SINGER 1200 User Manual

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___

sewing machine • model 1200 • two way sewing surface

^ _

..........................

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■state

Congratulations ...

You are about to sew on the new. advanced electronic sewing machine .. .

Athens' 1200.

It makes sewing simple, foolproof and fun!

After years of Singer research, the Athens 1200 sewing machine features these important technological breakthroughs;

«> Exclusive Solid-state Electronic Sewing System. Athens 1200 is the

sewing machine with the electronic “brain.” A wealth of stitch patterns. It automatically programs your machine to sew any one of twenty-one different practical and decorative stitches plus the two-step buttonhole.

® Exclusive Light Toych Fingertip Controls. They’re the buttons on the

front of the machine. You simply touch the one under the stitch you want — the red indicator light comes on — and the Athens 1200 is ready

to sew. Any stitch Is instantly available at the touch of a button.

9 Exclusive individual Preference Panel Your own "control panel,” it

allows you to modify the programmed stitch dimensions to suit special fabrics and satisfy personal preferences.

V..«

And that is only the beginning! There are many more new features. Such as

the Exclusive Pattern Repeat Sutton —that lets you sew one unit of a pattern,

for original decorative touches. And Exclusive Light Touch Fingertip Reverse Button — for an instant reverse straight stitch. The Athens 1200 also has such

Singer advantages as the Exclusive flip & Sew* panel for both flat and In-theround sewing. Soft-Touch Fabric Feed that protects even the most delicate fabrics. A variable speed Solid-state Controi System, that enables you to

maintain the same pressure on the speed controller as you sew through vary

ing fabric thicknesses. In addition, the Athena 1200 has these Singer design features — a one-way

needle clamp that makes it impossible to put the needle in backwards, snapon presser feet that are quickly removed and easily replaced, and easy-tochange needle plates secured by magnets.

We suggest you take a few moments to read through this operator's guide, as you sit at your new machine. You will quickly discover how simple It is to do any sewing operation you desire on Athena 1200.

Cosyrisf!; ® 1977 5y THE SSNOES COUPAHy

Aii ae$0rveci Throughou; Sne WOficS

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Contents

Page

1. Getting to Know Your Machine ..................................................................................................................................... 2

Principal Parts............................................................................................................................................................ 2

Accessories ................................................................................................................................................................... 3

2. Getting Ready to Sew.................................................................................................................................................... 6

Choosing Needles ......................................................................................................................................................... 6

Choosing and Changing Accessories ........................................................................................................................... 7

Operating the Machine................................................................................................................................................... 9

Fabric Weight Table .................................................................................................................................................... 1C

Fabric. Thread, and Needle Table.............................................................................................................................. 12

Threading the Machine............................................................................................................................................... 14

The Bobbin................................................................................................................................................................... 16

Winding the Bobbin • Changing the Bobbin

3. Electronic Sewing..................................................................................................................................................... 20

Seiecting a Stitch.......................................................................................................................................................... 20

Patter.n Repeat Button © individual Preferences

Stitch Adjustments........................................................................................................................................................ 22

Stitch Width « Stitch Length « Stitch Length Guidance Table » Reverse Stitch-Balance «

Twin-Needle Switch

4. Straight Stitching ............................................................................................................................................................. 25

Preparation................................................................................................................................................................... 25

Fabric Handling.......................................................................................................................................................... 27

Pin Basting ® Speed Basting

Sewing a Seam ........................................................................................................................................................... 2S

Placing Fabric under Foot ® Sewing with a Newly Wound Bobbin « Keeping Sea.ms Straight ®

Turning Square Corners ® Curved Seams ® Reinforcing End of Seam

Applications................................................................................................................................................................ 32

Darning « Quilting * Chainstitchlng

5. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 40

Zig-Zag Stitching .......................................................................................................................................................... 40

Creative Applications .................................................................................................................................................. 41

6. Machine Stitch Patterns................................................................................................................................................... 46

Adjusting Stitches for Stretch Fabrics .......................................................................................................................... 46

Handling Special Fabrics.............................................................................................................................................. 47

Stitch Centering ........................................................................................................................................................... 48

Stitch Usage: Functional and Decorative..................................................................................................................... 49

Decorative Stitching ................................................................................................................................................... 64

Border Designs • Monograms • Topstitching « Smocking »Twin-Needle Stitching

7. Buttons and Buttonholes ................................................................................................................................................. 69

Buttons ........................................................................................................................................................................ 69

Buttonholes .................................................................................................................................................................. 70

Buttonhole Position » Buttonhole Length • Buttonhole Interfacing »Two-Step Buttonholing «

Balancing the Buttonhole » Stitching a Series of Button.holes » Cutts.ng Button Opening »

Corded Buttonholes

8. Free-Arm Sewing ............................................................................................................................................................ 75

9. Performance Checklist................................................................................................................................................... 79

10. Caring for Your Machine................................................................................................................................................. 82

11. Sewing Aids ................................................................................................................................................................... 84

Index........................................................................................................................................................................................ 87

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1. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR MACHINE

____________

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t. Tension Discs

2. Take-up Lever

3. Pressure Dial

4. Presser-fooi Lifter

5. Thread Guides

6. Thread Cutter

7. Hinged Plate

8. Presser Foot

9. General Purpose

Needle Plate

Vi. Sobiwn Latch

12. Transparent Bobbin

13. Slide Plate

14. Needle Clamp

15. Tension Dial

16. Suilt-sn Sewing Light

17. Circuit Breaker

18. Hiectricai Conrjectionsi

and Speed Controller

19. I.ndividual Preference

2C. Reverse Stitch-balance Contra:

21. Stitch-length Cont-ol

22. Twin-needie Swlt«^

23. Stitch-width Control

24. Power and Light Switch

25. Hand Wheel

26. Stitch Selection Pa.nel

27. Friction-free Spoof Holder

28. Snap-in Thread Guidepost

29. Hear Tinread Guide

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accessories

The accessories provided with your Model

1200 sewing machine are designed to help

you do many kinds of sewing easily and per fectly. To increase the versatility of your

machine, additional accessories can be purchased at your Singer store.

1. Transparent Bobbins (No.181551)

2. Meedies

e Style 2020 for all-purpose sewing. e Style 2045 for sewing knits, stretch

fabrics and elastic.

e Style 2025 for twin-needle decorative

stitching.

тРОПТАНТ: Your SINGER sewing

machine has been designed to obtain

best results with SINGER* needles. You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle

package for correct style and size of nee dle for different types and weights of fabric.

3. General Purpose Foot and General Pur

pose Needle Platet are on your machine when delivered. Use them for alternating between straight and zig-zag stitching as well as utility zig-zag sewing. They can also be fabrics.

4. Straight-stitch Foot and Straight-stitch Needle Platet. Use these when your

fabric or sewing procedure requires close control.

These accessories, recommended for all straight-stitch sew'ing, are especially

helpful for edge stitching and collar pointing, or for stitching delicate or

spongy fabrics.

5. Seam Guide helps you keep seam

allowances perfectly even.

6. Special-purpose Foot. Use this for all

kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching.

used for straight-stitching firm

tNytnbers on plate indicate distance from needle in eighths of an inch.

Page 6

!N!C«£

8/'i ■; p ;i

r h

p" r*" V

1 ~~csi 2 & ; I

1 ,■’2 —ccd, — 28 ' —eg: i=3—

S2NGER

1 3

___ : 1 “

'N"****

......

7. Darning and Embroidery Foot is recom

mended for all types of free-motson work.

It is ideal for embroidery, monogramming

and decorative designs because the transparent toe fully reveals the line of the design to be followed.

8. Two-step Byttorshole Foot lets you stitch buttonholes of any length In two easy

steps.

9. Buttonhole Gauge has slots for marking

buttonhole guidelines.

10. Overedge Fool used with overedge

stretch stitch for seams In stretch fabrics.

11. Button Foot holds most buttons securely

for stitching.

12. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and

stitching corded seams.

13. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the general purpose foot to position the hem for blindstitch hemming.

Page 7

14. Feed Cover Plate for button sewLng and

free-motion work.

15. Chainstitch Fittings

a. Bobbin-case insert b. Chainstitch Piaiet

16. Detachable Spool Fin for decorative twln-needie stitching and two-thread topstitching.

17. Seam Ripper to pick and cut threads quickly and neatly without damage to the

fabric.

Lint Brysh for cleaning your sewing machine.

9. Small Spool Holder

a For use with small diameter tubes of

thread.

20. Large Spool Holder on your machine when delivered. For use with medium! and large spools of thread. ig

tNumbers on plate incicate Ussiance from nestiia in eighths of an inch.

¡20':

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ETTING READY TO S

The needles you use should be straight to en sure perfect stitch formation. The needle should also be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred' with large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without being bent or deflecied.

Remember too, that the eye of the needle

Regular Meedle

jl I

Vn’i

H A

Sail Point

Ye::ow 33r,d* Kee€\t

must be large enough for the thread to pass through freely: too fine a needle will cause the thread to fray. See Fabric, Thread and Needle Table, page 12.

For general-purpose sewing in a wide range of fabrics, the Style 2020 needle, in sizes 9

18, will give you excellent results.

¡i'

*■ V ”1....

Style 2025

ITwin-Needle

.......

For best results when sewing on knits, woven stretch fabrics, bonded vinyls, and elastic use

Style 2045 ball point Yellow Band* needle, available in sizes 11, 14, and 16.

For decorative stitching on light and medium-

weight woven fabrics, use the twin needle. Style 2025.

For sewing leathers, real and simulated, the Style 2032 needle, available for purchase at your Singer Sewing Center, is recommended.

Changing the Needle

® Raise needle to its highest point by turning

the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needleclamp screw, and remove the needle.

® Insert new needle up into clamp as far as it

will go. with the flat side of the needle to the back.

« Tighten needle-damp screv/.

Page 9

choosing and changing

accessories

CHANGIMG PRESSEH FEET Snap-on Presser Feet

Most of the presser feet furnished with your machine snap on and off a common shank,

e Raise needle and take-up lever to highest

position by turning the hand wheel toward

you.

» Raise presser foot.

1. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as

it will go) and then snap down to remove.

2. Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so that the shank fits over the presser-foot pin.

3. Press presser-foot screw down firmly until

foot snaps into place.

To remove and replace the shank of snap-on

presser feet, follow instructions below for

one-piece presser feet.

One-piece Presser Feet

CButton Foot and Zipper Foot)

• Raise needle and take-up lever to highest

position by turning the hand wheel toward

you.

« Raise presser foot.

e Loosen presser foot screv»^ (A) and remove

the foot, guiding it to the right.

Note: When changing one-piece presser feet, you should insert the edge of a coin in the slot of the presser foot screw to tighten presser foot securely.

To Replace One-piece Feet

® Hook one-piece foot around the presser bar

and tighten presser-foot screw.

Changing Snap-on Presser Feet

Changing One-piece Presser Foot

Page 10

Aítachins Darning and Embroidery Foot

Darning and Embroidery Foot

1. Raise needle and take-up lever to highest

position by turning hand vsrheel toward you.

2. Raise foot.

3. Loosen presser foot screw and remove

presser foot shank.

4. Guide darfiing and embroidery foot into position from back of machine. Make sure lifting finger (B) is above needle clamp.

5. Tighten presser foot screw with coin.

CMAmmuB i^eeole plates

Mote: Remove bobbin if it contains thread in order to prevent thread being caught when piate is replaced.

1. Raise needle and take-up lever to highest

position by turning the hand wheel toward

you.

2. Raise presser foot.

3. Open slide plate. Press down on front edge

of plate and lift up and out.

Attaching Cbalnstitch Fittings

4. Position new plate over pins and release. Plate is drawn into position by magnets.

See special Instructions below for attach

ing chainstitch plate.

5. Close slide plate.

Chainstitch Plate and Insert

1. Raise needle and take-up lever to highest

position and raise presser foot.

2. Open slide plate.

3. Move bobbin latch to left and remove bob bin and needle plate from machine.

4. Place bobbin-case Insert in bobbin case as

shown, with finger of insert positioned

under the feed.

5. Position chainstitch plate over holding

pins, making certain that the post of the bobbin-case insert finger enters the hole in the plate.

6. Close slide plate.

ATTACHIMC THE SEAÜ GUIDE

SieamLGMsde,,

Place screw in hole to the right of the slide piate; line up straight edge of guide with the needle plate guideline for desired seam width, and tighten screw.

Page 11

operating machine

CONNECTING mCHINE

® Push the machine piug into the machine

socket.

« Connect the power-Hne piug to your eiectn-

cai outiet

To turn on the machine and set speed range,

push the power and light switch to desired speed. This will also turn on the sewing light.

• The SLOW setting A (switch pressed in halfway) allows for maximum control. Use this setting for special jobs such as button sewing and buttonhole making, decorative patterns, bobbin winding, and where Intri cate details require close control,

• The FAST setting B (switch pressed In all the way) allows for full speed capacity of the

machine. It is best for long, straight seams,

easy-to-handle fabrics, and general sewing where a variety of speeds are needed.

s0ower and Li^ht Switch

...............

CAUTION: We recommend that you turn off

the power and light switch before changing neadies, presser feet or plates ana when leav ing the machine unattended. This eliminates the

possibility of starting the machine by acciden-

tafiy pressing the speed controller.

To run the ríiachine, press the foot or knee

speed controller. The harder you press, the

faster the machine wili sew within the

selected speed range. The lighter you press,

the slower the machine will sew within the

selected speed range.

Vach'ne Soco:

Power-

Line

Page 12

There are thousands of fabrics around the world; each manufactured with a specific fiber and weight. The fabrics below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of what is available for purchase.

TYPE à

Ill.li

.......

|#o|énÌ"

...

rìLKY W4*M ^ yCSHT

I®

phi ten 1"' ITuii 1

iteti"

Lace Ninon

Crepe deChine tesn|ung| 1

fTilllilil

Jersey

,.:sTite|ai

PtenT

i;'Qire''r|r|:'li||'-|'^

Polli ..

..........

If;

"ipibiilt:

pati

Ciallls

...

VERY

y.EDTJsi

HEA\-Y

HEAVY

iteilet 1'"

iCribedechinei?i!i ¡Shintuig 1

|tel|ei 1'

;.||Taielas|::

pirolteiltt ;|r::

iijlTafflsia

........

........................

?l|Crepe?fi||f:i

itesfeteih 1

Cbriuroy

■"titenipi.........t||ii

Denim

l"|d|bii^

...........

L|wnp''

:;:0erealei;v::||s.:::~:3Ì

Eyelet Gingham Ribuli

Pishmereiff'1'-^

ifiannil....ii

“yohair''' I"''

..............

dfepi'"'

t Usyaiiy contain some synthetic fiisers also.

■■ICahyasfii:i'i|^

|; Spie l dp " I

Upholstery:,

ITerly ¡t

Drapery Fabric

i ■ ;Fab|d^ |

■::s:::i8:Urlap::i:::||i<y

ptri tchlteldur b ft

stretch Terry t

SUitiig

y|pia|neli|.yyiysls,.

Ipaterdine | ■ ■

-IReliiSy-sh'i?^^

..lW®:id

1'■

iPoplhi'i"'1

Slanketlng

iSepe 1

"i|yo|alrt|"'r~”i||t tperfey'l|iJ''1|iJ'J

Page 13

FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE (coni.

FIBER

iSYNTHETIC '|Vliveh| ■ ^

SYNTHETIC SLENDS

FILMY SHEER

CHsffoo

'Èssili,,: !Il:

Olgahza Talle

Mmon ,„ Crepé deChiae

Voile

UGHI

iCrééeY:i:..i: :i :..

1.BiHilliiiii

iiVelyet ..: ::vei®i::i „.Tafteta i::::::: j:: fiSatin

jglallela,,;

I'isain ::: .

...............

ilJacdoard |

Single Knil

jiswiater Khi|:i:::i,

Í::

.Bonded Knit

;Trlodtti|'"'t?

:;Cir4

^iTridbt 3

. iCíréíchiTerry |Slreich:;yeloor

iFaKeFuirs

ILinln 7§pq W}

Batiste

Eyelet

„.poplin ,l„ iCordurdy ibraperylFabhic

Gingham

Poplin *

Crepé

Gadardlsne i:

Double Knii Bonded Knit

Spandey

Deep Pile

Gabardine

HEAVY

Double Knit

::iHi¡enoá:

:||aK|:Fu|s Í5

:::i|Denim i

pabprdipe

HEAVY

...

CKnl)

%EmmB

PLASTIC

vinyls:

Plasió rim

Single kiit " 1 Terry Knit

iKidskin

Patent

iPaiInt I

Jmltatioh-

Chamois Leathers &

Irnitaiioii-

iSuedes

.......

Leathers & ■Leather

Suedes teatiar :|

Suede

iBeptile '

Suedei:i|i-!t;i

Plastic Film S

Bonded Vinyl |Knit Back! :|

^IliBateht 1,

Embdssdd:, Printed 3

DoubleKnIt

Buckskin

palfskin::,

Suede

Beptile .......

Upholstery i Vinyl

....

lipHolstes^y

Leal he rs;

Upholstery

,;i,. vilyl.,,..:::,,,.

Page 14

FABRIC, THREAD AMD UEEDIM TABLE

Choosing the correct needie and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct choice wiii make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight Ta

ble on the previous page: and the Fabric. Thread and Needle Table below are practical guides to needie and thread selection. Refer to them before starting a sewing project. Se sure to use the

same size and type of thread in both needie and bobbin. To select the correct needle and thread for your fabric, first refer to the Fabric Weight Table to

determine the weight and type of the material you are using.

Next refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needie Table.

TYFE

FABRIC

t|iiiiiiiii|ii

.........

t|i::l|^:C|ys

.....

SYNTHETIC

SiEiidsf

........

1 Fine Silk

f||

iiiPihpiiM|tde|zedii I..||dS|3f9i|iit

i:|;lih^;Siiiikss..

Fine Mercerized

Fine Mercepzeá

tp||5|pd|piii

|iii■

j;pi" IpF! riiCiSintih i

...iiilitill''

NEEDLES

..................

|2d:2|nS|

...

SHEER

LIOHT

THREAD NEEDLES THREAD

fiheiSilki

iipeiipdr|erli|ediil;

IPeÉílkl

....

Fine Mercsr;zed ;

Til.2|2b|TlT|

r.."|02ü|Í'^f

Finé Silk ii

:^::Fi||ejS|k..

Fi|é Mérc|rizid

.....

TlhiiCbtpi:''”it

ij,:.,.

......

lIsÉglll

Fine Sii.k F ne Mercerized i

iigiiniSiSynlhetlc i:...,:2|:20|3;::|| I í|i||éiiS|n:thetlc:|Híií>^^

li;l|2Í20:||iid^ti|

Mecij-^ Mercerized

Fi|eS|k I;

1 :Pi;|e‘pifcirizdpi'l^

tiFt|é'%ihthiptld||tlt'”

\EED_ES

Í02Í-íl|r

::::f|Q:2|Ui5s|:

ti!|p||U|i|p

LEATHER

PLASTIC:

Size 9 needie is recommended for severing oniy. For bobbin winding, use iarger size needie

Yeciurr, Synmetic 2C32-'

Fine Mercerized Fine Syntheuc

Pipe Mercerized

Filpii|hthitlclTi

2C2C

Page 15

Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left. (Silk, rayon, etc.) Then locate the

fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from Type of

Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle choice

for your fabric will be found.

Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column. Read

across to Medium (weight) column arid you will see that a medium silk or mercerized thread artd a size 2020-14 needle are to be used.

VERY HEAVY

rmmAU NEEDLES

Medium Silk | Mec&m: lierderizidI

Med ium By iedlum :§ercehz|d j

Med^l|rn=ldl!dh'‘'Medium Mercehzec

Mediumj^iik™

Medru-m Mercerized

i§ddi|m::Syhlplfdi.ih'i

fl edid m iy hifetidl t'

Medium Mercerized

Medfcm Svnthetidiiiii..

.....

k 2020-11 1

202Z-U

2045-t4

2045-14

d:2m2-|4 1

THREAD

|lepy§|k ,,,, Heavy Mercerized

,ipeaiyiS|nthitid;ii

Heavy Mercerized

...gea|yl|:|ftdif''

...

Heavy Mercerized

r'ttiiieaiyiSfhthi*id;ti

Sinihet id' 1

Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic

NEEDLES

1 2020-14

1 2020l4"l

1 2|20-i::6;i|i

2020-16

|i ,2i45ii6i(|':

..................

,, 2D32J.6 1,..

THREAD

Heavy Silk

!|:;pieai|ysSynthetic

H |H ealy Mercirlzel

ttipeayy''0ctldi'‘i’^^

p|pe#yi5||drcerize|;»....

Heavy Mercerized 2020-16

|iped|yiSyh|h|l

;(.2|20y|eid|

If liibppo

Heavy Mercerized

Mdayy Synthetic,;;

MEEDIES

2020-14

|2D|S-:1|«S

iilSIg-lS !

...

..............

Medium Mercerized

................................ if

Meclum Mercerized

Medlim ¿yhlietldi ''

2D20-t 1

'''2$blni"l|

Medium Mercerized :

: iOpediimiSf bi|d|id

Medium Me-'cenzed i Medium Sy.ntnetic "

...2|20|it4ii||

...

............

................

”■ ;peiyy'li:erc|f 1^^ if

...

iilipielfiSynlpidil^

Heavy MercIriZidli..

'’1

" ilN

If""'

.....

O’^ ■* ib

............

(

Page 16

• Place spool of thread on horizontal spool pin

{A). If spool being used has a thread retain ing silt, this should be placed against the spool cushion to the right,

» Select correct spool holder according to

type and diameter of spool being used. The diameter of the end of the spool holder should always be larger than that of the spool itself.

® Press spool holder firmly against spool.

i‘R|isi[fhih^

''' ■ ^<0.:

Step I

........

...... .

.....

you.

* Raise the presser foot.

1. Snap thread into thread guide post.

"\1

2. Thread the rear thread guide. Pas|i

threac under flange then over to the far

llll'righiiphliPi^

Page 17

Step 3

v\i

\ ■

, I, Stip; ^ 5| J

3. Draw thread firmly into tension disc on

I ri|Nt |f tsnsibri ie|Jirat|r;^ I

4. Draw thread down right ohannei and up

"W....................................................

,:i|:,,,td|::bai:i^sd Ie|b:h iidlliCbilPdl:^

......

^1:,:: :>

Bring thread through slit by pulling it

:|:|ridpaibtyi|!a:^

6. Follow thread back down through left channel and then diagonally toward

lr|

....

Iipi|

..........

g|iiii;1|fPi|d-B|^

...

..................

ili|

diagonal thread channel, guide thread to

Step 6:;

;ir :7iei|driw f IreiSit

Drawing 4 inches (10cm) of thread down

ri|is|pwpi|let|eeileiiopers^

I thread needle front to back.

Page 18

Step

Step 1

Step 3

lMÉ¡M

wmmuQ THE bobbiu

You wiH find a bobbin in place under the slide

piate of your machine. (To open shoe piafe,

simpiy draw it gerttiy toward you.) if the bob bin runs out of thread during sewing, you can

rewind it without removing it from the machine. The window in the slide piate iels

you see bobbin-thread supply at a glance, to

help avoid running out of thread in the middie

of a seam.

Preparation Steps

® Raise the needie and iake-uo lever to high

est position by turning the hand wheel

toward you.

® Raise the presssr foot to release tension

discs.

® Open slide piate and make sure bobbin is

empty. For removal of bobbin and thread,

see page 17.

1. Rotate group selector dial to right until blindstitch symbol ^ appears in the yellow field above pattern selector button,

2. Activate blindstitch ^ by pressing button

under the graphic on stitch panel.

3. Then press pattern repeat symbol 0 to stop needie from its up and down motion. This Will ensure a smooth flow of thread from the thread spool to the bobbin.

Detailed information on seiecting stitches is found on page 20.

;í:,íS

Winding Steps

1. ypve bobbin latch A to extreme right (wind

position).

2. Draw needie thread back between toes of

presser foot, under left side of prssser foot

then up, into and around thread retainer. Start machine, running it at a moderate

speed.

3. Puli thread end away alter it has separated from bobbin.

« Watch the bobbin as it fliis. Do not allow

thread to wind beyond the outside FULL ring B.

4. Close slide piate to release bobbin latch to sewing position.

Page 19

To start sewmg, puli thread back under

presser foot and cut. Place threads diagonally under foot to left side, position needle In

fabric where desired, lower presser foot and

start machine.

CHAIIGIMQ THE BOBBIH Remo¥ing tlie BoiJbin

Raise media and take-up lever to its highest

position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

1. Open slide plate; move bobbin iatcn to left.

J^erngving;: Sobbin;:

2. Remove bobbin by Inserting finger

mder

rim of bobbin.

Replacing an Emptf Bobbin

1. Slip bobbin (thread slot on top) Into bobbin

case.

2. Move bobbin latch to extreme right (wind

position).

® Leave slide plate open until you have

finished winding the bobbin.

Removing Tbread from Bobbin

You can leave the bobbin in plaoe while

removing thread. With slide plate closed, pull

thread end through the plate with a steady

motion. Do not pull the thread across the feed

as this may damage It.

Thread Slot

Bepisacing EmptytSdfebifs

Page 20

Hepiacing a Wound Bobbin

Raise needie and take-up iever to its highest

position by turning hand wheel toward you.

A. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch to left.

B. Draw about an inch (2.5cm) of thread from

bobbin and insert bobbin in case. Move bobbin latch slightly to the right (sewing

position).

■Replacing aiWoéml Bobbin

C. Puli thread into bobbin-case slot (1), draw

it under flat spring and around to and past point (2) leaving three inches (7cm) of free thread.

D. Close slide plate. Closing slide plate

makes raising bobbin thread easier because this step prevents the thread from coming out of the threading points.

Flat Spring:

Draw Thread ■ i^roind fas t|Po I |t (iil

Page 21

hand and turn hand wheel slowly

toward you so the needle enters plate.

2. Continue turning hand wheel and hold*

'r||fih|rhdid:ii'''"

■ ¡rani bing'p

3. open the loop with your fingers, draw

■' rt|nd|iie|ini''idibi|XP

proximately 4 inches |lOcm), under

■ ¡the: piesier |fodl 'aihd |pldde |tlie:m

■■■rifidiii®

'#SSS6;is!!;i

Page 22

select

i urn macnme on.

(You win note a slight movement of needle

each time power switch is activated) Rotate group selector dial to the right or left,

to choose one of four different pattern groups whloh will contain the particular paitern you wish to sew.

After rotating group selector dial, press button under the desired pattern. A red light will ap

pear above seleoted pattern.

I О

0 О О О

- > ■ > 'Ч -tN А. у J 0^ if; 1 Si U? ^

^^^----------------------------------------------^|5

■Srcc?

sr ,,,

■>

• ^-Tl -••'si • ••••-•

•4-. 2

N Ч

■Щ

'mZ

Stitch width and length are automatically pro grammed, but can be changed for individual

preferences or fabric requirements, as de

scribed on page 22. Follow same procedure for stitch selection to

automatically switch to another pattern.

Mote; We recommend use of the SLOW

speed setting when sewing buttonholes, bast

ing stitch, decorative patterns, or maxi

stretch stitch.

____________________

-------

0|шр)2

Flair; Zig-Zag

p uli-Stiic'h Zlg-iag |

iplptsidtllliiiii

Blind Stitch

tSastir.g Stitch

ffRexi-Stitch Patterns

tttVtaxi-Sirstch Stitch

;

Group 1

Group 3

ttf

IItOybred^e itreph' l| ■ ■

stllhiEdithliih

11 Hdheypdmb"

Greek Key

i. 1. Lelt aid R|^ht|iidgL,|,,,

iff'

, tt

J QfbupiS I ; Ifidfer'i'

Scallop

1 ■ ■ ;iead|r :

ill: ArrovlKead ^" 1

Group 4

II Grduplp :il

lir..Zic-Zid'Fpnt:'

|||||li|)|l!iil|i|j|^

II ilOdaf Jillll 1

Page 23

РАттЕшы шРЕт вттоп

Single Unit Sewing

The pattern repeat button 0 on your machine lets you sew one unit of a pattern. For exam ple; one arrowhead, one dog.

Procedure

Select desired pattern (such as arrowhead

shown here). Press pattern repeat button 0.

Red light will appear above symbol. Press down on controHer,

Machine will stitch one unit of the pattern

each time you follow this procedure. You can also use pattern repeat button to

stitch a series of identical buttonholes, as de scribed on page 73; and to aid in bobbin wind ing as described on page 16.

INDIVlOyAL PREFEBEHCES

Your sewing machine will produce most of your stitching requirements at a preprogram

med stitch width and stitch length.

Stitch Width Light

Stitch Length Light

Pattern Repeat Button

\ I / ‘Sect Ligh

+ ®

V ^

To accom.m,odaie different fabric charac teristics or satisfy a personai preference, you can change the settings by opening the cover of the individual preference panel and then manually adjust the controls located on the panel as described on page 22.

liiiili'

Arrowhead

Stitch-width Control

Individual Preference Controls

ё i V i did a 3 P relerehde Ria ne i

Bi Cover

Page 24

STITCH WIDTH

Stitch Width Ughi

Stitch Length Light

® Select desired pattern. « Open cover of individual preference panel.

Lightly touch stitch width pointer to activate stitch width control, indicated by a red light on sts

r* H

panel.

« Turn pointer siowiy and sew until desired

width is obtained.

Machine will now stitch at preferred width.

STITCH LEMGTH

® Select desired pattern. «- Lightly touch the stitch length pointer with

your finger to activate the stitch length con trol, Indicated by a red light on stitch panel.

o Turn pointer slowly and sew until desired

length is obtained.

Machine will now stitch at the preferred length.

Mote: Both stitch width and stitch length con trols may be used simultaneously.

® To cancel, press any button except those for

reverse or pattern repeat sewing.

Page 25

Choosing the correct stitch length is of utmost importance, i he correct choice will make the differer^ce in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The table below is a practical guide to stitch length selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Remember to make a test

sample on a scrap piece of the fabric you will be using.

STITCH LENGTH GUIDANCE TABLE

PART OF

ARTICLE OR

GARMENT

i'sSiBAlOlli

......

CURVED MAIMSEAMSf"

FILMY

2|| ‘

SHEER

ifGty

Eif

WEIGHT OF FABRICS

LIGHT

MEDIUM

E''f.:s;;|2|||

f0m§2

Ifsp

...

ill

...

... ...

4 " ;

i||2-;;2tB;|:E:. 2.5

HEAVY

VERY HEAVY

2.5

j2;i2tSii;l

|?2!|2t5:li'i

S|2^i|;|.S|i

||:2t4i2t5||||:

lii

4 ■:

........

::i

TOPSTITCHIMG'^

STRESS AREAS

..........................J:.:,

:#tsi2l|lt

|pSit2i|ii

1.5-2"

1.5-2?^

■f Slow to iooderats speed.

Stress Areas In Knit or Stretch Fabrics Contrary to common belief it is not always necessary to use a S-t-r-e-t-c-h stitch on all seams in

garments made from these fabrics. Always consider the “Stress” areas, for example; arm,holes, crotch seams, also now much the garment 'will be required to “give” and where. Use a stretch stitch where needed. Moreover, always ascertain that the fit of the garment is correct before sewing any seam v/ith a S-t-r-e-t-c-h stitch. Ripping out a S-t-r-e-t-c-h stitch is difficult and may damage fabric. See page 46 for sewing on stretch fabrics.

Page 26

B«ve?se StItCih- Balat?ce Centres!

■A

ttSSipif'

REVERSE STfTCH-BALAI^CE

To change the appearance of a Rexi-Stitch

pattern or buttonholes, adjust the reverse

stitch-balance control.

Before moving the pointer from its neutral position, make a test sample.

If adjustment is required, stitch slowly and move the reverse stitch-balance pointer in either direction as you sew, until desired pat tern appearance is obtained.

For information on balancing a buttonhole see page 73.

Return pointer to neutral position {A) after sewing Flexi-Stitch patterns and buttonholes.

Fiexi-Stitches illustrated on page 20.

4 i

J !

■3 ! i ! i S

.5 i

3 I

i s

s s

5 i 5 S

i i

3 s

4 I

:s s

i i s i

i s ;,iS sr r .. $

1 s

i s

ML ^

TWm-HEEQLE SWITCH

Always move twin-needle switch, located on

individual preference panel, to the right (|| )

symbol before doing twin-needle sewing. Caution: Unless switch has been activated,

needle breakage can result.

When you have completed twin-needle sew ing, be sure to return switch to the left ( f )

position. See page 68 lor twin-needle sewing.

Remember: If, when adjusting a control, you accidentally touch another control: re-select desired pattern, then readjust desired control.

Close individual preference panel cover when you have attained desired stitch appearance.

Page 27

.li

For straight stitching, ^ press button under straight stitch symbol {i) on stitch panel.

A red light will appear above symbol to indi cate that machine is ready to produce a basic straight stitch.

Straight-stitch needle plate and foot are best for all straight stitching. Use these accesso ries when fabric requires close control. They are especiaily

telpful for stitching delicate

fabrics. If you use the straight-stlich foot with a nee

dle plate other than the straight-stitch needle

plate, be sure to set the rmchine for straight

stitching to prevent possible needle breakage.

Note however, that when you use the straight-

stitch needle plate, you get this exclusive

feature: If you press another buiton by

mistake, your machine will still sew a straight stitch.

Always change back to the appropriate nee dle plate and presser foot when sewing other

than straight stitching.

SEWIMQ 11^ HEVEBSE

If you wish to reinforce the beginning or end of a seam, press and hold the reverse stitch button.

Machine will only sew a straight stitch in reverse for as long as you hold the button, regardless of the stitch pattern you have been sewing.

1 O O

Reverse Stitch '

StraightiStitih bight ;

o o

® I I S I § I^ - j I^ I

1 g|N 1^. I sil< 1 J i

■!Ì|ÌÌi|||:StÌC|#

Page 28

M«e<Sie-Thread Tension

I^EEOLE-THliEAO TEMSIOf^

Havmg selected the correct needle and thread combination for the fabric being used, it may be necessary to adjust the tension of the sewing maohine to ensure a well balanoed stitch. A well balanced stitch is when the top and under thread appear the same on the fabric.

Your new machine has an adlustable tension control system. This control exerts tension on the top and under thread as they pass through the machine to form a stitch.

« Too much tension will produce a tight stitch

which will cause puckered seams.

o Too little tension will produce a loose stitch. When an even amount of tension is exerted on

both threads, a smooth even stitch known as a balanced stitch, is produced.

To help understand the effect of tension on fabric and thread, try this simple test:

® Take two pieces of a medium weight woven

fabric in a solid light color about six inches

long.

o Place a 2020 size 14 needle in the machine. « Thread the top of your machine with a

polyester or mercerized dark color thread

and use a lighter color thread of the same fiber and size in the bobbin.

o Select a medium stitch length.

Seam the two pieces of fabric together start

ing with the top tension control at “0”. Then

as you sew, slowly turn the tension control from “0” through to its highest setting.

6 Sew another row turning the dial back to

“0”, You should have a balanced stitch on each row mid-way between the start and finish in each case.

«The different colored threads will help you

to see the effect that the tension has on the top and bottom threads.

Now that you have observed the effects of tension, we suggest that you perform a similar test on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use. being sure to duplicate the number of thicknesses of your garment.

Page 29

' O'

/г

Pin basting is a time saver and can be used when you sew easy-to-handle fabrics. Use

fine pins and place them so that:

• They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching line.

• They do not extend under both sides of the presser foot. Never place pins on the under

side of the fabric in contact with the feed.

SPEED BASTIUO

The basting stitch produces temporary long stitches in a variety of lengths. This allows you to choose the correct length for your sew

ing job, considering the weight of your fabric and how securely the pieces need to be held together. A few of the many sewing jobs for which you will find speed basting particularly

useful are;

at the Stitching Line

Pin Placement

e Joining seams for trial fittings

• Marking construction guidelines c Basting pleats, hems and seams

® Stitch: speed basting j e. Length: to suit fabric ® General purpose plate e General purpose foot

Mote: The even feed foot cannot be used for speed basting.

Select needle and thread according to your

fabric. A fine needle and a soft pliable thread are recommended when basting stitches are

not to be removed before pressing, as in the case of pleats or hems. Choose a thread color to contrast with your fabric so that it can be seen easily.

Stitch

■<v.c:h

stitch Length

Page 30

Pfocedyre

Thread the machine in the usual way.

1. Set machine for basting at a short stitch length, and take a few stitches to position and secure basting start.

2. Adjust to the length of basting stitch desired — stitches approximately 1 inch

(2.5cm) long are recommended for seam

basting — and proceed. Stitch slowly, sup

porting the fabric in front and back of the

presser foot if stitches are more than 112- inch (1.3cm) long.

Caution: Do not puli the fabric while you are stiiChmg as this may deflect the needle, caus ing It to break.

3. Take a few short stitches to secure end of

basting.

Stitch Length

The stitch length control dial on the personal

preference panel (see page 22) regulates the length of basting stitches. Because the Inter

val at which the needle enters the fabric is

changed when you machine baste, the length

of the stitch is no longer the same as for regu

lar stitching.

Ecstir.g a Saarr:

Very short stitches are recommended to fasten stitching starts and endings.

For Longer

Basting Stitches

bread Tension

Speed basting requires a light needle-thread tension. When tension is correctly adjusted, stitches up to 1 inch (2.5cm) long should lie. flat In firm fabrics. If stitches are longer than 1 inch, place tension on the fabric by holding it lightly in front and back of the presser foot as you sew. to prevent pucker.

See page 26 for further information on nee dle-thread tension.

Page 31

pmpmmon

«> Stitch: straight t

• Length: to Suit fabric « Straight stitch needie piateor

genera: purpose piate

■9 Straight stitch foot or generai purpose foot

Thread nnachine in the usual way.

PLACE FABRIC UMPEB FOOT

Most fabrics can be piacec under the foot by raising the presser foot lifter (A) to its normal up position (1), where It locks. When using bulky fabric, multiple fabric layers, or an embroidery hoop, raise the presser foot lifter to the high rise position (2), thus increasing the space between foot and needle plate. Hold presser foot lifter In position while plac

ing fabric under the presser foot.

• Lower presser foot lifter all the way down and start to sew.

.....

.......

SEWmO WITH A MEWLY WOUUB

BOBBIU

When starting to stitch at the fabric edge:

• Position needle in very edge of fabric, by turning the hand wheel toward you.

® Lower the presser foot and stitch. Thread

will lock over fabric edge.

When starting to stitch away from fabric edge; ® Leave presserfoot in its upper position. « Pull thread back under presser foot and cut. « Position needie in from fabric edge, then

lower the presser foot and stitch.

Page 32

„it|C5|si|g yfo§ ■

|!:i«iswi

........

^ ^uislelifses

«0§m

------

. . —5/c" ;■: .6c~.

—u—(1,9cm)

^Crossisne

i|i||;i;i;i|: ,: i.^ i:;:;;;

lltt

Pivoting at Comer

3/S" C9:nm)

lEPiMCS SEmS STRAICsH"

To keep the seam straight, use one of the

numbered guideNnes on the plate. The num bers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch,

from the needle, if you want a 5/S-lnch

(1,6cm) seam, for example, line up your fabric

with the number 5 guideline. Note that both

number 5 guidelines (the most commonly used) are extended on the slide plate for your oonvenience; the crosslines serve as guides when stitching a square corner.

For extra help In keeping the seam straight, you may wish to use the seam guide. Because it allows you to guide stitches evenly between

1/8-inch (Smm) and 1-1/4 inches (3cm) from the fabric edge, it is particularly useful for very narrow or very ’wide seams.

To insert seam guide on machine see page 8.

TyRriiMG SQUARE CORNERS

To turn a square corner 5/8~lnch (1.6cm) from the fabric edge, you need not measure or

mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the slide plate.

♦ Line up your fabric with right or left

guideline 5 on the plate. Stitch seam, slow

ing speed as you approach corner.

Fabric after Turning

♦ Stop stitching, with the needle down, when

the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the

cornering crosslines on the slide plate.

♦ Raise presser foot slightly end turn fabric on

needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.

® Lower the presser foot and stitch in new

direction.

Page 33

1. For example. If the stitch length control on your machine is set on 2 the machine will sew approximately 12 stitches to the inch for straight seams. Adjust the control bet ween 1 .S to 2 or 15 to 20 stitches per inch to stitch curved seams in the same fabric.

2. if you use the seam guide, attach it at an angle so that the edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide.

IMF

EMU

1. Stitch to the edge of the fabric. (Do not sew beyond edge of fabric)

2. Press reverse stitch button and hold in

place. Backstitch approximately 1/2-inch (1 -3cm) to reinforce end of seam. Release reverse stitch button.

3. Raise needle to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you and raise

presser foot. Remove the fabric by drawing it to the back and left.

4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of

presser bar.

iiig

r V

l^everse Stitching

Stitching a Curved Seam

Page 34

applications

DARNING

Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes,

knits, and household linens can be darned

effortlessly and quickly with little practice. You may choose to darn either with or without acoessories. When greater control is needed,

use the accessories.

With Accessoriest

6 Stitch; straight stitch i

• Stitch length: 0 6 Cover plate ® Darning and embroidery foot

1. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned and center worn section in embroidery

hoop.

2. Select straight stitch.

3. Position work in hoop and place hoop

under foot, then lower the presser bar to

engage tension.

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand,

turn hand wheel to'ward you, and draw bob bin thread up through fabric. Hold both

thread ends and lower needle into fabric. Snip off after a few stitches.

5. Outline area to be darned with running

stitches for reinforcement as illustrated.

6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop back and forth underfoot. Keep lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length.

7. When opening is filled, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.

Darning with Embroidery Hoop

tFor best resuiis, hinged piste shcuic be up v.'hen darning with embroidery hoop.

Page 35

BAUmUQ

Wiilloyt Accessories

9 Stitch: straight stitch i

® Stitch iength: between 1 and 1.5 « Generai purpose needle plats » Special purpose foot « Pressure setting; (darn)^

1. Select straight stitch.

2. if area to be darned is open, baste an un derlay in place.

3. Place area to be darned under presser foot; lower presser foot and start stitching, alternately drawing fabric toward you and pulling It gently away from you.

A. Continue this forward and backward mo

tion as you fill the area with parallel lines of stitching. For additional strength, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.

Dammg Without Accessories

HESITATION EMBROiOERY

Hesitation embroidery is free-motlon embroidery using speed basting. The time lapse that occurs between needle penetra tions permits unhurried hoop movement (ap preciated by the beginner), it also permits unusually long stitches, as well as short ones for unique decorative effects.

e Stitch; basting stitch | o Stitch iength: 0 « Cover plate « Darning and embroidery foot « Speed range: SLOW

1. Trace or transfer design outline to fabric and center in embroidery hoop. Designs and motifs with shaggy outlines and tex tured surfaces are usually best.

2. Select speed basting.

3. Position hoop under needle, lower presser

bar, and raise bobbin thread.

4. Move hoop back and forth, filling design with long and short stitches as in regular free-moilon embroidery, as described on page 45.

Page 36

Quilting is the art of stitching two or more thicknesses of fabric together in a planned design. A padding is stitched to the underside of the fabric to produce a soft, puffed effect that is becoming to some wearing apparel and to many fabric furnishings.

«Stitch: straight stitch ]

o Stitch length: to suit fabric, design,

and effect desired

» General purpose needle plate

® Straight-stitch foot

>te: For best results use the quilting foot

available for separate purchase at your local Singer store.

Preparing the Fabric

Baste a light padding of cotton fiannsl, syn thetic quilt batting (split), sheet wadding, ora lightweight wool interlining to the underside of the fabric. When using sheet wadding, first back it with voile, batiste, or net to preserve

the sheet wadding through ’wear. Baste the

layers of fabric together on the lengthwise

and crosswise grains.

Basic Procedyre

1. Select straight stitch.

2. Draw both threads under the foot and

diagonally across feed to left.

3. Position the needle, lovj&r the foot and

start stitching.

Mote: If you are quilting a very large piece,

work from the center of the fabric to the edges. Guide the fabric with both hands.

If the fabric has a floral or scroll design, the pattern in the fabric can be your quilting

design. Stitch it from the top side.

Page 37

cmmsTiTcmuQ

Single-thread chainstitching looks like regu lar straight stitching on top but is a series of interlocking loops on the underside of the

fabric. The stitches are produced by the nee

dle thread alone so you do not need a bobbin thread or a bobbin. Because the stitches are

formed by a single thread, the interlocked

loops ravel easily, allowing the entire line of stitching to be removed with just a pul! on the thread end.

Here are a few of the many sewing jobs for which you will find chainstitching useful.

Prefsafsng Machine

* Threedins Take-up Eyelet

lii

:iil

5kr-5i 3: S;::: !; if 5^54 '

^ ^' Ul Y ilu n ^

Hi 'a? yp.i i 11 iU ii ili

® Sewing temporary hems and tucks to extend

the life of children’s clothes, and curtains and linings that might shrink.

6 Hemming curtains and draperies that may

need to be altered.

e Attaching woven and stretch hem tape. e Making stay chains (French tacks) to

anchor linings.

« Basting for trial fittings.

Preparation

» Select needle and thread according to your

fabric. (See Fabric, Thread and Needle Chart on page 12.) Thread the machine in the usual way except for the take-up lever.

For chainstitching, pass the thread through the triangular eyelet as shown.

1. Raise take-up lever to its highest position

and raise presser foot. Open slide plate.

2. Move bobbin latch to left and remove bob bin and plate.

Post

Finger

0 I G

/r\.

Insert

rki

Adjusting Tension

To find the correct tension setting for

chainstitching, set the tension dial on 3 and make a test sample in your fabric. If the loops in the chain on the underside of the fabric are

loose and irregular in size, increase tension. When the tension is correctly adjusted, the chain will be flat and smooth and the fabric

unpuckered. ® To increase tension, turn dial to a higher

number.

* To decrease tension, turn dial to a lower

number.

3. Place bobbin-case insert in bobbin case as

shown, with finger of insert positioned under

the feed.

4. Position chainstitch plate over holding pins, making certain that the post of the bobbin-case insert finger enters the hole in the plate. Close slide plate.

Page 38

Releaslsig liie Chain from Machine

SEWmQ A CHMUSTITCH SEAM

9 Stitch: straight stitch ! ® Stitch length: 2.5-3 « Soboin case insert o Chainstitch needle plate ® Straight stitch foot

Starting and Chaining Off

1. Turn hand wheei toward you to position needle in very edge of fabric. Lower the presser foot.

2. Start the machine, and stitch to end of seam. Continue stitchi.ng beyond edge of fabric, making a chain from one to two in ches long (2.5 to 5cm). Do not attempt to

stitch in reverse. Chalnstitching can be

sewn in a forward direction only.

3. Cut chain between fabric and presser foot.

4. After chaining off. start a new line of stitch

ing by raising the presser foot slightly and positioning the fabric in front of needle. Lower presser foot and stitch to end of

seam.

' V

^ it

' ' V '

f , -A

Beleasiog the Chain from the Machine

When you finish chainstitching, the chain can easily be removed from the machine.

1. Raise presser foot.

2. Hold end of chain with your left hand.

3. Turn hand wheel slowly toward you with your right hand until needle is ail the way down in the needle hole.

4. Then turn hand w'heel slowly away from you. pulling gently on chain, which will

unravel as needle rises.

Mote: This is the only time you should ever

turn hand wheel away from you.

Page 39

Removing Stitching from fabric

Chainstitching can be removeci smoothly and cleanly in seconds by freeing the last stitch formed in the fabric.

1. Simply cut the last loop formed on the un derside of the fabric.

2. Pick up the free thread end from the top of

the fabric.

3. Pull the free thread end, rem.oving entire

line of stitching.

Removing the Chainstitch Accessories

« Raise take-up lever to its highest position

and raise presser foot.

« Open slide plate and remove the cnainsiitch

plate.

» Move bobbin latch to left and lift out the bob

bin-case insert.

« Replace zig-zag or straight stitch plate and

bobbin (see pages 8 and 17). Close slide

plate.

Hemoving the Stitching

o Unthread chainstltch eyelet in take-up lever

and reihread for regular sewing.

I i r? t i I ;

o o\

t., U “

^ ''

r."... Xt

}

...

Removing Chainstltch Plate

Page 40

V ' Y f ****•, ^

»1

■

iiliiiiii

li■iЯi■iИi■i

11в1Ш1Ш1М1Ш®

CHAINSTITCH APPLICATIONS

Here are several ways in which you will fine chainstitching quicker than either regular straight stitching or hand basting.

Garment Fitting

Time and energy can be saved when chainstitching is used to baste garment sec tions or muslin shells for trial fittings. The firm.ness of the stitch ensures accuracy in fit ting. yet the stitching can be ripped out in sec onds if adjustments are necessary.

Constryctioii Gyidelioes

in many instances, construction guidelines for pockets, buttonholes, and other details can be advantageously marked with chainstitch Pasting. The stitching will give a clearly defined line marking. Yet, unlike chalk or pins, it will not rub off or become lost as the fabric is handled. This method lends itself particularly to use on wools and other fabrics that do not retain the penetration ma.i-ks of the needle.

stay Stitcliing

'"y-»

Chainstitching can be used to stay-stitch

neckhnes, shoulderlines, and waistlines before gar.meni assembly. Flexible, yet firm,

this stitching will hold the original shape of these areas and prevent stretching.

Page 41

Slipcover Welting — Tubylar Trimming

Chainstitching has an affinity for fabrics cut on the bias. The loop formation of the chainstitch is a natural lor corded welting and tubular trimming where a certain amount of elasticity is needed to prevent stitchses from “cracking”.

Beit Carriers and Stay Cbalos

Stay chains (sometimes called French tacks) and belt loops, normally time-consuming

hand-worked detail finishes, can now be quickly made by machine. To produce a chain, place the first stitch in the fabric. Stitch off fabric and continue stitching until a suffi cient length of chain is produced. Thread chain through emibroidery or darning needle and tack to garment or lining. A stitch length setting of 12 is recommended.

Growlb and Shrinkage Tucks

Tucks are frequently put into curtains, linings,

and children’s clothes to allow for fabric shrinkage and child’s growth. “Letting down” is no longer a chore when tucks are chalnstitched. Simply unlock the last loop of the chain formed on the unde.»-side of the tuck and puli out the stitching.

Page 42

.I?

1|И Ш% И,

I ;-11;

Г?!

« Si:ten: zig-zag § « Stitch width: to suit fabric » Stitch length; to suit fabric a General purpose needle plate ® General purpose foot

Too Tight

» Rotate the group selector dial (A) to the right

as far as it will go. The zig-zag symbol wil

now appear in the yellow field above patterrt

selector button |S).

® Press pattern selector button {8). A red light

will appear above the zig-zag syrrsboi to indi cate that machine is ready to produce a basic zig-zag stitch at maximum stitch width

and medium stitch lenath.

cnmmuQ sTi

To change stitch length or width see page

22 in Chapter 3. Electronic Sewing.

Zig-Zag stitching usually requires less needie-thread tension than straight stitching. Be sure your machine is threaded correctly and

make a test sample v^ith the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust tension to suit the stitch pattern you have chosen. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric with out causing the fabric to pucker.

tne st:to.ne$ are not

puckered, lower the needle-thread tension turning the dial to a lower number.

flat

the fabric is

Page 43

Zig-zag stitching has found a solid place in

home sewing. The zig-zag stitch can be used creatively as well as practically. The following examples are effective uses of the zig-zag stitch. The results are left up to your imagina tion and ingenuity.

ZIG-ZAG SEAI^ FINISHES

Seam edges support the garment and shou be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. There are two methods of finishing seams in such fabrics: method 1. trimming after stitching seam edge, or method 2, over edging. Make a test sample first to determine which method best suits your fabric.

f^ethod No. 1 —Trimmed Seam Finish

«Stitch; zig-zag g or multi-stitch zig-zag T

• Stitch width: to suit fabric « Stitch length: to suit fabric

« General purpose needle plate » General purpose foot

1. Select appropriate stitch pattern.

2. Adjust stitch width and length if necessary.

3. Place stitching near the edge of the seam

allowance.

4. Trim seam edges evenly, as shown, after

stitching is comipleted.

THmmlng Edges

Page 44

Overedged Fmish

Method Mo. 2 — Overedged Seam Finish

Stitch: zig-zag $ or muiti-stitch zig-zag > Stitch width: to suit fabric Stitch length: to suit fabric General purpose rseedie plate Genera! purpose foot

1. Adjust stitch length and width if necessary.

2. Trim seam edges evenly.

3. Place stitching over the trimmed edge of

the seam allowance as illustrated.

LINGERIE SEAMS

• Stitch: zig-zag g

® Stitch width: narrowortosuitfabrlc « Stitch iength: to suit fabric « General purpose needle plate

e General purpose foot

To make a lingerie seam durable and flexible,

use the plain zig-zag stitch at a narrow width setting. This seam treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams. When seaming nylon tricot, insert a Yellow Band needle in the machine before you begin to sew.

Lingerie Seam

® St.>'alghi-stitch the seam on wrong side of

fabric.

• Press both seam allowances in the same

direction,

« From the right side, topstitch with narrow

zig-zag stitching, letting the needle alter

nately enter the seam line and the seam

thickness.

Page 45

SATIN STITCNING

* Stitch: zig-zag § ® Stitch width: to suit fabric

® Stitch length: 0 to 1 * General purpose r4eedle plate « Special purpose foot

Note: Other decorative stitch patterns ex cept stretch stitch patterns, may be sewn at satin-stitch length.

Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-like surface, is useful for both utility and decora tive work. It is accomplished by sewing a zig

zag stitch with stitch length pointer In the area

between 0 and 1. For best results, the special purpose foot must be used.

When you wish to produce a satin stitch,

make a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly.

Soft fabrics may require a backing to ensure firm: satin stitching. Crisp organdy or lawn is suitable for this purpose.

lUfclBl®!

5-^^ wi i!W> aw \

Adjusting Stitch Length for Satin Stitching

1. Open the personal preference panel, (A).

Set the stitch length pointer on 1.

2. Run the machine at a slow speed.

3. Gradually m,ove pointer from 1 toward 0 by

rotating the pointer downward until stitches are closely spaced and form a

smooth surface.

Stitch width may be varied in a similar man

ner. Move stitch width pointer to any desired

setting: the higher the number, the wider the

stitch.

Adjusting Tension for Satin Stitching

Satin stitching generally requires even less

tension than open zig-zag stitching. Further more, the wider the satin stitch, the lighter the

tension on the thread must be. Thus, a stitch width setting of 5 requires the least tension;

narrower stitching requires somewhat .more. Notice the stitching on your sample. If the

stitching looks too taut, or if the fabric is puckering, lower the needle thread tension by turning the tension dial to a lower number.

Incorrect

Correct

Page 46

lifc

APPLIQUE

Make a test sarr^ple to decide which of the foHowing methods is the most appropriate for your fabric and design. Mark design on piece of fabric to be appHqued. Cut out design ieav-

ing about 3/4-inch {2cm) margin ali around.

Position the design.

Baste it to the fabric.

Method 1

® Set pattern seiector and stitch-width dial for

desired applique stitch. Adjust stitch length to a fine setting, between 1 and 0.

• Follow the outer edge of the design with a

decorative stitch.

» Trim away the excess fabric on the outer

edges of the stitching.

Hettiod 2

sMoîhod 2

« Select straight stitching.

lit

« Outline the entire design with a short stitch. e Trim raw edges to the stitching and remove

basting.

• Select stitch pattern and stitch width

desired, and set stitch iength on a satin stitch setting lor a ciosely spaced stitch, between 1 and 0.

® Stitch, foiiowing the straight stitch outiine.

This method wlli produce a smooth overedged finish, with no raw edges to be trim med after stitching.

Method 3 ® Purchased motifs can be appliqued quickly

and easily by using either a straight or

decorative stitch.

Method 3

Page 47

¥ПЕЕ-ШОТЮЫ STITCHiHG

In free-motion stitching, you sew without a presser foot and control fabric movement by means of an embroidery hoop. Either a

straight or a plain zig-zag stitch can be used.

Because you can move the hoop in any direc

tion — forward or backward, from side to side, or even diagonally — free-motion stitching is extremely useful for embroidery designs. On the other hand, it is equally useful for darning.

if you are embroidering, you can vary the

length of stitches simply by moving the hoop faster or slower under the needle. The faster you move the hoop, the longer the stitches will

be. You can also vary the width of zig-zag stitches from wide to narrow by controlling the angle at which the hoop is placed and moved under the needle.

For darning, the embroidery hoop used in free-motion stitching enables you to hold the fabric taut — a real advantage when your

fabric is lightweight or soft and thus likely to

pucker. See page 32 for directions.

2. Hold needle thread loosely and turn hand

wheel toward you to bring bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle Into fabric.

3. Stitch, outlining or filling in design with zig

zag stitches. For a smooth, satiny surface, place parallel stitches close together, mov ing hoop slowly and steadily. For an irregu lar texture, move the hoop more rapidly, allowing some stitches to overlap.

A series of bar-tacks can be used to form

spray-like leaves or flowers. This technique adds variety and lightness to many designs. Leaves and petals formed in this way may carry the thread from one bar tack to the next.

This carrying thread eliminates tying of the

thread ends.

FLOWER EliBROIOERY

Pattern; zig-zag § ® Stitch width: to suit fabric ® Feed cover needle plate a No presser foot

Preparation

Trace design on right side of fabric. .P.*'epare the area to be embroidered using an underlay

if the fabric is soft. Place the work in an

embroidery hoop approximately 7 inches

(18cm) in diameter. If the design to be

embroidered covers a large area, it will be

necessary to reposition the work in the hoop

as each section is completed.

The darning and embroidery foot may be used

to assist fabric control.

Procedure

1. Position work under needle and lower

presser bar to engage tension.

Compfeted Flower Design

liiiiiii

Page 48

6. MACHINE STITCH PATTERNS

adjusting stitches

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser

foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Some fabrics —nylon tricot and elasticized fabrics, for example — do require support while being stitched.

o For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits,

apply gentle tension by holding the seam in front and back of the presser foot as you sew.

« For elasticized fabric, stretch lace, and knits

with an unusual amount of elasticity, apply

firm tension in front and back of the presser

foot to stretch the seam as the stitches are being placed.

Applying Firrri Tension

MAX

mnm.

CAUTION: Do not puli the fabric while you are stitchi,ng as this may deflect the needle, caus ing it to break.

ADJUSTING PRESSURE WHEN

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC

Some knit and stretch fabrics, because of

their structure, require either more or less

than normal (NORU) presser-bar pressure to

feed smoothly and evenly.

e For thick, soft or very stretchy knits,

decrease pressure by turning dial from NORM (normal) toward DARN.

e For nylon tricot, ciré and similar hard sur

face synthetic knits, increase pressure by turning dial from NORM (normal) toward MAX (maximum).

Page 49

handling special fabrics

Many fabrics, because of their construction or finish, demand special attention in sewing. Tech niques used in stitching and handling, and choice of machine accessories, will vary with the

fabric. Let the table below guide your selection.

FABmc-HAmLmQ table

FABHiC

leptiie

veive:, epss:|ii||gyi||i|s|

0eEiFlu|L-::i-:

FERMANiiMT i'i PRESS —

pfercalCfllf! b'roadbioihr

SPSCtAL HAKDLiKG

iriKpifeht:ppe%s:aiiibi^

basting—Topstitch to hold seams and edges bound butiDAholes.

Stjlph^lhdirectibhipflhap

ini—ir^i:dveia:ailf-Pltnc1ltPthit-L

Pin rather than baste seams —Stitch in directibl ''oi|hd:piip;iie piph' :pBiiip|ishdrt^hai tuns; narrow overedged seams for shaggy, bulky

'educe ou <

Controi seam tension as it passes under "e

presser foot. Sew at moderate speed.

STITCH

Length-Type

Long Straight

hifedium Straight

jflldiildr Yarns':

Medium Zig-Zag Stitch for

®irdiityg*f;

rfchgiStralght, L-

Stitch for plain Medium to Short

-cr jva-ecgeC

Meciurr St'dign;

NEEDLE Styie-Size

Style 2020

i^ildrWb^edi'*'-

backing

Size 14or 16 ■

..............

<:iSiylei:2b2b :

Style 2045 for panne

velvet

Iplpiibiili

style 2020

Tp28ife|l4

NiACHINE

ACCESSORIES

6 1

S: GdiiraiPdrpcsel r'CeiirafiFdiib^':|

iiipaiaiiiiiiiiiis

General Purpose

1; Fo|tifiili|i|:i|i;,,

I■

lilsFclIiillidri

overcasting) General Purpose

). Piaie 1 .17 IT'''''''.

i: GeiiEi'pipbse | ! Fo<itti'\f|'''''''':'''i'

li'Ptiie::. f| ’ "

Straight-Stitcn

P Fo<|pb:hiSlap ■

FlHEiii...

KXSTS —

;r cc; ,e'sey

BiKDiMG — satin face

SOFT SH££R~4-|

t For best resuits

FABRIC — aiohalr, carnel ;?

Center,

Psi'''hprdvif'Pemdiidr sFrlridhlipp^iSlldli IhiliiiP

a fbw 'sltdbiiiiltari P seiP'PbdiPrfseams'' while stitching. See page 46 —mcrease presseifdcipt^#um;-: '

' shdw)’‘pi'Sjtliikbd|hP4

bsd:>F||hdi!i'*Se|Ps,idbpiii^t^^ ertds of .needle and bobbin thread when you

Cu|, whlsbai of td hoilliliiiiisSndledges.

fiat.

when sewing this fabric, we recommend use of

...

|ui|ings|dcvi^i::—Je^ili

Medium Stralg.hi

ijdtltpi:...

Zig^ or Marrow f village jj,..

Long Straight

fditbii®...

Medium to Long

Zig-Zag Stitch

iiiriiteioraive i

Stitch

iMediimtdlShc#

Straight Stitch

the Even Feed Foot. avaiSable at your Singer Sewi.ng

■iipii2d4|ii|i‘ rp2i|:tbdl'4

■»i'p2ei|i'dipi^

ijtyiioalli:

....

..........

iiipbeiiiidiiifc

Size 11 or 14

Straight-Stitch

1 |iPdd|idn||Pla|bf L:

(for straight General Purpose

Foot and Plate

ii: {foiblgrl^g:.il........,.,.„i.,..

il'siitpliiiiiil'l

:|'Gehesal|Fdrpose if

ii GfeiifaiiPirpbse f

ii..Strdigt^iStit|hi.'.i.i:|

i|ip||piipbpisifiiii|^

ii GeptbllPuriose J

Gerseral Purpose

|Pla||ii|i||ft^^^^^

Page 50

stitch centerint

e Stitch; stitch desired * Width: to suit fabric a.nd desired effect » Ler^gth: to suit fabric and desired effect » General purpose needle plate « Special purpose foot ® Speed range: SLOW

When sewing, it is important to correctly

guide the stitches on your fabric to achieve centered stitching. A line of stitching is cen tered when it lies evenly on an imaginary line on the fabric. To clearly see what stitch cen tering is, and to practice even stitch guidance

and machine control, try the test below.

Use a light color top and under thread for this test. This will dem.onstrate to you how a cor rectly centered line of stitching lies on a given line.

« Set machine on straight stitch.

« Attach special purpose foot

(Notice that foot is clear plastic for better

visibility and has vertical black line in the

center to guide stitch placement on fabric.

« Draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper or

use graph paper, if available.

® Place paper under presser foot with drawn

line centered under black vertical guideline

of special purpose foot. o Lower presser foot. « Lower needle by turning hand wheel toward

you, and position it on drawn line of paper.

® Carefully sew along the drawn li.ne on the

paper, using black vertical guideline of foot to guide stitching.

(Do not ’watch needle.) « After you have sewn along the drawn line,

carefully remove paper from under presser foot.

if you have correctly guided the paper while sewing, the stitched line will be centered. Notice that the stitching lies evenly on the

drawn line. Try a paper sampler using a variety of stitches

to practice stitch centering. To assure centered stitching on the fabrics

you sew, use a guideline marked with tailor chalk.

Os Os

4. I

*/*

‘V

i.<

Page 51

stitch usage: functional and decorative

Many stitches on your new machine have both functional and decorative applications. The following pages include examples to il lustrate the versatility of these stitches.

ihough many stitches can perform in a giver

FEATHERSTITCH

Fagoting

® Stitch; featherstitch ^ 6 Stitch width: to suit fabric and design ® Stitch length: to suit fabric and design o General purpose needle plate ® General purpose foot ® Speed range: SLOW

application, to avoid repetition only one stitch

has been used in each example. We,

therefore, hope that the examples provided will help you to use your own creative talents.

The art of Joining two pieces of fabric with an open, lacy decorative stitch is called fagoting. You can create this attractive trimming with the feather stitch. Use it for decorative stretch seams in bathing suits or for joining together

narrow strips of fabric to make an entire gar

ment sectio.n.

• Turn under (and hem by slipstitching) the raw edges of the fabric strips or seams to be joined. Press flat.

« Stitch, guiding the two fabric edges under

the center of the presser foot a scant 1 /8inch (3mm) apart (abut edges for bathing suit seams). Allow the needle to alternately make a stitch in each fabric strip and two stitches in the center of the opening.

Page 52

Patchwork Quìiiing

ilÉIii

Patchwork Qyiltirtg

0 Stitch; featherstitch |

«• Stitch width: to suit fabric and design

• Stitch iength; to suit fabric and design

• Generai purpose needle piate

• General purpose foot

• Speed range: SLOW

Patchwork for quilts and wearing apparel, for merly put together with hand stitching, can be

quickly “pieced” and decorated at the same

time by using the feather stitch. Joinings are both flexible and durable when this method is used.

Procedyre:

1. Cut a fabric underlay to size. Baste a light layer of padding to underlay if a quilted effect Is desired.

2. Prepare patches, turning under 1/4-inch

(6mm) seam allowance.

3. Baste patches to underlay In arrangement

desired, butting all edges.

4. Stitch in lengthwise and crosswise rows,

allowing stitches to straddle patches.

Page 53

PAMS ротт STITCH

tern used for OemstUching, drawn-thread i

et^|eii:aniisji|pi

fabrics from which threads can be drawn

readily such as linen. There are many ap-

and bed linens when hems are finished i

Picot Edges

» Stitch: Paris Point stitch ^ ® Stitch width: to suit fabric and effect ® Stitch length: to suit fabric and effect

General purpose needle plate

® General purpose foot ® Speed range: SLOW

A dainty and decorative picot-like edge can be very simply made in fine, sheer fabrics when you use the Paris Point stitch. The fine hemstitched finish produced by this stitch is particularly appropriate for edging ruffles because it eliminates bulk. Use it too, as a

foundation stitch for hand rolled hems, it will

make bias cut edges firm and easy to handle. Soft fabrics such as chiffon and voile, can be given a picot edge if they are supported by a

crisp fabric underlay while being stitched. Al ways make a test sample to determine the

need for an underlay and the correctness of

stitch width, stitch length, and thread tension.

pies have been provided which we hope

ZÀ •

® Use a large needle (size 18 is recom

mended) and a fine mercerized cotton thread.

e Mark stitching line approximately 1/2-inch

(1.2cm) in fromi rav^ edge of fabric.

® Stitch along marked line, placing fabric sc

that the edge to be finished is turned to the right.

® Trim fabric close to the right side of line of

stitching as shown.

Page 54

Steps 1, 2 and 3

Paris Point Hemstitcliing

• Stitch; Paris Point stitch ^

• Stitch width: to suit fabric and effect ® Stitch ieiigth; to suit fabric and effect e General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or

• Special purposefoot

• Speed range; SLOW

Paris Point hemstitching is most effective when used on firm, plain weave fabrics such as lawn or organdy, or fabrics from which threads can be drawn readily, such as linen.

1. Insert a size 18 needle and thread the machine with a fine mercerized cotton, silk,

or synthetic sewing thread.

2. Turn edge of fabric over twice to make hem

of desired width. Fold and press on length wise or crossv/ise thread of fabric. Baste in place.

3. Draw out 2 to 4 threads just above top edge of hem. The number of threads drawn will depend on the texture of the fabric and the depth of the open work desired.

4. Place work, right side up, under presser foot with the hem toward the left.

5. Lower the presser foot and stitch, guiding the hem edge under the needle so that the straight stitches are made in the drawn thread channel (or through the single thickness of fabric) and the sideward stitches (or points) in the hem.

Fririged Edges

® Cut fabric carefully to correct size. * Draw a thread for depth of fringe along each

edge.

e Place fabric so that the edge to be fringed is

turned to the right.

® Stitch with matching or contrasting thread

along marked lines, pivoting on the needle at corners.

• Fray fabric threads between stitching and

fabric edges to form fringe.

Page 55

OVEmDQE STRETCH STITCH

MAAMAMAAAAAAAAA

be used creatively, it is primarily applied

"I'i":

....

iilii|fl|i|fbirii| edges. Use it to overedge seams that re quire stretch such as crotch seams.

........

Overedged Seams

9 Stitch: overedge stretch stitch ^

® Stitch width: 5t ® Stitch length: to suit fabric and effect ® General purpose needle plate o Overedge fodt * Speed range: SLOW

Method 1

Make a test sample to determine the suitability of an overedge seam finish for your garment. Duplicate the grain of your garment seam. Adjust thread tension to suit fabric. Use an appropriate YeZ/ow Band* needle in the

machine for a synthetic knit. (See Fabric, Thread, and Needle table on page 12.)

suit and svirim suit construction. Exam ples of how to use the overedge stretch stitch follow.

Method 1

Baste the garment together on the seam line

allowing for 5/8-inch (1.5cm) seam allowance

and fit in the usual way.

After making any necessary adjustments, trim

seam edge evenly to a scant 1/4-inch (5mm)

from! seam-line basting.

Place trimmed seam under the foot so that the

straight stitches fall on the basted seam line

and zig-zag stitches fall over the seam edge.

tSf a narrower stitch width is desired, as for seam finishing

of fine fabrics, use the general purpose foot in place of the overedge foot.

Stsichrng Seam

Page 56

Method 2

Mock Overedging

l^ock Overedge

This finish is appropriate for bulky knits, fine tricots and fabrics that curl or fray.

Method 2

Make a test sample. Baste the garment together on the seam line

and fit in the usual way.

After making any necessary adjustments, suggested in Method 1, place seam under foot. Stitch so that the stitches on the left sice of the pattern penetrate the basted seam line.

Press after stitching and trim away excess

fabric to produce a narrow seam. edge. When the seam supports the garment, omit the trim

ming step and press seam open in the usual

way.

Overedged Seam Finish

9 Stitch: overedge stretch stitch ^

o Stitch width: 5 onlyt ® Stitch length: to suit fabric and effect « General purpose needle plate a Cveredge foot « Speed range: SLOW

Adjust stitch length to suit your fabric. Trim seam edges evenly.

Place stitching over the trimmed edge of the

seam allowance as illustrated.

tif a narrower stitch width Is desired, as for overedging

fine fabrics, use the general purpose foot in place of the

overedge foot.

Page 57

BumsincH

---------

5®|ii|iS|i|l|ii:i|iii'S

fynctloiial uses. Its most common use

provides a durable hem finish. However

Am,.

m wwM» w ww mm M»

Blifidstitcli Hems

Slindstitchirsg provides a durable hem finish

that is almost invisible. It is best suited to

straight or slightly curved seams. Taped,

bound, or turne6 hem edges can also be

blindstitched with equal ease.

Stitch: biindstltch Stitch width: to suit fabric Stitch length: to suit fabric General purpose needle plate General purposefoot

provided which we hope will help to trig ger your imagination.

1. Raise foot, loosen screw, and slip blind

stitch hem guide between the screw and the shank of the foot. Make sure the under side of the guide clears the slide plate and

the front of the foot. Tighten screw with coin.

2. Prepare hem in the usual way. It Is advisa

ble to baste the hem. Place the basting at least 1/2-inch (1.3cm) below the edge of the hem allowance to avoid catching the flange of the guide as you stitch.

3. With the wrong side of the work uppermost,

turn the hem under, creating a soft fold

from the top edge of the hem.

4. Position the hem under the foot with the soft fold resting against the wall of the guide. Make sure the flange of the guide is

between the soft fold and top of hem, as

shown.

5. Lower the foot, stitch so that the straight stitches fall on the hem allowance and the zig-zag stitches pierce the soft fold of the work. Adjust stitch width If necessary. While stitching, guide the hem edge in a straight line and feed the soft fold evenly against the wall of the guide.

Page 58

SHndstitohsrig a Ladder Seam

Ladder Seam

The blindstitch ladder seam Is particularly ap

propriate for kr^it and stretch fabrics. It is ideal for stretchable construction seams, and edge finishes for necklines, pockets and collars in

sportswear and swimsuits.

« Stitch; blindstitch

® Stitch width: to suit fabric

» Stitch length: to suit fabric

® General purpose needle plate

® General purpose foot

1. Make a test sample to adjust stitch width and length and needle-thread tension to

suit the fabric. (Needle-thread tension should be lighter than normal)

2. Cut and fit garment, allowing for 5/8-lnch

(1.5cm) seam allowance. Baste seam line.

3. Place fabric under presser foot so that the

straight stitches fall on the seam line bast ing and the points toward the center of the

garment.

Opening Seam to Fixm Ladder Effect

4. After stitching, open seam> by pulling fabric

back on opposite sides of the seam to pro duce ladder effect. Press seam allowance after opening.

Page 59

SCALLOP STITCH

...I................................IS.....

........................ ...........

Scalloping aacs interest to blouses, dresses, lingerie, and children's clothes. S|all|ps|: wl|L:te

gii,::

■stitch. Twin needle scaiiop stitching adds

® Stitch: scaiscp ,i

• Stitch width: to suit fabric and design o Stitch length: to suit fabric and design

* General purpose needle plats

® General purpose foot

1. Place right sides of fabric together.

(Shaped or bias edges should be inter

faced.) Stitch scaiiops.

2. After stitching, trim seam allowance to

1 /8-inch (3mm) or less,

a touch of femininity to garmerits. The decorative uses of this stitch are unendo

„Jlgj.iiySÉ:igP|Ì:xffi;2:Ìld^^

........

Notch

3. Clip points down to fiat stitch of scaiiops with scissors and, if necessary to make points lie flat, notch curves.

4. Turn to the right side and gentiy pust

scaiiops out. Press fiat.

Wrons Side of Scalloped Edge

Right Side of Scalloped Edge

Page 60

:liyLTI-STiTCH ZIG-2A0 ■

/ V"* V' V* V' V V^ 'v' V' V N

■]ThÍr:;mÍIP|tif®'fl||~^^

versatile stitci^. Use ít to mentí. Join, or

"foo-miy"iiití aid dfMdli'lioil"::

construct lingerie and swimsuits, as we'.'.

i^yi ■

i^-% *^\

useful applications for the mylti-stltch

|;z:|||za|. ilampiellSilejii^^ Pyddr

lending a Tear

• Stitch; multi-stitch zig-zag ’> ® Stitch width: 2 to 5 ® Stitch length; programmed o General purpose needle plate o General purpose foot

Many zig-zag stitch patterns are just as useful for mending as they are for creative sevring. The multi-stiich zig-zag forrrts a firm, flexible

bond that is ideal for repairing tears.

1. Trim ragged edges.

2. Place underlay on the wrong side of tear

for reinforcement. (Do not baste or pin the underlay, since you wlH be bringing the edges together in the next step.)

3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges

of the tear together. Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength.

4. Trim underlay.

Page 61

Replacing Lingerie Elastic

® Stitch; muiti-stiich zig-zag < ® Stitch width; 2 to 5 ® Stitch length: 1.5 ® General purpose needle plate « General purpose foot

1. Fit elastic for desired snugness at waistline, allowing one inch (2.5cm) for

joining. Lap ends and stitch together as

shown using a ball point needle.

2. Divide elastic band into four equal seg

ments and mark with pins. Do the same to the garment Then pin together a! corres ponding points, pinning elastic over right side of fabric, top edges even.

3. Select multi-stitch zig-zag. Plain zig-zag, elastic stretch stitch, honeycomb or featherstitch are also effective for replac

ing lingerie elastic.

4. Take a few stitches to anchor elastic to fabric. Then hold elastic and garment edge taut as you stitch so that It will remain stretchable after stitching is completed.

Caution: Do not puU the fabric vrhUe you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus ing it to break.

FIMISHES FOR HEMS AUB FACINGS

'■J'

Vic:

Jcin.ng E cstic

Beplacing Lingerie Elastic

o-'*: ■

® Stitch; mulil-stitch zig-zag <

® Stitch width; 5

« Stitch length; 1.5 to 3

® General purpose needle plate

6 General purpose foot

Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fabrics will be less apt to press through and

mark when given a flat edge-finish. Edge finishing with the multi-stitch zig-zag elimi

nates the bulk of turned-in edges and retains fabric flexibility.

1. Make a test sample to check thread ten

sion and stitch length if you are using the

multi-stitch zig-zag.

2. Place stitching about 1/2-inch {1.3cm)

from hem or facing edge.

3. Press after stitching and trim away excess

fabric close to the stitching line.

Page 62

HONEYCOMB STITCH

The honeycon^b stitch is ideal for s.TOok-

ir:s ar^d useful for meriting, overcasting

and attaching eiastic, stretch iace and

blanket binding, dse this versatile stitch to create decorative designs or; fabrics

iiil

.....

iiiiPit’i'hi

Blanket Binding

Stitch; honeycomb % Stitch width; to suit fabric and effect Stitch length: to suit fabric and effect General purpose needle plate General purpose foot Speed range; SLOW

Often you can make a blanket look almost new by replacing the binding. The honeycomb stitch is particularly suitable because it com bines utility with beauty.

1. Make a sample first to determine the cor

rect stitch width and length setting. Reduce pressure (on pressuredial) and in crease stitch length if necessary, so that blanket feeds freely. See page 22 for In structions on adjusting stitch length.

:^anket

2. Remove worn binding and caste new bind ing securely in place.

3. Stitch, and remove basting.

The even feed foot which can be purchased at your Singer Sewing Center is most suitable for this application, it ensures smooth feeding and prevents fabric slippage.

Page 63

lilAXI-STHETCH STITCH

Tha maxi-stretch stitch is an invaluahis

stitch most commonly used for sewingsia^rri^i;OiJa|5fics it can be made in various lengths, the maxi-stretch stitch is particularly useful

for seaming extra-heavy and extra-bulky i

Maxi-Stretcli Stitch Seam

® Stitch; maxi-stretch stitch | ® Stitch length: to suit fabric 9 General purpose needle plate * General purpose foot ® Speed range; SLOW

Make a test sample first to determine the best stitch length, pressure and tension settings for your fabric. To be sure that you are using

the correct needle and thread combination for your fabric, see the Fabric. Thread, and Nee dle Table on page 12.

Adjusting Stitch Length

i^bib

...

a|d..|S:.elssili....................

Illiiiiisl

■ftri|ch'|stitihe|f Ipe^^ p

creativity with this stitch to ornament gar-

........................

......

...pcbpibt|ti''i'';:pbfpit^ ^ilhbairipl

rAdjusting Reverse Stitch-Balance

Maxi-stretch stitch length is adjusted in the

same way as regular straight stitch length.

Longer stitches are most appropriate in firm

woven and bonded fabrics, heavy double

knits and sweater knits; shorter stitches are best for medium-weight knits and woven

stretch fabric. For maximum strength, use the shortest stitch compatible with fabric weight.

Page 64

Maxi-Sireich Stitch {Continued)

Adjysting Heversc Stitches

For maximum strength and good appearance,

forward and reverse stitches that make up the

maxi-stretch stitch should be balanced and of

equal length. See page 24 on how to adjust

reverse stitch balance control.

Procedyre

1. Pin or baste seam.

2. Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot to back of machine. Hold thread ends and by turning the hand wheel toward you, posi tion needle In fabric a scant 1/4-inch (6mm) in from starting edge.

3. Lower presser foot and start machine,

toidlng thread ends at back of foo t as first

few stitches are made.

4. Guide fabric lightly, let make the back-and-forth

;mg

stitci

he machine

stretch to the seam.

CAUTION: Do not puU fabric while you apply gentle or firm tension, as this may deflect nee dle, causing it to break.

When stitching across folds and seam join

ings. apply tension by holding seam, in front

ana oack

assist feeding, tial for thick.

ie presser foot, as shown, to

This type of support Is essen-

fabrics.

Straight Stretch

Page 65

ELASTIC STHETCH for STITCH

Ti-.e e.astic straxr. s::tch or "V" stitch .s an attractive stitch which, may effectiveiy

Stretch Garinent Repair

® Stitch; “M” stitch I ® Stitch width: to suit fabric » Stitch length: to suit fabric

• General purpose needle plate

® General purpose foot

Seams in stretch garments retain their

elasticity when stitched with the “ivT stitch.

This stitch pattern builds stretch into the seam as it is being sewn and is equaily suita

ble when used to topsiitch (as shown) or to

overedge. Make a test sample to check stitch width and length settings.

stretch garment repair and may be used for pia:n anc cvereccec seams in knit and

! I 1^

Lace Insertion

Fine iace insertion and edging add a feminine touch to biouses, dresses and children’s

wear. Such trimming can be made decorative and durable when applied with the “M" stitch.

Insertion

1. Mark position of lace and baste lace in

position.

2. Stitch, guiding work under needle so that the top of the stitches fail along the edge of the lace as illustrated.

3. Trim fabric away under lace insertion after

stitching both edges.

with Elastic Stretch Tcpstitching

Lace Insertion

Page 66

Your new SINGER sewing machine has several decorative stitches. These versatile stitches allow you to add imagination and creativity to your sewing projects. With these decorative stitches, you can apply to clothes and household items: interesting details, youthful and feminine accents, and per sonalized effects.

Some of the many applications of the decora

tive stitches include border designs, appli

qués. twin-needle stitching, finished hems, smocking, embroidering, monograms and

topstltching accent lines on clothes. The

following pages i!lustrate several of the

decc^ative stitches on your machine and pro

vide examples for their creative use.

Border Desïcn

ВОВОЕВ OESIOriS

Border designs that add a decorative touch to wearing apparel and household item,s can be created by combining different types of straight stitching and zig-zag stitching. Sim

ple or elaborate, delicate or bold, they can be varied to suit the application. Use them as you would a braid or to simulate horizontal, verti

cal or bias stripes on plain fabric.

Procedyre

Mark or crease fabric for the center line of first row of stitching. If spacing between rows is not greater than 1/2-inch (1.3cm), gauge additional rows with the presser foot. If spac ing is wider, mark for each line of stitching. Use a backing of crisp lawn, organdy or a fusi ble interfacing and be sure to make a test sample on a swatch of your fabric to check stitch settings and thread tension.

Page 67

yOMOGRAMS Many decorative stitch patterns can be used

for monograms and motifs — to add a per sonal touch to jacket yokes, for example, or for initialing household linens. You can buy designs or create them yourself to suit the stitch pattern you wish to use.

Very simple straight-line monograms can be made with the plain zig-zag stitch, or you can

create a motif by ar.^'anglng individual pattern units to form a design. (Detailed information on pattern repeat button on page 21.)

When you use a decorative stitch pattern to form a motif, your machine will autom.atically be programmed to start at the beginning of the pyramid, bead, or whatever pattern you have selected.

^ionograrri’^ In Ìlaìht2S#Zai'lÌnB Sticbl

Insilai In Plain Zig-Zag and Bead Stitch

::Lthe...Édnogram in Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

Page 68

Topstltching with Leaf Stitch

TOPSTITCHING

A practscaL simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges, hems, pockets, seams, etc. For a tailored

;ooK, use sew them strands emphasis. zag stitch. The even feed foot, available for separate purchase at your local SINGER store, will help you place stitching evenly and accurately. To keep stitching at an even dis tance from the fabric edge, use the seam guide.

ines of regular straight stitching;

with buttonhole twist (or double

or decorative interest, use a zlg-

regular thread) for added

Two-thread TopstitcNfig

Sold, well-defined topstitchlng is produced by

using two strands of regular thread in the nee dle instead of a single strand. Ideal for sum

mer knits, linens, cottons, denims, and vinyls,

two thread topstitchlng is economical and

particularly appropriate for use v/hen a ncn-

lustrous, washable finish is required.

o Select a size 16. Style 2C20 needle for

woven fabric and use a size 14, Style 2045

Yellow Sand needle for knits. Refer to

Fabric, Thread and Needle Chart on page

12.

• Select straight stitching.

»Clip detachable spool pin to thread

guidepost,

o Using the two threads, th.^ead the machine

In the regular way for single-needle stitch

ing. For best results, use size 50 mercerized

cotton thread or cotton-wrapped polyester thread.

® Pass threads together into tension discs

and threading points above the needle.

» Cut thread ends diagonally and draw both

through the eye of the needle.

« Make a stitching test to determine the best

stitch length and needle-thread tension. A long stitch, 2.5 to 4 on your stitch length dial, is usually best.

Two-ihread Topstiiching

® Sew at moderate speed.

Page 69

SMOCKIMG

Smocking is a youthful decorative detail that

is particularly charming when used for a yoke,

insert or band on baby clothes, little girls’ dresses, or lingerie.

When worked by hand, smocking is a timeconsuming process. Ho'wever, the heavystitched look, typical of hand work, can be stitched quickly and easily with your machine when you use decorative patterns.

Procedure:

1. Space rows of straight stitching with stitch length pointer set on 5; 1/4-inch (6mm)

apart, on the crossv/lse fabric grain.

Set tension dial betv/een 0 and 1.

2. Pull up evenly for the amount of fullness desired. Secure thread ends by tying knots close to the fabric to prevent gathers from puiling out of position.

3. Baste section or area to be s.mocked to un derlay.

4. Stitch over and between rows of gathering with decorative stitching. Create your own

design or adapt the ones illustraiec. Use thread that contrasts with or matches your fabric, depending on the effect desired.

A test sample is always advisable to check stitch settings. Be sure to use the same fabric and degree of fullness you plan for your gar ment.

: Smocked iand"

____ ,

_____

Smocked Sand Accented

with Cording

Smocked Band Con^leted

Page 70

Take-jp

■_ever

.....

Hear Thread Guide

-yy :

TWIM-NEEDLE STITCHING

The twin-needle simultaneously produces

two parallel, closely spaced lines of decora tive stitching. You can stitch with either one or two colors of thread.

* Stitch length; to suit fabric

» Stitch width: to suit fabric ® General purpose foot

» General purpose needle plate

Caution: Always move the tv/ln-needle switch to the right {f| symbol) before stitch ing with the twin-needle. Unless this switch has been activated, needle breakage will result. Upon completion of your twin-needle sewing, return switch to its ieft position

( I symbol).

Twin-Needle Switch

TensipaJMC.:.:.,

SeiMfa(pr: f ai ?lpf P j‘|;r

...........................................................................

i^:Gha?5nel

m ri

....

.......Ì

Procedyre

® Thread machine with first thread in usual

manner, making certain it passes between tension separator and right-hand tension disc.

® Wind bobbin with enough thread to com:-

plets stitching. (Since a bobbin cannot be filled after a twin-needle is inserted, it is wise to keep an extra wound bobbin on hand

for replacement)

® Unthread and remove needle.

« Attach detachable spool pin to thread

guidepost and insert the twin needle.

® Pass first thread through right eye of needle.

® Place second spool of thread on detachable

spool pin and thread as before, except

bypass snap-in thread guidepost and pass

thread between tension separator and left-

hand tension disc and through left eye of

needle.

Page 71

I o LES

taking two or three tying stitches.

»Stitch: overedge stretch stitch o Stitch width: to suit button « Stitch length; C ® Sutton foot

o Feed cover plate

ATTACHIMG A BrnrOH

» Attach button foot and feed cover plate to

machine and turn on machine. ® Select cveredge stretch stitch ^ . »Turn hand wheel toward you

moves to left side.

• Place garment under foot, then position but

ton on garment.

® Turn hand wheel again to lower needle Into

left hole of button, and lower foot. » Turn hand wheel again carefully until needle

is just above right hole. Adjust stitch width,

if required, so that needle will enter right

hole of button. See page 22 for Information

on stitch width control.

» Run machine slowly. Allow at least three

groups of crossover stitches to enter right

hole of button. Finish sewing on left side.

;;nti

neecie

® Remove work from machine leaving 4 In

ches \10cm) of thread, pull thread ends through to inside of garment, and knot them close to fabric to form a secure finish.

fOnmmB A THREAD SHAHK

Buttons sewn on coats and jackets should

have a thread shank to make them stand away from the fabric. A thread shank is formed by sewing over the blade of a regular machine needle.

® Position needle, garment and button as de

scribed above.

® Place needle in groove of foot so that point

enters hole in foot first, as shown. The further in you push needle, the longer the shank will be.

® After stitching, remove needle from groove

of button foot, remove work from machine, and cut threads about 6 inches (15cm) from fabric.

® Pull needle thread ends to back of button,

form a firm shank between button and fabric by winding threads tightly around attaching stitches, and tie thread ends securely.

Attaching a Button

'A'

Shianki

Page 72

Bar-Tack Suttc«ihole,

Finisi-^ed Edqe of Garmeni

buttonholes

Your new machine comes complete with a

built-in two step buttonhole system. Before sewing on your garment always make a test buttonhole dupUcating the number of thicknesses of fabric and interfacing if ap

propriate.

syiTONHOLE posmon

Accurate guidelines are essential to keep but tonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment, evenly spaced, and on the grain of the material.

1. Mark the center line of the garment using

hand basting, machine speed basting or

with the buttonhole gauge found in the ac cessory box, and tailor’s chalk. For

machine speed basting information see page 27.

® Se sure that the space fromi the center

fine to the finished edge of the garment is at least equal to three-quarters the diameter of the button. (With this spac ing, the button will not extend beyond the edge -when the garment is buttoned.)

'■8pizdfr^ai№

on Crosswise Grain

t op:

e Make sure that the center line marking

follows a lengthwise fabric thread.

2. Mark a position guideline for each but

tonhole. 6 Horizontal buttonholes are placed to ex

tend 1 /8-inch (3mm) beyond the center

line of the garment, as shown, so that the

buttons will be in the center of the figure when the garment Is fastened.

* Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should

follow a crosswise fabric thread and be longer than the finished length of the but tonhole.

« Mark ends of each buitonhole vertically. e Vertical buttonholes are placed so that

the center line of the garment is in the center of the buttonhole, as shown.

® Mark the ends of each buttonhole

horizontally across the center line bast ing and use the center line marking as the buttonhole guide when stitching.

Page 73

BUTTOMHOLE LENGTH

A buttonhole length should be just long enough to allow the button to slip through the opening without stretching it,

« Estimate the proper buttonhole length by

measuring the width plus the thickness of the button.

o To make sure the measurement is correct,

cut a slit in a scrap of fabric equal to the diameter of the button you intend to use.

« increase length of opening until button slips

through easily.

This test is particularly advisable for buttons of unusual shape or thickness.

^tarking Lines

BUTTONHOLE INTEHFACING

It is almost always advisable to use an inter

facing in the buttonhole area. An interfacing

holds the fabric firmly so that a neat but

tonhole may be stitched and keeps the finished buttonhole In shape, interfacing is essential when the fabric is loosely woven or

is a crepe or knit that stretches easily.

When planning your garment, remember that

bar tack buttonholes are stitched through

three thicknesses of fabric — garment, inter facing and facing —after the facing has been attached.

putting Space Side Stitching

Testing Suîtonhole Length

Page 74

MAl

TWO-STEP BOTTOriHOLlNG

Make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric, with interfacing if being used, before working on your garment.

• Determine length of button and mark start

and end line of buttonhole on fabric.

• Attach general purpose needle plate and

iwo-sieo buttonhole foot.

® Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot

towards back of machine.

» Place fabric under foot so that buttonhole

start line is aligned with red guideline on foot. Lower foot.

• Select left side of buttonhole by pushing

button on pattern selection panel.

« Select slow speed, start machine and let it

complete left side of buttonhole.

« Stop machine just before guideline on but

tonhole foot reaches the buttonhole end line of the fabric.

9 Select right side of buttonhole by pushing

button on pattern selection panel.

• Start machine and let it complete right side of buttonhole. Stop sewing when stitching

reaches starting bar tack.

Page 75

if the test buttonhole Is not to your liking or does not suit your fabric for any of the following reasons, the procedure below shows you how to correct the appearance.

I..Ill

...

Ill

........

.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

.I ....

teii

THEN DO THIS

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Decorrte *arther aoart or.

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• l l I l..i.| f:.i....iyt....i.h J

Will cause stitches to

sSiiipfeieSiereiiiOPsoios

Stitching a Series of Buttonholes

If the test buttonhole suits your purpose, you may stitch additional indenticai buttonholes by using the pattern repeat button on your machine. To use this method foilow the pro

cedure oeiow.

Step 1. Sew one complete buttonhole on your

machine.

Step 2, Press the pattern repeat button on

your machine. (This will stitch the left side of your buttonhole automaticaiiy

for you.) Stop machine when desired

buttonhole length is reached.

Step 3. Press the stitch selection button for

the right side of your buttonhole.

Will cause shtches to

i"bicopi:'f|fih|fiipefi^

\ i /

j =

r'5 r i

Step 1

Follow steps 2 and 3 until your series of but tonholes Is completed.

w ^

step 2

Step 3

Page 76

""'■A

I Spur

COTTIMO BOTTOM

* Place a pin across the cutting space at each

end of the buttonhole to protect bar tacks.

e Use a pair of small, sharp scissors to cut the

button opening.

« Insert blade in center of the buttonhole cut

ting space and cut from this point in either direction.

CORDED SUTTOMHO

Soft threads used for embroidery and crocheting make suitable filler cords for

raised buttonholes. A fine pearl cotton or silk buttonhole twist is generally used.

Inserting Cord in Two-step Buttonhole Foot

3 With foot up, pass a loop of filler cord

around the spur at the back of the foot. Draw ends of cord under the foot and pull taut to secure in spur notches.

Inserting Cord in Two-step Buttonhole Foot

• Hold cord ends, as shown, during stitching.

• Insert cord in buttonhole foot as shown and

sew buttonhole in the usual way.

• Remove work from machine when the but

tonhole is completed.

o Hold end of buttonhole where cord is

looped, with one hand, and pull the loose

ends of the cord firmly to draw the surplus

loop of cord back through the buttonhole. a Trim away ends of cord. a Secure ends of buttonhole threads.

• Cut buttonhole opening in the usual way.

Page 77

fabric hanahng, wnen sewmg tuoular and

hard to reach garment areas, is simplified when you convert your sewing machine to free-arm sewing. Some of the sewing jobs for which you will find the free arm particularly

useful are shown on pages 75 through 78. You will discover many more for yourself. The following simple steps tell you how to convert your machine for free-arm sewing.

To convert to tree-arm sewhng, simply press

down on corner of Flip & Sew panel on sewing machine.

lUTTONHOLES Am BUTTONS

111

liii

i■l

IISiiSlBii

Stitching buttonholes or sewing buttons on a cuff or neckband is no longer a task when the freearm surface is used. Cuffs slip around the sewing surface without being pulled out of shape, so you can see and handle the stitching area easily.

For buttonholing, follow the instructions for two-step buttonholes that start on page 72. Button sewing instruction is given on page 69,

Page 78

SLEEVES

ттшт

Free-arm sewing takes the difficulty out of topstitching a sleeve. The armhole rotates smoothly under the needle so that you can place stitching accurately. The extra control afforded by the free arm Is especially helpful for topstltching flat-fell seams.

Badges, emblems and Insignia of all sizes and shapes can be quickly attached to shirts and uniforms by slipping sleeve or hard-to-reach area over the sewing surface.

7в

Page 79

IBQE FiMSHES

'"-x.

The free-arm surface makes it easy to finish sleeves, pant legs and waistlines. These circular garment areas rotate smoothly around the sewing surface, giving you full visibility and control as you biindstitch hems, attach elastic, or topstitch cuffs.

Page 80

DARNING AND HENDING

Knees, elbows and other areas of wear in children’s clothes, sweaters, jackets and shorts become readily accessible for darning, mending or patching when the free-arm surface is used.

The sewing surface fits inside the enclosed sleeve and leg areas, making it unnecessary to open

seams or roll the garment. For darning, follow the instructions on page 32 and refer to page 58

for mending information.

3ar tacks reinforce areas of strain and can be applied to ready-made garments, as well as to those sewn at home. Use the free-arm surface to avoid fabric bulk around the needle when you

apply this detail to pockets, plackets, and waistlines.

Page 81

Whenever sewing difficulty Is encountered, review the sections of the instruction book that explain the operation you are performing

to make sure you are using the machine cor rectly. If the problem still exists, the following

check list may help you to correct it.

• Needle is fully inserted into needle clamp.

Needle bar does not move. Make sure . . .

® Power and light switch is on. ® Motor is connected to electrical supply. (Turn to page 9 for additional information.)

Needle bar moves but stitch is not formed.

Make sure . . .

• Needle is straight and sharp.

• Needle style is correct for machine. « Needle size is correct for thread being used,

e Machine is correctly threaded.

(Turn to page 6 for additional information.)

s Bobbin contains thread. ® Bobbin latch is in SEW position.

(Turn to page 6 for additional information.) ® P.'esser foot or accessory is securely

fastened to presser bar. (See page 7.)

« Fabric is not being pulled to one side as

work is removed from machine.

® Fabric being guided or supported behind the

needle Is not being pulled too hard or too fast.

(Turn to page 46 for additional information.)

SOBSIN WII^OING DIFFICyLTIES

Turn to page 16 for bobbin winding Informa tion.

Needle thread breaks while winding bobbin. Make sure .. .

® Presser bar Is raised.

• Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose

threads.

® Circuit breaker is depressed. (See page 83.)

(Turn to page 16 for additional Information.)

Needle breaks.

Make sure .. .

♦ Needle is straight and sharp, correct class

for machine, and proper size for thread

being used.

« Thread is unwinding freely from spool. ® Thread spool is secured by correct spool

holder.

• Machine is correctly threaded.

Thread does not wind onto bobbin.

Make sure . . . 6 Bobbin latch is in winding position.

• Thread end is held securely by thumb screw

spring at start of wind.

Page 82

Bobbin displaced during winding.

Make sure . . .

« Bobbin is being wound a! SLOW speed

range,

® Bobbin is properiy seated and secured by

the iatch in the bobbin case.

« Threads are correctly placed under presser

foot when starting to sew, (See page 1 6.)

® Presser foot is securely fastened to presser

bar. (See page 7.)

(Turn to page 7 for accitionai information.)

Bobbin thread breaks.

Thread breaks on sewing starts after winding bobbin.

Make sure . . . ® Bobbin has not been wound too fuH (beyond

the FULL ring). Turn handwheei away from

operator to free over wound bobbin. (See page 16).

o Bobbin case area is free of iint and iocse

threads. (See page 82.)

(Turn to page 16 for bobbin information.)

THREAD BREAKS WHILE SEWIKG

Needle thread breaks.

Make sure . . . ® Machine is properiy threaded. ® Thread is unwinding freeiy from spoci. ® Thread spool is seoured by correct holder.

Make sure . . . «> Bobbin has been correctly wound. ® Bobbin case area Is free of iint. ® Bobbin has been correctly inserted into

bobbin case. ® Bobbin has not been wound too full. (Turn to page 7 for additional Information.)

STITCHII^G OlFFiCOLTIES

Skipped stitches.

Make sure . . .

® Needle is straight and sharp. ♦ Needle Is correct style for machine and size

of thread (See page 12).

« Machine is orooeriy threaded. (See cage

14.)

® Thread is even and free from knots. (Turn to page 14 for additional information.) ® Needle Is correct size for thread. ® Needle Is straight and sharp.

(Turn to page 6 for additional information.

® Needle thread tension is not too tight. (See

page 26.)

« Bobbin is oorrectiy inserted in machine.

(See page 1 7.) ® Bobbin rim is free of nicks. * Needis- plate hole and presser foot are un

damaged.

«> Fabric Is held down firmly (particulariy when

doing free-motlon darning and embroidery),

* Correct presser foot and needle plate are

being used.

Loose stitches on underside of fabric.

Make sure . . .

« Needle is straight and sharp. ® Needle Is correct style for machine and size

for thread (See page 12).

® Sufficient tension is being exerted on nee

dle thread. (See page 26.)

e Bobbin case area is free of lint.

Page 83

e Bobbin has not been wound beyond the

FULL ring.

• Presser bar has been iowered (particulariy when sewing dense fabric or doing free-mo-

tion darning and embroidery).

Correct presser foot is being used. Machine is correctly threaded. (See page

FEEDING DIFFICyLTIES

Loose irregular straight stitches.

Make sure . . . e Needle thread has sufficient tension. (See

page 26.)

« Needle plate and presser foot are correct for

fabric being sewn.

Fabric does not lie flat after stitching.

Make su.^-e - . . 9 Needle-thread tension Is light enough. (See

page 28.)

« There is sufficient presser foot pressure to

hold fabric. (See page 46.)

9 Stitch length is short enough for fabric. (See

page 22.)

Fabric does not move properly under presser

foot.

Make sure . . . 9 P.-esser bar pressure is correct for fabric

being stitched. (See page 46.)

9 Presser foot or accessory Is correctly at

tached to machine. (See page 7.)

9 Lint has not accumulated around feed.

SLUGGISH OR MOiSY yACHINE

Hand wheel difficult to turn over manually or increase in operating noise level.

Make sure . . . 9 Bobbin case and feed area are free of ilnt

and loose thread ends.

Page 84

10. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE

CLEANING THE MACHINE

Caution: Before cleaning your machine, dis connect power-line plug from electrical supply.

With a soft doth or lint brush, dean at pdnis

indicated by arrows.

Your machine requires no oiiing under normai conditions. Your SiNGER representative, or

t!| ...

Olei|

Approved Dealer, will examine the perma

nently lubricated parts whenever your sewing machine requires servicing.

There are no user-serviceable parts in

side the Athena 1200 electronic sewing

machine. Therefore any unauthorized tamper ing inside the machine will void the warranty.

Page 85

CHAMGIMG THE LIGHT BULB

Caution: Before changing Ught bulb make sure

you have disconnected power-line plug from

electrical outlet.

Removing Bulb. With thumb of right hand, push in and down on tab of light lens and lower the light bracket. Do not attempt to

unscrew the bulb. Press it up into the socket

and at the same time turn bulb over in direc

Unlocks

tion shown to unlock the bulb pin.

Caution: Be sure to use a 15 watt bulb only.

Replacing Bulb. Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin entering slot of socket, and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in posi tion. Push entire asserribly up until it snaps in position.

Locks

The electronic system of your miachine is pro tected by a circuit breaker. If the sewing light goes on and the needle bar moves up and down, but you cannot select a pattern, you must push the red circuit breaker button (A) to reaotivate the machine. If your machine is a portable model, carefully lift or tilt it to gain access to the button. Push button in. If your machine is secured to a cabinet, reach under front of cabinet and locate the special hole which gives you access to the button. Push button. Certain cabinet models may not have an access hole. In such instances, release the machine from the cabinet, tilt machine, and push button. Re-secure machine to cabinet. Re-select desired pattern.

Note: If button continues to disengage, con tact your Singer representative or Approved Dealer.

Page 86

special accessories for special jobs

Sewing Aids have been designed to increase the versatiiity of your sewing machine and enable you to give your sewing that extra pro fessional touch. The ones described below

are just a few of the complete selection

available at your local Singer store.

Professional* Buttonhoier No. 381116

The Professional Suttonholer sews six kinds of buttonholes, plus eyelets, In a wide variety of fabrics. You choose the style and length and make perfect buttonholes every time.

Ryffler No. 161561

This accessory offers a simple, effective way to make gathered and pleated ruffles. The ruffler Is used for straight stitching only.

Sisfffc

Page 87

No. 160891

The Quoting foot is especially well adapted to stitching lightly padded fabrics. It is excellent for the placement of straight stitching in

block, floral, or scroll designs. This short,

open foot permits following curved lines with ease and accuracy.

No. 81 200

The binder foot is used to apply ready-made

bias tape or unfolded bias binding to an un

finished edge. It can also be useful for binding seam edges that might ravel.

The Even Feed Foot

The even feed foot is a perfect aid for stitch

ing difficult to match fabrics such as plaids

and stripes and dlfficuli-to-fesd fabrics such as fabrics that have a pile, nap or a shiny sur face. All these fabrics can be sewn without

puckering and slipping.

No. 506415

Page 88

This chart wii! enable you to keep a record of your measurements. For perfect accuracy, ask a friend to

take your measurements.

1. Chest, entire (Take above bust and straight across back)

2. Bust (Take over fuiiest pari of bustiine a.nd straight across back)

3. Shocider length (right) .........................................................................................................

4. Shouider to shoulder (back) (Take from armhole to armhole at shoulder seam)

5. Back width (Take 3"-7cm-to 4"--iocm-below shoulder seam at back armhole)

6. Sackwaist length (Take from neckline to vvaistiine, center).................................................

7. Shoulder to bust, apex..........................................................................................................

S. Shoulder to waist, over apex.................................................................................................

9. Front chest (Take 3" -7cm- dov/n from shoulder at armhole, and from armhole

to armihde)...........................................................................................................................

10. Waistline (Around natural waistline) ......................................................................................

lla. Hipline (Entire. 7" -I7cm- from waistline) ...........................................................................

llb. Hip line (Entire, 9" -22cm- from waistline)

........................................................................

...................................................

.......................................

m..

11b

Page 89

Index

Accessories ............................................................ 3, 4, 5

Appiique

Basting....................................................................... 27. 35

Slincstiich Hem Guice................................................... 4, 55

Blindstitch Hems

Bobbin .............................................................................. 3

Butionhoies

Buttons ........................................................................... 69

Caring for Your Machine Chaining Off

Chainstitching.................................................................. 35

Circuit Breaker ................................................................ 83

Darning Decorative Stitches

Elastic Replacing ............................................................ 59

Electncai Connections ...................................................... 9

Embroidery

Fabric-Handling Table .................................................... 47

Fabric. Thread, and Needle Table

Fabric Weight Table................................................... 10, 11

Finishes for Hems and Facings....................................... 59

Free-Arm Sewing ........................................................... 75

Free-Motion Stitching .................................................... 45

Functional and Decorative Stitches

Guiding and Supporting Fabric ....................................... 46

Individual Preferences ................................................... 21

Light Bulb ....................................................................... S3

Mending........................................................... 58. 63. 78

Mock Overecging

Needle.......................................................................... 3, 6

Needle Plates.............................................. 2, 3. 5, 8, 37

Feed Cover Plate ........................................................... 5

.........................................................................

Chainsiiiching

Pin............................................................................... 27

Speed Basting by Machine.......................................... 27

NewSy Wound............................................................. 29

Raising Bobbin Thread................................................ 19

Removing Bobbin ....................................................... 17

Removing Thread ........................................................ '7

Replacing an Empty Bobbin ....................................... 17

Replacing a Wound Bobbin......................................... 18

Winding

Balancing

Corded Buttonholes..................................................... 74

Series of Buttonholes

............................................................

Changing....................................................................... 6

Threading ................................................................... 15

Thread Tension ..................................................... 26, 40

Chalnstitch Plate and Insert Changing Plates

General Purpose

.............................................................

............................................................

......................................................................

................................................................

...................................................................

.................................................

.................................................................... 36

32, 33, 78

.........................................................

...............................................................

..........................

...........................

............................................................

..............................

..........................................................

.....

..................................................... 3

70-72

33, 45

12, 13

49-63

5. 8, 37 S

Straight-Stitch............................................................... 3

Operating the Machine...................................................... 9

Overecged Seams

Pattern Repeat Button............................................. 2i. 73

Perfor.—iance Checklist Personal Measurements

Power and Light Switch................................................ 2, 9

Presser Feet............................................................ 3, 4, 7

Sutton Foot .............................................................. 4, 7

Buttonhole Foot............................................................. 4

Changing Presser Feet

Darning and Embroidery .Foot

General Purpose

Overedge Foot

Special Purpose Foot

Straight-Stitch Foot ....................................................... 3

Zipper Foot

Pressure Adjustments..................................................... 46

Principal Parts................................................................... 2

Quilting ........................................................................... 34

Reverse Stitching............................................................ 25

Reverse Stitch-Balance................................................... 24

Satin Stitching

Seam Guide.................................................................... 3, 8

Seams ....................................... 20. 29. 31.36. 42. 46

Chalnstitch................................................................... 36

Curved........................................................................ 31

Overedged ................................................................. 42

Straight ....................................................................... 29

Stretch....................................................................... 46

Sea.m Finishes............................................................... 41

Selecting a Stitch............................................................. 20

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric Speed Controller

Spool Holders............................................................... 5. 14

Stitch Centering .............................................................. 48

Stitch Length ............................................................. 22, 28

Stitch Length Guidance Table......................................... 23

Stitch Width .................................................................... 22

Straight Stitching ............................................................ 25

Curved Seam.s........................................................... 31

Reinforcing End of Seam............................................ 31

Straight Seams ........................................................... 30

Turning Square Corners.............................................. 30

Stress Areas ................................................................... 23

Tension Test ................................................................... 26

Th.'eading the Machine........................................... 14,15

Topstitching..................................................................... 66

Twin-Needle Stitching Twin-Needle Switch

Zig-Zag Stitching ............................................................ 40

.........................................................

.................................................

................................................

.................................................

..................................

...........................................................

.....

......................................................... 4

...................................................

.................................................................

.......................................

...........................................................

.....................................................

........................................................

79 86

4, 8

4, 7

2, 9

68 24

Form 2t7-i6 (1177)

Pari ,No. 173314

Page 90

‘A TrsCer^a^K 0? THH SiiNSSR COMPANY

you have any questions, please write to:

The Singer Company

Consumer Affairs Department

321 First Street

Elizabeth. NJ. 07207

Pririte-d in US.A,

SINGER 1200 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

Congratulations ...

1. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR MACHINE

accessories

ETTING READY TO S

operating machine

%EmmB

,;i,. vilyl.,,..:::,,,.

i‘R|isi[fhih^

llll'righiiphliPi^

wmmuQ THE bobbiu

Preparation Steps

Winding Steps

■ ¡rani bing'p

РАттЕшы шРЕт вттоп

pmpmmon

applications

With Accessoriest

cmmsTiTcmuQ

0 I G

Starting and Chaining Off

Beleasiog the Chain from the Machine

o o\

cnmmuQ sTi

SATIN STITCNING

Adjusting Stitch Length for Satin Stitching

Adjusting Tension for Satin Stitching

Hettiod 2

FLOWER EliBROIOERY

6. MACHINE STITCH PATTERNS

adjusting stitches

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

handling special fabrics

stitch centerint

stitch usage: functional and decorative

FEATHERSTITCH

Patchwork Qyiltirtg

Procedyre:

Paris Point Hemstitcliing

Fririged Edges

OVEmDQE STRETCH STITCH

Overedged Seams

Method 1

Method 2

Blifidstitcli Hems

:liyLTI-STiTCH ZIG-2A0 ■

lending a Tear

Adjysting Heversc Stitches

Procedyre

ELASTIC STHETCH for STITCH

Stretch Garinent Repair

Lace Insertion

Insertion

ВОВОЕВ OESIOriS

Procedyre

TOPSTITCHING

Two-thread TopstitcNfig

SMOCKIMG

Procedure:

TWIM-NEEDLE STITCHING

Procedyre

ATTACHIMG A BrnrOH

fOnmmB A THREAD SHAHK

Shianki

buttonholes

Stitching a Series of Buttonholes

SLEEVES

special accessories for special jobs