SINGER 513 User Manual

CONGRATULATIOMS .

You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new
Sty/ist"^ Zig-Zag Sewing Machine by SINGER. We know you are eager to

get started on a sewing project... but we urge you to become familiar with
this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the benefit of all
the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that you keep
the following points in mind :

choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the

da'

wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or

faulty stitching. The Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table on page 10 will

help you make a perfect choice.

sew with a bent or blunt needle. If the needle is damaged—or
improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause skipped
stitches. See page 8 for instructions.

follow the instructions on page 14 for threading the machine.

forget to place the thread properly when you Insert a wound

bobbin. Page 13 tells you how to do this perfectly.

become familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length

djy

ddnnt'

Above all, (/o enjoy sewing I

(page 17), presser-foot pressure (page 18), and thread tension
(page 18). Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine !

allow lint and thread ends to accumulate in the bobbin case
area—they can cause jamming or excessive noise. Clean
your machine regularly, as instructed on page 52.

remember that expert, dependable SINGER* service is always
available. If your sewing machine should require maintenance or
repair, be sure to call your Singer Sewing Center or Authorized Singer

Dealer. You will find the number listed under SINGER COMPANY in
your telephone book.

Copyright © 1972 THE SINGER COMPANY

Page

Getting to Know Your Sif\IGER'^ Sewing IVIachine ..... 2

Principal Parts—And What They Do ...........

Accessories—^And When to Use Them ............................ 6

Getting Ready to Sew.............................................................................. 9

Preliminary Steps . ........................................................................ 9

Choosing Needle and Thread ....................... 10

Threading Your Sewing Machine .

Stitching................................................................................ 16

Adjusting Selectors ........................................................................ 17

Sewing a Seam ................................. 19

.....

.................................. 11

....

.............

2

-Zag Stitching

Basic Zig-Zag Patterns ............................ 22

Satin Stitching

Flexi-Stitch^‘’' Patterns................................................................ 26

TwiO“l\leedie Stitching........................................................................... 29

Preparation..................................................................................... 29

Threading the Needle

Buttons and Byitonholes

Buttons ....................................................................................... 31

Buttonholes

Sewing the Professional Way .

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric .

Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics

Construction Details.................................................................... 42

Decorative Touches.....................................................................

Keeping Up Appearances........................................................... 48

Caring For Your Machine .................................................................... 52

Cleaning and Lubricating the Machine

Removing Covers, Bobbin Case, and Bulb ............. 53

Removing Machine From Cabinet. ................... 56

Performance Checklist

.......

.......................................................................... 22

...

.......................................................................... 25

.................................................................

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...

............................................................................. 32

............................................................

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...

.............................................................. 57

.......................... 35

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....................................... . 35

.................................................. 40

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..................................... 52

30

31

46

Fashion^ Aids........................................................................................ 58

Your Personal Measurement Chart .................. 59

Index....................................................................................................... 60

principal parts

10 Spool Pin

SINGER SEWING

1. Bobbîiîi-V¥indIer Tension Disc regulates thread tension for bobbin winding,

2. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. Has eight numbered settings
and a special setting for darning.

3. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.

4c Presser-Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and lower presser

foot. High-lift position allows easy placement of bulky fabrics.

8c Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience.

6, Needle Ciamp holds single and twin needles and is designed to eliminate the

possibility of inserting needle backwards.

7. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. The feet snap off for quick removal.

8c Needle Plat® lifts out for easy removal. Guidelines on right and left sides extend to

slide plate to help you keep seams straight.

9c Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.

^¡n and Felt. Pin holds thread spools of various sizes. Felt helps thread

unvv/ind smoothly.

Bobbin-WSoder Switch and Bobbin

quickly and easily.

12c Hand positions take-up lever and needle. Ai’ways turn it towards you.

13c fiexi-Stitch Dial sets the machine for Flexi-Stitch pattern sewing and varies the

balance oi Ffexi-Stitch patterns in order to obtain desired pattern appearance.

Did! must be set on 0 {off) position when not in use.

14c Sewing Light illuminates the sewing area.

Holder let you fill the bobbin vin’th thread

15c Needle-Thread Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch,

thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replacement of the bobbin, and raises and
iov\/ersthe pin that holds the needle plate in place.

PRINCIPAL PARTS (Continued)

17. Pattern Selector lets you select plain zig-zag ( § ) or blindstitch ( i ) zig-zag

patterns; also ric-rac ( ^ ) or slant overedge ( ^ ) f/ex/-5f/rc/i patterns.

18. Stitch Width Selector controls the width of zig-zag stitching and positions needle

for straight stitching. Use 5 setting for straight stitching.

19. Weedle-Position Selector places needle in either left center or right stitching

position. Use center position for straight stitching.

20. Stitch Control Dial allows for a variety of stitch lengths, including FINE for zig-zag

satin stitching. Has special setting F!exi-Stitch pattern sewing.

21. Reverse-Stitch Push Bution lets you reverse stitching direction.

17 Pattern Selector

Hand Wheel Knob engages hand
wheel to sewing mechanism. Loosen
knob for bobbin winding.

Transparent Bobbin shows thread

supply ... is easily removed for

bobbin winding.

Power and Light Switch turns on
the power and the sewing
simultaneously.

Electrical Conneciioris and

Speed Controller are designed for

convenience and safety.

23 Transparent ,

Bobbin .

/

See instructions for connecting machine
and operating machine and controller on

page 9.

The accessories that come with your StyUst sewing machine will help you to
sew with ease and comfort. They are simple to use and place a variety of
sewing effects at your fingertips. Additional accessories, lisied on page 58,

are available for purchase at your Singer Sewing Center.

General Purpose General Purpose

Foot Needle Plate

E FOOT

Ai\SD I^EEDLE PLATE

The general purpose foot and the genera!

purpose needle plate are in place on the
machine. Use them for all utility sewing,
with either straight or zig-zag stitching.

The zipper foot is used to place stiiching
close to a raised edge. It can be fitted to
the presser-fooi shank for use on either
right or left side of the needle. Use it for:

® Corded seams
© Tubular cording

special Purpose Foot

Bfindstitch Hem Guide

® Zipper insertion

SPECIAL PURPORT FOOT

The special purpose foot is used for all

kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use
this foot for :

® Zig-zag satin stitching
® Ornamentai stitching yylth Fiexi-Stitch

patterns
® Applique
® Buttonholes
® Twin-needle stitching

iEIV

The blindstitch hem guide is used v/ith the
general purpose foot to position the hem
fold for blindstitch hemming (page 44).
To attach, simply loosen presser-fooi
screw and slip guide between screw and

presser-foot shank. Position guide so that
it clears both slide plate and presser-foot
toe. Tighten screw.

FEEO^COVER WEEDLE PLATE

The feed-cover needle plate is used in

place of the general purpose needle plate
when fabric feeding is not desired. Use
it for button sewing (page 31) and free­motion darning (page 51).

CHAWOiWG WEEDLE PLATE

® Raise presser foot. (You do not need

to remove the foot.)

Needle Plate

Positioning Pin

Turn hand wheel toward you

needle is in its highest position.
Open slide plate with downward finger

pressure. Draw plate toward you, open
ing it aH the way to raise the needle
plate locking pin and unlock the needle
plate.

Place thumb under needle plate and

draw plate to the right to remove.

Insert new needle plate under locking
pin and over positioning pin.

Close slide plate to lower locking pin

and secure the needle plate.

PRESSER FEET

The presser feet that are supplied with

your machine snap on and off a common

shank. To change the foot:

until

® Raise presser-foot lifter and turn hand

wheel toward you to raise needle to its
highest position.

® Press toe of presser foot upward (as

far as it will go) and then snap down
to remove the foot.

® Center the new presser foot under the

shank and lower the presser-foot lifter

so that shank fits over the presser-foot

pin.

@ Press down on presser-foot screw until

foot snaps into place.

Shank

Foot

Changing Presser Foot

7

ACCESSORIES (Continued)

I

WEEDLES
© Style # 2020 needles for all-purpose

sewing.

© Style # 2045, ball-point (yellow band)

needles, for sewing knits and stretch

fabrics.

© Style #2028, twin needle, for decora

tive twin-needle stitching.

Regular Needle

(Yellow Band) Needle

Ball-point

Twin Needle

ilVIPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing
machine has been designed to obtain
best results with SINGER needles. You
should follow the recómmendations in
this instruction book on the needle pack

age for correct style and size of needle for

different types and weights of fabrics.

CHAWGING THE NEEDLE
The needle clamp is designed so that the

needle can only be inserted with the flat
side of the needle to the back. To change
the needle:

1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,
loosen needle-clamp screw, and re
move needle.

2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the
flat side of the needle to the back; push
it up as far as it will go.

3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.

BOBBINS

Transparent, drop-in bobbin, # 172336,
shows thread supply at a glance.

8

GETTING READY TO SEW

steps

Before plugging in your machine, be sure
that the voltage and number of cycles
indicated on the plate under the hand
wheel conform to your electrical power
supply.

Push the machine plug into the receptacle
at the right end of the machine bed. Then
connect the power-line plug to your
electrical outlet.

OPERÄTIWG MACHIWE AMD

To turns on both machine and sewing
light, press power and light switch to ON
position (red bar on switch vi/ill be visible).

'To turn off machine and light, press

switch at red bar to OFF position.

When leaving the machine

unattended or before changing needies,

presser feet and needle plates, turn off

the power and light switch and dis
connect the power-line plug from the

electrical supply socket.

This eliminates the possibility of oper
ating the machine by accidentally press
ing the speed controller.

To run the machine, press the speed
controller. The harder you press, the faster

the machine will sew.
To stop the machine from sewing,

remove pressure from speed controller.

ow

OFF

Power and Light Switch

Speed Controller

The needle and thread you choose selection. Refer to it before siariing
will depend upon the fabric being a sewing project. Be sure to use the
stitched. The table below is a same size and type of thread in both

practical guide to needle and thread needle and bobbin.

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE

Needles

Fabric

Thread

Type

Size

DELICATE — tulle, chiffon.

fine lace, organza and cotton thread

LIGHTWEIGHT —batiste. 50 mercerized cotton

organdy, jersey, voile, taffeta.

crepe, chiffon, velvet, plastic film

MEDIUM WEIGHT —gingham.
percale, piqué, linen, chintz.

faille, satin, fine corduroy, velvet,
suitings, deep-pile fabrics,
vinyl

MEDIUM HEAVY —gabardine.

tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings. mercerized cotton
drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile
fabrics

HEAVY — overcoatings.
denim, upholstery fabrics. mercerized cotton
canvas

Fine polyester, nylon.

"A” silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester

50 mercerized cotton
60 cotton
"A" silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester

Heavy-duty

40 to 60 cotton

Polyester thread

Heavy-duty

24 to 40 cotton

Polyester thread

STYLE

2020

(15 X 1)

STYLE

2020

(15x1)

STYLE

2020

(15x1)

STYLE

2020

(15 X 1)

STYLE

2020

(15 X 1)

9

11

14

16

18

ALL WEIGHTS — decorative
straight stitch topstitching

in woven fabrics

KNIT, WOVEN STRETCH "A” nylon

and ELASTIC FABRICS —

polyester doubleknit, spandex.

nylon tricot, ciré tricot, jersey,

panné velvet

LEATHER — suede, kidskin. 50 mercerized cotton

capeskin, lambskin, lined Polyester thread

leathers

LIGHT and MEDIUM

WEIGHTS — decorative
twin-needle stitching

in woven fabrics

10

“D” siikf

(Buttonhole twist) .

50 mercerized cotton

“A" silk
Cotton-wrapped
polyester

"A” silk

Cotton-wrapped
polyester

50 mercerized cotton

fUse with 50 mercerized cotton or "’A" silk in bobblOo

STYLE

2020

(15x1)

STYLE

2045

Bail-Point

(Yellow Band)

STYLE

2032

(15 X 2)

STYLE

2028

(twin)

16
or

18

14

11

14
16

14

Like all sewing machines thaï produce
what is called a "lockstitch", your Stylist
sewing machine sews with two threads.
The upper thread comes from the spool
and is threaded through the eye of the
needle. The lower thread comes from the
bobbin, the small transparent spool that
you wind using the machine. It is best
to wind the bobbin before threading the
needle.

E BOBBIN THREAD

Winding the Bobbin

® Raise the presser foot and turn the

hand wheel toward you until needle is
at its highest position.

® Loosen the hand wheel knob by turn

ing it toward you with the right hand
while holding the hand wheel with the
left hand.

® Open slide plate to make bobbin

accessible.

® Lift out bobbin and close slide plate to

make sure needle plate Is secure while
winding.

Loosening Hand Wheel Knob

Removing Bobbin

11

THE BOBBIN THREAD (Continued)

Bobbin Winder Switch

Tightening Hand Wheel Knob

Place thread spool on spool pin over
felt. Lead thread around bobbin winder
tension disc and through small hole in

bobbin (from the inside).

Place bobbin on holder and turn bobbin

winder switch to WIND,

Hold thread as shown and start the
machine, winding at moderate speed.
Cut off thread end when winding is
well under way.

When required amount of thread has
been wound (winding will stop by
itself when bobbin is full), stop the
machine and cut connecting thread.

Turn bobbin winder switch to SEW

and remove bobbin from holder.

12

Tighten hand v\/heel knob.

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Open slide plate. Hold bobbin so that
thread unwinds in direction shown,
and put bobbin in bobbin case.

2. Pull thread into notch, draw it under
tension spring and back into slot.

3. Draw about three inches of thread

/

:rr2"K...

THE WEEDLETHREAD

14

Threading the Needle
1, Turn hand wheel toward you to raise

needle to its highest position and raise

presserfootto release the tension discs.

2. Place spool of thread on spool pin
over felt and lead thread through all

threading points shown.

<t Thread take-up lever from back to

front, guiding thread down over top
of lever and then up into eyelet.

® Thread needle from front to back,

drawing about three inches of thread
through eye of needle.

RAiSiÍ\lG THE BOBBiW THREAD

Mow thaï you have wound the bobbin and
threaded the needle, you will need to
raise the bobbin thread through the needle

hole in the needle plate.

1. Hold needle thread lightly with left

hand and turn hand wheel slowly

toward you so that needle enters hole

in needle plate.

Continue turning hand wheel and

holding needle thread until needle
rises. Tighten your hold on the needle
thread and bring up bobbin thread in a

loop.

3. Open the loop with your fingers.

4. Place both needle and bobbin threads
under presser foot, and draw to back

of machine.

are now ready to sew

Í

X. j

15

FieKi-Stitck Pattern Dial Off

STRAIGHT STITCHING

© Fiexi-Stitch Pattern Dia!: O (Off)
© Pattern Selector: Any setting
® Needle Position : i
® Stitch Width : s
® Stitch Length :‘To suit fabric
# General Purpose Needle Plate
® General Purpose Foot

Before you move the selectors to set your
sewing machine for siraiglit stitching,
turn the hand wheel toward you until the

needle is above the needle plate.

SETTiWG THE ifViACHII\IE

© Turn FiexhSiitch pattern dial to off

position 0.

l^eedie Position

1 ? ?

! / >

® Move needle position selector to

(center).

® Set stitch width selector on \ .

STARTING TO SEW

® Place needle and bobbin threads under

presser foot and draw to back of
machine.

® Position the needle in the fabric where

desired for stitching start.

® Lower the presser foot and start the

machine.

To sew perfectly on a wide variety of
fabrics, adjust stitch length, pressure and
thread tension as instructed on the
following pages.

For in formation on straight stretch stitch-

turn to page 26.

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length dial regulates the length

of stitches. The numbers on the dial ex
press stitch length in stitches per inch;
the higher the number, the shorter the
stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best
for lightweight fabric; longer ones for
heavy fabric. The FINE area is used for the
adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching.

Setting the Selector

@ Turn dial so that the stitch length

desired is positioned under the V
symbol on the control panel.

® To shorten the stitch length, turn the

dial clockwise to a higher number.

® To lengthen the stitch, turn the dial

counterclockwise to a lower number.

Stitch Length Dial

For reverse stitching, press the reverse-

stitch push button (located in the center

of the dial) in as far as it will go and hold
in place (the button can be pushed in

while the machine is sewing). Release

pressure on the push button to return to

forward stitching.

{For detailed instructions on adjusting
the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching,
see page 25.)

Reverse Stitching

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

Pressure Dial

i

Numbered settings on pressure dial will

assist you in obtaining correct pressure
for fabric you are using. Setting 4 is an
ail purpose setting for sewing a wide
variety of fabrics of different weights and
textures. Settings above and below
setting 4 are also provided. When you

need extra control, regulate the setting
to heavier or lighter pressure to suit fabric
being sewn.

When darning without an embroidery

hoop, set dial at lowest setting, D. See

page 50 for instructions.

Lower I [ _

Fo^T^'' Adjusting Pressure

ncrease

Decrease

Lowerpresser foot before setting pressure,

©To increase pressure, turn dial to higher

number.

® To decrease pressure, turn dial to lower

number.

REGyLATII\IG THREAD TEi\ISiOi\i
Correct tension is important because too

much or too little will weaken your seams

or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a
test sample with fabric and thread you

plan to use and examine it. A perfect stitch

will have needle and bobbin threads
locked between two layers of fabric with
no loops on top or bottom and no puckers.

The tension dial regulates the degree of
tension on your needle thread. Set it
according to the type of thread and fabric
you use. The numbers on the dial eliminate
guesswork in duplicating settings.

Correct

Adjusting Thread Tension

18

If the stitches in your test sample look
loose, increase needle-thread tension. If

the fabric puckers, decrease tension.

® To increase tension, turn dial to higher

number.

® To decrease tension, turn dial to lower

number.

sewma a seam

Pin basting is a time-saver and can be
used when you sew easy-io-handle

fabric. Use fine pins and place them

® On top of the fabric (never on the

underside in contact wnth the feed).

® At right angles to the stitching line.

® Just nipping into the fabric at the

stitching fine (never extending under
both sides of the presser foot).

ITARTiWG A SEAIVI

r>1i

ill

Set stitch length dial, for desired
number of stitches per inch.

2. With presser foot up, align fabric with
appropriate seam guideline on needle
plate (as described on the following
page). Position needle in fabric about

i inch from the back edge.

3. Lower presser foot. Backstitch to the
edge of the fabric for reinforcement by
pushing in the reverse-stitch push
button located in the center of the
stitch length dial. Hold the button
until the stitches reach the edge of the

fabric and then release for forward
stitching.

STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)

.3/8"

.1/2"

■3/4"

5/8"

As you siiicfl, use one of the numbered

fines on the needle plate as a guide for
keeping the seams straight. Numbers
indicate distance, in eighths of an inch,

from the needle. If you want a f-inch
seam, for example, keep the right-hand
edge of your fabric on the number 5
guideline.

TORWIWG SQOAPaE CORil\lEBS

To turn a square corner f inch from the

Tabric edge, you need not measure or mark

the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the

slide plate.

20

Line up your fabric with right or left

guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch

seam, slewing speed as you approach

corner.
Stop stitching. With the needle down,

when the bottom edge of the fabric

reaches the cornering crosslines on

the slide plate.

Raise presser foot and turn fabric on
needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric
in line with guideline 5.

Lower the presser foot and stitch in new

direction.

GUiOlWiG AWiD SUPPOB.Tir\lG

Most fabrics need only to be guided in

front of the presser foot. Some fabrics,

however, require support while being
stitched. Filmy sheers, panne velvet, and
tricots, for example, need to be held taut

in front and back'of the presser foot while

being sewn.

For information on sewing knit and
stretch fabrics with zig-zag stitching,

refer to page 35.

1, Stitch to the fabric edge.

2, Push in reverse-stitch push button and

backstitch 4 inch to reinforce the end
of the seam.

Gyiding Fabric

3. Raise presser foot and remove fabric
by drawing it to the back and left.

4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of
presser bar.

Supporting Fabric

21

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING

The zig-zag stitches built into your sewing machine include basic zig-zag

patterns and F/exi-Stitch patterns. Basic zig-zag patterns and their selector

settings are shown below; information on Flexl-Stitch patterns starts on

page 26. You will find instructions for both decorative and practical uses of

these patterns in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way"

beginning on page 35.

BASIC ZIG-ZAG PATTERNS

Plain Zig-Zag Stitch. Used for buttonholes, button sewing, bar tacks and

appliqué.

Blindstitch. Indispensable for finishing hems and seam edges and for zipper
insertion.

TO SEW A ZIG-ZAG STITCH

Turn Ffexi-Stitch dial to off setting 0.

FlexFStitch Dial Off

For Zig-Zag Stitching

Set pattern selector for stitch desired.
Adjust stitch length, stitch placement,

stitch width and needle-thread tension
as instructed on the following pages.

SETTING PATTERN SELECTOR

Set the stitch width on \ before moving

pattern selector dial.

The pattern selector, located above the
stitch width selector on the front of the

machine, controls stitch selection.

og

© Move selector dial toward

For Bfindstitchirig

Pattern Selector

22

For Blindststching

® Move selector dial toward

Before moving stitch width and needie

position selectors make sure needle is

above fabric.

ADJUSTING WIDTH OF

To produce a zig-zag stitch pattern, move
the stitch width selector from straight
stitch setting i to any zig-zag setting to
the right. StitcH width is increased as the
selector is moved to the right.

ADJUSTING STITCH

PLACEMENT

Most of your basic zig-zag stitching will
be done in center ( ) needle position.

Left ( ) and right ( J ) settings are
used for special stitch placement, as in
buttonhole sewing, button sewing, and

twin-needlework.

Adjusting Stitch Width

Twin-Needle
Work Decorative
Buttonhole Sewing Stitching
Button Sewing at Narrow

Most used Widths
Setting for

Single Needie
Work

Adjusting Stitch Placement

ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD

Zig-Zag stitching requires less needle­thread tension than straight stitching.

Make a test sample with the fabric and

thread you plan to use so that you can
adjust the tension properly. The stitches
should lie flat against the fabric without
causing the fabric to pucker.

If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is
puckered, reduce needle-thread tension
by turning the dial to a lower number.

-V ^ :

Correct

Adjusting P^eedie-Thread Tension

23

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND CHOOSING
ACCESSORIES

ADJUSTIiVJG STITCH LEWGTH

Any stitch length setting from 6 to 25 will
give you an open zJg-zag stitch of the

basic zig-zag stitch pattern you select.
The lower the number, the more open, or
farther apart, your stitches will be. The

FINE stitch area, betv\/een 0 and 25 on the
dial, is used for adjusting zig-zag satin
stitching (see next page for specific in
structions).

When using the plain zig-zag or blindsiitch

patterns, be sure the Fiexi-Stitch dial is in

off position 0.

Turn to page 18 under "Straight Stitching" for instructions on
adjusting pressure.

For information on choosing accessories, refer to pages 6 and 7
and to detailed instructions for sewing with zig-zag stitch patterns
included in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way" that

starts on page 35.

General Purpose

Foot

General Purpose

Needle Plate

Zipper Foot

24

Special Purpose

1

General Purpose Needle Plate
Special Purpose Foot
Pressure: 2 or 3

1. Turn stitch length selector dial to 25
(the beginning of FINE area).

2. Run machine at a slow speed.

3. Gradually turn the stitch length dial
clockwise until stitches are closely
spaced and form a smooth surface.

Adjostiog Thread Teosiori
Satin stitching requires less tension than

straight stitching or open zig-zag stitch

ing. Furthermore, the wider the stitch, the
fighter the tension on the thread musí be.

Notice the stitching on your sample. If the
fabric is puckered, lower the needle­thread tension by turning the tension dial,
to a lower number.

Adjusting Thread Tension

2K

With your Siy/ist sewiiig machine you can sew three Flex/Stitch patterns.

Instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these patterns begin
on page 35.

FLEXi-STiTCH PATTER MS

Ric-Rac Stitch. An open, reinforced zig-zag stitch for heavy-duty stretch
sewing and decorative work.

Slant Overedge Stitch. Lets you seam and overedge in one operation.

Straight Stretch Stitch. A triple straight stitch, indispensable for seam
ing knit, stretch, and elasticized fabric.

FLEXI-STITCH

fiexi-Stitch Dial

i|

For Ric-Rac Stitch

For Slant Overedge Stitch

< •

< •

or

To Sew a Fiexi-Stitch Patterò

Use Red Selector Settings
® Set F/exFSîiich dial on red i .
© Set pattern selector for desired stitch.

Set stitch control dial on red .

® Adjust stitch placement, stitch width,

thread tension, and stitch balance as
instructed on the following pages.

Setting Stitch Pattern Selector

Set the stitch yvidth selector on i before

moving the pattern selector dial.

For Ric-Rac Stitch

© Move pattern selector io^^.

For Slant Overedge Stitch
® Move pattern selector to

For Straight Stretch Stitch

(at Stitch Width \ )

Setting Pattern Selector

For Straight Stretch Stitch
® Any pattern selector setting at stitch

width 1 .

Before moving needle position and stitch

width selectors make sure needle is above

fabric.

To produce a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the
stitch width selector must be moved from
the straight-stitch setting j , to a setting
from I to j . Stitch

Width Is increased

as the selector is moved to the right.

Adjusting Width of Design

ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT

flexFStitch patterns can be sewn In either

L (left), X (center) or J (right)

needle positions. Center needle position

X is recommended.

ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD

Make a test sample with the fabric, thread,
and presser foot you plan to use so that
you can adjust tension to suit the stitch
pattern you have chosen.

Special'
Stitch
Placement
Only

Most Used

Setting

Adjusting Stitch Placement

Incorrect

■ \

Special
Stitch
Placement
Only

For your test sample, set the tension dial

on 3 or 4. Notice the stitching; if the
fabric puckers, decrease tension by turn

ing the dial to a lower number. Sew at
moderatespeed.

Correct

Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension

27

FLEXi-SmCH PATTERNS (Continued)

Red Bar

incorrect

-^Г-ГГ^ГП^ГТТШ

Correct

SETTiPJG STITCH LE^JGTHi DIAL

When you use a Flexi-Stitch paiiern,
stitch length is controlled with a single
setting of the stitch length dial.
To set turn dial until red bar cia is cen

tered under the V symbol on the control

panel.

Stitching cannot be reversed
when the Fiexi-Stitch dial is on red
Fiexi-Stitch pattern setting.

AfDJlJSTii\lG STITCH BALAI^ICE
You may need to adjust the Flexi-Stitch

dial when using a Flexi-St/tch pattern in
order to achieve the correct pattern
appearance. Before you move the Fiexl-
St/tch dial from its neutral position (red

bar f] cerstered under V)/ make a test

sample. If adjustment is required, stitch
slowly and move the dial as you s^ew„

Turn Dia! to Right to Bring

Stitches Together

Incorrect

Correct

77/77777777777 II II Г

Turn Dial to Left to

Separate Stitches

Adjusting Stitch Balance

® Turn the dial to the right to bring

stitches of the pattern together.

® Turn the dial to the left to separate

stitches of the pattern.

ADJUSTiWG PRESSURE AND

Turn to page 18 under "Straight Stitching"
for instructions on adjusting pressure.

For information on choosing accessories

refer to detailed instructions for sewing
with f/exASf/Yc/? patterns included in the
section called "Sewing the Professional

Way", which starts on page 35.

28

TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING

By using a twin needle, you can produce

two parallel, closely spaced, decorative

lines of stitching simultaneously. You

can use either one or two colors of thread,
and you can choose either a straight“
stitch, zig-zag stitch, or blindstitch setting.

Straight Stitching

Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)

Pattern Selector: Any setting
Needle Position : Jss or oniy
Stitch Vi/idth : »
Stitch Length : Optional
General-Purpose Needle Plate
General-Purpose Foot

Flexi-Stitch Dial Off

Straight Stitching

Fiexi-Stitch Dial Off

Fiexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)

Pattern Selector: J (for plain zig-zag)
or j (blindstitch)

Needle Position : only
Stitch Width : See illustrations at right
Stitch Length : Optional
General-Purpose Needle Plate
General-Purpose Foot (Open Stitching)
Special-Purpose Foot (Satin Stitching)

Zig-Zag Stitching

29

TWIN NEEDLE STITCHING (Continued)

Use SINGER*^' Twin Needle Style# 2028 (size 14)

iWSERTiWG THE TWiW WEEDLE

Before inserting the twin needle, make
sure that the needle position selector is
set at L stitch width

does not exceed the settings shown on

page 29.
To insert the twin needle, simply raise

needle to highest point and loosen the
needle-clamp screw. Remove single

needle and insert the twin needle in its
place. Tighten needle-clamp screw
securely.

threading for twin-needle stitching

For best results, use No. 50 mercerized cotton thread.

Thread the machine in the same manner as for single-needle stitching
except :

1. Be sure that threads are separated by center tension disc as they pass
around tension assembly.

2. Carry only one thread through the last guide before the needle.

30

BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES

® Flexi-Stitch Dial: O
® Pattern Selector: J (plain zig-zag)
® Needle Position: ^ (left)
® General-Purpose Presser Foot
© Feed-Cover Needle Plate

Fiat buttons can be sewn on quickly and
easily using the plain zig-zag stitch. The
space between the holes in the button
determines stitch width settings. For
buttons with standard hole spacing, use
settings I and | as shown. For buttgns
with unusual hole spacing, use setting \
and increase or decrease the width { g )
as necessary.

1. Attach feed-cover needle plate (see
page 7), and turn Flexi-StHch dial to 0.

2. Set stitch width at j and needle
position at L (left). Position button
under foot and lower needle into
center of left hole by turning hand
wheel toward you. Lower foot. Turn
hand wheel toward you until needle
rises out of button and is just above the

foot.

3. Set stitch width at medium-wide zig

zag ( I ) setting. Check stitch width

by turning hand wheel slowly toward

you; the needle should enter the right

hole of the button. Take six or more

zig-zag stitches to attach button. End
on leftside.

4. To fasten stitching, return to stitch
width i and take three or four stitches.

s

Replace feed-cover needle plate with the

general-purpose needle plate when work

is completed.

NOTE: For best results, and when using

buttons less than one Inch In diameter,
the button sewing foot is recommended

(see page 58).

31

Horizontal Placement

on Crosswise Grain

Vertical Placement on

Lengthwise Grain

Accurate guideiines are essential to keep

buttonholes a uniform distance from the

faced edge of the garment, evenly spaced,

and on the grain of the fabric. For center

closures, place guidelines as follows :

1. Mark the center line of the garment as
indicated on your pattern. This guide
line can be hand basted and should

follow a lengthwise fabric thread.

2, Mark a position guideline for each

buttonhole.

® Horizontal button holes are placed

to extend 4 ^-nch beyond the center-

line basting of the garment. Hori
zontal guidelines for the buttonholes

should follow a crossvi/lse thread

of the fabric and, if basted, be

longer than the finished length of
the buttonhole. Determine the length
of the buttonhole (as described

below) and mark ends of each

buttonhole verticayy.

Button
Opening

Length of

Button

Opening

Buttonhole

Length Guide

Markings

Button
Opening

Buttonhole

Stitching

@ Vertical buttonholes are placed so

that the center-Hine basting of the
garment is in iha center of the

buttonholes. Determine buitonhoie

length and mark ends of each but
tonhole horszonially across the cen
ter line and use the cenier-line
basting as a buttonhole guide ’when
stitching.

BOTTONHOLE LENGTH

First, decide how long the button opening
must be. Then, add^V ^nch to the measure
ment for each bar tack (the closing

stitches at each end of the buttonhole).
To find the length of the button opening,

cut a slit in a scrap of fabric the diameter
of the button you intend to use. Increase
length of opening until button slips

through easily.

32

STITCH WIDTH

Two stitch width settings are required for rnaking buttonholes: one for side
stitching and one for the bar tack. Two possible combinations are illustrated.

Selector Setting

for Bar Tack

Selector Setting
for Side Stitching

Selector Setting

for Side Stitching

Procedyre

Set flexI-Stitch dial at 0 and set siiich
length in FINE area of stitch length dial.
Attach special purpose foot.
Set the pattern selector at g , needle
position selector at , and stitch width
selector at the width desired for the side
stiichifig. Place work under needle, align
ing center marking of buttonhole with
center slot In the special purpose foot.

Selector Setting

for Bar Tack

Side Stitciimg

Position needle in fabric at point
Lower foot and siiich to end of marking.

Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise
foot and pivot work on needle. Lower
foot. Take one stitch without changing
width setting, bringing work to point C.

Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks

and take at least six stitches. Stop at point

33

BUTTONHOLES (Continued)

Side Stitching
Readjust stitch width selector for side

stitching. Complete work to point E.

Leave needle in fabric.

i I I I

s §

Final Bar Tack

Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks,
and take at least six stitches ending at
point F.

Fastening Stitch

To secure stitching, move selector to j
and take three stitches. Remove work,

draw threads to underside, fasten, and
trim. Cut opening for button with sharp
scissors.

34

F®

SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY

When you sew stretch fabric, doubleknit, tricot and jersey, choose one of
the stitch patterns that sew stretch into the seam. A variety of different
stitches are available so you can choose just the right one for your fabric and
sewing job. The table below will help you make the right selection.

Remember to use a bail-point needle (Style# 2045) in the machine and
increase presser bar pressure when you attach elastic or sew a synthetic
knit or stretch fabric.

STRETCH STITCH CHART

Stitch

Straight Stretch Stitch

Plain Zig-Zag Stitch All-purpose stretch sewing—Lingerie seams—

hndstiich

<

Where to Use

Plain seams that s-t-r-e-t-c-h (press-open or

closed construction)—'Crotch seaming—Sleeve

and gusset insertion—Flexible topstitching—•
Swim and ski suit construction—Attaching patch
pockets—Repairing and reinforcing seams.

Attaching stay tapes—Seam finishing—Edge

finishing—Attaching stretch lace.

Flexible blindstitch hemming—Overcast seam

finishing—Shell hems in lingerie—Ladder seams

—Blindstitch zipper insertion.

Ric-Rac Stitch

Slant Overedge Stitch

Heavy-duty, all-purpose stretch sewing—Re
versible topstitch applications.

Overedged seams that stretch in sportswear,

knitwear, slacks, and bathing suits.

35

SEWÜ'MG KNÜ'AND STRETCH FABRIC (Continued)

Straight Stretch Stitching

F!exi-Stitch Dial: Red I
Pattern Selector: Any Setting

Needle Position :X
Stitch Width: \

Stitch Length Dial: Red ^

©

General-Purpose Needle Plate

©

General-Purpose or
Special-Purpose Foot

© Speed : Moderate

When you use the straight stretch
stitch to seam knit stretch, and
elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and
strength are built in as the seam is

being sevA/n. Because it is equally

useful for closed or press-open
seam construction and will not break
thread under stress, the straight

stretch stitch is also good for seams
that receive an unusual amount of strain
when worn. For example : crotch seaming,
sleeve insertion, and construction seams
in sportswear and bathing suits.

1. Make a test sample to determine
thread tension and stitch balance.

Be sure to insert a bali-point (yellow
band) needle in machine if you are
stitching a synthetic knit fabric, and
increase presser-bar pressure if neces
sary.

2. Stitch and guide fabric as you do for
plain seams stitched with the regular

straight stitch, letting the machine
make the back-and-forth stitches that
give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam, if
fabric has an unusual amount of
elasticity, it should be stitched under
tension as instructed under "Guiding
and Supporting Fabric" (see below).

Press seam as when using the regular

straight stitch.

GOIDiWG AMD ,
FABRIC

Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction
need only to be guided in front of the
presser foot when you use one of the

stretch stitches. Simply increase presser
bar pressure and let the machine move
the fabric to make the stitches that give
S'-i-r-e~t-c-h to the seam,.

Applying Genife Tension

36

Some fabrics, however, require support
while being stitched.

© For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet and

similar synthetic knits, apply gentle
tension by holding fabric taut in front
and back of the presser foot as you sew.

ATTAC

IG ELASTIC

Elastic will remain streichabie when it is

attached with the plain zig-zag stitch.
The flexible joining produced by this
stitch allows elastic banding to be
stitched under, over, or between fabric

layers, making it pariicuiarly useful in the
construction of lingerie and swimsuits,,

® Flexi-Stitch Dial : O (Off)

© Pattern Selector: § (plain zig-zag)

® Needle Position : X
@ Stitch Width : (maximum)

® Stitch Length : About 20
® General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

Seams in knit and stretch fabrics can be

joined and finished in one operation with
the slant overedge stretch stitch.

Attaching Elastic with

Plain Zig-Zag

® Flexi-Stitch Dial: Red I
® Pattern Selector: ^ (slant overedge)
® Needle Position:
® Stitch Width:

© Stitch Length Dial: Red ^
© General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

® Speed; Moderate

(maximum)

TvA/0 different methods may be used.

Method # 1 (overedging) is recommended

for firm fabrics in garments where a J-

inch seam allowance is adequate. Method
#2 (mock overedging) is most appro
priate for bulky knits and fabrics that have

a tendency to curl or fray and should be

used where a wider seam allowance is
needed. Make a test sample to help you

decide which method is best for your
fabric and garment. Be sure to duplicate
the cut of the garment seam in your test.

Remember to use a ball-point (yellow
band). Style 2045, Size 14 needle in

your machine if you are sewing a syn

thetic knit.

fVlock Overedging

37

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC (Continued)

A ladder seam made with bisndstiiching is
both functional and decorative. Particu
larly appropriate for knit and stretch
fabrics, the blindstitch provides stretch
able, decorative construction seams, and
edge finishes for necklines, pockets and

collars in sportswear and swimwear.

® Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)
® Pattern Selector: ^ (blindstitch)
® Needle Position : i
® Stitch Width ; 5 (maximum)
® Stitch Length : 10 to 15
® Thread Tension : Lighter than normal
® General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

After stitching, open seam by pulling
fabric back on opposite sides of seam to

produce ladder effect. Press seam allow
ances of construction seams to one side.
Seam allowances of enclosed seams are

Opening Seam to form

Ladder Effect

pressed together in the usual way after

seam has been opened.

LADDER SEAMS

Applying

Facing Finish

"inished Hem Edge

38

FINISHES FOR HEMS AND
FACINGS

Hems and facing edges in knit and stretch

fabrics will be less apt to press through

and mark when given a flat edge finish.
Edge finishing with the plain zig-zag
stitch or blindstitch eliminates the bulk of
turned-in edges and retains fabric flexi-

® Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)
® Pattern Selector: ^ (plain zig-zag)

or ^ (blindstitch)
© Needle Position : ^
® Stitch Width: ^ (maximum)
© Stitch Length : 8-20 (depending on fabric)
® General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

1. Make a test sample.

2. Place stitching close to hem or facing
edge.

3. Press after stitching and trim away
excess fabric close to the stitching line,
if necessary.

LiWGERIE SEAIVIS

To make seams in lingerie durable and
flexible, use a combination of straight and
zig-zag stitching.

For f-inch bias seam in woven fabric:
© Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch

width at I ) on wrong side of fabric.

® Press both seam allowances in the

same direction. Then, from the right

■ side, top-stitch with narrow zig-zag
stitching, letting needle alternately
enter seam line and seam thickness.

For narrow seams in nylon tricot:

® Cut fabric for f-inch seam allowance.
® Straight-stitch seam line on wrong side

of fabric. Then place a line of medium
wide, open zig-zag stitching close to
the straight stitching.

;hes

® Fiexi-Stitch Dial; O (Off)
® Pattern Selector: ^ (plain zig-zag) or

T (blindstitch)
© Needle Position ; ^
® Stitch Width: I ^ (maximum)
® Stitch Length : 8-20, depending on

choice of stitch and fabric

® General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

For a 5/8-inch Seam

Seam edges support the garment and
should be given a durable finish If the
fabric is likely to ravel. There are two
methods of finishing seams in such fabrics:
trimming seam edge or overedging.

Make a test sample first to determine

which method best suits your fabric.

Across the Point

t be

® Topstltching holds seams and garment
decorative note.

@ Reinforce button and buttonhole areas

are

sharp points on

one or tv\/o

s.

Ily

a

e.

® bt

bew seams or

3 tairiv

by holding fabric slightly taut at front and

ong stitch (8-1«

ed OUI I.

use an enclosed

Stitch ciré knits wii

a medium-length stitch (12

it stiîcnes i

(as well as bound but

are tabric.

'•b he Even Feed foot described on page 58 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

4Ü

an i

Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place

pins at close intervals at right angles

to the seam line. Pins with colored

heads are easy to see and remove.
Sew in direction of nap.
Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch
(8 to 10 straight stitches per inch) and

use polyester/cotion thread in a size
14 or 16 Style # 2020 needle.

As seam is stitched, smooth pile away

from seam allowance with a darning

needle or upholstery pin.
After stitching seams with a f“inch

seam allowance, use small hand
scissors to shear pile from entire seam

allowance to reduce bulk.

Stitch J-inch pre-shrunk tape into

neckline and shoulder seams for sta-*

biiity and reinforcement or stitch with
the straight stretch stitch.

Leather and leather-look fabrics com
plement fur fabrics; use them for bound
buttonholes and easy button loops.
Coat hems are less bulky if they are
narrow and finished with a 3-inch

fabric facing or grosgrain ribbon.

Slash through the center fold of darts

and finger-press open, or stitch with a

narrow zig-zag stitch and trim away

excess fabric after stitching.

Deep-Piie Fabrics

VELVET ШВ VELVETEEW^

® Use a light-pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile.
# fVlark and baste with silk thread.
® Use a Style # 2020, size 11 needle, and a fine thread for seaming. “A''

sUk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet.
Always stitch in the direction of the nap.

® For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch under

fight tension (see page 18). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine
basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch.

© When inserting a zipper, use the blindstiich for an almost invisible finish

(see page 43),

® To sew paoné velvet use a ball-poini needle and a shorier-ihan-normal

stitch length (12 to 15 straight stitches per inch).

Even Feed foot described on page 58 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

ZIPPERS

At the notions counter in your Singer
Sewing Center, you will find many dif

ferent kinds of Zippers, one of which will

be just right for whatever you want to sew.
The zipper package wifi contain easy-to­follow instructions for inserting the zipper.
And, with the zipper foot, you will find it
easy to form an even line of stitching dose
to the zipper.

Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)

Pattern Selector: Any setting
Needle Position: ^
Stitch Width: \
General-Purpose Needle Plate

E

'i;

|i|

Position

Block

Zipper Foot

i

When the zipper is to the right of the

needle:

Zipper Foot Zipper Foot

to Left of Needle to Right of Needle

Making Welting for a

Corded Seam

© Move position block on zipper foot to

left, to allow shank to enter right side of

foot, so that needle will enter right

notch in foot.

When the zipper is to the ¡eft of the needle:

® Move position block on zipper foot to

right, to allow shank to enter left side of

foot, so that needle will enter left notch

in foot.

(The zipper foot is snapped onto shank as

instructed on page 7.)
CORDED SEAIVIS

The corded seam is a professional treat
ment for slipcovers, children's clothes,
blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded
seam, make the welting first (or buy it

ready-made at a notions counter), then
stitch it into the seam. For both steps, use
the zipper foot to place the stitching close

to the cord.

42

ILiWDSTiTCH ZIPPER

@ Flexi-Sîiîch Dial : O (Off)

i5 Pattern Selector : ^ (blindstitch)

® Needle Position : i
® Stitch Width ; > (narrow)

® Stitch Length : 12
® General-Purpose Needle Plate
® Zipper Foot

Blindstiiching, used instead of straight
stitching for the final step in zipper
insertion, gives a fine finish that is almost

invisible. Indispensable for knits, napped

and sheers.

1. Allow for a J-inch seam allowance in

the zipper area when you cut garment.

2. Insert zipper in the usual way up to the

final step; then, turn garment right
side out and spread fiat with zipper
faceup.

Final Step of Blindstitch

Zipper insertion

3. Work from the right side and pin
zipper tape into position.

4. Baste a guideline for blindstitching

alongside zipper, about f-inch from
garment seam. Make sure basting
stitches go through all fabric layers and
zipper tape. Remove pins.

5. Adjust zipper foot to right side of
needle.

6. Turn garment wrong side out. Piace
lower end of zipper tape over feed and
turn front section of garment back to
line of basting, creating a soft fold to
the left of the needle.

7. Set stitch width selector and position
work so that the straight stitches will
go through the seam allowance and
zipper tape, and the sideward stitches
catch a few threads of the fold.

8. Lower zipper foot and stitch slowly.
After stitching, remove basting and
press lightly.

Completed Blindstitch

Zipper insertion

43

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS (Continued)

Creating Soft Fold

BLIWDSTITOH hlEMS

Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)

Pattern Selector: (blindstitch)
Needle Position: J or^
Stitch Width : I to ^
Stitch Length: 10-20
General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
Blindstitch Hem Guide

Blindstitching provides a durable hem
finish that can be used on a variety of
light and medium weight fabrics, ft is best
suited to straight hems. Taped, bound,
turned, or unfinished hem edges can be

blindstitched with equal ease. Blind­stitching takes a little practice, however,
so make a test sample first.

Blindstitching Hem

Biindstitcii Hem Completed

1. Attach blindstitch hem guide as in­Instructed on page 6.

2. Mark, turn, and press hem in the usual
way. (You may want to baste the
turned hem to hold it in place. If so,

be sure to place the basting at least

i inch from hem edge.)

3. With the work wrong side up, turn the
hem under, creating a soft fold about

i inch from hem edge. Press lightly.

4. Position the hem under the foot with
the soft fold resting against wall of
guide. Make sure flange of guide is
between the soft fold and top of hem.

5. Lower the presser foot and stitch so
that the straight stitches fall on the
hem edge and the sideward stitches
pierce the soft fold. While stitching,
guide hem edge in a straight line and

feed the soft fold evenly against the
wall of the hem guide.

44

practicai, simple way to accent the

3f a dress or coat is to place one

or more rows of stitching along collars,

lapels, facing edges, pockets, seams, etc.
For a tailored look, use lines of regular

straight stitching; sew them with button^

hole twist for added emphasis. For decora-“
tlve interest, use a zig-zag or FlexhStltch
pattern. To add firmness to hems and
seams in knit and stretch garments, top-

stitch with the straight stretch stitch. The

seam guide (see page 58) will help you
place stitching accurately.

Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)

Pattern Selector: § (plain zig-zag)

Needle Position: ¿

Stitch Width: ^ (maximum)
Stitch Length: 25 or to suit fabric
General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

Topstitching

with Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

Steps in Making a Dart in interfacing

Step

With zig-zag stitching, interfacings can

be shaped without bulk.

1. Cut out the dart allowance on the
stitching line.

2. Bring raw edges together and pin or
baste in place over a muslin stay.

3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends of

dart for reinforcement.

Step 2

APPLIQUÉ

Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You
can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book, or
use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture
combine equally well.

A closely spaced zig-zag stitch is most commonly used in appliqué work,

but other stitch patterns may also be used effectively. Although you may vary

stitch width to accommodate fabric weave or texture, never allow the

stitch to be too wide.

When appliquéing, make a test sample to help you decide which of the
following methods is more appropriate for your fabric and design.

® Baste appliqué design to fabric.
© Outline design with straight stitching

(use a short stitch).
© Remove basting and press.
© Attach special purpose foot.

IVlethod # 1—Trinimiog after

Method 1

Trimming after Stitching

Method 2

Stitching after Trimming

1. Set machine for desired appliqué
stitch and set stitch width. Adjust
stitch length in the FINE area of the
stitch length dial.

2. Outline the entire design with appliqué
stitching.

3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges
of the stitching with embroidery
scissors.

1. Trim outside fabric edges close to
straight stitch outline of design.

2. Set machine for plain zig-zag stitching
and set stitch width. Adjust stitch

length in the FINE area of the stitch
length dial.

3. Overedge the design with zig-zag satin
stitching. This step will produce- a
smooth, lustrous finish that requires no
additional trimming.

46

SHELL EDGiWG

® Ffexi-Stitch Dial; O (Off)
© Pattern Selector: ^ (biindstitch)
© Needle Position : f

Stitch Width ■ I to ^

® Stitch Length : 12 to 25

© General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

On soft, fine fabrics such as tricot voile
and crepe, shell edging makes an attractive

finish for narrow hems or bias folds in

blouses, slips and petticoats.

Make a test on a sample of your fabric to
find the right thread tension, stitch length,
and stitch width.

1. Place folded hem (basted, if necessary)
or bias fold under presser foot with
hem or fold to the left.

2. Stitch slowly, guiding fabric so that the
sideward stitches are made over the
folded edge.

Shell Edging with

the Biindstitch

47

IVlEWDiNG

The plain zig-zag pattern is just as
useful for mending as it is for creative
sewing. It forms a flexible bond for re
pairing tears and stretch garments.

f\/ieiiding a Tear

© Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)
© Pattern Selector: ^ (plain zig-zag)

® Needle Position : I

© Stitch Width; | or ^(maximum)
© Stitch Length : About 25
® General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

Tear Mended with

Plain Zig-zag

Bar-Tacked Belt Loops

1. Trim ragged edges.

2. Place underlay on the wrong side of
tear for reinforcement. (It is best not
to baste or pin the underlay since you

will be bringing the edges of tear

together in the next step.)

3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the

edges of the tear together.

4. Shorten stitch length at ends and
corners to give extra strength.

5. Trim underlay.

Bar Tacks

Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain,
are made with the plain zig-zag stitch at
satin stitch length. Use them at pocket

corners, to attach garters, secure shoulder
straps, belt loops and zipper openings.

48

[Repairing Stretch Garments

Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)

Pattern Selector: | (plain zig-zag)

Needle Position: 1

Stitch Width: I to ^
Stitch Length ; 25 or to suit fabric
General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

Seams and hems in stretch and elasticized
garments retain their elasticity when
stitched with the plain zig-zag stitch.

This stitch is particularly effective when

used in topstitch applications (as shown)
or to overedge. Make a test sample to
check selector settings.

Stretch Garment Repair

Seams

Breaks in press-open seams can be re

paired quickly and easily when you use the
straight stretch stitch. This stitch is idea!
for knit and stretch fabrics, and particu

larly useful for repairing or strengthening
curved seams, or seams that will receive
strain v\/hen worn.

1. Make a test sample to check selector

settings,

2. Remove loose thread along the break

and press seam edges together.

3. Re-stitch along original seamline,

guiding seam under presser foot with
out stretching fabric, letting the ma
chine move the fabric to make the
back-and-forth stitches that give
s-t-r-e-t-c-h' to the seam. Overlap
stitching one inch at each end. Press
seam open.

Seam Repair

49

KEEPING UP APPEARANCES (continued)

DARWING

Worn or torn spots on children's clothes,

knits, and household linens can be darned
effortlessly and quickly with little practice.
You may choose to darn either with or
without an embroidery hoop. When
greater control is needed, an embroidery

hoop is usually best.

Darning without Embroidery Hoop

Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)
Pattern Selector: Any setting
Needle Position : X
Stitch Width : :
Stitch Length : 12

General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot

Pressure: D

Darning Without

Embroidery Hoop

1. If area to be darned is open, baste an
underlay in place.

2. Place area to be darned under presser
foot; lower presser foot and start
stitching, alternately drawing fabric
toward you and pulling it

gently away

from you.

3. Continue this forward and backward
motion as you fill the area with parallel
lines of stitching. For additional

strength, cover area with crosswise

lines of stitching.

50

© Flexi-Stitch Dial: O (Off)
© Pattern Selector: Any setting

® Needle Position : X
© Stitch Width : !

© Stitch Length : In Fine Area
© Feed-Cover Needle Plate
© No Presser Foot
© Presser Bar: Lowered

Remove presser foot with shank (by

removing the screw which fastens the

shank to the presser bar). Attach feed-

cover needle plate. Instructions for
changing the needle plate are given on
page 7.

1. Trim ragged edges from area to be
darned.

2. Center worn section in embroidery
hoop,

3. Position work under needle over feed­cover plate and lower presser bar to

engage tension.

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left
hand, turn hand wheel over and draw
bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold
both thread ends and lower needle

into fabric.

5. Outline area to be darned with running
stitches for reinforcement.

6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop
under needle at a slight angle from
lower left to upper right. Keep lines of
stitching closely spaced and even in
length.

7. When opening is filled, cover area with
crosswise lines of stitching.

This method of controlling fabric move

ment with an embroidery hoop may be
used to do embroidering and mono­gramming.

Darning With Embroidery Hoop

51

Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years If you take a few
moments of your time to keep it dean. How often you will need to clean the
machine will depend on how often you use it.

CAUTION : Before cieaiiiog your machirie^ disconnect

plug from electrical syppiy.

Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts.

With a soft cloth, clean:

® Tension discs, take-up lever, and thread

guides.
© Presser bar and needle bar.
© Bobbin case. (If there is an excessive

amount of lint in the area, remove the
bobbin case for cleaning. See page 54

for instructions.)
© Machine surface. (If necessary, dampen

the cloth and use a mild soap.)

Remove face plate as instructed on page

53, and clean area behind it with a lint
brush t-

Remove needle plate as instructed on
page 7 and, using a brush, clean the

rotating hook area under the needle

plate and slide plate.

-line

Clean

Clean

52

'-i-—7

" é

\.

After cleaning, apply SINGERS oil at

points indicated on these pages.

Approximately once every year under

normal conditions, clean and lubricate all
moving or rotating machine connections

to ensure freedom of movement and to

protect metal parts from excessive wear.
To remove top and bottom covers, follow
instructions on page 53.

|A lint brush designed for this purpose is available
for separate purchase at your local Singer Sewing
Center.

removing covers, bobbin case and

CAUTION: Before removing covers,

disconnect power-line

REIViOViWO AMD REPLACING

TOP COVER

© To remove, loosen and remove screv\/s

A and lift off top cover.

® To replace, position cover on top of

machine and replace and tighten

screws A.

REIVlOViNG AND REPLACING
BOTTOIVl COVER

If your machine is a portable, remove the
carrying case base as instructed below.

® To remove, tilt machine back and re

move retaining nut B, being careful not
to lose felt washer, and remove cover
from underside of machine.

® To replace, position cover over bottom

of machine and replace felt washer and
retaining nut Tighten retaining nut
with a screwdriver.

case,

from electrical

REMOVING AND REPLACING

CARRYING CASE BASE

® Turn machine so that back is toward

you. Tilt machine back and loosen and

remove the retaining nut B from the

center.

® Set machine upright and lift up and out

of base.

® Replace machine in base, after bottom

cover has been attached.

® Turn machine so that back is toward

you; tilt back and replace retaining nut.
Tighten retaining nut with a screw
driver.

REMOVING AND REPLACING
FACE PLATE

® Loosen and remove screw D and re

move face plate by sliding it downward.

® Replace face plate by sliding top edge

of plate under edge of arm top cover.

O

O

® Align screw hole in plate with screw

hole in machine and replace and
tighten thumb screw D.

53

CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE (Continued)

REfVlOViNG AND REPLACING
BOBBIN CASE

Raise presser foot.

Turn hand wheel toward you until
needle is in its highest position.

Open slide plate with downward finger
pressure. Draw plate toward you,
opening it all the way to raise the
needle plate locking pin.

Rennove needle plate.

Remove bobbin.

(O Bobbin Case

Holder

To remove bobbin case“

Bobbin Case

Removing Bobbin Case

Turn bobbin case holder to back as far as

it will go. Lift out bobbin case.

To replace bobbin case:

Guide the forked end under the feed and
then draw the bobbin case under the
position plate as illustrated. Turn bobbin
case holder all the way forward to lock
bobbin case in position. After locking the
bobbin case in position, check that the
bobbin case does not bind but has slight
rotational movement.

® Replace bobbin in bobbin case,

® Replace needle plate.

® Close slide plate to lower needle plate

locking pin and secure needle plate.

54

This machine is designed to use a 15 watt

maximum light bulb.

THE LIGHT BULB

Disconnect power-line plug from elec

trica! supply.

With thumb and forefinger lower the light
bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew bulb.

Press it up into socket and at same time
turn bulb over in direction shov/i/n to
unlock bulb pin.

tine Byiib

Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin
entering slot of socket, and turn it over in
direction shown to lock bulb in position.
Release bracket, and entire assembly will

snap back into recess.

Unlocks

This machine
is designed to
use a 1 5 watt
maximum light

bulb

THE SLIDE PLAT!

You Will not have any occasion to remove
the slide plate. However, if si should
accidentally become disengaged from
the machine, it is easily replaced.

® Raise presser foot and needle.
® Place slide plate sn sisdeway with the

front edge close to, but not covering,
the retaining spring (as shown in illu­sirailon).

® With a screwdriver, lift each end of the

spring into each of the side grooves on

the underside of the slide plate.

® Draw the plate gently toward you and

fully engage the spring.

® Close slide plate.

Raise Presser Foot

and Needle

lí ^

BEIViOVING ¡ViACHiWE

FeOM CABINET

ilVlPORTANT:

€> Do not aítempí ío remove hinges from

cabinet as this may result in damage to
the wood of the cabinet.

® Pull cabinet away from wall to avoid

damage to wall or machine.

i» Remove machine power-Hne plug from

electrical outlet.

To Reroove iViachioe From Cabinet“

1. Tilt machine back until it rests on
hinges. Remove machine plug from
receptacle.

NOTE: On models equipped with
spring-assist plate (see inset Step 1),
remove screw which fastens clip to
machine. Remove electrical cord from
clip, then replace clip and screw (to
avoid loss of these items).

2. Loosen set screws that hold machine
on hinge pins by turning them counter
clockwise.

3. Lift machine straight up and off pins.
For ease of removal, stand behind
cabinet when lifting machine.

To Replace Machine in Cabinet:
Reverse the procedure used for removing

the machine.

® Be sure set screws in machine are un

screwed far enough to clear the open

ings forthe hinge pins.

© To keep hinge pins pointing up while

replacing the machine, slip an elastic

rubber band around both pins, making
sure the elastic band is over the
shoulder of each hinge as illustrated.

® Be sure set screws are firmly tightened

against hinge pins before lowering
machine into sewing position or into
storage position.

56

NOTE: On Models equipped with
spring-assist plate, lead electrical cord
into recess at bottom of plate; fit clip
on cord and fasten to machine, as
shown in inset. Step 1.

lElVIEIVlBEB TO

Turn on power and light switch.
Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle and take-up ¡ever.

Raise needle above fabric before nnaking adjustments to stitch width,
needle position and pattern selector.

Use red selector settings for FlexJ-Stitch pattern sewing.

Start and finish sewing with the take-up lever in its highest position»
Adjust stitch length, pressure, and thead tension to suit your fabric.
Test-stitch on a fabric sample before starting a sewing job.

Replace bent or burred needles.

Lower presser foot before setting pressure dial.
Tighten hand wheel knob and move bobbin winder switch to OFF after

winding a bobbin.

Remove feed-cover needle plate after button sewing and after darning
with an embroidery hoop.

Sew at a moderate speed when using a Flexl-Stitch pattern.

F THREAD BREAKS, MAKE SURE

Machine is correctly threaded.

Bobbin case is correctly inserted and threaded.

Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.

Needle is straight and securely tightened in clamp.

Thread is suitable for size of needle.
Thread is even and free of knots.

Needle-thread tension is light enough.

Needle-plate needle hole and presser foot are undamaged.

Bobbin and bobbin case are undamaged.

Enjoy Sewing!

If you have any questions, please write to;

Department of Sewing Education

The Singer Company

321 First Street, Elizabeth, NJ. 07207

57

FASHION AIDS

The Fashion Aids shown below are designed to increase the versaîiliîy of
your sewing machine. They are pari of the complete selection of accessories
that is available at your local Singer Sewing Center.

Even Feed Foot Wo. 507806 is an in

Professional'^ Buttonholer Wo. 102878

sews six kinds of buttonholes, plus eyelets,

in a wide variety of fabrics.

valuable aid for sewing hard-to-feed
vinyls and fake fur, pile, stretch, bonded
and iaminaied fabrics.

lo. 86742 offers a simple, effect- Binder Foot Wo. 81245 is used to apply

ive way to make gathered and pleated ready-made bias tape or unfolded bias

ruffles. Used for straight stitching only. binding to an unfinished fabric edge.

Button Foot Wo.161613
holds any two-hole or
four-hole button securely
for stitching.

Hemmer Foot Wo.
161671 is used for turning
and stitching narrow hems
in one operation.

Seam Guide Wo.
161172 helps keep
seam width uniform

when extra control is

needed.

Darning and Em

broidery Foot Wo.
161876 is ideal for
embroidery, mono-

gramming and decora
tive designs.

58

This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. Have someone assist

you in taking the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure.

The illustrations below show where the tape measure should be placed when taking each

measurement.

inches

1. BUST — Fullest part —

slightly higher in back

2. WAIST — Around natural

waistline

3. HIP—

natural waistline (fullest

part) ..........................

4. SHOULDER — From base

of neck to top of arm

5. FRONT BODICE WIDTH

— From armhole to arm

hole 5 inches down from

center shoulder

6. BACK BODICE WIDTH—
From armhole to armhole 4

inches down from center

shoulder

7. SHOULDER TO BUST—

From neck base at shoulder

to a line even with point of

bust

8. FRONT WAIST LENGTH
—From neck base at
shoulder over fullest part of

bust to waistline ..

9. BACK WAIST LENGTH —

From the prominent bone

at base of neck to natural
waistline

10. SLEEVE WIDTH—Around
arm at upper edge of under
arm seam

11. SLEEVE LENGTH —
Shoulderto elbow

12. SLEEVE LENGTH —Elbow
to wrist

13. FRONT SKIRT LENGTH—
Down center from waist
line to hem

14. BACK SKIRT LENGTH —
Down center from waist
line to hem

.......

inches below

.......................................

...............................

.............................

............................

SLACKS MEASUREMENT CHART

15. FULL LENGTH—Waistto

floor at side seam ..

16. SLACKS LENGTH—Waist

to ankle .................................

17. CROTCH SEAM (stand

ing) —

18. CROTCH SEAM (seated)

— Waist to chair at side
seam

.....................................

.........................................

59

Page

Accessories............................................... 6

Appliqué

Blindstitch Hems
Bobbin

.................................................

....................................

...................

..........................

46
44

5, 8, 11

VA/inding ............................................ 11

Bobbin Case

Removing and Replacing

...........

54

Threading............................................. 13

Buttonholes ’
Buttons

..........................................

...................................................

32

31

Carrying Case Base

Removing and Replacing
Checklist

Cleaning

.................................................

.................................................

...........

53

57
52

Darning ................................................... 50

Darts

........................................................

Elastic, Attaching

...................................

45

37

Electrical Speed Controller ...... 5, 9

Embroidering

.........................................

51

Fabric, Thread and Needle Table . 10
Face Plate

Removing and Replacing

Fashion ^\6s

.....

........................................

Feed Cover Needle Plate

...........

53

.........................

58

7

Feed........................................................... 3

Finishes for Hems and Facings . . 38

Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial .3, 16, 22, 26, 28

Free Motion Stitching............................ 51

Page

Pin Basting
Power and Light Switch

Presser Foot........................................ 3, 6

Changing

Presser Foot Lifter........................................ 3

Pressure Adjustment

Pressure Regulating Dial ....... 3, 18

Principal Parts

Reverse Stitching....................................... 17

Satin Stitching

Seams, Sewing

Corded

Finishes

Ladder ..................................................... 38

Lingerie

Overedged............................................... 37

Straight

Shell Edging ............................................... 47

Slide Plate
Special Fabrics, Sewing
Special Purpose Foot

Spool Pin..................................................... 3

Stitch Length

Stitch Pattern Selector ......... 4

Setting ............................................. 22, 26

Stitch Width Selector
Straight Stitching

Adjusting Selectors................................ 17

Stretch Fabrics, Sewing............................. 35

...

.............................................

......

........................ 5

..................................................

................................

..............................................

............................................

..........................................

.....................................................

..................................................

................................................

....................................................

.........................................

............................

...............

......................

....................................... 16

4, 17, 24, 25, 28

...............

3, 55

6, 24, 25, 46

4, 16, 23, 27

19

7

18

2

25
19
42
38

39

20

40

General Purpose Foot ............................. 6

Guiding and Supporting Fabric .. 21,36

Hand Wheel.............................................. 3

Hand Wheel Knob
Hems, Blindstitch

Knit Fabrics, Sewing

....................................

...................................

..............................

44
35

Light Bulb ............................................... 55

Lubrication.............................................. 52

Mending .................................................. 48

Needle........................................................ 8

Changing

..............................................

Threading............................................. 14

Twin Needle

Needle Clamp
Needle Plate

Changing

Needle Position Selector

..................................

.................................

...........

........................ 3, 6, 7

8, 29
3, 8

..............................................

.............

4, 23, 27

7

Oiling........................................................ 52

60

Take-up Lever

Tension Adjusting

For Straight Stitching............................. 18

5

8

For Zig-Zag Stitching

Thread.......................................................... 10

Thread Cutter
Threading the Machine

Topstitching

Twin Needle .................................................. 8

Twin-Needle Stitching

Zig-Zag Stitching........................................ 22

Needle Position

General Purpose Foot.............................. 6

Satin Stitching

Stitch Pattern Selector

Stitch Length

Stitch Width

Zipper Foot

Zippers......................................................... 42

Blindstitch .............................................. 43

Straight Stitch ........................................ 42

.............................................

........................................

................

................................................

......................

.............................................

................................

................................

.......................................

.....................

.............................

.......................................

.............................................

3

3

23, 25, 27

3

11,30

45

29

23, 27

25

22, 26

24, 25, 28

23, 27

6, 42

Dear Customer:

We recommend that for future reference you record the Serial

Number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided.

Refer to illustration
at right for location
of Serial Number on
your machine.

Serial No.

Here, there, everywhere... SINGER

Form K8751 (179)

rPart Mr. 11K9«R.nrm

*A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY

Printed in Great Britain

With the home sewer’s needs comfortable and ample work
in mind, Singer combines ex- space. Shown here are just a
pert craftsmanship with imag- few of the contemporary and
inative design in sewing traditional styles available,

cabinets that provide both

Beautiful carving and handsome
hardware enhance the Mediter
ranean look of the Monaco.

Basketwork design adds a hand
crafted mellowness to the trim,
modern lines of the Greenbrier.

Chairs and benches in coordinated wood tones are also available.

Sleek lines and rich walnut ve

neers make the Pacesetter an

elegant addition to any room.

The warmth of Early American de
sign distinguishes the maple­toned Saratoga cabinet.

*A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY