMWARE/PANCPU FAULT
REFER SECTIONS 14 OR 17
WIN BOOT SCREEN
(TANGO LOGO)
(16 secs)
HDD NOT DETECTED OR WIN
IMAGE CORRUPTED
REFER SECTIONS 21 OR 22
Y
N
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
N
N
N
N
N
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TANGO SOFTWARE
STARTS UP
(45 secs)
TANGO SOFTWARE
STARTUP COMPLETE
(65 secs)
WIN DISK IMAGE CORRUPTED
REFER SECTION 22
TANGO SOFTWARE PROBLEM
RE-INSTALL OR CONTACT SMART
AV
IF TALK1 FLASHING (SEE 15SECS
ABOVE) THEN CONSOLE
NETWORK PROBLEM
FADERS + UI LEDS
JUMP TO LIFE
(65 secs)
CONSOLE
BOOTUP
COMPLETE
SCREEN BLANK
(CURSOR ONLY)
(20 secs)
DESKTOP APPEARS
(TANGO LOGO)
(45 secs)
N
N
N
N
N
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
TANGO SOFTWARE PROBLEM
RE-INSTALL OR CONTACT SMART
AV
26. SYSTEM CONNECTION DIAGRAMS
The following diagrams show all the internal cable connections for the console. These will be useful in re-connecting the various cables if they have become disconnected or you are disassembling or reassembling the console.
These diagrams should be used in conjunction with the other sections of this manual.
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27. FAQ
Q. I can’t access the Windows start menu or task bar to attempt to debug a
problem.
A. Refer section 1 to connect a keyboard and mouse to the console and section 2
to close the Tango software applications. The Tango applications are set to always stay on top so you need to close them to see the Windows desktop or start menu.
Q. My console gets false touches when I am not touching the screen. A. Your touchscreen may be dirty. Check for foreign particles in the area where
the touch is detected (look for the cursor). In particular, small drops of moisture may cause false touches.
Q. When I touch the screen, the cursor does not move to my finger accurately. A. Your touchscreen needs to be re-calibrated (see section 23).
Q. My console does not detect my finger when I touch the screen. A. There is a problem with your touchscreen. Follow the procedure to clean the
screen and bezel area. Check that the touchscreen driver is enabled and configured correctly (see section 4). Alternately you may need to check the touchscreen hardware connections (see section 12). There is a status LED (visible inside the console) which will help you identify the problem.
Q. My console’s LCD is blank. A. If the “Console Starting. Please Wait…..” message is displayed on start-up
(see section 6) then the problem is most likely with the windows display settings. Try pressing Cntrl + Alt + F3 and after a few seconds the display should come back. Follow the steps in section 3 to re-set the correct graphics settings. If the display is blank at start-up then you most likely have a hardware fault (or possibly a BIOS fault which would be rare unless you have fiddled with the BIOS settings). Refer to section 11 to check the display hardware.
Q. My console does not appear to power up.
A. It is possible that the PSU to one or all sections of the console has failed. This
will be most obvious by a lack of illumination of the LCD backlight on power­up. Check the external PSU is connected to the console and to the mains. Make sure the power switch on the external PSU is in the ON position. Otherwise, see section 19 for details of potential PSU problems. Section 24 details the various stages of start-up which may also be useful in determining why your console does not power up.
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Q. One of my consoles USB ports does not work. A. Try you device in another USB port to ensure the problem is not with your
device or the drivers for this device. If it is just one port which has failed it is likely a loose connection inside the console. Refer section 13 for details.
Q. I have found a cable in my console that is not connected but I don’t know
where to re-connect it.
A. Check the system connection diagrams in section 25 to determine where the
cable connects.
Q. Some of my faders are not accurately aligning with the db marks on the
console surface.
A. Try re-calibrating your faders (see section 23).
Q. One of the touch sensitive components on my console does not respond to my
touch or is stuck in a touched state.
A. Try to power cycle you console, leaving it off for 10-15 seconds. The touch
sensitive components have a calibration algorithm which starts at power up and works continually to maintain the touch points at their optimum sensitivity. Anything in contact with a touch sensor at power up or a severe static “zap” can confuse this algorithm. A power cycle will clear this.
Q. One or a few of the controls on my console are not working. A. If this control is touch sensitive, refer to the question above. Otherwise if it is
just one control, it is most likely that particular knob or switch that has failed. If it is a few controls on the same PCB then it could be some interface electronics on the PCB that has failed. Refer to the appropriate section of this manual to check and replace the PCB that the control is located on.
Q. When I move one or more of the faders they fight me and snap back to their
previous position when I release them.
A. If the other controls on the console are working OK the fader/s is/are failing
to sense your touch. Try to power cycle you console, leaving it off for 10-15 seconds. The touch sensitive components have a calibration algorithm which starts at power up and works continually to maintain the touch points at their optimum sensitivity. Anything in contact with a touch sensor at power up or a severe static “zap” can confuse this algorithm. A power cycle will clear this. Otherwise, see section 16 to debug fader problems.
Q. When I move one or more of the faders the movement registers on the display
but the motorized function of the faders does not operate.
A. If the other controls on the console are working OK the fader/s is/are most
likely stuck in a touched state. Try to power cycle you console, leaving it off for 10-15 seconds. The touch sensitive components have a calibration
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algorithm which starts at power up and works continually to maintain the touch points at their optimum sensitivity. Anything in contact with a touch sensor at power up or a severe static “zap” can confuse this algorithm. A power cycle will clear this. Otherwise, see section 16 to debug fader problems.
Q. None of the faders are working at all, they don’t control anything when I
move them and they are unable to be driven by their motors.
A. If the other controls on the console are working OK, check the power and
ribbon cables to the HKPID PCB or try replacing the HKPID PCB.
Q. One of my faders feels very rough when I move it. A. Firstly you need to check if the fader is detecting your touch correctly. If the
touch is not detecting fully the motor in the fader may fight you intermittently, making the fader feel rough. Turn the console off and check the fader again. If it is still rough it needs to be replaced.
Q. One of my faders moves very slowly A. Something is probably jamming the fader. Check for an obstruction.
Otherwise try replacing the fader or see section 16 for details of how to determine if it is the fader or drive electronics.
Q. None of the knobs on the RHS of the LCD are working. A. If the other controls on the console are working OK , check the ribbon cable
inside the console that connects the upper and lower modules. Otherwise, see section 15 to debug/replace this PCB.
Q. None of the controls or LEDs on the lower module of the LCD are working. A. If the other controls on the console are working OK (faders and upper
encoders) , the main HKLOW PCB is most likely faulty. See section 14 to debug/replace this PCB.
Q. None of the controls on Tango are working (knobs/faders/LEDs/Switches)
but the “talk1” LED is flashing.
A. Check that the console software applications are all running and have not
crashed or frozen up. You can do this by touching the MonARC on the screen and checking that the channels change. If the software is OK you most likely have a problem with your consoles internal network. Try to ping 10.10.11.1 from the internal PC as outlined in section 20 to check the console network.
Q. None of the controls on Tango are working (knobs/faders/LEDs/Switches)
and the “talk1” LED is not flashing and no other LEDs on the console are on.
A. Check that the console software applications are all running and have not
crashed or frozen up. You can do this by touching the MonARC on the screen
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and checking that the channels change. If the software is OK you most likely have a problem with the firmware/PANCPU or with the power supply to the lower module. Open the console and check the power LED on the PANCPU to check the status of the power. Otherwise refer to section 17 to try and debug a PANCPU/firmware issue.
Q. My console appears to have power but does not appear to boot. A. There are a number of possible causes. There may be a problem with the
HDD not being detected by the motherboard (see section 21), a problem / corruption with the Windows disk image (see section 22) or a PSU failure (see section 19). It could also be a problem with the display. If you wait a minute or 2 and you see the LEDs on the fader section of the console behave as you would expect (mutes can be toggles On/Off, etc) then the console is booting OK and the problem is most likely only with the display. Section 23 details the various stages of start-up which may also be useful.
Q. There is a funny fan noise coming from my console. A. The console contains a high quality, super quiet fan on the internal CPU.
Under normal conditions you should not be able to hear the fan. If you hear fan noise the fan may have been damaged or something may be fouling the fan blades such as an internal cable or other component.
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