SINGER 1263 User Manual

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Instruction Book for the

Singer Sewing Machine

For Treadle Machine Owners

To adjust your machine for treadle sewing,
loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it toward
you with the right hand while holding hand wheel
with the left hand.

Place both feet on the treadle as illustrated. Turn
hand wheel over toward you, allowing your feet to
move freely with the motion of the treadle. Prac
tice this motion until you are able to start and
keep the machine in operation with the hand
wheel turning toward you. Remember that the
faster you operate the treadle, the faster the
machine will sew.

When you have . J i |\
become accustomed
to the treadle motion,
tighten the hand wheel

knob by turning it away

from you. Place a ^ „

piece of material under I

the presser foot and ^

lower the presser foot
lifter. Now operate the
machine (without
thread) until you
become accustomed
to guiding the material.

Enjoy Sewing!

Copyright © 1981 THE SINGER COMPANY

All Rights Reserved Throughout the World

* A Trademark of the Singer Company

For European Territories—

This product is suppressed for radio and television

interference in accordance with the International
Electrotechnical Connmission of the CISPR.

IMPORTANT: Machines for Great Britain and some

other countries having similar wiring standards are

shipped from the factory without a plug for connection

to the mains. The wire in this mains lead are coloured

in accordance with the following code:

Blue: neutral (N) Brown: live (L)

As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this
appliance may not correspond with the coloured mark

ings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed
as follows:

The wire which is coloured blue must be connected

to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or
coloured black. The wire which is coloured brown
must be connected to the terminal which is marked

with the letter L or coloured red. If a 13 Amp. (BS1363)

plug is used, a 3 Amp. fuse must be fitted, or if any
other type of plug is used, a 5 Amp. fuse must be fitted
either in the plug or adaptor or at the distribution
board.

Dear Customer:
We recommend that for future reference you record

the serial number of your Sewing Machine in the

space provided.

Refer to illustration
at right for location
of serial number on

your machine.

Serial No.

Serial No.

Contents

1. Getting to Know Your Machine 4

Principal Parts
Accessories

2. Getting Ready to Sew 8

Choosing and Changing Accessories
Operating Machine
The Bobbin Thread
Threading the Machine

3. Straight Stitching 26
Setting Selectors

Sewing a Seam.......................................................30

Applications

4. Zig-Zag Pattern Stitching 36

Setting Selectors.................................................... 36

Satin Stitching . .....................................................

Stitch Usage

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4

6

8

16

18

22

26

32

40
42

5. Buttonhoies and Buttons 50

Garment Preparation.............

Four-Step Buttonholing...........................................54

Buttons................................................................... 58

6. Caring for Your Machine 60

7. Twin-Needie Stitching 68

8. Home Service Hints 70

index 72

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50

1. Getting to Know

Your Machine

Principal Parts

1. Spool Pin

2. Thread Guide

3. Bobbin Winder Tension Disc

4. Take-up Lever

5. Needle-Thread Tension Dial

6. Face Plate

7. Presser Foot Lifter

8. Thread Cutter

9. Presser Foot Screw

10. General Purpose Presser Foot

11. Thread Guides

12. Feed

13. General Purpose Needle Plate

14. Slide Plate

15. Bobbin Case

16. Bobbin

17. Needle Clamp

18. Electrical Connections and Speed Controller

19. Hand Wheel

20. Hand Wheel Knob

21. Bobbin Winder Spindle

22. Stitch Width Selector

23. Needle Position Selector

24. Stitch Length Selector

25. Reverse Stitch Push Button and Buttonhole

Balance Knob

26. Stitch Pattern Selector

Accessories

The accessories provided with your sewing machine
are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing
easily.

1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 172336)

2. Singer* Needles

• Style 2020 for general sewing.

• Style 2045 for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and
elastic.

• Style 20251 for twin-needle decorative stitching.

3. Button Foot holds most flat buttons securely for
fastening.

4. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitching
corded seams.

5. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the gen
eral purpose foot to position and guide the hem.

6. Straight Stitch Foot and Straight Stitch Needle
Plate are used when your fabric or sewing pro

cedure requires close control. These accessories
are recommended for all straight stitch sewing.

7. Buttonhole Foot is used to make bar tack but
tonholes in four steps.

8. Special Purpose Foot. Use this for all kinds of
decorative stitching.

9. Snap-in Feed Cover for button sewing, free-

motion work and darning.

10. General Purpose Foot and General Purpose
Needle Plate are on your machine when deliv

ered. Use them for alternating between straight
and zig-zag stitching.

11. Tube of Oil for oiling the machine.,

12. Spool Pin is used for twin-needle sewing.

13. Lint Brush for cleaning your sewing machine.

tCAUTION: Use this needle with the general pur

pose needle plate and general purpose or special pur
pose foot only. Do not use any other accessories with

this needie as needie breakage will occur.

To ensure that you are always provided with the most

modern sewing capabilities, THE MANUFACTURER
reserves the right to change the appearance, design

or accessories of this sewing machine when con

sidered necessary.

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11

2. Getting Ready to Sew

Choosing and Changing

Accessories

CAUTION: Disconnect the power line plug from the

socket outlet when changing needles, feet, or needle
plates, or when leaving the machine unattended. This
eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by
accidentally pressing the speed controller.

Changing Presser Feet

• Raise needle to highest position by turning the hand
wheel toward you.

• Raise presser foot.

1. Press toe of presser foot upward as far as it will go

until it snaps free.

2. Centre the new presser foot under the shank A.

Lower the presser foot lifter so that the shank fits

over the presser foot pin.

3. Press presser foot screw down firmly until foot

snaps into place.

8

Removing and Replacing the Button Foot and Presser Foot Shank

• Raise needle to highest position by turning the hand
wheel toward you.

• Raise the presser foot.

• Loosen presser foot screw A and remove the shank

B, guiding it to the right.

• To replace the accessory, hook shank around the
presser bar and tighten the presser foot screw.

NOTE: Insert the edge of a coin in the seat of the

presser foot screw to loosen Hand tighten it securely.

Attaching Biindstitch Hem Guide

• Raise presser foot, loosen presser foot screw and
slip biindstitch hem guide between screw and shank
of the general purpose foot.

• Be sure underside of the guide clears the slide plate
and front of foot.

• Tighten screw with a coin.

•

10

11

Changing Needle Plates

NOTE: Remove bobbin if it contains thread in order

to prevent thread being caught when plate is replaced.

• Raise needle to highest position by turning the hand
wheel toward you.

• Raise presser foot.

• Open slide plate. Place thumb under right side of
needle plate, lift it up and withdraw it to right.

• Replace needle plate under clamping pin A, push it
firmly to the left and press down until it snaps into
place.

• Close slide plate.

Attaching Snap-in Feed Cover

• Raise needle to highest position by turning hand
wheel toward you.

• Raise presser foot, open slide plate and insert gen
eral purpose needle plate.

• Slide snap-in feed cover away from you over needle
plate until points B and C are positioned directly
over holes in needle plate as illustrated. Snap in
point B. Then push point C in toward point B until it
snaps into place. Close slide plate.

• To remove, open slide plate, then simply lift up front
edge of feed cover and remove. Close slide plate.

Changing the Needle

• Raise needle to its highest position by turning the
hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle-clamp
screw D and remove the needle.

• Insert new needle with the flat side of the needle to
the back, up into clamp E as far as it will go.

• Tighten needle-clamp screw.

12

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Fabric, Thread

The needle and thread you choose will depend upon
the fabric to be stitched. The needle should be fine
enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with

large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric

without being bent or deflected.

FABRIC

FILMY—Chiffon, Organza. Tulle, Voile

SHEER —Net. Lacc, Ninon. Crepe de Chine. Voile

LIGHT—Velvet, Crepe de Chine, Shantung, Faille,

Organdy. Muslin, Batiste. Dimity. Lawn,
Percale, Piqué, Poplin Cashmere, Flannel,
Mohair, relt. Taffeta, Satin. Challis. Eyelet.
Gingham, Crepe, Broadcloth

MEDIUM—Velvet, Crepe de Chine, Shantung,

Suiting, Satin. Crepe, Velveteen. Corduroy.
Fleece, Flannel, Gabardine, Felt, Serge, Mohair

HEAVY—Brocade, Taffeta, Satin, Crepe, Corduroy,

Linen. Drapery Fabric, Burlap. Suiting.
Gabardine, Poplin Denim, Ticking, Canvas

VERY HEAVY-Denim, Duck, Canvas, Sailcloth,

Coating, Blanketing, Upholstery Fabric

KNITS, STRETCH AND ELASTICS—Jersey. Ciré,

Sweater Knit, Bonded Knit, Tricot, Stretch Terry,

Double Knit, Spandex, Deep Pile, Fake Furs

LEATHER, PLASTIC, VINYLS-Kidskin, Patent

Leathers and Suedes, Plastic Film, Imitation
Upholstery Vinyl and Leather

14

and Needle Table

The eye of the needle must be large enough for the

thread to pass through it freely: too fine a needle will
cause the thread to fray.

The table below Is a guide to needle and thread selec

tion. Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Be

sure to use the same size and type of thread in both
needle and bobbin.

THREAD

Fine silk, cotton,

mere, or synth.

Fine silk, cotton,

mere, or synth.

Fine silk, cotton,

mere, or synth.

Medium cotton,

mere, or synth.

Medium silk, cotton.

mere, or synth.

Heavy silk, cotton,

mere, or synth.

NEEDLE

Style Size

2020 9,11

2020 9,11

2020

onoo

9090

Heavy silk, cotton,

mercerized or
synthetic

Fine, medium, or

heavy synthetic

Fine mere. & synth.

Med. mere. & synth. or

Hvy. mere. & synth.

15

2020

2026

¿.wo

2020 11,14,16
2032 11,14,16,18

14

Operating Machine

Connecting Machine

Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the volt
age and number of cycles indicated on the electrical
nameplate A, conform to your electrical power supply.

If your speed controller cord has a motor discon

nect plug, push plug B into the receptacle at the right

end of machine. Then connect plug C to your socket
outlet.

if the speed controller cord is wired directly to the

motor, simply connect plug C to your socket outlet.

CAUTION: Disconnect the power line plug from the

socket outlet when changing needles, feet, or needle
plates or when leaving the machine unattended. This
eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by
accidentally pressing the speed controller.

If your machine has a sewing light switch, press or
turn switch on the machine, as required.

If machine has a three-position switch:

• The OFF setting (switch moved to O symbol).

• The MIN. setting (switch moved to I symbol) al
lows the maximum control for special jobs.

• The MAX. setting (switch moved to f1 symbol) al
lows for full speed capacity of the machine.

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i

To run the machine and control speed, press the
speed controller D^with your foot. The harder you
press, the faster the machine will sew. To stop ma
chine, remove foot from controller.

CAUTION: Because of the up and down movement
of the needle, you must work carefully and watch the
sewing area when operating the machine.

16

17

The Bobbin Thread

Winding the Bobbin

Preparation Steps

1, Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel toward

you until needle is in highest position.

Z Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it toward you

with the right hand while holding hand wheel with
the left hand.

3. Place thread spool on spool pin with thread retain
ing slit B on top. (Break paper at the end of spool if
necessary.)

Winding Steps

• Lead thread around bobbin winder tension disc C,
as illustrated, and through small hole in bobbin from
inside out.

• Place bobbin on spindle and move bobbin winder

D to right.

• Hold thread end and start the machine. Cut off
thread end after a few colls have been wound.

• When required amount of thread has been wound
(winding will stop when bobbin is full) stop machine
and cut connecting thread.

• Move bobbin winder to the left and remove bobbin.

• Hold hand wheel and tighten hand wheel knob.

18

19

Threading the Bobbin Case

1. Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in direction

shown, and insert bobbin in bobbin case.

2. Pull thread into notch A in bobbin case, draw it

toward left and into slot B.

3. Draw approximately 10cm (4 inches) of thread diag
onally across the bobbin.

4. Close slide plate, allowing thread to extend through
the slot between the slide plate and the needle plate.

20

21

Threading the Machine

• Place spool of thread on spool pin over spool pin felt.

If spool being used has a thread retaining slit A, it

should be placed at the top, as illustrated.

• Raise the presser foot, to release thread tension.

• Raise the take-up lever to highest position by turn

ing hand wheel toward you.

• Holding thread ends in each hand, snap thread into

upper thread guide 1.

• Pass thread through thread guide 2.

• With right hand on thread spool, thread the needle
thread tension 3. Slide thread over metal plate be
tween tension discs with left hand. Lead thread

under tension and tension wire. Thread tension wire
by firmly pulling thread up and over to the right.

• Guide thread through point 4,

• Thread take-up lever 5, as illustrated.

• Draw thread through points 6 and 7, guiding thread
from rear of each guide to the right.

• Pass thread through guide 8. Thread the needle 9

from front to back, drawing 10cm (4 inches) of thread
through the needle eye.

22

•

Raising the Bobbin Thread

Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand

wheel slowly toward you until the needle enters plate.

Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle

thread until needle rises. Tighten your hold on the
needle thread and bring up bobbin thread in a loop.

Open the loop with your fingers. Draw approximately
10 cm (4 inches) of both threads under the presser foot
and place them diagonally to left. Close slide plate.

24

3. straight Stitching

Setting Selectors

Before you move the selectors to set your machine for

straight stitching, turn the hand wheel toward you until
the needle is above the needle plate.

• Needle Position:!. [2 JL

• Stitch Width: □II if

• Stitch Length: 1.5-4 to suit fabric

Straight stitching can be performed with pattern selec
tor in either position and stitch width lever at j only.

Adjusting Stitch Length

The stitch length dial controls the length of stitches.
The numbers around the edge of the dial express

stitch length in mm; the lower the number, the shorter

the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for light

weight fabric. The area from 0 to 1 is used for the

adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (see page 40).

Setting the Dial

• Turn dial so that stitch length desired is positioned
under ^ symbol.

• To shorten stitch length, turn dial toward a lower
number.

• To lengthen stitch length, turn dial toward a higher
number.

For reverse stitching, depress push button located in
centre of dial, hold in until reverse stitching is com
pleted, then release push button.

26

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27

Needle Thread Tension

Having selected the correct needle and thread com
bination for the fabric being used, it may be necessary
to adjust the tension of the sewing machine to insure
a well-balanced stitch.

A well-balanced stitch is produced when the top and

under thread appear the same on the fabric.

Your machine has an adjustable top tension control
system. This control exerts tension on the threads as
they pass through the machine to form a stitch.

• Too much tension will produce a tight stitch which'
will cause puckered seams.

• Too little tension will produce a loose stitch.

When an even amount of tension is exerted on both
threads, a smooth even stitch known as a balanced
stitch, is produced.

Tension Test

To help understand the effect of tension on fabric and
thread, try this simple test:

• Take two pieces of a medium weight woven fabric
in a solid light colour about 15cm (6 inches) long.

• Place a 2020 size 14 needle in the machine.

• Thread the top of your machine with a polyester or
cotton dark colour thread and use a lighter colour
thread of the same fibre and size in the bobbin.

• Select straight stitch.

• Seam the two pieces of fabric together starting with
the top tension control at t Then as you sew, slowly
turn the tension control from 1 through 9.

• Sew another row turning the dial back to 1. You
should have a balanced stitch on each row between

the start and finish in each case.

• The different coloured threads will help you to see
the effect that the tension has on the top and bottom
threads.

Now that you have observed the effects of tension,
we suggest that you perform a similar test on a scrap
of fabric you plan to use, being sure to duplicate the

number of thicknesses of your garment.

28

29

Sewing a Seam

1. Select straight stitch and set the stitch length dial

on desired setting. Raise presser foot. Pull thread
back under presser foot leaving at least 10cm
(4 inches) of thread.

2. Position needle approximately 1.3cm (1/2 inch) from
fabric edge. Then lower presser foot and backstitch
almost to the edge of the fabric for reinforcement
by stitching in reverse direction. For additional in
formation on reverse stitching refer to page 26.
Stitch forward to end of seam and stop machine
before the end of stitching line. (Do not sew beyond
edge of fabric.)

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are

stitching as this may deflect the needle causing it

to break.

3. Raise needle by turning hand wheel toward you.
Press reverse stitch push button, and back stitch

1.3cm (1/2 inch) to reinforce end of stitching.

4. Raise needle by turning hand wheel toward you.
Raise foot and remove fabric by drawing it to the
back and to the left. Cut threads on thread cutter at
rear of presser bar.

30

31

Applications

Darning with an Embroidery Hoop

• Needle Position: 1» [XI A

• Stitch Width: □ Mil

• Stitch Length: 0

• No Presser Foot

• Snap-in Feed Cover

• Embroidery Hoop Designed for Machine Use

• Position work under needle and lower presser bar.

• Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand

wheel toward you, and draw bobbin thread up
through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower
needle into fabric.

• Stitch across opening, moving hoop under needle

at a slight angle from lower left to upper right. Keep

lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length.

When opening is filled, cover area with crosswise

lines of stitching.

Quilting

Quilting is the art of stitching two or more thicknesses

of fabric together in a planned design. A padding is

stitched to the underside of the fabric to produce a
soft, puffed effect that is becoming to some wearing
apparel and to many fabric furnishings.

Preparing the Fabric

Baste a light padding of cotton flannel, synthetic quilt
batting, sheet wadding, or a lightweight wool interlin

ing to the underside of the fabric. When using sheet
wadding, first back it with voile, batiste, or net to pre
serve the sheet wadding through wear. Baste the lay

ers'of fabric and padding together on the lengthwise
and crosswise grains.

Basic Procedure

• Draw both threads under the foot and diagonally
across feed to left.

• Position the needle, lower the foot and start stitching.

32

33

Zipper Insertion

How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of
garment and the location of the zipper. With the adjust
able zipper foot, you wiil find it easy to sew an even
line of stitching close to the zipper. For instructions on
inserting zipper foot on machine, see page 8.

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Width: □ Mii

• Stitch Length: To suit fabric

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• Zipper Foot

• Speed: MIN.

The zipper foot can be used either to the left or right
of the needle, depending on where the teeth of the
zipper are placed.

Adjusting the Zipper Foot

When the zipper Is to the right of the needle:
A. Attach right side of zipper foot to shank (needle will

enter right notch in foot).

When the zipper is to the left of the needle:

B. Attach the left side of zipper foot to shank (needle

will enter left notch in foot).

34

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35

4. Zig-Zag

Pattern Stitching

AM/\AAMAWWWWV^AAM/

.A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A..A

Setting Selectors

Before turning selector, make sure needle Is out of
the fabric.

1. stitch Pattern Selector

With your sewing machine you can do two kinds
of zig-zag stitching: plain zig-zag ^ and blind­stitching j . The pattern selector, located on the
control panel, controls stitch selection.

To Select Pattern

• First make sure needle is above fabric.

• For plain zig-zag stitching, slide pattern selector
level to ^ .

• For blindstitching, slide pattern selector lever
to 1 .

2. Needle Position Selector

Most of your zig-zag stitching will be done in centre

JL needle position.

Left i. and right A settings are used for spe

cial stitch placement.

3. stitch Width Selector

To produce a plain zig-zag or a decorative stitch,
the stitch width selector is moved from its straight
stitch position I to any of its other four positions.
The further you move the selector toward the right,
the wider your stitch will be.

36

37

4. Adjusting Stitch Length

Any stitch length setting from 1 to 4 mm will give
you an open zig-zag stitch.

The higher the number, the more open, or farther
apart your stitches will be.

The area between 0 and 1 on the dial is used for the

adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching, a series of
closely spaced plain zig-zag stitches that form a
smooth, satin-like surface. (Refer to page 40 for
information on satin stitching.)

5. Needle-Thread Tension

The needle-thread tension dial regulates the
amount of tension on the needle thread and lets
you select just the right setting for your fabric and
thread. The numbers on the dial eliminate guess
work in duplicating settings.

Zig-zag stitching requires less tension than straight
stitching. Notice the stitching on your test sample.

The stitches should lie flat against the fabric with

out causing the fabric to pucker. If the stitches are
not flat and the fabric is puckering, lower the ten
sion by turning the dial to a lower number.

6. Bobbin Thread Tension

Bobbin thread tension is controlled by screw A,

located on the bobbin case. The tension is set at
the factor for regular sewing and should not be
adjusted unless the corners of a zig-zag stitch can

not be locked by adjusting the needle-thread
tension.

On those rare occasions when it becomes neces
sary to adjust the bobbin thread tension, use a very
small screwdriver. A very slight turn of screw A
will change the appearance of your stitching.

• To increase tension, turn screw to the right.

• To decrease tension, turn screw to the left.

38

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Satin Stitching

When you wish to produce a satin stitch, make a test
sample first so you can adjust stitch length and thread

tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing to

insure a firm stitch. Crisp organdy, lawn or a fusible
interfacing are suitable for this purpose.

Accessory and Selector Settings

• Pattern: Zig-Zag

• Needle Position; JL PH

• stitch Width:

• Stitch Length: Oto 1

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

im

Adjusting Stitch Length

• Turn stitch length selector dial to 1.

• Run the machine at a slow speed and slowly turn
stitch length dial toward the right until stitches are
ciosely spaced and form a smooth surface.

Adjusting Needle Thread Tension

Zig-zag stitching usually requires less needle thread

tension than straight stitching. Thread machine cor

rectly and make a test sample with the same fabric,
thread, needle and stitch pattern combination you
plan to use. Stitches should lie flat without causing

fabric to pucker.

If puckering occurs, lower the tension by turning dial

to a lower number. An underlay or tissue paper back

ing may be needed.
Satin stitching requires less tension than straight

stitching or open zig-zag stitching. Furthermore, the

wider the stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread

must be. Notice the stitching on your sample. If the

fabric is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension

by turning the tension dial to a lower number.

40

Stitch Usage

Appliqué

The stitch most commonly used in appliqué is a plain
zig-zag, closely spaced to form a satin stitch. The
width of this stitch can be varied to accommodate
fabrics of different weaves and textures. Other stitch

patterns can also be used.

Preparation

Make a test sample to decide which of the following
methods is the most appropriate for your fabric and
design. Mark design on piece of fabric to be appliquéd.
Cut out design leaving about 2 cm (3/4 inch) margin
all around. Position the design. Baste it to the fabric.

Method 1

• Select pattern and adjust stitch width dial for desired
appliqué stitch. Adjust stitch length to fine setting,

between 1 and 0.

• Follow the outer edge of the design with a decora
tive stitch.

• Trim away the excess fabric on the outer edges of
the stitching.

Method 2

• Select straight stitch.

• Outline the entire design with a short stitch.

• Trim raw edges to the stitching and remove basting.

• Select stitch pattern and stitch width desired, and
set stitch length on a satin stitch setting for a closely

spaced stitch, between 1 and 0.

• Stitch, following the straight stitch outline. This

method will produce a smooth overedged finish,

with no raw edges to be trimmed after stitching.

Method 3

• Purchased motifs can be appliquéd quickly and

easily by using either a straight or decorative stitch.

42

43

Zig-Zag Seam Finishes

Seam edges support the garment and should be given
a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. There are

two methods of finishing seams in such fabrics: trim

ming seam edge or overedging. Make a test sample to
determine which method best suits your fabric.

• Pattern: Zig-Zag

• Needle Position: X* [XI ^

• Stitch Width: i ||| j fl

• Stitch Length: 1 to 3 to suit fabric

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

Method 1—Trimmed Seam Finish

• Adjust stitch width and length to give you the most
open stitch that will secure the fabric edge; avoid

harsh overstitching.

• Stitch near the edge of seam allowance and trim
seam edges evenly after stitching.

Method 2—Overedge Seam Finish

• Adjust needle thread tension, stitch width and stitch

length to suit fabric.

• Trim seam edges evenly.

• Place trimmed seam under the foot and overedge

the seam allowance as illustrated.

Lingerie Seams

To make a lingerie seam durable and flexible use the
plain zig-zag stitch at a narrow width setting. This
seam treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams.
When seaming nylon tricot insert a 2045 needle in the
machine before you begin to sew.

• Straight stitch the seam line on wrong side of fabric.

• Press both seam allowances in the same direction.

• From the right side, topstitch with narrow zig-zag

stitching, letting the needle alternately enter the
seam line and seam thickness. (Stitch width narrow;
stitch length 1 to 1.5.)

44

45

Blindstitch Hems

Blindstitching provides a durable hem finish that is
almost invisible. While it is best suited to straight or
slightly curved hems, taped, bound, or turned hem
edges can also be blindstitched with ease.

• Stitch; Blindstitch

• Needle Position: L S -I

• Stitch Width: j »o*

• stitch Length: To suit fabric

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

• Blindstitch Hem Guide

1. Raise presser foot, loosen screw, and slip blind
stitch hem guide between screw and shank of foot.

Make sure underside of the guide clears the slide

plate and front of foot. Tighten screw with coin.

2. Prepare hem in the usual way. It is advisable to
baste the hem. Place the basting at least 1.3 cm

{Vz inch) below the edge of hem allowance to avoid

catching the flange of guide as you stitch.

3. With the wrong side of work uppermost, turn the
hem under, creating a soft fold from the top edge

of hem.

4. Position hem under the foot with the soft fold resting
against the wall of guide. Make sure the flange of

the guide is between soft fold and top of hem, as

shown.

5. Lower presser foot. Stitch so that the straight
stitches fall on the hem allowance and zig-zag
stitches pierce the soft fold of work. Adjust stitch
width if necessary. While stitching, guide hem edge

in a straight line and feed soft fold evenly against

wall of the guide.

46

47

Ladder Seam

The blindstitch ladder seam is particularly appropriate
for knit and stretch fabrics. It is ideal for stretchable
construction seams, and edge finishes for necklines,

pockets and collars in sportswear and swimsuits.

• Pattern: Blindstitch

• Needle Position: [XI «1

• Stitch Width: i 11 | 1 jf|

• Stitch Length: 1.5 to 2.5

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

Make a test sample to adjust stitch width and length
and needle thread tension to suit the fabric. Needle
thread tension should be lighter than normal.

Cut and fit garment, allowing for 1.5 cm (5/8 inch)
seam allowance..Baste seam line.

Place fabric under presser foot so that the straight
stitches fall oh the seam line basting and the points
toward the centre of the garment.

After stitching, open seam by pulling fabric back on

opposite sides of the seam to produce ladder effect.

Press seam allowance after opening.

48

49

5. Buttonholes

and Buttons

Buttonholes can be made easily with the built-in four-

step method. Before sewing on your garment, always

make a test buttonhole duplicating the number of

thicknesses of fabric and interfacing if appropriate.

Garment Preparation

Buttonhole Position

Accurate guidelines are essential to keep buttonholes
at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment,
evenly spaced, and on the grain of the fabric.

1. Mark the centre line on the garment. This guideline
can be made by machine or hand basting or using

tailor’s chalk.

Be sure that the space from the centre line to the

finished edge of the garment is at least equal to
three-quarters the diameter of the button. With this
spacing, the button will not extend beyond the edge
when the garment is buttoned.

Make sure that the centre line marking follows a
lengthwise fabric thread.

A. Centre line

B. Buttonhole

C. Finished Edge of Garment

D. Diameter of Button

2. Mark a position guideline for each buttonhole.
Horizontal buttonholes B are placed to extend 3mm

(1/8 inch) beyond the centre line A of the garment, as
shown, so that the buttons will be In the centre of the
figure when the garment is fastened.

Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should follow a
crosswise fabric thread.

• Mark the horizontal buttonhole guideline for each
buttonhole. It should be longer than the finished

length of the buttonhole.

• Mark the starting point for each buttonhole 3mm
(1/8 inch) beyond the centre line (see illustration).

50

51

Vertical buttonholes C are placed so that the centre

line A of the garment is in the centre of the buttonhole,

as shown.

• Mark the ends of each buttonhole horizontally
across the centre line basting and use the centre
line marking as the buttonhole guide when stitching.

Buttonhole Length

• The buttonhole length should be just long enough to
allow the button to slip through the opening without
stretching It.

• To make sure the measurement is correct, cut a slit

in a scrap of fabric equal to the diameter of the but

ton you intend to use.

• Increase length of opening until button slips through
easily.

This test is particularly advisable for buttons of un

usual shape or thickness.

52

J

53

Four-Step Buttonholing

The four dial settings for buttonholing are located on
the stitch length selector. As you turn the dial for each

step, your machine is automatically set for the correct

needle position, stitch width, and stitch length, as well
as for stitching direction for that step. You need not
turn the fabric during buttonholing

• Pattern: Zig-Zag

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• Buttonhole Foot

Preparation

• Prepare and mark your garment, as instructed on
page 50.

• Position work under needle, aligning centre marking
of buttonhole with centre line on the foot. Align end
marking of buttonhole with the horizontal lines on
the foot.

• Set the buttonhole balance knob K in neutral posi

tion, as illustrated. The buttonhole balance knob,
when turned slightly to the right or left, enables you
to balance the stitch density of both sides of the
buttonhole. Refer to the next page for information on
balancing buttonhole stitch density.

Step 1: Side Stitching

Raise needle above the fabric and turn the buttonhole
dial to step 1. Position needle in fabric at point A.

Lower the footend stitch to end of buttonhole (point B).
The end marking should be aligned with the horizontal
lines on the foot.

Step 2: Bar Tack

Raise the needle out of the fabric. Turn buttonhole dial
to step 2 and take at least four stitches. Stop at point C.

Step 3: Side Stitching

Raise the needle out of the fabric.Turn buttonhole dial
to step 3. Complete work to point D. Raise needle.

Step 4: Bar Tack

Raise the needle out of the fabric and turn buttonhole
dial to step 4. Take at least four stitches ending at

point E. For a smooth, satin appearance and greater
durability, stitch around the buttonhole a second time

by repeating the four-step sequence.

54

к

в

55

Balancing the Buttonhole

Stitch density on left and right sides of the buttonhole
may be balanced by adjusting the buttonhole balance
knob K. Use the buttonhole balance knob to obtain
similar stitch appearance on left and right sides of the
buttonhole. A very slight turn will produce a noticeable
density change.

To change the density on either side of your test but
tonhole follow the procedure below. Before sewing

on your garment, be sure to make a test but

tonhole on a sample of your fabric to check that

the stitch density is similar on left and right sides

of your buttonhole.

1. Make a test buttonhole with the balance knob in
neutral position (indicator line or dot directly
below ^symbol on control panel).

2. If the stitches on the right side of the buttonhole
are too open, turn the balance knob from its neutral
position to the right to increase density of the side
stitching.

3. If the stitches on the left side of the buttonhole are
too open, turn the blance knob from its neutral
position to the left to increase density of the side
stitching.

After buttonhole stitching is completed, return bal
ance knob to its neutral position (indicator line or dot
directly below ^symbol on control panel).

56

57

t;

Buttons

Most flat buttons can be sewn quickly and easily using
the zig-zag stitch.

• Pattern: Zig-Zag

• Needle Position: i» [I] JL

• Stitch Width: i | | [f| ^

• ^itch Length: 0
General Purpose Needle Plate

• Snap-in Feed Cover

• Button Foot

Sewing on a Button

• Set your machine up according to the code above.

• Mark position of button on garment. Place garment
under foot. Align garment so that the button is

directly under the foot. Lower the presser foot to grip
button centrally.

1. Turn hand wheel very slowly toward you until nee
dle point aligns with hole of the button. Adjust zig

zag stitch width, if necessary to permit clean entry
of the needle.

2. Continue turning hand wheel one complete
revolution and observe that the needle point is pro
perly positioned to enter the other hole.

• Take SIX to twelve stitches.

• Remove garment from machine. Pull threads to un

derside of garment and trim.

58

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6. Caring for Your Machine

Cleaning the Machine

CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, discon

nect the power line plug from the socket outlet.

Periodically, depending on machine use, clean
and oil A your machine, using one drop of oil on
illustrated areas. We suggest that you check your
machine after completing every two or three sewing
projects.

Top and Bottom Covers

Clean and oil the top and bottom areas marked on the

Illustrations. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws.

To replace the covers, simply line up the screwholes
and replace screws with a screwdriver.

60

f

61

f

Face Plate Area

To clean | and oil 4 the front interior of machine,

remove screw from face plate. With a soft cloth or lint
brush, clean and oil points indicated by arrows. Re
place face plate and screw.

Bobbin and Feed Areas

To clean bobbin and feed areas, remove needle plate,
as instructed on page 12. Remove bobbin case as in
structed on next page. Using soft cloth or brush, clean
area as illustrated. Replace needle plate and bobbin
case, as instructed on page 12 and 64.

Exterior Areas

If necessary, a mild solution of soap and water may be
used on exterior areas to remove stubborn stains. No

other cleaning liquid or powder should be used.

CAUTION; Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt

Contact your nearest Service Centre should any ad
justment be required.

62

63

Removing and Replacing Bobbin Case

CAUTION: Before removing bobbin case, dis

connect the power-line plug from the socket out

let

IMPORTANT: The bobbin case is manufac

tured from a special phenolic compound specially

designed to provide smooth friction-free sewing.

With proper handling the bobbin case will give you

years of reliable, trouble-free sewing. The bobbin

case is the most important part of your sewing
machine. Please handle with care and do not

force when removing and replacing it

• Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to its

highest position.

1. Open slide plate, remove needle plate and
remove bobbin.

2. Insert screwdriver into bobbin case holder A and
turn It toward the rear as illustrated.

3. To remove bobbin case:

• Insert index finger Into centre of bobbin case.
With index finger and thumb gently lift and
push bobbin case away from you until the case

is released from holder.

4. To replace bobbin case:

• Insert index finger into centre of case and grip
with thumb above the screws. Gently slide the
flat tab at the rear of the bobbin case under

neath ihe curved section of feed B while main

taining slight upward pressure, then slide bob

bin case all the way to the rear. Lower the bob
bin case and draw It toward you so that tab G Is
positioned under plate D. Gently wiggle case to
insure proper seating in the rim of the rotating
hook. In this position bobbin case should be

free to float slightly from side to side.

• When you are sure bobbin case is properly
seated lock case Into position by turning holder

Aback,as illustrated.
Replace bobbin, needle plate and close slide

plate.

•

64

65

Changing the Light Buib

CAUTION: Before changing light bulb make sure

you have disconnected power line plug from socket
outlet. This machine is designed to use a 15-watt max
imum bayonet base bulb only.

The screw located on the machine face plate must
be removed before the face plate can be opened.

• Remove face plate.

• Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb.

1, Press it up into the socket and at the same time turn

bulb over in direction shown to unlock the bulb pin
and guide out of socket.

• Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pins enter
ing slot of socket.

2, Turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in

position.

• Replace face plate.

Replacing the Slide Plate

You will not have any occasion to remove the slide
plate. However, if it should accidentally become dis
engaged from the machine, it is easily replaced.

• Raise the presser foot and make sure needle is in its
highest position.

• Place slide plate In slide way with the front edge
close to, but not covering, the retaining spring (as
shown).

• With a small screwdriver, lift each end of the spring
into each of the side grooves on the underside of the
plate.

• Draw the plate gently toward you and fully engage
the spring.

• Close slide plate.

66

2 (&»

67

7. Twin-Needle Stitching

Twin-needle sewing capability has been built into this
sewing nnachine. The twin-needle simultaneodsly
produces two parallel, closely spaced lines of pattern
stitching. You can stitch with either one or two colours
of thread.

Stitch: Pattern desired
Needle Position: X. IS JL only

stitch Width: I] | 11 f ^ onlyf

Stitch Length: .5-4 to suit fabric
Generai Purpose Needie Piate
General Purpose Foot

tCAUTION: Do not use a stitch width greater than

what is recommended. A wider stitch wiii resuit in

needie breakage.

Procedure

• Insert twin-needle.

• Thread as for single-needle stitching, except pass
thread between centre and back tensbn discs A,
and through eye of ieft needle.

• Insert a second spool pin Into hole on the top cover
of nnachine, as illustrated.

• Place second spool of thread on right spool pin
and felt.

• Thread machine in usual way, except pass thread
from second spool between centre and front ten
sion discs B, as shown.

• Thread through remaining points, making certain
to omit the thread guide above the needle and pass
thread through eye of right needle.

68

69

8. Home Service Hints

Whenever sewing difficulty is encountered, review the
sections of the instruction book that explain the opera
tion you are performing to make sure you are using the

machine correctly. If the problem still exists, the fol
lowing checklist may help you to correct it.

If you still have difficulties, call your nearest Sewing

Centre.

What to Do If...

Needle Breaks

• Make sure needle is fully in

serted into needle clamp.......................see page 12,13

• Make sure needle is not being
piilled to one side as fabric is

removed from the machine..................see page 30,31

• Make sure presser foot or
accessory is securely fas

tened to presser bar..............................see page 10,11

• Make sure fabric is not being

pulled while sewing..............................see page 30,31

• Make sure stitch width does
not exceed li III i i when
a twin-needle is used see page 68,69

Thread Breaks

• Make sure machine is prop
erly threaded

• Make sure needle-thread ten
sion is not too tight

• Make sure thread is unwind

ing freely from spool

• Make sure bobbin case area

is free of lint and loose

threads

......................................

......................................

....................

............... see page 18,19,22,23

see page 28,29,40,41

see page 62,63,64,65

see page 22,23

• Make sure the needle is
straight and sharp

.................................

see page 14,15

70

Fabric Does Not Feed Properly

• Make sure presser foot is cor

rectly attached to machine....................see page 10,11

• Make sure stitch length dial is

correctly set...............................see page 26,27,40,41

• Make sure lint has not accu
mulated around feed

...........................

seepage 62,63

Skipped Stitches

• Make sure needle is correct
style for machine and size for
thread

• Make sure machine is cor

rectly threaded

• Make sure needle is securely

fastened to needle bar

• Make sure the needle is nei

ther bent nor damaged

..............................................................

....................................

..........................

....................................

see page 22,23

see page 12,13

see page 14,15

see page 14,15

Fabric Puckers

• Make sure needle-thread ten
sion is not too tight

....................

see page 28,29,40,41

Thread Breaks While Winding Bobbin

• Make sure machine is cor

rectly threaded

• Make sure thread is unwind

ing freely from spool

......................................

.............................

71

see page 18,19

see page 18,19

Index

Accessories

Appliqué .................................

Bobbin...........

................................................................

...........

...................................................

^....................42,43

6,7,18,19

6,7

Winding...............................................................18,19

Bobbin Case...........................................................64,65

Removing

..........................................................

64,65

Threading...........................................................20,21

Bobbin Thread

...................................

18,19,20,21,24,25

Raising............................................................... 24,25

Buttons
Buttonholes

...................................................................

...........................................................

58,59

50-57

Position . . . ....................................................... 50-53

Procedure.......................................................... 54-57

Caring tor Your Machine

........................................

60-67

Cleaning the Machine.............................................60-63

Connecting the Machine ........................................16,17

Darning...................................................................32,33

Fabric, Thread and Needle Table...........................14,15

Feed Cover...................................................... 6,7,12,13

Attaching and Removing................................... 12,13

Handwheel..................................................................4,5

Light Bulb.............................................................. 66,67

Needle ...................................: 6,7,12-15,22,23,28,29,38-41

Changing

...........................................................

12,13

Position............................................................ 36,37

Thread Tension

.............................

28,29,38,39,40,41

Threading ...........................................................22,23

Needle Plates

Changing Plates

...................................................

................................................

6,7,12,13

12,13

General Purpose.....................................................6,7

Operating the Machine

..........................................

16,17

Oiling the Machine..................................................60-63

Presser Feet

...........................................................

.6-11

Changing Feet..............................................8,9,10,11

Presser Foot Lifter......................................................4,5

Principal Parts ... ........................................................4,5

Ouilting ...................................................................32,33

Reverse Stitching ........................................26,27,30,31

Satin Stitching

......................................................

40,41

Seams ......................................................... 30,31,48,49

Seam Finishes........................................................44,45

Speed Controller ..............................................4,5,16,17

Stitch Length

................................

4,5,26,27,38,39,40,41

Stitch Width.......................................................4,5,36,37

Straight Stitching

..................................................

26,27

Take-up Lever ............................................................4,5

Threading the Machine

...........................................

22,23

Twin-Needle Stitching.............................................68,69

Zig-Zag Stitching

....................................................

36-39

Form No. 21894 Printed in Taiwan

Part No. 173497-001

72