SINGER 814 User Manual
Pi"'
ill
You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new
Styifst^ Zig-Zag Sewing IVIachine by SINGER. We know you are eager to
get started on a sewing project.. > but we urge you to become familiar with
this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the benefit of all
the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that you keep
the following points in mind:
♦ Choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the
wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or
faulty stitching. The
fabric. Thread, and Needle Table on page 11
will help you make a perfect choice.
♦ Make sure that the needle is not bent or blunt. If the needle is
damaged—or improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause
skipped stitches. See page 9 for instructions.
♦ Follow the instructions on page 15 for threading the machine. Note
particularly the directions for threading the tension discs.
♦ Place the thread properly when you insert a wound bobbin. Page 14
tells you how to do this perfectly.
♦ Becom||familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length
(page il), presser-foot pressure (page 19), and thread tension
(page 2||| Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine I
Clean. t||i|nachine regularly, as instructed on page 57. Don't allow
thread |||| to accumulate in the bobbin case area—they can cause
jammmgi
dlexcessive noise.
Mill
CONTENTS
Page
Getting to Know Your SINGER* Sewing Machine
Principal Parts—^And What They Do .............................................................. 2
Accessories—^And When to Use Them........................................................... 6
Getting Ready to Sew ......................................................................................... 10
Preliminary Steps .......................................................................................... 10
Choosing Needle and Thread
Threading Your Sewing Machine.................................................................... 12
Straight Stitching ............................................................................................... 17
Adjusting Selectors......................................................................................... 18
Sewing a Seam ............................................................................................. 21
Zig-Zag Stitching.................................................................................................. 25
Basic Zig-Zag Patterns 25
Flexi-Stitch* Patterns .................................................................................... 29
.......................................................................
...............................................
2
11
Twin-Needle Stitching ......................................................................................... 32
Preparation..................................................................................................... 32
Threading the Needle
Buttons and Buttonholes .................................................................................... 34
Buttons ........................................................................................................... 34
Buttonholes .................................................................................................... 35
Sewing the Professional Way ............................................................................. 38
Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics .................................................................... 38
Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics
Construction Details ...................................................................................... 46
Decorative Touches .
Keeping Up Appearances
Caring For Your Machine ................................................................................... 57
Cleaning the Machine..................................................................................... 57
Removing Bobbin Case, Face Plate and Bulb .............................................. 58
Performance Checklist................................................................................... 60
....................................................................................
..................................................................
...
................................................................................ 51
.............................................................................
33
44
53
Special Accessories for Special Jobs
Your Personal Measurement Chart.................................................................... 65
Index.................................................................................................................... 66
.................
............................................... 62
^ ^^ossure
Oia l
principa! parts
Snap-.inThre^ri
Cui de P os t I Spo o l H ol de r
y Bobbin Win d er
3 Tak e- up
Lev er
4 Presser-'
Lift er
^ T hr ea d
Cutter
___
|\
Han d
Wh ee l
^^^/e^i-Stitcfy
Pat te rn D ial
^ ^ S ew in q
Lig ht
leedle
Pla te
S F ee d
'>0 Sl ide P la te
and what they do
1. Bobbin-Winder Tensiori Disc regulates thread tension for bobbin
winding.
2. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all
purpose setting plus settings for extra-light and extra-heavy pressure,
andfordarning.
3» Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.
4„ Presser-Foot Lifter^ at back of machine, allows you to raise and
lower presser foot. High-lift position allows easy placement of bulky
fabrics.
5. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience.
6= Weedie Clamp holds single and twin needles and is designed to
eliminate the possibility of inserting needle backwards.
7o Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. The feet snap off for quick
removal.
8. lyeedle Plate lifts out for easy removal. Guidelines on right and left
sides extend to slide plate to help you keep seams straight.
B, Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.
10« Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replacement of the bobbin, and
raises and lowers the pin that holds the needle plate in place.
11. Sewing Light illuminatesthesewing area.
12. Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial sets the machine for Flexi-Stitch pattern
sewing and varies the balance of Flexi-Stitch patterns in order to obtain
desired pattern appearance.
Dial must be set in 0 (off) position when notin use.
13. Hand Wheel positions take-up lever and needle. Always turn it
toward you.
14. Bobbin Winder lets you fill the bobbin with thread quickly and easily.
15. Spool Holder with Horizontal Pin holds thread spools of various
sizes. Holder lets thread unwind without tug or drag.
16. Snap-in Thread Guide Post provides smooth flow of thread from
spool holderto tension discs.
PRINCIPAL PARTS (Contined)
17. i\leecl!e-Tlhreacl Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for
your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in
duplicating settings.
18. Weedfe-Thread Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial,
regulate the amount of tension on your needle thread.
19. Pattern Selector Dial lets you select a variety of practical and decor
ative zig-zag and Fiexi-Stitch patterns.
20. Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig-zag stitching and posit
ions needle for straight stitching. Use j setting for straight stitching.
21. Stitch Length Selector and Buttonhole Dial allowsfor a variety of
stitch lengths, including FINE for zig-zag satin stitching. Has special
settings for buttonholing and Flexi-Stitch pattern sewing.
22. Reverse-Stitch Push Button has two separate functions. It lets you
reverse stitching direction and balance buttonhole stitch density.
23. Weedle-Position Dial places needle in either left, center or right
stitching position. Use center position for straight stitching.
17 Needle-Thread
Tension Dial
18 Needle-Thread
Tension Discs
19 Pattern
Selector
Dial
23 Needle-Position
Dial
20 Stitch Width Dial
21 Stitch Length Selector
and Buttonhole Dial
22 Reverse-Stitch
Push Button
24. Hand Wheel Disc engages hand
wheel to sewing mechanism. Dis
engage hand wheel for bobbin wind
ing by pressing @ bobbin symbol on
disc.
supply ... is easily removed for
bobbin winding.
26, Power and Light Switch turns on
the power and the sewing light
simultaneously.
27, Electrical Connections and
Speed Controller are designed for
convenience and safety.
See instructions for connecting machine
and operating machine and controller on
page 10.
26 Power and Light
accessories ... and when to use them
The accessories that come with your Styl/st sewing machine are designed to
help you do many kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. Additional acces
sories, listed on page 62 at the back of this instruction book, are available
for purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.
GENERAL-PURPOSE FOOT
AND NEEDLE PLATE
The general-purpose foot and the general-
purpose needle plate are in place on the
machine. Ideal for all utility sewing, these
fittings can be used for either straight or
zig-zag stitching. Always use them to
gether when alternating between straight
and zig-zag stitching.
General-Purpose Needle Plate
£il.
StraightStitch
Foot
Straight-Stitch Needle Plate
STRAIGHT-STITCH FOOT
AND NEEDLE PLATE
The straight-stitch foot and the straight
stitch needle plate are used when your
fabric or sewing procedure requires close
control.
Especially useful for:
® Precision stitching of curved and
scalloped edges, topstitching, edge
stitching etc.
• Stitching delicate or spongy fabrics,
synthetics, and knits.
FEED-COVER NEEDLE PLATE
Feed-Cover Needle Plate
The feed-cover needle plate replaces the
general-purpose needle plate (or straight
stitch needle plate) when fabric feeding
is not desired. Use it for button sewing
(page 34) and free-motion darning
(page 56).
SPECIAL-PURPOSE FOOT
The special-purpose foot is used with the
general-purpose needle plate for all kinds
of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use it for:
® Zig-zag satin stitching
• Ornamental stitching with Flexi-Stitch
patterns
® Appliqué
• Twin-needle stitching
BUTTONHOLE FOOT
The buttonhole foot is used with the
general-purpose needle plate to make
four-step, bar-tack buttonholes in fabrics
of light and medium weight. For instruc
tions, see page 36.
Special-Purpose Foot
Buttonhole Foot
ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is used to place stitching
close to a raised edge. Thus, it Is as useful
for corded seams and tubular cording as
it is for zipper insertion (page 46). it can
be fitted to either the right or the left side
of the needle and may be used with the
straight-stitch or general-purpose needle
plate.
BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE
The blindstitch hem guide Is used with
the general-purpose foot to position the
hem fold for blindstitch hemming (page
48). To attach, simply loosen presser-foot
screw and slip guide between screw and
presser-foot shank. Position guide so that
it clears both slide plate and presser-foot
toe. Tighten screw.
Zipper Foot
Blindstitch Hem Guide
ACCESSORIES (Continued)
Shank
Foot
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
The presser feet that are supplied with
your machine snap on and off a common
shank. To change thefoot:
1. Raise presser-foot lifter and turn hand
wheel toward you to raise needle to its
highest position.
2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as
far as it will go) and then snap down to
remove the foot.
3. Center the new presser foot under the
shank and lower the presser-foot lifter
so that the shank fits over the presserfoot pin.
4. Press down on presser-foot screw until
foot snaps Into place.
To remove the complete foot (with
shank), as for free-motion darning or
embroidery, see page 56, loosen the
presser-foot screw and remove shank and
foot together.
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES
1. Raise needle to its highest position and
raise the presser-foot lifter (you do not
need to remove the presser foot).
2. Open slide plate with downward finger
pressure. Draw plate toward you, open
ing It all the way to raise the locking pin
that holds the needle plate in place.
3. Place thumb under right side of needle
plate; lift and withdraw plate to the
right.
4. Insert new needle plate under locking
pin and over positioning pin.
5. Close slide plate to lower locking pin
and secure the needle plate.
8
BOBBINS
Transparent drop-in bobbin, # 172336,
shows thread supply at a glance.
NEEDLES
® Style # 2020 needles for all-purpose
sewing.
® Style # 2045 ball-point (yellow band)
needle for sewing knits and stretch
fabrics.
® Style # 2025 twin needle for decor
ative twin-needle stitching.
ilVlPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing
machine has been designed to obtain
best resuits with SiNGER nee dies. You
should follow the recommendations in
this instruction book and on the needie
package for correct style and size of needle
for different types and weights of fabrics.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Transparent
Bobbin
Regular Needle
(Yellow Band) Needle
V V
Twin Needle
Ball-point
The needle clamp is designed so that the
needle can only be inserted with the flat
side of the needle to the back. To change
the needle:
1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,
loosen needle-clamp screw, and re
move needle.
2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the
flat side of the needle to the back;
push it up as far as it will go.
3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.
SPOOL HOLDERS
The spool holders hold spools of various
sizes in position on the horizontal spool
pin. Because the spool does not turn,
thread unwinds without tug or drag.
DETACHABLE SPOOL PIN
The secondary detachable spool pin is
used for twin-needle stitching.
Small and Large
Spool Holders
Detachable
Spool Pin
Power and Light
/Switch
preliminary steps
COMNECTIMG THE MACHINE
Before plugging in your machine, be sure
that the voltage and number of cycles
indicated on the plate under the hand
wheel conform to your electrical power
supply.
Push the machine plug into the receptacle
at the right end of the machine bed. Then
connect the power-line plug to your
electrical outlet.
ON
Power and Light Switch
Speed Controller
OFF
OPERATING MACHINE AND
CONTROLLER
To turn on both machine and sewing
fight, press power and light switch to
ON position (red bar on switch will be
visible). To turn off machine and light,
press switch at red bar to OFF position.
CAUTION: We recommend that you
turn off the power and light switch before
changing needles, presserfeet, and needle
plates and when leaving the machine
unattended. This eliminates the possibility
of starting the machine by accidently
pushing the speed controller.
To run the machine, press the speed
controller. The harder you press, the
faster the machine will sew.
To stop the machine from sewing,
remove pressure from speed controller.
10
choosing needle and thread
The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being
stitched. The table below is a practical guide to needle and thread selection.
Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and
type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE
FABRIC
DELICATE—tulle, chiffon.
fine lace, organza
LIG HTWEIG HT—batiste.
organdy, jersey, voile, taffeta.
crepe, chiffon, velvet, plastic film
MEDIUM WEIGHT—gingham.
percale, pique, linen, chintz.
faille, satin, fine corduroy, velvet.
suitings, deep-pile fabrics, vinyl
MEDIUM HEAVY—gabardine. Heavy-duty
tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings.
drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile 40 to 60 cotton
fabrics Polyester thread
H EAVY—overcoatings.
denim, upholstery fabrics. mercerized cotton
canvas 24 to 40 cotton
Fine polyester, nylon.
and cotton thread 2020
50 mercerized cotton
"A" silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester
50 mercerized cotton
60 cotton
"A" silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester
mercerized cotton
Heavy-duty
Polyester thread
THREAD
Type
STYLE
(15x1)
STYLE
2020
(15x1)
STYLE
2020
(15x1)
STYLE
2020
(15x1)
STYLE
2020
(15x1)
NEEDLES
Size
9
11
14
16
18
ALL WEIGHTS—decorative
straight stitch topstitching
in woven fabrics
KNIT, WOVEN, STRETCH "A" nylon
and ELASTIC FABRICS—
polyester doubleknit, spandex. "A" silk
nylon, tricot, ciré tricot, jersey. Cotton-wrapped
pan né velvet
LEATHER—suede, kidskin. 50 mercerized cotton
capeskin, lambskin, lined
leathers "A" silk
LIGHT and MEDIUM
WEIGHTS—decorative
twin-needle stitching
In woven fabrics
t Use with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.
"D"silkt
(Buttonhole twist)
50 mercerized cotton
polyester
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped
polyester
50 mercerized cotton
STYLE 16
2020 or
(15x1) 18
STYLE 14
2045
Ball-Point
(Yellow Band)
STYLE
2032
(15x2)
STYLE
2025
(twin)
11
14
16
14
11
Spool Holders
threading your
sewing machine
Like all sewing nnachines that produce
what is called a "lockstitch”, your Stylist
sewing machine sews with two threads.
The upper thread comes from the spool
and is threaded through the eye of the
needle. The lower thread comes from the
bobbin, the small transparent spool that
you wind using the machine. It is best to
wind the bobbin before threading the
needle.
THE SPOOL HOLDER
® Remove spool holder from spindle by
sliding it to the left.
for Bobbin Winding
® Place spool of thread on horizontal
spool pin. If spool being used has a
retaining slit, this should be placed
against the spool cushion on the right.
® Select correct spool holder according
to type and diameter of the end of the
spool being used. The diameter of the
end of the spool holder should always
be largerthan that of the spool itself.
* Press spool holder firmly against spool.
THE BOBBfIM THREAD
Winding the Bobbin
® Press hand wheel disc at bobbin
symbol
12
© Open slide plate. Draw plate toward
you to make bobbin accessible.
© Lift out the bobbin and close slide plate
to make sure needle plate is secure
while winding.
® Place spool of thread on spool pin.
Snap thread in the thread guide post
then lead thread around bobbin winder
tension disc, as illustrated above.
® Pass thread, from the inside, through
hole in bobbin and place bobbin on
spindle.
® Push bobbin and spindle to the right
to engage the bobbin winder. Hold
thread end as shown and start the
machine, winding at moderate speed.
® Cut off thread end after a few coils
have been wound on the bobbin.
© When required amount of thread has
been wound (winding will stop when
bobbin is full), stop machine. Cut con
necting thread.
® Push bobbin and spindle toward the
left to disengage bobbin winder. Re
move bobbin.
® Press hand wheel disc for sewing.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Open slide plate. Hold bobbin so that
thread unwinds in direction shown, and
put bobbin in bobbin case.
2. Pull thread into notch, draw it under
tension spring and back into slot.
14
3. Draw about three inches of thread
diagonally across the bobbin.
4. Close slide plate allowing thread to
enter slot between the needle plate and
slide plate.
THE NEEDLE THREAD
Leadlhread
under nqhX
Left
Guide
Threading the Needle
1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever
to its highest position, and raise presser
foot to release the tension discs.
2. Place spool of thread on spool holder
and lead thread through all points as
shown, making sure to:
® Hold thread as illustrated while guiding
thread into tension discs.
® Thread tension discs as illustrated.
® Thread take-up lever from back to front,
guiding thread down over top of lever
and then up into eyelet.
® Thread needle from front to back,
drawing about four inches (10 cms) of
thread through eye of needle.
Allow spring to return to its
normal up position and con
tinue threading the machine
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Now that you have wound the bobbin and
threaded the needle, you will need to raise
the bobbin thread through the needle hole
in the needle plate.
1. Hold needle thread lightly with left
hand and turn hand wheel slowly
toward you so that needle enters hole
in needle plate.
2. Continue turning hand wheel and hold
ing needle thread until needle rises.
Tighten your hold on the needle thread
and bring up bobbin thread in a loop.
16
3. Open the loop with your fingers.
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads
under presser foot, and draw to back of
machine.
. . . You are now ready to sew
® Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial; O
® Pattern Selector: Any setting
® Needle Position; ^
O
® Stitch Width: ■
® Stitch Length: Tosuitfabric
® Straight Stitch Needle Plate or
General Purpose Needle Plate
© Straight Stitch Foot or
General Purpose Foot
Before you move the selectors to set your
sewing machine for straight stitching,
turn the hand wheel toward you until the
needle Is above the needle plate.
SETTING THE MACHINE
® Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to off
position O.
® Move needle position selector to
center X .
© Set stitch width selector on ■ .
CHOOSING ACCESSORIES
Best results will be obtained if you use
the straight-stitch foot and needle plate.
However, the general-purpose foot and
needle plate may also be used.
STARTING TO SEW
® Place needle and bobbin threads under
presser foot and draw to back of
machine.
® Position the needle in the fabric where
stitching should start.
® Lower the presser foot and start the
machine.
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of
fabrics adjust stitch length, pressure and
thread tension as instructed on the
following pages.
For information on straight stretch stitch
ing turn to page 39.
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial Off
L 1 J
Needle Position
Stitch Width
Straight-Stitch Accessories
17
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
adjusting selectors for your fabric
^ The stitch length selector controls the
ADJUSTiWG STITCH LEWGTH
length of stitches. The numbers around
the edge of the selector dial express stitch
length in stitches per inch; the higher the
number, the shorter the stitch. Generally,
shorter stitches are best for lightweight
fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. The
FINE area is used for the adjustment of
zig-zag satin stitching.
Setting Selector
® Turn dial so that the stitch length
desired is positioned under the arrow
head ▼ on the control panel.
® To shorten the stitch, turn the dial
clockwise to a higher number.
© To lengthen the stitch, turn the dial
counterclockwise to a lower number.
For reverse stitching, press the reversestitch push button (located in the center
of the dial) in as far as it will go and hold
in place (the button can be pushed in
while the machine is sewing). Release
pressure on the push button to return to
forward stitching.
Stitch Length Dial
18
(For detailed instructions on adjusting
the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching,
see page 28.)
ADJUSTING PRESSURE
Pressure Dial
To Increase
To Decrease
Adjusting Pressure
Dial
The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the
fabric. Correct pressure is important because it enables the fabric to feed
smoothly and evenly, without being marred. The NORM (normal) setting
is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of
fabrics of different weights and textures. Intermediate notched settings,
above and below NORM (normal), are also provided. When you need extra
control, regulate the setting for heavier or lighter pressure to suit the fabric
being sewn.
When darning without an embroidery hoop, set the dial at the lowest
setting, ^ . See page 55 for instructions.
Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.
© To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward MAX
(maximum).
© turn dial from NORM (normal) toward
® For darning, SQtd\a\ on ^ .
19
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
REGULATING THREAD TENSION
Needle Thread Tension
Correct tension is important because too
much or too little will weaken your seams
or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a
test sample with the fabric and thread you
plan to use and examine it. A perfect
stitch will have the needle and bobbin
threads locked between the two layers of
fabric with no loops on top or bottom and
no puckers.
Needle-Thread Tension
The tension dial regulates the degree of
tension on your needle thread. Set it
according to the type of thread and fabric
you use. The numbers on the dial
eliminate guesswork in duplicating set
tings.
Increase Decrease
If the stitches in your test sample look
loose, increase needle-thread tension. If
the fabric puckers, decrease tension.
® To increase tension, turn dial to
higher number.
• To decrease tension, turn dial
to
lower number.
20
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