SINGER 1036 User Manual

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cpennveiDUCH

fashion machine 1036

DELUXE FREE-ARM, STRETCH STITCH SEWING MACHINE

enjoy carefree sewing!

CONGRATULATIONS . . .

You are about to discover the pleasure of sewing with your new Creative Touch* sewing machine by SINGER. We know you are eager to get started on a sewing pro

ject . . . but we urge you to become familiar with this book before you begin. It is

designed to help you get the benefit of all the capabilities of your machine. We recommend that you keep the following points in mind:

Hq choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric — if either is the wrong

size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or faulty stitch ing. The Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table on page 7 will help you make a perfect choice.

rlon^t ® blunt needle. If the needle is damaged—or im

properly inserted in the machine — it can cause skipped stitches. See page 6 for instructions.

do follow the instructions on page 8 for threading the machine.

Hqh Y fprget to place the thread properly when you insert a wound bobbin.

Page 11 tells you how to do this.

Wq become familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length (pages 13

and 20), presser-foot pressure (page 12), and thread tension (pages 13 and 20).

HqH Y forget to set the machine for straight stitching at center ( ) nee-

die position when you wind a bobbin (page 9) or use the straightstitch plate and foot (page 2).

Wq remember to place the threads correctly under the presser foot when you

start to sew. (When using zig-zag accessories, hold the thread at back of

the presser foot for the first two or three stitches.) See pages 15 and 35.

Hqii Y £i"ow lint and thread ends to accumulate in the bobbin case area or

^ around the thread retainer. Clean your machine regularly, as in

structed on page 52.

Wq remember that expert, dependable SINGER* service is always available. If

your sewing machine should require maintenance or repair, be sure to call your Singer Sewing Center or Authorized Singer Dealer. You will find the

number listed under SINGER COMPANY in your telephone book.

Above all, do enjoy sewing!

Sew like a pro with your

CPffl71\€ TOUCH'

Fashion machine 103Ó

Overedge stretch stitch on a stretchy knit

Delicate zig-zag stitching on satin

Flawless topstitching on leatherlike fabric

Featherstitching on spandex

CONTENTS

Page

1. Getting to Know Your Machine....................................................................................................... 1

Principal Parts and What They Do............................................................................................... 1

Accessories.................................................................................................................................... 2

2. Getting Ready to Sew ...................................................................................................................... 5

Needles............................................................................................................................................ 6

Choosing Needle and Thread ....................................................................................................... 7

Threading the Machine .................................................................................................................. 8

Changing the Bobbin .................................................................................................................. 10

3. Tips on Straight Stitching............................................................................................................... 12

Adjusting Machine to Your Fabric

Sewing a Seam............................................................................................................................. 14

4. All About Zig-Zag Stitching ........................................................................................................... 18

How Stitches are Produced......................................................................................................... 18

Adjusting Stitch Balance When Using Flexi-Stitch Patterns

5. Twin-Needle Stitching .................................................................................................................... 22

Preparation .................................................................................................................................. 22

Threading the Needle................................................................................................................... 22

Twin-Needle Stitch Chart............................................................................................................. 23

...

.......................................................................................... 12

...................................................

6. Buttons and Buttonholes............................................................................................................... 24

Buttons......................................................................................................................................... 24

Buttonholes.................................................................................................................................. 25

7. Sewing the Professional Way ....................................................................................................... 31

Construction Details.................................................................................................................... 31

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric ................................................................................................. 34

Handling Special Fabrics ............................................................................................................ 40

Decorative Touches .................................................................................................................... 42

Keeping Up Appearances............................................................................................................ 46

8. Free-Arm Sewing............................................................................................................................. 48

9. Caring for Your Sewing Machine .................................................................................................. 52

Cleaning the Machine ................................................................................................................. 52

Changing the Light Bulb.............................................................................................................. 53

Performance Checklist ............................................................................................................... 54

10. Sewing Aids.................................................................................................................................... 55

Your Personal Measurements................................................................................................................ 56

Index ........................................................................................................................................................ 58

1- getting to know your machine

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24 25

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—y

principal parts and what they do

1. Console Cover protects against dust, is hinged for easy access to controls.

2. Stitch-balance Dial adjusts balance of Flexi-Stitch patterns and buttonholes.

3. Pattern-selector Release Lever unlocks

the pattern selecter.

4. Pattern Selector controls pointer on stitch panel.

5. Stitch-width Dial controls zig-zag stitch

width.

6. Needle-position Ring places needle in

either J„ (left), (center),

or (right) stitching position.

7. Stitch Pattern Panel pictures stitches and allows for quick selection.

8. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.

9. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric.

18. Zig-zag Plate secured by magnets. Guidelines on right and left sides help you keep seams straight.

19. Soft-touch Feed moves fabric under presser foot. Soft surface does not injure fabric, even the most delicate.

20. Bobbin Latch allows you to switch from sewing to bobbin winding without remov

ing bobbin.

21. Transparent Bobbin shows thread supply.

22. Slide Plate has a window to show bobbin thread supply at a glance.

23. Needle Clamp holds single and twin nee dles. It is designed to eliminate the

possibility of inserting needle back

wards.

24. Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch, thread and fabric.

10. Rear Thread Guide holds needle thread firmly in place while sewing.

11. Snap-in Thread Guidepost eliminates

possible tangling of thread.

12. Presser-foot Lifter, at back of machine,

allows you to raise and lower the presser foot.

13. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for

safety and convenience.

14. Buttonhole Lever sets the machine for

buttonholing.

15. Thread Guides

16. Zig-zag Foot holds fabric against feed.

17. F//p & Sew* Panel converts machine for

free-arm sewing.

25. Built-in Sewing Light illuminates sewing area.

26. Stitch-length Dial allows for a variety of stitch lengths. To reverse stitching,

press dial all the way down and hold in place.

27. Electrical Connections and Speed Con troller

28. Power and Light Switch turns on the

machine and the sewing light simultaneously.

29. Hand Wheel controls movement of take-

up lever and needle.

30. Friction-free Spool Holder, with horizon

tal pin holds spools of various sizes.

j V V V

accessories

The accessories that come with your sewing

machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily.

1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 181551)

2. Needles . ..

• Style 2020 for all-purpose sewing.

• Style 2045 for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic.

• Style 2025t for twin-needle decorative stitching.

3. Zig-Zag Foot and Zig-Zag Plate, on your machine when delivered. Use them for aiternating between straight and zig-zag stitching as well as utility zig-zag sewing.

They can also be used for straight-stitch

ing firm fabrics. Numbers on piate indi

cate distance from needle in eighths of an inch from center needle position.

4. Straight-stitch Foot and Straight-stitch Plate. Use these when your fabric or

sewing procedure requires close control.

Numbers on plate indicate distance from needle in eighths of an inch.

These accessories, recommended for all

straight-stitch sewing, are especialiy

helpful for edge stitching and collar pointing, or for stitching delicate or spongy fabrics.

5. Special-purpose Foot. Use this for ail kinds of decorative stitching.

6. Button Foot hoids most flat buttons securely for fastening.

7. One-Step Buttonhole Foot aiiows you to

stitch a complete buttonhole up to 1 -1 /2

inches in a single step. It determines the correct buttonhole length, either by plac ing button in foot or by using gauge iines.

tCAUTION: Use this needle with the zig-zag

plate and zig-zag foot or special-purpose foot

only. Do not use any other accessories with

this needle as needle breakage will occur.

8. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the zig-zag foot to position and guide the

hem.

9. Detachable Spool Pin for decorative twin-needle stitching and two-thread topstitching.

10. Large Spool Holder on your machine when delivered. For use with medium and

large spools of thread.

11. Small Spool Holder for use with small diameter tubes of thread.

12. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams.

13. Lint Brush for cleaning your sewing

machine.

14. Feed Cover Plate for button sewing and

free-motion work.

CHANGING PRESSER FEET Snap-on Presser Feet

Most of the presser feet furnished with your machine snap on and off a common shank.

1. Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. Raise presser foot.

3. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as it will go) and then snap down to remove.

4. Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so that the shank fits over the presser-foot pin.

5. Press presser-foot screw down until foot snaps into place.

To remove and replace the shank of snap-on

presser feet, follow instructions below for one-piece presser feet.

Changing One-Piece Presser Foot

One-Piece Presser Feet

1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot.

2. Loosen presser foot screw and remove the

foot guiding it to the right.

3. Hootc new foot around the presser bar and tighten presser foot screw.

CHANGING PLATES

(Note: Remove bobbin if it contains thread in

order to prevent thread being caught when

plate is replaced.)

1. Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. Raise presser foot.

3. Open slide plate. Press down on front edge

of plate and lift up and out.

4. Position new plate over pins and release. Plate is drawn into position by magnets.

5. Close slide plate.

2. GETTING READY TO SEW

CONNECTING MACHINE

Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number of amperes indicated at the right end of the machine, conform to your electrical power supply.

\"'"r / \ I I

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..............................................

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...

• Push the machine plug into the machine socket.

• Connect the power-line plug to your electri cal outlet.

OPERATING MACHINE

To turn on the machine and sewing light, and set speed range, set the power and light switch in the selected range.

• The MIN. setting A (switch pressed in half way) allows for maximum control. Use this setting for special jobs where intricate con struction details require close control. The speed range this setting provides is ap propriate for almost all of your sewing needs.

• The MAX. setting B (switch pressed in all the way) allows for full speed capacity of the

machine. It is best for long, straight seams,

and easy to handle fabrics.

OFF A

Power and Light Switch

To run the machine, press the foot or knee

speed controller. The harder you press, the

faster the machine will sew within the

selected speed range. The lighter you press,

the slower the machine will sew within the

selected speed range.

CAUTION: Switch off the power and light switch when changing needles, feet or needle

plates or when leaving the machine unattended.

This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.

Connecting and Operating Machine

style 2020

Regular Needle

Style 2045

Ball Point

Yellow Band Needle

Style 2025

Twin-Needle

needles

The needle you use should be straight and not bent to ensure perfect stitch formation and needle penetration through the fabric. The needle should also be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred \with large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric \without being bent or defiected. Remember, too, that the eye of the needle must be large enough for the thread to pass through freely: too fine a needle \will cause the thread to fray.

IMPORTANT: Your SINGER se\wing machine

has been designed to obtain best results \with

SINGER* needles. You should follo\w the

recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package for correct style and size of needle for different types and \weights of fabric.

• Style 2020 (15x1) needles, for all-purpose

se\wlng.

To Hold Small Spools

To Hold Small Tubes

To Hold Large Spools

• Style 2045 ball-point Yellow Band* needles, for se\wing synthetic knits and stretch fabrics.

• Style 2025 needle, for t\win-needle decora tive stitching.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

1. Raise needle to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle-

clamp scre\w, and remove the needle.

2. Insert new needle in clamp, \with the flat side of the needle to the back; push it up as far as it \will go.

3. Tighten needle-clamp scre\w.

SPOOL HOLDER

Place spool or tube of thread on horizontal spool pin. If spool has a retaining slit, the slit should be placed against the spool cushion to the right. Select correct spool holder accord

ing to the type and diameter of spool being used. The diameter of the end of the spool

holder should al\ways be larger than that of the spool itself. Press holder firmly against spool to prevent it from turning.

choosing needle and thread

The needle and thread you choose will depend

upon the fabric being stitched. The table be low is a practical guide to needle and thread

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE

selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.

FABRIC WEIGHT AND TYPE

DELICATE — tulle, chiffon,

ganza, chiffon velvet

LIGHTWEIGHT — batiste, organdy, voile,

taffeta, crepe, chiffon velvet, plastic film, satin, surah, peau de soie, shantung, brocade

MEDIUM WEIGHT — gingham, seersucker,

madras, percale, piqué, linen, chintz, faille, fine corduroy, velveteen, suitings, vinyl, terry cloth, challis, twill

MEDIUM HEAVY — gabardine, tweed, sail

cloth, duck, denim, coatings, drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile fabrics, corduroy, bonded fabric

HEAVY — overcoatings, upholstery fabrics,

canvas

KNITS, WOVEN STRETCH AND ELASTIC-

double knits, bonded knits, spandex, ny

lon tricot, ciré tricot, jersey, panné velvet,

stretch terry

LEATHER — suede, kidskin, calf, capeskin,

buckskin, cabretta, patent, cobra, lined

leathers, simulated leathers

VINYLS (KNIT BACK)-suede, imitation

reptile, crinkle patent, patent, embossed

and printed vinyls

WOVEN FABRICS (ALL WEIGHTS) - dec

orative straight-stitch topstitching

LIGHT AND MEDIUM WEIGHTS (WOVEN) -

decorative twin-needle stitching

fine lace, or-

THREAD

Fine polyester, nylon,

or cotton thread Cotton-wrapped

polyester (FINE)

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

“A” nylon

“A" silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

60 cotton

“A” silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

Heavy-duty

mercerized cotton

40 to 60 cotton

Cotton-wrapped polyester

Heavy-duty

mercerized cotton

40 cotton

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

“A” nylon

50 mercerized cotton

“A” silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

“A” nylon

“A” silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

“A” nylon

“A” silk

“D” silktt

(Buttonhole twist)

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

NEEDLES

TYPE SIZE

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1) "

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2045

Ball Point

Yellow Band

Style 2032

(15x2)

Style 2045

Ball Point

Yellow Band

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2025

(twin)

16 18

tSize 9 needle recommended for sewing only. For bobbin winding, use larger size needle.

ttUse with mercerized cotton, “A” silk, or polyester thread in bobbin.

threading the machine

THREADING

• Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise

presser foot to release the tension discs.

1. Lead thread from spool holder and snap it

down into thread guidepost A.

2. Raise console cover and thread the rear thread

guide by holding thread in left hand and guiding it over wing B and into channel C.

3. Draw thread firmly between tension discs,

down right-hand channel, and up left-hand channel.

4. Thread take-up lever D by guiding thread down over top of lever and then up into eyelet.

5. Lead thread from take-up lever down into left channel and then into lower thread guides E and F.

• Thread the needle from front to back and

draw about 4 inches (10cm) of thread through eye of needle. A needle threader

may be purchased separately at your local

Singer Sewing Center.

WINDING THE BOBBIN

You will find a bobbin in place under the slide

plate of your machine. (To open slide plate,

simply draw it gently toward you.) If the bobbin

runs out of thread during sewing, you can re wind it without removing it from the machine.

The window in the slide plate lets you see

bobbin-thread supply at a glance, to help avoid running out of thread in the middle of a seam.

Preparation Steps

1. Raise the take-up lever to Its highest posi tion by pressing lightly on the speed con

troller or by turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. Raise the presser foot to release tension discs.

3. Open slide plate and make sure bobbin is empty. For removal of bobbin and thread,

see page 10.

4. Set pattern-selector release lever by turn

ing it clockwise, see page 1 2, and set stitch control dials for straight stitching: stitch pattern I , needle position/^(center) and stitch width.

Winding Steps

If pattern-selector release lever fails to lock into place, turn the hand wheel slightly toward

you and then reset lever.

Winding Steps

1. Move bobbin latch to right (wind position).

2. Draw needle thread back between toes of presser foot, under left side of presser foot,

then up, into and around thread retainer, as shown. Do not hold thread end. Start the

machine, running it at a moderate speed.

3. Pull thread end away after it has separated

from bobbin.

• Keep your eye on the bobbin as it fills. Do not allow thread to wind beyond the outside FULL ring.

4. Close slide plate to release bobbin latch to sewing position.

To start sewing, pull thread back under

presser foot and cut. Place threads diagonally under foot to right or left side, position needle in fabric where desired, lower presser foot, and start machine.

DO NOT ALLOW

THREAD TO WIND BEYOND FULL RING

Step 4

Cutting Continuous Thread

Removing Bobbin

changing the bobbin

REMOVING THE BOBBIN

Open Slide Plate and Move Bobbin Latch to Left

Replacing Empty Bobbin

Thread Slot

_ MkS

Raise take-up iever to its highest position.

1. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch to left.

2. Remove bobbin by inserting fingernail un der rim of bobbin.

REPLACING AN EMPTY BOBBIN

1. Slip bobbin (slot on top) into bobbin case.

Slip Bobbin into Case

M'jiH

Move Bobbin Latch to Right ' '< (Wind Position) '

i j

2. Move bobbin latch to right (wind position).

3. Leave slide plate open until you have fin ished winding the bobbin.

REMOVING THREAD FROM BOBBIN

You can leave the bobbin in place while re

moving thread. With slide plate closed, pull thread end through the plate with a steady motion. Do not pull the thread across the feed as this may damage it.

REPLACING A WOUND BOBBIN

Raise take-up lever to its highest position.

1. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch all the way to the left.

2. Draw about an inch of thread from bobbin and place bobbin in case.

3. Pull thread into bobbin-case slot (point 1), draw it under flat spring and around to (or slightly past) point 2, leaving two or three

inches of free thread. (Leave slide plate

open.)

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD

Set stitch width dial at .

1. Move bobbin latch to right (sewing posi tion). Hold needle thread lightly with left

hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward

you so the needle enters plate.

2. Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises. Tighten

your hold on the needle thread and bring

up bobbin thread in a loop.

3. Open the loop with your fingers, draw nee dle and bobbin threads under the presser foot and place them diagonally to right or

left. Then close the slide plate.

Replacing a Wound Bobbin

•-1*

Insert Bobbin

Pull Thread into Slot 1

Flat Spring

Draw Thread Under Flat Spring Around to Point 2

Raising the Bobbin Thread

Step 2

Step 3

3. TIPS ON STRAIGHT STITCHING

adjusting machine to your fabric

Straight-Stitch Settings

NeedlePosition Ring

SETTING CONTROLS

1. Set pattern-selector release lever by turn ing it clocktA/ise until it locks in place. If

lever fails to lock, turn hand tA/heel slightly and reset lever.

NOTE: Do not attempt to turn pattern-

seiector reiease iever after it is iocked in

piece, it repositions itseif when you start

the machine or turn the hand wheei.

2. Turn pattern-selector dial until stitch-panel pointer is above | setting.

3. Turn stitch \A/idth dial to and turn needle

position ring to (center).

4. Attach straight-stitch foot and straightstitch plate (see page 4).

NOTE: When aiternating between straight and zig-zag stitching use the zig-zag foot and zig zag piate, and set pattern seiector on zig-zag setting I .

A X.

Pressure Dial

REGULATING PRESSURE

The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric. The NORM (normal) setting can be used for sew-

ing a \A/ide variety of fabrics of different \A/eight

and texture. Intermediate settings, above and

belo\A/ NORM, are also provided. Generally iighter than normai pressure is best for heavy or dense fabrics. See page 35 for adjusting

pressure \A/hen se\A/ing knits.

Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.

D A R

• To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM

to\A/ard MAX.

• To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM

to\A/ard DARN.

• For darning, set dial on DARN.

REGULATING NEEDLE-THREAD

TENSION

The tension dial regulates the degree of ten sion on your needle thread and lets you select just the right setting for your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams. To find the correct tension setting, make a test on a

sample of your fabric. If the fabric puckers or

the bobbin thread is pulled to the fabric sur

face, decrease tension. If the surface or under side stitches look loose, increase tension.

• To increase tension, turn dial to a higher

number.

• To decrease tension turn dial to a lower

number.

Regulating Needle-thread Tension

NOTE: The tension dial controls needle-thread

tension only. Bobbin-thread tension has been

correctly set at the factory, and you do not

need to adjust it.

SETTING STITCH LENGTH

The stitch-length dial regulates the length of both straight and zig-zag stitches. The num bers 6 to 20 represent the number of straight stitches per inch: the higher the number, the shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches

are best for lightweight fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. Curved seams, bias-cut seams, and scallops require short straight stitches

(15 to 20) for elasticity and smooth contours.

Bound buttonholes should be sewn with a

short stitch for durability and strength.

• To set stitch length, turn dial to setting

desired.

• For reverse stitching, press dial all the way

down and hold in place.

Pin Placement When Seam Guide is Used

sewing a seam

PIN BASTING

Pin basting is a time saver and can be used when you sew easy-to-handie fabric. Use fine pins and piace them so that:

• They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching

line.

• They do not extend under both sides of the presser foot. Never place pins on the under

side of the fabric in contact with the feed.

• Sew, pulling pins out of fabric as you stitch.

We do not recommend sewing over pins.

PLACING FABRIC

Most fabric can be placed under the presser

foot by raising the presser-foot lifter to its up

position. When placing bulky fabrics, such as

coating, knit or terry cloth, or several fabric

layers, raise the presser-foot lifter to its high

position and make sure needle is at its highest point. Hold lifter in position (since it does not lock) while placing fabric under the presser

foot. Make sure the lifter is all the way down

before starting to sew.

Presser-foot Lifter Settings

STARTING THE SEAM

Always test-stitch seams on fabric scraps before stitching your garment. This will ena ble you to get the feel of handling the fabric. Aiso, it wiii indicate whether tension, pres sure, stitch length, needle and thread are cor rect.

To avoid tangled threads on the underside of

the fabric, it is important to start and end seams carefuily.

• Raise the take-up iever to its highest posi tion by turning the hand wheei toward you or

pressing iightly on the speed controlier. Raise presser foot.

• Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot and place them diagonally to right.

• Hold thread ends and with a iight touch on

the speed controlier or by turning the hand wheei toward you, position needle in fabric about V2 inch from fabric edge.

Draw Threads Under Foot

• Lower the presser foot.

• Press stitch-iength dial all the way down and hold in place.

• Start machine and backstitch to edge of

fabric. (Do not sew beyond edge of fabric.)

• Release the stitch-length dial and sew in

forward direction.

Using Guidelines

Stitching Line-

Pivoting at Corner

KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT

To keep the seann straight, use one of the

Mil \

543 ^ 3456 :■ \

-1/2"

nunnbered guidelines on the plate. The num bers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch, from the needle. If you want a 5/8-inch seam,

■3/4"

■ 5/8 ”

for example, line up your fabric with the num ber 5 guideline. Note that both numiber 5 guidelines (the most commonly used) are ex tended on the slide plate for your conve

nience; the crosslines serve as guides when stitching a square corner.

For extra help in keeping the seam straight, you may wish to use the seam guide available for separate purchase at your Singer Sewing Center. Because it allows you to guide stitches evenly between 1/8-inch and 1-1/4

inches from the fabric edge, it is particularly

useful for very narrow or very wide seams.

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS

To turn a square corner 5/8-inch from the fabric edge, you need not measure or mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the

slide plate.

• Line up your fabric with right or left guideline 5 on the plate. Stitch seam, slow ing speed as you approach corner.

• Stop stitching, with the needle down, when the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the cornering crosslines on the slide plate.

• Raise presser foot slightly and turn fabric on needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.

• Lower the presser foot and stitch in new direction.

Fabric after Turning

CURVED SEAMS

1. Use a short stitch for elasticity and strength. For example, if you use 12

stitches to the inch for straight seams,

select 15 to 20 stitches per inch to stitch

curved seams in the same fabric.

2. If you use the seam guide, available for separate purchase at your Singer Sewing Center, attach it at an angle so that the

edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide.

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

1. Stitch to the edge of the fabric. (Do not sew beyond edge of fabric.)

2. Press stitch-length dial all the way down and hold in place. Backstitch approx imately 1/2-inch to reinforce end of seam. Reiease stitch-length dial.

3. Raise take-up lever to its highest position

and raise presser foot. Remove the fabric

by drawing it to the back and left.

4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of presser bar.

Reverse Stitching

stitching a Curved Seam

4. ALL ABOUT ZIG-ZAG STITCHING

how stitches are produced

All stitches are produced by discs. Fashion Stitch discs control the side-to-side move ment of the needle; Flexi-Stitch discs control both the side-to-side movement of the needle and the back-and-forth movement of the feed.

Your sewing machine has eleven built-in discs. These discs can produce five Fashion Stitch patterns (white), and five Flexi-Stitch

patterns (yellow), and a straight stitch.

In addition to the obviously decorative uses of

the stitch patterns, some serve very practical

purposes. In the section called “Sewing the Professional Way,” beginning on page 31, you

will find instructions for both decorative and

practical uses of these patterns.

built-in stitches

The eleven discs built into your sewing machine produce the stitches illustrated

needle work.

Plain Zig-Zag Stitch. Used for general-pur

pose stretch sewing, buttonholes, attaching buttons, bar tacks, and appliqué.

Straight Stitch. For seaming and speed bast

ing.

/\ / \ /\ /\ Z'' Z\ Z \ /\ /

/ \ Z \Z \Z NZ \Z \ Z \Z \Z

ZVVVVVN/VV

A A

Multi-stitch Zig-Zag. Lets you mend, join, and

reinforce without bulk.

VAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Ribbon Stitch. A decorative pattern for single-

and twin-needle work.

Blindstitch. Indispensable for finishing hems. Icicle Stitch. Perfect for ornamental borders

and edges.

Featherstitch. Extremely versatile. Use it for

stretchable straight-stitch seams in knit and stretch fabrics and for fagoting, embroidering, and quilting.

Honeycomb Stitch. Ideal for smocking and

useful for mending, overcasting, and attaching

elastic and stretch lace.

Leaf Stitch. For decorative stitching. Overedge Stretch Stitch. Used for joining and

overedging seams in knit and stretch fabrics

in one operation.

SETTING PATTERN SELECTOR

Turn pattern-selector release lever toward you until it locks in place. Then turn pattern

selector until pointer on panel is above desired stitch.

NOTE: If pattern-selector release lever fails

to lock, turn hand wheel slightly toward you and reset lever. Do not attempt to turn the

release lever after It is locked in place. It will

reposition itself when you start the machine or

turn hand wheel.

ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT

Needle-position setting places the nee

dle in center stitching position. Settings

and J, place the needle in left and right

stitching position at stitch widths less than 5.

Pattern Selector

Setting Pattern Selector

Pattern-Selector Release Lever

Center setting is used most often. Right

J. is required for buttonholing and left J*for button sewing or J, setting can be used for placing narrow zig-zag stitching to the left or right of center in decorative work.

To set needle position, turn ring until desired

setting is aligned with indicator line on ring.

Left Center Right

Adjusting Stitch Piacement

Adjusting Width

ADJUSTING STITCH WIDTH

To produce a zig-zag stitch, turn the stitch-

width dial to any setting between 1 and 5. The higher the number, the wider the stitch.

ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION

Generally, zig-zag stitching at open stitch lengths requires the same needle-thread ten sion as straight stitching. Flexi-Stitch patterns, however, may require more needle-thread tension than Fashion Stitch patterns. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you

plan to use so that you can adjust the tension

to suit the stitch you have chosen. The stitches

should lie flat against the fabric without caus

ing the fabric to pucker. If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is

puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by

turning the tension dial to a lower number.

For tension adjustment of Fashion Stitch pat

terns at satin-stitch length, turn to page 42.

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

For Fashion Stitch Patterns

Any stitch length setting from 6 to 20 will give

you an open zig-zag stitch of the pattern you select. The lower the number, the more open,

or farther apart, your stitches will be. The

symbol on the dial above 20 designates the

FINE stitch area and is used for adjusting satin

stitching (see page 42 for specific instruc

tions).

For Flexi-Stitch Patterns

When you use a Flexi-Stitch pattern, set the stitch length dial in the 6 to 8 area indicated

by the yellow band. The higher the number,

the shorter your stitches will be. Dial numbers

in this case do not represent length of stitches per inch.

Stitching cannot be reversed when using a Flexi-Stitch pattern.

adjusting stitch balance

when using Flexi-Stitch patterns

When using a Flexi-Stitch pattern, you may

need to adjust the stitch-balance dial to cor

rect the appearance of the stitch.

Before yoju move the stitch-balance dial from its neutral position, make a test sample. If ad justment is required, stitch slowly and move the stitch-balance dial as you sew.

I AAAA-^

Stitch-Balance Dial

Incorrect

<WVV<<<<<<

Turn the dial slowly to left {*nm symbol) to Turn the dial slowly to right (AAM-symbol) to

bring forward and reverse stitches of the separate forward and reverse stitches of the pattern together. pattern.

•<<V<<<<<<<<fV^<66iV^

Correct

Incorrect

5. TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING

By using a twin needle, you can produce simultaneously two parallel, closely spaced

lines of straight or zig-zag stitching. Effective for decoration, twin-needle stitching is not recommended for seams or for use on knits. Soft fabrics should be sewn with a paper or fabric backing.

preparation

1. Clip detachable spool pin to guide post as

shown.

2. Thread machine as instructed on page 8, making certain thread passes on right side of tension disc.

3. Wind bobbin with enough thread to com plete stitching. (Since a bobbin cannot be filled after a twin needle is inserted, it is wise to keep an extra wound bobbin at

hand for replacement.)

NOTE: When inserting a previousiy wound bobbin, foiiow the instructions on page 11.

4. Close slide plate and raise bobbin thread.

5. Cut thread about four inches from needle, and unthread the needle.

6. Remove the- single needle and insert the twin needle.

threading the needie

1. Pass thread through right eye of needle.

2. Place spool of thread on detachable spool

pin and thread machine as for one-needle stitching except:

• Pass thread on left side of tension disc.

• Thread through remaining points making certain to omit the thread guide above the needle and pass thread through left eye

of needle.

twin-needle stitch chart

To produce patterns

at right, use settings, discs and accessories shown below.

tSew this stitch with

a paper backing.

Stitch Pattern

Stitch Width'*"*’

‘V

0 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5

2.5

Needle Position

Stitch Length

Presser Foot

Plate

Speed Setting

ttCAUTION: Do not use a stitch width greater than 2.5 when sewing with twin-needle.

A wider stitch will result In needle breakage.

Zig-Zag

Zig-Zag Zig-Zag

MIN

A A

FINE

Special

Purpose

MIN

Special

Purpose

Zig-Zag

FINE

MIN

(yellow)

Special

Purpose

Zig-Zag Zig-Zag Zig-Zag

MIN MIN

10-20

Special

Purpose

(yellow)

Special

Purpose

MIN

6. BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES

buttons

• Stitch: Plain Zig-Zag j

• Stitch Width: 0 and 4

• Needle Position:

• Feed Cover Plate (See page 4 for attaching)

• Button Foot

The space between the holes in the button de

termines stitch-width settings. The 0 setting

must always be used to position the button

and to fasten stitching. For buttons with stand

ard hole spacing, settings 0 and 4 are usually satisfactory. For buttons with unusual hole spacing, use setting 0 and increase or de

crease the width setting (4) as necessary.

1. Position button under button foot and lower

the needle into center of left hole. Lower the foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until the needle rises out of the button and is just above the foot.

Attaching a Button

Pull Needle Threads

to Back of Button

Forming Thread Shank

Thread Shank Completed

2. Set stitch width at 4. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle is just above the right hole. Increase or decrease stitch width, if required, so that needle will enter the right hole of button. Take six or more zig-zag stitches at this setting, ending on left side.

3. To fasten stitching, return to stitch-width setting 0 and take about three stitches.

FORMING A THREAD SHANK

Buttons sewn on coats and jackets should have a thread shank to make them stand away

from the fabric. To form a thread shank, sew

over the blade of a regular machine needle.

• Position button and lower button foot. Place needle in groove of foot so that point enters the hole in the foot. The farther in you push the needle, the longer the shank will be.

• After stitching, remove needle from groove. Remove work from under presser foot, cut ting threads about six inches from fabric. Pull needle-thread ends to back of button and form a firm shank between button and

fabric by winding threads tightly around at taching stitches. Tie thread ends securely.

buttonholes

Most fabrics are suitable for machinestitched buttonholes. If the suitability of the fabric is in doubt, make a test buttonhole in a sample of your fabric, being sure to duplicate the thicknesses of your garment, and include an interfacing.

The built-in buttonhole system of your

machine allows you to stitch a complete but tonhole up to IV2 inches in a single step. To

make sure the measurement is correct, and for buttons of irregular shape, cut a slit in a scrap of your fabric approximately the width of the button you intend to use, and increase

length of opening until button slips through easily.

BUTTONHOLE POSITION

Accurate guidelines are essential to keep but tonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment, evenly spaced, and on the grain of the material.

Finished Edge of Garment

1. Mark center line of garment as indicated on your pattern. This guideline can be

made by hand basting and should follow a lengthwise fabric thread.

2. Mark a guideline for each buttonhole. Fabrics may be marked lightly with tailor’s

chalk.

a Horizontal buttonholes are placed to extend

Vs inch, beyond the center line of the gar ment, as shown, so that the buttons will be in the center of the figure when the gar ment is fastened.

9 Horizontai buttonhole guidelines should

follow a crosswise fabric thread and be

longer than the finished length of the but

tonhole. Mark ends of each buttonhole ver tically.

• Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the

center line of the garment is in the center of the buttonhole, as shown.

• Mark the ends of each buttonhole horizon

tally across the center line basting and use the center line marking as the buttonhole guide when stitching.

Horizontal Placement on Crosswise Grain

Vertical Placement on Lengthwise Grain

ONE-STEP BUTTONHOLES

The One-step Buttonhole Foot allows you to stitch complete buttonholes for buttons up to

1-1/2 inches in a single step. NOTE; See page 28 in reference to stitching

complete buttonholes and stitch balance.

Red symbols indicate buttonhole settings

• Stitch; Buttonhole ||

• Stitch Width: Red | (approximately! to 2)

• Needle Position: J,

stitch Pattern

• Stitch Length: Within

• Stitch Balance: Neutral

• Speed: MIN

• Zig-Zag Plate

• One-step Buttonhole Foot

Preparation

1. Fill bobbin with enough thread to complete buttonholes. The bobbin cannot be conve niently filled after the buttonhole foot is at tached.

2. Attach the zig-zag plate and one-step but tonhole foot. Then pull down buttonhole lever.

• To attach one-step buttonhole foot, place

buttonhole foot behind the needle, then guide it forward. Center the foot under the shank and lower the presser foot lifter so that the shank fits over the presser foot pin. Press presser foot screw down firmly until foot snaps into place.

I A/w\-^

Stitch Balance

Stitch

/ Length

3. Set all dials on red symbols as illustrated. Set the stitch-length dial midway between 6 and 1 2 in the buttonhole area. Use this setting for your test buttonhole and then in crease it or decrease it as necessary. See page 28.

4. Set stitch-balance dial in neutral position. Adjust if necessary to balance stitch den sity on right and left sides of the but tonhole. See page 28.

Procedure

• Place the button you intend to use on the button carrier of the one-step buttonhole foot and slide clamp toward back to secure button. For use without a button, set the clamp with the gauge lines on the carrier. See page 29.

• Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot to back of machine.

« Place garment between foot and underpiate.

Align buttonhole guideline markings with the red guidelines on the foot. Lower foot.

• Press buttonhole lever toward you.

• Start machine and let it stitch the entire but

tonhole. Maintain an even sewing speed

(and use the same rate of speed for each buttonhole you sew).

« Stop machine when stitching starts to over

lap the starting bar tack. Move stitch-width dial to /6\ setting and take one or two fastening stitches.

Place Button on Carrier

• Remove work from machine, clip thread ends, and cut button opening. For additional information on the cutting of button open ings, refer to page 30. If necessary, reset stitch-width dial on red | for next but

tonhole.

When buttonholes are completed, push but tonhole lever up into machine and reset dials for regular sewing. To remove buttonhole foot

press down on the button carrier on both sides

of the presser foot shank.

Turn to page 28 for information about adjusting

test buttonhole.

i //

Engaging Buttonhole Lever

Stitching Complete Buttonholes

Whenever you make a buttonhole, be sure to stitch it all the way around (to complete stitch

ing cycle) before re-setting the buttonhole lever for a new start.

If you make a false start when sewing a button

hole in your garment, simply remove the work and complete the buttonhole stitching on scrap fabric.

Adjusting Stitch Length

BUTTONHOLE ADJUSTMENTS Adj'usting Stitch Length

Buttonhole stitch length is regulated by the stitch-length dial. Set it to suit your fabric within the red bracketed area. Generally, short

stitches are best for lightweight, woven fabric;

longer ones for heavier fabric and knits. Set dial in center of buttonhole symbol for your test buttonhole.

• For shorter stitches, turn the dial toward setting 15.

• For longer stitches, turn the dial toward setting 6.

Adj'usting Stitch Balance

Stitch density on right and left sides of the buttonhole is balanced with the stitch-balance dial. A slight movement of the dial produces a

noticeable change in density.

Adjusting Stitch Balance

• If the stitches on the LEFT side of the but tonhole are too dense, turn the balance dial to the right (ww\->symbol) to give equal den sity to both sides of the buttonhole.

Turning dial to right opens left side and closes

right side.

• If the stitches on the LEFT side of the button

hole are too open, turn the balance dial to the left symbol) to give equal density to both sides of the buttonhole.

Turning dial to left closes left side and opens

right side.

Adjusting Width of Button Opening

The width of the button opening is regulated

by the stitch-width dial.

• To make button opening wider, turn dial very slightly toward the 1 setting.

• To make button opening narrower, turn dial very slightly toward the 2 setting.

Adjusting Length of Button Opening

The length of the button opening in one-step

buttonholes is controlled by the button-carrier clamp. If the button will not pass through the button opening of your test buttonhole, remove the button from the carrier and slide clamp for ward to a new setting. Use the gauge lines (Ve

inch apart) on the carrier to set length and

stitch buttonhole without a button in the car

rier.

Adjusting Width of Button Opening

Gauge Lines

Button Carrier Clamp

Adjusting Length of Button Opening When Using One-step Foot

step 2

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Corded or raised buttonholes are made by stitching over a filler cord. Embroidery or crochet threads make good filler cords, but double strands of sewing thread or a sew-off chain of needle and bobbin thread may also be used.

Inserting Cord in One-step Buttonhole Foot

• Raise foot. Hold filler cord in both hands, and insert it between foot and underplate,

from left side (the side opposite underplate

tab). Insert one end of the filler cord in the right notch in front of foot. Lead cord back under foot and loop it up and over the cord

spur from right to left.

• Bring cord forward, between foot and under plate, and secure end in left notch.

Procedure

Inserting Cord in One-step Buttonhole Foot

• Insert cord in buttonhole foot as shown and sew buttonhole in the usual way (see page

27 for one-step buttonholes).

• When stitching is completed, release cord from foot and remove work by drawing it to

the back of the machine.

• Draw the loop of filler cord into the but tonhole stitching by holding fabric at the starting end of the buttonhole with one hand and pulling ends of filler cord firmly with the other.

• Trim ends of filler cord. Cut button opening.

CUTTING BUTTON OPENING

Before cutting button opening, place a pin

across the cutting space at each end of the

buttonhole to protect the bar tacks. Using a

pair of small scissors, insert blade in center of cutting space and cut from this point in both directions. Slip button through opening of

test buttonhole to check length. For informa

tion on adjusting buttonhole length, refer to

page 29.

7. SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY

construction details

ZIPPERS

At the notions counter in your Singer Sewing Center, you wiil find many different kinds of zippers, one of which wili be just right for whatever you wish to sew. How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of garment and the location of the zipper. The zipper package wili contain easy-to-foliow instruc tions. And, if you use the zipper foot, you wiii find it easy to form an even iine of stitching close to the zipper.

• Stitch: Straight [

• Stitch Width:

• Needie Position:

• Stitch Length: 10 to 15

• Straight-Stitch Plate

• Zipper Foot

Zipper Foot to

Right of Needle

Zipper Foot to Left of Needie

ADJUSTING THE ZIPPER FOOT

When the zipper is to the right of the needie:

• Attach right side of zipper foot to shank (needie wiii enter right notch in foot).

When the zipper is to the ieft of the needie:

• Attach ieft side of zipper foot to shank (nee

die wiii enter left notch in foot).

CORDED SEAMS

The corded seam is a professionai treatment for slipcovers, children’s clothes, blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the welting first (or buy it ready-made at a no tions counter), then stitch it into the seam. For

both steps, use the zipper foot to place the

stitching close to the cord. CAUTION: Use the pattern selector to select

straight stitch before attaching zipper foot to

the machine. This eliminates the possibility of

needle breakage.

Zipper Insertion

■ Basting (Optional)

Hem Edge

BLINDSTITCH HEMS

• Stitch: Blindstitch

• Stitch Width: 2 to 5 (depending on fabric)

• Needle Position: or JL

• Stitch Length: 6 to 12

• Zig-Zag Plate

• Zig-Zag Foot

• Blindstitch Hem Guide

Blindstitching takes a little practice, so make a test sample first.

Raise take-up lever to its highest position.

1. Raise presser foot, loosen presser-foot screw, and slip blindstitch hem guide be tween screw and shank of zig-zag foot.

Make sure underside of guide clears slide plate and front of foot. Tighten presser-foot

screw.

Wrong Sideof Fabric

Creating Soft Fold

.1/2"

*-Hem

Edge

-Soft Foid

-1/4"

2. Turn up hem in width desired. Apply ap propriate finish to hem edge and press. (You may want to baste the turned hem to hold it in place. If so, be sure to place basting at least V2 inch below top edge of hem.)

3. Fold the hem back against right side of gar ment, creating a soft fold about Va inch

from top edge of hem on wrong side of

work. Press lightly.

4. Position hem under foot with soft fold rest ing against wall of guide. Make sure flange of guide is between the soft fold and top of hem.

5. Lower the foot and stitch so that the straight stitches fall on the hem edge and sideward stitches pierce the soft fold. While stitching, guide hem edge in a straight line and feed soft fold evenly against wall of hem guide.

6. Raise take-up lever to its highest position.

Raise presser foot and remove work (by

drawing it to the back).

DARTS

Darts can be made in the usual way on your

sewing machine. That is, you begin stitching

at the wide end of the dart, stitch to the point, and then fasten the two thread ends.

However, thanks to the push-button bobbin, you can avoid the problem of fastening the thread ends by making a “continuous-thread”

dart and stitching in the opposite direction. This method is particularly useful for darts in

sheer fabrics, where transparency requires a

neat, clean finish. It is also useful for darts

made on the right side of a garment as a style

detail.

Regular Darts

• stitch: Straight |

• Stitch Width:

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Length: About 12 or to suit fabric

• Straight-stitch Plate

• Straight-stitch Foot

1. Stitch from the seam edge, tapering grad ually to the point.

2. Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread chain I/2 to inch long.

3. Clip thread ends about 2 inches from dart point and tie the ends into a single knot close to the stitching.

Continuous-thread Darts

1. Set the machine as for regular darts.

2. Wind an empty bobbin with a small amount of thread to make a single dart. (To hasten

separation of starting thread end from the

winding bobbin, pull thread end gently after winding has started.)

3. Close slide plate, and position the needle

in the very edge of the fold, at the point of basted or pinned dart. Lower presser foot.

Starting to Stitch Continuous-thread Dart

4. Stitch carefully from the point to the wide end of the dart at the seam edge.

Remove excess thread from bobbin and re

wind for each dart.

Continuous-thread Dart

sewing knit and stretch fabric

When you sew stretch fabrics, double knits, tricot, jersey, and elastic, choose one of the stitch patterns that build stretch into the seam. A wide variety of stitches are available.

STRETCH STITCH CHART

Pattern Where to Use

Straight Stretch Stitcht

Built-in Feather () or Honeycomb ( ^ )

(Stitch Width )

Overedge Stretch Stitcht

Honeycomb Stitcht

See table below. Remember to use a bail-point

Yellow Band needle in the machine when you

attach elastic or sew knit or stretch fabric.

Plain seams that s-t-r-e-t-c-h — Sleeve and gusset insertion — Swimsuit construc tion— Crotch seams — Repairing and rein forcing seams.

Overedge seams that stretch — Crotch seams — Waistband and seam finishes in shorts and slacks — Ski-suit, snow-suit,

and swimsuit construction.

Attaching elastic and stretch lace — Lingerie and girdle repair — Swimsuit con struction — Edge finishes for seams, hems, and facings.

Attaching elastic and stretch lace —

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zagt

Lingerie and swimsuit construction — Gir dle seams — Seam finishes — Casings and waistband finishes.

General-purpose stretch sewing — Lingerie

Plain Zig-Zag

seams — Attaching stay tape — Seam finishing — Edge finishing — Attaching stretch lace.

Blindstitch

Feather Stitcht

tThis stitch is designed for strength and permanence and cannot readily be ripped out without risk of fabric damage.

Flexible blindstitch hemming — Overcast seam finishing — Shell hems in lingerie.

Swimsuit seams — Attaching stretch lace ■ Lingerie and girdle seams.

STARTING TO SEW USING A FLEXI-STITCH PATTERN

When using a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the forward-

reverse stitching direction is controlled by the pattern disc. For this reason, Flexi-Stitch pat terns cannot be reversed (back-tacked).

To start sewing with a Flexi-Stitch pattern, draw needle and bobbin threads under foot to

back of machine. Hold thread ends and posi tion needle in fabric with a light touch on the speed controller. Lower presser foot and hold thread ends at back of foot as you start to stitch. This will prevent the threads being drawn down into the needle hole. The Flexi- Stitch pattern itself will reinforce the ends of your seam.

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most stretch and knit fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Simply let the

machine move the fabric to make stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to seams.

Starting to Sew Using a Flexi-Stitch Pattern

Some fabrics, however, require support while

being stitched.

• For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits,

apply gentle tension by holding seam in front and back of the presser foot.

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus ing it to break.

ADJUSTING PRESSURE WHEN SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC

Some knit and stretch fabrics, because of their structure, require either more or less than

normal (NORM) presser-bar pressure to feed

smoothly and evenly.

• For thick, soft or very stretchy knits, de crease pressure by turning dial from NORM

(normal) toward DARN.

• For nylon tricot, ciré and similar hard sur face synthetic knits, increase pressure by turning dial from NORM (normal) toward

MAX (maximum).

Applying Gentle Tension to Tricot

For Thick, Soft, Stretchy Knits

For Nylon

Tricot, Ciré

Pressure Settings for

Sewing Knits

Straight Stretch Stitching

STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH SEAM

When you use the straight stretch stitch (pro

duced with either Feather ( ) or Honeycomb

( ^ ) pattern at stitch width) to seam knit, stretch, and elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and strength are built in as the

seam is being sewn. Because it is equally

useful for closed or pressed-open seam con struction and will not break thread under stress, the straight stretch stitch is also good for seams that receive an unusual amount of strain. For example: crotch seaming, seam in sertion, and construction seams in sportswear and swimsuits.

• Stitch: Feather ^ or Honeycomb

• Stitch Width:

• Needle Position;

• Stitch Length: 6 to 8 (in yeliow area)

• Stitch Balance: Equalized

• Speed; MIN

• Zig-Zag Plate

• Zig-Zag Foot

Straight Stretch Stitching

with Zig-Zag Foot

Preparation

Make a test sample to determine thread ten sion and adjust stitch balance. (See page 21.) Be sure to insert a ball-point Yellow Band nee dle in machine if you are stitching a knit stretch or elastic fabric.

Procedure

1. Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot to back of machine. Hold thread ends and

position needle in fabric with a light touch

on the speed controller.

2. Lower the presser foot and start machine,

holding the thread ends as the first few

stitches are made.

3. Guide fabric lightly as you sew, letting the machine make the back-and-forth stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam.

4. Press seam after stitching as when using the regular straight stitch.

FAGOTING

• stitch: Featherstitch ^

• Stitch Width: 5

• Needie Position:

• Stitch Length: 6 to8 (in yeilowarea)

• Speed: MIN

• Zig-Zag Piate

• Zig-Zag Foot

The art of joining two pieces of fabric with an open, lacy decorative stitch is called fagoting.

You can create this attractive trimming with the featherstitch. Use it for decorative stretch seams in bathing suits or for joining together narrow strips of fabric to make an entire gar ment section.

• Turn under (and hem by hand slipstitching) the raw edges of the fabric strips or seams to be joined. Press flat or you may zig-zag

raw edges.

• Baste two fabric edges to be joined onto tissue paper leaving approximately 1/8-

inch (3mm) gap between the two edges. Stitch, guiding two fabric edges under the center of presser foot. Allow the needle to alternately make a stitch in each fabric strip and two stitches in the center of the open

ing. The tissue paper should be gently

pulled away when fagoting is completed.

Patchwork Quilting

• Cut a fabric underlay to size. Baste a light layer of padding to underlay if a quilted effect is desired.

• Prepare patches, turning under 1/4-inch (6mm) seam allowance. On non-woven fabric this step is not necessary.

• Baste patches to underlay in arrangement desired, butting all edges.

• Stitch in lengthwise and crosswise rows, allowing stitches to straddle patches.

$ 0 0 0 >.

^ 0 0 0 ii:

ft* j -

if iv •

# 0 a :

0 0 0 ■<:

0 0 0 0'.

0 0 0

^ ^ ^

« « i?

^ ^

fi ^ fs;

0 0

„

' :

0 0 0

ih a

•è

Patchwork Quilting

Overedged Seam

OVEREDGED SEAMS

• Stitch; Overedge Stretch ^

• Stitch Width; 5

• Needle Position;

• Stitch Length; 6 to 8

• Stitch Balance; Equalized

• Speed; MIN

• Zig-Zag Plate

• Zig-Zag Foot

Seams in knit and stretch fabrics can be joined and finished in one operation when you

use the overedge stretch stitch.

Procedure

1. Make a test sample before beginning gar ment construction to test machine settings.

(See page 21 for adjusting stitch balance.) Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test, and use a ball-point

Yellow Band needle if you are sewing a syn thetic knit fabric.

Stitching Seam

• Baste the garment together on the seam line allowing for 5/8-inch seam allowance and fit in usual way.

• After making any necessary adjustments,

trim seam edge evenly to a scant 1/4-

inch from seam line basting.

• Place trimmed seam under the foot so that the straight stitches fall on the

basted seam line and zig-zag stitches fall over the seam edge.

MOCK OVEREDGING

• stitch: Overedge Stretch Stitch

• Stitch Width; 5

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Length: (in yellow area)

• Stitch Balance: Equalized

• Speed: MIN

• Zig-Zag Plate

• Zig-Zag Foot

When it is not practical to overedge a seam

because of fabric construction, a mock over

edge finish can be applied. This finish is ap

propriate for bulky knits, stretchy sweater knits, fine tricots, and fabrics that curl or fray.

Procedure;

• Make a test sample to check machine ad justments, including pressure setting, before beginning garment construction.

Mock Overedging

• Baste the garment together on the seam line and fit in the usual way.

• After making any necessary adjustments,

place seam under the presser foot. Stitch so that the stitches on the left side of the pat tern penetrate the basted seam line.

• Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric to produce a narrow seam edge. When the seam supports the garment, omit the trimming step.

FINISHES FOR HEMS AND FACINGS

Hems and facing edges in knit and stretch

fabrics will be less apt to press through and

mark when given a flat edge finish. Edge finishing with the multi-stitch zig-zag stitch and honeycomb stitch, eliminates the bulk of turned-in fabric edges and retains fabric flex

ibility. Make a test sample to determine the

best stitch for your fabric. Place stitching about 1/8-inch from hem or facing edge.

Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line.

handling special fabrics

Many fabrics, because of their construction or finish, demand special attention in sewing. Techniques used in stitching and handling,

and choice of machine accessories, will vary

FABRIC-HANDLING TABLE

FABRIC

VINYL-

leather-look patent, suede, reptile

PILE — velvet,

velveteen,

corduroy

SPECIAL HANDLING

Use transparent tape as a substitute for pins or

basting — Topstitch to hold seams and edges flat — Avoid worked (machine) buttonholes.

Stitch in direction of nap — Use plain seams — Overcast or bind seam edges to prevent fraying — Press over a self-fabric

cloth.

with the fabric. Let the table below guide your

selection. Refer to page 34, for instructions on sewing knit and stretch fabrics. Thread

usage information is tabulated on page 7.

STITCH

Length-Type

6-8 i Straight Stitch

10-15 [ Straight Stitch for seams

12-15 1 Zig-Zag or

Honeycomb

Stitch ^

for over casting

NEEDLE

Style-Size

Style 2020 Size 14 or 16 for woven backing

Style 2045 Size 14 or 16 for knit backing

Style 2020 Size 14

Style 2045 Size 14 or 16 for panne velvet

MACHINE

ACCESSORIES

Zig-Zag Foot or

Even Feed

Foott Zig-Zag

Plate

(Zig-Zag Foot for overcasting) or

Even Feed

Foott Zig-Zag Plate

Pin rather than baste seams — Stitch in direc

tion of nap — Use plain

DEEP PILE-

fake fur

PERMANENT PRESSpercale, broadcloth,

shirting

tThe Even Feed Foot described on page 55 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

seams for short-hair furs;

narrow overedged seams for shaggy, bulky furs — Shear pile from seam allowances to reduce bulk.

Control seam tension

manually by holding fabric taut as it passes under the presser foot. Sew at

moderate speed.

6-10 i Straight Stitch for

plain seams

12-2o|

Zig-Zag Stitch

10-15 i Straight Stitch

Style 2020 Size 16

Style 2020 Size 11 or 14

Zig-Zag

Foot or

Even Feed

Foott

Zig-Zag

Plate

StraightStitch Foot

StraightStitch Plate

FABRIC-HANDLING TABLE

FABRIC SPECIAL HANDLING

Use narrow overedged,

double stitched, or

French whipped seams —

FINE KNITStricot, jersey

BLANKET

BINDING -

satin face

SOFT SHEERchiffon, voile, China silk

Hold thread ends securely for a few stitches at start of seam — Support seams while stitching. See

page 35.- Increase presser-foot pressure.

Hand-baste binding to blanket (pin marks show)

— Miter corners.

Use French seams, double

stitched, or French

whipped seams — Hold ends of needle and bobbin

thread when you begin to

stitch — Support fabric while stitching. See page 15.

STITCH

Length-Type

8-12 1

Straight Stitch

12-15 1 Narrow Zig-Zag

6-10 i

Straight Stitch

6-12 1

Zig-Zag Stitch or Decorative Stitch

12-15 i

Straight Stitch

NEEDLE

Style-Size

Style 2045 Size 11 or 14 only

Style 2020 Size 11 or 14

Style 2020 Size 9 or 11

MACHINE

ACCESSORIES

StraightStitch Foot and Straight-

Stitch Plate (for straight stitching)

Zig-Zag Foot and Zig-Zag Plate (for zig-zag stitching)

Zig-Zag

Foot or

Even Feed

Foott

Zig-Zag

Plate

StraightStitch Foot

Straight-

Stitch Plate

BEADED and

SEQUINED FABRIC

BONDED OR

LAMINATED FABRIC -

NAPPED FABRICcashmere,

mohair, camel

hair

tThe Even Feed Foot described on page 55 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

Remove beads from seam allowance — Baste seam line — Stitch with zipper foot to right of needle.

Use welt, flat-felled, or

double-topstitched seams —Slash darts, grade seams, and reinforce button and buttonhole areas.

Cut with nap running

down — Sew in direction

of nap — Topstitch to hold

seams and edges flat.

To suit fabric backing

6-8 1

Straight Stitch

6-12 i

Straight Stitch

To suit fabric backing

Style 2020 Size 14 for foam backing

Style 2045

Size 14 for knit

backing

Style 2020 Size 11-16

Zipper Foot Straight-

Stitch Plate

Zig-Zag Foot or Even Feed

Foott

Zig-Zag

Plate

Zig-Zag Foot or Even Feed

Foott

Zig-Zag

Plate

Stitch Length in FINE Area

decorative touches

SATIN STITCHING

Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-like surface, is useful for both practical and decorative work. The plain zig-zag stitch, for example, is suitable for applique when closed

up to form a satin stitch. Other built-in Fashion Stitch patterns (as illustrated on page 18) can be sewn at satin-stitch length.

When you wish to produce a satin stitch, make

a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp lawn or organdy is suit

able for this purpose. For best results, use the special purpose foot.

• Stitch: Desired Fashion Stitch

As Dial Is Turned, Stitches Close Up

Tension Dial

Incorrect

Correct

Adjusting Thread Tension

• Stitch Width: 2 through 5

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Length: FINE area

• Zig-Zag Plate

• Special Purpose Foot

Adjusting Stitch Length

1. Set stitch-length dial at bottom of FINE area.

2. Run machine at slow speed.

3. Gradually turn dial clockwise until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth sur face.

Adjusting Thread Tension

Satin stitching usually requires less tension than straight stitching and open zig-zag stitch

ing. Furthermore, the wider the satin stitch,

the lighter the tension on your thread must be.

Notice the stitching on your sample. If the fabric is puckered, or the bobbin thread is pulled to the fabric surface, lower the needlethread tension by turning the dial to a lower number.

APPLIQUE

Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture com bine equally well.

A closely spaced zig-zag stitch is most com monly used in appliqué work, but decorative stitch patterns may also be used effectively. Although you may vary stitch width to accom modate fabric weave or texture, never allow the stitch to be too wide.

When appliquéing, make a test sample to help you decide which of the following two methods

is more appropriate for your fabric and de

sign.

Preparation

• Baste appliqué to fabric.

• Outline appliqué with straight stitching (use a short stitch).

• Remove basting and press.

• Attach special-purpose foot (and zig-zag plate).

Method #1 — Trimming after Stitching

1. Set pattern selector and stitch-width dial

for desired appliqué stitch. Adjust stitch

length in the FINE area.

2. Outline the entire design with appliqué

stitching.

3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of

the stitching with embroidery scissors.

Method #2 — Stitching after Trimming

1. Trim outside fabric edges close to straight-

stitch outline of design.

2. Set pattern selector and stitch-width dial

for desired appliqué stitch. Adjust stitch

length in the FINE area.

Method #1 — Trimming after Stitching

3. Overedge the design with appliqué stitch

ing. This step will produce a smooth, lus-

trousfinish.

Method #2 — Stitching after Trimming

FREE’MOTION EMBROIDERY

In free-motion embroidery, you control the direction and speed of fabric movement by means of an embroidery hoop. Stitch length is determined by the speed at which the hoop is moved and zig-zag stitch width is varied by the direction of hoop movement. The hoop should be one designed for machine use.

• Stitch; Plain Zig-Zag ^ (or Straight Stitch [ )

• Stitch Width; 2 through 5 (or Straight Stitch)

• Needle Position;

• Speed; In MIN range

• Feed Cover Plate (See page 4 for attaching)

• No Presser Foot or Shank

Monogramming with Plain Zig-Zag Pattern

Free-Motion Embroidery

1. Attach feed cover plate.

2. Trace or transfer design outline to right side of fabric and center in embroidery

hoop. Make sure fabric is taut.

3. Raise presser-foot lifter to its high position, place hoop under needle and lower presser bar to engage thread tension.

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand wheel over, and draw bobbin thread up through fabric.

5. Lower needle into fabric, hold thread ends and start stitching. After two or three stitches, cut thread ends.

6. Run machine at an even rate of speed, following or filling in design outline as ap

propriate. Move hoop rapidly to increase

stitch length and change the direction of

hoop movement. To shade change zig-zag

stitch width from wide to narrow.

TOPSTITCHING

A practical, simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges, hems, pockets, seams, etc. For a tailored

look, use lines of regular straight stitching; sew them with buttonhole twist (or double strands of regular thread) for added emphasis. For decorative interest, use a zig zag stitch. To keep stitching at an even dis tance from the fabric edge, use the seam guide available for separate purchase at your

local Singer Sewing Center.

Two-thread Topstitching

Bold, well-defined topstitching is produced by using two strands of regular thread in the nee

dle instead of a single strand. Ideal for sum

mer knits, linens, cottons, denims, and vinyls,

two thread topstitching is economical and

particularly appropriate for use when a nonlustrous, washable finish is required.

Topstitching with Leaf Stitch

• Select a size 16 Style 2020 needle for woven fabric and use a size 14, Style 2045

Yellow Band needle for knits.

• Set the machine for straight stitching.

• Clip detachable spool pin to thread guidepost by pushing open end of detacha

ble spool pin around guidepost.

• Using the two threads, thread the machine

in the regular way for single-needle stitch

ing. For best results, use size 50 mercerized cotton thread or cotton-wrapped polyester thread.

• Pass threads together into tension discs and threading points above the needle.

a Cut thread ends diagonally and draw both

through the eye of the needle using the nee dle threader.

• Make a stitching test to determine the best stitch length and needle-thread tension. A

long stitch, 6 to 10 per inch, is usually best.

• Sew at moderate speed.

keeping up appearances

DARNING

Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes,

knits, and household linens can be darned effortlessly and quickly with little practice. You may choose to darn either with or without an embroidery hoop. When greater controi is needed, use an embroidery hoop designed for machine use.

Without Embroidery Hoop

• stitch: Straight j

• Stitch Width;

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Length: 10 to 15

• Pressure: DARN

• Zig-Zag Plate

• Zig-Zag Foot

1. If area to be darned is open, baste an un derlay in place. Set machine according to code.

2. Place area to be darned under presser foot; lower presser foot and start stitching, alternately drawing fabric toward you and pulling it gently away from you.

3. Continue this forward and backward mo tion as you fill the area with parallel lines of stitching. For additional strength, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.

With Embroidery Hoopt

• stitch: Straight 1

• Stitch Width:

• Needle Position;

• Stitch Length; In FINE area

• Feed Cover Plate (See page 4 for attaching)

• No Presser Foot or Presser Foot Shank

1. Attach feed cover plate (see page 4).

2. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned and center worn section in embroidery hoop designed for machine use.

3. Position work under needie and lower the

presser bar to engage tension.

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand,

turn hand wheel over, and draw bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric.

5. Outline area to be darned with running

stitches for reinforcement.

6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop back

and forth under needle. Keep lines of stitching closely spaced and even in

length.

7. When opening is filled, cover area with

crosswise lines of stitching.

Darning without Embroidery Hoop

+For best results, Flip 5 Sew panel should be up when darning with embroidery hoop.

Darning with Embroidery Hoop

MENDING

REPLACING LINGERIE ELASTIC

Many stitch patterns are just as useful for mending as they are for creative sewing. The multi-stitch zig-zag forms a firm, flexible bond that is ideal for repairing tears and replacing elastic. The straight stretch stitch provides for the repair and reinforcement of pressed-open seams. Bar tacks to reinforce points of strain are made with the plain zig

zag stitch or the arrowhead stitch.

Mending a Tear

• stitch: Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag <'

• Stitch Width: 3 to 5

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Length: 20

• Zig-Zag Plate

• Zig-Zag Foot

1. Trim ragged edges.

2. Place underlay on the wrong side of torn area for reinforcement. (Do not baste or pin the underlay since you will be bringing the edges of the tear together in the next step.)

When replacing waistline elastic in lingerie,

use the same settings and accessories as for mending a tear.

1. Fit elastic for desired snugness at waistline, allowing one inch for joining. Lap ends to form a band and straight stitch together as shown.

2. Divide elastic band into four equal seg

ments and mark with pins. Do the same to the garment. Then pin together at corre sponding points, pinning elastic over right side of fabric, top edges even.

3. Take a few straight stitches to anchor elastic to fabric. Select multi-stitch zig zag. Then hold elastic and garment edge taut as you stitch so that it will remain stretchable after stitching is completed.

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are

stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus ing it to break.

3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges of the tear together.

4. Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength.

5. Trim underlay.

Tear Mended with Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Joining Elastic

Replacing Lingerie Elastic

8. FREE-ARM SEWING

Fabric handling, when sewing tubular and

hard to reach garment areas, is simplified when you convert your machine to free-arm sewing. A few of the sewing jobs for which you will find the free arm particularly useful are shown on the following pages. You will dis cover many more for yourself.

To convert your machine for free-arm sewing, simply press down on the corner of the Flip &

Sew panel on sewing machine with heel of

right hand. To raise Flip & Sew panel, place hand under

panel and lift up until it locks into place. A

click will be heard when panel is locked in

position.

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS

Sewing buttons on a cuff or neckband is no longer a task when the free-arm surface is used. Cuffs slip around the sewing surface without being pulled out of shape, so you can see and han dle the stitching area easily.

SLEEVES

Free-arm sewing takes the difficulty out of stitching a sleeve. The armhole rotates smoothly under the needle so that you can place stitching accurately. The extra control afforded by the free arm is especially helpful for topstitching flat-fell seams.

Badges, emblems and insignia of all sizes and shapes can be attached to shirts and uniforms by slipping sleeve or hard-to-reach area over the sewing surface.

EDGE FINISHES

The free-arm surface makes it easy to finish sleeves, pant legs and waistlines. These circular garment areas rotate smoothly around the sewing surface, giving you full visibility and control as you blindstitch hems, attach elastic, or topstitch cuffs.

DARNING AND MENDING

Knees, elbows and other areas of wear in children’s clothes, sweaters, jackets and shorts become readily accessible for darning, mending or patching when the freearm surface is used. The sewing surface fits inside the enclosed sleeve and leg areas, making it unnecessary to open seams or roll the garment. For darning, follow the instructions on page 46 and refer to page 47 for mending information.

BAR TACKS

Bar tacks reinforce areas of strain and can be applied to ready-made garments, as well as to those sewn at home. Use the free-arm surface to avoid fabric bulk around the needle when you apply this detail to pockets, plackets, and waistlines.

9. CARING FOR YOUR SEWING MACHINE

With a fine cord or multiple strands of thread,

cleaning the machine

clean;

• Thread-retainer spring

CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, dis

connect power-line plug from electrical supply.

Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few moments to clean it. How often you will need to clean the

machine will depend on how often you use it. Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts.

With a soft cloth or lint brush, clean;

• Tension discs, presser bar, and needle bar

• Take-up lever and thread guides

• Machine surface. (If necessary, dampen the cloth and use a mild soap.)

Open slide plate, remove bobbin (see pageio), and remove plate as instructed on page 4.

With the lint brush, clean;

• Area around feed

• Area in and around the bobbin case

With the lint brush or soft cloth, clean;

• Bobbin window (If necessary, tilt machine back slightly to clean underside of window.)

Your machine requires no oiling under normal conditions. Your SINGER representative, or Approved Dealer, will examine the perma

nently lubricated parts whenever your sewing machine requires servicing.

changing the light bulb

CAUTION: Before changing light bulb, make sure you have disconnected power-line plug from electrical outlet.

When changing to a new bulb be sure to use a

15-watt bayonet base bulb only.

REMOVING BULB

Using thumb and forefinger of right hand, pull down on tab located under light lens to lower the light bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb. Press bulb up into the socket and

at the same time turn it over in the direction

shown to unlock bulb pin.

REPLACING BULB

Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin en tering slot of socket, and turn it over in direc tion shown to lock bulb in position. Push entire

assembly up until it snaps in position.

Light Lens Tab

performance checklist

Should you encounter a sewing problem, review the sewing operation you are per forming. If the problem persists, the following hints should help you correct it.

If the machine does not start: make sure

• Machine is connected to electrical supply.

• Power and light switch is on.

• Bobbin has not been wound too full. (Do not wind beyond outer ring on bobbin.) If too full, remove excess thread.

If the needle bar moves but the stitch is

not formed: make sure

• Needle is straight.

• Needle size and style are correct for the thread you are using.

• Machine and needle are correctly threaded.

• Bobbin contains thread.

• Bobbin-case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.

• You are using a ball point Yellow Band* needle to sew knit or stretch fabrics.

If fabric puckers: make sure

• Needle-thread tension is not too tight.

• Presser-foot pressure is correctly set.

If fabric does not move: make sure

• Presser foot is down and pressure dial is adjusted for the weight and texture of your fabric.

• Stitch-length dial is correctly set.

• All lint is removed from around the feed.

• Presser foot or accessory is correctly attached.

If stitching is irregular, or needle thread breaks: make sure

• Machine is correctly threaded.

• Thread is even and free of knots.

• Needle is straight and correct size for thread and fabric.

• Spool holder is pressed firmly against thread spool and thread unwinds smoothly from spool.

• Needle-thread tension is not too tight.

• Presser foot is raised for bobbin winding.

• Bobbin case is correctly threaded

(when inserting a previously wound

bobbin).

• Threads are correctly placed under presser foot when you start to sew.

• Bobbin-case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.

• Bobbin is not damaged.

To prevent needle breakage: make sure

• Twin needle does not strike plate during stitching (stitch width should not ex ceed 2.5).

• Needle is not bent or burred, is the cor rect style for your machine model, and

is the proper size for the thread you are

using.

• Needle is fully inserted in needle clamp.

• Presser-foot shank is securely fastened to presser bar.

• Fabric being guided or supported behind the needle is not being pulled too hard.

• Machine is set for straight stitching when you use straight-stitch foot.

Enjoy Sewing!

If you have any questions, please write to:

The Singer Company

Consumer Affairs Department

321 First Street

Elizabeth, N. J. 07207

10. SEWING AIDS

special accessories for special jobs

Sewing Aids have been designed to increase the versatility of your sewing machine and enable you to give your sewing that extra pro fessional touch. The ones described beiow are just a few of the compiete seiection avaiiable at your iocai Singer Sewing Center.

Hemmer Foot

Narrow hems can be turned and stitched in a single operation if you use the hemmer foot. Thus, you can eliminate basting or pinning whenever you are making ruffie edges,

iingerie finishes, and the iike.

Even Feed Foot

The Even Feed Foot is effective in keeping fabric piies even, and in matching plaids, stripes, and patterns. It is an invaiuable aid for sewing hard-to-feed vinyi and fake fur, piie, stretch, bonded and iaminated fabrics. Ideai for topstitching.

No. 171145 Quilting Foot

No. 506415 Gathering Foot

No. 160691

The quiiting foot is especially well adapted to stitching iightiy padded fabrics. It is excellent for the placement of straight stitching in

biock, fioral, or scroll designs. This short, open foot permits foiiowing curved lines with ease and accuracy.

No. 161169

The gathering foot can be used for evenly

spaced shirring as weii as for a singie iine of

gathering. This foot is used for straight stitch

ing oniy.

Ruffler

This accessory offers a simple, effective way to make gathered and pleated ruffles. The

ruffler is used for straight stitching only.

No. 161561 Finger Guard

No. 161681

The finger guard provides extra safety by pro

tecting fingers from the needie. It is ideai for

the student, new sewer, or the biind person.

your personal measurements

This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. You will need the assistance

of someone to help you to take the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure.

The illustrations show where tape measure should be placed when taking each measurement.

As a starting point, use a ribbon firmly but comfortably tied at the waist before taking measurements.

inches (cm)

1. Bust — Fullest part — slightly higher in back ....................................................................

2. Waist — Around natural waistline.......................................................................................................

3. Hip —

4. Shouider — From base of neck to top of arm ...................................................................

5. Front Bodice Width — From arm hole to arm hole 5 inches (13cm)

6. Back Bodice Width — From arm hole to arm hole 4 inches (10cm)

7. Shoulder to Bust — From neck base at shoulder to point of bust

8. Front Waist Length — From neck base at shoulder over fullest part of bust to waistline

9. Back Waist Length — From the prominent bone at base of neck to natural waistline

10. Sleeve Width — Around arm at upper edge of underarm seam

11. Sleeve Length—Shoulder to elbow ..............................................................................

12. Sleeve Elbow to Wrist ................................................................................................

13. Front Skirt Length — Down center from waistline to hem

14. Back Skirt Length — Down center from waistline to hem ...............................................

15. Full Length — Waist to floor at side seam

16. Pant Length — Waist to ankle ..........................................................................................

17. Crotch Depth (seated)—Waist to chair at side seam ......................................................

18. Crotch Seam (standing)—Crotch depth 17 to be deducted from pant length 16

.......

inches (cm) beiow natural waistline (fullest part) ...............................................................

down from center shoulder ............................................................

down from center shoulder

PANTS MEASUREMENT CHART

....................................................................... ................ ...........

............................................................................ ...........

...................................

....................................................... ...........

.............................................................. ...........

...........

................ ...........

_______ _____

_________

............... ...........

................ ...........

...........

____

■¿Jij

personal notes

INDEX

Accessories............................................................ 2

Adjusting Machine to Fabric................................. 12

Appliqué Blindstitch Hem Guide Blindstitch Hems Bobbin

Raising Bobbin Thread

Removing Bobbin

..............................................................

...........................................

.................................................

..................................................

2, 9, 10, 11

....................................

.............................................

Removing Thread............................................. 10

Replacing an Empty Bobbin

..........................

Replacing a Wound Bobbin.......................... 11

Winding .............................................................. 9

Built-in Stitches

...................................................

Buttonholes ......................................................... 25

Corded Buttonholes.......................................... 30

Buttons ................................................................ 24

Caring for your Machine ...................................... 52

Choosing Needle and Thread................................ 7

Construction Details Corded Seams Darning Darts

...............................................................

....................................................................

...........................................

....................................................

31 31

Decorative Touches............................................. 42

Elastic, Replacing Electrical Connections

................................................

...........................................

Embroidery........................................................... 44

Fabric-Handling Table Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table Finishes for Hems and Facings Free-Arm Sewing Free-Motion Embroidery Guiding and Supporting Fabric

........................................

.........................

...........................

................................................

......................................

...........................

7 39 48 44 35

Length of Stitch.................................................... 20

Light Bulb............................................................. 53

Mending............................................................. 47

Mock Overedging................................................. 39

Needle............................................... 2, 6, 8, 19, 22

Changing

............................................................

Lifter................................................................... 1

Position Ring

...................................................

Threading...................................................... 8, 22

Operating the Machine........................................... 5

Overedged Seams Pattern Selector

..............................................

..................................................

38 19

Performance Checklist......................................... 54

Pin Basting........................................................... 14

Plates ............................................................ 2, 3, 4

Changing Plates Feed Cover Plate Straight-stitch Plate

Zig-Zag Plate

................................................

..............................................

............................................

....................................................

Slide Plate.......................................................... 1

Power and Light Switch

.....................................

1,5

Presser Feet............................................ 2, 3, 4, 31

Button Foot......................................................... 2

Buttonhole Foot.................................................. 2

Changing Presser Feet Special-purpose Foot Straight-stitch Foot

......................................

........................................

............................................

Zig-Zag Foot....................................................... 2

Zipper Foot .................................................. 3, 31

Pressure Adjustments

..............................

1, 1 2, 35

Principal Parts....................................................... 1

Replacing Elastic

................................................

Reverse Stitching................................................. 17

Satin Stitching...................................................... 42

Seams ............................................. 15,17,31,36,38

Corded............................................................. 31

Curved.............................................................. 17

Overedged ....................................................... 38

Straight

............................................................

Straight Stretch................................................. 36

Sewing Aids Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric

.........................................................

...........................

Speed Controller ................................................ 1,5

Spool Holder Stitch Balance Stitch Length Adjustments

.......................................................

.....................................................

.............................

13, 20

1,6

Stitch Placement.................................................. 19

Stitch-width Dial Straight Stitching

...................................................

........................

12, 14, 15, 16, 17

Curved Seams.................................................. 17

Reinforcing End of Seam

.................................

Straight Seams ................................................ 16

Turning Square Corners

Tension Adjustments

...................................

......................................

13,20

Topstitching......................................................... 51

Twin-Needle Stitching.......................................... 22

Zig-Zag Stitching ................................................. 18

Zippers

................................................................

4 3 2

4 2 2

Form 21741 (Rev. 580) Part No. 381425

Dear Customer:

We recommend that for future reference you record the

serial number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided.

Refer to illustration

at right for location of serial number on Serial No

your machine.

Serial No.

«si.

Enjoy Sewing!

If you have any questions, please write to:

The Singer Company

Consumer Affairs Department

321 First Street

Elizabeth, N.J. 07207

•A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY

Printed in U.S.A.

Make Your Sewing Easier,

Faster and Professional Looking!

;5-

RUFFLES

NAR®\^ HEM

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1 ’

CJJtLTING

Frilly ruffles, narrow hems, luxurious quilting, and evenly-spaced shirring can add that professional touch to your sewing projects... and you can make them quickly and easily on your sewing machine ... using only four of the many accessories available from your Singer Sewing Center.

SINGER 1036 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

fashion machine 1036

CPffl71\€ TOUCH'

15. Thread Guides

2. Needles . ..

One-Piece Presser Feet

CHANGING PLATES

2. GETTING READY TO SEW

CONNECTING MACHINE

OPERATING MACHINE

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

SPOOL HOLDER

choosing needle and thread

THREADING

WINDING THE BOBBIN

changing the bobbin

REMOVING THE BOBBIN

REPLACING AN EMPTY BOBBIN

REMOVING THREAD FROM BOBBIN

REPLACING A WOUND BOBBIN

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD

3. TIPS ON STRAIGHT STITCHING

adjusting machine to your fabric

SETTING CONTROLS

REGULATING PRESSURE

Regulating Needle-thread Tension

SETTING STITCH LENGTH

PIN BASTING

PLACING FABRIC

STARTING THE SEAM

KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS

CURVED SEAMS

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

4. ALL ABOUT ZIG-ZAG STITCHING

built-in stitches

SETTING PATTERN SELECTOR

ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT

ADJUSTING STITCH WIDTH

ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

For Fashion Stitch Patterns

For Flexi-Stitch Patterns

adjusting stitch balance

when using Flexi-Stitch patterns

5. TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING

twin-needle stitch chart

6. BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES

buttons

FORMING A THREAD SHANK

ONE-STEP BUTTONHOLES

Red symbols indicate buttonhole settings

Preparation

Stitching Complete Buttonholes

Adj'usting Stitch Balance

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Inserting Cord in One-step Buttonhole Foot

Procedure

CUTTING BUTTON OPENING

7. SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY

ZIPPERS

ADJUSTING THE ZIPPER FOOT

CORDED SEAMS

STRETCH STITCH CHART

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

ADJUSTING PRESSURE WHEN SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC

STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH SEAM

Preparation

Procedure

FAGOTING

Patchwork Quilting

OVEREDGED SEAMS

Procedure

decorative touches

SATIN STITCHING

Adjusting Thread Tension

Adjusting Stitch Length