SUPER DELUXE FREE-ARM, STRETCH STITCH SEWING MACHINE
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Sew like a pro with your
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CONTENTS
Page
1. Getting to Know Your Machine ............................................................................................................................ 1
Principal Parts and What They Do.................................................................................................................... 1
Choosing Needle and Thread............................................................................................................................... 8
Threading the Machine......................................................................................................................................... 9
Threading the Needle • Winding the Bobbin
Changing the Bobbin.......................................................................................................................................... 12
3. Tips on Straight Stitching ..................................................................................................................................... 14
Adjusting Machine to Your Fabric .................................................................................................................... 14
Sewing a Seam.................................................................................................................................................... 16
4. All About Zig-Zag Stitching................................................................................................................................... 20
How Stitches Are Produced .............................................................................................................................. 20
8. Sewing the Professional Way............................................................................................................................... 41
Construction Details ......................................................................................................................................... 41
Zippers • Corded Seams • Blindstitch Hems • Darts
Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric......................................................................................................................... 44
Stretch Stitch Chart • Starting to Sew Using a Flexi-Stitch Pattern • Guiding and Supporting
Fabric • Adjusting Pressure • Plain Stretch Seams • Maxi-Topstitching • Overedged
Seams • Mock Overedging • Finishes for Hems and Facings
Handling Special Fabrics................................................................................................................................... 50
Keeping Up Appearances ................................................................................................................................. 58
Your Personal Measurements .......................................................................................................................... 65
10. Caring for Your Sewing Machine.......................................................................................................................... 66
11. Sewing Aids ........................................................................................................................................................... 69
8. Needle-position Ring places needle in
either J* (left), (center),
or J, (right) stitching position.
9. Stitch Pattern Panel pictures stitches
and allows for quick selection.
10. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle
thread.
11. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot
pressure on fabric.
12. Rear Thread Guide holds needle thread
firmly in place while sewing.
13. Snap-in Thread Guidepost eliminates
possible tangling of thread.
14. Presser-foot Lifter, at back of machine,
allows you to raise and lower the presser
foot.
15. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for
safety and convenience.
16. Buttonhole Lever sets the machine for
buttonholing.
17. Thread Guides
18. Zig-zag Foot holds fabric against feed.
19. F//p & Sew* Panel converts machine for
free-arm sewing.
20. Zig-zag Piate secured by magnets.
Guidelines on right and left sides help
you keep seams straight.
21. Soft-touch Feed moves fabric under
presser foot. Soft surface does not injure
fabric, even the most delicate.
22. Bobbin Latch allows you to switch from
sewing to bobbin winding without remov
ing bobbin.
23. Transparent Bobbin shows thread supply.
24. Slide Plate has a window to show bobbin
thread supply at a glance.
25. Needle Clamp holds single and twin nee
dles. It is designed to eliminate the
possibility of Inserting needle back
wards.
26. Tension Dial lets you select just the right
tension for your stitch, thread and fabric.
27. Built-in Sewing Light illuminates sewing
area.
28. Stitch-length Dial allows for a variety of
stitch lengths. To reverse stitching,
press dial all the way down and hold in
place.
29. Electrical Connections and Speed Con
troller
30. Power and Light Switch turns on the
machine and the sewing light
simultaneously.
31. Hand Wheel controls movement of take-
up lever and needle.
32. Friction-free Spool Holder, with horizon
tal pin holds spools of various sizes.
0
•5
1
accessories
The accessories that come with your sewing
machine are designed to heip you do many
kinds of sewing easiiy and perfectiy.
1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 181551)
2. Needles ...
• Style 2020 for all-purpose sewing.
• Style 2045 for sewing knits, stretch
fabrics and elastic.
• Style 2025t for twin-needle decorative
stitching.
3. Zig-Zag Foot and Zig-Zag Plate, on your
machine when delivered. Use them for
alternating between straight and zig-zag
stitching as well as utility zig-zag sewing.
They can also be used for straight-stitch
ing firm fabrics. Numbers on plate indi
cate distance from needle in eighths of
an inch from center needle position.
4. Straight-stitch Foot and Straight-stitch
Plate. Use these when your fabric or
sewing procedure requires close control.
Numbers on plate indicate distance from
needle in eighths of an inch.
The straight-stitch plate is also used for
chainstitching.
5. Button Foot holds most flat buttons
securely for fastening.
6. Feed Cover Plate for button sewing and
free-motion work.
7. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and
stitching corded seams.
8. Overedge Foot used with overedge
stretch stitch for seams in stretch fabrics
at stitch width 5 only.
9. Special-purpose Foot. Use this for all
kinds of decorative stitching.
10. Even Feed Foot for sewing hard-to-feed
pile, stretch, and bonded fabrics. Also
excellent for matching plaids and stripes
and for topstitching.
tCAUTION: Use this needle with the zig-zag needle plate and zig-zag or special purpose foot only.
Do not use any other accessories with this needle as needle breakage will occur.
11. One-step Buttonhole Foot allows you to
stitch complete buttonhole up to 1-1/2
inches in a single step. It determines the
correct buttonhole length, either by plac
ing button in foot or by using gauge on
foot.
12. Spool Holders
a. Small Spool Holder for use with small
diameter tubes of thread.
b. Large Spool Holder on your machine
when delivered. For use with medium
and large spools of thread.
13. Detachable Spool Pin for decorative
twin-needle stitching and two-thread
topstitching.
14. Seam Guide helps you keep seam
allowances even.
15. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the
zig-zag foot to position and guide the
hem.
11
12
13
16. Stitch-pattern Discs
• One reversible Flexi-Stitch disc on
holder in machine when delivered.
• Five discs in accessory box: three
reversible Flexi-Stitch* discs and two
reversible Fash/on* Stitch discs.
• Each reversible disc produces two pat
terns.
17. Seam Ripper to pick and cut threads
quickly and neatly.
18. Lint Brush for cleaning your sewing
machine.
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
Snap-on Presser Feet
Most of the presser feet furnished with your
machine snap on and off a common shank.
1. Raise take-up lever to its highest position
by turning the hand wheel toward you.
2. Raise presser foot.
3. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as
it will go) and then snap down to remove.
4. Center the new presser foot under the
shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so
that the shank fits over the presser-foot pin.
5. Press presser-foot screw down until foot
snaps into place.
To remove and replace the shank of snap-on
presser feet, follow instructions below for onepiece presser feet.
One-piece Presser Feet
1. Raise take-up lever to its highest position
by turning the hand wheel toward you.
2. Raise presser foot.
3. Loosen presser foot screw and remove the
foot guiding it to the right.
The Button Foot
• Hook button foot around the presser bar and
tighten presser-foot screw.
The Even Feed Foot
• Guide Even Feed foot into position from back
of machine, making sure the movabie arm
straddies the needie ciamp. Tighten
presser-foot screw secureiy with a coin. To
remove, ioosen screw and guide foot to the
right and away from you.
CHANGING PLATES
(Note; Remove bobbin if it contains thread in
order to prevent thread being caught when
piate is repiaced.)
1. Raise take-up iever to its highest position
by turning the hand wheel toward you.
2. Raise presser foot.
3. Open slide plate. Press down on front edge
of plate and lift up and out.
4. Position new plate over pins and release.
Plate is drawn into position by magnets.
See special instructions on page 30 for
attaching straight-stitch plate for
chainstitching.
bent to ensure perfect stitch formation and
needle penetration through the fabric. The
needle should also be fine enough to prevent
the fabric from being marred with large
punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the
fabric without being bent or deflected.
Remember, too, that the eye of the needle
must be large enough for the thread to pass
through freely; too fine a needle will cause the
thread to fray.
IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing machine
has been designed to obtain best results with
SINGER* needles. You should follow the
recommendations in this instruction book and
on the needle package for correct style and
size of needle for different types and weights
of fabric.
• Style 2020 (15x1) needles, for all-purpose
sewing.
• Style 2045 bail-point Yellow Band* need\es,
for sewing synthetic knits and stretch
fabrics.
• Style 2025 needle, for twin-needle decora
tive stitching.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
1. Raise needle to its highest point by turning
the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needleclamp screw, and remove the needle.
2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the flat
side of the needle to the back; push it up as
far as it will go.
3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.
SPOOL HOLDER
Place spool or tube of thread on horizontal
spool pin. If spool has a retaining slit, the slit
should be placed against the spool cushion to
the right. Select correct spool holder accord
ing to the type and diameter of spool being
used. The diameter of the end of the spool
holder should always be larger than that of the
spool itself. Press holder firmly against spool
to prevent it from turning.
operating machine
CONNECTING MACHINE
Before plugging in your machine, be sure that
the voitage and number of amperes indicated
at the right end of the machine, conform to
your electricai power suppiy.
• The MAX, setting B (switch pressed in all
the way) allows for full speed capacity of the
machine. It is best for long, straight seams,
and easy-to-handle fabrics.
• Push the machine plug into the machine
socket.
• Connect the power-line plug to your electri
cal outlet.
To turn on the machine and set speed range,
push the power and light switch to desired
speed. This will also turn on the sewing light.
• The MIN. setting A (switch pressed in half
way) allows for maximum control. Use this
setting for special jobs where intricate con
struction details require close control. The
speed range this setting provides is ap
propriate for almost all of your sewing
needs.
Connecting and Operating Machine
To run the machine, press the foot or knee
speed controller, The harder you press, the
faster the machine will sew within the
selected speed range. The lighter you press,
the slower the machine will sew within the
selected speed range.
CAUTION: Switch off the power and light
switch when changing needles, feet or needle
plates or when leaving the machine unattended.
This eliminates the possibility of starting the
machine by accidentally pressing the speed
controller.
Power and Light Switch
choosing needle and thread
The needle and thread you choose will depend
upon the fabric being stitched. The table be
low is a practical guide to needle and thread
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE t
selection. Refer to It before starting a sewing
project. Be sure to use the same size and type
of thread in both needle and bobbin.
THREAD ’
DELICATE— tulle, .chiffon, :,finé lace, or
ganza, chiffon yèjvèt
LIGHTWEIGHT — batiste, organdy, voile,
taffeta, crepe, chiffon velvet, ptastic film,
satin, surah, peau de soie, shantung,
brocade
MEDIUM WEIGHT — gingham, seersucker,
madras, percatei pigUei linen, ehiniz. f^
fine cordurby:, velveteen, suitings, vinyl,,
terry cloth, challis. twill
MEDIUM HEAVY — gabardine, tweed, sail-
cloth, duck, denim, coatings, drapery
fabrics, vinyl, deep-pile fabrics, corduroy,'
bonded fabric
HEAVY — overcoatings, upholstery fabrics,
canvas
KNITS, WOVEN STRETCH , AND ELASTIC -
double knits, bonded, knits, spandéx, ny
lon tricot, ciré: tricot, jersey, panne velvet,
stretch terry
LEATHER — sUede, kidskih, calf, capeskih,
buckskin, cabretta, patent, cobra, lined
leathers, simulated leathers
VINYLS , (KNIT BACK)- suede, Imitatibn
reptile, crinkle patent, patent, embossed
and printed vinyls
WOVEN FABRICS (ALL WEIGHTS) - dec
orative straight-stitch topstitching
LIGHT AND MEDIUM WEIGHTS (WOVEN) -,
decorative twin-needle stitching
tDoes not apply to chainstitching.
ttSize 9 needle recommended for sewing only. For bobbin winding, use iarger size needle.
tttUse with mercerized cotton, “A” silk, or polyester thread in bobbin.
Fine polyester, nylon,
or cotton thread
Cotton-wrapped
polyester (FINE)
, 100% polyester
50 mercerized cotton ,
‘‘ÀY,ny:lpn:,; i,;,,'
“A.” silk
Cotton-wrapped polyester
100% polyester
50 mercerized cotton
' ' 60 cotton
"A" silk
Cotton-wrapped polyester
100% polyester
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton
40 to 60 cotton
Cotton-wrapped polyester
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton
40 cotton
Cotton-wrapped polyester
100% polyester
"A" nylon
50 mercerized cotton
, “A" silk
Cotton-wrapped polyester
100% polyester
50 mercerized cotton
■‘A" nylon
"A” silk
Cotton-wrapped polyester
100% polyester
50 mercerized cotton
“A” nylon
‘ A" silk
"D-silk’M ' L
(Buttonhole twist)
Cotton-wrapped polyester
100% polyester
50 mercerized cotton
Style 2020
(15x1)
Style 2020
(15x1)
Style 2020
(15x1)
Style 2020
(15x1),:
style 2020
(15x1)
Stylo 2045
Ball Point
Yellow Band
Style 2032
style 2045
Ball Point
Yellow Band
Style 2020
(15x1)
Style 2025
(twin)
11:
14
16
18
.14
11
14
16
14
16
18
14
9tt
8
threading the machine
THREADING
• Raise take-up lever to its highest position by
turning hand wheel toward you. Raise
presser foot to release the tension discs.
1. Lead thread from spool holder and snap it
down into thread guidepost A.
2. Raise console cover and thread the rear thread
guide by holding thread in left hand and guiding
it over wing B and into channel C.
3. Draw thread firmiy between tension discs,
down right-hand channel, and up left-hand
channel.
4. Thread take-up lever D by guiding thread
down over top of lever and then up Into
eyelet.
5. Lead thread from take-up lever down into
ieft channel and then Into lower thread
guides E and F.
• Thread the needie using the needle
threader. Refer to page 10 for instruc
tions on using the needle threader.
USING THE NEEDLE THREADER
The needle threader may be purchased sepa
rately at your local Singer Sewing Center.
Thread the machine in the usual way up to the
needle, then follow the instructions below.
Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle
to its highest position.
Lower the presser foot.
. Holding the needle threader by its tab with
the right hand, position U-shaped part of
threader under bar of needle clamp. Snap
threader up onto bar.
Slide threader over to left, as far as it will go.
I. Swing threader back just far enough to
clear the needle. Align metal hook of
threader with the eye of the needle.
Swing threader forward so that hook passes
through eye of needle.
10
3. Holding approximately 3 inches (7.6cm) of
thread between your hands, loop thread
under metal hook. Leave slack in thread on
each side of hook. Release thread.
4. Holding threader by its tab with right hand,
draw metal hook and thread back through
eye of needle.
•
• Slide threader to the right off bar of needle
clamp. Carefully unhook thread from needle
threader.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
You will find a bobbin in place under the slide
plate of your machine. (To open slide plate,
simply draw it gently toward you.) If the bobbin
runs out of thread during sewing, you can re
wind it without removing it from the machine.
The window in the slide plate lets you see
bobbin-thread supply at a glance, to help
avoid running out of thread in the middle of
a seam.
Preparation Steps
1. Raise the take-up lever to its highest posi
tion by pressing lightly on the speed con
troller or by turning the hand wheel toward
you.
2. Raise the presser foot to release tension
discs.
3. Open slide plate and make sure bobbin is
empty. For removal of bobbin and thread,
see page 12.
4. Set pattern-selector release lever by turn
ing it clockwise, see page 14, and set stitch
control dials for straight stitching; stitch
pattern I , needle position/^(center)
and stitch width.
If pattern-selector release lever fails to lock
into place, turn the hand wheel slightly toward
you and then reset lever.
Winding Steps
Winding Steps
1. Move bobbin latch to right (wind position).
2. Draw needle thread back between toes of
presser foot, under left side of presser foot,
then up, into and around thread retainer, as
shown. Do not hold thread end. Start the
machine, running it at a moderate speed.
3. Pull thread end away after it has separated
from bobbin.
• Keep your eye on the bobbin as it fills.
Do not allow thread to wind beyond the
outside FULL ring.
4. Close slide plate to release bobbin latch to
sewing position.
To start sewing, pull thread back under
presser foot and cut. Place threads diagonally
under foot to right or left side, position needle
in fabric where desired, lower presser foot,
and start machine.
Step 4
11
Removing Bobbin
Open Slide Plate and Move Bobbin Latch to Left
Replacing Empty Bobbin
changing the bobbin
REMOVING THE BOBBIN
Raise take-up lever to its highest position.
1. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch to left.
2. Remove bobbin by inserting fingernail un
der rim of bobbin.
12
REPLACING AN EMPTY BOBBIN
1. Slip bobbin (slot on top) into bobbin case.
2. Move bobbin latch to right (wind position).
3. Leave slide plate open until you have fin
ished winding the bobbin.
REMOVING THREAD FROM BOBBIN
You can leave the bobbin in place while re
moving thread. With slide plate closed, pull
thread end through the plate with a steady
motion. Do not pull the thread across the feed
as this may damage it.
REPLACING A WOUND BOBBIN
Raise take-up lever to its highest position.
1. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch all the
way to the left.
2. Draw about an inch of thread from bobbin
and place bobbin in case.
3. Pull thread into bobbin-case slot (point 1),
draw it under flat spring and around to (or
slightly past) point 2, leaving two or three
inches of free thread. (Leave slide plate
open.)
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Set stitch width dial at .
1. Move bobbin latch to right (sewing posi
tion). Hold needle thread lightly with left
hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward
you so the needle enters plate.
2. Continue turning hand wheel and holding
needle thread until needle rises. Tighten
your hold on the needle thread and bring
up bobbin thread in a loop.
3. Open the loop with your fingers, draw nee
dle and bobbin threads under the presser
foot and place them diagonally to right or
left. Then close the slide plate.
Replacing a Wound Bobbin
Insert Bobbin
Draw Thread
Under Flat Spring
Around to Point 2
Flat Spring
Raising the Bobbin Thread
Step 2
Step 3
13
adjusting machine to your fabric
StitchWidth
Dial
Straight-Stitch Settings
1 ri
1 1
i
N
1
1 i
H i
1 1
1
J j
j i
Pressure Dial
j
-------
R
|_H_|
NeedlePosition
Ring
■ ■
1
■
SETTING CONTROLS
1. Set pattern-selector release lever by turn
ing it clockwise until it locks in place. If
lever fails to lock, turn hand wheel slightly
and reset lever.
NOTE: Do not attempt to turn pattern-
seiector release lever after it is locked in
place. It repositions itself when you start
the machine or turn the hand wheel.
2. Turn pattern-selector dial until stitch-panel
pointer is above | setting.
3. Turn stitch width dial to and turn needle
position ring to (center).
4. Attach straight-stitch foot and straight-
stitch plate (see pages 4 and 5).
NOTE: When alternating between straight and
zig-zag stitching use the zig-zag foot and zig
zag plate, and set pattern selector on zig-zag
setting I .
REGULATING PRESSURE
The pressure dial regulates the pressure that
the presser foot exerts on the fabric. The NORM
(normal) setting can be used for sewing a wide
variety of fabrics of different weight and texture.
Intermediate settings, above and below NORM,
are also provided. Generally lighter than normal
pressure is best for thick, soft fabrics. See
page 45 for adjusting pressure when sewing
knits.
Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.
• To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM
toward MAX.
• To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM
toward DARN.
• For darning, set dial on DARN.
•
14
REGULATING NEEDLE-THREAD
TENSION
The tension dial reguiates the degree of ten
sion on your needie thread and iets you select
just the right setting for your stitch, thread,
and fabric. The numbers on the dial eliminate
guesswork in duplicating settings.
Correct tension is important because too much
or too little will weaken your seams. To find
the correct tension setting, make a test on a
sample of your fabric. If the fabric puckers or
the bobbin thread is pulied to the fabric sur
face, decrease tension. If the surface or under
side stitches look loose, increase tension.
• To increase tension, turn dial to a higher
number.
• To decrease tension turn dial to a lower
number.
NOTEr The tension dial controls needle-thread
tension only. Bobbin-thread tension has been
correctly set at the factory, and you do not
need to adjust it.
Regulating Needle-thread Tension
SETTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch-length dial regulates the length of
both straight and zig-zag stitches. The num
bers 6 to 20 represent the number of straight
stitches per inch: the higher the number, the shorter the stitch. Generaily, shorter stitches
are best for lightweight fabric; longer ones for
heavy fabric. Curved seams, bias-cut seams,
and scallops require short straight stitches
(15 to 20) for elasticity and smooth contours.
Bound buttonhoies should be sewn with a
short stitch for durability and strength.
• To set stitch iength, turn dial to setting
desired.
•
• For reverse stitching, press diai ali the way
down and hoid in piace.
15
Pin Placement
When Seam Guide is Used
sewing a seam
PIN BASTING
Pin basting is a time saver and can be used
when you sew easy-to-handle fabric. Use fine
pins and place them so that;
• They are at right angles to the presser foot
and just nip into the fabric at the stitching
line.
• They do not extend under both sides of the
presser foot. Never place pins on the under
side of the fabric In contact with the feed.
• Sew, pulling pins out of fabric as you stitch.
We do not recommend sewing over pins.
For information on speed basting by maohlne,
turn to page 28.
16
PLACING FABRIC
Most fabric can be placed under the presser
foot by raising the presser-foot lifter to its up
position. When placing bulky fabrics, such as
coating, knit or terry cloth, or several fabric
layers, raise the presser-foot lifter to its high
position and make sure needle is at its highest
point. Hold lifter in position (since it does not
lock) while placing fabric under the presser
foot. Make sure the lifter is all the way down
before starting to sew.
Presser-foot Lifter Settings
STARTING THE SEAM
Always test-stItch seams on fabric scraps
before stitching your garment. This will ena
ble you to get the feel of handling the fabric.
Also, it will indicate whether tension, pres
sure, stitch length, needle and thread are cor
rect.
To avoid tangied threads on the underside of
the fabric. It is important to start and end
seams carefully.
• Raise the take-up iever to its highest posi
tion by turning the hand wheel toward you or
pressing ilghtly on the speed controiler.
Raise presser foot.
• Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot
and place them diagonally to right.
• Hoid thread ends and with a light touch on
the speed controller or by turning the hand
wheei toward you, position needle in fabric
about V2 inch from fabric edge.
• Lower the presser foot.
• Press stitch-length dial all the way down
and hold in place.
• Start machine and backstitch to edge of
fabric. (Do not sew beyond edge of fabric.)
• Release the stitch-length dial and sew In
forward direction.
•
Stitching to End of Seam
17
Using Guidelines /
Stitching Line
Pivoting at Corner
Using Seam Guide for
I Extra-Wide Seam
KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT
To keep the seam straight, use one of the
numbered guidelines on the plate. The num
bers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch,
from the needle. If you want a ®/8-inch seam,
for example, line up your fabric with the num
ber 5 guideline. Note that both number 5
guidelines (the most commonly used) are ex
tended on the slide plate for your conve
nience; the crosslines serve as guides when
stitching a square corner.
For extra help in keeping the seam straight,
you may wish to use the seam guide. Because
it allows you to guide stitches evenly between
Vs inch and 1V4 inches from the fabric edge. It
is particularly useful for very narrow or very
wide seams.
Attaching Seam Guide
Place screw in hole to the right of the slide
plate: line up straight edge of guide with the
needle plate guideline for desired seam width
and tighten screw.
TURNING SQUARE CORNERS
To turn a square corner % inch from the
fabric edge, you need not measure or mark
the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the
slide plate.
• Line up your fabric with right or left
guideline 5 on the plate. Stitch seam, slow
ing speed as you approach corner.
• Stop stitching, with the needle down, when
the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the
cornering crosslines on the slide plate.
• Raise presser foot slightly and turn fabric on
needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in
line with guideline 5.
• Lower the presser foot and stitch in new
direction.
18
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