SINGER 518 User Manual

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CONGRATULATIONS .

You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new Sty/zst* Special Zig-Zag Sewing Machine by SINGER. We know you are eager to get started on a sewing project . . . but we urge you to become familiar with this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the

benefit of all the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that you keep the following points in mind :

choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the

wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or faulty stitching. The Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table on page 11 will help you make a perfect choice.

sew with a bent or blunt needle. If the needle is damaged—or improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause skipped

stitches. See page 9 for Instructions.

follow the instructions on page 15 for threading the machine. Note particularlythedirectionsforthreading the tension discs.

forget to place the thread properly when you insert a wound bobbin. Page 14 tells you how to do this perfectly.

become familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length

(page 18), presser-foot pressure (page 19), and thread tension (page 20). Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine !

allow lint and thread ends to accumulate In the bobbin case area—they can cause jamming or excessive noise. Clean your machine regularly, as Instructed on page 61.

remember that expert, dependable SINGER* service is always

do'

Above all, i/o enjoy sewing !

Form K8749 (jU (878)

(Part No. 116288-001)

available. If your sewing machine should require maintenance or repair, be sure to call your Singer Sewing Center or Authorized Singer Dealer. You will find the number listed under SINGER COMPANY in your telephone book.

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CONTENTS

Page

Getting to Know Your SINGER * Sewing Machine

Principal Parts—^And What They Do..................................................... 2

Accessories—And When to Use Them................................................... 6

Getting Ready to Sew ................................................................................... 10

Preliminary Steps .................................................................................. 10

Choosing Needle and Thread............................................................... 11

Threading Your Sewing Machine.......................................................... 12

----------------------------

Straight Stitching

Adjusting Selectors ............................................................................... 18

Sewing a Seam ..................................................................................... 21

Zig-Zag Stitching

Fashion^ Disc Patterns.......................................................................... 26

FlexFStitch* Disc Patterns.................................................................... 30

Twin-Needle Stitching ................................................................................... 33

Preparation ............................................................................................ 33

Threading the Needle ............................................................................ 34

Buttons and Buttonholes.............................................................................. 35

Buttons................................................................................................... 35

Buttonholes............................................................................................ 36

Sewing the Professional Way

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics

Construction Details.............................................................................. 47

Decorative Touches .............................................................................. 52

Keeping Up Appearances...................................................................... 57

...........................................................................................

......................

..................................................................... 25

......................................................................

.......................................................

........................................................

Caring For Your Machine.............................................................................. 61

Cleaning and Lubricating the Machine ............................................... 61

Removing Covers, Bobbin Case and Bulb Removin^j Machine from Cabinet

Performance Checklist.......................................................................... 66

Fashion* Aids................................................................................................. 68

Your Personal Measurement Chart ............................................................. 71

Index ............................................................................................................. 72

........................................................

..........................................

62 65

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1 Bobbin Winder

Tension Disc

principa! parts

10 Spool Pin

and Felt

11 Bobbin Winder

Switch and

Bobbin Holder

2 Pressure

Dial

3 Take-up

Lever

4 Presser-

Foot Lifter

5 Thread

Cutter

6 Needle Clamp

7 Presser

Foot

8 Needle Plate

9 Feed

---------

-------

■—^ w

1 Mi i

1 Us

1 U1

1 \ i

Ì ‘

12 Hand

Wheel

13 Flexi-Stitch

Disc Dial

14 Sewing Light

15 Slide Plate

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and what they do

1. Bobbin Winder Tension Disc regulates thread tension for bobbin winding.

2. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all-purpose

setting plus settings for extra-light and extra-heavy pressure, and for darning.

3. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.

4. Presser-Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and lower presser

foot. The high-lift position allows easy placement of bulky fabrics.

5. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience.

6. Needle Clamp holds single and twin needles and is designed to eliminate the

possibility of inserting needle backwards.

7. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. The feet snap off for quick removal.

8. Needle Plate lifts out for easy removal. Guidelines on right and left sides extend

to slide plate to help you keep seams straight.

9. Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.

10. Spool Pin and Felt. Pin holds thread spools of various sizes. Felt helps thread

unwind smoothly.

11. Bobbin Winder Switch and Bobbin Holder let you fill the bobbin with thread

quickly and easily.

12. Hand Wheel positions take-up lever and needle. Always turn it towards you.

13. Flexi-Stich Disc Dial sets the machine for/^/ex/-Sf/ic/7 disc sewing and varies

the balance oi Flexi-Stitch disc patterns in order to obtain desired pattern appearance. Dial must be set on 0 {off) position when not in use.

14. Sewing Light illuminates the sewing area.

15. Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replacement of the bobbin, and raises

and lowers the pin that holds the needle plate in place.

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PRINCIPAL PARTS (Continued)

16. Needle-Thread Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch,

thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

17. Needle-Thread Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial, regulate the amount

of tension on your needle thread.

18. Needle-Position Dial places needle in either left, center or right stitching

position. Use center position for straight stitching.

19. Disc-Release Dial releases pattern disc from disc holder for quick and easy

pattern changes. Always turn dial to the right.

20. Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig-zag stitching and positions needle

for straight stitching. Use i setting for straight stitching.

21. Stitch Length Selector and Buttonhole Dial allows for a variety of stitch

lengths. Including FINE for zig-zag satin stitching. Has special settings for button holing and F!exi‘Stitch disc sewing.

22. Reverse-Stitch Push Button has two separate functions. It lets you reverse

stitching direction and balance buttonhole stitch density.

16 Needle-Thread

18 Needle-Position

and Buttonhole Dial

Push Button

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23. Interchangeable Stitch Pattern Discs

provide for a variety of decorative uses as well as serving such practical purposes as sewing stretch fabrics. There are two kinds of discs: Fashion discs (black), and Flexi- Stitch discs (light colored). Each disc is numbered and its design is reproduced on its surface for quick recognition. Flexi-

Stitch disc patterns are shown in red on Fiexi-Stitch discs. Always keep a disc on

the disc holder, even when you are straight stitching.

24. Stitch Pattern Disc Holder holds any

one of the interchangeable stitch pattern discs. Always keep a disc on the holder,

even when straight stitching.

23 Interchangeable Stitch Pattern Disc

24 Stitch Pattern Disc Holder

25. Hand Wheel Disc engages hand wheel

to sewing mechanism. Disengage hand

wheel for bobbin winding by pressing© bobbin symbol on disc.

26. Transparent Bobbin shows thread supply

... is easily removed for bobbin winding.

27. Power and Light Switch turns on the

power and the sewing light simultaneously.

28.

Electrical Connections and Speed Controller are designed for convenience

and safety.

See instructions for connecting machine

and operating machine and controller on

page 10.

27 Power and Light

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accessories . . . and when to use them

The accessories that come with your Sty/ist sewing machine are designed tp help you do many kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. Additional accessories, listed on page 68 at the back of this instruction book, are available for purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.

GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT

AND NEEDLE PLATE The general purpose foot and the general

purpose needle plate are in place on the machine. Ideal for all utility sewing, these fittings can be used for either straight or zig-zag stitching. Always use them to- gether when alternating between straight and zig-zag stitching.

General-Purpose Needle Plate

StraightStitch

Foot

Straight-Stitch Needle Plate

Feed Cover Needle Plate

STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT AND NEEDLE PLATE

The straight stitch foot and the straight stitch needle plate are used when your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control.

Especially useful for:

• Precision stitching

scalloped edges, stitching, etc.

Stitching delicate or spongy fabrics, synthetics, and knits.

FEED COVER NEEDLE PLATE

The feed cover needle plate replaces the

general purpose needle plate (or straight stitch needle plate) when fabric feeding is not desired. Use it for button sewing

(pag^SB) and free-motion darning (page

of curved and

topstitching, edge

60).

Page 9

SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT

The special purpose foot is used with the general purpose needle plate for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use it for;

• Zig-zag satin stitching

• Ornamental stitching with Fiexi-Stitch

disc patterns

• Appliqué

• Twin-needle stitching

BUTTONHOLE FOOT

The buttonhole foot is used with the

general purpose needle plate to make

four-step, bar-tack buttonholes in fabrics

of light and medium weight. For instruc

tions, see page 37.

ZIPPER FOOT The zipper foot is used to place stitching

close to a raised edge. Thus, it is as useful for corded seams and tubular cording as it is for zipper insertion (page 47). It can

be fitted to either the right or the left side of the needle and may be used with the straight stitch or general purpose needle

plate.

Special Purpose Foot

Buttonhole Foot

BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE

The blindstitch hem guide is used with the general purpose foot to position the

hem fold for blindstitch hemming (page

49). To attach, simply loosen presser-foot screw and slip guide between screw and

presser-foot shank. Position guide so that

it clears both slide plate and presser-foot toe. Tighten screw.

Blindstitch Hem Guide

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ACCESSORIES (Continued)

Changing Presser Foot

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

The presser feet that are supplied with your machine snap on and off a common shank. To change the foot:

1. Raise presser foot lifter and turn handwheel toward you to raise needle

to its highest position.

2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as it will go) and then snap down to remove the foot.

3. Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so that the shank fits over the presser-foot pin.

4. Press down on presser-foot screw until foot snaps into place.

To remove the complete foot (with shank), as for free-motion darning or embroidery instructed on page 60, loosen the presser-foot screw and remove shank and foot together.

Needle Plate

Positioning Pin

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES

1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser-foot lifter (you do not need to remove the presser foot).

2. Open slide plate with downward finger pressure. Draw plate toward you, opening it all the way to raise the locking pin that holds the needle plate in place.

3. Place thumb under right side of needle plate; lift and withdraw plate to the right.

4. Insert new needle plate under locking

pin and over positioning pin.

5. Close slide plate to lower locking pin

and secure the needle plate.

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BOBBINS

Transparent drop-in bobbin, # 172336,

shows thread supply at a glance.

NEEDLES

• Style 2020 needles for all-purpose

sewing.

• Style 2045 ball-point (yellow band) needles for sewing knits and stretch

fabrics.

• Style 2028 twin needle for decora

tive twin-needle stitching.

Transparent Bobbin

IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing

machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER needles. You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle

package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabrics.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

The needle clamp is designed so that the

needle can only be inserted with the flat

side of the needle to the back. To change the needle:

1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,

loosen needle-clamp screw, and re move needle.

2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the

flat side of the needle to the back; push It up as far as it will go.

3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.

Regular Needle

(Yellow Band) Needle

Twin Needle

Ball-point

STITCH PATTERN DISCS

• Six Fa5/7/OA7 discs (black).

• Five Flexi-Stitch discs (white).

Turn to page 25 for Information on changing stitch pattern discs.

Fashion Disc

F/exi-Stitch Disc

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preliminary steps

CONNECTING THE MACHINE Before plugging in your machine, be sure

that the voltage and number of cycles

indicated on the plate under the hand

wheel conform to your electrical power supply.

Push the machine plug into the receptacle

at the right end of the machine bed. Then

connect the power-line plug to your

electrical outlet.

OPERATING MACHINE AND CONTROLLER

To turn on both machine and sewing

light, press power and light switch to ON position (red bar on switch will be

visible). To turn off machine and light,

press switch at red bar to OFF position.

CAUTION: We recommend that you

turn off the power and light switch before changing needles, presser feet, and needle

plates and when leaving the machine

unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally

pushing the speed controller.

To run the machine, press the speed

controller. The harder you press, the

faster the machine will sew.

To stop the machine from sewing, remove pressure from speed controller.

Speed Controller

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choosing needle and thread

The needle and thread you choose selection. Refer to it before starting will depend upon the fabric being a sewing project. Be sure to use the stitched. The table below is a same size and type of thread in both practical guide to needle and thread needle and bobbin.

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE

Needles

Fabric

Thread

Type

Size

DELICATE —tulle, chiffon,

fine lace, organza

LU3 HTWEIG HT — batiste,

organdy, jersey, voile, taffeta, crepe, chiffon, velvet, plastic film

MEDIUM WEIGHT —gingham,

percale, piqué, linen, chintz, faille, satin, fine corduroy, velvet, suitings, deep-pile fabrics, vinyl

MEDIUM HEAVY —gabardine, tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings, drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile fabrics

H EAVY — overcoatings, denim, upholstery fabrics, canvas

Fine polyester, nylon, and cotton thread

50 mercerized cotton "A” silk Polyester thread Cotton-wrapped polyester

50 mercerized cotton 60 cotton “A” silk Polyester thread Cotton-wrapped polyester

Heavy-duty mercerized cotton 40 to 60 cotton Polyester thread

Heavy-duty mercerized cotton 24 to 40 cotton Polyester thread

STYLE

2020

(15 X 1)

STYLE

2020

(15x1)

STYLE

2020

(15 X 1)

STYLE

2020

(15 X 1)

STYLE

2020

(15 X 1)

ALL WEIG HTS — decorative straight stitch topstitching

in woven fabrics

KNIT, WOVEN STRETCH

and ELASTIC FABRICS —

polyester doubleknit, spandex,

nylon tricot, ciré tricot, jersey,

panné velvet

LEATHER — suede, kidskin.

capeskin, lambskin, lined

leathers

LIGHT and MEDIUM

WEIGHTS — decorative

twin-needle stitching

In woven fabrics

t Use with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.

"D" silkf

(Buttonhole twist)

"A" nylon 50 mercerized cotton

"A” silk Cotton-wrapped polyester

50 mercerized cotton

Polyester thread "A” silk Cotton-wrapped polyester

50.mercerized cotton

STYLE

2020

(15x1)

STYLE

2045

Bail-Point

(Yellow Band)

STYLE

2032

(15x2)

STYLE

2028

(twin)

16 or 18

Page 14

Press Here

for Bobbin Winding

threading your

sewing machine

Like all sewing machines that produce

what is called a “lockstitch", your Stylist

sewing machine sews with two threads.

The upper thread comes from the spool

and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the

bobbin, the small transparent spool that you wind using the machine. It is best to wind the bobbin before threading the

needle.

Removing Bobbin

THE BOBBIN THREAD Winding the Bobbin

• Press hand wheel disc at bobbin

symbol .

• Open slide plate. Draw plate toward

you to make bobbin accessible.

• Lift out the bobbin and close slide plate

to make sure needle plate Is secure while winding.

•

Page 15

Tension Disc

• Place thread spool on spool pin over felt. Lead thread around bobbin winder tension disc and through small hole in

bobbin (from the inside).

Pass Thread Through

Hole in Bobbin

• Place bobbin on holder and turn bobbin winder switch to WIND.

• Hold thread as shown and start the

machine. Cut off thread end when

winding is well under way.

• When required amount of thread has

been wound (winding will stop by itself when bobbin is full), stop the machine and cut connecting thread.

• Turn bobbin winder switch to SEW

and remove bobbin from holder.

•

• Press hand wheel disc for sewing.

Bobbin Winder Switch

Press Here

for Sewing

Page 16

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

1. Open slide plate. Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in direction shown, and put bobbin in bobbin case.

2. Pull thread into notch, draw it under

tension spring and back into slot.

3. Draw about three inches of thread

diagonally across the bobbin.

4. Close slide plate allowing thread to

enter slot between the needle plate and slide plate.

Page 17

THE NEEDLE THREAD

Lead thread under right guide, up, and into tension discs

Lead thread over

spring and under left guide

Tension

Discs

Right Guide

Left Guide

Threading the needle

1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever to its highest position, and raise

presser foot to release the tension discs.

2. Lead thread through all points as shown, making sure to:

• Snub thread as illustrated while guiding

thread into tension discs.

• Thread tension discs as illustrated.

• Thread take-up lever from back to front, guiding thread down over top of lever and then up Into eyelet.

•

Allow spring to return to its

normal up position and con

tinue threading the machine.

• Thread needle from front to back, drawing about four inches of thread through eye of needle.

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RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD

Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, you will need to raise the bobbin thread through the needle hole in the needle plate.

1. Hold needle thread lightly with left

hand and turn hand wheel slowly

toward you so that needle enters hole in needle plate.

2. Continue turning hand wheel and

holding needle thread until needle rises. Tighten your hold on the needle thread and bring up bobbin thread in a loop.

3, Open the loop with your fingers.

4. Place both needle and bobbin threads under presser foot, and draw to back

of machine.

You are now ready to sew

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• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial; O (Off)

• Needle Position : (center)

• Stitch Width : i

• Stitch Length : To suit fabric

• Straight Stitch Needle Plate or

General Purpose Needle Plate

• Straight Stitch Foot or

General Purpose Foot

Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial Off

Before you move the selectors to set your sewing machine for straight stitching, turn the hand wheel toward you until the

needle Is above the needle plate.

SETTING THE MACHINE

• Turn Flexi-Stitch disc dial to off

position 0.

• Move needle position selector to

center^.

• Set stitch width selector on i .

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Best results will be obtained if you use

the straight stitch foot and needle plate.

However, the general purpose foot and

needle plate may also be used.

STARTING TO SEW

• Place needle and bobbin threads under presser foot and draw to back of machine.

JL J

Needle Position

Stitch Width

• Position the needle In the fabric where

stitching should start.

• Lower the presser foot and start the

machine.

To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics adjust stitch length, pressure and thread tension as Instructed on the following pages.

For information on straight stretch

stitching turn to page 40.

Straight Stitch Accessories

Page 20

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

adjusting selectors for your fabric

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length selector controls the

length of stitches. The numbers around the edge of the selector dial express stitch length in stitches per inch; the higher the number, the shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches ^re best for lightweight

fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. The

FINE area is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching.

Setting Selector

• Turn dial so that the stitch length

desired is positioned under the arrow head ▼ on the control panel.

• To shorten the stitch, turn the dial

clockwise to a higher number.

• To lengthen the stitch, turn the dial

counterclockwise to a lower number.

For reverse stitching, press the reversestitch push button (located In the center of the dial) in as far as It will go and hold in place (the button can be pushed In while the machine is sewing). Release pressure on the push button to return to forward stitching.

Stitch Length Dial

{For detailed instructions on adjusting the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching, see page 29.)

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ADJUSTING PRESSURE

Pressure Dial

To Increase

Dial

The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct pressure is important because it enables the fabric to feed smoothly and evenly, without being marred. The NORM (normal) setting

is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics of different weights and textures. Intermediate notched settings, above and below NORM (normal), are also provided. When you need extra control, regulate the setting for heavier or lighter pressure to suit the fabric

being sewn. When darning without an embroidery hoop, set the dial at the lowest

setting, DARN. See page 59 for instructions.

Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.

• To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward MAX

(maximum).

• To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward DARN.

• For darning, set dial on DARN.

Page 22

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

Needle-Thread Tension

THREAD ▼ TENSION

|2.iS

......

rnrnrTT^iHrnrt

THREAD ▼ TENSION

L13 4 SJ

rsl

JDrmU

REGULATING THREAD TENSION Correct tension is important because too

much or too little will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a

test sample with the fabric and thread

you plan to use and examine it. A perfect stitch will have the needle and bobbin threads locked between the two layers of

fabric with no loops on top or bottom and

no puckers.

Increase Decrease

Needle-Thread Tension The tension dial regulates the degree of

tension on your needle thread. Set it according to the type of thread and fabric you use. The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

If the stitches in your test sample look

loose, increase needle-thread tension. If the fabric puckers, decrease tension.

To increase tension, turn dial to

higher number.

To decrease tension, turn dial to

lower number.

Page 23

sewing a seam

PIN BASTING Pin basting is a time-saver and can be

used when you sew easy-to-handle fabric. Use fine pins and place them :

• On top of the fabric (never on the

underside in contact with the feed).

• At right angles to the stitching line.

• Just nipping into the fabric at the stitching line (never extending under

both sides of the presser foot).

STARTING A SEAM

1. Set stitch length selector for desired

number of stitches per inch.

2. With presser foot up, align fabric with

appropriate seam guideline on needle

plate (as described on the following

page). Position needle in fabric about

i inch from the back edge.

3. Lower presser foot. Backstitch to the

edge of the fabric for reinforcement

by pushing in the reverse-stitch push button located in the center of the

stitch length selector dial. Hold the

button until the stitches reach the edge

of the fabric and then release for forward stitching.

Page 24

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

KEEPING THE SEAM STRAIGHT

.3/8'

.1/2'

•3/4"

5/8'

As you stitch, use one of the numbered lines on the needle plate as a guide for keeping the seams straight. Numbers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch, from the needle. If you want a f-inch seam, for example, keep the right-hand edge of your fabric on the number 5 guideline;

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS To turn a square corner |-inch from the

fabric edge, you need not measure or mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the slide plate.

Pivoting at Corner

•. Line up your fabric with right or left guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch seam, slowing speed as you approach

^corner.

• Stop stitching, with the needle down, when the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the cornering crosslines on the slide plate.

• Raise presser foot and turn fabric on needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.

•

• Lower the presser foot and stitch in new direction.

Page 25

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING

THE FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in

front of the presser foot. Some fabrics,

however, require support while being stitched. Filmy sheers, panne velvet, and tricots, for example, need to be held taut

in front and back of the presser foot while being sewn.

For information on sewing knit and

stretch fabrics with zig-zag stitching, refer to page 30.

CURVED SEAMS

1. Use a short stitch length for elasticity and strength. For example, if you

use 12 stitches per inch for straight

seams, select 15 to 20 per inch to stitch curved seams in the same fabric.

2. For the greatest accuracy, use the

straight stitch foot and needle plate.

Supporting Fabric

Page 26

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

1. Stitch to the fabric edge. Backstitch i inch to reinforce the end of the

seam by pushing in the reverse-stitch

push button and then releasing.

2. Turn hand wheel toward you to

bring needle to its highest point.

3. Raise presser foot and remove fabric

by drawing it to the back and left.

4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear

of presser bar.

Page 27

how patterns are

produced

All stitch patterns are produced from

interchangeable discs that are inserted into the machine. Fashion discs (black)

control side-to-side needle movement and produce basic zig-zag stitches. Flexi-Stitch discs (light colored) control

needle and fabric movement and produce a variety of decorative and utility stitches, including stitches that stretch. Instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these stitches begin on page 30. Informa tionen stretch stitching begins on page 39.

CHANGING FASHION AND

FLEXI-ST/TCH DISCS

Make sure the needle is above the presser

foot.

Releasing Pattern Disc

1. Set stitch width dial at j.

2. Set Flexi-Stitch dial at 0.

3. Turn disc release dial all the way to

the right until it clicks, Indicating pattern disc is released.

4. Open disc cover and remove disc.

5. Position new pattern disc on holder,

aligning slot in disc with locating pin of disc holder. Press down on pattern disc until disc is seated.

6. Set stitch width selector and Flexi-

Stitch disc control dial on desired settings. See pages 26 and 30.

Always keep a stitch pattern disc on the holder, even when you are straight stitching.

Page 28

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)

FASHION discs

The six interchangeable Fashion discs (black) that come with your

machine produce the stitches illustrated below.

FASHION DISC PATTERNS

Circled numbers indicate Fashion disc numbers.

0 © © ©

BUndstitch. Indispensable for finishing hems and seam edges and for zipper in sertions.

Straight Stitch Scallop. Pro duces tiny, evenly spaced scallops for faced edge finishes.

Arrowhead Stitch. Ideal for

motifs and decorative borders.

TO USE A FASHION DISC

• Insert disc in machine.

• Set Flexi-Stitch disc control dial in off position 0.

• Adjust needle position, stitch width, stitch length and

needle-thread tension as instructed on following pages.

Domino Stitch. A decora tive pattern for single- and twin-needle work.

Walls of Troy. An inter esting pattern for decor ative stitching.

Crescent Stitch. Produces

perfectly formed satinstitch scallops for a decor ative edge or surface trim.

Page 29

ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN

To produce the stitch pattern of a Fashion disc or the basic zig-zag pattern of Flexi-Stitch discs, 201, 202, 232, move the stitch width selector dial from the

straight-stitch setting i to any zig-zag setting to the right. Stitch width is increased as the dial is moved to the right

ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT Most of your basic zig-zag stitching will

be done in center (¿) needle position. Left (l^) and right (Jj^) settings are used

for sp^ial stitch placement as in button

sewing and twin-needle work.

Adjusting Stitch Width

ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION

Basic zig-zag stitching requires less needle-thread tension than straight stitch

ing. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust the tension properly. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric without causing the fabric to pucker.

If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the dial to a lower number.

Before moving stitch width and needle position selectors, make sure needle is above fabric and stitch length dial is not on a buttonhole setting.

Setting for Single-Needle

Work

Adjusting Stitch Placement

Correct

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

Page 30

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH Any stitch length setting from 6 to 25 will

give you an open zig-zag stitch of the basic zig-zag stitch pattern you select. The lower the number, the more open, or farther apart, your stitches will be. The FINE stitch area, between 0 and 25 on the dial is used for adjusting zig-zag satin stitching (see next page for specific instructions).

When using Flexi-Stitch discs 201, 202 and 232 for basic zig-zag stitch patterns be sure the FfexFStitch disc dial is in off position 0.

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Turn to page 19 under "Straight Stitching" for instructions on adjusting pressure.

For information on choosing accessories refer to pages 6 and 7 and to detailed instructions for sewing with zig-zag stitch patterns included In the section called "Sewing the Professional Way" that starts on page 39.

General Purpose

Needle Plate

General Purpose

Foot

Special Purpose

Foot

Page 31

satin stitching

Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig-zag stitches that form a smooth, satin like surface, is useful for both practical and decorative work.

When you wish to produce a satin stitch,

for appliqué or bar tacks, for example,

make a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp lawn or organdy Is suitable for this purpose.

ACCESSORIES AND SELECTOR SETTINGS

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: O

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: Super Zig-Zag 201 or

Fashion Disc: Desired Pattern

• Needle Position : ^ (center)

• Stitch Width • ^ to ^

• Stitch Length: FINE (25 or above)

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• Special Purpose Foot

• Pressure: NORM

Adjusting Stitch Length

1. Turn stitch length selector dial to 25

(the beginning of FINE area).

2. Run the machine at a slow speed.

3. Gradually turn the stitch length dial clockwise until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth surface.

Adjusting Thread Tension Satin stitching requires less tension than

straight stitching or open zig-zag stitching. Furthermore, the wider the stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread must be. Notice the stitching on your sample. If

the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-

thread tension by turning the tension dial to a lower number.

THREAD ▼ TENSION

io i 2^

nrir^ii II 11 n-mn

Incorrect

Adjusting Thread Tension

Correct

Page 32

FLEXI-STITCH discs

Five interchangeable Flexi-Stitch discs (light colored) come with your

machine. Each produces one or more Flexi-Stitch disc patterns and several produce a basic zig-zag stitch pattern as well. Flexi-Stitch disc designs are shown in red on each disc.

PATTERNS PRODUCED BY FLEXI-STITCH DISCS

FLEXI-STITCH DISC

PATTERNS

>¿7

Y-’’

201

202

232

Boxed Numbers Indicate Flexi-Stitch Disc Numbers

FLEXI-STITCH DISC PATTERNS

201 201

202

232 242

Straight Stretch Stitch (Super Ziz-Zag Disc). For stretchable seams in knit and stretch fabrics. Ric-Rac Stitch (Super Zig-Zag Disc). For decorative applications and heavy-duty stretch sewing.

Feather Stitch. Appropriate for fagoting, embroidering and quilting. Overedge Stretch Stitch. For seams that are overedged and reinforced in

one operation.

Multi-Stretch St/tch. Ideal for finishing hem and facing edges.

f242l

243

BASIC ZIG-ZAG

PATTERNS

201

202

1 1

|232|

243

Slant Overedge Stitch. Lets you seam and overedge in one operation. Also ideal for hemstitching, picot edging and applique.

BASIC ZIG-ZAG PATTERNS

I 2011 Plain Zig-Zag Stitch (Super Zig-Zag Disc). For buttonholing, button

_____ sewing, making bar tacks and appliqueing.

I 2021 Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag Stitch. For mending, joining and reinforcing without

bulk.

232

Overedge Stitch.*?ox making a flexible overedge seam finish.

To Produce a Flexi-Stitch Disc Pattern

• Insert Flexi-Stitch disc in machine.

• Set Flexi-Stitch disc and stitch length dials on red symbols.

• Adjust stitch placement, stitch width, thread tension, and stitch balance as

instructed on following pages.

• Sew at moderate speed.

To Produce a Basic Zig-Zag Pattern

with a Flexi-Stitch Disc

• Insert Flexi-Stitch disc in machine.

• Set Flexi-Stitch disc dial on off position 0 and adjust selectors as when

using a Fashion disc. See pages 27, 28 and 29.

Page 33

Adjusting Width of Design

To produce a Flexi-Stitch disc pattern, the stitch width selector must be,moved from the straight-stitch setting j to a^ setting from ^ to § . Stitch width is increased as the dial is moved to the right.

Adjusting Stitch Placement

Flexi-Stitch disc patterns can be sewn in either L(left), (center) or (right) needle positions^HSenter needle position

is recommended.

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

Some Flexi-Stitch disc patterns require more needle-thread tension than others. Make a test sample with the fabric, thread and presser foot you plan to use so that you can adjust tension to suit the stitch you have chosen.

For your test sample, set the tension dial on 3 or 4. Notice the stitching; if the fabric puckers, decrease tension by turning the

dial to a lower number. Sew at moderate speed.

Adjusting Width of Design

Special I Special Stitch I Stitch Placement Most Used Placement Only Setting Only

Adjusting Stitch Placement

THREAD ▼ TENS i ON

i2 '¿ 4 sS

CIOrxTl II

-IT

................IT.

Before moving needle position and stitch

width selectors make sure needle is above

fabric and the stitch length dial is OFF buttonhole settings.

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

Page 34

FLEXI-STITCH DISCS (Continued)

Red Bar

Stitch Length Dial

Incorrect

<<<<<<<<<<<W<<<<

Turn Dial to Right to Bring

Stitches Together

SETTING STITCH LENGTH DIAL

When you use a Flexi-Stitch disc pattern, stitch length is controlled with a single

setting of the stitch length dial. No further adjustment should be made.

To set turn dial until red bar* is centered under the arrowhead ▼ on the control panel.

NOTE : Stitching cannot be reversed

when the Flexi-Stitch disc dial is on red Flexi-Stitch disc setting.

Use numerical setting for stitch length adjustment when using a Fiexi-Stitch disc to produce a basic zig-zag stitch

pattern.

Correct

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE

You may need to adjust the Fiexi-Stitch disc dial when using a Fiexi-Stitch disc pattern in order to achieve the correct pattern appearance. Before you move the

Fiexi-Stitch disc dial from its neutral

position (red bar | centered under

arrowhead ▼), make a test sample. If adjustment is required, stitch slowly and

move the dial as you sew.

Incorrect

Turn Dial to Left to

Separate Stitches

Adjusting Stitch Balance

Correct

• Turn the dial to the right to bring

stitches of the pattern together.

• Turn the dial to the left to separate

stitches of the pattern.

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Turn to page 19 under "Straight Stitching"

for instructions on adjusting pressure.

For information on choosing accessories

refer to detailed instructions for sewing

with Fiexi-Stitch disc patterns included in the section called "Sewing the Pro fessional Way", which starts on page 39.

Page 35

By using a twin needle, you can produce two parallel, closely spaced, decorative lines of stitching simultaneously. You can use either one or two colors of thread, and you can choose either a straightstitch, zig-zag stitch, or a Fashion disc pattern.

preparation

SETTING THE MACHINE

F/exi-Stitch Disc Dial Off

f—

----------

L i. J

Straight Stitching

• Flexi-St/tch Disc Dial: O (Off)

• Needle Position : JL o'" only

• Stitch Width : i

• Stitch Length: Optional

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

Zig-Zag Stitching

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial : O (Off)

• Fashion Disc : All Patterns or Super Zig-Zag Disc (for Plain Zig-Zag)

• Needle Position: jL^ only

• Stitch Width : See illustration at right

• Stitch Length : Optional

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot (Open Stitching)

• Special Purpose Foot (Satin Stitching)

Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial Off

Super Zig-Zag or Fashion

Disc Disc

Left On I

Maximum Stitch Width

X À

Page 36

TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING (Continued)

Use SINGER twin needle. Style 2028 (size 14).

INSERTING THE TWIN NEEDLE

Before inserting the twin needle, make sure you are using the general purpose needle plate and that the needle position dial is set at (left), and the stitch

width does not exceed the settings shown on page 33.

To insert the twin needle, simply raise

needle to its highest point and loosen the

needle-clamp screw. Remove the single needle and insert the twin needle in Its place. Tighten needle-clamp screw securely.

threading for twin-needle stitching

For best results, use No. 50 mercerized cotton thread.

Thread the machine In the same manner as for single-needle stitching except:

• Be sure that threads are separated by center tension disc as they pass

around tension assembly.

Page 37

buttons

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Super Zig-Zag Disc: 201

• Needle Position: (left)

• Stitch Width: See Illustrations at Right

• Feed-Cover Needle Plate

• General Purpose or Special Purpose

Foot

Flat buttons can be sewn on quickly and easily using the plain zig-zag stitch pattern. The space between the holes in the button determines stitch width set tings. For buttons with standard hole spacing, use settings | and ^ as shown. For buttons ,with unusual hole spacing, use setting | and increase or decrease the width (^) as necessary.

Attach feed-cover needle plate (see page

8), and turn Flexi-Stitch disc dial to 0.

ATTACHING A BUTTON

1. Set stitch width at j and needle

position at L (left)- Position button

under foot and lower needle Into center of left hole by turning hand wheel toward you. Lower foot. Turn

hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of button and is just above the foot.

2. Set stitch width at zig-zag (|) setting (see Step 2). Check stitch width by turning hand wheel slowly toward you; the needle should enter the right hole of the button. Take six or more zig-zag stitches to attach button. End on left side.

3. To fasten stitching, return to stitch

width i and take three or four stitches.

Replace feed-cover needle plate with the

general-purpose needle plate when work is completed.

NOTE: For best results, and when using buttons less than one inch in diameter, the Button Sewing Foot is recommended

(see page 68).

Page 38

Horizontal Placement

on Crosswise Grain

Vertical Placement on

Lengthwise Grain

buttonholes

BUTTONHOLE POSITION

Accurate guidelines are essential to keep

buttonholes a uniform distance from faced edge of garment, evenly spaced, and on grain of fabric. For center closures, place guidelines as follows:

1. Mark center line of garment as

indicated on your pattern. This guide line can be hand basted and should

follow a lengthwise fabric thread.

2. Mark a position guideline for each

buttonhole.

• Horizontal buttonholes are placed to

extend ^ inch beyond center-line basting of garment. Horizontal guide lines for buttonholes should follow a crosswise thread of fabric and, if basted, be longer than finished length of buttonhole. Determine length of buttonhole (as described below) and mark ends of each buttonhole vertically.

Button

Opening

Length of

Button

Opening

Buttonhole

Length Guide

Markings

Button

Opening

Buttonhole

Stitching

• Vertical buttonholes are placed so that center-line basting of garment Is in

center of buttonholes. Determine buttonhole length and mark ends of each buttonhole horizontally across center line and use center-line basting as a buttonhole guide when stitching.

BUTTONHOLE LENGTH

First, decide how long button opening

must be. Then, add VW i^ich to measure ment for each bar tack (closing stitches at each end of buttonhole). To find

length of button opening, cut a slit in a scrap of fabric the diameter of button you intend to use. Increase length of opening until button slips through easily.

Page 39

FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLES

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial; O (Off)

• Super Zig-Zag Disc: 201

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• Buttonhole Foot

• Stitch-Density Balance: Neutral

The four dial settings for buttonholing are located on the stitch length selector dial. As you turn dial for each step, your

machine Is set for correct needle position, stitch width, and stitch length, as well as stitching direction for that step. You need

not turn fabric during buttonholing.

Always make a test buttonhole on a

sample of your fabric. Be sure to duplicate thickness of garment and include inter facing. if the two lines of stitching in your sample are of unequal density, see page

38. Raise the needle above the fabric before

turning the buttonhole dial.

PROCEDURE

Place work under buttonhole foot, align center marking of buttonhole with center line on foot, and align end marking of

buttonhole with horizontal line on foot.

Do not lower the needle.

Step 1 : Side Stitching Turn buttonhole dial clockwise to step 1

(aligning it with arrowhead above dial).

Position needle in fabric at point A.

Lower foot and stitch to end of buttonhole

(point B). End marking should be aligned with horizontal line on foot.

I I

Starting Position

Step 2: Bar Tack

Raise needle above fabric by turning hand wheel toward you.

Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise

to step 2. Take four or five stitches

(point C).

Page 40

BUTTONHOLES (Continued)

Step 3

Step 3: Side Stitching

Raise the needle above the fabric.

Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise to step 3. Stitch to within a few stitches of the end of the buttonhole (point D).

Step 4: Bar Tack

Raise the needle above the fabric.

Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise

to step 4. Take four or five stitches

(point E).

For a heavier buttonhole, stitch around the

buttonhole twice. When stitching the

second time, follow the same procedure

as for stitching once around. It is not necessary to reposition your garment.

Remove the work, draw threads to the underside, tie, and trim. Use a pair of small, sharp scissors to cut button opening. Insert blade in center of button hole cutting space and cut from this point In either direction. Place a pin across cutting space at each end of buttonhole to protect bar tack stitching.

Incorrect Correct

Stitch Balance

Arrowhead

Stitch-Density

Balance Line

in Neutral Position

Push Button

Stitch Balance Control

BALANCING THE TWO LINES OF STITCHING

On some kinds of fabrics, there may be a difference in the density of the stitches on the right and left sides of the buttonhole. This is easily adjusted by turning the push button to balance the stitching. A very slight turn will produce a noticeable change.

• Begin with the stitch-density balance

line in a neutral position (aligned with arrowhead above dial).

• Turn the push button to the left to

increase the density of the stitches on

the left and decrease on the right.

• Turn the push button to the right to

increase the density of the stitches on

the right and decrease on the left.

When buttonholing is completed, bring

stitch-density balance line back to its neutral position, if it has been altered.

Page 41

sewing knit and stretch fabric

When you sew stretch fabric, doubleknit, tricot and jersey, choose one of the stitch patterns that sew stretch into the seam. A wide variety of different stitches are available so you can choose just the right one for your fabric and sewing job. The table below will help you make the right selection.

Remember to use a ball-point needle (Style# 2045) in the machine

when you attach elastic or sew a knit or stretch fabric.

STRETCH STITCH CHART

Stitch

Straight Stretch Stitch

Super Zig-Zag Disc 201

Overedge Stretch Stitch

F/exi~Stitch Disc 232 or

Slant Overedge Stitch

Flexi-Stitch Disc 243

Multi-Stretch Stitch

Flexi-Stitch Disc 242

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Stitch

Flexi-Stitch Disc 202

Plain Zig-Zag

Super Zig-Zag Disc 201

Where to Use

Plain seams that s-t-r-e-t-c-h (press-open or closed construction) — Crotch seaming — Sleeve and gusset insertion — Flexible topstitching — Swim and ski suit construction — Attaching patch pockets— Repairing and reinforcing seams.

Overedge seams that stretch in sportswear, knitwear, slacks, and swimsuits.

Overcast seams in bulky knits and terry cloth —

Sweater construction — Attaching elastic and stretch lace — Seam, hem and facing edge finishes.

Attaching elastic and stretch lace — Lingerie

and swimsuit construction — Girdle seams —

Seam finishes— Casings and waistband finishes.

All-purpose stretch sewing — Lingerie seams — Attaching stay tapes — Seam finishing — Edge finishing — Attaching stretch lace.

Ric-Rac Stitch

Super Zig-Zag Disc 201

¡ Blindstitch

C Fashion Disc 3

Feather Stitch

Flexi-Stitch Disc 202

Heavy-duty, all-purpose stretch

Reversible topstitch applications.

Flexible blindstitch hemming — Overcast seam finishing — Shell hems In lingerie — Ladder seams — Blindstitch zipper insertion.

Swimsuit seams — Attaching stretch lace

Lingerie and girdle seams.

sewing —

Page 42

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC (Continued)

PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS

• Flexi’Stitch Disc Dial: Red I

• Super Zig-Zag Disc 201

• Needle Position : (center)

• Stitch Width: j (straight stitch)

• Stitch Length Dial: Red *

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

Straight Stretch Stitching

• Speed: Moderate

When you use the straight stretch stitch to seam knit stretch, and elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and

strength are built in as the seam is

being sewn. Because it is equally useful for closed or press-open seam

construction and will not break thread under stress, the straight stretch stitch is also good for seams that receive an unusual amount of strain when worn. For example: crotch seaming, sleeve insertion, and construction seams in sports wear and bathing suits.

Procedure

1. Make a test sample to determine

thread tension and stitch balance.

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING

FABRIC

Be sure to insert a bail-point

(yellow band) needle in machine if you are stitching a synthetic knit fabric, and increase presser bar pressure If necessary.

2. Stitch and guide fabric as you do for plain seams stitched with the regular straight stitch, letting the machine make the back-and-

forth stitches that give

s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. If

fabric has an unusual amount of

elasticity, it should be stitched under tension as instructed below under "Guiding and Supporting Fabric."

3. Press seam as when using the regular straight stitch.

Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Simply increase presser bar pressure and let the machine move the fabric to make the stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam.

Some fabrics, however, require support while being stitched.

• For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet and similar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension by holding fabric taut in front and back of the presser foot as you sew.

Page 43

ATTACHING ELASTIC

Elastic will remain stretchable when it is attached with the multi-stitch zig-zag. The flexible joining produced by this stitch allows elastic banding to be stitched under, over, or between fabric

layers, making it particularly useful in the

construction of lingerie and swimsuits.

• flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: 202

• Needle Position : (center)

• Stitch Width: ^ or ^ (maximum)

• Stitch Length: About 20

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

LADDER SEAMS

Attaching Elastic with

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

A ladder seam made with blindstitching

is both functional and decorative. Partic

ularly appropriate for knit and stretch

fabrics, the blindstitch provides stretch

able, decorative construction seams, and

edge finishes for necklines, pockets and

collars In sportswear and swimwear.

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Fashion Disc: 3 (Blindstitch)

• Needle Position: ^ (center)

• Stitch Width: ^ (maximum)

• Stitch Length: 10 to 15

• Thread Tension: Light

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

After stitching, open seam by pulling

fabric back on opposite sides of seam to

produce ladder effect. Press seam allow

ances of construction seams to one side.

Seam allowances of enclosed seams are pressed together in the usual way after

seam has been opened.

Blindstitching Ladder Seams

Opening Seam to Form

Ladder Effect

Page 44

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRICS (Continued)

OVEREDGED SEAMS

Seams in knit and stretch fabric can be joined and finished in one operation with the overedge stretch stitch {Flexi-Stitch

Disc 232). Two different methods may be

used. Method# 1 (overedging) is recom

mended for firm fabrics in garments where a ¿-inch seam allowance is adequate.

Method# 2 (mock overedging) is most appropriate for bulky knits and fabrics that have a tendency to curl or fray and should be used where a wider seam allowance is needed. Make a test sample to help you decide which method is best for your fabric and garment. Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test.

Remember to use a bail-point {yellow band). Style 2045, Size 14 needle in your machine if you are sewing a synthetic knit.

Method 1—Overedging

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial : Red I

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: 232 (Overedge Stretch) —Method# 1

• Fiexi-Stitch Disc: 232 (Overedge Stretch) or 242(Multi-Stretch) —Method# 2

• Needle Position : (center)

• Stitch Width: ^ (maximum)

• Stitch Length Dial: Red ■■

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

• Speed: Moderate

Method #1 — Overedging

1. Cut and fit the garment allowing for a

f-inch seam allowance. Baste seam line,

2. Trim seam edges evenly to a scant

i inch from seamline basting.

the Multi-Stretch Stitch

3. Place trimmed seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seamline and the zig-zag stitches fall over the seam edge.

Page 45

Method #2 — Mock Overedging

When it is not practical to overedge a seam because of the construction of the garment or the fabric, a mock overedge finish can be applied. This finish is appropriate for bulky knits, fine tricots, and fabrics that curl

or fray.

1. Make a test sample before beginning garment construction

to help you decide which stitch

Is best for your fabric. Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test, and use a bail-point (yellow band)

FINISHES FOR HEMS AND FACINGS

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: Red

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: 242 (Multi-Stretch

Stitch)

• Needle Position: (center)

• Stitch Width: g (maximum)

• Stitch Length Dial: Red —

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

needle if you are sewing a synthetic knit fabric.

2. Cut and fit the garment allowing for a f-inch seam allowance.

Baste seamline.

3. Place seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the seamline basting.

4. Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric to produce a

narrow seam edge. When the

seam supports the garment, omit the trimming step.

Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fabrics will be less apt to press through and mark when given a flat edge finish.

Edge finishing with the multi-stretch stitch {Flexi-Stitch Disc 242) eliminates the bulk of turned-in edges and retains fabric flexibility. The multi-stitch zig-zag

stitch, produced with Flexi-Stitch Disc 202, may also be used.

1. Make a test sample.

2. Place stitching close to hem or facing

edge.

3. Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line If necessary.

Applying Facing Finish

Finished Hem Edge

Page 46

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC (Continued)

LINGERIE SEAMS

To make seams in lingerie durable and flexible, use a combination of straight and zig-zag stitching. Make a test sample to help you decide which of the following

methods is most appropriate for your

fabric and garment. Method # 1 is

particularly suitable for |-inch bias seams in woven fabric and Method #2 is best

for seams in nylon tricot.

Method # 1

For a f-inch seam:

• Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch

width at i ) on wrong side of fabric.

For a 5/8-inch Seam

For a Narrow Seam

• Press both seam allowances in the same

direction.

• From the right side, topstitch with narrow zig-zag stitching, letting needle alternately enter seamline and seam thickness.

Method# 2

For a narrow seam:

• Cut the fabric for a |-inch seam

allowance.

• Straight-stitch seamline on wrong side of fabric, using a regular or stretch stitch.

• Place a line of medium-width, open

zig-zag stitching close to the straight stitching. (Stitch width medium to

medium-wide; stitch length 20.)

• Trim away excess fabric close to

stitching to produce a narrow seam

edge.

Page 47

hints on sewing special fabrics

LEATHER-LOOK VINYL t

• Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching.

• Stitch with a long stitch (8 to 10 straight stitches per inch). A short stitch may cut the fabric.

• Sew with a steady, even pace and stitch accurately. Seams cannot be

ripped out without leaving needle marks in the fabric.

• Topstitching holds seams and garment edges smooth and flat and adds a decorative note.

• The shiny side of some vinyls tends to stick to metal surfaces. Use a strip of tissue paper between the fabric and metal machine surfaces to prevent this.

• Reinforce button and buttonhole areas with Interfacing. Bound buttonholes are the best choice for vinyls with

knit backing.

• For sharp points on collars and lapels, take one or two stitches diagonally

across the point to allow enough space to smoothly enclose the seam edge.

Across the Point

CIRÉ (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot) f

• Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting

to hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching.

• Stitch accurately; seams cannot be ripped out because needle marks

remain in the fabric.

• Sew seams under light tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front

and back of needle.

• Stitch ciré taffeta with a fairly long stitch (8 to 10 straight stitches per

Inch) and use an enclosed edge finish for seams and hems.

• Stitch ciré knits with a medium-length stitch (12 straight stitches per

inch) and use a fine bail-point needle.

• Machine-worked buttonholes (as well as bound buttonholes) can be made in ciré fabric. Always use an interfacing and make sure the close

zig-zag stitches do not cut the fabric.

fThe Even Feed Foot (see page 68) is especially designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

Page 48

HINTS ON SEWING SPECIAL FABRICS (Continued)

DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur) t

• Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place pins at close intervals at right angles

to the seam line. Pins with colored

heads are easy to see and remove.

• Sew In direction of nap.

• Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch (8 to 10 straight stitches per inch) and use polyester/cotton thread in a size 14 or 16 Style# 2020 needle.

• As seam is stitched, smooth pile away from seam allowance with a darning

needle or upholstery pin.

• After stitching seams with a f-inch seam allowance, use small hand scissors to shear pile from entire seam allowance to reduce bulk.

• Stitch ¿-inch pre-shrunk tape into

neckline and shoulder seams for sta bility and reinforcement or stitch with

the straight stretch stitch.

• Leather and leather-look fabrics com

plement fur fabrics; use them for bound buttonholes and easy button loops.

Deep-Pile Fabrics

• Coat hems are less bulky if they are narrow and finished with a 3-inch fabric facing or grosgrain ribbon.

• Slash through the center fold of darts and finger-press open, or stitch with a narrow zig-zag stitch and trim away excess fabric after stitching.

VELVET AND VELVETEENf

• Use a light-pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile.

• Mark and baste with silk thread.

• Use a Style# 2020, size 11 needle, and a fine thread for seaming.

"A” silk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet.

• Always stitch in the direction of the nap.

• For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch under light tension (see page 20). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch.

• When inserting a zipper, use the blindstitch for an almost invisible finish

(see page 48).

• To sew panne velvet, use a ball-point needle and a shorter-than-normal stitch length (12 to 15 straight stitches per inch).

fThe Even Feed Foot (see page 68) is especially designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

Page 49

construction details

ZIPPERS

At the notions counter in your Singer

Sewing Center, you will find many dif

ferent kinds of zippers, one of which will

be just right for whatever you want to

sew. The zipper package will contain

easy-to-follow instructions for inserting the zipper. And, with the zipper foot, you will find it easy to form an even line of stitching close to the zipper.

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Any Pattern Disc

• Needle Position: ^ (center)

• Stitch Width: i (straight stitch)

• General Purpose Needle Plate or

Straight Stitch Needle Plate

• Zipper Foot

Zipper Insertion

Position

Block

Attaching the Zipper Foot

When the zipper is to the right of the

needle:

• Move position block on zipper foot to left, to allow shank to enter right side of foot, so that needle will enter right notch in foot.

When the zipper is to the left of the needle:

• Move position block on zipper foot to right, to allow shank to enter left side of foot, so that needle will enter left notch in foot.

(The zipper foot is snapped onto shank as Instructed on page 8.)

CORDED SEAMS

The corded seam is a professionaf treat ment for slipcovers, children's clothes,

blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the welting first (or buy it ready-made at a notions counter), then stitch it into the seam. For both steps,

use the zipper foot to place the stitching close to the cord.

Zipper Foot Zipper Foot

to Left of Needle to Right of Needle

Making Welting for a

Corded Seam

Page 50

ZIPPERS (Continued)

BLINDSTITCH ZIPPER

INSERTION

• Flexi-St/tch Disc Dial : 0 (Off)

• Fashion Disc: 3 (Blindstitch)

• Needle Position: |iL, (Left)

• Stitch Width: ^ (Narrow)

• Stitch Length : 12

• Zipper Foot

• General Purpose Needle Plate

Blindstitching, used instead of straight stitching for the final step in zipper insertion, gives a fine finish that is almost invisible. Indispensable for knits, napped

fabrics, and sheers.

1. Allow for a |-inch seam allowance In

the zipper area when you cut garment.

Final Step of Blindstitch

Zipper Insertion

Completed! Blindstitch

Zipper Insertion

2. Insert zipper In the usual way up to

the final step ; then, turn garment right side out and spread flat with zipper face up.

3. Work from the right side and pin

zipper tape into position.

4. Baste a guideline for blindstitching alongside zipper, about | inch from garment seam. Make sure basting stitches go through all fabric layers and zipper tape. Remove pins.

5. Adjust zipper foot to right side of

needle.

6. Turn garment wrong side out. Place lower end of zipper tape over feed and turn front section of garment back to line of basting, creating a soft fold to the left of the needle.

7. Set stitch width selector and position work so that the straight stitches will go through the seam allowance and zipper tape, and the sideward stitches catch a few threads of the fold.

8. Lower zipper foot and stitch slowly.

After stitching, remove basting and

press lightly.

Page 51

BLINDSTITCH HEMS

• Flexi-Stitch Dial: 0 (off)

• Fashion Disc: 3 (Blindstitch)

• Needle Position or J

• Stitch Width: | to ^

• Stitch Length: 10-20

• General-Purpose Needle Plate

• General-Purpose Foot

• Blindstitch Hem Guide

Blindstitching provides a durable hem

finish that can be used on a variety of

light and medium weight fabrics. It is best suited to straight hems. Taped, bound, turned, or unfinished hem edges can be

blindstitched with equal ease. Blind-

stitching takes a little practice, however,

so make a test sample first.

1. Attach blindstitch hem guide as In-

Instructed on page?.

2. Mark, turn, and press hem In the usual way. (You may want to baste the turned hem to hold it in place. If so,

be sure to place the basting at least

i inch from hem edge.)

3. With the work wrong side up, turn the

hem under, creating a soft fold about

i Inch from hem edge. Press lightly.

4. Position the hem under the foot with the soft fold resting against wall of guide. Make sure flange of guide Is

between the soft fold and top of hem.

5. Lower the presser foot and stitch so that the straight stitches fall on the

hem edge and the sidward stitches pierce the soft fold. While stitching, guide hem edge in a straight line and

feed the soft fold evenly against the

wall of the hem guide.

Blindstitching Hem

Blindstitch Hem Completed

Page 52

Trimming Seam Edges after

Stitching with

Multi-Stretch Stitch

SEAMS IN FABRICS THAT RAVEL

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: Red I or 0 (Off)

• flexFStitch Disc: 242 Multi-Stretch,

232 Overedge Stretch or 201 Super Zig-Zag

• Fashion Disc: 3 Blindstitch

• Needle Position: (center)

• Stitch Width: ^ oi' ^ (maximum)

• Stitch Length: 8-20, depending on

choice of stitch and fabric

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. There are two

methods of finishing seam edges in such fabrics: overedging or trimming after stitching.

Overedging Trimmed Seam Edge

with Blindstitching

1. Make a test sample first to determine the stitch pattern and method that best suits your fabric.

2. Adjus't stitch length and stitch width to suit fabric. Choose the settings that will give you the most "open'' stitch that will secure the fabric edges; avoid harsh, over-stitched edges.

3. Trim the seam edges evenly. Place stitching near the edge of the

seam allowance or over the raw edge

as illustrated.

4. If stitching Is placed near the edge of

the seam allowance, trim away the

excess fabric after stitching.

Page 53

TOPSTITCHING

A practical, simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges, pockets, seams, etc. For a tailored look, use lines of regular straight stitching; use the straight stitch foot and sew them with buttonhole twist for added emphasis. For decorative interest, use a decorative Fashion disc or Flexi-Stitch disc pattern . To add firmness to hems and seams in knit and stretch garments, topstitch with the straight stretch stitch. The seam guide, available at your local Singer Sewing Center, will help you place stitching accurately.

Darts in Interfacing

• Flexi-St/tch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: 202 Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag or 201 Super Zig-Zag

• Needle Position: ^ (center)

• Stitch Width: ^ (maximum)

• Stitch Length: 20 or to suit Fabric

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

With zig-zag stitching, interfacings can be shaped without bulk.

1. Cut out the dart allowance on

the stitching line.

2. Bring raw edges together and pin or baste in place over a muslin stay.

3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends of dart for reinforcement.

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

M If

-=l 1=1

Steps in Making a Dart in Interfacing

Page 54

decorative touches

APPLIQUÉ

Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture combine equally well.

A closely spaced zig-zag stitch (produced with the Super Zig-Zag disc) is

most commonly used In appliqué work, but decorative stitch patterns may

also be used effectively. Although you may vary stitch width to accommo date fabric weave or texture, never allow the stitch to be too wide.

When appliquéing, make a test sample to help you decide which of the following methods Is most appropriate for your fabric and design.

Preparation

• Baste appliqué design to fabric.

• Outline design with straight stitching

(use a short stitch).

• Remove basting and press.

• Attach special purpose foot (and

general purpose needle plate).

Method 1

Trimming after Stitching

Method# 1 —Trimming after

Stitchirrg

1. Set machine for desired appliqué stitch and set stitch width. Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch length dial.

2. Outline the entire design with appliqué stitching.

3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of the stitching with embroidery scissors.

Method# 2

Stitching after

Trimming

1. Trim outside fabric edges close to straight stitch outline of design.

2. Set machine for plain zig-zag stitching and set stitch width. Adjust stitch

length in the FINE area of the stitch length dial.

Method 2

Stitching after Trimming

3. Overedge the design with zig-zag satin stitching. This step will produce a smooth, lustrous finish that requires no additional trimming.

Page 55

Hemstitched Appliqué

Designs applied with the slant overedge

stitch, Flexi-Stitch Disc 243, are particu

larly beautiful and especially effective on closely woven, smooth-textured fabrics

when a fine thread and large needle are

used to emphasize a hemstitched effect.

• FlexFStitch Disc Dial: Red I

• Flexi-Stitch Disc : 243 Slant Overedge

• Stitch Width: I to ^ (medium width)

• Needle Position : ^ (center)

• Stitch Length Dial: Red ■■

• Speed: Moderate

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

1. Insert a size 18 needle and thread the machine with a fine sewing thread.

HEMSTITCHING

A touch of quiet elegance is added to

fable and bed linens when hems are finished with the slant overedge stitch. This decorative treatment is effective on firm, plain-weave fabrics such as lawn or organdy, or fabrics from which threads

can be drawn readily, such as linen.

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial : Red |

• Ftexi-Stitch Disc: 243 Slant Overedge

• Stitch Width: ^ or | (narrow to medium)

• Needle Position : (center)

• Stitch Length Dial : Red “

• Pressure: Light

• Speed: Moderate

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose or Special Purpose Foot

Preparation

1. Insert a size 18 needle (because large needle holes are desirable

in hemstitching), and thread the machine with a fine sewing

thread.

2. Follow instructions of either method # 1 or method # 2 for

appliqueing, described on pre vious page.

2. Turn edge of fabric over twice to make hem of desired width.

Fold and press on lengthwise or

crosswise thread of fabric. Baste

in place.

3. Draw out 2 to 4 threads just above top edge of hem. The number of threads drawn will depend on the texture of the

fabric and the depth of the open work desired. (If threads cannot

be drawn, mark or baste a guide line on the right side of fabric.)

Page 56

DECORATIVE TOUCHES (Continued)

Stitch with Hem Toward Left

4T>-

Hemstitched Corner

HEMSTITCHING (Continued)

Procedure

1. Place work, right side up, under presser foot with the hem toward the

left

2. Lower the presser foot and stitch,

guiding the hem edge under the needle so that the straight stitches are made in the drawn-thread channel (or through the single thickness of fabric) and the sideward stitches (or points)

in the hem.

PICOT EDGES

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: Red I

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: 243 Slant Overedge

• Stitch Width: ^ (narrow)

• Needle Position: (center)

• Stitch Length Dial: Red

• Speed: Moderate

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose or Special Purpose Foot

Trim Fabric Close to Stitching

A dainty picot-like edge can be made in fine, crisp fabrics, such as organdie,using the slant overedge stitch. Appropriate for edging ruffles because it eliminates bulk, it is also useful as a foundation stitch for hand-rolled hems. Soft fabrics such as chiffon or voile should be supported with an underlay of crisp fabric while being stitched. Make a test sample to determine the need for an underlay, and to find the correct thread tension and stitch balance.

Procedure

1. Mark stitching line approximately i inch in from raw edge of fabric. Stitch along marked line,^ placing fabric so that the edge to be finished is turned

to the right.

2. Trim fabric close to the right side of

line of stitching as shown.

Page 57

FAGOTING

• flexi’Stitch Disc Dial: Red I

• Flexi-Stitch Disc : 202 Feather Stitch

• Needle Position : (center)

• Stitch Width : § (maximum)

• Stitch Length Dial : Red "

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

• Speed : Moderate

The art of joining two pieces of fabric with an open, lacy decorative stitch is called fagoting. You can create this attractive trimming with the feather stitch. Use it for decorative stretch seams in bathing suits or for joining together narrow strips of fabric to make an entire garment section.

• Turn under (and hem by slipstitching) the raw edges of the fabric strips or seams to be joined. Press flat.

Fagoting a Seam

• Stitch, guiding the two fabric edges under the center of the presser foot a

scant ¿-inch apart (abut edges for

bathing suit seams). Allow the needle

to alternately make a stitch in each fabric strip and two stitches in the center of the opening.

PATCHWORK QUILTING

Patchwork for quilts and wearing apparel,

formerly put together with hand stitching,

can be quickly "pieced" and decorated at

the same time by using the feather stitch

{Flexi-Stitch Disc 202). Joinings are both

flexible and durable when this Flexi-Stitch

disc is used.

Procedure

1. Set machine to sew the feather stitch at maximum stitch width.

Make sure Flexi-Stitch disc dial is on Red I .

3. Prepare patches, turning under

4 Baste patches to underlay in

Patchwork Quilting with

the Feather Stitch

¿-inch seam allowance. Press.

arrangement desired, butting all edges.

2. Cut a fabric underlay to size. (Baste a light layer of padding to underlay If a quilted effect is desired.)

5. Stitch at moderate speed in lengthwise and crosswise rows, allowing stitches to straddle

patches.

Page 58

DECORATIVE TOUCHES (Continued)

SHELL EDGING

• Flexi’St/tch Disc Dial: 0 .(0^^)

• Fashion Disc: 3 Blindstitch

• Needle Position: ^ (center)

• Stitch Width : ^ ^

• Stitch Length: 12 to 25

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

On soft fine fabrics such as tricot voile and crepe, shell edging makes an attrac tive finish for narrow hems or bias folds in blouses, slips, and petticoats.

Shell Edglhg with

the Blindstitch

Gathering Stitches for

Smocked Band

Make a test on a sample of your fabric to

find the right thread tension, stitch length,

and stitch width.

1. Place folded hem (basted, if neces

sary) or bias fold under presser foot with hem or fold to the left.

2. Stitch slowly, guiding fabric so that the sideward stitches are made over the folded edge.

SMOCKING

Smocking is a youthful decorative detail that is particularly charming when used for a yoke, insert or band on baby clothes,

little girls' dresses, or lingerie.

Procedure

1. Space rows of straight stitching, J inch

apart, on the crosswise fabric grain,

2. Pull up evenly for the amount of

fullness desired.

Smocked Band Completed

3. Baste to underlay.

4. Stitch over and between rows of shirring with decorative stitching.

Create your own design or adapt the

one illustrated. Use thread that con trasts with or matches your fabric, depending on the effect desired.

A te'st sample is always advisable to check stitch settings. Be sure to use the same fabric and degree of fullness you plan for your garment.

Page 59

keeping up appearances

MENDING

Many zig-zag and Flexi-Stitch disc pat

terns are just as useful for mending as

they are for creative sewing. A few of

the ways in which you will find them useful are shown on this and following

pages. You will enjoy discovering others

for yourself.

Mending a Tear

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: 202

• Needle Position ^ (center)

• Stitch Width: ^ or ^ (maximum)

• Stitch Length: About 20

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

Tear Mended with

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

1. Trim ragged edges.

2. Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement. (It is best not

to baste or pin the underlay since you

will be bringing the edges of tear

together in the next step).

3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the

edges of the tear together.

4. Shorten stitch length at ends and

corners to give extra strength.

5. Trim underlay.

Bar Tacks

Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain,

are made with the plain zig-zag stitch

(Super zig-zag disc 201) at satin stitch

length. Use them at pocket corners, to

attach garters, secure shoulder straps,

belt loops and zipper openings.

Bar-Tacked Belt Loops

Page 60

Stretch Germent Repair

Repairing Stretch Garments

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: Red I

• Flexi-Stitch Disc: 242 Multi-Stretch Stitch

• Needle Position: ^ (center)

• Stitch Width: I to ^

• Stitch Length Dial; Red —

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

• Speed: Moderate

Seanns in stretch garments and lingerie retain their elasticity when stitched with the multi-stretch stitch. This Flexi-Stitch

disc pattern builds s-t-r-e-t-c-h Into the seam as it is being sewn and is equally suitable when used to topstitch (as shown) or to overedge. Make a test sample to check dial settings.

Seam Repair

Repairing Seams

Breaks in press-open seams can be repaired quickly and easily when you use

the straight stretch stitch (Super Zig-Zag

Disc 201). This stitch is ideal for knit and

stretch fabrics and particularly useful for

repairing or strengthening curved seams

or seams that will receive strain when

worn.

1. Make a test sample to check dial

settings.

2. Remove loose thread along the break

and press seam edges together.

3. Re-stitch along original seamline, guiding seam under presser foot without stretching fabric, letting the

machine move the fabric to make the back-and-forth stitches that give

S‘t-r-e-t~c-h to the seam. Overlap

stitching one Inch at each end. Press seam open.

Page 61

DARNING

Worn or torn spots on children's clothes, knits, and household linens can be darned effortlessly and quickly with little practice. You may choose to darn either with or without an embroidery hoop. When greater control is needed, an embroidery hoop Is usually best.

Darning without Embroidery Hoop

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Any Pattern Disc

• Needle Position: ^ (center)

• Stitch Width : ! (straight stitch)

• Stitch Length: 12

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

• Pressure: DARN

1. If area to be darned is open, baste an

underlay in place.

2. Place area to be darned under presser foot; lower presser foot and start stitching, alternately drawing fabric toward you and pulling it gently away from you.

3. Continue this forward-and-backward motion as you fill the area with

parallel lines of stitching. For additional

strength, cover area with crosswise

lines of stitching.

Darning Without

Embroidery Hoop

Page 62

Feed-Cover Needle Plate

Darning with Embroidery Hoop

• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial: 0 (Off)

• Any Pattern Disc

• Needle Position: ^ (center)

• Stitch Width: j (straight stitch)

• Stitch Length: In Fine Area

• Feed-Cover Needle Plate

• N6 Presser Foot

• Presser Bar: Lowered

Preparation

Remove presser foot with shank (by re moving the screw which fastens the

shank to the presser bar). Attach feedcover needle plate. Instructions for chang ing the needle plate are given on page 8.

1. Trim ragged edges from area to be

darned.

Darning With Embroidery Hoop

2. Center worn section in embroidery

hoop.

3. Position work under needle over feedcover plate and /ower presser bar to

engage tension,

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand wheel over, and draw bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle Into fabric.

5. Outline area to be darned with running stitches for reinforcement.

6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop under needle at a slight angle from lower left to upper right. Keep lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length.

7. When opening is filled, cover area with

crosswise lines of stitching.

This method of controlling fabric move ment with an embroidery hoop may be used to do embroidering and monogramming.

Page 63

cleaning the machine

Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few

moments of your time to keep it clean. How often you will need to clean

the machine will depend on how often you use it.

CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, disconnect power-line

plug from electrical supply.

Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts.

With a soft cloth, clean:

• Tension discs, take-up lever,

thread guides.

• Presser bar and needle bar.

• Bobbin case. (If there is an excessive amount of lint In the area, remove the bobbin case for cleaning. See page 63

for Instructions.)

• Machine surface. (If necessary, dampen

the cloth and use a mild soap.)

Remove face plate as instructed on

page 62, and clean area behind it with a

lint brush f.

Remove needle plate as instructed on page 8 and, using a brush, clean the rotating hook area under the needle plate and slide plate.

and

Clean between tension discs

After cleaning, apply SINGER* oil at

points indicated on these pages.

Approximately once every year under

normal conditions, clean and lubricate all moving or rotating machine connections

to ensure freedom of movement and to

protect metal parts from excessive wear.

To remove top and bottom covers, follow

instructions on page 62.

|A lint brush designed for this purpose is avail able for separate purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.

Clean

Page 64

removing covers, bobbin case and bulb

CAUTION: Before removing covers, bobbin case, and light bulb,

disconnect power-line plug from electrical supply.

REMOVING AND REPLACING

TOP COVER

• To remove, loosen and remove screws

A and lift off top cover.

• To replace, make certain lever B is

against arm top cover to eliminate possi bility of damage. Position cover on top of machine and replace and tighten screws A.

REMOVING AND REPLACING BOTTOM COVER

If your machine is a portable, remove the

carrying case base as instructed below.

• To remove, tilt machine back and

remove retaining nut C, being careful

not to lose felt washer, and remove

cover from underside of machine.

• To replace, position cover over bottom

of machine and replace felt washer and retaining nut. Tighten retaining nut with a screwdriver.

REMOVING AND REPLACING CARRYING CASE BASE

• Turn machine so that back is toward you. Tilt machine back and loosen and

remove the retaining nut C from the center.

• Set machine upright and lift up and

out of base.

• Replace machine in base, after bottom

cover has been attached.

• Turn machine so that back is toward

you; tilt back and replace retaining nut. Tighten retaining nut with a screwdriver.

REMOVING AND REPLACING FACE PLATE

• Loosen and remove screw D and

remove face plate by sliding it down ward.

• Replace face plate by sliding top edge

of plate under edge of arm top cover.

• Align screw hole in plate with screw hole in machine and replace and tighten

screw D.

Page 65

REMOVING AND REPLACING BOBBIN CASE

• Raise presser foot.

• Turn hand wheel toward you until

needle is in its highest position.

• Open slide plate with downward finger pressure. Draw plate toward you,

opening it all the way to raise the

needle plate locking pin.

• Remove needle plate.

• Remove bobbin.

• To remove bobbin case:

Turn bobbin case holder to back as far as it will go. Lift out bobbin case.

• To replace bobbin case:

Guide the forked end under the feed

and then draw the bobbin case under the position plate as illustrated. Turn

bobbin case holder all the way for

ward to lock bobbin case In position. After locking the bobbin case in posi tion, check that the bobbin case does

not bind but has slight rotational

movement.

• Replace bobbin.

• Replace needle plate.

• Close slide plate to lower needle plate

locking pin and secure needle plate.

Page 66

Locks

CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB CAUTION: Before removing bulb,

disconnect power-line plug from electrical sup ply.

Unlocks

Changing the Light Bulb

Raise Presser Foot

and Needle

This machine is designed to use a 15 watt maximum light bulb

Lift Retaining

Spring into Slide

Plate Grooves

Removing the Bulb

With thumb and forefinger lower the

light bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew bulb. Press it up into socket and at same

time turn bulb over in direction shown to

unlock bulb pin.

Replacing the Bulb

Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin entering slot of socket, and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in position.

Push bracket back into recess.

REPLACING THE SLIDE PLATE

You will not have any occasion to remove the slide plate. However, if it should accidentally become disengaged from the machine, it is easily replaced.

• Raise presser foot and needle.

• Place slide plate in slideway with the

front edge close to, but not covering, the retaining spring (as shown in illustration).

• With a screwdriver, lift each end of the

spring into each of the side grooves on

the underside of the slide plate.

Replacing the Slide Plate

• Draw the plate gently toward you and

fully engage the spring.

•

• Close slide plate.

Page 67

REMOVING MACHINE

FROM CABINET

IMPORTANT;

• Do not attempt to remove hinges from cabinet as this may result in damage to

the wood of the cabinet.

• Pull cabinet away from wall to avoid

damage to wall or machine.

• Remove machine power-line plug from

electrical outlet

To Remove Machine From Cabinet:

1. Tilt machine back until it rests on hinges. Remove machine plug from receptacle.

NOTE: On models equipped with spring-assist plate (see Inset, Step 1), remove screw which fastens clip to machine. Remove electrical cord from clip, then replace clip and screw (to avoid loss of these items).

Step 2

2. Loosen set screws that hold machine

on hinge pins by turning them counter

clockwise.

3. Lift machine straight up and off pins. For ease of removal, stand behind cabinet when lifting machine.

To Replace Machine in Cabinet:

Reverse the procedure used for removing

the machine.

• Be sure set screws in machine are un

screwed far enough to clear the open

ings forthe hinge pins.

• To keep hinge pins pointing up while replacing the machine, slip an elastic

rubber band around both pins, making sure the elastic band is over the shoulder of each hinge as illustrated.

• Be sure set screws are firmly tightened

against hinge pins before lowering machine into sewing position or into storage position.

Step 3

Hinge Pins

NOTE: On Models equipped with

spring-assist plate, lead electrical cord into recess at bottom of plate; fit clip on cord and fasten to machine, as shown in inset. Step 1.

Elastic Band

Page 68

performance checklist

Should sewing difficulty be encountered, review the sections of this instruction book that explain the sewing operation you are performing.

If the problem still exists, the following hints will help you correct it.

If .the machine does not sew, make sure . . .

• Machine is connected to electrical supply.

• Power and light switch is on.

• Hand wheel disc is in sewing position. (See page 13).

If needle bar moves but stitch is not formed, make sure . . .

• Needle is straight and sharp.

• Needle size is correct for the thread you are using. (See page 11).

• Machine is correctly threaded.

• Bobbin contains thread.

• Bobbin and bobbin case are correctly inserted in machine.

• Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.

If fabric does not move, make sure ...

• Presser foot is down and that pressure dial is adjusted for the weight

and texture of your fabric.

• Stitch length selector is correctly set.

• Feed cover needle plate has been replaced with the correct needle plate

for the stitching you are doing.

• All lint is removed from' around the feed.

If needle breaks, make sure . . .

• Needle is not bent or burred, and that it is correct for machine, and

proper size for the thread you are using.

• Needle is fully inserted In needle clamp.

• Machine is set for straight stitching at center needle position when you

are using the straight stitch needle plate and foot.

• Twin needle does not strike needle plate when doing twin-needle

stitching. (See page 33).

• Presser-foot shank is securely fastened to presser bar.

• Needle plate is correctly seated and slide plate is fully closed.

• Fabric being guided or supported behind the needle is not being pulled

too hard or too fast.

Page 69

If stitching is irregular, or needle thread breaks, make sure . . .

• Flexi-Stitch dial is set at 0 when straight or zig-zag stitching.

• Flexi-Stitch dial is balanced when sewing Flexi-Stitch patterns.

• Machine is correctly threaded.

• Thread is even and free from knots.

• Needle is straight and sharp, and correct size for thread.

• Needle-thread tension is not too tight.

• Bobbin case is correctly threaded and properly inserted.

• Threads are correctly placed under presser foot when you start to sew.

• Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.

• Bobbin or bobbin case is not damaged.

• Stitch pattern disc is seated properly on disc holder.

Also remember to . . .

• Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle and take-up lever.

• Keep a stitch pattern disc on the holder at all times, even when you

are straight stitching.

• Turn stitch pattern disc release dial to the right before removing or

replacing pattern disc.

• Raise needle above fabric before making adjustments to stitch width

and needle position.

• Use red selector settings for Flexi-Stitch disc sewing.

• Turn Flexi-Stitch disc dial to 0 when making buttonholes.

• Start and finish sewing with take-up lever in Its highest position.

• Adjust stitch length, pressure, and thread tension to suit your fabric.

• Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting a sewing job.

• Lower presser foot before setting pressure dial.

• Press hand wheel disc for sewing and move bobbin winder switch to

SEW after winding a bobbin.

• Remove feed-cover needle plate after button sewing and after darning

with an embroidery hoop.

• Sew at a moderate speed when using a Flexi-Stitch disc pattern.

• Clean and oil your machine periodically.

Enjoy Sewing!

If you have any questions, please write to:

The Singer Company

Consumer Affairs Department

321 First Street, Elizabeth, N.J. 07207

Page 70

special accessories for special jobs

Fashion aids have been designed to

increase the versatility of your sewing

machine and enable you to give your sewing that extra professional touch. The ones described on this and the following pages are just a few of the

complete selection available at your local

Singer Sewing Center.

Professional Button holer

Professional^ Buttonholer No.102878

sews six kinds of buttonholes, plus eyelets, in a variety of fabrics.

Even Feed Foot No. 507806 is effective in keeping fabric plies even and in matching plaids, stripes and patterns. It is an invaluable aid for sewing hard-to-

feed vinyl and fake fur, pile, stretch,

bonded and laminated fabrics. Ideal for topstitching.

Ruffler

Ruffler No. 86742 offers a simple,

effective way to make gathered and

pleated ruffles. The ruffler is used for

straight stitching only.

Binder Foot No. 81245 is used to apply ready-made bias tape or unfolded bias

binding to an unfinished fabric edge. It is particularly useful for binding seam edges that might ravel.

Button Foot No. 161613 holds any two-hole or four-hole button securely for stitching. The groove in the foot can be

used to hold a needle, over which a

thread shank can be formed.

Page 71

Seam Guide No. 161172 helps keep seam width uniform when extra control is needed, especially on unusually wide or narrow seams. Used as a guide for topstitching and blindstitch hemming.

Edgestitcher No. 36865, used with the straight stitch setting, is ideal for joining and inserting lace, tucking from pin width up to ^ inch, French seaming and seam piping, facing, and seam finishing.

Gathering Foot No. 161659 can be used for evenly spaced shirring as well as for a single line of gathering. This foot is used for straight stitching only.

Hemmer Foot No. 161671 is used for turning and stitching narrow hems in one operation. Thus, you can eliminate basting or pinning whenever you are making ruffle edges, lingerie finishes, and the like.

Darning and Embroidery Foot No. 161876 is recommended for ail types of free-motion work. It is ideal for em

broidery, monogramming and decorative designs because the transparent toe fully

reveals the line of the design to be followed.

Hemmer

Foot

Darning and Embroidery Foot

Page 72

FASHION AIDS (Continued)

Fashion Discs

The following additional Fashion discs are available at your Singer

Sewing Center:

7. Shell Edge

8. Solid Scallop

9. Icicle 18. Three Step

AAA

0 \ 0 \ 0 \

liVlIPlF'

10. Banner

11. Key

13. Diamond

14. Zig-Zag Point

15. Long Oblique

m! Iwl fin

yVyN,

........

16. Shingle

17. Pennant

19. Ball

20. Curved Mending

21. Thunderbird

22. Semaphore

23. Solid Pyramid

Needles

LVryiyii

mmm

24. Open Pyramid \/\/\/

25. Spiny

26. Block

27. Fagoting

28. Comb

29. Pavilion

30. Platform

Amuj iMuy ^u| uij

/ niM' mfuf M

VMVvVAV

111111U-LL

AAAAAAM

MW «N JMA MM

/ 1 » 1 < • » 1

r MM MM M IM

• Ball-Point (Yellow Band) Needle, Style 2045, is used for sewing

stretch fabrics and knits. Including nylon tricot.

• Twin Needle, Style 2028, is used for stitching two lines of decorative

stitching simultaneously.

• Leather-Sewing Needle, Style 2032, is used for sewing leather

and suede.

SINGER Oil

Available in tube or one-application capsules, this oil is especially

prepared for leaving a fine film of lubricant on the precision bearing

surfaces of your machine. It ensures freedom of parts movement and

protects metal parts from excessive wear.

DELUXE MONOGRAMMER No. 171278

With the deluxe monogrammer you will have the pleasure of stitching

initials 1i inches high to create monograms that are ideal for adding a personal touch to table linens, towels, and wearing apparel. An attractive flower motif can also be made.

Page 73

your persona! measurement chart

This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. Have someone assist you in taking the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure. The illustrations below show where the tape measure should be placed when taking each

measurement.

Inches

1. BUST—Fullest part —

slightly higher in back

2. WAIST — Around natural

waistline................................

3. HIP —

4. SHOULDER — From base

5. FRONT BODICE WIDTH

6. BACK BODICE WIDTH—

7. SHOULDER TO BUST—

8. FRONT WAIST LENGTH

9. BACK WAIST LENGTH —

10. SLEEVE WIDTH—Around

11. SLEEVE LENGTH —

12. SLEEVE LENGTH —Elbow

13. FRONT SKIRT LENGTH—

14. BACK SKIRT LENGTH —

..........

inches below

natural waistline (fullest part)

of neck to top of arm

— From armhole to arm hole 5 inches down from center shoulder

From armhole to armhole 4

inches down from center

shoulder .. ..

From neck base at shoulder

to a line even with point of bust

.......................................

—From neck base at shoulder over fullest part of bust to waistline ..

From the prominent bone

at base of neck to natural waistline

arm at upper edge of under arm seam ..

Shoulderto elbow

to wrist

Down center from waist

line to hem ..

Down center from waist

line to hem

SLACKS MEASUREMENT CHART

15. FULL LENGTH—Waistto

floor at side seam ..

16. SLACKS LENGTH—Waist

to ankle .................................

17. CROTCH SEAM (stand-

ing)— ....................................................

18. CROTCH SEAM (seated)

— Waist to chair at side seam

.....................................

Page 74

INDEX

Page

Accessories ........................................

Appliqué ..............................................

Blindstitch Hem Guide Blindstitch Hems Bobbin

Bobbin Case

Buttonhole Foot

Buttonholes

Buttons................................

Carrying Case Base ...........................

Changing Pattern Discs Checklist Cleaning the Machine

Darning

Darts in Interfacing Elastic, Attaching

Electrical Connections

Embroidering Fabric, Thread and Needle Table . . 11

Fagoting....................................................... 55

Fashion Aids ............................................... 68

Fashion Discs

Feed-Cover Needle Plate

Feed ............................................................... 3

Finishes for Hems and Facings 43

Flexi-Stitch Discs

Free-Motion Stitching

General Purpose Foot .................................

Guiding and Supporting Fabric .. 23, 40

Handwheel .................................................... 3

Hand Wheel Disc .......................................... 5

Hems, Blindstitch

Hemstitching............................................... 53

Knit Fabrics, Sewing Light Bulb

Lubrication

Mending ...................................................... 57

Needle

Needle Clamp Needle Position Dial

Needle Plate ........................................ 3, 6

................................................

Winding

Removing and Replacing ....

Threading

Stitch Density Balance

Removing and Replacing .... 62

Speed Controller

Adjusting Stitch Balance

Changing .................................................. 9

Threading ............................................... T5

Twin Needle ............................................ 34

Changing .................................................. 8

...........................................

.......................................

..................................

.......................

.....................................................

........................................................

..............................................

..............................

...

................................................ 64

................................................

...........................................................

............................................

......................

...............................

.........................................

.............................

...............................

....................................

......................................

...........................

.................................

.................

.........................

...............

................................

......................................

.................................

.....................

7,49

7, 37

___

.......

5, 9, 25, 26

6, 25, 60

5, 9, 25, 30

4,17,27,31

5, 9

25 66

41 5,10 5,10

3,9

Oiling ...................................................... 61

Patchwork Quilting.............................

Personal Measurement Chart ....

PIcot Edges Pin Basting

Power and Light Switch

PresserFoot

Changing

Presser Foot Lifter .............................

Pressure Adjustment

Principal Parts ....................................

Removing Machine from Cabinet

Reverse-Stitch Push Button ... .4,

Satin Stitching

Seams, Sewing ...................................

Corded ............................................

Curved Finishes Ladder

Lingerie

Overedged.......................................

Plain Stretch Shell Edging Slide Plate Smocking

Special Fabrics, Sewing ........

Special Purpose Foot..................7, 28,

Spool Pin .............................................

Stitch Density Balance

(Buttonholes) .................................

Stitch Length Dial Stitch Width Dial Straight Stitch Foot Straight Stitching

Adjusting Selectors

Stretch Fabrics, Sewing

Take-up Lever

Tension Adjustment ...........................

For Straight Stitching ..................

For Zig-Zag Stitching................27,

Thread ..................................................

Thread Cutter.......................................

Threading the Machine ......................

Topstitching Twin-Needle Stitching

Winding the Bobbin

Zig-Zag Stitching ................................

Fashion Discs Flexi-Stitch Discs .

Needle Position Satin Stitching Stitch Length

Stitch Width

Zipper Foot ..........................................

Zippers

Blindstitch Zipper Insertion

........................................

.........................................

......................................

..........................

.................................

............................................

...................

............................................

...........................................

..................................

.......................................

............................................

......................

........................

............................

...............................

.....................................

..............................

...........................

..........................

..............................

..............

.............................

...................................

...

.............................................

.....................

........................

.......................

4, 18, 4, 17,

.......................

.....................

.......................

5,9,

...

..............

5, 9,

................

28,

Page

55 71 54

5, 10

6, 7,8

3, 19

18, 21

50 41 44

42 40 56

3, 64

33, 52

28, 32 27, 31

6, 17

18 39

3 4

29, 31

12, 34

51 33

25, 26 25, 30

27, 31

29, 32

27, 31

7, 47

Page 75

CONGRATULATIONS . . .

You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new Sty/ist* Special Zig-Zag Sewing Machine by SINGER. We know you are eager to get started on a sewing project . . . but we urge you to become familiar with this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the

benefit of all the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that you keep the following points in mind :

choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or

faulty stitching. The Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table on page 11 will

help you make a perfect choice.

sew with a bent or blunt needle. If the needle is damaged—or

(Ayri^

iv /V instructions on page 15 for threading the machine. Note

particularlythedirectionsforthreading the tension discs.

improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause skipped

stitches. See page 9 for Instructions.

forget to place the thread properly when you insert a wound

bobbin. Page 14 tells you how to do this perfectly.

become familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length

(page 18), presser-foot pressure (page 19), and thread tension (page 20). Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine !

allow lint and thread ends to accumulate In the bobbin case

SjQnn^

remember that expert, dependable SINGER* service is always

cLy

Above all, i/o enjoy sewing !

Form K8749 (|m (878)

(Part No. 116288-001)

available. If your sewing machine should require maintenance or repair, be sure to call your Singer Sewing Center or Authorized Singer Dealer. You will find the number listed under SINGER

COMPANY in your telephone book.

area—they can cause jamming or excessive noise. Clean your machine regularly, as Instructed on page 61.

Page 76

9€WinG Micmtii 01BIM€T;

With the home sewer’s needs comfortable and ample work

in mind, Singer combines ex- space. Shown here are just a pert craftsmanship with imag- few of the contemporary and inative design in sewing traditional styles available, cabinets that provide both

Beautiful carving and handsome

hardware enhance the Mediter

ranean look of the Monaco.

Basketwork design adds a hand- The warmth of Early American decrafted mellowness to the trim, sign distinguishes the maplemodern lines of the Greenbrier. toned Saratoga cabinet.

Sleek lines and rich walnut ve neers make the Pacesetter an

elegant addition to any room.

Chairs and benches in coordinated wood tones áre also available.

*A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY

SINGER 518 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

Feed Cover Needle Plate

STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT AND NEEDLE PLATE

SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT

BUTTONHOLE FOOT

BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES

BOBBINS

NEEDLES

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

STITCH PATTERN DISCS

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE

THE NEEDLE THREAD

Threading the needle

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD

You are now ready to sew

SETTING THE MACHINE

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

STARTING TO SEW

ADJUSTING PRESSURE

STARTING A SEAM

KEEPING THE SEAM STRAIGHT

CURVED SEAMS

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN

ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION

Adjusting Stitch Placement

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

ACCESSORIES AND SELECTOR SETTINGS

Adjusting Stitch Length

Adjusting Thread Tension

PATTERNS PRODUCED BY FLEXI-STITCH DISCS

FLEXI-STITCH DISC PATTERNS

BASIC ZIG-ZAG PATTERNS

To Produce a Flexi-Stitch Disc Pattern

Adjusting Width of Design

Adjusting Stitch Placement

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

SETTING STITCH LENGTH DIAL

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE

SETTING THE MACHINE

Straight Stitching

Zig-Zag Stitching

INSERTING THE TWIN NEEDLE

BUTTONHOLE POSITION

BUTTONHOLE LENGTH

Step 3: Side Stitching

BALANCING THE TWO LINES OF STITCHING

STRETCH STITCH CHART

PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS

Procedure

LADDER SEAMS

OVEREDGED SEAMS

Method #2 — Mock Overedging

FINISHES FOR HEMS AND FACINGS

LEATHER-LOOK VINYL t

ZIPPERS

Attaching the Zipper Foot

CORDED SEAMS

SEAMS IN FABRICS THAT RAVEL

Darts in Interfacing

APPLIQUÉ

Stitching after Trimming

Hemstitched Appliqué

HEMSTITCHING

Preparation

Procedure

PICOT EDGES

Procedure

PATCHWORK QUILTING

Procedure

SMOCKING

Procedure

MENDING

Mending a Tear

Bar Tacks