SINGER 717 User Manual

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Zig-Zag & STRETCH Sewing Machine by SlfsiGER

Congratulations...

The new Zig-Zag & STRETCH model 717 sewing machine you are about to

use will take you into a wonderful new world of sewing. In addition to the

familiar Singer exclusives — Slant Needle and Front Drop-in Bobbin — this
sewing machine offers you:

• the simpUcity of dial controls. Now you can simply dial a stitch length,

a stitch width, pressure and tension settings

• straight stretch stitching for sewing seams in knits and other stretch

fabrics plus regular straight, zig-zag, and ric-rac stitching

• exclusive buiit-in threading chart that flips open to keep an easy-to-

follow diagram at your fingertips

• one-way needle clamp that makes it impossible to insert the needle

backwards

• stitch control dial that lets you switch from regular to s-t-r-e-t-c-h

stitching

• guidelines on both sides of the throat plate, which help you keep seams

• convenient power and light switch that gives you a choice of two

SDeeds

V..,.

• easy throat plate changing — throat plate secured by magnets is easy

to lift out for cleaning

• three-position presser foot lifter that lets you place bulky fabric or

many fabric layers under the presser loot

• built-in sewing light that illuminaies the sewing area

Your SINGER sewing machine is the key to your sewing success when used
property. To achieve professional results, SINGER suggests you sit down
at your machine and go through this book step by step before you begin to
sew. You’ll discover all the many advantages of sewing with your Zig­Zag & STRETCH sewing machine.

Enjoy sewing!
SINGER* Service is always close at hand, if your machine should need

servicing, call your local SINGER Sewing Center to be sure of warranted

SINGER Parts and Service. You will find the address in the telephone direc
tory under SINGER COMPANY.

Copyright 1973 THE StNCSR COMPANY

AH .Rights Reserved Throughout the Wohd

CONTENTS

1. Getting to Know Your Uachine
Principal Parts and What They Do

.........................................................................................................

.................................................................................

...............

2
3

Accessories ....................................................................................................................................... 4

Z Getting Ready to Sew ............................................................................................................................ 7

Preliminary Steps .............................................................................................................................. 7

Choosing Needle and Thread............................................................................................................ 8

Threading the Machine......................................................................................................................... 9

Winding the Bobbin ♦ Threading the Bobbin Case • Threading the Needle ♦ Raising the
Bobbin Thread

3. Straight Stitching

................................................................................................................................ 14

Preparation .................................................................................................................................... 14

Starting to Sew................................................................................................................................... 14

Adjusting for Your Fabric.................................................................................................................. 15

Sewing a Seam ..

.................................................................................................................

......

17
Pin Basting ♦ Placing Fabric • Starting a Seam ♦ Guiding and Supporting Fabric ♦ Keep
ing Seams Straight • Turning Square Corners • Curved Seams * Reinforcing End of Seam

4* 2üig-2!lag Stitching .......................................................................................................................... 2»'

Zig-Zag Stitch Patterns...................................................................................................................... 21

Adjusting Dials................................................................................................................................... 21

Adjusting Stitch Width • Adjusting Stitch Piacemient • Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension ♦
Adjusting Stitch Control * Adjusting Pressure and Choosing Accessories

Satin Stitching .................................................................................................................................. 23

5. Buttons and Buttonholes ..................................................................................................................... 24

Buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 24

Buttonholes

6. Sewing the Professional Way

....

................................................................................................................................... 25

..........................................................................................

.................

27

Sewing Knit and Stretch fabric ......................................................................................................... 27

Guiding and Supporting Fabric ♦ Attaching Elastic ♦ Plain St.^'etch Seams ♦ Finishes for
Hems and Facings • Lingerie Seams

Hints on Sewing Special Fabric

.................... . .................................................................. 30

Leather-Look Vinyl * Ciré * Deep-Pile Fabrics ♦ Velvet and Velveteen

Construction Details ..................................................................................................................... 32

Zippers • Corded Seams ♦ Seam Finishes •Top Stitching

Decorative Touches ........................................................................................................................... 34

Border Designs ♦ Applique

Keeping Up Appearances............................................................................................................... 3$

Mending a Tear • Blanket Binding • Bar Tacks • Repairing Seams • Repairing Stretch
Garments ♦ Darning

7. Caring for Your Machine....................................................................................................................... 38

Cleaning the Machine......................................................................................................................... 38

Remioving Covers, Bobbin Case, and Bulb

............................................................................ 39

Performance Checklist ...................................................................................................................... 42

S. fashion* Aids ..................................................................................................................................... 43

Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 44

12. Bobbin Winder

Latch and Spindle

13. BobbinWinder

Thread Post

14. Hand Wheel

15. Power and Lighi

Switch

16» Heedle Position

17» StitcbWidthDiai

16. Stitch Control Dial

19. Beverse^Stitch

Lever

20. Sewing Li^ht

21. Needie Clamp

22. Slide Plate

principal parts and what they do

1. Tension Dial lets you select just the right
tension for your stitch, thread, and fabric.
The numbers eliminate guesswork in du
plicating settings.

2n Tension Discs, controlled by the tension

dial regulate the amount of tension on
your needle thread,

3, Bobbin Winder Tension Discs regulate

thread tension for bobbin winding.

4, Take-up Lever controls flow of needle

thread.

5, Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pres

sure on fabric. It has an all-purpose sew
ing setting plus settings for extra-light and
extra-heavy pressure and for darning.

6« Face Plate swings open for access to

threading chart and pressure dial.

7. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for

safety and convenience.

8. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed.

9. Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.

ID. Throat Plate, secured by magnets, lifts out

for removal. Guidelines on right and left
sides of plate help you keep seams straight.

11, Spool Pin holds spools of various sizes.
12, Bobbin Winder Latch and Spindle let you

fill bobbin quickly and easily. Latch dis
engages when bobbin is full

16. Needle Position Dial places needle In
either L (left), A (center) or R (right)
stitching position.

17. Stitch Width Dial controls the width of
zig-zag stitching and positions the needle
for straight stitching.

18. Stitch Control Dial allows for a variety of
stitch lengths; also has a special STRETCH
setting for straight or zig-zag stretch
stitching.

19. Reverse-Stitch Lever instantly reverses
stitching direction at the touch of your

finger,

20. Built-in Sewing Light illuminates sewing
area. Pull-down bracket makes it easy to

replace bulb.

21. Needle Clamp is designed to make needles
self-setting and eliminate the possibility
of inserting needle backwards.

22. Slide Plate, opens easily, lets you see
bobbin. Seam guidelines (extended from

throat plate) have cross lines to help you
turr^. square corners.

23. Presser Foot Lifter, at back of machine,
allows you to raise and lower presser foot.
Extra-high lift position permits easy place
ment of bulky fabrics.

24. Bobbin shows thread supply, is easily re
moved for winding,

13, Bobbin Winder Thread Post guides the

thread when winding the bobbin.

14, Hand Wheel controls movement of take-up

lever and needle. Always turn It toward

you,

15, Power and Light Switch turns on machine

and sewing light simultaneously. FAST and
SLOW speed range settings let you choose
the best sewing speed for your work.

25. Bobbin Case Tension Screw regulates
bobbin-thread tension. Seldom needs ad
justment.

26. Electrical Connections and Speed Con
troller are designed for your convenience
and safety.

27. Hand Wheel Knob engages hand wheel to
sewing m^echanism. Loosen knob for bob
bin winding.

O

O

accessories

The accessories that come with your sewing
machine are designed to help you do many
kinds of sewing easily and perfectly.

To increase the versatility of your machine still
further, additional accessories can be pur
chased at your Singer Sewing Center, For de
scriptions, see page 43.

1. BOBBINS

Bobbin

{No, 172222)

Changing the Needle

Re9ular Bail-Point

Needle Needle

{Cat 2020) (Cat 2045)

• One drop-in steel bobbin in your machine.

• Extra drop-in steel bobbins with your acces
sories.

2. NEEDLES

In place in your machine —

• Catalog 2020 (15x1)

With your accessories —

• Catalog 2020 (15x1) needles, tor all-purpose

sewing.

• Catalog 2045 bail-point (yellow band)

needles, for sewing synthetic knits and
stretch fabrics.

Changing the Needle

The needle clamp has been designed so that
the needle can only be inserted with the flat
side of the shank toward the back.

1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,

loosen needle-clamp screw, and remove
needle.

Tension Screwdriver

2. insert new needle in clamp, with the flat
side of the needle to the back, and push
it up as far as it will go.

3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.

3, TENSION SCREWDRIVER

Designed to fit the bobbin case tension screw,
this screwdriver makes adjustment of bobbin­thread tension quick and easy. (For instruc
tions on bobblnAhreaâ tension adjustment, see

page 16.)

4. ZIG-ZAG FOOT AND THROAT PLATE

The zig-zag foot and the zig-zag throat plate
are in place on your machine. Ideal for alt util

ity sewing, these fittings can be used for either
straight or zig-zag stitching. Always use them
together when alternating between straight
and zig-zag stitching.

5. STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT AND

THROAT PLATE

The straight stitch foot and the straight stitch
throat plate are used when your fabric or sew

ing procedure requires close control Espe
cially useful for:

• Precision stitching of curved and scalloped

edges, top stitching, edge stitching, etc.

♦ Stitching on delicate or spongy fabrics, syn

thetics, and knits.

6. ZIPPER FOOT

The zipper foot is used to place stitching close
to a raised edge. Thus, it is as useful for corded
seams and tubular cording as it is for zipper
insertion {page 32}, It can be adjusted to either
the right or left side of the needle and may be

used with the straight stitch or zig-zag throat
plate.

Changing Presser Foot

1. Raise needle to its highest position and

raise the presser foot.

2. Loosen presser foot screw and remove the
foot,

3. Hook new foot around the presser bar and
tighten presser foot screw.

straight Stitch Foot and Throat Plate

Zipper Foot

Changing Presser Foot

7. FEED COVER THROAT PLATE

The feed cover throat plate replaces the throat
plate when fabric feeding is not desired. Use it
for button sewing {page 24) and tree-motion
6amlr\g (page 37).

Changing Throat Plate

(NOTE: Remove bobbin if it contains thread in
order to preyent thread being caught when
throat plate is replaced.)

1. Raise needle to its highest position and

raise presser foot.

2. Open slide plate. Remove throat plate by

placing thumb under plate and lifting it up

and out.

3. Position new plate over the two pins and

release. (Throat plate is drawn into position
by magnets.)

4. Close slide plate.

Changing Throat Plate

Seam Cuide

B. SEAM GUIDE

The seam guide will help you to stitch seams
of perfectly uniform width. It is especially use
ful for curved seams or top stitching, when
absolute accuracy is required. Also, because
it allows you to guide stitches at any distance
between Vs inch and 1V4 inches from fabric
edge, it is useful for very narrow or unusually
wide seams.

Attaching the Seam Guide

Place screw In hole to the right of the slide

plate; line up straight edge of guide with the
throat plate guideline for desired seam width,
and tighten screw.

9. STRAIGHT STITCH LOCKING KEY

The locking key furnished with your accesso

ries is used to remove the pin that locks the
dial controls for straight stitching in center

needle position. Insert key into locking pin and
turn key counter-clockwise to remove pin. To
‘lock'’ the machine in straight stitch position,
set dials at A and A , insert pin from top

through both dials and turn key clockwise.

2. GETTliyG HEADY TO SEW

preliminary steps

1. CONNECTING MACHINE

Before plugging in your machine, be sure that
the voltage and number of cycles mólcateó on
top surface of face plate conform to your elec
trical power supply.

To connect a classroom machine, insert the

power-line plug into your electrical outlet.
To connect a conventional household ma

chine, push the machine plug into the plug

receptacle. Then Insert the power-line plug

into your electrical outlet.

2, OPERATING MACHINE AND

CONTROLLER

To turn on both the machine and sewing light

and set speed range, slide the power and light

switch to the selected range.

Power-Line Plug

Electrical Connections

for Household Machine

F>X3T 3L.OW

♦ The FAST setting allows for full speed ca

pacity of the machine, ft is best for long,
straight seams, easy-to-handle fabrics, and
general sewing where a variety of speeds

is needed.

♦ The SLOW setting allows for maximum con

trol at lower sewing speeds. Use this setting

for special jobs such as button sewing,
buttonhole mtaking, and where construction
details require close control.

CAUTION: We recommend that you turn off
the power and light switch before changing
needles, presser feet or throat plates and v/hen
leaving the machine unattended. This elimh
nates the possibility of starting the machine by
accidentally pressing the speed controller.

To run the machine, press the speed controller

(or knee lever). The harder you press, the
faster the machine will sew within the selected
speed range.

F>OWeF? <SU L.ÍOÍ-HT

Power and tight Switch

choosing needle and thread

The needle and thread you choose will depend

upon the fabric being stitched. The table be
low is a practical guide to needle and thread

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE

FABRIC

DELICATE — tulle, chiffon, fine iace. or

ganza

LIGHTWEIGHT — batiste, organdy, jersey,

voile, taffeta, crepe, chiffon velvet plas
tic film

MEDIUM WEIGHT — gingham, percale,

pique, linen, chintz, faille, satin, fine cor
duroy, velvet, suitings, knits, deep pile
fabrics, vinyl

Fine mercerized cotton

selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing
project. Be sure to use the same size and type
of thread in both needle and bobbin.

THREAD

Fine synthetic thread
50 mercerized cotton

‘‘A^’silk

Synthetic thread

Polyester core/cotton

50 mercerized cotton

60 cotton

‘‘A” silk

Synthetic thread

Polyester core/cotton

CATALOG

CATALOG

CATALOG

NEEDLES

TYPE

2020

(15x1)

2020

(15x1)

2020

(15x1)

SIZE

S

11

14

MEDIUM HEAVY — gabardine, tweed, sail

cloth, denim, coatings, drapery fabrics,
vinyl, deep pile fabrics

HEAVY — overcoatings, dungaree, uphol

stery fabrics, canvas

WOVEN FABRICS (ALL WEIGHTS) ­decorative straight-stitch topstitching

SYNTHETIC KNITS AND STRETCH FAB

RICS — polyester doublekrilt nylon tri

cot, jersey, spandex, ciré tricot, panne

velvet

LEATHER — suede, kidskin, capeskin,

lambskin, lined leathers

tUse with $0 mercenzed cotton or '‘A'" silk in bobbin

8

Heavy-duty

mercerized cotton

40 to 60 cotton

Synthetic thread

Heavy-auty

mercerized cotton

24 to 40 cotton

Synthetic thread

silkt

(Buttonhole twist}

‘^A’’ nylon

50 mercerized cotton

silk

Polyester core/cotton
50 mercerized cotton

Synthetic thread

"*A”sl!k

Polyester core/cotton

CATALOG

2020

(15x1)

CATALOG

2020

(15x1)

CATALOG

2020

(15x1)

CATALOG

2045

Ball Point

(Yellow Sand)

CATALOG

2032

(15x2)

16

18

18

14

11

14
16

threading the machine

WiNOING THE BOBBIN

Preparation

It Is best to wind the bobbin before you thread the machine.

1. Turn hand wheel toward you until nee*
die is at its highest pos}tk>n.

2. Disengage hand wheel from sewing
mechanism by loosening the hand
wheel knob with your right hand while

holding the hand wheel with the left.

3. Open the slide plate.

4; Uft out the bobbin.

Engage Bobbin Winder Latch

Hold Thread End to Start Winding

Winding Steps

1. Place thread spool on spool pin over the
spool pin felt Lead thread between tension
discs (as shown}, around thread post and
through small hole in bobbin (from the in
side out).

2. Place bobbin on spindle and engage latch
by pressing it toward the bobbin.

3. Hold thread end as shown and start the ma
chine. Thread end will snap off after a few
coils have been wound on the bobbin.

4. When required amount of thread has been
wound (full bobbin will automatically re

lease), cut thread and remove bobbin from

spindle,

5. Tighten hand wheel knob by turning it away
from you with your right hand while holding

the hand wheel with your left hand.

10

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

1. Hold bobbin so that the thread unwinds
in direction shown, and put bobbin in
bobbin case.

2. Pull thread into notch in bobbin case,
draw it under the tension spring and
into the slot

3. Draw approximately three inches of

thread diagonally across the bobbin.

4. Close slide plate, allowing the thread

to enter the slot in the slide plate.

11

TH8EADIMG THE NEEDLE

1, Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to highest

position with take-up lever midway in slot. Raise presser

foot to release tension discs.

2. Place spool of thread on spool pin over the spool pin felt.
Lead thread through all points as shown, making sure to:

* Thread tensior^ discs as illustrated. WS^
♦ Th read ta.ke-up lever from right to left

With two hands, slip thread
horizontally between ten
sion discs from the top.

12

RAfSiNG THE BOBBIIsi THREAD

Now that you have wound the bobbin and
threaded the needle, you will need to raise the
bobbin thread through the needle hole In the

throat plate.

1. Hold needle thread lightly with the left hand

and turn the hand wheel s/ow/y toward you

$0 that the needle enters throat plate.

2. Continue turning hand wheel and holding

the needle thread until needle rises.

Tighten your hold on the needle thread and

bring up bobbin thread In a loop.

3- Open the loop with your fingers.

4. Place needle and bobbin threads under the

presser foot and draw both threads to baok

and right of needle.

To regulate needle-thread and bobbin-thread

tensions, see page 16.

.. you are now ready to sew

Steps

Step 4

13

3. STRAIGHT STITCHING

• Needle Position: A

mt

Í

A

1

w

w

Dials Set for Straight Stitching

• Stitch Width; A

• Stitch Control: To suit fabric

• Straight Stitch Throat Plate or
Zig-Zag Throat Plate

• Straight Stitch Foot or
Zig-Zag Foot

preparation

Before you set the dials for straight stitching,

turn the han6 wheel toward you until the needle

is above the throat plate.

SETTING THE MACHINE

1. Move needle position dial to A .

2. Set stitch width dial on A .

Straight Stitch Foot and Throat Plate

? I

3. Set stitch control dial for desired stitch
length. For regular straight stitching, turn
dial to a nutVibered setting; for straight

stretch stitching, turn dial to STRETCH
setting,

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Best results will be obtained if you use the

straight stitch foot and throat plate. However,
the zig-zag foot and throat plate may also be
used.

starting to sew

♦ Place needle and bobbin threads under pres-

ser foot and draw to back of machine.

♦ Position the needle in the fabric where de

sired for stitching start.
♦ Lower the presser foot and start the machine.
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics

adjust stitch length, pressure and thread ten

sion as instructed on the following pages.

14

For information on straight stretch stitching
turn to page 27.

adjusting for your fabric

SETtmQ STiTCH LENGTH

The stitch control dial regulates the length of
both straight and zig-zag stitches. The num

bers 6 to 20 represent the number of straight

stitches per inch: the higher the number, the
shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches
are best for lightweight fabric: longer ones for
heavy fabric. Curved seams, bias-cut seams,
and scallops require short straight stitches {15

to 20) for elasticity and smooth contours.
The FINE area, above 20, is used for adjust

ment of zig-zag satin stitohing (page 23).
The STRETCH setting is used for straight and

zig-zag stretch stitching only. For information
on straight stretch and zig-zag stretch stitch
ing, see pages 27 and 28.

• To set stitch control, turn dial until setting
desired is under the red line.

For reverse stitching, simply press reverse­stitch lever all the way down and hold in place.
Release lever for forward stitching.

Stitch Control Dial

REGULATING PRESSURE

The pressure dial regulates the pressure that
the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct

pressure is mportant because it means fabric

feeds smoothly and evenly. The NORM (nor

mal) setting is an all-purpose setting that can
be used fcr sewing a wide variety of fabrics

of different weights and textures. Intermediate

notched settings, above and below NORM,

are also provided. When you need extra con

trol to sew very heavy fabric, use the MAX

(maximum) setting.

Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.

• To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM

toward MAX.

* To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM

toward DARN.

« For darning^ set dial on DARN.

Darning

Pressure Dial

15

f^eedle-Thread Tmsion

BE8IJLATING THREAD TENSIOI^

Correct tension is important because too much
or too iittie will weaken your seams or cause
your fabric to pucker. Make a test sample with
the fabric and thread you pian to use, and ex

amine it. A perfect stitch will have the needie

and bobbin threads locked between the two

layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom

and no puckers.

Needle-Thread Tension

The tension dial regulates the degree of ten

sion on your needle threB6, Set it according to

the type of thread and fabric you use. The

numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in

duplicating settings.
if the stitches in your test sample look ioose,

increase needle-thread tension. If the fabric
puckers, decrease tension.

« To increase tension, turn dial to higher num

ber.

^ To decrease tension, turn dial to lower num

ber.

Bobbin-Thread Tension

Bobbin-thread tension is controiled by a screw
located on the bobbin case. You will seldom
need to adjust bobbin-thread tension since it

is usually possible to obtain the correct bal
ance by adjusting needle-thread tension
alone.

On those rare occasions when It becomes

necessary to adjust the bobbln-ihreab ten

sion, use the small tension screwdriver fur

nished with your accessories, A very slight
turn on the screw nearest the thread slot on

the bobbin case will produce a noticeable
change in bobblnAhreed tension.

^ To increase tension, turn screw clockwise.

« To decrease tension, turn screw counter

clockwise.

16

Decrease

Bobbin-Thread Tension

sevi/mg a seam

pm BASTING

Pin basting is a time saver and can be used in
place of hand basting when you are straight

stitching seams in easy-to-handie fabric.

Pin Placemern When

Seam Gurde Is Used

Use fine pins and place them so that:

• They are at right angles to the presser foot
and just nip into the fabric at the stitching
line.

• They do not extend under both sides of the

presser foot. Never piece pins on the under

side of the fabric in confect v/ith the feed.

PLACING FABRIC

Most fabric can be placed under the presser
foot by raising the presser foot lifter to its
normal up position. When placing bulky fab

rics. such as coating, knit or terry doth, or
multiple fabric layers, you will find it conven
ient to raise the presser foot lifter to the high-

rise position. Hold lifter in position (since it
does not lock) while placing fabric under the

presser foot. Make sure the lifter is all the way
down before starting to sew.

Pins Miplnto Fabric
at the Sthohing: Lina

High-Rise
Position

\

s?.

/

Hormial Up

Position

\

Presser Foot

Ufter

------

—

u

Pin Placemen t When

Seam: Guide Is Mot Used

Presser Foot Litter Settings

17

I

starting 3 Seam

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

Applying Gentle Tension

Stitching a Seam

STARTING A SEAM

1. With presser foot raised, turn hand wheel
toward you to position needle in fabric

about Vz inchvfrorn starting edge. Lower

the presser foot.

2. Press reverse-stitch lever an the way down

and hold in place. Backstitch to edge of

fabric for reinforcement

3. Release reverse-stitch iever and stitch in
forward direction.

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of
the presser foot Some fabrics, however, re
quire support while being stitched, as shown.

These fabrics require using the straight stitch

presser foot.

18

Applying Firm Tension

• For filmy sheers, knits, tricot, etc., apply

gentle tension by holding seam in front and

back of the presser foot.

• For stretch fabrics, apply firm tension front

and back when stitching In the same direc
tion as the stretch. For seam*s not on the
stretch direction, stitch in the conventional

manner, guiding fabric in front of the presser

foot

KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT

To keep the seam straight, use one of the num

bered guidelines on the throat plate. The num

bers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch,

from the needle. If you want a %-inch seam,

for example, line up your fabric with the num

ber 5 guideline. Note that both number 5

guidelines (the most commonly used) are ex

tended on the slide plate for your convenience;

the crosslines serve as cornering guides when
stitching a square corner.

For extra help in keeping the seam straight,

you may wish to use the seam guide. Because

it allows you to guide stitches between Vs inch
and 11/4 inches from the fabric edge, it is use
ful for very narrow or unusually wide seams.

Using Guidelines

Stitching Line

Using Seam Guide

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS

To turn a square corner % Inch from the

fabric edge, you need not measure or

mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines

on the slide plate.
* Line up your fabric with right or left

guideline 5 on the throat plate. SHtch

seam, slowing speed as you approach
corner.

*

Pivoting at Comer

♦ Stop stitching, with the needle down,

when the bottom edge of the fabric

reaches the cornering crosslines on the

slide plate.

♦ Raise presser foot and turn fabric on

needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric
in line with guideline 5.

♦ Lower the presser foot and stitch in new

direction.

Fabric at Crosslines

Fabric after Tu rning

19

CORVED SEAMS

1 - Use a short stitch for eiastichy and strength*

For example, if you use 12 stitches to the
inch for straight seams* seiect 15 to 20 per
inch to stitch curved seams in the same

fabric.

2. if you use the seam guide to guide stitch
ing, attach it at an angle so that the edge

that is closer to the needle acts as a guide.

REMFonam Em of sear^

1. stitch to the edge of the fabric.

■ '

.■ V" "I

feh

;

Reverse-Stitch Lever

2. Press reverse-stitch lever all the way down
and hold in place. Backstitch approximately
Va inch to reinforce end of seam. Release
lever.

3. Raise needle to its highest position, raise
the presser foot, and remove the fabric by
drawing it to the back and left.

4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of
presser bar.

20

The zig-zag stitches oulit into your sewing ma~

chine inciude the piain zig-zag pattern and the
open, reinforced zig-zag (Ric-Bac) pattern.

Piai settings for obtaining these patterns are

shown below and on page 22. You wih find

instructions for practical uses of these pat
terns in the section called ^‘Sewing the Pro­fessionaJ Way'" beginning on page 27.

ZIG-^ZAG STITCH PATTERNS

Plain Zig-Zag Stilcli: — used for buttonholes, button sewing, bar tacks, mending,
joining and reMorcmg. It is especiaiiy useful for flexible seams In knit and
stretch fabrics.

Jip Ric-Rac Stitclit — this open, reinforced zig-zag stitch Is used for heavy-duty
^ stretch sewing and decorative work.

tTrsi$ rs designed for stmrigth end регггг^пепсе and cannot do foadUy rioood out witnoat risk of fabric damage.

adjusting dials

mmsTiuB stitch width

Before moving die!, make sure needle 1$ above
fabric.

To produce a zig-zag pattern, turn the stitch
width dial to any setting between 1 and 5. The

higher the number, the wider the stitch.

AOJUSTIHG STITCH PLACEliEHT

Before moving the needle position dial, move
stitch width dial to 5, and make sure needle Is
above fabrio.

Needle position setting A places the needle

In center stitching position. Settings L and B

place the needle in left and right stitching po

sitions at stitch widths less than 5.
Setting A is used most often. Settings L and R

are used for special placement of stitching.

For example, an L setting is required for but
tonholing and button sewing. An L or R setting
can be used to place narrow zig-zag stitching
to the left or right of center in decorative work.

2-3 4 5

To adjust stitch placement, turn needle posi
tion dial until desired setting is aligned with

red line.

-Left —Center Right-

Adjusting Stitch Placement

21

ADJUSTING NEEDLE*.THfiEAD TENSION

Zig-zag stitching requires less needle-thread
tension than straight stitching. Make a test
sample with the fabric and thread you plan to
use so that you can adjust the tension properly.
The stitches should lie flat against the fabric
without causing the fabric to pucker.

If stitches are not flat and the fabric is puck

ered, lower the needle-^rea^i tension by turn

ing the dial to a lower number.

ADJUSTING STITCH CONTROL

Any stitch control setting from 6 to 20 will give
you an open zig-zag stitch. The lower the num
ber, the more open, or farther apart, your
stitches will be. The symbol on the dial above
20 designates the FINE stitch area and is used
for adjusting zig-zag satin stitching (see next

, page for specific instructions).

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

Stitch Control Dial

For zig-zag stretch stitching (Ric-Bac pattern),
continue turning stitch control dial downward
until the symbol STBETCH appears under the

red line.

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND
CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Turn to page 15 under ^^STRAIGHT STITCH
ING” for Instructions on adjusting pressure.

The zig-zag throat plate and zig-zag foot must
be used for all zig-zag stitching.

22

satin stitching

Satin stitching, a series of cioseiy spaced zig
zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-like sur

face, is used for both practical and decorative
work, it is suitable for bar tacks when closed

up to form a satin stitch.

When you wish to produce a satin stitch, make

a test sample first so that you can adjust the
stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft
fabric may require a backing to ensure firm

satin stitching. Crisp lawn or organdy is suit

able for this purpose.

ACCESSORIES AND DIAL SETTiNGS

♦ Needle Position: A

Stitch Width: 2 to 5

♦ Stitch Control: in FINE area

♦ Zig-Zag Throat Plate

« Zig-Zag Foot or

Special Purpose Foot (see note)

Stitch Control in FINE Area

As the Dial 1$ Rotated, Stitches Close Up

Adjusting Stitch Length

1. Set stitch control dial at bottom of FINE

area,

2. Run machine at SLOW speed.

3. GraduaHy turn dial downward until stitches
are closely spaced and form a smooth sur
face.

AcJfysting Thread Tension
Satin stitching requires less tension than

straight stitching or open zig-zag stitching,

furthermore, the wider the stitch, the lighter
the tension on the thread must be. Notice the
stitching on your sample, lithe fabric is puck
ered, lower the needle-thread tension by turn-

in c the tension dial to a lower number.

NOTE: For best results in satin stitching, the spe
cial purpose foot is recommended (available for

purchase, see page 43),

Incorrect

Adjusting Thread Tension

23

St!tcn Width; A and 4
Needie Position: t
Feed Cover Throat Plate
Zig-Zag Foot

1, Set stitch width dial at A , Position button

under foot so that the needle will enter the
left hole. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel to
ward you until needle rises out of button

and is just above the foot,

The space between the holes in the button de~

termines the stitch width settings. The A set

ting must always be used to position the needle

over the left hole and fasten, stitching. For but
tons with standard hole spacing, use settings

A and 4* For buttons with unusual hole spac

ing, use setting A and increase or decrease

the width setting 4 as necessary.

To sew on two- or four-hoie buttons, approxi

mately one inch in diameter or larger:

2, Set stitch width at 4. Then, v/hen you begin

to stitch, the needle should enter the right
hole of button. Take six or more zig-zag
stitches at this setting, ending on left side,

3, To fasten stitching, return to stitch width

A and take about three stitches.

For best results with buttons smaller than one
inch in diameten It is recommendec that the

Button Sewing Foot be used. See page 43,

24

buttonholes

Stitch Width: 2% and S or to suit fabric
Needie Position: L

Stitch Control: HUE (above 20)

Zig-Zag Throat Plate
Zig-Zag Foot or Special Purpose Foott

Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of

your fabric. Be sure to duplicate the thickness
of the garment and Inclube interfacing if ap­propriate.

SUTTOMHOLE LEUQJH
First decide how long the opening needs to be.

This win depend on the diameter and thickness

of the button. To find the right length, cut a

small slit in a scrap of your fabric and gradually

enlarge it until the button slips through easily.
Ther^ add at least Vs inch (Vu inch for each bar
tack), and mark the fabric as illustrated. This
bar-tack measurement is approximate; on some

buttonholes, you may need to increase it to

arrive at pleasing proportions.

Marking Unes

STITCH WIDTH SETTINGS

Next, determine the two stitch width settings

that you will need: one for side stitching and

one for bar tacks (closings at ends of button

hole). Settings 2V2 and 5 are illustrated below,

although other combinations may be used, as

long as the combined width of side stitching

does not exceed the width of the bar tacks.

Selector
at 2 Va

SideSitehing

Length of

Cutting Space

Bar Tacks

Bar Tacks and

Side Stitching

Selector
at 5

tlhe Special Purpose Foot described on page 43 Is designed to aid in making buttonholes.

25

Side Stitching

с в

PROCEDURE FOR MAKING

8AR»TACK BUTTONHOLES

With needle position dial at L, set stitch width

dial on ZVz for side stitching of buttonhole.

Place work under needle, aligning center mark

ing of buttonhole with slot in the presser foot.
Side Stitching: Position needle in fabric at

point A. Lower the foot and stitch to end of
marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B.
Raise the foot and pivot work on needle. Lower

the foot. Take one stitch without changing

width setting; bring needle to point C,

/т^т’Фщт

•

.. .. .. .. .г.. .. .. . . . .

'гтгш

t А ^

.. ..

■;

- Ф I

Bar Tack

<■

Side Stitching

Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width for bar tacks and

take at least six stitches. Stop at point D,

Side stitching: Readjust stitch width for side
stitching. Complete work to point E. Leave
needle in fabric.

Final Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width for bar
tacks, and take at least six stitches In reverse,
ending at point F.

26

Fastening Stitch: To secure stitching, move
stitch width dial to A and take three stitches.

Remove work, draw threads to underside,
fasten and trim. Cut opening for button with
sharp scissors.

Final Bar Tack

6. SEWnyC THE PROFESSIONAL WAY

sewing knit and stretch fabric

When you are sewing stretch fabrics, double

knit, tricot or jersey, choose one of the stretch

patterns that build s-t-r-e-t-c-h into the seam.
The table below will help you make the right
selection.

Stitch

straight Stretchf

Stitch Control on STRETCH

Stitch Width A

Plain Zig-Zag

Stitch Control s to 20

Stitch Width 2 to 5

Ric-Rac Stitcht

Stitch Control on STRETCH

Stitch Width2to5

Remember to use a bai¡-point (yellow band)
needle, Catalog 2045, In the machine, and In
crease presser foot pressure v/hen you are at
taching elastic or sewing a synthetic knit or
stretch fabric.

Where to Use

Plain seams that s-t-r-e-t-c-h (press-open or
closed construction) — Crotch seaming —
Sleeve and gusset insertion — Flexible top
stitching — Swim and ski suit construction
— Attaching patch pockets — Repairing and
reinforcing seams.

All-purpose sti'etch sewing — Lingerie seams
— Attaching stay tapes *- Seam finishing —
Edge finishing — Attaching stretch lace.

Heavy-duty, all purpose stretch sewing
Reversible top stitching.

tT^!S stitch is designed for strength and permanence and cannot be readiSy ripped out without risk of fabric damage,

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction
need only to be guided in front of the presser

foot when you use one of the stretch stitches.
Simply let the machine move the fabric to

make the stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the

seam.
Some fabrics, however, require support while

being stitched.
♦ For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet, and simi

lar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension by
holding seam in front and back of the presser

foot as you sew.

♦ For elasticized fabric, stretch lace, and knits

with an unusual amount of elasticity, apply
firm tension in front and back of the presser
foot to stretch the seam as the stitches are
being placed.

Applying Cenile Tension

Applying Firm Tension

27

ATTACHING ELASTIC

To Attach Waistline Elastic

Elastic wiii remain stretchable when it is

attached with the plain zig-zag stitch. The

flexible joining proQuced by this stitch allows

elastic banding to be stitched under, oven or
between fabric layers, making it particularly
useful in the construction of lingerie and swim

suits.

Needle Position: A
Stitch Width: 4
Stitch Control: About 20

Zig-Zag Threat Plate
Zig-Zag Foot

Attaching Elastic with Zig-Zag Stitch

1. Fit elastic for desired waistline snugness,
allowing one inch for joining. Lap ends and
join with zig-zag stitching.

2. Divide elastic band and garment waistline
into quarters or eighths. Place elastic over
fabric and pin the two together at these

points.

3. Take a few stitches to anchor elastic to
fabric, then stretch elastic between pins as

you sew, using both hands to hold elastic

taut In front and back of the presser foot.

PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS

Needle Position: A
Stitch Width: A
Stitch ControuSTBETCH
Zig-Zag Throat Plate
Zig-Zag Foot
Speed: IVoderate

When you use the straight stretch stitch to
seam knit, stretch, and elasticized fabric,
s4-r-e-i-c-h and strength are built in as the
seam is being sewn. Because it is equally use
ful for closed or press-open seam construc

tion and will not break thread under stress, the

straight stretch stitch Is also good for seams
that receive an unusual amount of strain when

worn. For example: crotch seaming, sleeve
Insertion, and construction seams in sports

wear and baling suits.

28

Strmghi Stretch Stitching

Frocediire

1. Make a test sample to determine thread ten
sion. Be sure to insert a bail-point (yellow
band) needle in machine if you are stitching
a synthetic knit fabric.

2. Stitoh and guide fabric as you do for plain
seams stitched with the regular straight
stitch, letting the machine make the back­and-forth stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-o-h to

the seam. If fabric has an unusual amount

of elasticity, it should be stitched under
tension as instructed under "'Guiding and
Supporting Fabric.”

3. Press seam as when using the regular

straight stitch.

FINISHES FOB HEMS AMD FACIHGS

Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fab

rics wih be iCss apt to press through and mark

when given a fiat edge-finish. Edge finishing
with the zig-zag stitch eliminates the buik of
turned-in edges and retains fiexibiiity.

Set stitch width at S and stitch controi at 8 to
20, depending on fabric. Use the zig-zag
accessories,

1, Make a test sampie to check thread tension

and stitch length.

2, Place stitching about ¥2 inch from hem cr

facing edge,

3, Press after stitching and trim away excess

fabric close to the stitching line,

LINGERIE SEAMS

To make seams in lingerie durable and flexible
use a combination of straight and zig-zag
stitching. Make a test sample to help you de
cide which of the following methods is most
appropriate for your fabric and garment

Method #1 is particularly suitable for %~inch

bias seams in woven fabric and Method #2 is
best for seams in nylon tricot.

Method ¿r 1

« Needle Position: A

• Stitch Width: 2
* Stitch Control: 15 to 20, depending on fabric

Zig-Zag Accessories

1. Straight-stitch the seam (at stitch width A )
on wrong side of fabric.

2. Press both seam aiiowances in the same
direction.

3. From the right side, top-stitch with narrow

zig-zag stitching, letting the needle aiter­nateiy enter the seam line and seam thick

ness.

Method #2

1. Allow for a %-inch seam aliowance.

2. Straight-stitch seam line on wrong side of
fabric,using a regular or stretch stitch. (Set

stitch control for STRETCH if straight
stretch stitch is to be used.)

3. Place a line of medium-wide, open zig-zag

stitching close to straight stitching. (Stitch

width 3V2 - 4; stitch control 20.)

4. Trim away excess fabric close to stitching
to produce a narrow seam edge.

29

hints on sewing special fabric

LEATHER-LOOK VINYLf

• Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape
instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zip
pers and hems in place for stitching.

• Stitch with a long stitch (8 to 10 straight

stitches per inch). A short stitch may cut the
fabric.

• Sew with a steady, even pace and stitch ac

curately. Seams cannot be ripped out with
out leaving needle marks in the fabric.

• The shiny side of some vinyls tends to stick

to metal surfaces. Use a strip of tissue paper
between the fabric and metal machine sur
faces to present this.

• Reinforce button and buttonhole areas with

interfacing. Bound buttonholes are the best
choice for vinyls with knit backing.

• Topstitchingholdsseamsandgarmentedges

smooth and flat, and adds a decorative note.

• For sharp points on collars and lapels, take
one or two stitches diagonally across the
point to allow enough space to enclose the
seam edge smoothly.

CIRE (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot)f

• Do not use pins in any area of the garment
that will be visible when oompleted.

• Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape

instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zip
pers and hems in place for stitching.

• Stitch accurately; seams cannot be ripped

out because needle marks remain in the

fabric.
Sew seams under gentle tension by holding

fabric slightly taut at front and back

needle.

Stitch ciré taffeta with a fairly long stitch (8
to 10 straight stitches per inch) and use an
enclosed edge finish for seams and hems.

Stitch ciré knits with a medium-length stitch

(12 straight stitches per inch) and use a fine

ball-point needle.
Machine-worked buttonholes (as well as

bound buttonholes) can be made in ciré fab

ric. Always use an interfacing and make sure

the close zig-zag stitches do not cut the

fabric.

of

Turning a Sharp Comer on Leather-Look Vinyl

tThe Even-Feed Foot (¿escribed on page 43 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

30

DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fyr)f

• Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place pins at
short intervals at right angles to the seam
line. Pins with colored heads are easy to see
and remove.

• Sew in direction of nap.

• Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch (8 to
10 straight stitches per inch) and use poly­ester/cotton thread in a size 14 or 16 Cata
log 2020 needle.

• As seam is stitched, smooth pile away from
seam allowance with a darning needle or up

holstery pin.

• After stitching seams with a %-inch seam
allowance, use small hand scissors to shear

pile from entire seam allowance to reduce
bulk,

• Stitch 14-inch pre$hrunk tape into neckline
and shoulder seams for stability and rein
forcement, or stitch with the straight stretch
stitch (stitch control set on STRETCH),

• Leather and leather-look fabrics comple

ment fur fabrics; use them for bound button
holes and easy button loops,

Smoothing Plie Away
from Seam Allowance

• Coat hems are less bulky if narrow and fin

ished with a 3-inch fabric facing or gros­grain ribbon,

• Slash through the center fold of darts and
finger-press open or stitch with a narrow zig

Stitching Deep-Pile

Fabrics (Fake Fur)

zag stitch and trim away excess fabric after

stitching.

VELVET AND VELVETEENf

• Use a light pressure dial setting to prevent
crushing pile.

• Mark and baste with silk thread,

Pin or hand-baste seams and sew under
gentle tension by holding fabric slightly taut

at front and back of needle (see page 18),

Extra-long straight seams may be machine

• Use a Catalog 2020, size 11 needle and a
fine thread for seaming, **A” silk or nylon
thread Is recommended for sewing velvet
and velveteen,

• Always stitch in the direction of the nap.

tlhe Even-Feed Foot described on page 43 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch.

To sew pann^ velvet, use a ball-point needle
(yellow band) and a shorter-than-normal
stitch length (12 to 15 straight stitches per
inch).

31

construction details

ZIPPERS

At the notions counter in your Singer Sewing

Center, you will find many different kinds of
zippers, one of which will be just right for
whatever you want to sew. How the zipper is

inserted will depend on the type of garment
and the location of the zipper. The zipper pack

age win contain easy-to-foOow instructions.

And, if you use the zipper foot, you will find it

easy to form an even line of stitching close to

the zipper.

Needle Position: A

Stitch Width: A

Stitch Control: 10 to 15
Zig-Zag Throat Plate or

Straight Stitch Throat Piate

Zipper Foot

Adjusting the Zipper Foot

Making the Welting

When the zipper is to the right of the needle:

1. Loosen the thumb screw at the back of the
foot, and slide the foot to the left of the

needle.

2. Check the position of the foot by turning the

hand wheel to lower the needle into the side
notch of the foot, making sure it clears the

foot.

3. Lock the foot into position by tightening the
thumb screw.

4. Lov^er presser bar. Make sure the needle

clears the foot on all sides of the notch,

V^hen the zipper Is to the left of the needle, ad
just the foot to the right of the needle in the
same way.

CORDED SEAfVIS
The corded seam is a professional treatment

for slipcovers, children’s clothes, blouses, and

lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the

welting first (or buy it ready-made at a notions

counter), then stitch it into the seam. For both
steps, use the zipper foot so that you can place
the stitching close to the cord.

32

SEAM FINISHES

Meedle Position: A
Stitch Width: 4 or 5
Stitch Control: 8 to 20, depending on fabrio
Zig-Zag Throat Plate
Zig-Zag Foot

Seam edges support the garment and should
be given a durable finish If the fabric is likely
to ravel

1. Make a test sample and adjust stitch length
and stitch width to suit fabric. Choose the
settings that will give you the most ‘‘open"
stitch that will secure the fabric edges;
avoid harsh, over-stitched edges.

2. Trim seam edges evenly.

3. Place stitching near the edge of the seam
allowance or over the raw edge as illus
trated.

4. If stitching Is placed near the edge of the
seam allowance, trim away the excess fab
ric after stitching.

Overedged Seam Fmish

TOP STITCHING
A practical simple way to accent the lines of a

dress or coat is to place one or more rows of
stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges,
pockets, seams, etc.

♦ For a tailored look, use lines of regular

straight sthching (using the straight stitch
throat plate and foot): sew them with button

hole twist for added emphasis.

• For decorative Interest, use a zig-zag pattern

(using the zig-zag throat plate and zig-zag

foot).

To add fkirmess to hems and seams in knit and
stretch garments, top-stitch with the straight
stretch stitch (stitch width A and stitch con
trol on STRETCH).

The seam guide will help you place rows of
stitching accurately.

Trimming Seam Edges

Top Stitchmg

33

decorative touches

BORDER DESIGNS

Border designs that add a decorative touch to
wearing apparel and household items can be
created by combining different types of
straight stitching and zig-zag stitching. Simple
or elaborate, delicate or bold, they can be var

ied to suit the application. Use them as you

would a braid or to simulate horizontal, vertical

or bias stripes on plain fabric.

Procedure

Mark or crease fabric for the center line of first

row of stitching. If spacing between rows is not
greater than Vt inch, gauge additional rows
with the presser foot. If spacing is wider, mark

for each line of stitching. Use a backing of

crisp lawn, organdy or organza and be sure to
make a test sample on a swatch of your fabric

to check stitch settings and thread tension.

APPLIQUE

Applique adds beauty and interest to clothing

and household linens. You can create your
own design, trace a
oring book, or use a motif cut from a printed

fabric, fabrics of like or different texture com

bine equally well.

Use a closely spaced, fairly narrow zig-zag
stitch. Although you may vary stitch width to
accommodate fabric weave or texture, never

allow the stitch to be too wide.
When appliqueing, make a test sample to help

you decide which of the following methods is
more appropriate lor your fabric and design.

simple outline from a col

Preparation

• Baste applique design to fabric.

Border Design

i/lethod #1—‘Trimming after Sl^tching

♦ Outline design with straight stitching (use a

short stitch).

• Remove basting and press.
♦ Attach zig-zag throat plate and foot.

Method #1

1. Set stitch width dial. Adjust stitch length in

the FINE area of the stitch control.

2. Outline the entire design with applique
stitching.

3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of
the stitching with embroidery scissors.

Method #2

1. Trim outside edges close to straight stitch
outline of design.

2. Set stitch width dial. Adjust stitch length in
the FINE area of the stitch control.

3. Overedge the design with satin stitching.
This step will produce a smooth, lustrous
finish that requires no additional trimming.

NOTE: For best results in satin stitching, the special purpose foot is recommended (avaiiabie for purchase, see page 43).

34

keeping up appearances

The plain zig-zag stitch is just as useful for
mending as it is for creative sewing. It forms
a firm, flexible bond for repairing tears and for
making bar tacks to repair lingerie and to re
inforce points of strain.

MENDING A TEAR

Needle Position: A

Stitch Width: 2 to 5
Stitch Control: About
Zig-Zag Throat Plate
Zig-Zag Foot

1. Trim ragged edges.

2. Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for
reinforcement. (It is best not to baste or pin

the underlay, since you will be bringing the
edges together in the next step.)

3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges

of the tear together. Shorten stitch length at
ends and corners to give extra strength.

20

A Tear Mended with Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

4. Trim underlay,

BLANKET BINDING
Often you can make an old blanket look almost

new by replacing the binding.

• Needle Position: A

• Stitch Width: 5

• Stitch Control: 15 to 20

• Zig-Zag Throat Plate

• Zig-Zag Foot

1. Remove worn binding and baste new bind
ing in place,

2. Reduce pressure on fabric by turning the
pressure dial to a setting below normal and

increase stitch length, if necessary, so that
blanket feeds freely,

3. Stitch, and remove basting.
BAR TACKS

Blanket Binding

Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain, are
made with the plain zig-zag stitch at a closed

stitch length.

Bar-Tacked Belt Loops

35

REPAIRING SEAMS
Breaks in press-open garment seams can be

repaired quick’y and easily when you use the
straight stretch stitch (stitch width A and
stitch control on STRETCH setting). This re

inforced stitch is both strong and flexible. It

is ideal for knit and stretch fabrics and par
ticularly useful for repairing or strengthening

curved seams or seams that will receive strain
when worn.

1. Make a test sample to check dial settings.

2. Remove loose thread along the break and
press the seam edges together.

3. Re-stitch along original seam line, gul6lng
seam* under presser foot without stretch

ing fabric, letting the machine move the

fabric to make the back-and-forth stitches

that give $-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. Overlap

stitching one inch at each end. Press seam
ooen.

Seam Repair

REPAIRING STRETCH GARMENTS

Needle Position: A
Stitch Width: $ to 5
Stitoh Control: 20 orto suit fabrio

Zig-Zag Throat Plate

Zig-Zag Foot

Seams and hems in stretch and elasticized
garments retain their elasticity when stitched
with the plain zig-zag stitch. This stitch is par

ticularly effective when used in top-stitch ap

plications (as shown) or to overedge. Make a

test sample to check dial settings.

36

Stretch Garment Repair

OARNIMQ

Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes, knits,
and household nnens can be darned effort

lessly and quickly with little practice. You may
choose to darn either with or without an em
broidery hoop. When greatercontrol is needed,

an embroidery hoop is usually best.

Without Embroidery Hoop

♦ Needle Position: A
♦ Stitch Width; A
♦ Stitch Control: 10 to 15

♦ Pressure: DABN

♦ Zig-Zag Throat Plate

♦ Zig-Zag foot

1. If area to be darned is open, baste an under
lay in place.

2. Place area to be darned under presser foot;

lower presser foot and start stitching, al
ternately drawing fabric toward you and
pulling it gently away from you.

3. Continue this forward and backward motion
as you fill the area with parallel lines of

stitching. For additional strength, cover

area with crosswise lines of stitching.

With Embroidery Hoop

• Needle Position: A

• Stitch Width: A

* Stitch Control: In FINE area
« Feed Cover Throat Plate
♦ No presser foot

1. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned,

2. Center v^orn section in embroidery hoop.

3. Position work under needle over feed cover

plate and lower presser bar to engage ten

sion,

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand,

turn hand v/neel over and draw bobbin
thread up through fabric. Hold both thread

ends and lower needle into fabric.

5. Outline area to be darned with running

stitches for reinforcement.

6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop under

needle-ax a slight angle from lower left to

upper right. Keep lines of stitching closely
spaced and even in ler^gth,

7. When opening is filled, cover area with
crosswise lines of stitchino.

Darning without Embroidery Hoop

Darning with Embroidery Hoop

37

7. CARIIVIG FOR YOUR SEWING MACHINE

cleaning the machine

Your machine will serve you perfectly for many
years if you take a few moments of your time
to keep it clean. How often you will need to

clean the machine will depend on how often

you use It.

CAUTÍON: Before cleaning your machine, dis
connect power-line plug from electrical supply.

Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts. With a
soft cloth, clean:

• Tension discs, presser bar, and needle bar
* Take-up lever and thread guides

• Bobbin case (If there is a lot of lint in the

area, remove bobbin case for cleaning. See

page 40 for instructions.)

♦ Machine surface (If necessary, dampen the

cloth and use a mild soap.)

Open the face plate and clean area behind it
with a brush.

Remove throat plate as instructed on page 6
and, using a brush, clean the rotating hook
area under the throat plate and slide plate.

After cleaning, apply only SINGER* oil at

points indicated below. SINGER oil is sped“
ally prepared and does not contain harmiul
deposits that can interfere with the smooth

action of precision parts.
Approximately once every year, remove top

and bottom covers as instructed on page 39,
and clean and lubricate all moving or rotating
machine connections to ensure freedom of

movement and to protect metal parts from
excessive wear. To determine which connec­tions are moving or rotating, turn hand wheel
slowly (by hand) while covers are removed.

38

removing covers, bobbin case, and bulb

CAUTION: Before removing covers, bobbin

case, and light bulb, disconnect pov/er-IIne

plug from your electrical supply.

REMOVING AND REPLACING

TOP COVER

Move take-up lever to a low point and lower
the presser foot

1. Open face plate and remove screw A, lift
up right end of top cover, and slide cover
toward left and off machine.

2. Replace cover by positioning it on top of
arm with a slight overhang on left side.

3. Engage bobbin winder latch and slide cover
to the right as far as It will go. Replace and
securely tighten screw A.

4. Release bobbin winder latch.

REMOVING AND REPLACING
BOTTOM COVER

If your machine is a portable, first remove the
carrying case base as instructed on next page.

Houselioid Machine

1. Tilt machine back, remove screw from cen
ter of bottom cover, and pull cover straight
up (parallel to machine).

2. Replace bottom cover by positioning slots
in cover over the cushion pins. Push down
on cover to snap it into place. Replace and
tighten screw in center of cover.

Classroom Machine

1. Tilt machine back, remove screw from cen

ter of bottom cover, loosen the four corner

screws, and pull cover straight up (parallel

to machine).

2. Replace bottom cover by positioning slots
in cover over the lour corner screws. Push
dovm on cover, make sure cover is between
power-line retainer at bottom left corner
and m.achine casting, and snap cover into
position.

3. Replace and tighten center screw and
powerline retainer. Tighten the four corner
screws.

»

%

%

Removing and Replacing Top Cover

Removing and Replacing Bottom Cover

Removing and Replacing Bottom Cover

on Household Machine

Power-Line
Retainer

on Classroom Machine

Power-Li ne
Retainer and

39

Retaining Screws and Washers

REMOVING AND REPLACING
CARRYING CASE BASE

1. Disconnect machine plug from electrical
receptacle at right end of machine.

2. Turn machine over on its back and remove
screws and washers from each end of base.
Set machine and base upright and lift ma
chine up and out of base.

3. Replace machine in base after bottom cover
has been attached. Turn machine and base
over together to replace washers and
screws on underside. Tighten screws.

REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE

1. Turn hand wheel toward you to raise take­up lever to its highest position.

2. Open slide plate, remove throat plate (see
page 6 for instructions), and remove bob

bin.

Removing the Bobbin Case

3. Turn bobbin case holder to back as far as
it will go-

4. Lift out bobbin case.

REPLACING THE BOBBIN CASE

1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever to
Its highest position.

2. Insert bobbin case with a back-and-forth
motion so that the front of the case is under

the position plate as illustrated.

3. Turn holder all the way forward to lock bob

bin case in position.

4. Replace bobbin and throat plate and close

slide plate.

40

Replacing the Bobbin Case

REPLACING THE SUDE PLATE

You will not have any occasion to remove the

slide plate. However, If it should accidentally
become disengaged from the machine, it is
easily replaced.

• Raise the presser foot and make sure needle
is in its highest position,

• Place slide plate in slide way with the front

edge close to, but not covering, the retain

ing spring (as shown}.

• With a small screwdriver, lift each end of the

spring into each of the side grooves on the

m6erslde of the plate.

• Draw the plate gently toward you and fully
engage the spring.

V

• Close slide plate.

CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB

Make sure you have disconnected power­line plug from electrical outlet

Removing Bulb. With thumb of right hand,

push in and down on tab of light lens and
lower the light bracket. Do not attempt to
unscrew the bulb. Press it up into the

Replacing the Slide Plate

socket and at the same time turn bulb over
in direction shown to unlock the bulb pin.

Replacing Bulb. Press new bulb into
socket, with bulb pin entering slot of
socket, and turn it over in direction shown

to lock bulb in position. Push entire as

sembly up until it snaps In position.

41

performance checklist

REMEMBER TO

Make sure

connected.
Turn on power and light switch.
Turn hand wheel toward you to raise

needle above fabric or throat plate be
fore making ad|u$tments to stitch width
or need le position.

Use a ball-point (yellow band) needle to
sew nylon tricot and synthetic double-

knits.

Use high-lift presser bar setimg to place

heavy fabric m6er presser foot
Start and finish sewing with take-up

lever in its highest position.
Ad|ust stitch length, pressure, and

threap tension to suit your fabric.

Is the maohme properly threaded?

Is the bobbin case properly threaded?

Is thread unwinding freely from spool?

Is the needle securely tightened in

needle clamp?

Is the needle straight?

Is the thread suitable for the size of the

needle and free of slobs and knots?

electricai plug is properly

IF THREAD

Test stitch on a fabric sample before
starting a sewing job.

Replace bent or burred needles.
Lower presser foot before setting pres-

surediaL
Tighten hand-wheel knob after winding

a bobbin.

Use the zig-zag throat plate and zig-zag
foot for all zig-zag stitching, and for
straight stitching in L (left) or R (right)

needle positions.

Remove feed cover throat plate after
button sewing and after free-motion
darning or embroidery.

Sew at a moderate speed (SLOW speed

setting) when using the straight stretch
or ric-rac pattern^

• Is the spool-pin felt being used under
the thread spool?

♦ Is the needle-thread tension too tlght7
« Is the bobbin-thread tension too tight?

• Is the bobbin-case area free of lint and
loose thread ends?

* Are the thread guides and tension discs

also free of lint?

♦ Is the presser foot down?
♦ Is pressure dial adjusted properly for

the v>/elght and texture of your fabric?

30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, N.Y. 10020

42

IF FABRIC FAILS TO FEED

♦ Is the stitch control dial properly set?
♦ Are you using the feed- cover th roat

plate instead of the regular throat plate7

If you have any questions, please write to:

Departmerd of Sewing Education

The Singer Company

8. FASHION MDS

special accessories for special jobs

Fashion Aids have been designed to increase

the versatility of your sev/ing machine and
enable you to give your sewing that extra
professional touoh. The ones described below
are just a few of the complete selection avail
able at your local Singer Sewing Center.

Professional* Buttonlioier No. 102991

The Professional Buttonholer sews six kinds

of buttonholes, plus eyelets in a wide variety
of fabrics. You choose the style and length and
make perfect buttonholes every time.

1йопод rammer

With the monogrammer, you can stitch %-

inch-high initials to form monograms or names

that add a charming individual touch to hand

kerchiefs, blouse collars, ties, etc.

Deluxe IVlanogrammer

With the deluxe monogrammer you will have
the pleasure of stitching initials 1% inches

high to create monograms that are ideal for

No. 171256

No. 171276

adding a personal touch to table linens, towels,

and wearing apparel. An attractive flower motif
can also be made.

Burner

This accessory offers a simple, effective way
to make gathered and pleated ruffles. The

ruffler is used for straight stitching only.

Binder Foot No. 81200

The binder foot is used to apply ready-made

bias tape or unfolded bias binding to an un
finished edge. It can also be useful for binding
seam edges that might ravel

Special Purpose Foot No. 163483

This light, flexible foot is specially designed
for zig-zag satin stitching, applique and but
tonholing. It has a raised center section that
allows closely spaced zig-zag stitches to feed
evenly. The small eyelets at the front of the
foot hold a filler cord when desired.

Darning and Embroidery Foot No. 161875

This foot is recommended for all types of free-

No. 161551

motlon work. It is Ideal for embroidery, mono-

gram^ming, and decorative designs because
the transparent toe fully reveals the line of the
design to be followed.

Even Feed Foot

The Even Feed Foot is effective in keeping
fabric piles even, and In matching plaids,
stripes, and patterns. It Is an Invaluable aid for
sewing hard-to-feed vinyl and fake fur, pile,
stretch, banded and laminated fabrics. Ideal
for topstitching.

Hemmer Foot No. 171145

Narrow hems can be turr\ed and stitched In a

single operation If you use the hemmer foot.
Thus, you can eliminate basting or pinning
whenever you are making ruffle edges, lingerie
finishes, and the like.

No. 506415 Button Sewing Foot No. 161168

This short, open foot holds any two-hole or
four-hole butbn securely for stitching. The

groove in the foot can be used to hold a
needle, over which a thread shank can be

formed.

Finger Guard

The finger guard provides extra safety by pro
tecting fingers from the needle. It is ideal for
the student, beginner, or the blind person. A
permanently mounted, swing-away type, No.
22563, Is available on soeclal order.

No. 161681

43

INDEX

Accessories ........................................................ 4

Adjusting Dials .................................................. 15,21

Applique.................................................................. S4

Attaching Elastic

Bar-Tacked Belt Loops .....................................-.. 35

Blanket Binding ., -

Bobbin .................................................................. 4,9

' Raising Bobbin Thread

Winding

Bobbin Case.....................................................

Removing ............................................................40

Threading.......................................................... 11

Border Designs

Buttonholes ............................................................ 25

Buttons .................................................................. 24

Caring for Your Machine........................................ 38

Choosing Needle and Thread................................. 8

Darning

Fabric, Thread and Needle Table............................. 8

Finishes for Hems and Facings.............................. 29

Guiding and Supporting Fabric.......................... 18,27

Hints on Sewing Special Fabric

Light Bulb

Mending a Tear........................................................35

Needle

Performance Checklist............................................ 42

Pin Basting............................................................ 17

Power and Light Switch

Preliminary Steps ..................................................... 7

Presser Feet.................................................. 5,14,22

.................................................................

Ciré (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot)
Deep-Pile Fabrics (Fake Fur)

Leather-Look Vinyl ............................................. 30

Velvet and Velveteen

...................................................................

Position...................................................... 2,14, 21

Replacement ...................................................... 4

Threading

Changing Presser Foot

Zig-Zag Foot
Straight Stitch Foot

Zipper Foot............................................. ..

.....................................................

......

........................................... 35

.......................................

..........................................................

...................................................... 34

.......................

....................

............................

.........................................

...............................................................41

...........................................................

............................................

.........................................

....................................................

..............................................

28

13

9,10

11,40

37

30,31

30

31

31

4, $

12

5,22

5,32

7

5

5

Presser Foot Lifter............................................... 2,17

Pressure Adjustment .................................. 2,15

Principal Parts and What They Do
Repairing Seams
Repairing Stretch Garments

Reverse Stitching ............................................... 15

Satin Stitching
Seam Guide
Seam Finishes

Seams

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics
Slide Plate

Stitch Control Dial
Stitch Width Dial

Starting to Sew........................................................ 14

Straight Stitching .................................................... 14

Tension Adjustment....................................... 6,16, 22

Thread Cutter.....................................................

Throat Plates............................................................. 5

Top Stitching

Zig-Zag Stitching..................................................... 21

Zipper Insertion

.................................................................

Corded

Curved .............................................................. 20

In Fabrics That Ravel.......................................... 33

Lingerie ............................................................ 29

Plain Stretch........................................................ 28

Reinforcing End of Seam..................................

Straight.............................................................. 19

Choosing Accessories

Curved Seams

Starting a Seam

Straight Seams
Turning Square Corners

For Zig-Zag Satin Stitching

Changing Throat Plate

Feed Cover Plate

Zig-Zag ........................................................... 5,22

Straight Stitch

Zig-Zag Stitch Patterns

Sztifi Stitching...................................................... 23

...............................................................

...................................................

...

.................................................... 23

...............................................

.....................................................

.............................................................

......................................

.............................................

.....................................

....................................................

.................................................

...

............................................ 19

..........................................

......................................

.................................................

...............

.......................................................

........................................... 33

.....................................

........................

...

.............................

6,17, 20

............................

2,14,15,22

2,14,21

...

................................. 19

................................

6, 24,37

2,3
36

36

33

17

32

20

27
41

14

20

18

23

2,20

5,14

21

32

6

44

SINGER

SEWING MACHINE GUARANTEE

If you bring this SINGER'" Sewing Machine to any Singer
Sewing Center in the United States or Canada, at any time
after you purchase it from us, we guarantee to repair or re
place it free of any
in any part except those specified below.

Shouid there be a defect in the eiectrical parts (motor, switch,

wiring, or controis), we will repair or repiace the machine at

no charge within 2 years of the date you purchased it from us.

We will provide required adjustments of the machine and
replace any defective belt, bobbin, needle, and iignt bulb, at

no charge, for a period of 90 days from the date you pur

chased the machine from us.
Rlease note that this guarantee applies to SINGER sewing

machines In family use. not to machines used commercially.

change If there is a manufacturing defect

Form 21717 (Rev. 1173)

THE SINGER COMPANY
Thirty Rockefeller Plaza

New York. New York 10020

'A Trademark of THE SINOER COMRAMY

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