SINGER W ET 10 User Manual

'.J7i^,

w

MOD^O^

FREEARM, LIGHTWEIGHT,
SUPER-AUTOMATIC WITH ­BUILT-IN PRACTICAL STITCHES

AND STRETCH STITCHES

INSTRUCTION
MANUAL

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXD

I his booklet has been written for you, to help you use and

enjoy fully your sewing machine. ,

Before you start to use this machine, please take a few
minutes to study this booklet. You will find it will be time

well spent in understanding your machine.

If you have any questions regarding the use of your
overlocking machine please do not hesitate to contact

your dealer or ourselves.

WHITE SEWING MACHINE

Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model

No. of this appliance.
The Serial No. is located Rear of arm.
The Model No. is located Rear of arm.

Serial No.

Model No.

________;_________________________

...

ET-6 or ET-10 '

Retain these numbers for future reference.

WHITE SEWING MACHINE CO.
Cleveland, Ohio
U.S.A. 44111

Scarborough, Ontario
Canada MIP 2G1

____

'A31JE CF CONTENTS

1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE, Pages..2-17

Acc8Ssori^,1ist of.....................................4-5

Accessory Box
Bobbin,-To insert into Bobbin Case
Bobbin Case, To insert into Shuttle
Bobbin Case, To remove from Shuttle... 9

Bobbin Thread, To pick up........................13

Bobbin Winding
Converting to free-arm sewing

Darning Plate..............................................15

Finger Guard............................................. 11

Free-Arm Sewing and to Convert
Knowing your Machine
Machine Identification
Needle and Thread Table

Needles, to Change...................................11

Power/ Light Switch

Presser Feet, Selection

Presser Feet, to Change............................15

Presser Foot Lever

Reverse Stitch Lever
Seaming Guide Lines
Setting up your Machine
Spool Pins
Stitch Length Control
Stitch Selection Control

Threading Top of Machine
Thread Tensions, Top and Bottom

............................................

........

.........

..........................................

..................

..............

...........................

..............................

.........................

...................................

.............................

.....................................

.................................

................................

............................

...................................................

................................

............................

........................

............

4
10
10

8

7

7

2 - 3

2-3

11

6

15

6

17
17

6

7
16
16
12

14

Lingerie Stitch

Mending.......................................................26

Overcasting, Simple Zig-zag
Overcasting, Three Step Zig-zag
Pin Basting

Piping .........................................................

Ric-Rac Stitch.............................................29

Rolled Hemming....................................... 25

Satin Stitch

Smocking Stitch
Starting to Sew
Straight Stitching
Stretch Overlock Stitch

Stretch Stitches, General Information ...28

Three Step Zig-zag
Top Stitching.
Triple Straight^titch
Turning a Square Comer, Single
Needle

Zig-zag Stitching........................................ 23

Zips, to Insert..............................................22

3. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE,
Pages

Cleaning the Machine

Cleaning the Shuttle, Feed Dogs ....34-35

Light Bulb, to Change................................34

Sewing Light...............................................34

.........................................................

....................................................

............................................

.....................

..............

.................................................

.................................................

.........................................

...........................................

.......................................

.............................

.....................................

...........................................

...................................

................................

25
24

26

21

22

23
29

18
19
30

26

20

29

20

34 - 35

34

2. STARTING TO SEW, Pages.................18 - 33

Applique......................................................24

Basting

Blind Hems...,

Button Sewing...........................................

Buttonhole Making, Automatic
Buttonholes, Corded
Buttonholes, Tips On
Cording
Darning
Foot Control
Gathering

.......................................................

.............................................

...........

.................................

................................

.......................................................

.......................................................

...............................................

...................................................

31 - 32

21

27
24

33

33
22
20
18

21

4. CHECK CHART FOR PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS Page
Problem Chart

5. OPTIONAL EXTRA Pages

Even Feed Foot (Optional Extra)

Overcasting Foot (Optional Extra)............38

Rolle Foot (Optional Extra)........................38

Tufting Foot (Optional Extra)
Twin Needle (Optional Extra)

.......................................

............................................

.....................

..............

....................

..............

36

36

37 -40

37

37

39-40

31. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

7J1ACHIM1 IDENTIFICATION

Thr^ guide

After unpacking your Sewing

Machine, stand it on a fiat
sturdy surface and study the

diagram to get to know the
various working parts and
their names.

It will be found useful to refer
back to these two pages as

you progress through the

Book to be sure which part b

being referred to.

Needle bar

Needle clamp screw

Presser foot release lever

Thread guide

Thread cutter

Presser foot thumb screw

Presser foot

Needle plate

NOTE: A detailed drawing which shows the parts of the shuttle and bobbin is on page 9.

2

Bobbin winder shaft

Extra spool pin

Foot control

ACCES3fDR!IS

Open the Accessory Box. Inside you will

find a wide* range of acetones and

attachmenis %¥hich will be found useful

for the various sewing -operations that
wil! be described in later pages.

m

Spare needles

N0.7CM3

Seam ripper/
buttonhole opener

No. 7086

Bobbins
No. 100^

Spool pin disc

No. 7056

Spool stand

No. 7053

Darning cover

plate

No. 7057

Extra spool pin

No. 7054

Screwdriver (large)

No. 1627

Screwdriver (small)

No. 1628

Lint brush

No. 7079

Straight stitch

No. 4312

Blind stitch foot

No. 6219

Z3S

Zipper foot

No. 3589

Buttonhole guide

No. 7052

Parts and accessories fitted on the machine

Standard zig-zag
foot No. 3550

Presser foot holder
No. 7048

Presser foot thumb
screw No. 76957

No. 7073

Spool pin cap

No. 11423

Needle clamp
screw No. 76061

Bobbin case

No. 77964

Light bulb
No. 3478

Shuttle
No. 7055

SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE

1. Be sure your machine is resting securely on

a sturdy, flat surface.

2. Before using your machine the first time be
sure to wipe off any surplus oil from around

the needle plate area that may have remained
during transit.

It is also advisable to run the machine
unthreaded with some spare material under

the presser foot, to absorb any excess oil.

FOOT CONTROL

Push foot control plug into the connector

socket at the bottom right-hand side of the
machine. (See also page 18).

POWER/LIGHT SWITCH

Your machine will not operate until the power

switch is turned on. The same switch controls
both the power and the light.

If you are interrupted, or stop sewing, or leave
the machine unattended, the power light switch
must be switched off or the plug must be
removed from the socket-outlet.

When servicing the machine, or when removing
covers or changing needles or lamps, the
machine must be disconnected from the mains
by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

The presser foot lever raises and lowers your

presser foot.

1 • Lower the presser foot lever to sew.

2. Raise the presser foot lever and the pressure
of the presser foot will be released to insert or

remove thin or thick fabrics.

3. Extra height of the presser foot can be
obtained by lifting the presser foot thumb
screw by finger to allow insertion of thicker
material.

NOTE; Presser foot pressure is set at the

factory. No adjustment is required.

SPOOL PINS

1. Fit the spool stand in the accessory box in

the direction shown by arrow as illustrated.
NOTE: Remember to take off the spool pin

2. Attach the extra spool pin on the right end

of the carrying handle, when sewing with
a twin needle.

#

for storage.

CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM

SEWING

Your machine can be used either as a flat-bed

or as a free-arm model.

With the extension table in position it

becomes a fiat-bed with a large working

surface, which slopes gently towards you to

help the smooth flow of the fabric when

sewing.

By removing the extension table, the

machine converts into a free-arm model
which will be found ideal for sewing ail those
awkward, tight corners especially for small
articles for babies and small children.

The free-arm is easily obtained by simply

pulling the extension table to the left as
shown in the illustration. To replace, reverse

this operation ensuring the lugs A and B are

correctly located into their respective holes.

Extra spool

Other advantages of free-arm sewing are as
follows: —

1. Sewing of any 'tubular' article such as
sleeves, cuffs, trousers, shorts, legs of

almost all garments.

2. Easier mending of worn elbows or knees

of clothes.

3. Sewing-in sleeves, particularly on small

garments.

4. Appliqué, embroidery or hemming around

the edges of cuffs etc.

5. Sewing-in elastic casing at the waistline.

WlilPlMS BCB8IN

1.

Release clutch holding hand wheel and
turning clutch knob towards you.

Draw thread from spool through thread
guide as shown.

3.

Pull end of thread through hole In bobbin

as shown.

4.

Push bobbin winder shaft to far left

position, if it is not already there. Place
bobbin onto shaft with end of thread

8

coming from top of bobbin. Push bobbin

winder shaft to right until it clicks. Hold
onto end of thread.

5. Stert machine. The thread that is held
will snap. Bobbin will cease turning when
completely filled. Push shaft to left to

remove bobbin.

6. Tighten clutch knob and remove bobbin.

..

..................................

■ •.«... ..^^1., '^.. A4M.I. .a, %.iu.fi ditinJlk-t.

RBimovmQ BOBBIN case

3;-PJTTLl

1. Remove the extension table from the
machine by puiling it to the left.

ha. Open the bobbin access cover by

pulling it down at the notch.

b. With your forefinger and thumb, pull

up the latch on the bobbin case.

c. Using this latch, lift the bobbin case out

of the shuttle.

Locating pin

Locating groove

A

3. Turn the bobbin case upside down and the

bobbin will drop out of the case.

la

......

. " ■ '. •

IWSEHTIMG BOBBIN INTO BOBBIN CASE

1. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case with

the thread running clockwise.

2. Pull the thread through the slit in the

bobbin case.

3 a. Pull the thread underneath the flat

tension spring. It will click when it is in
place.

b- Pull about 6” (15 cm) of the thread from

the bobbin case, to be used later.

INSERT THE BOBBIN CASE INTO THE SHUTTLE

1. -Hold the latch open, with the locating pin

straight up.

2. Slide the bobbin case onto the centre
spindle of the shuttle, keeping the thread

towards you.

NOTE; Be sure the locating pin fits into

3. Release the latch to lock the bobbin case

in place.

the locating groove at the top of
the shuttle.

10

■ ■■

NEEDLE AND THREAD TABLE

Use System 705 needles. The size of the
needle should conform to the size of the
thread and both should be suitable to the
material. The same size and type thread
should be used in the bobbin as on the upper
part of the machine for ordinary sewing.

Thread Size

Cotton 60-100
Synthetic
Machine embroidery

Cotton
Synthetic
Silk A
Machine embroidery

Cotton 60 80
Mercerized 50-60
Synthetic

Cotton 30-60
Mercerized heavy

duty

Needle Size Fabric
Continental / American

Blue shank needle

70(7) 11
or
80(8) 12

80(8)
or

90(9)

100 (10) 16 medium to heavy

or

12

or

14

Never use a bent needle nor one with a blunt
point.

For successful sewing of stretch fabrics use

the stretch stitch needles with blue shank.

All stretch fabrics.

Sheer cottons, silk, .
synthetics, fine laces.

batiste, dimity.

Medium weight cottons.
medium weight synthetics.
poplin, seersucker.
gingham, velvet, light
weight woollens, linen.

Heavy weight cottons.

weight woollens, denim.

CHANGING NEEDLES

Raise needle bar to its highest position by
turning the hand wheel towards you. Loosen
the needle clamp screw, and remove old or
damaged needle.

Holding the new needle with the flat side
away from you, slip it up into the needle bar
as far as it will go. Tighten the needle clamp
screw.

11

THIilADIPJG TOP THREAD

Thread the machine in the follcjwing

order as'illustrated.

Raise the presser foot lever. Raise the
needle to its highest position by rotating

the hand wheel towards you.

1.

Draw the thread from the spool passing
through the top thread guide, and pull it

towards you.

2.

Holding the thread from spool with your

right hand, pull it downward positively

through the tension slot.

12

3.

Slip the thread through the .thread guide
below needle clamp.

Thread the needle from front to back, and
draw about 4" (10 cm) of thread through
the needle eye towards the back of the

machine. .

PICKIWG UP BOBBIN THREAD

1. Raise the presser foot lever.

Holding the top thread loosely in the left
hand, turn the hand wheel towards you

with your right hand and bring the needle

to its highest position.

3. Lightly pulling the top thread, pick up the
bobbin thread appearing through the
needle plate slot.

4. Pull both top and bobbin threads
together, passing under the presser foot
towards the rear of the machine, leaving

about 6" (15 cm| clear.

If you cannot pick up the bobbin thread by

following the above steps, check the
following points.

1. Is the needle correctly threaded ?

2. Is the thread tangled around the needle ?

3. Is there about 6” (15 cm)of thread com

ing out from the bobbin case ?

4. Is the thread from bobbin case tangled ?

STRAIGHT STITCHING

ADJUSTING TOP THREAD

TENSION

Straight Stitching

The good appearance of your stitching is

largely dependent on the balanced tension of
top and bobbin threads. The tension is well
balanced when these two threads lock in the

middle of layers of fabric. You can adjust the
tension of the top thread with the thread
tension control. If the top thread is too tight,
turn this control away from you to reduce the
tension. If the top thread is too loose, turn it
towards you to increase the tension.

Fabric
puckers

Zig-zag Stitching

The top thread may appear on the underside

of the fabric depending upon the thread,
fabric, type of stitch and sewing speed, but

the bobbin thread must NEVER appear on the

top of the fabric.

ADJUSTING BOBBIN THREAD TENSION

It the straight stitches do not appear satisfac

tory, adjust the tension of top thread, as bobbin
thread tension requires adjustment less fre
quently than the top thread tension.

If the tension looks well balanced, but the

fabric puckers badly, both top and bobbin
thread tensions have to be adjusted.

To check and see if the bobbin thread tension
is correct, suspend the bobbin case by the
thread and jerk it once. The correct bobbin

tension will result in the thread unwinding
only 1 inch.

Use a screwdriver to adjust tension on the
bobbin case.

PRESSER FEET

This machine is fitted with a zigzag presser
foot for general sewing purposes. In the

accessor/ box are the following additional
presser feet;

1. Straight stitch foot

2. Zipper foot

3. Blind hem foot

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

Be sure needle is in the up position. Raise

presser foot lever.

Snap-on presser feel

1. Raise foot release lever to remove the

foot. (Fig. 1)

2. Place the desired foot on the needle plate

aligning needle holes. (Fig. 1 )

3. Lower the presser foot lever so that the

foot holder snaps on the foot. (Fig. 2)

DARNING PLATE

There are a few times when you want to

control the feeding of the fabric yourself.
Raise needle to its highest position and raise
presser foot., Attach darning plate over
needle plate aligning two pins of darning
plate with holes of needle plate. You may
then determine the movement of the fabric
yourself.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

STlTC¡’j SSLSCTOR

Your sewing machine can sew a variety of
stitches, and these are shown on the Stitch
Selector Dial’. In addtion, there are three
buTtonhoie Slaps pictured on the dial also.

Straight stitch

NOTE: Beginning on page 19, you will find

detailed instructions on the use of

each stitch.

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

To lengthen a stitch, turn the dial towards
you. To shorten a stitch, you turn the dial
away from you. THE HIGHER THE NUMBER­THE LONGER THE STITCH.

NOTE; Study the orange, green, yellow and

blue sections on this control. These
are recommended ranges of stitch

Orange zone

j

I Green zone

Yellow zone

Blue zone

•Model ET-10 only.

length and colour-coded to the

stitches pictured on the • Stitch
Selector.

The orange line between 0 and 1 is the sening
used for the shonest stitches such as in satin

stitch.

— Straight stitch

Zig-zag stitch

— Three-step zig-zag

stitch

BBnd tern stitch

* Lingerie stitch

— Ric-tac stitch .

Triple straight stitch

* Stretch overlock stitch li

* Overlook stitch

* Smocking stitch

— Buttonhole stitch

1

1

M'M$

5: . .

J ■

1 .

■

■

s
a fl <D

16

* Model ET-10 only.

SEWEiSE STITCH LEVEH

It is best to begin and end seams with a few

stitches made in reverse. This is called

'backtacking', which fastens the ends of the

seams and prevents unravelling.

To achieve reverse sewing, push down the
(Over as shown, and hold there during sewing.

I he fabric will feed backwards until you

release the lever, when it will feed forward

again.

SEAM .3UIDE LIMES

To help you sew straight seams and seams of
uniform width, guide lines have been printed
on the needle plate either side of the needle.

As a standard seam is 5/8” (16 mm) these
lines have been extended in front of, and

beyond the needle. ’

\

Reverse stitch lever

The 'cross lines' are 'cornering guides' which
help when turning a square corner 5/8”
(16 mm) from the fabric edge. Further details

of this can be found on page 20.

17

2wmm

,^ow that yoy are familiar with the controls on your sewing machine and with the m:c8s«>rm

provided for the machine, you are ready to start to saw. Mow are some good habits to follow
sach time you sit down at your machine.

TO SEW

Check the needle-it should be straight,
properly set and sharp on the point.

It should be the correct size for the fabric
and thread being used. Do not be afraid
to change your needle frequently. Many
of the new fabrics made of synthetic
blends tend to dull the needles more
easily than fabrics made of natural fibres.

2. Before placing the material on the
machine, see that the ends of the threads
have been drawn about 6" (15 cm) to the
rear of the machine. Hold on the threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4
stitches of the seam.

5. Run the machine at a slow, even speed.

The more pressure you put on the foot
control, the faster the machine will sew.

Fasten each seam by back tacking at the

beginning and end of the seam.

fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
be double thickness. Adjust the machine
for the length of stitch and tension

suitable to your fabric.

Fabric should be placed under the presser

foot with the bulk of the material to the
left of the needle and the right edge of the
material placed on the 5/8" (16 mm) seam
marking on the needle plate when making
a simple seam.

needle at its highest point.

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in

front of the needle. Never pull or hold the
fabric in such a way that the normal
feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually,

always turn it towards you.

37HA3GHT STITCHING

Tc^J thread tersion contrd

Stitch selector

-X----------1

*NOTE; For most straight stitching, the

straight foot will give your best control, but
you may use the zig-zag foot if you prefer.

Straight stitch is probably the most frequently
used of all stitches. Apart from seaming, its
many uses include tacking, basting, top

stitching, gathering, inserting zips etc. It can
be used with single or twin-needles.

FASTENING A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn back under
the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric
about 1/2” !1 cm) from beginning of seam.
Depress the reverse stitch lever and stitch in
reverse until needle reaches beginning of
seam. Release control and complete seam.
When you reach the end, depress the reverse
stitch lever and sew back (backtack) over

1/2” (1 cm) of completed seam.

^1

i

mi

£=S }

r>

REMOVING FABRIC

First turn the handwheel toward you until the
needle is at its highest position, then raise the
presser foot, draw materials to the rear and
cut off excess thread with the thread cutter
located on the foot release lever as shown.

-^-23

.Ccjmering

Guide

TURNING A SQUARE CORNER

To turn a square comer 5/8" {16 mm) from
the fabric edge, stop stitching with the
needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching
the cornering guide as shown. Raise the
presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching line
will align with 5/8" (16 mm) seam guide on
side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot

and begin stitching in new direction.

TOP-STITCHING

This is a seam you may want to show off. It's

on the front side of the garment, possibly at
the top of a "kick pleat" or on a lapel, both
functional and decorative. Usually, it's a
simple, forward stitch — with an extra-long
stitch length, or with special thread, match

ing or contrasting.

20

DARNING

SETTINGS
Darning plate

No Presser Foot

Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between

embroidery hoops with hole centred. Draw
the bobbin thread up through the fabric by
holding the top thread and making one stitch

at the spot where you wish to start darning.

Lowering the presser bar, start sewing at a
slow to medium speed. Move the fabric back
and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the
darning area. When it is covered, turn the
fabric and sew another layer of stitching
across the first layer of stitching.

TEMPORARY SEWING BY

MACHINEjBASTING)

No longer do you need to baste by hand.
Basting by machine is easy —simply use

straight stitching with longest available
length setting.

PIN BASTING
Sewing over pins is possible as shown

because the presser foot is 'hinged' -and will
'ride' over the pin points. These must be
inserted at right angles to the seam line. They

must always be on the top side of the fabric
NEVER beneath. Sew slowly, and if in doubt,

remove each pin as you approach it.

GATHERING

Set the stitch length at 4 and the top thread
tension at 1 - 2. Sew one or as many as rows
of parallel stitches as required, but do not

backtack at the beginnings and ends of the

rows.
Remove the fabric and draw up the bobbin

thread to gather the fabric to the required
length or fullness. Re-set top thread tension
control to its normal position. .

21

INSERTING ZIPPERS AND PIPING

Use zipper foot which allows you to sew to

the right or left of the zipper (or close to a
cord).

Needle to left

of foot

Needle to right
of foot

INSERTING ZIPPERS

To sew down the right side, attach left side

of zipper foot to presser foot holder so that

the needle passes through the opening on the
left side of the foot.

To sew down the left side, attach right side of
foot to foot holder.

PIPING OR CORDING

To pipe soft furnishings, cover cord with a
bias strip of fabric and pin or tack it to the
main piece of fabric. . ‘

Attach right side of zipper foot to foot holder
so that needle passes through the opening on
the right side of the foot.

'22

Zm-ZfAQ STJTCHING

Top thread tansion control

Stitch selector

SELECT ZIGZAG WIDTH

By rotating the stitch selector, it is possible to

choose eight different widths of zigzag.
These are illustrated on the dial which will

produce the various zigzag widths as shown in
the diagram.

The stitch selector can be turned in succession
with ease within the zigzag stitch range. Use
this feature to make decorative patterns.

SATIN STITCH

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin
stitches.

Use this stitch for bar tacking, appliqueing,

embroidery and monogramming.

NOTE: You may need to loosen the top thread

tension to prevent puckering. The wider
the stitch, the looser the tension should
be.

Use tissue paper or interfacing beneath a soft
fabric to improve the appearance of this stitch.

:

wiy mtitl

23

OVERCASTING STITCH

Use this stitch to keep seams or fabric from

raveling.

NOTE: To reinforce seams with overcasting,

it is recommended to use the three-

step zigzag (see page 26).

1. Stitch so that the point of the zigzag clears

the raw edge of the fabric.

BUTTON SEWING

SETTINGS
Stitch Selector - Zig-zag Stitch

Use Darning Plate.

1. Fix the button on fabric at desired

position with clear tape.

2. Align two holes of button with slot of
presser foot and lower foot to hold the

button securely.

3. Turn hand wheel manually until needle

point is just above button.

4. Set stitch selector at desired zigzag stitch
position so needle will enter one hole of

the button.

5. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle

enters second hole. Reset stitch selector

if necessary. Make 5 or 6 stitches. ■

6.

Finish sewing with an extra two inches of

thread remaining. Draw these threads to
reverse side of garment and tie.

When sewing a flat button, place needle or
pm between holes of button as shown to
provide flexibility for buttoning.

APPLIQUE

To applique a design on a sewing project or

garment:

1. Baste the applique to the top of your fabric.

2. Then use satin stitch to attach permanently.

You may want to use a contrasting color

thread.

NOTE. For best results, be sure your satin stitch

covers the bottom fabric and the top

fabric.

24

jmgee:2 stitch

Top thirad terelon control

(Mode! ET-10 only)

( ^ f Л

Чз

--------о—-------------------------

Stitch sdector

/ ^ ^

В

J

SEAM AND OVERCAST IN ONE

and overcasting

sheer, soft fabrics in one operation It also
prMuces a delicate shell hem on lingerie and

Other fine garments.

P^ce the right sides of the fabric together

and position under the presser foot ^ that

he zig-z^ part of the stitch sews just over

the raw edge.

SHELL HEM

Turn under the raw edge and press. Place the
fabric right side up so that the zig-zag part of

the stitch sews just over the folded edge

pulling the fabric in to form a shell hem ТИгт^

away excess fabric close to the stitching line.

Regular

lingerie stitch

25

'THREi-S'TS? ZIG-ZAG STITCH

thi^d COTtrd

Stitch

■«•a:-»:*;!-!:*-*,'*»:.***! :

-iwnwmuwwwii

This IS a strong stitch because as its name

implies, it makes three short stitches where
the normal zig-zag makes only one.

For this reason it is highly recommended for

overcasting all types of fabrics
It IS also ideal for mending tears, patching,

sewing towelling, patch-work and attaching

flat elastic.

MENDING A TEAR

Place beginning of tear under presser foot

and sew, ensuring stitches catch either side

of tear. When repairing three-cornered tears,

stitch down each side to the centre.

OVERCASTING
Place fabric under the presser foot so that the

needle just sews over the raw edge — see
also page 24.

26

Bumo HEM

Top thread tension confl-ol

Stitch selector

Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish

that is almost invisible and saves hours of
tedious hand sewing.

The important thing to remember is the folding
of the material. Follow the instructions carefully,

studying the diagrams below. It is advisable to
practise first on a waste piece of the same
material you intend using.

CD

First neaten the raw edge. For lightweights turn up and
baste about 3/8 ilOmm). For heavyweights Over

cast, see Page 24 or 26.

Inside

of dress

Final
hem
length

Neatened
raw edge

Screw

Work with the 'wrong side' of the fabric

uppermost and allow about 2li" 165 mm) in

excess of your final desired length. Also use a
closely matching coloured thread.

Set your machine as illustrated above, adjusting
slightly according to the thickness of the
material. Also loosen the top thread tension.

@

Final
hem
length-------

Fold garment away from hem leaving about 1 /8'
14 mm) of hem edge extending.

Neatened

raw edge

0

iuide

Place garment under blind stitch foot with the fold of
the garment against guide and slide it by turning screw

so that the zig-zag just catches the fold.

Press both sides of the finished hem. The right side of

the garment will show only the blind stitches.

27

STRETCH STITCHES

Top thread tension cono'ol

Stitch seiector

When sewing stretch stitches on stretch

fabric, use the stretch stitch needle with a

blue shank. When sewing stretch stitches on
non-stretch fabrics, use normal needles.

Stretch stitches, as their names imply, are

mainly for use on stretch and knit fabrics

. ■. . ■! ‘ ' ' • - • : ■ .* * • . ■ ■ ;:: I, »':

such as stretch nylon, stretch towelling,

jersey and cotton jersey; and for sewing

together knitted garments. Stretch stitches

can also be used on non-stretch fabrics.

1. Triple straight stitch

• )\y\

2. Ric-rac stitch

3. Smocking stitch (Model ET-10 only)

4. Overlockstitch (Model ET-10 only!

5. Stretch overlook stitch (Model ET-10 only)

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

Depending upon your preference in stitch
patterns, you may make stretch stitches
closer together without changing the balance
of stitches by turning stitch length dial away

from you within yellow range.

28

TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH

SETTINGS .
Stitch Selector - il!

Stitch Length - Yellow Range

1 ripie straight stitch is far stronger than

ordinary straight stitch because it locks three

times — forwards, backwards and forwards.

It is particularly suitable for reinforcing the

seams of sportswear in stretch and non
stretch fabrics, and for curved seams which

take a lot of strain.
Use this stitch also to top-stitch round lapels,

collars and cuffs to give a professional finish

TO your garments.

RIC-RAC STITCH

Stitch Selector - %
Stitch Length - Yellow Range

Ric-rac is a quick method of finishing a raw

edge and providing a decorative top-stitch in
one operation. It is ideal for edging neck
bands, armholes, sleeves and hems.

SMOCKING STITCH

Stitch Selector - ^
Stitch Length - Yellow Range

1. Sew rows of straight stitches 1 /2" (1 cm)
apart. Draw up the bobbin thread to
gather the fabric to the required lingth.
If required, back the gathering with a strip

of fabric or bias binding.

2. Sew smocking stitch between the rows of
gathering. When complete, remove the

gathering stitches.

Note; When smocking a garment, the stitch

ing should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.

» (Model ET-10 only)

29

STRETCH OVERLOOK STITCH

^ (Model ET-10 only)

Stitch Selector - K
Stitch Length - Yellow Range

Designed to produce a narrow, supple seam,

particularly suited to swimwear, sportswear,

T-shirts, babywear in stretch nylon, stretch

towelling, jersey and cotton jersey.
Hand and machine knitted clothes can be

seamed or altered using this stitch, which will
also attach neckbands and sleevebands.

OVERLOOK STITCH

^ (Model ET-10 only)

Stitch Selector - ^
Stitch Length - Yellow Range

This is the same type stitch used by the
garment industry in making sportswear—it

forms and finishes the seam in one operation.

It's very effective for use in repairing raw or

worn edges of older garments.

30

3UT1*C?J>10LE ^AlCiWG

Tcp t»«on comrd

Stitch setectcsr

** ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

Depending upon your fabric or your own

preference in buttonholes, you may alter the

buttonhole stitch density within the blue
buttonhole range on the stitch length control.

^ turn the control towards

2. For less density, turn the control towards
O .

PREPARATION

Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your
garment. Mount the buttonhole guide onto
the presser foot so that rear edge of presser

foot is at the rear end of the guide as shown

right. Place the fabric with the buttonhole
marked under the buttonhole guide. Slide the
guide forward so that the needle pierces the

fabric at the beginning of the buttonhole.
You have been provided with a standard

buttonhole guide for making buttonholes.
Reproduction of the identical size button
holes is facilitated with the aid of the
graduations on the guide. Graduations act as

reference mark.

(D

31

0

1. Set stitch selector at . Stitch forward
until you reach the front markir^ of your
buttonhole. Stop seywng at the left stitch
and then raise needle to Its highest
position.

2. Set stitch selector at Li and bartack
4 or 5 stitches. Stop sewing at the right
stitch. Raise needle to its highest position
as in step 1. ,

0

Set stitch selector at i.lf and continue
sewing until needle reaches beginning of
your buttonhole. Stop sewing at the right
stitch and then raise rieedle as in steps

1 and 2.

Set stitch selector at jj again and bartack
to complete buttonhole.

To make firm well stitched buttonholes in

heavier fabrics, repeat steps 1 and 3.

32

CORDED BUI rONHOLES

Hook filler cord (crochet thread or button

hole twist) to the spur, pull both ends of cord
forward under the guide. Sew buttonhole in

such a way that zig-zag stitches cover the
cord. ,

When stitching is completed, release cord'

from foot, pull ends of cord and snip off extra
length.

TIPS ON BUTTONHOLING

scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the

buttonhole with the button you will use.

Always use an interfacing in area of garment

where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paper

or regular interfacing can be used. Tear papj
away after stitching, if it is used.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top

thread tension slightly. ^

‘'“'“"foie on a

33

3. CARING FOR THE MACHINE

CHANGE THE LIGHT BULB

1. Unplug the machine.

I

2. a. Using the screw driver, push down the

lever located behind the presser bar and
the bulb will come out.

b. Push the lever to the right to lock.

3. a. Push up the bulb and turn slightly to the

left.

b. Pull down to remove it.

4. a. Insert the new bulb and turn it with
some upward pressure until it stops.

b. Push up the bulb and turn to the right to

lock into place.

5. Push the lever back to the left and then up

into the machine.

CLEANING YOUR MACHINE

Remove mains plug before carrying out any

of the maintenance operations described

below.

Your machine will offer years of household

sewing service, if you clean the machine
regularly, by just removing dusts and lints.

Note: Your machine is produced with the

quality components that are per
manently lubricated, so oiling is not
necessary under the normal use of
household sewing.

CLEANING FEED DOGS

1. Unplug the machine and remove the

presser foot.

2. Remove the needle plate with the large

screwdriver.

3. Use the brush to remove the lint that may
have accumulated around the feed dogs

and in the shuttle area.

34

CLEANING SHUTTLE

Shuttle driver

Shuttle

Shuttle cover

Bobbin
case

1. Raise needle to its highest position.

2. a. Take , out the bobbin case from the
shuttle.

b. Turn the two shuttle cover latches

outwards.

c. Take out shuttle cover and thè shuttle.

3. Clean feed dogs and shuttle with brush.

Note: Apply a drop of sewing machine oil

onto the centre stud of shuttle race

as indicated by an arrow

4. a.

Be sure the shuttle driver looks as a half
moon on the left side.

Inserting the shuttle in the centre it

should form the other half moon on the
right side.

35

4. CHECK CHART FOR PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

Your sewing machine is a precision instrument, designed to give you many years of trouble-free

sewing with mmumum maintenance. If you have any performance problem, check the list

anc m many cases you will be able to solve the problem yourself.

GENERAL PROBLEMS

Machine does not sew.

■“Hand wheel is not returned to stitching
position. — Tighten clutch knob (see page 8).

■“Power line cord is not connected. — Check
plug. ■

“Power/light switch turned off. - Turn on the

switch.

Machine jams/knocks.
“Thread is caught in shuttle. - Clean shuttle

(see page 35).

“Needle is damaged. — Replace needle (see

page 11).

Fabric does not move.

Presser foot not lowered. — Lower presser

foot.

“Stitch length control is set at 0. — Set it at 1

to 4.

Darning plate is attached. — Remove darning

plate.

“Thread is knotted under fabric.

STITCHING PROBLEMS
Machine skips stitches.
“Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric

— See page 11.

“Fabric is a ceaain knit or synthetic. — Use

stretch stitch needle.

.Needle is bent or blunt. — Replace needle

(see page 11).

Needle is not all the way up into needle clamp

— — See page 11. ­“Top thread tension is too tight. - Decrease

top thread tension.

“Machine is not threaded correctly. - See pages

lu and i2.

“Thread is caught in shuttle. - Clean shunie

(see page 35).
Stitches are irregular.
“Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric

— See page 11.

'l^^a^ridT^^ not threaded correctly. - See pages

Top thread tension is too loose. — Increase
top thread tension.

•Fabric is being pulled or pushed against
machine feeding action. - Guide it gently.
Bobbin has not been wound evenly.— Rewind

bobbin.

“There are nicks or burrs at needle plate opening.

— Replace needle plate or smooth out burrs.

Needle breaks.
“Fabric is being pulled or pushed against

^machine feeding action. — Guide it gently.
“Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric

— See page 11.

“Needle is not all the way up into the needle

clamp (see page 11).

“Presser foot holder is not fastened securely.

— Retighten presser foot thumb screw.

THREAD PROBLEMS

Thread bunches.
“Top and bobbin threads are not drawn back

under presser foot before starting seam.

- Draw both threads back under presser foot

. about 6" (15 cm) and hold until a few stitches

are formed.

Needle thread breaks.
“Machine is started too fast. - Start to sew at

a slower speed.

“Machine is not threaded correctly — See

page 12.

“Top thread tension is too tight. - Decrease

top thread tension.
Needle size not correct for thread and fabric

-See page 11. '

Eye of needle has sharp edges. - Replace

needle.
Tfiere are nicks or burrs at needle plate opening.

- Replace needle plate or smooth out burrs.

Bobbin thread breaks.

“Bobbin case is not threaded correctly. — See

page 10.
Lint acumulated in bobbin case or shuttle

- Remove lint (see page35). '

Fabric puckers.

Top and bobbin thread tensions are too tight.

^ — Adjust thread tensions (see page 14)

Two different sizes or types of thread are used

~ thread on top

and in bobbin.

•Needle is bent or blunt. - Replace needle.
Stitch length is too long for sheer or soft

tabric. - Shorten stitch length or use underlay
of tissue paper.

Presser foot holder is not fastened securely

- Retighten presser foot thumb screw.

36

3 5. CPTIOWAL EXTRA

On the foliowing pages you will find
illustrated and described a number of

'optional extra' to increase still further its

sewing performance.

' E¥EW FEED FOOT

Even Feed Foot enables you to sew hard-to-sew

fabrics without sliding or slipping and with
perfect matching. Use it for sewing leather,
ultra suede, shiny fabrics (vinyls, patents and

satins), bonded fabrics, pile fabrics and
matching stripes, plaids and patterns. It is not
recommended for use when stretch stitching.

To attach the even feed foot;

I Raise the needle to its highest position. Raise

the presser foot lever.

2. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw and

remove the presser foot holder.

3. Guide the even feed foot into position from

the rear of the machine.

4. Attach the presser bar clamp to the presser
bar and tighten the presser foot screw with

the screwdriver.

5. Attach the screw (A) provided with the foot

to the needle clamp through the fork arm and
tighten securely.

Further details of their availability, together
with the current price can be obtained from
the place from which you purchased your
machine, or in case of difficulty direct from

ourselves.

Presser bar

Needle

clamp

Presser foot

thumb screw

Presser bar

clamp

Fork arm

TUFTING FOOT

This special presser foot is designed to make

Thread loops or tufts which can be utilized for
embroidery sewing or tailor's tacks.

Machine settings:

Stitch selector - 2nd or 3rd of the narrow

zig-zag stitches

Thread tension control - 0

EMBROIDERY

Attractive embroidery designs decorated with

thread tufts are produced by using this foot with
stitch length control between 0 and 1.

TAILOR'S TACKS

Tailor's tacks are used to transfer construction

marking from paper pattern onto double layers
of fabric. Set stitch length control between 0
and 1 or use darning plate. Sew several stitches

and then guide the fabric with your hands

Repeat this process. To remove pattern, cut top

thread loops and thread between tacks.
Separate the layers of fabric clipping thread

between them.

37

OVERCASTliye TOOT

This special foot is used to guide the fabric
when overcasting. Use a zig-zag width so
that the needle will span the metal spring on

the foot.
Place the fabric so that the metal spring on

the foot rides on the right edge of the fabric.

Zig-zag stitch around the raw edge of the
fabric so that it is completely covered.

ROLLER FOOT

V- - ■■■I

m i

m

When sewing leather, suede, plastic and
velvet, fit the roller foot to aid the smooth
flow of fabric. However, especially when

sewing softer leather and suede, better

results may be achieved by using the normal

zig-zag foot.

LEATHER/SUEDE

It is easy to sew leather and suede with this

machine to make clothes, bags, belts, purses
etc, but remember that a longer stitch length
IS usually required. You can seam, top-stitch,

satin stitch, embroider, monogram, appliqué,
patchwork, and apply decorative stitches

-just as you can with other fabrics.

PLASTIC
For good results, use a longer stitch length

and use only straight stitch or zig-zag.

VELVET
Use the roller foot to prevent presser foot

marks appearing on velvet. Otherwise sew as
other fabrics.

rmm MEEDLE

Twin neaiie is available as an optional extra. Tc^ thread Vision contrd

A twin-needle produces two rows of parallel
stitches for pin tucks, double top stitching
and decorative sewing.

Use only the following stitches when sewing

with twin-needles.

1. Straight stitch

2. First of the 5 narrow zig-zag stitches

3. Blind stitch

4. Triple straight stitch
Never use a twin-needle wider than 1/12''

(1.8 mm).

Never set zig-zag width with twin-needles
beyond the range illustrated alongside.

THREADING TWIN-NEEDLES

1. Fit the extra spool pin as shown in page 7.
Place a spool on each spool pin. Thread
the two threads as one using the double
thread guides provided. Draw one thread
through each of these and then through

each needle from front to back.

2. Pick up bobbin thread as for single needle
sewing. Pull the three threads together

under the presser foot to the back of the
machine, leaving about 6” (15 cm) clear.

39

2.; ■ . .. ■:

....................................

V / I

TURNING A CORNER USING A

TWIN NEEDLE

1. Use the hand wheel to stop stitching with
the right-hand needle (the longer of the

two) just piercing the fabric. Turn the

fabric through 45°

Take one stitch, leaving the right-hand
needle piercing the fabric again, and turn

the fabric through another 45°. Continue
sewing.

PIN TUCKS

SETTINGS

Stitch selector ­Stitch length -

For making pin tucks on shirts and dresses in
fine fabrics, set your machine as above.
Sew one row of double stitches and remove
the fabric. Sewing in ihe same direction,

make parallel rows of double stitches 1 /12” -

3/12" (2-6 mm) apart.

TWIN TOP-STITCHING
For twin lop-stitching of lapels, collars, cuffs

etc., set your machine as follows:
Stitch selector - |

Stitch length - 3-4

2-3

I

40

*>-*• < '.r*- '■‘-r