SixThreeZero PAVE N’TRAIL Assembly Manual

ASSEMBLY GUIDE

PAVE N ’ TR A IL

SIXTHREEZERO

We want you to love your bike as much as we do.

If you run into any issues, no matter how small,

let us know and we’ll take care of it.

OUR COMMITMENT

SIXTHREEZERO

[e-mail]

310.982.2877

Need assembly, repair, or installation assistance? He’s your guy!

Want live help? Call or email to schedule an appointment.

MEET JACOB,

OUR MECHANIC

[e-mail]

310.982.2877

Welcome to the sixthreezero experience. Now for the fun

part... the assembly.

I know, I know, we’ve all had to assemble something we’ve

bought before - a tv stand, coffee table, possibly a grill or

even a bike a time or two before. It ’s never fun, it never goes

well, you always lose a nut or a screw and by the time you’re

done, you’d rather destroy whatever it is you’ve bought

than actually use it. Well, I’m here to make sure that doesn’t

happen.

Assembly of a bike can be a fun, engaging, learning

experience. Call up a friend, ask your spouse or child, don’t

rush, and enjoy the process. Part of the fun in building your

bike is telling people “I built it all by myself.” I build bikes

almost everyday and I always learn something new. I enjoy

the process of building something from the ground up, and

I hope you will too.

The instructions were written and designed by me, so if you

have any suggestions please let me know!

Good luck,

MECHANIC / SIXTHREEZERO

A N OT E F R O M

OUR MECHANIC

Creating something wonderful with your own hands is basically the

best feeling ever. We want you to have fun building your new bike,

so there’s only a few things you need to get started.

TOOLS

YOU’LL NEED

4, 5, AND 6MM

ALLEN KEY

P H IL L IPS H E AD

SCREWDRIVER

SCISSORS

(use to cut zip ties)

15MM CRESCENT WRENCH

or use the multi-tool provided

S C HR A DER VA LV E

BICYCLE PUMP

B I CY C LE O R

AUTO GREASE

2

PENNIES

recommended

M A LL E T OR

HAMMER

Lay out all the parts in front of you.

Make sure you have all the parts before getting started.

WHAT’S IN

THE BOX?

12MM

14MM

17MM

10MM

8MM

PEDALS + REAR AXEL

15MM

13MM

9MM

F R ON T A ND R EA R

REFLECTORS

Q U IC K RE LE A SE

FRONT WHEEL

seat post is zip-tied to frame

H A ND L E B A R / F RA M E / RE A R

WHEEL AND REAR RACK SET-UP

BOX 1

ASSEMBLY

GUIDE

4, 5, AND 6MM

ALLEN KEYS

MULTI-TOOL

E X PE R IEN CE

BOOKLET

BOX 2

PEDALS

Q U IC K RE LE A SE

SKEWER

SEAT

a t ta ch e d to se at tu be

BOX 3

BOX 4

HARDWARE

pre-installed

All the names of all the parts for your bike, all in one place.

Keep this handy during assembly, and everything will go just fine.

BIKE PARTS

REFERENCE GUIDE

SUSPENSION SEAT

SEATPOST CLAMP

REAR BRAKE

CASSETTE

REAR

DERAILLEUR

WHEEL

REAR RACK

H A N D LE B AR

GRIPS

HANDLEBARS

T H R E AD L ES S S T EM
& STEERER TUBE

BRAKE LEVER

REFLECTOR

INDEX SHIFTER

FRONT BRAKE ARMS

SUSPENSION LOCK

FRONT
DERAILLEUR

CRANK

CHAIN

CRANK WHEEL

CRANK ARMS

SUSPENSION FORK

PEDALS

QUICK RELEASE

SKEWER

S E AT W I TH

SEATPOST

SPOKE

RIM

TIRE

AXLE

FRONT DERAILLEUR

FRONT
REFLECTOR

R E A R
REFLECTOR

T I R E
VALVE

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Tools you’ll need:Parts required:

4 M M

ALLEN KEY

QUICK RELEASE

FRONT WHEEL

Q U I C K

RELEASE SKEWER

F R A M E, R EA R R A C K

+ REAR WHEEL

( 4 ) 4M M A LL E N

KEY SCREWS

( pre-installed)

FRONT WHEEL +

REAR R ACK

5MM

ALLEN KEY

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BRAKE ARMS

METAL TUBE

METAL TUBING

The front brake is facing away
from the bike body.

CORRECT

The brakes are behind the fork.

INCORRECT

01

Spin the front fork so that the brakes are pointing forward.
Turn the handlebars to match the Correct Image so that
the cables don’t loop around the headtube.

02

Pinch front brake arms, pulling the metal tubing up and
out until it is disengaged and the brake arms are open.

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F O R K
DROPOUTS

AXLE NUTS

Locate the arrow on the wall of the tire and position the
tire like the image below. With the arrow pointing
forward, insert the wheel into the fork dropouts.
The cone nuts will fall inside of the fork.

DO NOT untighten axle
nuts on the front wheel.

CAUTION

03 04

Use a 5mm multi-tool to loosen the front brake pads and
rotate them horizontally if needed. The front brake pads
will align to the side of the rim. Retighten them.

Reattach the brake arms by connecting the metal tube
as shown.

We will revisit this step in the Brake Assembly section.

5 M M

ALLEN KEY

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05

All of the components for the quick release skewer are
attached out of the box.

Unscrew QR5 and remove QR4. Do not remove QR2 and

QR3 from the quick release handle QR1.

- QR1

QR4QR2 QR3 QR5

----

----

-

----

Quick release skewer must be installed correctly to avoid bicycle damage
and/or injuries.

NOTE

06

Insert the quick release skewer through the hub opening
on either side of the wheel, as shown below.

Slide quick release skewer completely through the hub.

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08

Making sure the wheel is straight by pulling the wheel
completely up against the fork. Attach QR5 to QR1 by
compressing the spring completely. Hold the quick
release lever in place and tighten QR5 lightly.

07

Place QR4 on the open side of the quick skewer, with the
smaller end pointing inward.

- QR1

QR4 QR5

----

----

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The lever at a 90º angle, should be tight enough to feel resistance when you
close the lever. Make sure the front wheel is securely tightened and properly
aligned so there are no issues when you assemble the brakes.

NOTE

09

Lift the lever up towards the fork. If the lever does not
lock in place smoothly, loosen QR5 slightly and try again.
It will take a small amount of strength, but that is normal.

QR5

----

10

Once the front wheel is secured, lower the kickstand and
locate the front fender.

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Align the front arms of the rear rack to the eyelets on the
frame below the seat. Use a 4mm allen key to tighten the
screws and attach the rear rack to the frame.

11 12

4 M M

ALLEN KEY

4 M M

ALLEN KEY

REAR
RACK

REAR
RACK

( 2 ) 4M M AL LE N

KEY SCREWS

(Locted at rear rack mount)

( 2 ) 4M M AL LE N

KEY SCREWS

(Locted at rear rack mount)

Install the bottom rear rack arms to the frame using the
4mm allen screws. Tighten with a 4mm allen key. Repeat
on both sides.

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HANDLEBAR,

SEAT + PEDALS

HANDLEBAR

S E AT AT TA C H E D

TO SEAT TU BE

5MM

ALLEN KEY

P H I L LI P S

SCREWDRIVER

15MM

MULTI-TOOL

B I C Y C LE OR

AUTO GREASE

PEDALS B I C Y C LE

PUMP

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Your bike is equipped with a “threadless stem”. It clamps
to the outside of the steerer tube.

13 15

5 M M

ALLEN KEY

These bolts are designed to be tighten to correct torque. If you don’t have
access to a torque wrench, we suggest to visit your local bike shop for prop-
er tightening. If you decide to tighten the screws without a torque wrench,
make sure to tighten the bolts until they are snug. Do not overtighten. Bolts
that are too loose can move and fatigue. Bolts that are too tight can stretch
and deform. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing
you to lose control and fall.

NOTE

Loosen the top cap of the fork steerer with a 5mm Allen
key and remove the top cap and bolt. Do not miss place
these components.

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16

5 M M

ALLEN KEY

Loosen the stem clamp bolts with a 5mm Allen key before
twisting the stem to face forward. Align the stem to be in
line with the front wheel.

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Now tighten the stem clamp bolts evenly with the
handlebar assembly facing directly forward.

17 18

5 M M

ALLEN KEY

After making sure that the stem bolts are properly
tightened, use a 5mm allen key to re-install the top cap.

These bolts are designed to be tighten to correct torque. If you don’t have
access to a torque wrench, we suggest to visit your local bike shop for prop-
er tightening. If you decide to tighten the screws without a torque wrench,
make sure to tighten the bolts until they are snug. Do not overtighten. Bolts
that are too loose can move and fatigue. Bolts that are too tight can stretch
and deform. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing
you to lose control and fall.

NOTE

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19 20

6 M M

ALLEN KEY

6 M M

ALLEN KEY

A good way to double check yourself would be to put your weight down on
the handlebars. If they don’t move, then they are secured properly.

NOTE

Loosen the bolts on the handlebar faceplate using a 6mm
Allen key.

Place handlebar between the stem and faceplate ensuring
that the ridges are centered and covered by the faceplate.
This will ensure that the handlebars are centered. Using
a 6mm allen key, tighten the stem faceplate bolts evenly
and secure the handlebars in place.

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22

Our suspension seat post doesn’t need any adjustment
and comes ready to use.

Open the quick release lever. Apply grease to seat post.
Insert into seat post tube until the top of the seat is lev-
eled to your waist. The seat post must be past the mini-
mum insertion mark.

Rotate and tighten the quick relase lever handle until fin-
ger tight. Place the lever in your palm and close the quick
release lever.

B I CY CL E OR

AUTO GREASE

Adjust the position of the front reflector by loosening the
screw on the bracket.

Straighten the reflector so that it points forward.

21

P H IL LI PS

SCREWDRIVER

FRONT

REFLECTOR

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23

Apply grease to the threading on both
pedals.

Select the pedal stamped R (located on the
tip of the threading) and locate the right side
of the bike (with the chain and chain guard).

Align threading with the right crank arm,
and turn the pedal clockwise to tighten it.

Locate the pedal stamped L and align
with the left crank arm. The left side
pedal is reverse-threaded, tightening in a
counterclockwise direction.

B I CY CL E OR

AUTO GREASE

15MM

MULTI-TOOL

PEDALS

We recommend hand tightening initially and
following up with a 15mm wrench to fully
tighten down the pedals.

RIGHT PEDAL LEFT PEDAL

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24

Pump air into the tires to PSI 40-65MAX, as recommended
on the sidewall of the tire.

BICYCLE PUMP

Sit on the bike and check the angle formed by your knee.
If your knee forms the incorrect angle, use the seat post
clamp lever to raise the seat until you have a subtle bend
or achieve a comfortable height.

25

CORRECT

INCORRECT

The images above use a different bicycle, but the instructions are the same.

NOTE

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BRAKE

ASSEMBLY

METAL TUBE

C A B L E
HOUSING

B R A K E
ADJUSTMENT
SCREW

BRAKE LEVER

B A R R EL
HANGER

CABLE

B R A K E
HOUSING

BARREL

ADJUSTER

B R A K E
LEVER
CREVICE

S P R I NG
TENSION
SCREWS

B R A K E PA D
SCREW

BRAKE ARMS

PAD S

P H I L LI P S

SCREWDRIVER

TOOLS REQU IRED

5MM

ALLEN KEY

DIAGRAM

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ATTA C HED

BRAKE CABLE

Only follow steps 1-9 if your brake cable is not
attached to the bicycle.

If your brake cable is attached, skip to step 10.

NOTE

BARREL CABLE

01

There are two ends to the brake cable.

One end has a barrel attached, while the other end has an
open piece of cable.

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02

04

Slide the cable housing up toward the
brake lever until it fits snug inside the barrel
adjuster.

05

Turn the lock ring on the barrel adjuster
clockwise, tightening the barrel to prevent
any loose movement.

LOCK RI NG

03

Pull on the cable and slide it through the
narrow crevice that runs along the brake
lever.

B R A K E

LEVER CREVICE

B A R R EL
HANGER

B A R R EL
ADJUSTER

BARREL ADJUSTER

Attach the brake cable to the brake lever
by squeezing the lever and inserting the
barrel into the barrel hanger.

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07

Slide the metal tube up the brake cable until the housing
fits snugly into the cable housing.

CABLE GUIDE

METAL TUBE

M E TA L TU BE

06

Insert the open end of the brake cable into the larger end
of the metal tube.

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08

Slide the exposed end of the metal into the metal tube
hanger, located on the left brake arm. Make sure the
metal tube is hooked securely inside the hanger.

LEFT

BRAKE ARM

METAL TUBE

HANGER

E N D OF

METAL TUBE

Using a 5mm Allen key, loosen the brake cable adjustment
screw. Slide remaining brake cable between the right
brake arm and the adjustment screw.

BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

SCREW

RIGHT BRAKE ARM

09

5MM ALLEN KEY

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10

Pull the cable outward, reducing the distance between
the brake pads and the rim by about 1/4 inch on both
sides. Retighten the adjustment screw.

CABLE

11

Make sure the pads are evenly lined up with the rim. If
the pads rub against the tire, they are too high; if they
don’t make full contact with the rim when braking, they
are too low.

Adjust the positions by holding the brake pad with one
hand and loosening the nut on the back with a 5mm
Allen key.

5 M M

ALLEN KEY

A D J U S T W I T H

5MM ALLEN KEY

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12

If one pad seems to run against the rim while the other
still has plenty of space, you will need to center the
brakes. To do this, adjust the spring tensioner screws
located at the base of each brake arm.

Tightening the screw on the right brake arm pushes the
right brake pad away from the rim, and the left brake pad
towards the rim.

Loosening the right screw allows the right brake pad to
move closer to the rim, and the left brake pad away from
the rim.

S P R I NG

TENSIONER

SCREW

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7 SPEED

DERAILLEUR TUNING

9MM

MULTI-TOOL

P H I L LI P S

SCREWDRIVER

H LIMIT SCREW

DIAGRAM TOOLS REQU IRED

L LIMIT SCREW

C A B L E
ADJUSTMENT
BOLT

B A R R EL CA BL E
ADJUSTER

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01

To adjust the rear derailleur, first twist the shifter until the
number 7 is highlighted on the shift knob.

02

Rotate pedals until the chain falls into the smallest cog.

SMALLEST COG

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B A R R EL

ADJUSTER

03

Turn the barrel adjuster located on the rear derailleur
clockwise until it stops.

04

If the chain still hasn’t reached the smallest cog, then you
will need to adjust the “High Gear” limiting screw located
on the derailleur (indicated by the letter H).

With a Phillips screwdriver, gradually turn the screw
counterclockwise 1/4 turn at a time while rotating the
pedal until the chain falls onto the smallest cog.

P H IL LI PS

SCREWDRIVER

The “High Gear” limiting screws are very sensitive. We recommend using only
1/4 turn at a time, in case you have to revert back to it’s original position.

NOTE

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Each gear should shift with a corresponding
“click” sound.

NOTE

05

06

Now adjust the cable tension, which controls how your bike will shift. Using a 9mm
crescent wrench or the multi-tool, loosen the cable adjustment screw and pull on
the cable. While keeping tension on the cable, tighten the cable adjustment screw.

Rotate the pedals and try to shift between gears. If it doesn’t shift from 7th to 6th
gear in one click, then the cable needs to be tightened. To tighten the cable, twist
the barrel adjuster counterclockwise 1/4 turn at a time until it is able to shift from 7th
to 6th gear in one click.

Shift through the gears from 7th to 1st, then back from 1st to 7th. If the gears feel
sluggish when shifting from 7th to 1st, tighten the cable by turning the barrel
adjuster counterclockwise. If shifting feels fine from 7th to 1st, but sluggish from 1st
to 7th, loosen the cable by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise.

Continue to adjust the derailleur cable until you are able to shift between each gear
with a single click.

9MM

MULTI-TOOL

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21 SPEED

DERAILLEUR TUNING

DIAGRAM

FRONT DERAILLEUR

CHAINWHEEL
(CHAIN RING)

REAR

DERAILLEUR

REAR CASSETTE

(COGS)

I N N E R C AG E
PLATE

CLAMP

CAGE

O U T E R C AG E
PLATE

HIGH & LOW

SCREWS

S H I F TE R
CABLE NUT

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The front and the rear shifters are called
“Index” shifters. This means it has set levels
for each gear. For every click given, the shifter
moves up or down a one gear.

With 7 gears in the rear and 3 in the front, you
are able to shift into 21 different gear combi-
nations.

1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears.

1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th gears.

P H I L LI P S

SCREWDRIVER

TOOLS REQU IRED

5 MM

ALLEN KEY

M A L L ET OR

HAMMER

We tune every bike before packaging, but
I would still recommend checking the tun-
ing. It ’s possible that they may need to be
readjusted after being shipped to you. These
instructions are designed to help if your bike
needs a little extra work.

If you don’t feel comfortable working on your
bike, we suggest taking it to your local bike
shop for final assembly.

NOTE

INDEX SHIFTER

FRONT

REAR

1 2 3

1 2 4 5 6 73

We recommend you have a helper with you.
It’s not necessary, but it would make shifting in
these steps a whole lot easier.

Besides, are you going to get up and get your
own tools?

Let’s start.

2 PERSON ASSEMBLY

RECOMMENDED BUT

NOT REQUIERED

CAUTION

Please be careful with the derailleur cage as it
has tension that causes the cage to pull back
into the frame when attached to the shifting
cable.

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01

Check your bike’s tuning by taking it for a test ride. Shift
the front derailleur up and down to check each gear while
riding. If you hear any rubbing coming from the chain hit-
ting the derailleur in any of the gears, you will need to
tune the front derailleur.

02

Begin by shifting the front derailleur to 2nd gear. Lift the
chain and pull the cage away from the bike to place a penny
in between the outer cage and the largest chainwheel. If
you can fit two pennies, then your front derailleur is too
high. If the penny fits snuggly in between the outer cage
and the chainwheel, you can move to step 4.

2 PENNIES

DERAILLEUR POSITION

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03

Untighten the clamp with a 5mm Allen key a quarter turn
at a time until you are able to tap the derailleur slightly
up and down without it falling completely down the seat
tube. While still pulling the cage forward, grab a penny
and place it above the largest chainwheel. Adjust the
height of the derailleur cage so it sits above the penny.
With a mallet/hammer and the allen key, you can slightly
tap the derailleur up or down based on its original posi-
tion. Reference the bottom right image as an example.
Now tighten the cage in place with a 5mm Allen key.

1

2

3

4

5 MM

ALLEN KEY

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Once the height is set, we must check the angle of the
cage. Lift the chain and pull the cage forward and view
the cage from above. The inside of the outer cage plate
must be parallel to the largest chainwheel. If your outer
cage plate is parallel to the largest chainwheel, you can
move to step 6.

04

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5 MM

ALLEN KEY

If your outer cage plate is NOT parallel to the largest
chainwheel, untighten the clamp a quarter turn at a time
until you are able to slightly move the derailleur.

Based on the angle, tap on the back or the front of the
cage after every turn until it moves slightly.

Tap the cage left or right to align the cage plate and the
largest chainwheel. Recheck the angle to make sure that
they are parallel. Now tighten the cage in place with a
5mm Allen key.

05

MALLET

OR HAMMER

If you untighten the derailleur too much, it will potentially offset the
height of the derailleur causing a need to repeat step 5.

NOTE

1

2

3

4

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Derailleurs work off of tension, and this is
the reason that they are designed with High
and Low Limiter screws. The High and Low
Limiters essentially act as boundaries so that
no matter how much tension you put into
or take off the shifter cable, the derailleur will
not go past the largest or smallest gears. The
High (H) screw is the limiter for the largest
gear, and the Low (L) screw is the limiter for
the smallest gear.

NOTE

COUNTERCLOCKWISE

CLOCKWISE

Turning the L & H counterclockwise shortens
the range where the derailleur cage can travel.

Turning the L & H clockwise increases the
range where the derailleur cage can travel.

L H

L H

06

Now, let’s check the H limit screw. Begin by shifting the
derailleur to 3rd gear. While turning the pedals, shift into
3rd gear. If the chain does not fall off the largest chain-
wheel when shifting into 3rd gear, the H limit screw is
close to proper positioning.

LIMITER SCREWS

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Reference the bottom left image below to check if the
derailleur is properly adjusted. If it matches the images,
please move forward to Step 8. Looking through the front
of the derailleur cage, decide whether the chain is too
close to the inner or outer cage plates. If the chain is too
close to the outer cage plate, turn the H screw clockwise
a quarter turn at a time until it is centered. If the chain is
too close to the inner cage plate (closer than the outer
cage plate or it is rubbing), then turn the H screw counter-
clockwise a quarter turn at a time until it is centered.

07

P H IL LI PS

SCREWDRIVER

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08

Now, let’s check the L limit screw. Begin by shifting the
derailleur to 1st gear. While turning the pedals, shift into
1st gear. It may take more than 1 click. If the chain does
not fall off the smallest chainwheel after shifting from 2nd
to 1st, the L limit screw is close to proper positioning.

Reference the image below on the left, if the chain is cen-
tered in between the inner and outer cage plates, you
can move on to step 10, Micro Adjustments. If the chain
is NOT centered in between the inner cage, you will need
to use a Phillips head to center the inner walls of the cage
to the chain. Looking overhead at the cage and inspect
its current position.

09

P H IL LI PS

SCREWDRIVER

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Based on the screws original position, take note of the
amount of quarter turn rotations given in either direction
to the L screw, until the inner and outer cage plates are
centered. If the outer cage plate is too far in and rubbing
against the chain, you have to turn the L screw counter-
clockwise. If the inner cage plate is too far out and rubbing
against the chain, you have to turn the L screw clockwise.

10

P H IL LI PS

SCREWDRIVER

11

Now that you have adjusted the limiter screws, let’s check
each gear to make sure that the derailleur is shifting
correctly. Shift from 1st gear to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd gear, and
from 3rd to 1st gear. If you can pedal the bike in each gear
without hearing rub, and it’s shifting up and down without
resistance or lag, the front derailleur is properly adjusted.
If not, we will need to do some minor adjustments with
the barrel adjuster.

CABLE TENSION AND SHIFTING

HAVING TROUBLE? WANT LIVE HELP? CALL 310.982.2877 OR EMAIL [e-mail].

12 01

Locate the barrel adjuster located on the front shifter
where the cable comes out of the shifter. Note/
Explanation: The barrel adjuster will change the amount
of tension on the shifting cable. This helps the derailleur
move up and down the gears. Turn the barrel adjuster
counter-clockwise a quarter turn at a time while pedaling
the bike. Keep checking for rub/lag on each gear until
it disappears. If the rub/lag persists, please feel free to
contact one of our mechanics to help you troubleshoot
this last step.

Your bike is equipped with front fork spring suspension.

The position of blue lever indicates whether the front fork
is locked or unlocked.

The front fork is locked if the blue lever is highlighting
the color red. If the blue lever is highlighting the color
green, the front fork is unlocked allowing for damped and
cushioned ride.

FORK SUSPENSION

UNLOCKED LOCKED

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02

There is no need to adjust the tension of the spring. If
you do decide to add or relieve tension, take note on the
amount of twists and/or rotations in any given direction
that it took to get to your preferred riding stiffness or
softness.

Your bike should be ready to ride at this point. Time to
enjoy the ride! If you have/had any trouble at all, please
feel free to contact our team at:

[phone]
[e-mail]

03

HAVING TROUBLE? WANT LIVE HELP? CALL 310.982.2877 OR EMAIL [e-mail].

Tell us about your assembly experience. If you have/had
any trouble at all or didn’t, and would like to leave feed-
back and help us improve our assembly instructions you
can.

Type this URL into your browser:

goo.gl/kdJeJx

SURVEY

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You did it! Time to take your brand new bike for a spin.

Still have questions? We’re happy to help.

Want to share your journey with us? We’re happy about that, too.

CONGRATULATIONS

SIXTHREEZERO

[e-mail]

310.982.2877

[e-mail]

310.982.2877

SIXTHREEZERO

LOS ANGELES, CA