SINGER 1360 User Manual

SINGER

Styie-O -Matic

THE SING ER COMPANY

Form K6401

(664)

Printed in Great Britain

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со>^'

AS THE OWNER OF THE SINGER* 328

• • •

you have a completely new, smooth running

automatic which offers you a new world of sewing
enjoyment.

Outstanding features include
^ “DROP-IN” BOBBIN . . . located in front of needle.

• CLAMP-TYPE CALIBRATED THROAT PLATE .. . easy

to remove.

• INTERCHANGEABLE FASHION* DISCS ... for beauti
ful one or two needle decorative stitching.

• SUPERFINE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL . . . for satin

stitching.

TO GET THE MOST ENJOYMENT FROM
YOUR SINGER

____

take advantage of the free sewing lessons to

which you are entitled. Skilled, SINGER-trained

teachers will give you personal guidance and assist
ance in the fundamentals of home sewing.

Copyright Under international Copyright Union

SINGER SERVICE

Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable

SINGER* Service close at hand. SINGER is in

terested in helping you keep your SINGER Sewing

Machine in top running condition. That is why you
should always call your SINGER SEWING CENTER

if your machine ever requires adjustment dr repair.

Only from your SINGER SEWING CENTER can
you obtain the services of a trained SINGER repair
man and warranted SINGER* parts.

EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS

The answer to your sewing needs is at your
SINGER SEWING CENTER. There you will find
a wide choice of sewing aids, notions, sewing
instructions and services. Look for the famous red
"S” and SINGER trademarks on your SINGER
SEWING CENTER and the ever ready SINGER
Service Van. Look under SINGER SEWING

MACHINE COMPANY, in phone book, for

Pi

address nearest you.

PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 328

FASHION DISC

COVER

NEEDLE POSITION

LIGHT SWITCH

TAKE-UP

LEVER

NEEDLE THREAD

TENSION

THROAT PLATE

STITCH WIDTH

SELECTOR

SELECTOR

BOBBIN

WINDER

HAND

WHEEL

STITCH

LENGTH

REGULATOR

SLIDE PLATE

FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART

FABRICS

DELICATE—tulle, chiffon, fine lace, silk,

organdy, fine tricot

LIGHTWEIGHT—batiste, organdy, Jersey,

voile, taffeta, silk crepe, plastic film

MEDIUM WEIGHT—gingham, percale, pique,

linen, chintz, faille, satin, fine corduroy, suitings

THREAD

SIZES

Fine Mercerized

100 to 150 Cotton

Synthetic Thread

50 Mercerized

80 to 100 Cotton

A Silk

Synthetic Thread

50 Mercerized

60 to 80 Cotton

A Silk

Synthetic Thread

NEEDLE

SIZES

9 15 to 20

11

14

MACHINE STITCHES

PER INCH

STRAIGHT STITCHING

(8 to 10 for plastic)

12 to 15

12 to 15

MEDIUM HEAVY—gabardine, tweed, sail

cloth, denim, coatings, drapery fabrics

HEAVY—overcoatings, dungaree, upholstery

fabrics, canvas

Heavy Duty Merc.

40 to 60 Cotton

Heavy Duty Merc.

24 to 40 Cotton

16

18

10 to 12

8 to 10

NEEDLES AND THREAD

This machine uses needle. Catalog
2020 (15 X 1). Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16
and 18.

For perfect stitching, select correct

needle and thread to correspond with

fabric according to table on page 5.
Be sure to use like threads for both
needle and bobbin.

NEEDLE INSERTrON

• Raise needle bar to highest point by

turning hand wheel toward you.

• Loosen needle clamp screw.

• Insert needle upward into clamp as
far as it will go, with flat side of
needle to back and long groove to

ward you.

• Tighten needle clamp screw.

LONG GROOVE

TOWARD YOU

REMOVING THE BOBBIN

Open slide plate and lift out bobbin.

8

WINDING THE BOBBIN

Loosen stop motion screw with

right hand.

• Place empty bobbin on spindle.

^ Press bobbin winder down against

hand wheel.

WINDING THE BOBBIN (Cont’d)

Place spool of thread on spool pin.

Thread between tension discs and
through bobbin as shown.
Hold end of thread and start machine.
(Cut off end of thread after a few coils

have been wound on bobbin.)

10

WINDING THE BOBBIN (Confd)

when bobbin is full

If thread doesn^t wind evenly

Loosen screw which holds bobbin

Stop machine.
Lift bobbin winder away from hand

wheel and remove bobbin.

Tighten stop motion screw.

winder tension bracket to machine
bed.

Move bracket to left if bobbin winds

high on right; move to right if bob
bin winds high on left.

Tighten tension bracket screw.

n

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold bobbin so that thread leads

off in direction shown.

Draw thread into notch at end of

spring; pull about 3 inches of thread
across bobbin.

Place bobbin in case.
Lead thread into slot and under

spring

I

Close slide plate,

12

UPPER THREADING — ONE NEEDLE

• Raise take-up lever to highest point.

• Lead thread through threading

points shown.

• Draw sufficient thread through eye

of needle with which to start sewing.

13

STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR

TO RELEASE

Numerals on left side of indicator

represent number of stitches per inch.

Numerals on right side represent

stitch length in millimeters.

Upper inclined area of the regulator

represents stitch lengths above 20.

Lower inclined area of the regulator
allows the #6 stitch length setting to
be **locked’' in place when stitching
folds, pleats or multiple layers of
heavy fabric.

To set stitch length

® Release pointer by turning thumb

nut to the left.

• Position lever for desired stitch

length.

• Tighten pointer against plate by

turning thumb nut to the right.

Once the pointer has been positioned, reverse stitching is accomplished

by raising the lever to its highest point. The #6 ^'locked'’ position must be un
locked for reverse stitching.

14

THROAT PLATE

Removal and Replacement

To remove the throat plate

Raise needle bar and presser foot.
Open slide plate.

To replace the throat plate

Place thumb under right front end

of throat platje and raise until clamp
ing pin lifts up.

Draw plate toward right to disen

gage.

Position fork of plate under clamp

ing pin as shown above.

Push to left and press down until

plate snaps into position.

Close slide plate.

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15

STITCH CONTROLS

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Stitch Width Selector

Selector lever regulates swing of

needle from its straight stitching posi
tion 0 to maximum width 4 (5/32
inch).

To position, slide lever to desired

setting. Numerals indicate four width

settings, but intermediate settings may

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Needle Position Selector^ • • • «

Left (L), Center (C) and Right (R)

needle position settings are available
fo,r placement of both straight and

zigzag stitching.

To position, slide lever to desired

setting.

#1

also be used.

Do not make any stitch width or needle position adjustments while the needle

is in the fabric.

16

STRAIGHT STITCHING — CENTER POSITION

..

..........

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STITCH WIDTH SELECTOR: O

NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR: C

The general purpose throat plate and presser foot as well as the
straight stitch throat plate and presser foot can be used in C needle
position.

STRAIGHT STITCHING EQUIPMENT

GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE

GENERAL PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT

17

GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT

PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT are
used for all utility sewing and where
there is occasion to alternate between

straight and zigzag stitching in the
sewing procedure.

STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE
STRAIGHT STITCH PRESSER FOOT

STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT

PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT are

used where fabric and sewing pro
cedure require close control. . . for the

precision stitching of curved and

scalloped edges, top stitching, edge

stitching, etc. This equipment should

be used when stitching delicate or

spongy fabrics, synthetics, and knits.

18

STRAIGHT STITCHING — SECONDARY POSITIONS

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STITCH WIDTH SELECTOR: O
NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR; L OR R
GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT

To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed

to right or left of center. The general purpose throat plate and presser
foot must be used with secondary needle positions.

19

PREPARING TO SEW

Hold needle thread lightly with

left hand.

• Pull end of bobbin thread up through

throat plate.

Turn hand wheel so that needle

enters plate and brings up bobbin
thread.

I

Place both needle and bobbin

threads diagonally under presser
foot.

20

SEWING A SEAM

Set stitch regulator for desired

stitch length.

Position needle into fabric about

inch from edge.

Lower presser foot.
Raise stitch length regulator to

reverse.

21

SEWING A SEAM (Cont’d)

Back stitch to edge of fabric for

reinforcement.

Lower stitch length regulator.

Stitch to end of seam.

Raise stitch length regulator.

22

SEWING A SEAM (Confch

Back stitch to reinforce end of seam.
Lower regulator to forward stitching position.
With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove

fabric.

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23

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

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Most fabrics need to be guided only in front of the presser foot.

Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, knits,
tricots, etc., require support while being stitched. For such fabrics
apply a gentle tension by holding seam in front and back of the
presser foot as illustrated.

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24

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

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Needle thread tension too

tight—correct by setting dial
to lower number.

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A";.

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Needle thread tension too

loose—correct by setting dial

to higher number.

A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions

balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into

fabric.

25

BOBBIN THREAD TENSION

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2:*- 1 4

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Bobbin thread tension too tight

—correct by turning screw coun

terclockwise.

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A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions

balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into
fabric.

Bobbin thread tension too loose

—correct by turning screw clock

wise.

26

PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS

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To decrease pressure, turn
thumb screw upward.

To increase pressure, turn
thumb screw downward.

Decrease Increase

Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses of fabric

results when pressure is correctly regulated.

Surface finish, as well as the weight and texture of the

fabric, must be considered in determining the amount of
pressure needed.

Adjustment of the thumb screw regulates the amount

of pressure exerted on the material while it is being
stitched.

Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding

which affects both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.

Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch and seam

quality but will mar smooth surfaces and pile fabrics.

27

ZIGZAG STITCHING EQUIPMENT

GENERAL PURPOSE

THROAT PLATE

GENERAL PURPOSE

PRESSER FOOT

SPECIAL PURPOSE

PRESSER FOOT

FASHION DISCS

28

ZIGZAG STITCHING

FASHION DISCS CONTROL STITCH PATTERNS.

NEEDLE POSITION LOCATES STITCHING AT

LEFT, CENTER OR RIGHT (See page 33).

STITCH WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROLS WIDTH OF PATTERN.
STITCH REGULATOR CONTROLS LENGTH OF STITCH.

Nine removable FASHION Discs are furnished with the machine.
Zigzag Disc(X)is supplied on the disc holder in the machine. Eight
additional discs are in the attachment set. Each disc produces an
individual design, and is interchangeable with the Zigzag Disc.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

OF FASHION DISCS

To remove and replace FASHION

Discs, set stitch width selector at 0.

29

Raise disc cover on top of machine.
Unscrew knurled thumb screw and lift

disc from spindle. Position another
disc on spindle and replace thumb
screw.

Tighten screw securely.
Set needle position and stitch width

selectors at desired settings.

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30

FASHION DISCS

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MULTI-STITCH

These four interchangeable FASHION Discs, plus the four

illustrated on the next page, are included with the machine.

See page 29 for removal and replacement.

BLIND STITCH

ARROWHEAD DOMINO

31

FASHION DISCS

ICICLE

BANNER

DIAMOND

These four interchangeable FASHION Discs, plus the four

illustrated on the previous page, are included with the machine.

See page 29 for removal and replacement.

CRESCENT

32

CONTROL OF WIDTH — ZIGZAG STITCHING

12 3 4

Width of zigzag stitch is controlled by the Stitch Width Selector.
As the selector lever is moved to the right, the width of zigzag stitch
is increased. Settings of 1 through 4 are indicated, but intermediate

settings may also be used.

To avoid damage to needle and fabric, do not make any selector

adjustments with the needle in the fabric.

33

NEEDLE POSITIONS FOR ZIGZAG STITCHING

Ì 2 3 4

Needle position setting of C (Center)

places stitching in central needle position.
Settings L (Left) and R (Right) place stitch

ing in left or right needle positions at widths

less than 4.

Center (C) needle position is preferred.
Left (L) or Right (R) settings are used only
when special placement of stitching is
desired... for example: buttonholes, button
sewing, blind stitching.

Do not make any needle position adjust

ments with the needle in the fabric.

34

STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT FOR SATIN STITCHING

Upper inclined area of indicator plate provides a

means of gradually shortening stitch length.

As knob is turned, pointer rides up incline until a closed

satin stitch is obtained.

The length setting will vary with texture of fabric.

Make a test on a scrap of self-fabric, using Special Purpose

Foot, before proceeding with the actual work.

TENSION ADJUSTMENT FOR SATIN STITCHING

Satin stitching requires lighter ten

sion than straight stitching or open
designs. The wider the satin stitching

the lighter the tension required.

Wide satin stitching, Stitch Width

Selector at 4, requires least amount of

tension. For narrower satin stitching

slightly more tension should be used.

To determine correct tension set

ting, a test sample should be made on

35

self-fabric using Special Purpose Foot.
A properly balanced satin stitch should
lie fiat across the material.

Some soft fabrics may require addi

tion of a backing to insure good stitch
ing results. Crisp organdy and lawn

are suitable for this purpose.

I

Correct

r

Incorrect

36

TWO NEEDLES

The needle clamp accommodates
two needles. Catalog 2020 (15 x 1),
generally of the same size. How
ever, where special effects are
desired, needles of different sizes

may he used together, with cor
responding threads. Loosen the
thumb screw and insert the addi
tional needle from the right.

37

TWO NEEDLES — UPPER THREADING

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Use No. 50 mercerized cotton thread.
Thread as for single needle (see

page 12).

Be sure that threads are separated

by center tension disc.

Carry only one thread through the

last guide before the needle.

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vT“;;s\,

38

TWO NEEDLES

Straight Stitching

Zigzag and Decorative Stitching

STITCH WIDTH: O
NEEDLE POSITION: L OR C ONLY
GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE

AND PRESSER FOOT

STITCH WIDTH: 2Vi MAXIMUM

NEEDLE POSITION: L ONLY
GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE
GENERAL PURPOSE OR

SPECIAL PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT

39

Instructions for using

ATTACHMENTS • •

Those attachments which are not furnished with your machine are
available for purchase at your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE.

40

SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT

This light, flexible
foot is designed for
satin stitching. It
provides maximum
visibility and allows

closely spaced zigzag stitches to feed
freely.

Eyelet on left side of foot accommo

dates a filler cord.

APPLICATIONS

Buttonholes

Decorative Stitching

BUTTONHOLES

FASHION DISC: ZIGZAG®
STITCH WIDTH: SEE BELOW

NEEDLE POSITION: L
THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE
SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT
STITCH LENGTH: ABOVE 20

To establish correct stitch setting

and length of buttonhole, a sample
must first be made.

Applique
Monograms

Couching

Motifs

1 3

mimiiniiiiiniiinimniiiiH

WlMMlIWIIIIIIIIHIIIIIUHIHiyiltl

41

BUTTONHOLES (Cont’d)

MARKING

LINES

I

LENGTH OF BAR TACKS AND

CUTTING SPACE SIDE STITCHING

The length of cutting space, the opening through which the button passes,

is measured by the width and thickness of the button.

The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting space plus Vs inch

for bar tacks.

Work a sample buttonhole in the same fabric as the garment. Use a double

fold, duplicating a facing, and include interfacing if this has been used.

42

BUTTONHOLES (Cont’d)

Procedure: Set needle position at L and stitch width at 2 for side stitching (see

page 40). Place work under needle, aligning center marking of buttonhole with

center score line of Special Purpose Foot.

Side Stitching: Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end

of marking. Leave needle in fabric at B. Raise foot and pivot work on needle.
Lower foot, and take one stitch without changing lever setting, bringing work

to C.

Bar Tack: Set lever at 4 for bar tacks and take six stitches to complete tack.

Stop at point D.

Side Stitching: Move lever back to 2 and stitch to point E. Point E is approx

imately six stitches from end of buttonhole.

43

BUTTONHOLES (Confd)

Final Bar Tack: Move lever to 4 and duplicate tack previously made. End at

point F.

Fastening Stitch: To secure stitching, move lever to O setting and take three

stitches.

Remove work, draw threads to underside, and trim. Cut opening for button

with sharp embroidery scissors.

44

APPLIQUE

Applique adds beauty to wearing

apparel, linens and household textiles.

Either contrasting or self-fabric may

be used effectively. Most versatile stitch

for applique is a closely set Zigzag

stitch (FASHION Disc0). Stitch

width may be varied to accommodate
weaves and textures of fabrics.

Many of the FASHION Disc patterns

present interesting ways to applique

with decorative stitching.

Preparation: Position design and baste

it to fabric. Attach Special Purpose
Foot to presser bar.

Select and insert desired FASHION

Disc, set stitch width selector at de

sired setting, and overedge design with

this stitching. A smooth uniform finish

results, which requires no additional

trimming.

Procedure: Set needle position at C

and stitch width at 0 for straight

stitching. Outline entire design with a
short stitch. Trim raw edges close to
stitching.

45

MONOGRAMS AND MOTIFS

Many of the decorative stitch pat

terns lend themselves to the creation of
attractive and unusual monograms and
motifs.

Select a simple transfer design, or

sketch one to suit your purpose. Posi

tion design, and transfer or trace to
right side of material.

When ’working a design on a single

thickness of fabric, a backing is essen
tial. Crisp lawn or organdy is suitable
for this purpose, and may be trimmed
close to stitching when work

IS

completed.

A test sample should be made before

proceeding with actual work to deter
mine stitch setting and spacing. The
Special Purpose Foot is especially
designed for accurate satin stitch
placement.

BUTTON SEWING FOOT

46

This short, open foot
accommodates any two
hole or four hole button,
and holds it securely for

stitching. Groove in foot allows for
insertion of a machine needle, over
which a thread shank may be formed.

FASHION DISC: ZIGZAG 0
STITCH WIDTH: O AND 3
NEEDLE POSITION: L

THROAT PLATE: GENERAL PURPOSE

WITH LIFTING PUTE

BUnON SEWING FOOT

With FASHION Disc 0 in place,

set needle position selector at L and
stitch width selector at 0.

Remove throat plate (see page 14).

Insert lifting plate as shown below.

Space between holes in button deter

mines width of stitch settings. Settings
0 and 3 generally apply to standard
buttons. The 0 setting is constant, but

3 can be increased or decreased to

accommodate buttons with unusual
spacing.

Insert general purpose throat plate

over lifting plate.

47

BUTTON SEWING (Cont’d)

Position button under foot so that needle will enter into left hole. Lower foot.

Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of fabric and is just above foot.

Set stitch width selector at 3. Needle should then enter into right hole in

button. Take approximately six zigzag stitches at this setting. End on left side.

To fasten stitching, adjust to O and take three stitches.

GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT

48

Used with general pur

pose throat plate, this foot
provides a wide needle
slot which accommodates
all stitch settings and can

be used for most sewing operations.

APPLICATIONS

Seams and Darts Seam Finishes
Mending Blind Stitched Hems

stitching seams on wrong side, press
both seam allowances in same direc

tion. From right side, top stitch with a
fine zigzag setting (VA width), letting
needle alternately enter seam line and

seam thicknesses. This finish is partic
ularly suitable for bias seams.

LINGERIE SEAMS

Dainty lingerie seams are made dura

ble and rip-proof with Zigzag stitching

(FASHION Disc(T)), After straight

49

SEAMS (Confd)

Knit Fabric Seams. A narrow Zigzag

stitch (FASHION Disc ®) is ideal for
seaming knit fabrics. It is particularly
suitable for underarm seams, or other
seams where elasticity and give are
needed.

For curved or bias seams, where

a stay is needed to prevent undue

stretching, this same stitch can be used
to apply seam tape. To insure a flat,
smooth finish, position tape with edge
exactly on seam line. If seam is curved,
pre-shape tape to fit by steaming, and

baste in place.

Proceed to stitch, allowing needle

to alternately enter seam tape and

seam line.

DARTS IN INTERFACING

Non-woven interfacings can be

shaped without bulk with Zigzag
stitching (FASHION Disc 0 ). Mul
tiple Stitch Zigzag FASHION Disc (|)
may also be used.

Cut out dart allowance on stitching
line and bring raw edges together.
Pin over a muslin stay and stitch. Back
stitch at both ends.

50

SEAM FINISHES

Seam edges support garment and
should be given a durable finish where

fabrics have a tendency to ravel.

Zigzag stitch (FASHION Disc 0 )

is ideal for such finishing. Place stitch
ing near edge of seam allowance, and

then trim excess fabric.

MENDING

Zigzag stitching is well suited for

all types of household mending. Multi-

51

pie Stitch Zigzag (FASHION Disc (g) )
provides a firm, flexible bond for

repair of tears, and is ideal for rein
forcement and application of elastic.

Stitch length and width are regulated

according to need.

Tears. Trim ragged edges and rein­force tear with underlay. Shorten stitch
length at ends and corners for added ^ ^'

strength.

Application of Elastic, Elastic must be

stretched as it is applied to insure full

s

f

ness required in the garment.

■»»SS'

//

52

THE SEAM GUIDE

The seam guide

aids in attaining
uniformity of seam
width. It provides
for stitching to be

placed at any distance between Vs'' to

11/4" from edge of fabric.

APPLICATION

SEAMS

For straight seams. Align guide with

presser foot. Adjust machine for
straight stitching. Pin seam edges and
baste if necessary. Guide fabric edges

lightly against guide while stitching.

For curved seams: Set attachment at an

angle so that end closest to needle acts
as a guide. Shorten stitch length for
greater elasticity and strength.

Seams Blind Stitching
Top Stitching Decorative Stitching

Attachment is used in connection
with a presser foot. It is secured to
bed of machine in either of threaded
holes to right of needle.

BLIND STITCHED HEMS

FASHION DISC: BUND STITCH
STITCH WIDTH: 2-4
NEEDLE POSITION: C
STITCH LENGTH: 10-15
GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE

AND PRESSER FOOT

SEAM GUIDE

Blind stitching provides a durable

hem finish almost invisible and com

parable to hand sewing.

Mark, turn and press hem in usual

way. Baste a guide line ^/4" from top

hem edge.

53

Place hem edge over feed of machine,

turn back bulk of fabric to line of
basting, thereby creating a soft fold.

Position work so that straight

stitches are made on hem edge and

sideward stitches pierce the fold.

Adjust seam guide over right toe of
foot until it rests next to soft fold.
While stitching, feed fold against flat
of guide.

A test sample should be made to de
termine stitch width and stitch length
for weight and texture of fabric used.

54

APPLICATIONS

Fine Hems
Edging Ruffles

THE FOOT HEMMER

The narrow hemmer

forms and stitches a per

fectly turned hem without

basting or pressing. It is

attached to machine in

place of regular presser

foot.

Hemming with Lace

Lace Insertion

HEMMING

Form a double Vs" fold at edge of

fabric; crease fold for about 2". Draw
bobbin and needle threads under hem
mer. Place fabric under foot and stitch
through creased fold for several stitches.
Hold thread ends in left hand and
guide raw edge in front of hemmer
evenly into scroll. Sew slowly, still
holding thread ends until hem is well

started. Feed material evenly into

Hemmed Seams

STITCH WIDTH: O
NEEDLE POSITION: C
STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE

FOOT HEMMER

Lingerie Finishes

HEMMED SEAMS

Hemmed seams are appropriate

where a fine narrow seam is desired.

• Allow a scant seam allowance.

• With right sides of fabric together,
place upper layer to left of

lower layer.

• Insert two fabric edges into hemmer

and proceed as for plain hem.

DECORATIVE HEMS

55

isti

Itili

Narrow hem edges can be turned

and decorated in one operation using

foot hemmer and a stitch pattern.

FASHION DISCS: ALL
STITCH WIDTH: 1 THRU 3

NEEDLE POSITION: C
GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE

ADJUSTING

LUG

56

MULTI-SLOTTED BINDER

SLOT FOR

FOLDED BIAS

TAPE

FASHION DISCS: ALL
STITCH WIDTH: 0 THRU 4
NEEDLE POSITION: C

GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE

MULTI-SLOTTED BINDER

SCROLL FOR

UNFOLDED

BINDING

Multi-slotted binder is used to apply

commercial binding as well as self
fabric bias to an unfinished edge. This
colorful trim is attractive when applied
to children’s wear, aprons and house
hold textiles. It is a practical finish for
seam edges that ravel and for making
bound seams.

The binder will accommodate both

straight and zigzag stitching.

Commercial single fold bias tape is

inserted from right into slot at wide

end of scroll. Unfolded bias 15/16"
wide is inserted into opening at end
of scroll.

Cut binding diagonally and pull

through scroll until evenly folded

edges are under needle. Free length of

binding is held between guide pins.

Insert edge to be bound into center

of scroll. Position stitching by moving

scroll portion of binder to right or

left by means of adjusting lug.

57

MULTI-SLOTTED BINDER (Confd)

Curved edges require slightly different fabric handling from
straight edges. Inside curves are straightened as they are fed into
binder. If fabric is soft and has a tendency to stretch, reinforce edge
with a single row of stitching before binding.

Outside curves tend to lead away from center slot of scroll and

should be guided so that a full seam width is taken at needle point.

Do not attempt to pull or straighten fabric into full length of scroll.

58

FORK

ARM

'ADJUSTING

SEPARATOR RUFFLING ^SEPARATOR

BLADE BLADE GUIDE

THE RUFFLER

ADJUSTING

LEVER

ADJUSTING

FINGER

SCREW

This attachment offers a simple and
effective way to make gathered and
pleated ruffles. Ruffles may be made
separately or made and applied at the
same time.

STITCH WIDTH: 0
NEEDLE POSITION: C
STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE

Adfusting Points

1. Adjusting lever sets ruffler for gathers

or pleats. Number 1 space setting is for

gathers and places fullness at every
stitch. Numbers 6 and 12 are space
settings for pleats, spacing them 6 or

12 stitches apart. Star is for straight

stitching and is used when grouping
gathers or pleats.

2. Adjusting finger is used only for

pleating and affects width of pleat. It

is disengaged by bringing it out of
contact with adjusting screw.

3. Adjusting screw regulates fullness of

gathers or pleats. When turned in to its

limit with adjusting finger in place,
attachment is set for its deepest pleat.
When turned outward to its limit, with
adjusting finger out of action, ruffler

RUFFLER

gives only a hint of fullness.

59

THE RÜFFLER (Cont*d)

Activating Parts. Ruffling blade and

separator blade are of blue steel and

hold material to be gathered between

them. Ruffling blade forms gathers or
pleats by carrying fabric to needle

according to spacing and fullness to

which ruffler is adjusted. Separator

guide is slotted to guide seam edges

evenly and to separate ruffled strip
from material to which ruffle is at
tached.

Preparation

• Raise needle to highest point.

Gathering

• Set adjusting lever on Number 1
setting and throw adjusting finger

out of action.

• Turn adjusting screw for amount of

fullness desired and set stitch length

to space fullness. Turn screw in for

more fullness; turn out for less

fullness.

• Locate ruffler on presser bar with
fork arm over needle clamp screw.

Securely tighten both presser bar

and needle clamp screws.

THE RÜFFLER (Confcl)

Length of sewing machine stitch
also affects ruffle fullness. Since a
given attachment setting puts an
equal amount of fullness into each
stitch regardless of its length,

60

RUFFLING

shortening the stitch (more stitches
to inch) makes ruffle fuller; length
ening the stitch (fewer stitches

to

inch) makes it less full. For fine,

closely spaced gathering, use a short
stitch and an outward adjustment of
adjusting screw. For deeper, less
closely spaced gathering, turn adjust

ing screw inward and use a medium
length stitch.

• Insert material to be gathered be

tween blue blades and through first
separator guide.

MATERIAL

Draw to back of needle.
Lower presser bar and stitch.

Fabric texture influences perform

ance of ruffler as well as results. Soft
fabrics, cut on crosswise grain, are

best adapted for gathering ruffles.

Always test stitch length and ruffler

setting on a scrap of self-fabric before
proceeding with the actual work.

THE RÜFFLER (Cont’d)

Attaching ruffle

• Place ruffle strip between two
blue blades and through first
separator guide.

61

RUFFLING

MATERIAL

GARMENT

• Place material to which ruffle
is to be attached between

separator blade and feed of
machine.

• Proceed as for plain gather
ing.

Right sides of fabrics are

placed together when the seam
is to fall to the inside.

Pleating

62

THE RÜFFLER (Confd)

• Move adjusting lever of ruffler to desired space setting for pleats either 6 or 12

stitches apart.

• Set stitch length.

For deepest pleat, activate adjusting finger and turn adjusting screw inward to

its maximum setting. For smaller pleats turn adjusting screw outward.

A short stitch places pleats more closely together; a long stitch separates the

pleats for a greater distance.

• Insert fabric to be pleated between blue blades and into first separator guide.

• Lower presser bar and stitch.

63

THE RÜFFLER (Cont'd)

Crisp fabrics cut on the crosswise grain form the sharpest pleats. Glazed

fabrics handle best if the glazed side is downward and the soft backing is next to
the ruffler blade.

Group Pleating

By using star setting (straight

stitching) alternately with 6 or

12 stitch setting, pleats are

formed in groups. Even spacing

between groups is accomplished

by counting the number of

stitches.

Darning

64

FREE MOTION WORK

STITCH WIDTH: 0
NEEDLE POSITION: C
STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE

WITH LIFTING PLATE

STITCH LENGTH: ABOVE 20

Position work under needle and
lower presser bar to engage tension.
Hold needle thread loosely with left
hand, turn hand wheel over and
draw bobbin thread up through

Household linens, children’s clothes

and knit wear of all kinds can be re
paired with the darning stitch.

Procedure

• Trim ragged edges from area to be

darned. Center worn section in em
broidery hoops.

• Remove presser foot.

• Insert lifting plate under throat plate

as instructed on page 46.

fabric. Hold both thread ends and
lower needle into fabric.

Outline area to be darned with
running stitches for reinforcement.

Place stitches 34" from edge of open
area.

Stitch across opening, moving hoops

under needle at a slight angle from

lower left to upper right. Keep lines

of stitching closely spaced and even

in length.

65

FREE MOTION WORK

Darning (Contad)

• When opening is filled, turn work'

90° and continue stitching until

darn is completed.

• Run machine at moderate speed and

control hoops with a steady con
tinuous movement. Slow movement
of hoops will produce a short stitch;
more rapid movement lengthens the
stitch.

Fairly long stitches are best for knit

and tricot fabrics; short stitches are

best for cottons and linens as they

Embroidery—Monograms

Decorative designs of all kinds can

be effectively accomplished with zig

zag stitching when the free motion
principle is used.

approximate weave of fabric and are
strong enough to withstand many

launderings.

Darning and embroidery foot (avail

able for separate purchase) provides a
close control of stitch and fabric and
aids handling of difficult materials.

Design is placed in embroidery
hoops to hold fabric taut; hoops are
moved slowly so that needle follows
outline of design. Stitches are shaded
from wide to narrow by controlling
angle at which work is placed and
moved under needle.

66

FASHION* AIDS

The Edge Stitcher

This attachment provides a series of slotted guides which

regulate the placement of stitching in relation to a fabric edge.

Among many decorative and practical applications are

the joining and insertion of lace, tucking from pin wixlth to

1/4", French seaming, piping, facing and seam finishing.

Tucker

Since the beauty of tucking lies in its explicit accuracy,

use of the Tucker will contribute greatly to the attrac
tiveness of the work.

With this time-saving attachment, tucks up to one

inch may be stitched and marked in one operation.

Two adjustable scales are provided to gauge tuck

width and spacing.

67

ADDITIONAL FASHION DISCS

The following additional FASHION Discs are available for

separate purchase at your local SINGER SEWING CENTER . . .

/ %-/

Scallop

^ A A A,

0

Shell Edge

WWW™""

©

Solid Scallop

Key

vfVV\^

©

0

0

Walls of Troy

VV^V"y\^

Zigzag Point

Long Oblique

....

(j:) /wvv\A

Shingfe

wWWW wWWw

Iffff Inf

Pennant

25

Open Pyramid

Spiny

^ IwAyViVl

V»**

V-X Three Step

0

©

0

©

Ball

Curved Mending

Thunderbird

Semaphore

/ li I I I » • j I /

0

©

©

©

0

Block

iWMmm

Fagoting

Comb

wwwwvw.

Pavilion

Wv VMlV VWV Vvyd iMv MNV

Platform

©

Solid Pyramid

68

TO CLEAN THE MACHINE

CLEAN

AND

OIL

, \

CLEAN

BETWEEN

TENSION

DISCS

CLEAN

When in regular use

Machine should be cleaned periodic

ally to remove lint and fluff which may

have accumulated around working

parts. To clean bobbin case area, re

move bobbin case as instructed on

page 69. Oil machine after each clean

ing as instructed on pages 70,71 and 72.

When stored

If machine is to be stored away for

an indefinite period, a thorough brush
cleaning to remove all traces of lint

CLEAN

AND

OIL

and fluff, followed by swabbing of all
exposed parts with SINGER* Oil is
necessary to protect machine against
rust damage.

69

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE BOBBIN CASE

• Open slide plate and remove throat

plate (see page 14).

• Unlock bobbin case by lifting and

pulling holder to right as shown.

• Remove bobbin case from machine.

POSITIONING

STUD

9 Remove all lint, fluff or other foreign

matter which might clog machine.

• Replace bobbin case so that groove

under tension spring fits on hook race
way and fork of case straddles position
ing stud.

• Push bobbin case holder to left until it

snaps down into lock position.

• Replace throat plate and close slide

plate.

70

TO OIL THE MACHINE

To keep your machine in top running condition, use SINGER Oil and SINGER*

Lubricant. Both are quality products especially prepared for sewing machines,
and should always be used in the care of your 328.

• Clean machine periodically as in
structed on page 68.

• Apply a drop of oil to each place

indicated.

• Remove screws A and lift off arm

top cover.

• Apply a small amount of lubricant to gears as

shown. A tube of this lubricant can be pur
chased at your SINGER SEWING CENTER.

NEVER APPLY OIL TO GEARS

71

TO OIL THE MACHINE (Cont’d)

....

.

'S. ''v 'h

nV.> \ 'Vj_ ' _.,

UI

'ff ^TjpQ

Remove face plate and oil the places
indicated.

Open slide plate and apply a drop of oil

to hook raceway as indicated.

V

Close slide plate, replace arm top cover
and face plate.

72

TO OIL THE MACHINE (Cont'd)

Tilt machine back and remove thumb nut from screw B, being careful not to

lose felt washer, and remove cover from underside of machine.

Oil each of the places indicated by arrows. Avoid getting oil on any part of

the motor.

Replace bottom cover.

THE MOTOR REQUIRES NO LUBRICATION

73

ELECTRICAL INFORMATION

The SINGER* Electric Motor in your

machine is furnished for operation on

an alternating current of 110-120 volts,

50/60 cycles. Special motors are avail
able for direct or alternating current
for any voltage between 50 and 145,
and for 32 volts direct current.

Before Inserting Electric Plug, be sure that

voltage and cycles stamped on terminal
cover are within range marked on your
electrical meter installed by your
power company.

Electrical Connectionc Insert plug into

nearest electrical outlet and the ma
chine is ready for operation.

Speed Controller, Speed of machine is

regulated by amount of pressure on
pedal of foot controller or knee lever.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove
the Motor Cover Plate.

SWITCH

Light Switch. Press in to switch light on; press

in again to switch light off.

To Remove Bulb. Remove lamp cover screw and

remove lamp cover. Pull out light guard.

Do not attempt to unscrew bulb. Press it into

socket and turn bulb over to the left to unlock

bulb pins. Remove bulb.

To Replace Bulb. Press new bulb into socket

with bulb pins entering slots of socket. Turn
bulb to the right to lock bulb pins in position.

Slip light guard over socket, replace lamp cover

and fasten it in position with lamp cover screw.

UNLOCKS

BULB PIN

LOCKS

75

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE

FASHION DISC COVER

To Remove

Place several sheets of paper under

two springs as shown. Turn cover all

the way back until it snaps off. Paper

will prevent damage to machine arm
during cover removal.

To Replace

Position cover over arm with lugs
resting on top of springs. Push cover
in direction shown until it snaps into

place.

76

INDEX

PAGE

Applique
Attachments

Button Sewing Foot

Foot Hemmer
General Purpose Foot

Multi-Slotted Binder

Ruffler ......................................................58-63

Seam Guide............................................. .52-53

Special Purpose Foot

Blind Stitched Hems ........................................ 53

Bobbin

Removing

Thread Tension ..............................................25

Winding.......................................................8-10

Bobbin Case

Removal and Replacement ............................69

Threading

Buttonholes

Button Sewing ............................................ 46-47

..........................................................

.................................

............................................

..............................

.............................

...............................

.......................................................

....................................................

..............................................

46-47
54-55
48-51

.56-57

40-45

.40-43

44

7

11

PAGE

Cleaning the Machine .....................68-69

Darning, Free Motion Work
Decorative Hems

.................................

..........

64-65

55

Electrical Information

Light ................................................. 74

Motor

Embroidery, Free Motion Work

.................................................

........

73

65

FASHION Aids ................................... 66

FASHION Disc Cover

Removal and Replacement —

FASHION Discs .......

:.........................30-31

.........

75

Additional ........................................ 67

Removal and Replacement

Free Motion Work

Gathering

..............................................

...........................

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

..............

64-65

.........

29
59

23

Length of Stitch, Regulating ......13 and 34

Mending .............................................

Monograms and Motifs

Needle Insertion

.......... —

.....................

...........

,.51

45

6 and 36

Chart for Fabric, Thread, Needle

and Stitch Length

.........................................

5

Needle Position Selector

Operation of

.......

.....................

....

15

77

INDEX (Cont’d)

PAGE

Needle Position Selector

Two Needle Stitching ....................................38

Zigzag Setting

................................................

33

Oiling and Lubricating .................................70-72

Pleating .........................................................62-63

Preparing to Sew
Pressure Adjustments

Principal Parts of Machine

..............................................

.......................................

.................................

19
26

4

Satin Stitching ..............................................34-35

Seam Finishes ....................................................50

Seams

Knit Fabric

Lingerie

....................................................

..........................................................

49
48

Straight .....................................................20-22

SINGER Service

................................................

3

Stitch Controls

Needle Position Selector
Stitch Width Selector

Stitch Length Regulator

...............................

....................................

........................

13 and 34

15

15

Straight Stitching

Equipment and Settings ...........................16-17

Secondary Positions................................... 18

Two Needles..............................

Tension Adjustments

Bobbin Thread ..........................

Needle Thread

Satin Stitching

.........................

...........................

Threading

Bobbin Case

Single Needle

.............................

...........................

Two Needle .........................

Throat Plate

Changing
General Purpose

...................................

.......................

Lifting Plate ..............................

Straight Stitch

Winding a Bobbin

............................

........................

Zigzag Stitching

Control of Width..............

Equipment
FASHION Discs
Needle Positions
Operation

...............................

.....................

.......................

..................................

Two Needles.......................

.

.........

.

PAGE

...................

......................25

.....................

.....................

......................11

.....................

...............

..................

....37

..14

.....................

.....................

..................

8-10

.....................

.

....................

...............

.

.

...................33

30-31

.....................

.....................

38
24

35
12

27
17

32
27

28
38

To all whom it may concern:

The improper placing or renewal of the trademark SINGER or

any other of the trademarks of The Singer Company (all of which are duly
Registered Trademarks) on any machine that has been repaired, rebuilt,
reconditioned, or altered in any way whatsoever outside a SINGER factory
or an authorized SINGER agency is forbidden.

For your protection

SINGER Sewing Machines are sold and serviced wherever you

see the famous SINGER and Red “S” Trademarks. When your
machine needs servicing call your SINGER SEWING CENTER to be
sure of warranted SINGER parts and service. See address in the
classified telephone directory.

THE SING ER COMPANY