SINGER ....Makes great vacuum cleaners, too!
A good vacuum cleaner is like a good sewing machine. You use it day in, day out. It works hard. You expect years of dependable service.
You already know we make great sewing machines. But did you know we also make great vacuum cleaners? And we've been making them for over 46 years, with the same pride that goes into every Singer product.
For carpets, there's our Golden Powermaster * upright Model U-69; it has our twinfan suction system that distributes suction power evenly over the entire nozzle. (Fact: Only Singer makes a two fan system.) Plus one of the largest disposable
dust bags in the industry. The high performance vibrator brush (approx. 4000 rpm) first shakes dirt free, then sweeps, then air-washes your carpet—that's triple action cleaning power!
Stulist.
SINGER
INGER
sewing machine
For floors and above-the-floor jobs, we have powerful canister cleaners . like our Golden Glide * canister Model C-17... which offers a two stage motor with 3.3 peak horsepower! Plus a pair of 'pop-up' indicators. One tells you when your bag should be changed; the other (an exclusive to Singer) lets you know if you've accidentally clogged your cleaner with socks, matchbooks, etc. . . That's fail-safe cleaning! Plus an air-power control console that lets you adjust the suction power to 6 different cleaning jobs . including carpets. The C-17 has a separate motor-driven powerhead (for carpet cleaning) which adjusts to 4 different carpet pile heights!
And, there are other upright and canister models to choose from. Come in and see them today.
SINGER The first name in sewing, the last word in cleaning.
* A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
CONGRATULATIONS .
You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new Stylist* Zig-Zag Sewing Machine by SINGER. We know you are eager to get started on a sewing project... but we urge you to become familiar with this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the benefit of all the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that you keep the following points in mind :
- Choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or faulty stitching. The Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table on page 11 will help you make a perfect choice.
- Make sure that the needle is not bent or blunt. If the needle is damaged—or improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause skipped stitches. See page 9 for instructions.
- Follow the instructions on page 15 for threading the machine. Note particularly the directions for threading the tension discs.
- Place the thread properly when you insert a wound bobbin. Page 14 tells you how to do this perfectly.
- Become familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length (page 18), presser-foot pressure (page 19), and thread tension (page 20). Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine l
- Clean the machine regularly, as instructed on page 61. Don't allow thread ends to accumulate in the bobbin case area—they can cause jamming or excessive noise.
- Remember that expert, dependable SINGER* service is always available. If your sewing machine should require maintenance or repair, be sure to call your Singer Sewing Center or Authorized Singer Dealer. You will find the number listed under SINGER COMPANY in your telephone book.
Copyright C 1978 THE SIN
Above all, do enjoy sewing !
CONTENTS
| Getting to Know Your SINGER* Sewing Machine Principal Parts—And What They Do Accessories—And When to Use Them Accessories | 2 2 6 |
|---|---|
| Getting Ready to Sew Preliminary Steps Choosing Needle and Thread Threading Your Sewing Machine |
10
10 11 |
| Straight Stitching Adjusting Selectors Sewing a Seam |
17
18 21 |
|
Zig-Zag Stitching
Basic Zig-Zag Patterns Flexi-Stitch * Patterns |
25
25 29 |
|
Twin-Needle Stitching
Preparation Threading the Needle |
32
32 33 |
| Buttons and Buttonholes |
34
34 35 |
| Sewing the Professional Way Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics Construction Details Decorative Touches Tubular Bed Sewing Keeping Up Appearances |
38
38 44 51 53 57 |
|
Caring For Your Machine
Cleaning the Machine Removing Bobbin Case, Face Plate and Bulb Performance Checklist |
61
61 62 64 |
| Special Accessories for Special Jobs | 66 |
| Your Personal Measurement Chart | 69 |
| Index | 70 |
| To be distributed freely. If you paid for this, you were ripped off by another site. | 1 |
| Scanned by www.jenorton.com |
SINGER SEWING MACHINE
and what they do
- 1. Bobbin-Winder Tension Disc regulates thread tension for bobbin winding.
- Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an allpurpose setting plus settings for extra-light and extra-heavy pressure, and for darning.
- 3. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.
- Presser-Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and lower presser foot. High-lift position allows easy placement of bulky fabrics.
- 5. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience.
- 6. Needle Clamp holds single and twin needles and is designed to eliminate the possibility of inserting needle backwards.
- 7. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. The feet snap off for quick removal.
- 8. Needle Plate lifts out for easy removal. Guidelines on right and left sides extend to slide plate to help you keep seams straight.
- 9. Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.
- 10. Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replacement of the bobbin, and raises and lowers the pin that holds the needle plate in place.
- 11. Extension Table lets you convert the machine for either flat or tubular bed sewing.
- 12. Extension Table Release Push Button unlocks the extension table.
- 13. Sewing Light illuminates the sewing area.
- 14. Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial sets the machine for Flexi-Stitch pattern sewing and varies the balance of Flexi-Stitch patterns in order to obtain desired pattern appearance. Dial must be set in O (off) position when not in use.
- 15. Hand Wheel positions take-up lever and needle. Always turn it toward you.
- 16. Bobbin Winder lets you fill the bobbin with thread quickly and easily.
- 17. Spool Holder with Horizontal Pin holds thread spools of various sizes. Holder lets thread unwind without tug or drag.
- Snap-in Thread Guide Post provides smooth flow of thread from spool holder to tension discs.
accessories . and when to use them
The accessories that come with your Stylist sewing machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. Additional accessories, listed on page 66 at the back of this instruction book, are available for purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.
Straight-Stitch Needle Plate
Feed-Cover Needle Plate
GENERAL-PURPOSE FOOT AND NEEDLE PLATE
The general-purpose foot and the generalpurpose needle plate are in place on the machine. Ideal for all utility sewing, these fittings can be used for either straight or zig-zag stitching. Always use them together when alternating between straight and zig-zag stitching.
STRAIGHT-STITCH FOOT AND NEEDLE PLATE
he straight-stitch toot and the straight titch needle plate are used when your abric or sewing procedure requires close ontrol.
Especially useful for:
- Precision stitching of curved and scalloped edges, topstitching, edge stitching etc.
- Stitching delicate or spongy fabrics, synthetics, and knits.
FEED-COVER NEEDLE PLATE
The feed-cover needle plate replaces the general-purpose needle plate (or straight stitch needle plate) when fabric feeding is not desired. Use it for button sewing (page 34) and free-motion darning (page 60).
SPECIAL-PURPOSE FOOT
The special-purpose foot is used with the general-purpose needle plate for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use it for:
- Zig-zag satin stitching
- Ornamental stitching with Flexi-Stitch patterns
- Appliqué
- Twin-needle stitching
BUTTONHOLE FOOT
The buttonhole foot is used with the general-purpose needle plate to make four-step, bar-tack buttonholes in fabrics of light and medium weight. For instructions, see page 36.
ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is used to place stitching close to a raised edge. Thus, it is as useful for corded seams and tubular cording as it is for zipper insertion (page 46). It can be fitted to either the right or the left side of the needle and may be used with the straight-stitch or general-purpose needle plate.
BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE
The blindstitch hem guide is used with the general-purpose foot to position the hem fold for blindstitch hemming (page 48). To attach, simply loosen presser-foot screw and slip guide between screw and presser-foot shank. Position guide so that it clears both slide plate and presser-foot toe. Tighten screw.
Blindstitch Hem Guide
ACCESSORIES (Continued)
Changing Presser Foot
Changing Needle Plate
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
The presser feet that are supplied with your machine snap on and off a common shank. To change the foot:
- 1. Raise presser-foot lifter and turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to its highest position.
- 2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as it will go) and then snap down to remove the foot.
- Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so that the shank fits over the presserfoot pin.
- 4. Press down on presser-foot screw until foot snaps into place.
To remove the complete foot (with shank), as for free-motion darning or embroidery, see page 60, loosen the presser-foot screw and remove shank and foot together.
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES
- Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser-foot lifter (you do not need to remove the presser foot).
- Open slide plate with downward finger pressure. Draw plate toward you, opening it all the way to raise the locking pin that holds the needle plate in place
- Place thumb under right side of needle plate; lift and withdraw plate to the right.
- 4. Insert new needle plate under locking pin and over positioning pin.
- 5. Close slide plate to lower locking pin and secure the needle plate
BOBBINS
Transparent, drop-in bobbin, # 172336, shows thread supply at a glance.
NEEDLES
- Style # 2020 needles for all-purpose sewing.
- Style # 2045 ball-point (yellow band) needle for sewing knits and stretch fabrics.
- Style # 2025 twin needle for decorative twin-needle stitching.
IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER needles. You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabrics.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
The needle clamp is designed so that the needle can only be inserted with the flat side of the needle to the back. To change the needle:
- Raise needle bar to its highest position, loosen needle-clamp screw, and remove needle.
- Insert new needle in clamp, with the flat side of the needle to the back; push it up as far as it will go.
- 3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.
SPOOL HOLDERS
The spool holders hold spools of various sizes in position on the horizontal spool pin. Because the spool does not turn, thread unwinds without tug or drag.
DETACHABLE SPOOL PIN
The secondary detachable spool pin is used for twin-needle stitching.
CONNECTING THE MACHINE Before plugging in your machine, be sure indicated on the plate under the hand
preliminary steps
electrical outlet.
10
OPERATING MACHINE AND
To turn on both machine and sewing light, press power and light switch to
CAUTION: We recommend that you turn off the power and light switch before
To run the machine, press the speed controller. The harder you press, the
To stop the machine from sewing,
choosing needle and thread
The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE
| FABRIC | THREAD | NEEDLES | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Туре | Size | ||
| DELICATE—tulle, chiffon, fine lace, organza |
Fine polyester, nylon,
and cotton thread |
STYLE
2020 (15x1) |
9 |
|
LIGHTWEIGHT—batiste,
organdy, jersey, voile, taffeta, crepe, chiffon, velvet, plastic film |
50 mercerized cotton
"A" silk Polyester thread Cotton-wrapped polyester |
STYLE
2020 (15x1) |
11 |
|
MEDIUM WEIGHT—gingham,
percale, pique, linen, chintz, faille, satin, fine corduroy, velvet, suitings, deep-pile fabrics, vinyl |
50 mercerized cotton
60 cotton ''A'' silk Polyester thread Cotton-wrapped polyester |
STYLE
2020 (15x1) |
14 |
|
MEDIUM HEAVY—gabardine,
tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings, drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile fabrics |
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton 40 to 60 cotton Polyester thread |
STYLE
2020 (15x1) |
16 |
|
HEAVY—overcoatings,
denim, upholstery fabrics, canvas |
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton 24 to 40 cotton Polyester thread |
STYLE
2020 (15x1) |
18 |
|
ALL WEIGHTS—decorative
straight stitch topstitching in woven fabrics |
″D" silk†
(Buttonhole twist) |
STYLE
2020 (15x1) |
16
or 18 |
|
KNIT, WOVEN, STRETCH
and ELASTIC FABRICS— polyester doubleknit, spandex, nylon, tricot, ciré tricot, jersey, panné velvet |
"A" nylon
50 mercerized cotton "A" silk Cotton-wrapped polyester |
STYLE
2045 Ball-Point (Yellow Band) |
14 |
|
LEATHER—suede, kidskin,
capeskin, lambskin, lined leathers |
50 mercerized cotton
Polyester thread "A" silk Cotton-wrapped polyester |
STYLE
2032 (15x2) |
11
14 16 |
|
LIGHT and MEDIUM
WEIGHTS—decorative twin-needle stitching in woven fabrics |
50 mercerized cotton |
STYLE
2025 (twin) |
14 |
† Use with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.
threading your sewing machine
Like all sewing machines that produce what is called a "lockstitch", your Stylist sewing machine sews with two threads. The upper thread comes from the spool and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the
THE SPOOL HOLDER
- Remove spool holder from spindle by
- Place spool of thread on horizontal
- Select correct spool holder according
Press spool holder firmly against spool.
THE BOBBIN THREAD Winding the Bobbin
- Press hand wheel disc at bobbin
- Open slide plate. Draw plate toward
- Lift out the bobbin and close slide plate
- Place spool of thread on spool pin. Snap thread in the thread guide post then lead thread around bobbin winder
- Pass thread, from the inside, through hole in bobbin and place bobbin on
- Push bobbin and spindle to the right to engage the bobbin winder. Hold thread end as shown and start the • Cut off thread end after a few coils
- When required amount of thread has
- Push bobbin and spindle toward the left to disengage bobbin winder. Re-
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
thread unwinds in direction shown, and put bobbin in bobbin case.
3. Draw about three inches of thread
4. Close slide plate allowing thread to
THE NEEDLE THREAD
Threading the Needle
- 1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever
- 2. Place spool of thread on spool holder
- Hold thread as illustrated while guiding
- Thread tension discs as illustrated.
- Thread take-up lever from back to front,
- Thread needle from front to back, drawing about four inches (10 cms) of thread through eye of needle.
15
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, you will need to raise in the needle plate.
- 1. Hold needle thread lightly with left
- 2. Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises. Tighten your hold on the needle thread and bring up bobbin thread in a loop.
3. Open the loop with your fingers.
- 4. Place both needle and bobbin threads under presser foot, and draw to back of
- ... You are now ready to sew
- Needle Position:
SETTING THE MACHINE
- Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to off
- Move needle position selector to center 1
- Set stitch width selector on
CHOOSING ACCESSORIES
Best results will be obtained if you use the straight-stitch foot and needle plate.
STARTING TO SEW
- Place needle and bobbin threads under
- Position the needle in the fabric where stitching should start.
- · Lower the presser foot and start the
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of following pages.
For information on straight stretch stitch-
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
adjusting selectors for your fabric
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length selector controls the length of stitches. The numbers around the edge of the selector dial express stitch length in stitches per inch; the higher the number, the shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. The FINE area is used for the adjustment of ziq-zaq satin stitching.
Setting Selector
- Turn dial so that the stitch length desired is positioned under the arrowhead V on the control panel.
- To shorten the stitch, turn the dial clockwise to a higher number.
- To lengthen the stitch, turn the dial counterclockwise to a lower number.
For reverse stitching, press the reversestitch push button (located in the center of the dial) in as far as it will go and hold in place (the button can be pushed in while the machine is sewing). Release pressure on the push button to return to forward stitching
Stitch Length Dial
(For detailed instructions on adjusting the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching, see page 28.)
ADJUSTING PRESSURE
The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct pressure is important because it enables the fabric to feed smoothly and evenly, without being marred. The NORM (normal) setting is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics of different weights and textures. Intermediate notched settings, above and below NORM (normal), are also provided. When you need extra control, regulate the setting for heavier or lighter pressure to suit the fabric being sewn.
When darning without an embroidery hoop, set the dial at the lowest setting, # .See page 59 for instructions.
Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.
- To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward MAX (maximum).
- To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward #.
- For darning, set dial on # .
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
REGULATING THREAD TENSION
Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use and examine it. A perfect stitch will have the needle and bobbin threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no puckers.
Needle-Thread Tension
The tension dial regulates the degree of tension on your needle thread. Set it according to the type of thread and fabric you use. The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.
If the stitches in your test sample look loose, increase needle-thread tension. If the fabric puckers, decrease tension.
- To increase tension, turn dial to higher number.
- To decrease tension, turn dial to lower number.
sewing a seam
STARTING A SEAM
1. Set stitch length selector for desired number of stitches per inch.
2. With presser foot up, align fabric with appropriate seam guideline on needle plate (as described below). Position needle in fabric about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) from the back edge.
8. Lower presser foot. Backstitch to the edge of the fabric for reinforcement by pushing in the reverse-stitch push button located in the center of the stitch length selector dial. Hold the button until the stitches reach almost the edge of the fabric and then release for forward stitching.
KEEPING THE SEAM STRAIGHT
As you stitch, use one of the numbered lines on the needle plate as a guide for keeping the seams straight. Numbers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch from the needle. If you want a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam, for example, keep the right-hand edge of your fabric on the number 5 guideline.
20
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
Pivoting at Corn
TURNING SQUARE CORNERS
To turn a square corner 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) from the fabric edge, you need not measure or mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the slide plate.
- Line up your fabric with right or left guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch seam, slowing speed as you approach corner.
- Stop stitching, with the needle down, when the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the cornering crosslines on the slide plate.
- Raise presser foot and turn fabric on needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.
- Lower the presser foot and stitch in new direction.
GUIDING AND SUPPORTING THE FABRIC
Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Some fabrics, however, require support while being stitched. Filmy sheers, panné velvet, and tricots, for example, need to be held taut in front and back of the presser foot while being sewn.
For information on sewing knit and stretch fabrics with zig-zag stitching, refer to page 38.
CAUTION : Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle causing it to break.
Guiding Fabric
Pin basting is a time-saver and can be used when you sew easy-to-handle fabric. Use fine pins and place them:
- On top of the fabric (never on the underside in contact with the feed).
- At right angles to the stitching line.
- Just nipping into the fabric at the stitching line (never extending under both sides of the presser foot).
CURVED SEAMS
- Use a short stitch length for elasticity and strength. For example, if you use 12 stitches per inch for straight seams, select 15 to 20 per inch to stitch curved seams in the same fabric.
- 2. For the greatest accuracy, use the straight-stitch foot and needle plate.
23
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
REINFORCING END OF SEAM
Stitch to the fabric edge. Backstitch 1/2 inch (1 cm) to reinforce the end of the seam by pushing in the reverse-stitch push button and then releasing.
TO REMOVE WORK
3. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of presser bar.
24
ZIG-ZAG STITCHING
The zig-zag stitches built in to your sewing machine include basic zig-zag patterns and Flexi-Stitch patterns. Basic zig-zag patterns and their selector settings are shown below; information on Flexi-Stitch patterns starts on page 29. You will find instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these patterns in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way" beginning on page 38.
basic zig-zag patterns
ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)
Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension
ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN
Before moving selector, make sure stitch length dial is OFF buttonhole settings and needle is above fabric
To produce a zig-zag stitch pattern, move the stitch width selector dial from the straight-stitch setting ! to any zig-zag setting to the right. Stitch width is increased as the dial is moved to the right.
ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT
Before moving selector, make sure stitch length dial is OFF buttonhole settings
Most of your basic zig-zag stitching will be done in center ( ) needle position. Left ( ) and right ( ) settings are used for special stitch placement, as in
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
Any stitch length setting from 6 to 25 will give you an open zig-zag stitch of the basic zig-zag stitch pattern you select. The lower the number, the more open, or farther apart, your stitches will be. The FINE stitch area, between 0 and 25 on the dial is used for adjusting zig-zag satin stitching (see next page for specific instructions).
Stitch Length Dial
ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND CHOOSING ACCESSORIES
Turn to page 19 under "Straight Stitching" for instructions on adjusting pressure.
For information on choosing accessories refer to pages 6 and 7 and to detailed instructions for sewing with zig-zag stitch patterns included in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way" that starts on page 38.
Special-Purpos Foot
26
ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION
Basic zig-zag stitching requires less needle-thread tension than straight stitching. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust the tension properly. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric without causing the fabric to pucker.
If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the dial to a lower number.
ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)
Adjusting Stitch Length
satin stitching
Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig-zag stitches that form a smooth, satinlike surface, is useful for both practical and decorative work.
for appliqué or bar tacks, for example, make a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp lawn or organdy is suitable for this purpose.
ACCESSORIES AND SELECTOR SETTINGS
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
- Pattern Selector:
- Needle Position: 💄
- Stitch Width: $ to
- Stitch Length: FINE
- General Purpose Needle Plat
- Special Purpose Foot
- Pressure: NORM
Adjusting Stitch Length
- 1. Turn stitch length selector dial to 2. (the beginning of FINE area).
- Run the machine at a slow speed. Gradually turn the stitch length dial
- clockwise until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth surface.
Adjusting Thread Tension
Satin stitching requires less tension than straight stitching or open zig-zag stitching. Furthermore, the wider the stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread must be. Notice the stitching on your sample. If the fabric is puckered, lower the needlethread tension by turning the tension dial to a lower number.
Flexi-Stitch patterns
With your Stylist sewing machine you can sew four Flexi-Stitch patterns. Instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these patterns begin on page 38.
Flexi-Stitch PATTERNS
To Sew a Flexi-Stitch Pattern Use Red Selector Settings
- Set Flexi-Stitch pattern dial on red
- Set pattern selector for desired stitch.
- Set Stitch length dial on red 📟 .
- Adjust stitch placement, stitch width, thread tension, and stitch balance as instructed on following pages.
- Sew at moderate spee
Setting Stitch Pattern Selector Set the stitch width selector on before
moving the stitch pattern selector. For ric-rac stitch
- Move pattern selector to ≤≤ .
- For slant overedge stitch
- Move pattern selector to
For feather stitch
• Move pattern selector to
- For straight stretch stitch
- Any pattern selector setting at stitch width
FLEXI-STITCH PATTERNS (Continued)
Adjusting Width of Design
Adjusting Stitch Placement
30
ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN
To produce a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the stitch width selector must be moved from the straight-stitch setting to a setting from to S. Stitch width is increased as the dial is moved to the right. On setting all width is removed from Flexi-Stitch patterns and the straight
ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT
ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD
Some Flexi-Stitch patterns require more
Before moving needle position and stitch
SETTING STITCH LENGTH DIAL
When you use a Flexi-Stitch pattern, stitch length is controlled with a single setting of the stitch length dial. No further adjustment should be made.
To set, turn dial until red bar ■ is centered under the arrowhead ▼ on the control panel.
NOTE: Stitching cannot be reversed when the Flexi-Stitch pattern dial is on red Flexi-Stitch setting.
ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE
You may need to adjust the Flexi-Stitch pattern dial when using a Flexi-Stitch pattern in order to achieve the correct pattern appearance. Before you move the Flexi-Stitch pattern dial from its neutral position (red bar ■ centered under ▼), make a test sample. If adjustment is required, stitch slowly and move the control dial as you sew.
- Turn the dial to the right to bring stitches of the pattern together.
- Turn the dial to the left to separate stitches of the pattern.
ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND CHOOSING ACCESSORIES
Turn to page 19 under "Straight Stitching" for instructions on adjusting pressure. For information on choosing accessories refer to detailed instructions for sewing with Flexi-Stitch patterns included in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way", which starts on page 38.
Stitch Length Dial
Turn Dial to Left to Separate Stitches
Adjusting Stitch Balance
TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING
By using a twin needle, you can produce
preparation SETTING THE MACHINE
Straight Stitching
- Needle Position: 💄 only
- Stitch Width:
Zig-Zag Stitching
- Pattern Selector: S or S or S or
- Needle Position 💄 only
Twin-needle stitching can also be pro-duced using a Flexi-Stitch pattern. Select
Use SINGER* twin needle, Style 2025 (size 14).
INSERTING THE TWIN NEEDLE
Before inserting the twin needle, make
To insert the twin needle, simply raise
threading for twin-needle stitching
For best results, use No. 50 mercerized or synthetic thread. Thread the
ATTACHING A BUTTON
UTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES
buttons
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
- Pattern Selector:
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width: See illustrations at left
- Feed Cover Needle Plate
- General Purpose or Special Purpose Foot
Flat buttons can be sewn on quickly and easily using the plain zig-zag stitch pattern. The space between the holes in the button determines stitch width settings. For buttons with standard hole spacing, use settings i and as shown. For buttons with unusual hole spacing, use setting i and increase or decrease the width ( $ ) as necessary.
Attach feed-cover needle plate (see page 8), and turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to O .
- Set stitch width at and needle position at (left). Position button under foot and lower needle into center of left hole by turning hand wheel toward you. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of button and is just above the foot. Set stitch width at medium-wide zig-
- 2. Set stitch width at medium-wide zigzag ( §) setting. Check stitch width by turning hand wheel slowly toward you; the needle should enter the right hole of the button. Take six or more zig-zag stitches to attach button. End on left side.
- 3. To fasten stitching, return to stitch width and take three or four stitches.
Replace feed-cover needle plate with the general-purpose needle plate when work is completed.
NOTE: For best results, and when using buttons less than one inch (2.5 cm) in diameter, the Button Sewing Foot is recommended (see page 66).
buttonholes
BUTTONHOLE POSITION
Accurate guidelines are essential to keep buttonholes a uniform distance from faced edge of garment, evenly spaced, and on grain of fabric. For center closures, place guidelines as follows:
- 1. Mark center line of garment as indicated on your pattern. This guideline can be hand basted and should follow a lengthwise fabric thread.
- 2. Mark a position guideline for each buttonhole.
- Horizontal buttonholes are placed to extend 1/8 inch (3 mm) beyond centerline basting of garment. Horizontal guidelines for buttonholes should follow a crosswise thread of fabric and if basted, be longer than finished length of buttonhole. Determine length of buttonhole (as described below) and mark ends of each buttonholevertically.
- Vertical buttonholes are placed so that center-line basting of garment is in center of buttonholes. Determine buttonhole length and mark ends of each buttonhole horizontally across center line and use center-line basting as a buttonhole guide when stitching.
BUTTONHOLE LENGTH
First, decide how long button opening must be. Then, add 1/16 inch (2 mm) to measurement for each bar tack (closing stitches at each end of buttonhole). To find length of button opening, cut a slit in a scrap of fabric the diameter of button you intend to use. Increase length of opening until button slips through easily.
Lengthwise Grain
FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLES
As you turn the dial for each step, your
Always make a test buttonhole on a
PROCEDURE
Step 1: Side Stitching
Turn buttonhole dial clockwise to step 1
Step 2: Bar Tack
Raise needle above fabric by turning hand
Step 3: Side Stitching
Raise the needle above the fabric.
Step 4: Bar Tack
Raise the needle above the fabric.
buttonhole twice. When stitching the
BALANCING THE TWO LINES
- Begin with the stitch-density balance
SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY
sewing knit and stretch fabric
When you sew stretch fabric, doubleknit, tricot and jersey, choose one of the stitch patterns that sew stretch into the seam. A wide variety of different stitches are available so you can choose just the right one for your fabric and sewing job. The table below will help you make the right selection.
Remember to use a SINGER ball-point needle (Style # 2045) on the machine when you attach elastic or sew a knit or stretch fabric.
STRETCH STITCH CHART
| Stitch | Where to Use | |
|---|---|---|
| Straight Stretch Stitch |
Plain seams that s-t-r-e-t-c-h (press-open or
closed construction) — Crotch seaming — Sleeve and gusset insertion — Flexible topstitching — Swim and ski suit construction — Attaching patch pockets — Repairing and reinforcing seams. |
|
| ξ | Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag | Attaching elastic and stretch lace — Lingerie and swimsuit construction — Girdle seams — Seam finishes — Casings and waistband finishes. |
| WWWWW | Plain Zig-Zag Stitch |
All-purpose stretch sewing — Lingerie seams —
Attaching stay tapes — Seam finishing — Edge finishing — Attaching stretch lace. |
| * | Ric-Rac Stitch |
Heavy-duty, all-purpose stretch sewing —
Reversible topstitch applications. |
| VV | Blindstitch |
Flexible blindstitch hemming — Overcast seam
finishing — Shell hems in lingerie — Ladder seams — Blindstitch zipper insertion. |
| 衮 | Feather Stitch |
Swimsuit seams — Attaching stretch lace —
Lingerie and girdle seams. |
| 111 | Slant Overedge Stitch | Overedge seams that stretch in sportswear, knitwear, slacks, and bathing suits. |
PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red
- Pattern Selector: Any setting
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width:
- Stitch Length Dial: Red 💻
- General Purpose Needle Plate
- General Purpose Former
- · Speed: Moderate
When you use the straight stretch stitch to seam knit, stretch, and elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and strength are built in as the seam is being sewn. Because it is equally useful for closed or press-open seam construction and will not break thread under stress, the straight stretch stitch is also good for seams that receive an unusual amount of strain when worn. For example: crotch seaming, sleeve insertion, and construction seams in sportswear and bathing suits.
Procedure
1. Make a test sample to determine thread tension and stitch balance.
GUIDING AND SUPPORTING
Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Simply increase presser bar pressure and let the machine move the fabric to make the stitches that give s - t - r - e - t - c - h to the seam. Some fabrics, however, require
support while being stitched.
For nyton tricot, cire, panné velvet and similar synthetic knits, apply gent/e tension by holding fabric taut in front and back of the presser foot as you sew.
Be sure to insert a ball-point (yellow band) needle in machine if you are stitching a synthetic knit fabric, and increase presser bar pressure if necessary.
Stitch and guide fabric as you do for plain seams stitched with the regular straight stitch. letting the machine make the backand-forth stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. If
fabric has an unusual amount of elasticity, it should be stitched under tension as instructed below under "Guiding and Supporting Fabric."
3. Press seam as when using the regular straight stitch.
CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle causing it to break.
SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC (Continued)
ATTACHING ELASTIC
Elastic will remain stretchable when it is
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width: $ or $ (maximum)
- Stitch Length: About 20 General Purpose Needle Plate
LADDER SEAMS
- Stitch Width: ≩ (maximum)
After stitching, open seam by pulling seam has been opened.
LINGERIE SEAMS
To make seams in lingerie durable and
Method #1
Method # 2
For a narrow seam:
seam allowance.
For a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam:
- Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch width at { ) on wrong side of fabric.
- From the right side, topstitch with
• Trim away excess fabric close to stitching to produce a narrow seam edge.
• Straight-stitch seamline on wrong side
Place a line of medium-width, open
stitching. (Stitch width medium
SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRICS (Continued)
Method # 2 — Mock Overedging
OVEREDGED SEAMS
Seams in knit and stretch fabric can be joined and finished in one operation with the slant overedge stretch stitch. Two different methods may be used. Method # 1 (overedging) is recommended for firm fabrics in garments where a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance is adequate. Method # 2 (mock overedging) is most appropriate for bulky knits and fabrics that have a tendency to curl or fray and should be used where a wider seam allowance is needed. Make a test sample to help you decide which method is best for your fabric and garment. Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test.
Remember to use a ball-point (yellow band), Style 2045, Size 14 needle in your machine if you are sewing a sýnthetic knir
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red
- Pattern Selector: ∃
- Needle Position: 💄
- Stitch Width: ≥ (maximum)
- Stitch Length Dial: Red 💼
- General Purpose Needle Plat
- General Purpose Foot
- Speed: Moderate
Method #1 — Overedging
- 1. Cut and fit the garment allowing for a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance. Baste seamline.
- Trim seam edges evenly to a scant 1/4 inch (6 mm) from seamline basting.
- Place trimmed seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seamline and the zig-zag stitches fall over the seam edge.
Method#2 — Mock Overedging
When it is not practical to overedge a seam because of the construction of the garment or the fabric, a mock overedge finish can be applied. This finish is appropriate for bulky knits, fine tricots, and fabrics that curl or frav.
Make a test sample before beginning garment construction to test machine adjustments. Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test, and use a ball-
point (yellow band) needle if you are sewing a synthetic knit fabric.
- Cut and fit the garment allowing for a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance. Baste seamline.
- 3. Place seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the seamline basting.
- Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric to produce a narrow seam edge. When the seam supports the garment, omit the trimming step.
FINISHES FOR HEMS AND FACINGS
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial
- Pattern Selector: ···: or
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width: $ (maximum)
- Stitch Length: 8 to 25 (depending on fabric) General Purpose Needle Plate
- General Purpose Foot
Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fabrics will be less apt to press through and mark when given a flat edge finish. Edge finishing with the multi-stitch zig-zag or blindstitch, eliminates the bulk of turned-in edges and retains fabric flexibility.
- 1. Make a test sample.
- 2. Place stitching close to hem or facing edge.
- Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line if necessary
Finished Facing
hints on sewing special fabrics
LEATHER-LOOK VINYL
- Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching.
- Stitch with a slightly longer-thannormal stitch. A short stitch may cut the fabric.
- Sew with a steady, even pace and stitch accurately. Seams cannot be ripped out without leaving needle marks in the fabric.
- The shiny side of some vinyls tends to stick to metal surfaces. Use a strip of tissue paper between the fabric and metal machine surfaces to prevent this.
- Topstitching holds seams and garment edges smooth and flat and adds a decorative note.
- Reinforce button and buttonhole areas with interfacing. Bound buttonholes are the best choice for vinyls with knit backing.
- For sharp points on collars and lapels, take one or two stitches diagonally across the point to allow enough space to smoothly enclose the seam edge.
CIRÉ (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot)†
- Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching.
- Stitch accurately; seams cannot be ripped out because needle marks remain in the fabric.
- Sew seams under light tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and back of needle.
- Stitch ciré taffeta with a fairly long stitch and use an enclosed edge finish for seams and hems.
- Stitch ciré knits with a medium-length stitch and use a fine ball-point needle.
- Machine-worked buttonholes (as well as bound buttonholes) can be made in ciré fabric. Always use an interfacing and make sure the close zig-zag stitches do not cut the fabric.
†The Even Feed Foot described on page 66 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.
DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur)
- Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place pins at close intervals at right angles to the seamline. Pins with colored heads are easy to see and remove.
- Sew in direction of nap.
- Stitch with a fairly long stitch and use cotton-wrapped synthetic thread in a size 14 or 16 Style # 2020 needle.
- As seam is stitched, smooth pile away from seam allowance with a darning needle or upholstery pin.
- After stitching seams with a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance, use small hand scissors to shear pile from entire seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Stitch a 1/4 inch (6 mm) pre-shrunk tape into neckline and shoulder seams for stability and reinforcement or stitch with the straight stretch stitch.
- Leather and leather-look tabrics complement fur fabrics; use them for bound buttonholes and easy button loops.
- Coat hems are less bulky if narrow and finished with a 3 inch (8 cm) fabric facing or grosgrain ribbon.
- Slash through the center fold of darts and finger-press open or stitch with a narrow zig-zag stitch. Trim away excess fabric after stitching.
VELVET AND VELVETEEN
- Use a light pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile.
- Mark and baste with silk thread.
- Use a size 11 Style # 2020 needle, and a fine thread for seaming. "A" silk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet.
- Always stitch in the direction of the nap. For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch unde light tension (see page 20). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine basted with a long wide zig-zag stitch.
- When inserting a zipper, use the blindstitch for an almost invisible finish (see page 47).
- To sev pané velvet, use a ball-point needle and a shorter-than-normal stitch length.
The Even Feed Foot described on page 66 is designed to aid in sewing this fabri-
45
construction details
ZIPPERS
At the notions counter in your Singer Sewing Center, you will find many different kinds of zippers, one of which will be just right for whatever you want to sew. The zipper package will contain easy-tofollow instructions for inserting the zipper. And, with the zipper foot, you will find it easy to form an even line of stitching close to the zipper.
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: 0
- Pattern Selector: Any settin
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width:
- General Purpose Needle Plate or Straight Stitch Needle Plate Zipper Foot
Attaching the Zipper Foot
When the zipper is to the right of the needle:
- Move position block on zipper foot to left, to allow shank to enter right side of foot, so that needle will enter right notch in foot.
- When the zipper is to the left of the needle: • Move position block on zipper foot to
- Move position block on zipper foot to right, to allow shank to enter left side of foot, so that needle will enter left notch in foot.
(The zipper foot is snapped onto shank as instructed on page 8.)
CORDED SEAMS
The corded seam is a professional treatment for slipcovers, children's clothes, blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the welting first (or buy it ready-made at a notions counter), then stitch it into the seam. For both steps, use the zipper foot to place the stitching close to the cord.
BLINDSTITCH ZIPPER INSERTION
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial:
- Pattern Selector:
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width: }
- Suton width.
- Stitch Length:
- General Purpose Needle Plate
- · zihhei i
Blindstitching, used instead of straight stitching for the final step in zipper insertion, gives a fine finish that is almost invisible. Ideal for knits, napped fabrics, and sheers.
- 1. Allow for a 7/8 inch (2.2 cm) seam allowance in the zipper area when you cut the garment.
- Insert zipper in the usual way up to the final step; then, turn garment right side out and spread flat with zipper face up.
- 3. Work from the right side and pin zipper tape into position.
- 4. Baste a guideline for blindstitching alongside zipper, about 3/8 inch (1 cm) from garment seam. Make sure basting stitches go through all fabric layers and zipper tape. Remove pins.
- 5. Adjust zipper foot to right side of needle.
- 6. Turn garment wrong side out. Place lower end of zipper tape over feed and turn front section of garment back to line of basting, creating a soft fold to the left of the needle.
- Set stitch width selector and position work so that the straight stitches will go through the seam allowance and zipper tape, and the sideward stitches catch a few threads of the fold.
- Lower zipper foot and stitch slowly. After stitching, remove basting and press lightly.
Making Welting for a
Blindstitching provides a durable hem
- 1. Attach blindstitch hem guide as in-
- 4. Position the hem under the foot with
- 5. Lower the presser foot and stitch so that
TOPSTITCHING
A practical, simple way to accent the foot and sew them with buttonhole twist for added emphasis. For decorative for added emphasis, for decorative interest, use a decorative zig-zag or Flexi-Stitch pattern. To add firmness to hems and seams in knit and stretch
- Pattern Selector: 🔆 or 🗲
- Stitch Width: ≥ (maximum)
- Stitch Length: 20 or to suit fabric
- 1. Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching line.
- 2. Bring raw edges together and pin or
- 3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends of
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS (Continued)
rimming Seam Edges
50
SEAMS IN FABRICS THAT RAVEL
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial:
- Pattern Selector: § or a or S
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width: ≥ or ≥
- Stitch Length: 8 to 20, depending on
- choice of stitch and fabri
- Ceneral Purpose Reedle Fla
Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel.
- 1. Make a test sample first to determine the stitch pattern that best suits your fabric.
- Adjust stitch length and stitch width to suit fabric. Choose the settings that will give you the most "open" stitch that will secure the fabric edges; avoid harsh, over-stitched edges.
- Trim the seam edges evenly. Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance or over the raw edge as illustrated.
- 4. If stitching is placed near the edge of the seam allowance, trim away the excess fabric after stitching.
decorative touches
APPLIQUÉ
Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture combine equally well.
A closely spaced zig-zag stitch is most commonly used in appliqué work, but decorative stitch patterns may also be used effectively. Although you may vary stitch width to accomodate fabric weave or texture, never allow the stitch to be too wide.
When appliqueing, make a test sample to help you decide which of the following methods is most appropriate for your fabric and design.
Preparation
- Baste appliqué design to fabric.
- Outline design with straight stitching (use a short stitch).
- Remove basting and press.
- Attach special-purpose foot (and general-purpose needle plate).
Method # 1 — Trimming after Stitching
- Set machine for desired appliqué stitch and set stitch width. Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch length dial.
- 2. Outline the entire design with appliqué stitching.
- Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of the stitching with embroidery scissors.
Method # 2 — Stitching after Trimming
- 1. Trim outside fabric edges close to straight stitch outline of design.
- Set machine for plain zig-zag stitching and set stitch width. Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch length dial.
- 3. Overedge the design with zig-zag satin stitching. This step will produce a smooth, lustrous finish that requires no additional trimming.
Method 1 Trimming after Stitching
51
SHELL EDGING
- Stitch Width: ≷ to ≥
- Stitch Length: 12 to 25 General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot
On soft, fine fabrics such as tricot, voile
FAGOTING
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red
- Stitch Length: Red General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot
The art of joining two pieces of fabric with
PATCHWORK QUILTING
Patchwork for quilts and wearing apparel,
tubular bed sewing
The tubular bed simplifies fabric handparticularly useful are illustrated. To sewing, press the extension table
TUBULAR BED SEWING (Continued)
HATS, BAGS AND DOLLS' CLOTHES
Use the tubular bed of your machine when you make hats, bags and dolls' clothes. You will find it a real advantage for seaming small circular areas, and in the placement of decorative top stitching.
CUFFS
Attaching a cuff to a gathered sleeve or accenting it with decorative top stitching is greatly simplified when you use the tubular bed. The fabric flows smoothly around the bed giving you full visibility and control of the seam line.
TUBULAR BED SEWING (Continued)
BADGES, EMBLEMS AND
Badges, emblems and insignia of all sizes and shapes can be quickly attached to shirts and uniforms when the tubular bed is used. Slip the sleeve or other hard-to-reach area over the tubular bed and secure emblem with zig-zag sewing.
keeping up appearances
MENDING
Many zig-zag and Flexi-Stitch patterns are just as useful for mending as they are for creative sewing. A few of the ways in which you will find them useful are shown on this and following pages. You will enjoy discovering others for yourself.
Mending a Tear
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial : 0
- Pattern Selector:
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width: ξ or ξ
- Stitch Length: About 20
- General Purpose Needle Pl
- 1. Trim ragged edges.
- Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement. (It is best not to baste or pin the underlay since you will be bringing the edges of tear together in the next step.)
- 3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges of the tear together.
- 4. Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength.
- 5. Trim underlay.
Bar Tacks
Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain, are made with the plain zig-zag stitch at satin stitch length. Use them at pocket corners, to attach garters, secure shoulder straps, belt loops and zipper openings.
Bar-Tacked Beit Loops
KEEPING UP APPEARANCES (Continued)
Stretch Garment Repair
• Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red
- Canaval Durpage Fact
- Speed: Moderate
Seams in stretch garments and lingerie retain their elasticity when stitched with the feather stitch. This Flexi-Stitch pattern builds s-t-r-e-t-c-h into the seam as it is being sewn and is equally suitable when used to topstitch (as shown) or to overedge. Make a test sample to check dial settings.
Repairing Seams
Breaks in press-open seams can be repaired quickly and easily when you use the straight stretch stitch. This flexible stitch is ideal for knit and stretch fabrics and particularly useful for repairing or strengthening curved seams or seams that will receive strain when being worn.
- 1. Make a test sample to check dial settings.
- 2. Remove loose thread along the break and press seam edges together.
- Re-stitch along original seamline, guiding seam under presser foot without stretching fabric, letting the machine move the fabric to make the back-andforth stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. Overlap stitching one inch at each end. Press seam open.
DARNING
Worn or torn spots on children's clothes, knits, and household linens can be darned effortlessly and quickly with little practice. You may choose to darn either with or without an embroidery hoop. When greater control is needed, an embroidery hoop is usually best.
Darning Without Embroidery Hoop
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: 0
- Påttern Selector: Any setting
- Needle Position:
- Stitch Width
- Stitch Length: 12
- General Purpose Needle Pl
- General Purpose Reed General Purpose Foot
- Pressure: #
- 1. If area to be darned is open, baste an underlay in place.
- Place area to be darned under presser foot; lower presser foot and start stitching, alternately drawing fabric toward you and pulling it gently away from you.
- Continue this forward-and-backward motion as you fill the area with parallel lines of stitching. For additional strength, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.
Darning without Embroidery Hoop
Darning with Embroidery Hoop
60
Darning With Embroidery Hoop
- Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
- Pattern Selector: Any setting
- Needle Position: 1
- Stitch Width:
- Stitch Length: In FINE area
- Feed Cover Needle Plate
- No Presser Foot
- · Flesser Dar: Lowered
Preparation
Remove presser foot with shank (by removing the screw which fastens the shank to the presser bar). Attach feedcover needle plate. Instructions for changing the needle plate are given on page 8.
- 1. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned.
- Center worn section in embroidery hoop.
- 3. Position work under needle over feedcover plate and lower presser bar to engage tension.
- Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand wheel over, and draw bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric.
- 5. Outline area to be darned with running stitches for reinforcement.
- Stitch across opening, moving hoop under needle at a slight angle from lower left to upper right. Keep lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length.
- 7. When opening is filled, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.
This method of controlling fabric movement with an embroidery hoop may be used to do embroidering and monogramming.
CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE
cleaning the machine
Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few moments of your time to keep it clean. How often you will need to clean the machine will depend on how often you use it.
CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, disconnect power-line plug from electrical supply.
Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts. With a soft cloth, clean:
- Tension discs, take-up lever, and thread guides.
- Presser bar and needle bar.
- Bobbin case. (If there is an excessive amount of lint in the area, remove the bobbin case for cleaning. See page 62 for instructions.)
- Machine surface. (If necessary, dampen the cloth and use a mild soap.)
Remove face plate as instructed on page 62 and clean area behind it with a lint brush†.
Remove needle plate as instructed on page 8 and, using a brush, clean the rotating hook area under the needle plate and slide plate.
NOTE: Your machine requires no oiling under normal conditions. Your SINGEF representative, or Approved Dealer wil examine the permanently lubricated parts whenever your sewing machine requires servicing.
A lint brush designed for this purpose is available for separate purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.
CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE (Continued)
removing bobbin case, face plate and bulb
CAUTION: Before removing bobbin case, face plate and light bulb, disconnect powerline plug from electrical supply.
REMOVING AND REPLACING BOBBIN CASE
- Raise the presser foot.
- Turn hand wheel toward you until needle is above the presser foot
- Remove needle plate as instructed on page 9.
- Remove bobbin.
To remove bobbin case, turn bobbin case holder to back as far as it will go. Lift out bobbin case.
To replace bobbin case, guide the forked end under the feed and then draw the bobbin case under the position plate as illustrated. Turn holder all the way forward to lock bobbin case in position. After locking bobbin case in position, check that bobbin case is not jammed, but has slight rotational movement
Replace needle plate.
Fully close slide plate to lower the needle plate locking pin and secure the needle plate.
REMOVING FACE PLATE
Loosen and remove screw and remove face plate by sliding it downward.
REPLACING FACE PLATE
- Slide face plate up so that rim is engaged under edge of top cover.
- Align screw hole at lower edge of plate with screw hole in machine and replace and tighten screw.
This machine is designed to use a 15 watt max mum light bulb.
CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB
CAUTION: Before removing bulb, disconnect power-line plug from electrical supply.
Removing the Bull
With thumb and forefinger lower the light bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew bulb. Press it up into socket and at same time turn bulb over in direction shown to unlock bulb pin.
Replacing the Bulb
Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin entering slot of socket, and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in position. Push bracket back into recess.
REPLACING THE SLIDE PLATE
You will not have any occasion to remove the slide plate. However, if it should accidentally become disengaged from the machine, it is easily replaced.
- Raise presser foot and needle.
- Place slide plate in slideway with the front edge close to, but not covering, the retaining spring (as shown in illustration).
- With a screwdriver, lift each end of the spring into each of the side grooves on the underside of the slide plate.
- Draw the plate gently toward you and fully engage the spring.
- Close slide plate.
performance checklist
Should sewing difficulty be encountered, review the sections of this instruction book that explain the sewing operation you are performing. If the problem still exists, the following hints will help you correct it.
If the machine does not sew, make sure .
- Machine is connected to the electrical supply.
- Power and light switch is on.
- Hand wheel disc is in sewing position. (See page 13.)
If needle bar moves but stitch is not formed, make sure .
- Needle is straight and sharp.
- Needle size is correct for the thread you are using. (See page 11.)
- Machine is correctly threaded.
- Bobbin contains thread.
- Bobbin and bobbin case are correctly inserted in machine.
- Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.
If fabric does not move, make sure . .
- Presser foot is down and that pressure dial is adjusted for the weight and texture of your fabric.
- Stitch length selector is correctly set.
- Feed-cover needle plate has been replaced with the correct needle plate for the stitching you are doing.
- All lint is removed from around the feed.
To avoid breaking of needles, make sure .
- Needle is not bent or burred, and that it is correct for the machine, and proper size for the thread you are using.
- Needle is fully inserted in needle clamp.
- Machine is set for straight stitching at center needle position when you are using the straight-stitch needle plate and foot.
- Twin needle does not strike needle plate when doing twin-needle stitching. (See page 32.)
- Presser-foot shank is securely fastened to presser bar.
- Needle plate is correctly seated and slide plate is fully closed.
- Fabric being guided or supported behind the needle is not being pulled too hard or too fast.
If stitching is irregular, or needle thread breaks, make sure .
- Flexi-Stitch pattern dial is set at O when straight or zig-zag stitching.
- Flexi-Stitch pattern dial is balanced when sewing Flexi-Stitch patterns.
- Machine is correctly threaded
- Thread is even and free from knots
- Needle is straight and sharp and right size for thread.
- Needle-thread tension is not too tight.
- Bobbin case is correctly threaded and properly inserted.
- Threads are correctly placed under presser foot when you start to sew.
- Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.
- Bobbin or bobbin case is not damaged.
Also remember to .
- Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle and take-up lever.
- Raise needle above fabric before making adjustments to stitch width and needle position.
- Use red selector settings for Flex i-Stitch pattern sewing.
- Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to O when making buttonholes.
- Start and finish sewing with take-up lever in its highest position.
- Adjust stitch length, pressure, and thread tension to suit your fabric.
- Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting a sewing job
- Lower presser foot before setting pressure dial.
- Press hand wheel disc for sewing and disengage bobbin winder after winding a bobbin.
- Remove feed-cover needle plate after button sewing and after darning with an embroidery hoop.
- Sew at a moderate speed when using a Flexi-Stitch pattern.
- Clean your machine periodically.
Enjoy Sewing!
If you have any questions, please write to:
Consumer Affairs Department The Singer Company 321 First Street, Elizabeth, N.J. 07207
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SPECIAL ACCESSORIES FOR SPECIAL JOBS (Continued)
Leather-Sewing Needle, Style # 2032 is used for stitching leathers and suedes.
SINGER Oil, available in tube or one-application capsules, is especially prepared for leaving a fine film of lubricant on the precision bearing surfaces of your machine. It ensures freedom of parts movement and protects metal parts from excessive wear.
Lint Brush, with its nylon bristles, is an essential tool for cleaning the thread handling areas which can accumulate lint and fluff.
SINGER Sewing Book ... a complete guide to sewing, with new ideas and new techniques for fashion sewing and home decorating. It has over 1500 color illustrations dramatizing every step of the instructions, and twenty-four pages of exciting color photographs.
Deluxe Monogrammer No. 171278. With the deluxe monogrammer you will have the pleasure of stitching initials 1-1/2 inches high to create monograms that are ideal for adding a personal touch to table linens, towels and wearing apparel. An attractive flower motif can also be made.
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your personal measurement chart
This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. Have someone assist you in taking the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure. The illustrations below show where the tape measure should be placed when taking each measurement.
Inches (cm)
- 1 BUST Fullest part -
- BUST Fullest part slightly higher in back ... WAIST — Around natural
- 2. WAIST Around natural waistline ....................................
- natural waistline (fullest part) ....................................
- of neck to top of arm FRONT BODICE WIDTH From armhole to arm-
- hole 5 inches down from center shoulder ....................................
- inches down from center shoulder ....................................
- From neck base at shoulder to a line even with point of bust ....................................
- FRONT WAIST LENGTH —From neck base at shoulder over fullest part of bust to waistline
- BACK WAIST LENGTH From the prominent bone at base of neck to natural
- 10. SLEEVE WIDTH Around arm at upper edge of under-
- arm seam ....................................
- 12. SLEEVE LENGTH Shoulder to elbow 12. SLEEVE LENGTH — Elbow
- 13. FRONT SKIRT LENGTH— Down center from waist-
- 14. BACK SKIRT LENGTH Down center from waistline to hom
SLACKS MEASUREMENT CHART
- floor at side seam
- 16. SLACKS LENGTH—Waist
- 17. CROTCH SEAM (stand-
- ing) ...... 18. CROTCH SEAM (seated) — Waist to chair at side
- seam .....
NDEX
| Pag | |
|---|---|
| Accessories | |
| Appliqué | 5 |
| Blindstitch Hem Guide | 7,4 |
| Blindstitch Hems | 4 |
| Bobbin | 5, |
| Winding | 1. |
| Bobbin Case | |
| Removing and Replacing | 6 |
| Threading | 1. |
| Buttonhole Foot | 7, 3 |
| Buttonholes | 3 |
| Stitch Density Balance | 3 |
| Buttons | 3. |
| Checklist | 6 |
| Cleaning the Machine | 6 |
| Darning | 5 |
| Darts in Interfacing | 4 |
| Elastic, Attaching | 4 |
| Electrical Connections | 5.10 |
| Speed Controller | 5.10 |
| Embroidering | 6 |
| Fabric, Thread and Needle Table | 1 |
| Face Plate | |
| Removing and Replacing | 62 |
| Fagoting | 53 |
| Fashion Aids | 6 |
| Feed-Cover Needle Plate | 34, 60 |
| Feed | |
| Finishes for Hems and Facings | 4: |
| Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial | 29, 3 |
| Flexi-Stitch Patterns | 29 |
| Adjusting Stitch Balance | 3 |
| Free-Motion Stitching | 60 |
| General Purpose Foot | 6 |
| Guiding and Supporting Fabric | 23, 39 |
| Hand Wheel | 1 |
| Hand Wheel Disc | 5 |
| Hems, Blindstitch | 48 |
| Knit Fabrics, Sewing | 38 |
| Light Bulb | 63 |
| Lubrication | 61 |
| Mending | 57 |
| Needle | 9 |
| Changing | 9 |
| Threading | 15 |
| Twin Needle | 33 |
| Needle Clamp | 3, 9 |
| Needle Position Dial | 26, 30 |
| Needle Plate | 3, 6 |
| Changing | 8 |
| Patchwork Quilting | 52 |
| Personal Measurement Chart | 69 |
| Pin Basting | 22 |
| P | age | |
|---|---|---|
| Power and Light Sy | witch 5, | 10 |
| Presser Foot | 7,8 | |
| Changing | 8 | |
| Presser Foot Lifter | 3 | |
| Pressure Adjustme | nt 3, | 19 |
| Principal Parts | 1.0 | 2 |
| Reverse-Stitch Pus | sh Button4, 18, | 21 |
| Satin Stitching | .28 | |
| Seams, Sewing | 21 | |
| Corded | 46 | |
| Curved | 23 | |
| Finishes | 50 | |
| Ladder | 40 | |
| Lingerie | 41 | |
| Overeagea | 42 | |
| Plain Stretch | 39 | |
| Shell Edging | 52 | |
| Slide Plate | 63 | |
| Snap-in Thread Gu | Ide | 3 |
| Special Fabrics, Se | wing | 44 |
| Special Purpose Fo | 101 | 11 |
| Spool Pip | 12 | |
| Spool Fill | 9 | |
| Stitch Density Bala | nce | 07 |
| (Buttonnoles) | 4 40 00 | 31 |
| Stitch Length Dial | 4, 18, 28, | 31 |
| Straight Stitch Foot | 4, 17, 20, | 17 |
| Straight Stitching | u | 17 |
| Adjusting Select | ors | 18 |
| Stretch Fabrics Sev | wing | 38 |
| Take up Lover | in the second se | 2 |
| Take-up Lever | .+ | 1 |
| For Straight Stite | bing | 20 |
| For Zig-Zag Stite | shing 26.28 | 30 |
| Thread | , ming | 11 |
| Throad Cuttor | 3 | |
| Threading the Mac | hine 12 | 33 |
| Top Stitching | 1110 | 49 |
| Tubular Bed Sewin | a | 53 |
| Twin-Needle Stitch | ning | 32 |
| Winding the Bobbi | n | 12 |
| Zig-Zag Stitching | 25 | |
| Basic Zig-Zag Pa | atterns | 25 |
| Needle Position | 26. | 30 |
| Satin Stitching | 20, | 28 |
| Selecting Stitch | Pattern | 25 |
| Stitch Length | 27. 28. | 31 |
| Stitch Width | 30 | |
| Zipper Foot | 7, | 46 |
| Zippers | 46 |
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