SINGER 518 User Manual
CONGRATULATIONS .
You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new
Sty/zst* Special Zig-Zag Sewing Machine by SINGER. We know you are
eager to get started on a sewing project . . . but we urge you to become
familiar with this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the
benefit of all the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that
you keep the following points in mind :
choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the
d&
wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or
faulty stitching. The Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table on page 11 will
help you make a perfect choice.
sew with a bent or blunt needle. If the needle is damaged—or
improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause skipped
stitches. See page 9 for Instructions.
follow the instructions on page 15 for threading the machine. Note
particularlythedirectionsforthreading the tension discs.
forget to place the thread properly when you insert a wound
bobbin. Page 14 tells you how to do this perfectly.
become familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length
(page 18), presser-foot pressure (page 19), and thread tension
(page 20). Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine !
allow lint and thread ends to accumulate In the bobbin case
area—they can cause jamming or excessive noise. Clean
your machine regularly, as Instructed on page 61.
remember that expert, dependable SINGER* service is always
do'
Above all, i/o enjoy sewing !
Form K8749 (jU (878)
(Part No. 116288-001)
available. If your sewing machine should require maintenance or
repair, be sure to call your Singer Sewing Center or Authorized
Singer Dealer. You will find the number listed under SINGER
COMPANY in your telephone book.
Copyright (g) 1972 THE SINGER COMPANY
All rights reserved Printed in Great Britain
CONTENTS
Page
Getting to Know Your SINGER * Sewing Machine
Principal Parts—^And What They Do..................................................... 2
Accessories—And When to Use Them................................................... 6
Getting Ready to Sew ................................................................................... 10
Preliminary Steps .................................................................................. 10
Choosing Needle and Thread............................................................... 11
Threading Your Sewing Machine.......................................................... 12
----------------------------
2
Straight Stitching
Adjusting Selectors ............................................................................... 18
Sewing a Seam ..................................................................................... 21
Zig-Zag Stitching
Fashion^ Disc Patterns.......................................................................... 26
FlexFStitch* Disc Patterns.................................................................... 30
Twin-Needle Stitching ................................................................................... 33
Preparation ............................................................................................ 33
Threading the Needle ............................................................................ 34
Buttons and Buttonholes.............................................................................. 35
Buttons................................................................................................... 35
Buttonholes............................................................................................ 36
Sewing the Professional Way
Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics
Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics
Construction Details.............................................................................. 47
Decorative Touches .............................................................................. 52
Keeping Up Appearances...................................................................... 57
...........................................................................................
......................
..................................................................... 25
......................................................................
.......................................................
........................................................
17
39
39
45
Caring For Your Machine.............................................................................. 61
Cleaning and Lubricating the Machine ............................................... 61
Removing Covers, Bobbin Case and Bulb
Removin^j Machine from Cabinet
Performance Checklist.......................................................................... 66
Fashion* Aids................................................................................................. 68
Your Personal Measurement Chart ............................................................. 71
Index ............................................................................................................. 72
........................................................
..........................................
62
65
1 Bobbin Winder
Tension Disc
principa! parts
10 Spool Pin
and Felt
11 Bobbin Winder
Switch and
Bobbin Holder
2 Pressure
Dial
3 Take-up
Lever
4 Presser-
Foot Lifter
5 Thread
Cutter
6 Needle Clamp
7 Presser
Foot
8 Needle Plate
9 Feed
---------
-------
■—^ w
1 Mi i
1 Us
1 U1
1 \ i
Ì ‘
12 Hand
Wheel
13 Flexi-Stitch
Disc Dial
14 Sewing Light
15 Slide Plate
and what they do
1. Bobbin Winder Tension Disc regulates thread tension for bobbin winding.
2. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all-purpose
setting plus settings for extra-light and extra-heavy pressure, and for darning.
3. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.
4. Presser-Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and lower presser
foot. The high-lift position allows easy placement of bulky fabrics.
5. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience.
6. Needle Clamp holds single and twin needles and is designed to eliminate the
possibility of inserting needle backwards.
7. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. The feet snap off for quick removal.
8. Needle Plate lifts out for easy removal. Guidelines on right and left sides extend
to slide plate to help you keep seams straight.
9. Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.
10. Spool Pin and Felt. Pin holds thread spools of various sizes. Felt helps thread
unwind smoothly.
11. Bobbin Winder Switch and Bobbin Holder let you fill the bobbin with thread
quickly and easily.
12. Hand Wheel positions take-up lever and needle. Always turn it towards you.
13. Flexi-Stich Disc Dial sets the machine for/^/ex/-Sf/ic/7 disc sewing and varies
the balance oi Flexi-Stitch disc patterns in order to obtain desired pattern appearance.
Dial must be set on 0 {off) position when not in use.
14. Sewing Light illuminates the sewing area.
15. Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replacement of the bobbin, and raises
and lowers the pin that holds the needle plate in place.
3
PRINCIPAL PARTS (Continued)
16. Needle-Thread Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch,
thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.
17. Needle-Thread Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial, regulate the amount
of tension on your needle thread.
18. Needle-Position Dial places needle in either left, center or right stitching
position. Use center position for straight stitching.
19. Disc-Release Dial releases pattern disc from disc holder for quick and easy
pattern changes. Always turn dial to the right.
20. Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig-zag stitching and positions needle
for straight stitching. Use i setting for straight stitching.
21. Stitch Length Selector and Buttonhole Dial allows for a variety of stitch
lengths. Including FINE for zig-zag satin stitching. Has special settings for button
holing and F!exi‘Stitch disc sewing.
22. Reverse-Stitch Push Button has two separate functions. It lets you reverse
stitching direction and balance buttonhole stitch density.
16 Needle-Thread
18 Needle-Position
and Buttonhole Dial
Push Button
23. Interchangeable Stitch Pattern Discs
provide for a variety of decorative uses as
well as serving such practical purposes as
sewing stretch fabrics. There are two kinds
of discs: Fashion discs (black), and Flexi-
Stitch discs (light colored). Each disc is
numbered and its design is reproduced on
its surface for quick recognition. Flexi-
Stitch disc patterns are shown in red on
Fiexi-Stitch discs. Always keep a disc on
the disc holder, even when you are straight
stitching.
24. Stitch Pattern Disc Holder holds any
one of the interchangeable stitch pattern
discs. Always keep a disc on the holder,
even when straight stitching.
23 Interchangeable Stitch Pattern Disc
24 Stitch Pattern Disc Holder
25. Hand Wheel Disc engages hand wheel
to sewing mechanism. Disengage hand
wheel for bobbin winding by pressing©
bobbin symbol on disc.
26. Transparent Bobbin shows thread supply
... is easily removed for bobbin winding.
27. Power and Light Switch turns on the
power and the sewing light simultaneously.
28.
Electrical Connections and Speed
Controller are designed for convenience
and safety.
See instructions for connecting machine
and operating machine and controller on
page 10.
27 Power and Light
accessories . . . and when to use them
The accessories that come with your Sty/ist sewing machine are designed
tp help you do many kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. Additional
accessories, listed on page 68 at the back of this instruction book, are
available for purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.
GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT
AND NEEDLE PLATE
The general purpose foot and the general
purpose needle plate are in place on the
machine. Ideal for all utility sewing, these
fittings can be used for either straight or
zig-zag stitching. Always use them to-
gether when alternating between straight
and zig-zag stitching.
General-Purpose Needle Plate
StraightStitch
Foot
Straight-Stitch Needle Plate
D
Feed Cover Needle Plate
STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT AND NEEDLE PLATE
The straight stitch foot and the straight
stitch needle plate are used when your
fabric or sewing procedure requires
close control.
Especially useful for:
• Precision stitching
scalloped edges,
stitching, etc.
Stitching delicate or spongy fabrics,
synthetics, and knits.
FEED COVER NEEDLE PLATE
The feed cover needle plate replaces the
general purpose needle plate (or straight
stitch needle plate) when fabric feeding
is not desired. Use it for button sewing
(pag^SB) and free-motion darning (page
of curved and
topstitching, edge
60).
SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT
The special purpose foot is used with the
general purpose needle plate for all kinds
of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use it for;
• Zig-zag satin stitching
• Ornamental stitching with Fiexi-Stitch
disc patterns
• Appliqué
• Twin-needle stitching
BUTTONHOLE FOOT
The buttonhole foot is used with the
general purpose needle plate to make
four-step, bar-tack buttonholes in fabrics
of light and medium weight. For instruc
tions, see page 37.
ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is used to place stitching
close to a raised edge. Thus, it is as useful
for corded seams and tubular cording as
it is for zipper insertion (page 47). It can
be fitted to either the right or the left side
of the needle and may be used with the
straight stitch or general purpose needle
plate.
Special Purpose Foot
Buttonhole Foot
BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE
The blindstitch hem guide is used with
the general purpose foot to position the
hem fold for blindstitch hemming (page
49). To attach, simply loosen presser-foot
screw and slip guide between screw and
presser-foot shank. Position guide so that
it clears both slide plate and presser-foot
toe. Tighten screw.
Blindstitch Hem Guide
ACCESSORIES (Continued)
Changing Presser Foot
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
The presser feet that are supplied with
your machine snap on and off a common
shank. To change the foot:
1. Raise presser foot lifter and turn
handwheel toward you to raise needle
to its highest position.
2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as
far as it will go) and then snap down
to remove the foot.
3. Center the new presser foot under the
shank and lower the presser-foot
lifter so that the shank fits over the
presser-foot pin.
4. Press down on presser-foot screw until
foot snaps into place.
To remove the complete foot (with
shank), as for free-motion darning or
embroidery instructed on page 60,
loosen the presser-foot screw and
remove shank and foot together.
Needle Plate
Positioning Pin
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES
1. Raise needle to its highest position and
raise the presser-foot lifter (you do not
need to remove the presser foot).
2. Open slide plate with downward finger
pressure. Draw plate toward you,
opening it all the way to raise the
locking pin that holds the needle plate
in place.
3. Place thumb under right side of needle
plate; lift and withdraw plate to the
right.
4. Insert new needle plate under locking
pin and over positioning pin.
5. Close slide plate to lower locking pin
and secure the needle plate.
8
BOBBINS
Transparent drop-in bobbin, # 172336,
shows thread supply at a glance.
NEEDLES
• Style 2020 needles for all-purpose
sewing.
• Style 2045 ball-point (yellow band)
needles for sewing knits and stretch
fabrics.
• Style 2028 twin needle for decora
tive twin-needle stitching.
Transparent Bobbin
IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing
machine has been designed to obtain
best results with SINGER needles. You
should follow the recommendations in
this instruction book and on the needle
package for correct style and size of needle
for different types and weights of fabrics.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
The needle clamp is designed so that the
needle can only be inserted with the flat
side of the needle to the back. To change
the needle:
1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,
loosen needle-clamp screw, and re
move needle.
2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the
flat side of the needle to the back;
push It up as far as it will go.
3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.
Regular Needle
(Yellow Band) Needle
vv
Twin Needle
Ball-point
STITCH PATTERN DISCS
• Six Fa5/7/OA7 discs (black).
• Five Flexi-Stitch discs (white).
Turn to page 25 for Information on
changing stitch pattern discs.
Fashion Disc
F/exi-Stitch Disc
preliminary steps
CONNECTING THE MACHINE
Before plugging in your machine, be sure
that the voltage and number of cycles
indicated on the plate under the hand
wheel conform to your electrical power
supply.
Push the machine plug into the receptacle
at the right end of the machine bed. Then
connect the power-line plug to your
electrical outlet.
OPERATING MACHINE AND
CONTROLLER
To turn on both machine and sewing
light, press power and light switch to
ON position (red bar on switch will be
visible). To turn off machine and light,
press switch at red bar to OFF position.
CAUTION: We recommend that you
turn off the power and light switch before
changing needles, presser feet, and needle
plates and when leaving the machine
unattended. This eliminates the possibility
of starting the machine by accidentally
pushing the speed controller.
To run the machine, press the speed
controller. The harder you press, the
faster the machine will sew.
To stop the machine from sewing,
remove pressure from speed controller.
Speed Controller
10
choosing needle and thread
The needle and thread you choose selection. Refer to it before starting
will depend upon the fabric being a sewing project. Be sure to use the
stitched. The table below is a same size and type of thread in both
practical guide to needle and thread needle and bobbin.
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE
Needles
Fabric
Thread
Type
Size
DELICATE —tulle, chiffon,
fine lace, organza
LU3 HTWEIG HT — batiste,
organdy, jersey, voile, taffeta,
crepe, chiffon, velvet, plastic film
MEDIUM WEIGHT —gingham,
percale, piqué, linen, chintz,
faille, satin, fine corduroy, velvet,
suitings, deep-pile fabrics,
vinyl
MEDIUM HEAVY —gabardine,
tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings,
drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile
fabrics
H EAVY — overcoatings,
denim, upholstery fabrics,
canvas
Fine polyester, nylon,
and cotton thread
50 mercerized cotton
"A” silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester
50 mercerized cotton
60 cotton
“A” silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton
40 to 60 cotton
Polyester thread
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton
24 to 40 cotton
Polyester thread
STYLE
2020
(15 X 1)
STYLE
2020
(15x1)
STYLE
2020
(15 X 1)
STYLE
2020
(15 X 1)
STYLE
2020
(15 X 1)
9
11
14
16
18
ALL WEIG HTS — decorative
straight stitch topstitching
in woven fabrics
KNIT, WOVEN STRETCH
and ELASTIC FABRICS —
polyester doubleknit, spandex,
nylon tricot, ciré tricot, jersey,
panné velvet
LEATHER — suede, kidskin.
capeskin, lambskin, lined
leathers
LIGHT and MEDIUM
WEIGHTS — decorative
twin-needle stitching
In woven fabrics
t Use with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.
"D" silkf
(Buttonhole twist)
"A" nylon
50 mercerized cotton
"A” silk
Cotton-wrapped
polyester
50 mercerized cotton
Polyester thread
"A” silk
Cotton-wrapped
polyester
50.mercerized cotton
STYLE
2020
(15x1)
STYLE
2045
Bail-Point
(Yellow Band)
STYLE
2032
(15x2)
STYLE
2028
(twin)
16
or
18
14
11
14
16
14
11
Press Here
for Bobbin Winding
threading your
sewing machine
Like all sewing machines that produce
what is called a “lockstitch", your Stylist
sewing machine sews with two threads.
The upper thread comes from the spool
and is threaded through the eye of the
needle. The lower thread comes from the
bobbin, the small transparent spool that
you wind using the machine. It is best to
wind the bobbin before threading the
needle.
Removing Bobbin
THE BOBBIN THREAD
Winding the Bobbin
• Press hand wheel disc at bobbin
symbol .
• Open slide plate. Draw plate toward
you to make bobbin accessible.
• Lift out the bobbin and close slide plate
to make sure needle plate Is secure
while winding.
•
12
Tension Disc
• Place thread spool on spool pin over
felt. Lead thread around bobbin winder
tension disc and through small hole in
bobbin (from the inside).
Pass Thread Through
Hole in Bobbin
• Place bobbin on holder and turn bobbin
winder switch to WIND.
• Hold thread as shown and start the
machine. Cut off thread end when
winding is well under way.
• When required amount of thread has
been wound (winding will stop by
itself when bobbin is full), stop the
machine and cut connecting thread.
• Turn bobbin winder switch to SEW
and remove bobbin from holder.
•
• Press hand wheel disc for sewing.
Bobbin Winder Switch
Press Here
for Sewing
13
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Open slide plate. Hold bobbin so that
thread unwinds in direction shown, and
put bobbin in bobbin case.
2. Pull thread into notch, draw it under
tension spring and back into slot.
14
3. Draw about three inches of thread
diagonally across the bobbin.
4. Close slide plate allowing thread to
enter slot between the needle plate and
slide plate.
THE NEEDLE THREAD
Lead thread
under right
guide, up, and
into tension
discs
Lead thread over
spring and under
left guide
Tension
Discs
Right
Guide
Left
Guide
Threading the needle
1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up
lever to its highest position, and raise
presser foot to release the tension
discs.
2. Lead thread through all points as
shown, making sure to:
• Snub thread as illustrated while guiding
thread into tension discs.
• Thread tension discs as illustrated.
• Thread take-up lever from back to front,
guiding thread down over top of lever
and then up Into eyelet.
•
Allow spring to return to its
normal up position and con
tinue threading the machine.
• Thread needle from front to back,
drawing about four inches of thread
through eye of needle.
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Now that you have wound the bobbin
and threaded the needle, you will need to
raise the bobbin thread through the needle
hole in the needle plate.
1. Hold needle thread lightly with left
hand and turn hand wheel slowly
toward you so that needle enters hole
in needle plate.
2. Continue turning hand wheel and
holding needle thread until needle
rises. Tighten your hold on the needle
thread and bring up bobbin thread in
a loop.
16
3, Open the loop with your fingers.
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads
under presser foot, and draw to back
of machine.
You are now ready to sew
• Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial; O (Off)
• Needle Position : (center)
• Stitch Width : i
• Stitch Length : To suit fabric
• Straight Stitch Needle Plate or
General Purpose Needle Plate
• Straight Stitch Foot or
General Purpose Foot
O
Flexi-Stitch Disc Dial Off
Before you move the selectors to set your
sewing machine for straight stitching,
turn the hand wheel toward you until the
needle Is above the needle plate.
SETTING THE MACHINE
• Turn Flexi-Stitch disc dial to off
position 0.
• Move needle position selector to
center^.
• Set stitch width selector on i .
CHOOSING ACCESSORIES
Best results will be obtained if you use
the straight stitch foot and needle plate.
However, the general purpose foot and
needle plate may also be used.
STARTING TO SEW
• Place needle and bobbin threads under
presser foot and draw to back of
machine.
JL J
Needle Position
Stitch Width
• Position the needle In the fabric where
stitching should start.
• Lower the presser foot and start the
machine.
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of
fabrics adjust stitch length, pressure and
thread tension as Instructed on the
following pages.
For information on straight stretch
stitching turn to page 40.
Straight Stitch Accessories
17
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
adjusting selectors for your fabric
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length selector controls the
length of stitches. The numbers around
the edge of the selector dial express stitch
length in stitches per inch; the higher the
number, the shorter the stitch. Generally,
shorter stitches ^re best for lightweight
fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. The
FINE area is used for the adjustment of
zig-zag satin stitching.
Setting Selector
• Turn dial so that the stitch length
desired is positioned under the arrow
head ▼ on the control panel.
• To shorten the stitch, turn the dial
clockwise to a higher number.
• To lengthen the stitch, turn the dial
counterclockwise to a lower number.
For reverse stitching, press the reversestitch push button (located In the center
of the dial) in as far as It will go and hold
in place (the button can be pushed In
while the machine is sewing). Release
pressure on the push button to return to
forward stitching.
Stitch Length Dial
18
{For detailed instructions on adjusting
the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching,
see page 29.)
ADJUSTING PRESSURE
Pressure Dial
To Increase
Dial
The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the
fabric. Correct pressure is important because it enables the fabric to feed
smoothly and evenly, without being marred. The NORM (normal) setting
is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of
fabrics of different weights and textures. Intermediate notched settings,
above and below NORM (normal), are also provided. When you need extra
control, regulate the setting for heavier or lighter pressure to suit the fabric
being sewn.
When darning without an embroidery hoop, set the dial at the lowest
setting, DARN. See page 59 for instructions.
Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.
• To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward MAX
(maximum).
• To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward DARN.
• For darning, set dial on DARN.
19
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
Needle-Thread Tension
THREAD ▼ TENSION
|2.iS
......
rnrnrTT^iHrnrt
THREAD ▼ TENSION
L13 4 SJ
rsl
JDrmU
REGULATING THREAD TENSION
Correct tension is important because too
much or too little will weaken your seams
or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a
test sample with the fabric and thread
you plan to use and examine it. A perfect
stitch will have the needle and bobbin
threads locked between the two layers of
fabric with no loops on top or bottom and
no puckers.
Increase Decrease
Needle-Thread Tension
The tension dial regulates the degree of
tension on your needle thread. Set it
according to the type of thread and fabric
you use. The numbers on the dial eliminate
guesswork in duplicating settings.
If the stitches in your test sample look
loose, increase needle-thread tension. If
the fabric puckers, decrease tension.
To increase tension, turn dial to
higher number.
20
To decrease tension, turn dial to
lower number.
sewing a seam
PIN BASTING
Pin basting is a time-saver and can be
used when you sew easy-to-handle
fabric. Use fine pins and place them :
• On top of the fabric (never on the
underside in contact with the feed).
• At right angles to the stitching line.
• Just nipping into the fabric at the
stitching line (never extending under
both sides of the presser foot).
STARTING A SEAM
1. Set stitch length selector for desired
number of stitches per inch.
2. With presser foot up, align fabric with
appropriate seam guideline on needle
plate (as described on the following
page). Position needle in fabric about
i inch from the back edge.
3. Lower presser foot. Backstitch to the
edge of the fabric for reinforcement
by pushing in the reverse-stitch push
button located in the center of the
stitch length selector dial. Hold the
button until the stitches reach the edge
of the fabric and then release for
forward stitching.
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