SINGER 814 User Manual

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You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new

Styifst^ Zig-Zag Sewing IVIachine by SINGER. We know you are eager to

get started on a sewing project.. > but we urge you to become familiar with this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the benefit of all the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that you keep the following points in mind:

♦ Choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the

wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or faulty stitching. The

fabric. Thread, and Needle Table on page 11

will help you make a perfect choice.

♦ Make sure that the needle is not bent or blunt. If the needle is

damaged—or improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause skipped stitches. See page 9 for instructions.

♦ Follow the instructions on page 15 for threading the machine. Note

particularly the directions for threading the tension discs.

♦ Place the thread properly when you insert a wound bobbin. Page 14

tells you how to do this perfectly.

♦ Becom||familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length

(page il), presser-foot pressure (page 19), and thread tension (page 2||| Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine I

Clean. t||i|nachine regularly, as instructed on page 57. Don't allow

thread |||| to accumulate in the bobbin case area—they can cause

jammmgi

dlexcessive noise.

Mill

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CONTENTS

Page

Getting to Know Your SINGER* Sewing Machine

Principal Parts—^And What They Do .............................................................. 2

Accessories—^And When to Use Them........................................................... 6

Getting Ready to Sew ......................................................................................... 10

Preliminary Steps .......................................................................................... 10

Choosing Needle and Thread

Threading Your Sewing Machine.................................................................... 12

Straight Stitching ............................................................................................... 17

Adjusting Selectors......................................................................................... 18

Sewing a Seam ............................................................................................. 21

Zig-Zag Stitching.................................................................................................. 25

Basic Zig-Zag Patterns 25

Flexi-Stitch* Patterns .................................................................................... 29

.......................................................................

...............................................

Twin-Needle Stitching ......................................................................................... 32

Preparation..................................................................................................... 32

Threading the Needle

Buttons and Buttonholes .................................................................................... 34

Buttons ........................................................................................................... 34

Buttonholes .................................................................................................... 35

Sewing the Professional Way ............................................................................. 38

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics .................................................................... 38

Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics

Construction Details ...................................................................................... 46

Decorative Touches . Keeping Up Appearances

Caring For Your Machine ................................................................................... 57

Cleaning the Machine..................................................................................... 57

Removing Bobbin Case, Face Plate and Bulb .............................................. 58

Performance Checklist................................................................................... 60

....................................................................................

..................................................................

...

................................................................................ 51

.............................................................................

Special Accessories for Special Jobs

Your Personal Measurement Chart.................................................................... 65

Index.................................................................................................................... 66

.................

............................................... 62

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^ ^^ossure

Oia l

principa! parts

Snap-.inThre^ri

Cui de P os t I Spo o l H ol de r

y Bobbin Win d er

3 Tak e- up

Lev er

4 Presser-'

Lift er

^ T hr ea d

Cutter

___

Han d

Wh ee l

^^^/e^i-Stitcfy

Pat te rn D ial

^ ^ S ew in q

Lig ht

leedle

Pla te

S F ee d

'>0 Sl ide P la te

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and what they do

1. Bobbin-Winder Tensiori Disc regulates thread tension for bobbin

winding.

2. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all

purpose setting plus settings for extra-light and extra-heavy pressure, andfordarning.

3» Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread. 4„ Presser-Foot Lifter^ at back of machine, allows you to raise and

lower presser foot. High-lift position allows easy placement of bulky

fabrics.

5. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience. 6= Weedie Clamp holds single and twin needles and is designed to

eliminate the possibility of inserting needle backwards.

7o Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. The feet snap off for quick

removal.

8. lyeedle Plate lifts out for easy removal. Guidelines on right and left

sides extend to slide plate to help you keep seams straight.

B, Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.

10« Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replacement of the bobbin, and

raises and lowers the pin that holds the needle plate in place.

11. Sewing Light illuminatesthesewing area.

12. Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial sets the machine for Flexi-Stitch pattern sewing and varies the balance of Flexi-Stitch patterns in order to obtain

desired pattern appearance.

Dial must be set in 0 (off) position when notin use.

13. Hand Wheel positions take-up lever and needle. Always turn it toward you.

14. Bobbin Winder lets you fill the bobbin with thread quickly and easily.

15. Spool Holder with Horizontal Pin holds thread spools of various sizes. Holder lets thread unwind without tug or drag.

16. Snap-in Thread Guide Post provides smooth flow of thread from

spool holderto tension discs.

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PRINCIPAL PARTS (Contined)

17. i\leecl!e-Tlhreacl Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

18. Weedfe-Thread Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial, regulate the amount of tension on your needle thread.

19. Pattern Selector Dial lets you select a variety of practical and decor ative zig-zag and Fiexi-Stitch patterns.

20. Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig-zag stitching and posit ions needle for straight stitching. Use j setting for straight stitching.

21. Stitch Length Selector and Buttonhole Dial allowsfor a variety of stitch lengths, including FINE for zig-zag satin stitching. Has special settings for buttonholing and Flexi-Stitch pattern sewing.

22. Reverse-Stitch Push Button has two separate functions. It lets you reverse stitching direction and balance buttonhole stitch density.

23. Weedle-Position Dial places needle in either left, center or right stitching position. Use center position for straight stitching.

17 Needle-Thread

Tension Dial

18 Needle-Thread

Tension Discs

19 Pattern

Selector Dial

23 Needle-Position

Dial

20 Stitch Width Dial

21 Stitch Length Selector

and Buttonhole Dial

22 Reverse-Stitch

Push Button

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24. Hand Wheel Disc engages hand

wheel to sewing mechanism. Dis engage hand wheel for bobbin wind ing by pressing @ bobbin symbol on disc.

supply ... is easily removed for bobbin winding.

26, Power and Light Switch turns on

the power and the sewing light simultaneously.

27, Electrical Connections and

Speed Controller are designed for

convenience and safety.

See instructions for connecting machine and operating machine and controller on page 10.

26 Power and Light

Page 8

accessories ... and when to use them

The accessories that come with your Styl/st sewing machine are designed to

help you do many kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. Additional acces sories, listed on page 62 at the back of this instruction book, are available for purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.

GENERAL-PURPOSE FOOT

AND NEEDLE PLATE The general-purpose foot and the general-

purpose needle plate are in place on the machine. Ideal for all utility sewing, these fittings can be used for either straight or zig-zag stitching. Always use them to

gether when alternating between straight

and zig-zag stitching.

General-Purpose Needle Plate

£il.

StraightStitch Foot

Straight-Stitch Needle Plate

STRAIGHT-STITCH FOOT

AND NEEDLE PLATE The straight-stitch foot and the straight

stitch needle plate are used when your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control.

Especially useful for:

® Precision stitching of curved and

scalloped edges, topstitching, edge stitching etc.

• Stitching delicate or spongy fabrics, synthetics, and knits.

FEED-COVER NEEDLE PLATE

Feed-Cover Needle Plate

The feed-cover needle plate replaces the general-purpose needle plate (or straight stitch needle plate) when fabric feeding

is not desired. Use it for button sewing (page 34) and free-motion darning (page 56).

Page 9

SPECIAL-PURPOSE FOOT The special-purpose foot is used with the

general-purpose needle plate for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use it for:

® Zig-zag satin stitching

• Ornamental stitching with Flexi-Stitch patterns

® Appliqué

• Twin-needle stitching

BUTTONHOLE FOOT

The buttonhole foot is used with the general-purpose needle plate to make four-step, bar-tack buttonholes in fabrics of light and medium weight. For instruc tions, see page 36.

Special-Purpose Foot

Buttonhole Foot

ZIPPER FOOT The zipper foot is used to place stitching

close to a raised edge. Thus, it Is as useful for corded seams and tubular cording as

it is for zipper insertion (page 46). it can be fitted to either the right or the left side of the needle and may be used with the straight-stitch or general-purpose needle

plate.

BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE

The blindstitch hem guide Is used with the general-purpose foot to position the hem fold for blindstitch hemming (page

48). To attach, simply loosen presser-foot screw and slip guide between screw and presser-foot shank. Position guide so that

it clears both slide plate and presser-foot toe. Tighten screw.

Zipper Foot

Blindstitch Hem Guide

Page 10

ACCESSORIES (Continued)

Shank

Foot

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

The presser feet that are supplied with your machine snap on and off a common shank. To change thefoot:

1. Raise presser-foot lifter and turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to its

highest position.

2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as it will go) and then snap down to remove the foot.

3. Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so that the shank fits over the presserfoot pin.

4. Press down on presser-foot screw until foot snaps Into place.

To remove the complete foot (with

shank), as for free-motion darning or embroidery, see page 56, loosen the presser-foot screw and remove shank and

foot together.

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES

1. Raise needle to its highest position and

raise the presser-foot lifter (you do not need to remove the presser foot).

2. Open slide plate with downward finger

pressure. Draw plate toward you, open ing It all the way to raise the locking pin

that holds the needle plate in place.

3. Place thumb under right side of needle plate; lift and withdraw plate to the right.

4. Insert new needle plate under locking pin and over positioning pin.

5. Close slide plate to lower locking pin and secure the needle plate.

Page 11

BOBBINS

Transparent drop-in bobbin, # 172336, shows thread supply at a glance.

NEEDLES

® Style # 2020 needles for all-purpose

sewing.

® Style # 2045 ball-point (yellow band)

needle for sewing knits and stretch

fabrics.

® Style # 2025 twin needle for decor

ative twin-needle stitching.

ilVlPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing

machine has been designed to obtain best resuits with SiNGER nee dies. You should follow the recommendations in

this instruction book and on the needie package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabrics.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

Transparent

Bobbin

Regular Needle

(Yellow Band) Needle

V V

Twin Needle

Ball-point

The needle clamp is designed so that the

needle can only be inserted with the flat side of the needle to the back. To change the needle:

1. Raise needle bar to its highest position, loosen needle-clamp screw, and re move needle.

2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the flat side of the needle to the back;

push it up as far as it will go.

3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.

SPOOL HOLDERS

The spool holders hold spools of various

sizes in position on the horizontal spool pin. Because the spool does not turn,

thread unwinds without tug or drag.

DETACHABLE SPOOL PIN

The secondary detachable spool pin is used for twin-needle stitching.

Small and Large

Spool Holders

Detachable

Spool Pin

Page 12

Power and Light

/Switch

preliminary steps

COMNECTIMG THE MACHINE

Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number of cycles indicated on the plate under the hand wheel conform to your electrical power supply. Push the machine plug into the receptacle at the right end of the machine bed. Then connect the power-line plug to your electrical outlet.

Power and Light Switch

Speed Controller

OFF

OPERATING MACHINE AND

CONTROLLER

To turn on both machine and sewing

fight, press power and light switch to

ON position (red bar on switch will be visible). To turn off machine and light, press switch at red bar to OFF position.

CAUTION: We recommend that you

turn off the power and light switch before changing needles, presserfeet, and needle

plates and when leaving the machine

unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidently

pushing the speed controller.

To run the machine, press the speed

controller. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew.

To stop the machine from sewing,

remove pressure from speed controller.

Page 13

choosing needle and thread

The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being

stitched. The table below is a practical guide to needle and thread selection.

Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and

type of thread in both needle and bobbin.

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE

FABRIC

DELICATE—tulle, chiffon. fine lace, organza

LIG HTWEIG HT—batiste. organdy, jersey, voile, taffeta.

crepe, chiffon, velvet, plastic film

MEDIUM WEIGHT—gingham. percale, pique, linen, chintz. faille, satin, fine corduroy, velvet. suitings, deep-pile fabrics, vinyl

MEDIUM HEAVY—gabardine. Heavy-duty

tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings.

drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile 40 to 60 cotton

fabrics Polyester thread

H EAVY—overcoatings.

denim, upholstery fabrics. mercerized cotton

canvas 24 to 40 cotton

Fine polyester, nylon.

and cotton thread 2020

50 mercerized cotton "A" silk

Polyester thread

Cotton-wrapped polyester

50 mercerized cotton 60 cotton

"A" silk Polyester thread

Cotton-wrapped polyester

mercerized cotton

Heavy-duty

Polyester thread

THREAD

Type STYLE

(15x1)

STYLE 2020

(15x1)

STYLE 2020

(15x1)

STYLE 2020 (15x1)

STYLE 2020

(15x1)

NEEDLES

Size

ALL WEIGHTS—decorative straight stitch topstitching

in woven fabrics KNIT, WOVEN, STRETCH "A" nylon

and ELASTIC FABRICS— polyester doubleknit, spandex. "A" silk nylon, tricot, ciré tricot, jersey. Cotton-wrapped pan né velvet

LEATHER—suede, kidskin. 50 mercerized cotton capeskin, lambskin, lined leathers "A" silk

LIGHT and MEDIUM WEIGHTS—decorative twin-needle stitching

In woven fabrics

t Use with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.

"D"silkt

(Buttonhole twist)

50 mercerized cotton

polyester

Polyester thread Cotton-wrapped

polyester

50 mercerized cotton

STYLE 16 2020 or (15x1) 18

STYLE 14 2045 Ball-Point (Yellow Band)

STYLE 2032

(15x2)

STYLE 2025

(twin)

14 16

Page 14

Spool Holders

threading your

sewing machine

Like all sewing nnachines that produce what is called a "lockstitch”, your Stylist sewing machine sews with two threads.

The upper thread comes from the spool

and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the bobbin, the small transparent spool that

you wind using the machine. It is best to wind the bobbin before threading the

needle.

THE SPOOL HOLDER

® Remove spool holder from spindle by

sliding it to the left.

for Bobbin Winding

® Place spool of thread on horizontal

spool pin. If spool being used has a retaining slit, this should be placed against the spool cushion on the right.

® Select correct spool holder according

to type and diameter of the end of the spool being used. The diameter of the end of the spool holder should always be largerthan that of the spool itself.

* Press spool holder firmly against spool.

THE BOBBfIM THREAD

Winding the Bobbin

® Press hand wheel disc at bobbin

symbol

you to make bobbin accessible.

to make sure needle plate is secure while winding.

Page 15

® Place spool of thread on spool pin.

Snap thread in the thread guide post then lead thread around bobbin winder tension disc, as illustrated above.

® Pass thread, from the inside, through

hole in bobbin and place bobbin on spindle.

® Push bobbin and spindle to the right

to engage the bobbin winder. Hold thread end as shown and start the machine, winding at moderate speed.

® Cut off thread end after a few coils

have been wound on the bobbin.

been wound (winding will stop when bobbin is full), stop machine. Cut con necting thread.

® Push bobbin and spindle toward the

left to disengage bobbin winder. Re move bobbin.

® Press hand wheel disc for sewing.

Page 16

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

1. Open slide plate. Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in direction shown, and

put bobbin in bobbin case.

2. Pull thread into notch, draw it under tension spring and back into slot.

3. Draw about three inches of thread diagonally across the bobbin.

4. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter slot between the needle plate and slide plate.

Page 17

THE NEEDLE THREAD

Leadlhread

under nqhX

Left Guide

Threading the Needle

1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever to its highest position, and raise presser

foot to release the tension discs.

2. Place spool of thread on spool holder and lead thread through all points as shown, making sure to:

® Hold thread as illustrated while guiding

thread into tension discs.

® Thread tension discs as illustrated. ® Thread take-up lever from back to front,

guiding thread down over top of lever and then up into eyelet.

® Thread needle from front to back,

drawing about four inches (10 cms) of thread through eye of needle.

Allow spring to return to its normal up position and con tinue threading the machine

Page 18

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD

Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, you will need to raise the bobbin thread through the needle hole

in the needle plate.

1. Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly

toward you so that needle enters hole

in needle plate.

2. Continue turning hand wheel and hold ing needle thread until needle rises.

Tighten your hold on the needle thread

and bring up bobbin thread in a loop.

3. Open the loop with your fingers.

4. Place both needle and bobbin threads under presser foot, and draw to back of

machine.

. . . You are now ready to sew

Page 19

® Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial; O

® Pattern Selector: Any setting ® Needle Position; ^

® Stitch Width: ■ ® Stitch Length: Tosuitfabric

® Straight Stitch Needle Plate or

General Purpose Needle Plate

General Purpose Foot

Before you move the selectors to set your sewing machine for straight stitching, turn the hand wheel toward you until the

needle Is above the needle plate. SETTING THE MACHINE

® Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to off

position O.

® Move needle position selector to

center X .

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Best results will be obtained if you use the straight-stitch foot and needle plate.

However, the general-purpose foot and needle plate may also be used.

STARTING TO SEW

® Place needle and bobbin threads under

presser foot and draw to back of machine.

® Position the needle in the fabric where

stitching should start.

® Lower the presser foot and start the

machine.

To sew perfectly on a wide variety of

fabrics adjust stitch length, pressure and thread tension as instructed on the following pages.

For information on straight stretch stitch ing turn to page 39.

Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial Off

L 1 J

Needle Position

Stitch Width

Straight-Stitch Accessories

Page 20

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

adjusting selectors for your fabric

^ The stitch length selector controls the

ADJUSTiWG STITCH LEWGTH

length of stitches. The numbers around

the edge of the selector dial express stitch

length in stitches per inch; the higher the

number, the shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. The

FINE area is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching.

Setting Selector

® Turn dial so that the stitch length

desired is positioned under the arrow

head ▼ on the control panel.

® To shorten the stitch, turn the dial

clockwise to a higher number.

counterclockwise to a lower number.

For reverse stitching, press the reversestitch push button (located in the center of the dial) in as far as it will go and hold in place (the button can be pushed in while the machine is sewing). Release pressure on the push button to return to

forward stitching.

Stitch Length Dial

(For detailed instructions on adjusting

the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching, see page 28.)

Page 21

ADJUSTING PRESSURE

Pressure Dial

To Increase

To Decrease

Adjusting Pressure

Dial

The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct pressure is important because it enables the fabric to feed smoothly and evenly, without being marred. The NORM (normal) setting

is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics of different weights and textures. Intermediate notched settings, above and below NORM (normal), are also provided. When you need extra control, regulate the setting for heavier or lighter pressure to suit the fabric being sewn.

When darning without an embroidery hoop, set the dial at the lowest setting, ^ . See page 55 for instructions.

Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.

(maximum).

Page 22

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

REGULATING THREAD TENSION

Needle Thread Tension

Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use and examine it. A perfect stitch will have the needle and bobbin

threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and

no puckers.

Needle-Thread Tension

The tension dial regulates the degree of

tension on your needle thread. Set it according to the type of thread and fabric

you use. The numbers on the dial

eliminate guesswork in duplicating set

tings.

Increase Decrease

If the stitches in your test sample look

loose, increase needle-thread tension. If

the fabric puckers, decrease tension.

® To increase tension, turn dial to

higher number.

• To decrease tension, turn dial

lower number.

Page 23

sewing a seam

STARTING A SEAM

1. Set stitch length selector for desired number of stitches per Inch.

2. With presser foot up, align fabric with appropriate seam guideline on needle plate (as described below). Position

needle In fabric about 1 /2 Inch (1.2 cm)

from the back edge.

3. Lower presser foot. Backstitch to the

edge of the fabric for reinforcement by pushing In the reverse-stitch push

button located In the center of the stitch length selector dial. Hold the button until the stitches reach almost

the edge of the fabric and then release

for forward stitching.

KEEPING THE SEAM STRAIGHT

As you stitch, use one of the numbered lines on the needle plate as a guide for keeping the seams straight. Numbers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch from the needle. If you want a 5/8 inch

(1.5 cm) seam, for example, keep the right-hand edge of your fabric on the number 5 guideline.

i" (1.5 cm)

r (1.2cm)

(I.Scm)

' ■■ ■

r (9mm) i" (1.2cm) r (1.5cm) r (1.9cm)

Stitching Line

Using Guidelines

Page 24

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS To turn a square corner 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)

from the, fabric edge, you need not

measure or mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the slide plate.

® Line up your fabric with right or left

guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch seam, slowing speed as you approach corner.

® Stop stitching, with the needle down,

when the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the cornering crosslines on the slide plate.

® Raise presser foot and turn fabric on

needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.

Pivoting at Corner

® Lower the presser foot and stitch in

new direction.

PIN BASTING

Pin basting is a time-saver and can be

used when you sew easy-to-handle

fabric. Use fine pinsand place them:

® On top of the fabric (never on the

underside in contact with the feed).

® Atrightanglestothestitching line. ® Just nipping into the fabric at the

stitching line (never extending under both sides of the presser foot).

Page 25

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING

THE FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in

front of the presser foot. Some fabrics,

however, require support while being stitched. Filmy sheers, panne velvet, and tricots, for example, need to be held taut

In front and back of the presser foot while

being sewn.

For information on sewing knit and

stretch fabrics with zig-zag stitching,

refer to page 38.

CAUTION : Do not pull the fabric while

you are stitching as this may deflect the

needle causing it to break.

CURVED SEAMS

1. Use a short stitch length for elasticity and strength. For example, if you use 12 stitches per inch for straight seams, select 15 to 20 per inch to stitch curved seams in the same fabric.

2. For the greatest accuracy, use the straight-stitch foot and needle plate.

Supporting Fabric

Page 26

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

Stitch to the fabric edge. Backstitch 1/2 inch (1 cm) to reinforce the end of

the seam by pushing in the reverse-stitch

push button and then releasing.

TO REMOVE WORK

1. Turn hand wheel toward you to bring needle to its highest point.

2. Raise presser foot and remove fabric by drawing itto the back and left.

3. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of presser bar.

Page 27

The zig-zag stitches built in to your sewing machine include basic zig-zag patterns and Flexi-Stitch patterns. Basic zig-zag patterns and their selector settings are shown below; information on Flexi-Stitch patterns starts on page 29. You will find instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these patterns in the section called "'Sewing the Profes sional Way" beginning on page 38.

basic zig-zag patterns

Plain Zig-Zag Stitch. Used for buttonholes, button sewing, bar

tacks and appliqué.

Biindstitch. Indispensible for finishing hems and seam edges,

also helpful for zipper insertion. Multi-Stitch, Zig-Zag Stitch. Lets you mend, join and

reinforce without bulk.

SEWING A ZIG-ZAG STITCH PATTERN

® Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to off

setting 0. @ Set pattern selector for stitch desired. ® Adjust stitch length, stitch placement,

stitch width and needle-thread tension

as instructed on following pages.

Set the stitch width selector on ■ before moving the stitch pattern selector.

SETTING STITCH PATTERN

SELECTOR

For Plain Zig-Zag Stitching

Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial Off

For Plain Zig-Zag

For Biindstitch

For Biindstitching

® Move dial to

For Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

® Move dial to ’>1^ .

For Mu Iti-Stitch Zig-Zag

Setting Pattern Selector

Page 28

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)

Adjusting Stitch Width

L 1 J

ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN

Before moving selector, make sure stitch length dial is OFF buttonhole settings and needle is above fabric

To produce a zig-zag stitch pattern, move

the stitch width selector dial from the

straight-stitch setting j to any zig-zag setting to the right. Stitch width is in creased as the dial is moved to the right.

Button Sewing Decorative

Stitching at Narrow

Most used Widths Setting for Single-Needle Work

Adjusting Stitch Placement

ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEiVIENT

Before moving selector, make sure stitch

length dial is OFF buttonhole settings

and needle is above fabric

Most of your basic zig-zag stitching will

be done in center ( ^ ) needle position.

Left ( L ) and right ( J ) settings are used for special stitch placement as in button sewing.

ADJUSTING

TENSION

NEEDLE-THREAD

Basic zig-zag stitching requires less needle-thread tension than straight stitch

ing. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust the tension properly. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric without

causing the fabric to pucker.

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the dial to a lower number.

Page 29

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH Any stitch length setting from 6 to 25

will give you an open zig-zag stitch of the basic zig-zag stitch pattern you select. The lower the number, the more open, or farther apart, your stitches will be. The

FINE stitch area, between 0 and 25 on the dial is used for adjusting zig-zag satin stitching (see next page for specific in structions).

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND CHOOSING

ACCESSORIES Turn to page 19 under "Straight Stitching" for instructions on

adjusting pressure.

For information on choosing accessories refer to pages 6 and 7 and

to detailed instructions for sewing with zig-zag stitch patterns

included in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way" that

starts on page 38.

General-Purpose

Needle Plate

General-Purpose

Foot

Special-Purpose

Foot

Page 30

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)

satin stitching

Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced

zig-zag stitches that form a smooth, satin

like surface, is useful for both practical and

decorative work. When you wish to produce a satin stitch,

for appliqué or bar tacks, for example,

make a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing

to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp lawn or organdy is suitable for this purpose.

ACCESSORIES AND SELECTOR SETTINGS

® F¡exi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O

Adjusting Stitch Length

Incorrect

Adjusting Thread Tension

Correct

® Pattern Selector: §

® Needle Position:

Stitch Width:

® Stitch Length: FINE © General Purpose Needle Plate ® Special Purpose Foot © Pressure: NORM

Adjusting Stitch Length

1. Turn stitch length selector dial to 25 (the beginning of FINEarea).

2. Run the machine at a slow speed.

3. Gradually turn the stitch length dial clockwise until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth surface.

Adjusting Thread Tension

Satin stitching requires less tension than straight stitching or open zig-zag stitch ing. Furthermore, the wider the stitch, the

lighter the tension on the thread must be.

Notice the stitching on your sample. If the fabric is puckered, lower the needlethread tension by turning the tension dial to a lower number.

Page 31

Flexi-Stiîch patterns

With your Stylist sewing machine you can sew four Flexi-Stitch patterns.

Instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these patterns begin

on page 38.

Flexi-Stitch PATTERNS

Ric-Rac Stitch. An open re-

, ^ Feather Stitch. Ideal for

inforced zig-zag stitch for

heavy-duty stretch sewing ^

and decorative work.

Slant Overedge Stitch.

Lets you seam and overedge

in one operation.

To Sew a Flexi-Stitch Pattern

Use Red Selector Settings

9 SeXFiexi-Stitch pattern dial on red I .

® Set pattern selector for desired stitch. © Set Stitch length dial on red « .

® Adjust stitch placement, stitch width,

thread tension, and stitch balance as instructed on following pages.

fagoting, embroidering and quilting.

Straight Stretch Stitch. A triple straight stitch, indis pensable for seaming knit, stretch and elasticized fabric.

Fiexi-Stitch Pattern Dial <: \

For Ric-Rac Stitch

® Sew at moderate speed.

Setting Stitch Pattern Selector

Set the stitch width selector on \ before moving the stitch pattern selector.

For ric-rac stitch

For slant overedge stitch

9 M ove pattern selector to .

For feather stitch

® Move pattern selector to .

For straight stretch stitch

® Any pattern selector setting at stitch

width i .

For Slant Overedge Stitch

For Feather Stitch

lORl

Straight Stretch Stitch

(At Stitch Width i )

Setting Pattern Selector

Page 32

FLEXI-STITCH PATTERNS (Continued)

Adjusting Width of Design

ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN To produce a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the

stitch width selector must be moved from the straight-stitch setting i to a setting from ^ to ^. Stitch width is increased as the dial is moved to the right. On setting i all width is removed from

Flexi-Stitch' patterns and the straight

stretch stitch is produced.

Only

Adjusting Stitch Placement

Setting

Only

ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT

Fiexi-Stitch patterns can be sewn in

either ¿^(left), X (center) or J (right)

needle positions. Center needle position

X is recommended.

ADJUSTING

NEEDLE-THREAD

TENSION Some Fiexi-Stitch patterns require more

needle-thread tension than others. Make a test sample with the fabric, thread and presser foot you plan to use so that you can adjust tension to suit the stitch you have chosen.

For your test sample, set the tension dial

on 3 or 4. Notice the stitching; if the fabric

puckers, decrease tension by turning the

dial to a lower number. Sew at moderate speed.

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

Before moving needle position and stitch

width selectors make sure needle is above

fabric and the stitch length dial is OFF

buttonhole settings.

Page 33

SETTING STITCH LENGTH DIAL

When you use a Flexi-Stitch pattern, stitch length is controlled with a single setting of the stitch length dial. No further

adjustment should be made.

To set turn dial until red bar ■ is centered

under the arrowhead T on the control panel.

NOTE: Stitching cannot be reversed when

the Flexi-Stitch pattern dial is on red

Fiexi-Stitch setting.

Red Bar

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE

You may need to adjust the Fiexi-Stitch

pattern dial when using a Fiexi-Stitch pattern in order to achieve the correct pattern appearance. Before you move the

Fiexi-Stitch pattern dial from its neutral

position (red bar | centered under W ). make a test sample. If adjustment is required, stitch slowly and move the control dial as you sew.

® Turn the dial to the right to bring

stitches of the pattern together.

• Turn the dial to the left to separate stitches of the pattern.

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Stitch Length Dial

Incorrect Correct

Turn Dial to Right to Bring

Stitches Together

Incorrect

Correct

Turn to page 19 under "StraightStitching" for instructions on adjusting pressure.

For information on choosing accessories

refer to detailed instructions for sewing with Fiexi-Stitch patterns included in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way", which starts on page 38.

Turn Dial to Left to

Separate Stitches

Adjusting Stitch Balance

Page 34

Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial Off

By using a twin needle, you can produce

two parallel, closely spaced, decorative

lines of stitching simultaneously. You can

use either one or two colors of thread, and you can choose either a straight-stitch, zig-zag stitch, blindstitch, or multi-stitch zig-zag setting.

preparation

SETTIWG THE MACHIfyE

Center Only

Straight Stitching

Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dia! Off

Maximum Stitch Width

Straight Stitching

® Needle Position: ^ only

Zig-Zag Stitching

® Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O © Pattern Selector: § or ^ or '*

® Stitch Length: Optional © General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot (open stitching) ® Special Purpose Foot (zig-zag

satin stitching)

Twin-needle stitching can also be pro

duced using a Flexi-Stitch paiierru Select

one of the patterns niustrated on page 29. Center ( X ) needle position seiting

¡rifh

be used. Stitcf

must not exceed

settings hiustrated at left.

Page 35

Use SINGER*twin needle. Style 2025 (size 14).

INSERTING THE TWIN NEEDLE

Before inserting the twin needle, make

sure you are using the general-purpose

needle plate and that the needle position dial is set at X ^ ^nd the stitch width does not exceed the settings shown on

page 32. To insert the twin needle, simply raise

needle to its highest point and loosen the

needle-clamp screw. Remove the single

needle and Insert the twin needle in its place. Tighten needle-clamp screw securely.

threading for twin-needle stitching

For best results, use No. 50 mercerized or synthetic thread. Thread the

machine as for single-needle stitching, except pass thread between center and back tension discs, and through right eye of needle. Attach secondary spool pin in hole on top cover. Pass thread from second spool through guide

(by-passing the snap-in thread guide post) as illustrated, then between center and front tension discs. Thread through remaining points, making certain to omit the thread guide above the needle and pass thread through

left eye of needle.

Page 36

ATTACHING A BUTTON

buttons

® F/exi-Stitch Pattern D\a\: O ® Pattern Selector: §

@ Feed Cover Needle Plate ® General Purpose or Special Purpose Foot

Flat buttons can be sewn on quickly and easily using the plain zig-zag stitch pattern. The space between the holes in the button determines stitch width set tings. For buttons vyith standard hole spacing, use settings i and ^ as shown.

For buttons .with unusual hole spacing, use setting ! and increase or decrease the width ( g ) as necessary.

Attach feed-cover needle plate (see page

8), and turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to O.

1. Set stitch width at • and needle

position at L (leit). Position button

under foot and lower needle into center of left hole by turning hand wheel to ward you. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of

button and is just above the foot.

2. Set stitch width at medium-wide zig zag ( I) setting. Check stitch width by turning hand wheel slowly toward you; the needle should enter the right hole of the button. Take six or more zig-zag

stitches to attach button. End on left

side.

3. To fasten stitching, return to stitch width j and take threeorfourstitches.

Replace feed-cover needle plate with the

general-purpose needle plate when work

is completed.

NOTE: For best results, and when using buttons less than one inch (2.5 cm) in diameter, the Button Sewing Foot is recommended (see page 62).

Page 37

buttonholes

BUTTONHOLE POSITION

Accurate guidelines are essential to keep

buttonholes a uniform distance from faced edge of garment, evenly spaced, and on grain of fabric. For center closures,

place guidelines as follows:

1. Mark center line of garment as in dicated on your pattern. This guideline can be hand basted and should follow a lengthwise fabric thread.

2. Mark a position guideline for each buttonhole.

® Horizontal buttonholes are placed to

extend 1 /8 Inch (3 mm) beyond center-

line basting of garment. Horizontal

guidelines for buttonholes should

follow a crosswise thread of fabric and if basted, be longer than finished length of buttonhole. Determine length of buttonhole (as described below) and mark ends of each buttonholevertically.

Horizontal Placement

on Crosswise Grain

Vertical Placement on

Lengthwise Grain

center-line basting of garment is in

center of buttonholes. Determine buttonhole length and mark ends of each buttonhole horizontally across center line and use center-line basting as a buttonhole guide when stitching.

BUTTONHOLE LENGTH

First, decide how long button opening must be. Then, add 1/16 inch (2 mm) to measurement for each bar tack (closing

stitches at each end of buttonhole). To find length of button opening, cut a slit In a scrap of fabric the diameter of button you intend to use. Increase length of opening until button slips through easily.

Button Opening

Length of

Button

Opening

_L.

Buttonhole

Length Guide

Markings

Button Opening-

Buttonhole Stitching

Page 38

BUTTONHOLES (Continued)

FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLES

® /^/ex/-5i/Yc/7 Pattern Dial: O

Buttonhole Foot

Starting Position

® Pattern Selector: g ® General Purpose Needle Plate

® Buttonhole Foot ® Stitch-Density Balance: Neutral

The four dial settings for buttonholing are

located on the stitch length selector dial.

Raise the needle above the fabric before turning the buttonhole dial.

As you turn the dial for each step, your

machine is set for correct needle position, stitch width, and stitch length, as well as stitching direction for that step. You need

not turn fabric during buttonholing.

Always make a test buttonhole on a

sample of your fabric. Be sure to duplicate

thickness of garment and include inter facing. if the two sides of the buttonhole sample are of unequal density, adjust balance as instructed on page 37.

PROCEDURE

Place work under buttonhole foot, align

center marking of buttonhole with center

line on foot, and align end marking of

buttonhole with horizontal line on foot.

Do not lower the needle.

Step 1 : Side Stitching Turn buttonhole dial clockwise to step 1

(aligning it with arrowhead above dial). Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of buttonhole (point B). End marking should be aligned

with horizontal line on foot.

Step 2: Bar Tack

Raise needle above fabric by turning hand wheel toward you.

Turn buttonhole dial counterciockwise to step 2. Take four or six stitches (point C).

Page 39

Step 3: Side Stitching

Raise the needle above the fabric.

Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise to step 3. Stitch to within a few stitches of the end of the buttonhole (point D).

Step 4: Bar Tack

Raise the needle above the fabric.

Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise to

step 4. Take four or six stitches (point E).

For a heavier buttonhole, stitch around the

buttonhole twice. When stitching the second time, follow the same procedure as for stitching once around. It is not

necessary to reposition your garment.

Remove the work, draw threads to the

underside, tie, and trim. Place a pin across cutting space at each end of buttonhole to

protect bar tack stitching. Then, using a

pair of small, sharp scissors, cut button opening. Insert blade in center of button

hole cutting space and cut from this point

in either direction.

BALANCING THE TWO LINES

OF STITCHING

On some kinds of fabrics, there may be a

difference in the density of the stitches on the right and left sides of the buttonhole. This is easily adjusted by turning the push

button to balance the stitching. A very slight turn will produce a noticeable change.

® Begin with the stitch-density balance

line in a neutral position (aligned with arrowhead above dial).

® Turn the push button to the left to

increase the density of the stitches on

the left and decrease on the right.

® Turn the push button to the right to

increase the density of the stitches on the right and decrease on the left.

When buttonholing is completed, bring

stitch-density balance line back to Its

neutral position, if it has been altered.

¡!¡ \ \\ ' \

I V \ w v

li:

Incorrect Correct

Stitch Balance

Arrowhead

Stitch-Density

Balance Line

in Neutral Position

Push Button

Stitch Balance Control

Page 40

sewing knit and stretch fabric

When you sew stretch fabric, doubleknit, tricot and jersey, choose one of the stitch patterns that sew stretch into the seam. A wide variety of different stitches are available so you can choose just the right one for your fabric and sewing job. The table below will help you make the right selection.

Remember to use a SINGER ball-point needle (Style # 2045) on the

machine when you attach elastic or sew a knit or stretch fabric.

STRETCH STITCH CHART

Stitch

Straight Stretch Stitch

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

Ric-Rac Stitch

Blindstitch

Where to Use

Plain seams that s-t-r-e-t-c-h (press-open or closed construction) — Crotch seaming — Sleeve and gusset Insertion — Flexible topstitching — Swim and ski suit construction — Attaching patch pockets— Repairing and reinforcing seams.

Attaching elastic and stretch lace — Lingerie and swimsuit construction — Girdle seams — Seam finishes — Casings and waistband finishes.

All-purpose stretch sewing — Lingerie seams — Attaching stay tapes — Seam finishing — Edge finishing — Attaching stretch lace.

Heavy-duty, all-purpose stretch sewing Reversible topstitch applications.

Flexible blindstitch hemming — Overcast seam

finishing — Shell hems in lingerie — Ladder seams — Blindstitch zipper insertion.

Feather Stitch

Slant Overedge Stitch

Swimsuit seams — Attaching stretch Lingerie and girdle seams.

Overedge seams that stretch in sportswear, knitwear, slacks, and bathing suits.

lace

Page 41

PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS

® f/ex/-Si/ic/7 Pattern Dial: Red |

® Pattern Selector: Any setting @ Needle Position:

® Stitch Width: | ® Stitch Length Dial: Red «

® General Purpose Needle Plate

® General Purpose Foot ® Speed: Moderate

Straight Stretch Stitching

When you use the straight stretch stitch to seam knit stretch, and elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and strength are built in as the seam is being sewn. Because it is equally

useful for closed or press-open seam construction and will not break thread under stress, the straight stretch stitch is also good for seams that receive an unusual amount of strain when worn. For example: crotch seaming, sleeve Insertion, and construction seams in sportswear and bathing suits.

Procedure

1. Make a test sample to determine

3. Press seam as when using the

thread tension and stitch balance.

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING

FABRIC

Most fabrics of stretch or knit

construction need only to be guided

CAUTION: Do not puH the fabric

while you are stitching as this may

deflect the needle causing it to

break.

in front of the presser foot when you

use one of the stretch stitches.

Simply increase presser bar pressure

and let the machine move the fabric to make the stitches that give

s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam.

Some fabrics, however, require support while being stitched.

Be sure to insert a ball-point (yellow band) needle In machine

if you are stitching a synthetic knit fabric, and increase presser bar pressure if necessary.

2. Stitch and guide fabric as you do for plain seams stitched with the regular straight stitch, letting the

machine make the back-

and-forth stitches that give

s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. If

fabric has an unusual amount of elasticity, it should be stitched under tension as Instructed below under "Guiding and Supporting

Fabric." regular straight stitch.

® For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet

and similar synthetic knits, apply

gentle tension by holding fabric

taut in front and back of the presser foot as you sew.

Page 42

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC (Continued)

ATTACHING ELASTIC

Elastic will remain stretchable when it is attached with the multi-stitch zig-zag. The flexible joining produced by this stitch allows elastic banding to be stitched under, over, or between fabric

layers, making it particularly useful in the

construction of lingerie and swimsuits.

• Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O ® Pattern Selector:

Attaching Elastic with

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Blindstitching Ladder Seams

® Needle Position: ® Stitch Width: s

® Stitch Length: About20 © General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot

(maximum)

LADDER SEAMS

A ladder seam made with blindstitching is both functional and decorative. Partic ularly appropriate for knit and stretch

fabrics, the blindstitch provides stretch able, decorative construction seams and edge finishes for necklines, pockets and collars in sportswear and swimwear.

® Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O ® Pattern Selector: 2

Opening Seam to Form

Ladder Effect

Stitch Width:

@ Stitch Length: 10to 15 ® Thread Tension: Light ® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot

(maximum)

After stitching, open seam by pulling fabric back on opposite sides of seam to

produce ladder effect. Press seam allow ances of construction seams to one side. Seam allowances of enclosed seams are pressed together in the usual way after

seam has been opened.

Page 43

LINGERIE SEAMS

To make seams in lingerie durable and flexible, use a combination of straight and zig-zag stitching. Make a test sample to

help you decide which of the following methods is most appropriate for your fabric and garment. Method # 1 is particularly suitable for 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) bias seams in woven fabric and Method #2 is best for seams in nylon tricot.

Method # 1

Fora 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam:

® Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch

width at i ) on wrong side of fabric.

® Press both seam allowances in thesame

direction

® From the right side, topstitch with

narrow zig-zag stitching, letting needle alternately enter seamline and seam

thickness.

For a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) Seam

Method # 2

Fora narrow seam:

® Cut the fabric for a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)

seam allowance.

@ Straight-stitch seamline on wrong side

of fabric, using a regular or stretch stitch.

® Place a line of medium-width, open

zig-zag stitching close to the straight stitching. (Stitch width medium to

medium-wide; stitch length 20.)

® Trim away excess fabric close to

stitching to produce a narrow seam edge.

For a Narrow Seam

Page 44

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRICS (Continued)

OVEREDGED SEAMS

Seams in knit and stretch fabric can be joined and finished in one operation with the slant overedge stretch stitch. Two different methods may be used. Method # 1 (overedging) is recommended for firm fabrics in garments where a 1/4 inch

(6 mm) seam allowance is adequate. Method # 2 (mock overedging) is most

Trimming Seam Edges

appropriate for bulky knits and fabrics that have a tendency to curl or fray and should be used where a wider seam allowance is needed. Make a test sample to help you decide which method is best for your fabric and garment. Be sure to

duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test.

Method #1 — Overedging

Remember to use a ball-point (yellow band). Style 2045, Size 14 needle in your machine if you are sewing a synthetic knit.

® Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red |

® Pattern Selector: §

® Needle Position:

Stitch Width:

® Stitch Length Dial: Red h ® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot © Speed: Moderate

(maximum)

Method #1 — Overedging

1. Cut and fit the garment allowing for a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance. Baste seamline.

2. Trim seam edges evenly to a scant 1 /4 inch (6 mm) from seamline bast ing.

3. Place trimmed seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seamline and the zig-zag stitches fall over the seam edge.

Page 45

IVieihoci#2 — fVloclk Overedging

When it is not practical to overedge a seam because of the construction of the garment or the fabric, a mock overedge finish can be applied. This finish is appropriate for bulky knits, fine tricots, and fabrics that curl or fray.

1. Make a test sample before begin ning garment construction to test machine adjustments. Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment

seam in your test, and use a ball

FINISHES FOR HEMS AND

FACINGS

point (yellow band) needle if you are sewing a synthetic knit fabric.

2. Cut and fit the garment allowing for a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance. Baste seamline.

3. Place seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the seamline basting.

4. Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric to produce a narrow seam edge. When the

seam supports the garment, omit

the trimming step.

® Pattern Selector: -T or ^

® Needle Position:

@ General Purpose Foot

Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fabrics will be less apt to press through and mark when given a flat edge finish.

Edge finishing with the multi-stitch zig-zag or blindstitch, eliminates the bulk of turned-in edges and retains fabric flexibility.

1. Make a test sample.

2. Place stitching close to hem or facing

edge.

3. Press after stitching and trim away

excess fabric close to the stitching line if necessary

Applying Facing Finish

Page 46

hints on sewing special fabrics

LEATHER-LOOK VlNYLf

® Use masking tape or zipper adhesive

tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching.

® Stitch with a slightly longer-than-

normal stitch. A short stitch may cut the

fabric.

@ Sew with a steady, even pace and stitch

accurately. Seams cannot be ripped out without leaving needle marks in the fabric.

® The shiny side of some vinyls tends to

stick to metal surfaces. Use a strip of tissue paper between the fabric and

metal machine surfaces to prevent this.

® Topstitching holds seams and garment

edges smooth and flat and adds a

decorative note.

® Reinforce button and buttonhole areas

with Interfacing. Bound buttonholes are the best choice for vinyls with knit

Across the Point

backing.

® For sharp points on collars and lapels,

take one or two stitches diagonally

across the point to allow enough space

to smoothly enclose the seam edge.

CIRÉ (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot)!

® Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to

hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching.

® Stitch accurately; seams cannot be ripped out because needle marks

remain in thefabric.

® Sew seams under light tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and

back of needle.

® Stitch ciré taffeta with a fairly long stitch and use an enclosed edge finish

for seams and hems.

needle.

® Machine-worked buttonholes (as well as bound buttonholes) can be

made in ciré fabric. Always use an interfacing and make sure the close zig-zag stitches do not cut the fabric.

tThe Even Feed Foot described on page 62 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

Page 47

DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur)t

® Pin, raiherthan baste, seams. Place pins

at close intervals at right angles to the seamline. Pins with colored heads are

easytoseeand remove. ® Sew in direction of nap. ® Stitch with a fairly long stitch and use

cotton-wrapped synthetic thread in a

size 14 or 16 Style # 2020 needle. © As seam is stitched, smooth pile away

from seam allowance with a darning

needle or upholstery pin.

(1.5 cm) seam allowance, use small hand scissors to shear pile from entire

seam allowance to reduce bulk. © Stitch a 1/4 inch (6 mm) pre-shrunk

tape into neckline and shoulder seams

for stability and reinforcement or stitch

with the straight stretch stitch.

® Leather and leather-look fabrics com

plement fur fabrics; use them for bound buttonholes and easy button loops.

finished with a 3 inch (8 cm) fabric facing or grosgrain ribbon.

® Slash through the center fold of darts

and finger-press open or stitch with a

narrow zig-zag stitch. Trim away excess

fabric after stitching.

Deep-Pife Fabrics

VELVET AND VELVETEENf

silk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet.

® Always stitch in the direction of the nap.

® For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch under

light tension (see page 20). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch.

® When inserting a zipper, use the blindstitch for an almost invisible finish

(see page 47).

® To sew panne velvet, use a ball-point needle and a shorter-than-normal

stitch length.

fThe Even Feed Foot described on page 62 is designed to aid in sewing thisfabric.

Page 48

construction details

ZIPPERS

At the notions counter in your Singer Sewing Center, you will find many differ ent kinds of zippers, one of which will be

just right for whatever you want to sew.

The zipper package will contain easy-tofollow instructions for inserting the zipper. And, with the zipper foot, you will find it easy to form an even line of stitching close to the zipper.

® F/exi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O ® Pattern Selector: Any setting

® Needle Position: ^

® Stitch Width: !

___

Zipper Foot

to Left of Needle

Making Welting for a

Corded Seam

Position

Block

Zipper Foot

to Right of Needle

® General Purpose Needle Plate or

Straight Stitch Needle Plate

® Zipper Foot

Attaching the Zipper Foot When the zipper is to the right of the

needle;

® Move position block on zipper foot to

left, to allow shank to enter right side of

foot, so that needle will enter right

notch in foot.

When the zipper isto the/e/iof the needle:

® Move position block on zipper foot to

right, to allow shank to enter left side of

foot, so that needle will enter left notch

in foot.

(The zipper foot is snapped onto shank as

instructed on page 8.) CORDED SEAMS

The corded seam is a professional treat

ment for slipcovers, children's clothes, blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the welting first (or buy it ready-made at a notions counter), then stitch it into the seam. For both steps, use the zipper foot to place the stitching close to the cord.

Page 49

BLINDSTITCH ZIPPER INSERTIOM

® f/ex/-5i/ic/7 Pattern Dial: O

® Pattern Selector: ^

® Needle Position: ^

® Stitch Width: ^ ® Stitch Length: 12

Blindstitching, used instead of straight stitching for the final step in zipper inser tion, gives a fine finish that is almost in visible. Ideal for knits, napped fabrics, and sheers.

1. Allow for a 7/8 inch (2.2 cm) seam allowance in the zipper area when you cut the garment.

2. Insert zipper in the usual way up to the final step; then, turn garment right side out and spread flat with zipperface up.

3. Work from the right side and pin zipper tape into position.

4. Baste a guideline for blindstitching alongside zipper, about 3/8 inch (1 cm) from garment seam. Make sure basting

stitches go through all fabric layers and zippertape. Remove pins.

5. Adjust zipper foot to right side of needle.

6. Turn garment wrong side out. Place lower end of zipper tape over feed and

turn front section of garment back to

line of basting, creating a soft fold to

the left of the needle.

7. Set stitch width selector and position work so that the straight stitches will go through the seam allowance and zipper tape, and the sideward stitches catch a few threads of the fold.

8. Lower zipper foot and stitch slowly. After stitching, remove basting and

press lightly.

Final Step of Blindstitch

Zipper Insertion

Completed Blindstitch

Zipper Insertion

Page 50

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS (Continued)

BLINDSTITCH HEIVIS

® Ffexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O ® Pattern Selector: ^

® Needle Position: ^ or ^ © Stitch Width: Tosuitfabric

® Stitch Length: 10to20 ® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot

® Blindstitch Hem Guide

Blindstitching provides a durable hem

finish that can be used on a variety of

light and medium weight fabrics. It is best suited to straight hems. Taped, bound, turned, or unfinished hem edges can be blindstitched with equal ease. Blindstitching takes a little practice, however, so make a test sample first.

Bfindstitching Hem

1. Attach blindstitch hem guide as in

structed on page 7.

2. Mark, turn, and press hem in the usual way. (You may want to baste the turned hem to fold it in place. If so, be sure to place the basting at least 1/2

inch (1.2 cm) from hem edge.)

3. With the work v\/rong side up, turn the

hem under, creating a soft fold about 1 /4 inch (6 mm) from hem edge. Press lightly.

4. Position the hem under the foot with

the soft fold resting against wall of guide. Make sure flange of guide is

between the soft fold and top of hem.

5. Lower the presserfoot and stitch so that

the straight stitches fall on the hem

edge and the sideward stitches pierce the soft fold. While stitching, guide hem edge in a straight line and feed the

soft fold evenly against the wail of the

hem guide.

Blindstitch Hem Completed

Page 51

TOPSTITCHtiSlG

A practical, simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges, pockets, seams, etc.

For a tailored look, use lines of regular straight stitching; use the straight stitch foot and sew them with buttonhole twist for added emphasis. For decorative interest, use a decorative zig-zag or

Flexi-Stitch pattern. To add firmness to

hems and seams in knit and stretch garments, topstitch with the straight stretch stitch.

DARTS m INTERFACING

Topstitching with Feather Stitch

Step 1

® F/exi-Stitch Pattern D\a\: O ® Pattern Selector: or §

® Needle Position: 5

® Stitch Width: ® Stitch Length: 20 or to suitfabric

@ General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot

(maximum)

With zig-zag stitching, interfacings can be shaped without bulk.

1. Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching line.

2. Bring raw edges together and pin or

baste in place over a muslin stay.

3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends of

dart for reinforcement.

M \4>

Step 2

Step 3

Steps in Making a

Dart in Interfacing

Page 52

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS (Continued)

SEAMS m FABRICS THAT RAVEL

® F/exI-Stitch Pattern D\a\: O

® Pattern Selector: g or or ^

® Needle Position: ^

® Stitch Width: ^ or ^ ® Stitch Length: 8to 20, depending on

choice of stitch and fabric

® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot

Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel.

Trimming Seam Edges

1. Make a test sample first to determine the stitch pattern that best suits your fabric.

2. Adjust stitch length and stitch width to suit fabric. Choose the settings that will give you the most ''operF' stitch

that will secure the fabric edges;

avoid harsh, over-stitched edges.

3. Trim the seam edges evenly.

Place stitching near the edge of the

seam allowance or over the raw edge

as illustrated.

4. If stitching is placed near the edge of

the seam allowance, trim away the

excess fabric after stitching.

Overedged Seam Finish

Page 53

decorative touches

APPLIQUÉ

Appliqué adds beauîy and interest to clothing and household linens. You

can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture combine equally well.

A closely spaced zig-zag stitch is most commonly used in appliqué work,

but decorative stitch patterns may also be used effectively. Although you

may vary stitch width to accomodate fabric weave or texture, never allow the stitch to be too wide. When appliquéing, make a test sample to help you decide which of the following methods is most appropriate for your fabric and design.

Preparation

® Baste appliqué design to fabric.

general-purpose needle plate).

¡Vlethocl #1 — Trimming after

Stitching

1. Set machine for desired appliqué stitch and set stitch width. Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch length dial.

2. Outline the entire design with appliqué stitching.

3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of the stitching with embroidery scissors.

iVlethod #2 — Stitching after

Trimming

1. Trim outside fabric edges close to straight stitch outline of design.

2. Set machine for plain zig-zag stitching and set stitch width. Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch

length dial.

3. Overedge the design with zig-zag satin stitching. This step will produce a

smooth, lustrous finish that requires no

additional trimming.

IVlethod 1

Trimming after Stitching

IVlethod 2

Stitching after Trimming

Page 54

DECORATIVE TOUCHES (Continued)

Shell Edging with

the Blindstitch

SHELL EDGING

® F/ex/-Si/Yc/7 Pattern Dial: O ® Pattern Selector: ^

® Needle Position: ^ ® Stitch Width: ^ ^

® Stitch Length: 12to 25 ® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot

On soft, fine fabrics such as tricot, voile and crepe, shell edging makes an attrac

tive finish for narrow hems or bias folds in

blouses, slips, and petticoats.

Fagoting a Seam

FAGOTING

@ f/ex/-St/tc/7 Pattern Dial: Red |

® Pattern Selector ^ ® Needle Position: ^ ® Stitch Width: ^

® Stitch Length: Red № @ General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot ® Speed: Moderate

The art of joining two pieces of fabric with

an open, lacy decorative stitch is called fagoting. You can create this attractive trimming with the feather stitch. Use it for decorative stretch seams in bathing suits or for joining together narrow strips of fabric to make an entire garment section.

Patchwork Quilting with

the Feather Stitch

PATCHWORK QUILTING

Patchwork for quilts and wearing apparel, formerly put together with hand stitching, can be quickly "pieced" and decorated at the same time by using the feather stitch. Joinings are both flexible and durable when this Flexi-Stitch pattern is used.

Page 55

keeping up appearances

MENDING Many zig-zag and Flexi-Stitch patterns

are just as useful for nnending as they are for creative sewing. A few of the ways

in which you will find them useful are shown on this and following pages. You will enjoy discovering others for yourself.

Mending a Tear

® Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O ® Pattern Selector:

® Stitch Width: | or ^ ® Stitch Length: About20

1. Trim ragged edges.

2. Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement. (It is best not to baste or pin the underlay since you

will be bringing the edges of tear to gether in the next step.)

3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges of the tea r together.

4. Shorten stitch length at ends and

corners to give extra strength.

5. Trim underlay.

Tear Mended with

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Bar Tacks

Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain,

are made with the plain zig-zag stitch at

satin stitch length. Use them at pocket corners, to attach garters, secure shoulder straps, belt loops and zipper openings.

Bar-Tacked Belt Loops

Page 56

KEEPING UP APPEARANCES (Continued)

Repairing Stretch Garments

Seams in stretch garments and lingerie retain their elasticity when stitched with

the feather stitch. This Flexi-Stitch pattern

builds s-t-r-e-t-c-h into the seam as it is being sewn and is equally suitable when used to topstitch (as shown) or to over

Stretch Garment Repair

edge. Make a test sample to check dial

settings.

® Stitch Width; ^ to ^

® Stitch Length; Red « ® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot ® Speed: Moderate

Seam Repair

Repairing Seams

Breaks in press-open seams can be repaired quickly and easily when you use the straight stretch stitch. This flexible

stitch is ideal for knit and stretch fabrics and particularly useful for repairing or strengthening curved seams or seams

that will receive strain when being worn.

1. Make a test sample to check dial settings.

2. Remove loose thread along the break and press seam edges together.

3. Re-stitch along original seamline, guiding seam under presser foot with out stretching fabric, lettng the machine

move the fabric to make the back-andforth stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. Overlap stitching one Inch

at each end. Press seam open.

Page 57

DARNING

Worn or torn spots on children's clothes, knits, and household linens can be darned effortlessly and quickly with little practice. You may choose to darn either with or without an embroidery hoop. When greater control is needed, an embroidery hoop is usually best.

Darning Without Embroidery Hoop

® Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O ® P&ttern Selector: Any setting

® Needle Position: ^

® Stitch Width: j ® Stitch Length: 12

® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot ® Pressure:

1. If area to be darned is open, baste an underlay in place.

2. Place area to be darned under presser

foot; lower presser foot and start stitching, alternately drawing fabric toward you and pulling it gently away from you.

3. Continue this forward-and-backward motion . as you fill the area with parallel lines of stitching. For additional

strength, cover area with crosswise

lines of stitching.

Darning without

Embroidery Hoop

Page 58

Darning With Embroidery Hoop

® Needle Position:

Feed-Cover Needle Plate

® Stitch Width: ! ® Stitch Length: In FINE area

® Feed Cover Needle Plate ® No Presser Foot

Preparation

Remove presser foot with shank (by re

moving the screw which fastens the

shank to the presser bar). Attach feed-

cover needle plate. Instructions for chang

ing the needle plate are given on page 8.

1. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned.

2. Center worn section in embroidery

hoop.

3. Position work under needle over feedcover plate and lower presser bar to

engage tension.

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand wheel over, and draw bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric.

5. Outline area to be darned with running

stitches for reinforcement.

6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop

under needle at a slight angle from lower left to upper right. Keep lines of

stitching closely spaced and even in

length.

7. When opening is filled, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.

This method of controlling fabric move ment with an embroidery hoop may be used to do embroidering and monogramming.

Page 59

cleaning the machine

Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few

moments of your time to keep it clean. How often you will need to clean the machine will depend on how often you use It.

CAUTION: Before cleaning your macliine. disconnect power-fine

plug from electrical supply.

Clean between

Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts.

With a soft cloth, clean:

® Tension discs, take-up lever, and

thread guides.

® Presser bar and needle bar.

• Bobbin case. (If there is an excessive amount of lint in the area, remove the

bobbin case for cleaning. See page 58

for instructions.)

• Machine surface. (If necessary, dampen the cloth and use a mild soap.)

tension discs

Clean

Remove face plate as instructed on page

58 and clean area behind it with a lint brushf.

Remove needle plate as instructed on

page 8 and, using a brush, clean the rotating hook area under the needle plate and slide plate.

NOTE: Your machine requires no oiling under normal conditions. Your SINGER representative, or Approved Dealer will examine the permanently lubricated parts whenever your sewing machine requires

servicing.

Clean

fA lint brush designed for this purpose is available

for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing

Center.

Page 60

CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE (Continued)

removing bobbin case, face plate and bulb

CAUTiOW: Before removing bobbin

REMOVING AND REPLACING BOBBIN CASE

® Raise the presser foot. ® Turn hand wheel toward you until

needle is above the presser foot.

• Remove needle plate as instructed on page 9.

case, face plate and light bulb, disconnect po’weriine plug from electrical

supply.

Face Plate

Position Plate

Top

Cover

® Remove bobbin.

To remove bobbin case, turn bobbin case

holder to back as far as it will go. Lift out bobbin case.

To replace bobbin case, guide the forked

end under the feed and then draw the bobbin case under the position plate as

illustrated. Turn holder all the way forward to lock bobbin case in position. After lock ing bobbin case in position, check that bobbin case is not jammed, but has slight rotational movement.

® Replace needle plate. ® Fully close slide plate to lower the

needle plate locking pin and secure the

needle plate.

REMOVING FACE PLATE

• Loosen and remove screw and remove face plate by sliding it downward.

REPLACING FACE PLATE

® Slide face plate up so that rim is en

gaged under edge of top cover.

® Align screw hole at lower edge of plate

with screw hole in machine and replace and tighten screw.

Page 61

This machine is designed to use a 15 watt maxi

mum light bulb.

CHANGING CAUTION:

THE LIGHT BULB

Before removing bulb, disconnect power-line plug from electrical sup

ply.

Removing the Bulb

With thumb and forefinger lower the

light bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew bulb. Press it up into socket and at same

time turn bulb over in direction shown to

unlock bulb pin.

Replacing the Bulb

Press new bulb into socket with bulb pin entering slot of socket and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in position.

Push bracket back into recess.

Locks

This machine

Unlocks

Changing the Light Bulb

is designed to use a 15 watt maximum light bulb

REPLACING THE SLIDE PLATE

You will not have any occasion to remove the slide plate. However, if it should accidentally become disengaged from the machine, it is easily replaced.

@ Raise presserfoot and needle.

® Place slide plate in slideway with the

front edge close to, but not covering, the retaining spring (as shown in

illustration).

® With a screwdriver, lift each end of the

spring into each of the side grooves on the underside of the slide plate.

® Draw the plate gently toward you and

fully engage the spring.

® Close slide plate.

Raise Presser Foot

and Needle

Lift Retaining

Spring into Slide Plate Grooves

Replacing the Slide Plate

Page 62

performance checklist

Should sewing difficulty be encountered, review the sections of this instruction book that explain the sewing operation you are performing.

Ifthe problem still exists, the following hints will help you correct it.

If the machine does not sew, make sure . . .

® Machine is connected to the electrical supply.

0 Power and light switch is on.

® Hand wheel disc is in sewing position. (See page 13.)

if needle bar moves but stitch is not formed, make sure .

® Needle is straight and sharp.

0 Needle size is correct for the thread you are using. (See page 11.)

® Machine Is correctly threaded.

® Bobbincontainsthread. ® Bobbin and bobbin case are correctly inserted in machine. ® Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.

if fabric does not move, make sure . . .

® Presser foot is down and that pressure dial is adjusted for the weight and

texture of your fabric.

® Stitch length selector is correctly set. ® Feed-cover needle plate has been replaced with the correct needle plate

forthe stitching you are doing.

0 All lint is removed from around the feed.

To avoid breaking of needles, make sure . . .

® Needle Is not bent or burred, and that it is correct for the machine, and

proper size for the thread you are using. ® Needle is fully inserted in needle clamp. ® Machine is set for straight stitching at center needle position when you

are using the straight-stitch needle plate and foot. ® Twin needle does not strike needle plate when doing twin-needle

stitching. (See page 32.) ® Presser-foot shank is securely fastened to presser bar. ® Needle plate is correctly seated and slide plate is fully closed. ® Fabric being guided or supported behind the needle is not being pulled

too hard or too fast.

Page 63

if stitching is irregular, or needle thread breaks, make sure . . .

@ Ffexi-St/tch pattern dial is set at O when straight or zig-zag stitching.

® flexi-Stitch pattern dial is balanced when sewing Flexi-Stitch patterns.

® Machine is correctly threaded ® Thread is even and free from knots. © Needle is straight and sharp and right size for thread. ® Needle-thread tension is not too tight. ® Bobbin case is correctly threaded and properly inserted. © Threads are correctly placed under presser foot when you start to sew. ® Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends. ® Bobbin or bobbin case is not damaged.

Also remember to . . »

needle position. ® Use red selector settings for Flexi-Stitch pattern sewing. ® Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to O when making buttonholes. © Start and finish sewing with take-up lever in its highest position. ® Adjust stitch length, pressure, and thread tension to suit your fabric. © Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting a sewing job. ® Lower presser foot before setting pressure dial. ® Press hand wheel disc for sewing and disengage bobbin winder after

winding a bobbin.

® Remove feed-cover needle plate after button sewing and after darning

with an embroidery hoop. ® Sew at a moderate speed when using a Flexi-Stitch pattern. ® Clean your machine periodically.

Enjoy Sewing!

If you have any questions, please write to:

Consumer Affairs Department

The Singer Company

321 First Street, Elizabeth, I\lJ. 07207

Page 64

special accessories for special jobs

Fashion'' aids have been designed to enable you to give your sewing that

extra professional touch. The ones described on these pages are just a few of the complete selection available at your local Singer Sewing Center.

Professional* Buttonhofer f\lo» 102878

sews six kinds of buttonholes, plus eyelets, in a variety of fabrics.

Even Feed Foot No. 507806 is effective

in keeping fabric' plies even and in

Even Feed

Foot

matching plaids, stripes and patterns. It is an invaluable aid for sewing hard-to-

feed vinyl and fake fur, pi|e, stretch,

bonded and laminated fabrics. Ideal for

topstitching on all fabrics.

Ruffler

Button Foot

Ruffler No. 86742 offers a simple, effective way to make gathered and pleated ruffles. The ruffler is used for straight stitching only.

Binder Foot No. 81245 is used to apply ready-made bias tape or unfolded bias binding to an unfinished fabric edge. It is particularly useful for binding seam edges that might ravel.

Button Foot No. 161613 holds any

two-hole or four-hole button securely for stitching. The groove in the foot can be used to hold a needle, over which a thread shank can be formed.

Page 65

Seam Guide No. 161172 helps keep seam width uniform when extra control is needed, especially on unusually wide or narrow seams. Used as a guide for topstitching and blindstitch hemming.

Edgestitcher No. 36865, used with the straight stitch setting, is ideal for joining and inserting lace, tucking from pin width up to 1/4 inch (6 mm), French seaming and seam piping, facing, and seam finishing.

Gathering Foot No. 161659 can be used for evenly spaced shirring as well as for a single line of gathering. This foot is used for straight stitching only.

Hemmer Foot No. 161671 is used for

turning and stitching narrow hems in one

operation. Thus, you can eliminate bast ing or pinning whenever you are making ruffle edges, lingerie finishes, and the like.

Darning and Embroidery Foot No. 161876 is recommended for all types of

free-motion work. It is ideal for em

broidery, monogramming and decorative designs because the transparent toe fully reveals the line of the design to be

followed.

Hemmer

Foot

Darning and Embroidery Foot

Page 66

SPECIAL ACCESSORIES FOR SPECIAL JOBS (Continued)

Leather-Sewing Needle, Style # 2032 is used for stitching leathers

and suedes.

SINGER Oil, available in tube or one-application capsules, is especially prepared for leaving a fine film of lubricant on the precision bearing surfaces of your machine. It ensures freedom of parts movement and protects metal parts from excessive wear.

Lint Brush, with its nylon bristles, is an essentia! tool for cleaning the

thread handling areas which can accumulate lint and fluff.

SINGER Sewing Book ... a complete guide to sewing, with new ideas

and new techniques for fashion sewing and home decorating. It has over

1500 color illustrations dramatizing every step of the instructions, and

twenty-four pages of exciting color photographs.

Deluxe Monogrammer No. 171278. With the deluxe monogrammeryou will have the pleasure of stitching initials 1 -1 /2 inches high to create monograms that are ideal for adding a personal touch to table linens,

towels and wearing apparel. An attractive flower motif can also be made.

Page 67

your personal measurement chart

This chart wili enable you to keep a record of your measurements. Have someone assist

you in taking the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure.

The illustrations below show where the tape measure should be placed when taking each

measurement.

Inches (cm)

1. BUST — Fullest part — slightly higher in back ..

2. WAIST — Around natural

waistline...............................

3. HIP—

natural waistline (fullest

part) ......................................................

4. SHOULDER -- From base of neck to top of arm ..

5. FRONT BODICE WIDTH — From armhole to arm

hole 5 inches down from

center shoulder .. ..

6. BACK BODICE WIDTH—

From armhole to armhole 4

Inches down from center

shoulder .. .. ..

7. SHOULDER TO BUST—

From neck base at shoulder

to a line even with point of

bust

8. FRONT WAIST LENGTH

—From neck base at shoulder over fullest part of

bust to waistline .. ..

9. BACK WAIST LENGTH —

From the prominent bone

at base of neck to natural

waistline...............................

10. SLEEVE WIDTH—Around arm at upper edge of under

arm seam .. ..

11. SLEEVE LENGTH —

Shoulderto elbow ..

12. SLEEVE LENGTH —Elbow to wrist

13. FRONT SKIRT LENGTH—

Down center from waist

line to hem .. .. ..

14. BACK SKIRT LENGTH —

Down center from waist

line to hem .. ..

........

inches below

...................................... ...............................

................................ ...............................

.....................

...............................

...............

.....................

SLACKS MEASUREMENT CHART

15. FULL LENGTH—Waistto

floor at side seam ..

16. SLACKS LENGTH—Waist

to ankle ................................

17. CROTCH SEAM (stand ing) —

18. CROTCH SEAM (seated)

— Waist to chair at side seam

........................................

.........................

Page 68

INDEX

Page

Accessories Appliqué

Blindsiiich Hem Guide

Blindsîitch Hems ...................................... 48

Bobbin .................................................. 5, 9

Winding............................................. 12

Bobbin Case

Removing and Replacing

Threading

Buttonhole Foot................................... 7,36

Buttonholes............................................... 35

Stitch Density Balance

Buttons

Checklist

Cleaning the Machine .............................. 57

Darning Darts in Interfacing

Elastic, Attaching...................................... 40

Electrical Connections

Speed Controller

Embroidering

Fabric,Thread and NeedleTable.......... 11

Face Plate

Removing and Replacing

Fagoting..................................................... 52

Fashion ¡K\ûs

Feed-Cover Needle Plate

Feed ............................................................. 3

Finishes for Hems and Facings

Ffexi-Stitch Pattern Dial

F le xi-Stitch Patterns

Adjusting Stitch Balance

Free-Motion Stitching .............................. 56

General Purpose Foot Guiding and Supporting Fabric

Handwheel................................................... 3

Hand Wheel Disc......................................... 5

Hems, Blindstitch Knit Fabrics, Sewing

Light Bulb Lubrication Mending Needle

Changing................................................. 9

Threading ............................................. 15

Twin Needle .......................................... 33

Needle Clamp ......................................... 3,9

Needle Position Dial Needle Plate

Changing................................................. 8

Patchwork Quilting................................... 52

Personal Measurement Chart

Pin Basting ............................................... 22

..................

...................................................

.............................................

.....................................................

...................................................

....................................................

............................................

..............................................

.................................................

...............................................

....................................................

..........................................................

............................................

.......................

........................

....................

........................

...................................

......................

.............................

...................

...............

.............

................................

.....................................

...............................

.................

3, 25, 29, 31

....................

4, 17, 26, 30

................

6, 34, 56

.............

.........

7,48

5, 10

5,10

23, 39

58 14

34 60

48 38 59 57 53

3,6

Power and Light Switch

Presser Foot........................................3, 6, 7, 8

Changing................................................. 8

Presser Foot Lifter .................................... 3

Pressure Adjustment

Principal Parts ............................................ 2

Reverse-Stitch Push Button

Satin Stitching........................................... 28

Seams, Sewing

Corded .................................................. 46

Curved

Finishes................................................. 50

Ladder

Lingerie................................................. 41

Overedged............................................. 42

Plain Stretch

Shell Edging

Slide Plate .............................................. 3, 59

Snap-in Thread Guide................................. 3

Special Fabrics, Sewing Special Purpose Foot

Spool Holder ......................................3, 9, 12

Spool Pin...................................................... 9

Stitch Density Balance

(Buttonholes) Stitch Length Dial Stitch Width Dial Straight Stitch Foot Straight Stitching

Adjusting Selectors

Stretch Fabrics, Sewing

Take-up Lever

Tension Adjustment.................................... 4

For Straight Stitching........................... 20

ForZig-Zag Stitching........................26, 28, 30

Thread.................................................... 11

Thread Cutter............................................... 3

Threading the Machine

Top Stitching

Twin-Needle Stitching............................... 32

Winding the Bobbin Zig-Zag Stitching

Basic Zig-Zag Patterns

Needle Position

Satin Stitching Selecting Stitch Pattern Stitch Length

Stitch Width.............................................26, 30

Zipper Foot Zippers

......................................................

Blindstitch Zipper Insertion

........................................

...................................................

........................................

.............................................

.......................................

......................

......................................

.............................................

.......................................

......................................

.............................

..........................................

..............................

..........................

...........

..........................

...............

....................

.............................

.........................

..........................

.......................

..................................

........................

..............................

......................

Page

3,19

4, 18, 21

39 52

7, 27, 32, 51

37 4, 18, 28, 31 4, 17, 26, 30

6,17

12, 33

26, 30

27, 28, 31

7,46

...............

5, 10

Page 69

Page 70

Page 71

Dear Customer:

We recommend that for future reference you record the Serial

Humber of your Sewing Machine in the space provided^

Refer to iUustrathn

at right for location

of Serial Number on

your machine.

Serial No.

Ж '

.•-■•■■■ч ’‘.‘v.

'' ¥?)■■

Ш Ш

v:>:. ];Щ* ■

^ ^ >

■

Here, there, everywhere... SINGER

fOtcrx K9176 08$)

Tradernafk of THE SiNCEB COMPANY

Pr^’^ted sn W.-Gormany

Page 72

SINGER 814 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

y Bobbin Win d er

accessories ... and when to use them

preliminary steps

choosing needle and thread

adjusting selectors for your fabric

basic zig-zag patterns

satin stitching

Flexi-Stiîch patterns

threading for twin-needle stitching

buttons

buttonholes

sewing knit and stretch fabric

Stitch

Straight Stretch Stitch

Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

Ric-Rac Stitch

Blindstitch

Where to Use

Feather Stitch

hints on sewing special fabrics

construction details

keeping up appearances

cleaning the machine

removing bobbin case, face plate and bulb

performance checklist

special accessories for special jobs