When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions
should always be followed, including the following:
Read all instructions before using the sewing machine.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. An applicance should never be left unattended when plugged
in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet im
mediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type
rated max. 15 Watts.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to
persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary
when this appliance is used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in
this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the
manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug,
if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or dama
ged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nea
rest authorized dealer or service center for examination, re
pair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked.
Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot
controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose
cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being
used or where oxygen is being administered.
Page 4
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (”0”) position, then
remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug,
not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care Is
required around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can
cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the
needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine off (”0”) when making any
adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle,
changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser
foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet
when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any
other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruc
tion manual.
16. Machine has be stored in dry and clean rooms to protect
against rust.
SAVE THIS INSTRUCTION
Page 5
CONTENTS
Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine
Principal Parts — And What They Do
Accessories — And When To Use Them
..................
2
................... 2
-----
p
'age
6
Getting Ready to Sew
Preliminary Steps
......................
.......................
Choosing Needle and Thread ...
Threading Your Sewing Machine
Straight Stiching
........
Adjusting Selectors
Sewing a Seam ...
Zick-Zack Stitching
Satin Stitching ...
Twin-Needle Stitching ..
Preparation
...............
Threading the Needle
Buttons and Buttonholes
Buttons ......................
Buttonholes
...............
Sewing the Professional Way
Lingerie, Seam finishes ..............
Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics
Construction Details
...................
Aplique, Attaching elastic
Free Arm Sewing
.......... ............
Keeping Up Appearances
........
...........
..........
.
9
¡0
16
17
19
22
24
25
25
26
27
27
28
31
31
32
34
37
41
Caring for Your Machine
Cleaning the Machine
.................................
..................
.
Removing Bobbin Case, Face Plate and Bulb
Performance Checklist
24. Hand Wheel Disc automatically disen
gages clutch for easy bobbin winding.
25. Transparent Bobbin shows thread
supply... is easily removed for bobbin
winding.
26. Power and Light Switch turns on
the power and the sewing ligh?
simultaneously.
27. Electrical Connections and Speed
Controller are designed for con
venience and safety.
See instructions for connecting and ope
rating machine and controller on page 9.
' ^ i / and
/
/
j
\ 26 Power
' " / Light Switch
m
L, !L
S
Page 10
accessories... and when to use them
General Purpose
Foot
General Purpose
Needle Plate
GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT
AND NEEDLE PLATE
The general purpose foot and the general
purpose needle plate are in place on the
machine. Use them for all utility sewing,
with either straight or zig-zag stitching.
ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is used to place stitching
dose to a raised edge. It can be fitted to
the presser-foot shank for use on either
right or left side of the needle.
Special Purpose Foot
SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT
The special purpose foot is used for a!!
kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use
this foot for:
» Zig-zag satin stitching
® Appliqué
® Buttonholes
® Twin-needle stitching
Page 11
FEED-COVER PLATE
The feed-cover plate which allows free
fabric movement is used for darning
(page 43), embroidery and button sew
ing (page 27). By covering the feed
with the feed-cover plate the fabric is
not moveable.
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE
• Raise presser foot. (You do not need
to remove the foot.)
• Turn hand wheel toward you until
needle is in its highest position.
• Open slide plate with downward finger
pressure.
• Place thumb under needle plate and
draw plate to the right to remove.
• Insert new needle plate under locking
pin and over positioning pin.
• Close slide plate.
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
The presser feet that are supplied with
your machine snap on and off a common
shank. To change the foot:
9 Raise presser-foot lifter and turn hand
wheel toward you to raise needle to Its
highest position.
» Press toe of presser foot upward (as
far as it will go) and then snap down
to remove the foot.
• Center the new presser foot under the
shank and lower the presser-foot lifter
so that shank fits over the presser-foot
pin.
• Press down on presser-foot screw until
foot snaps into place.
Changing Needle Plate
Changing Presser Foot
Page 12
ACCESSORIES (Continued)
BOBBINS
Transparent
Bobbin
Regular Needle
(Yellow Band) Needle
Ball-point
Twin Needle
Transparent, drop-in bobbin,
thread supply at a glance.
shows
NEEDLES
• Type 705 H needles for all-purpose
sewing
^ Type 705 HS ball-point (yellow
band) needles, for sewing knits and
stretch fabrics.
Type 705 H twin needle for decora-
•tive twin-needle stitching.
ATTACHING FEED-COVER PLATE
1. Raise presser foot. (You do not need
to remove the foot).
2. Turn hand wheel toward you until Is
at Its habest position.
3. Slide feed-cover plate under the
presser foot, until securing pins are
located directly over holes in needle
plate. Then snap down.
Small and Large
Spool Holders
A
Detaohable
Spool Fin
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
The needle clamp is designed so that the
needle can only be inserted with the flat
side of the needle to the back. To change
the needle:
1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,
loosen needle-clamp screw, and re
move needle.
2. Insert new needle in clamp, with thé
flat side of the needle to the back; push
it up as far as it will go.
3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.
SPOOL HOLDERS
The spool holders hold spools of various
sizes in position on the horizontal spool
pin. Because spool does not turn, thread
unwinds smoothly.
DETACHABLE SPOOL PIN
The secondary detachable spool pin is
used for twin-needle sewing.
Page 13
preliminary steps
CONNECTING THE MACHINE
Before plugging in your machine, be sure
that the voltage and number of cycles
indicated on the plate under the hand
wheel conform to your electrical power
supply.
Push the machine plug into the receptacle
at the right end of the machine bed. Then
connect the power-line plug to your
efectrical outlet.
OPERATING MACHINE AND
CONTROLLER
To turn on both machine and sewing
light, press power and light swith to ON
position. To turn off machine and light,
press switch at „0” to OFF position.
Power and Light
\A^ARNINGl Turn off the po
wer and light switch before changing
needles, presser feet, and needle plates
and when leaving the machine unatten
ded. This eliminates the possibility of
starting the machine by accidentally pus
hing the speed controller.
To start the machine, press the speed
controller. The harder you press, the fas
ter the machine will sew.
To stop the machine from sewing,
remove pressure from speed controller.
Speed Controller
Page 14
choosing needle and thread
The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being
stitched. The table below is a practical guide to needle and thread selection.
Refer to it before startirjg a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and
type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE
FABRIC
DELICATE—tulle, chiffon,
fine lace, organza
LIG HTWEIG HT—batiste,
organdy, jersey, voile, taffeta,
crepe, chiffon, velvet, plastic film
MEDIUM WEIGHT—gingham,
percale, piqué, linen, chintz,
faille, satin, fine corduroy, velvet,
suitings, deep-pile fabrics, vinyl
H EAVY—overcoatings,
denim, upholstery fabrics,
canvas
THREAD
Fine polyester, nylon,
and cotton thread
50 mercerized cotton
"A" silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester
50 mercerized cotton
60 cotton
"A" silk
Polyester thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton
40 to 60 cotton
Polyester thread
Heavy-duty
mercerized cotton
24 to 40 cotton
Polyester thread
NEEDLES
Type Size
705 H 70
705 H
705 H
705 H
705 H
80
90
100
110
ALL WEIGHTS—decorative
straight stitch topstitching
in woven fabrics
KNIT, WOVEN, STRETCH
and ELASTIC FABRICS—
polyester doubleknit, spandex,
nylon, tricot, ciré tricot, jersey,
pan né velvet
LEATHER—suede, kidskin,
capeskin, lambskin, lined
leathers
LIGHT and MEDIUM
WEIGHTS—decorative
twin-needle stitching
in woven fabrics
10
"D"silkt
(Buttonhole twist)
"A" nylon
50 mercerized cotton
"A" silk
Cotton-wrapped
polyester
50 mercerized cotton
Polyester thread
"A" silk
Cotton-wrapped
polyester
50 mercerized cotton
t Use with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.
705 H
705 HS
Ball-Point
(Yellow Band)
705 H
705 H
(twin)
100
or
110
90
80
90
100
90
Page 15
threading your sewing machine
Like all sewing machines that produce
what is called a "lockstitch", your se
wing machine sews with two threads.
The upper thread comes from the spool
and is threaded through the eye of the
needle. The lower thread comes from
bobbin, the small transparent spool
that you wind using the machine. It is
best to wind the bobbin before the
needle.
THE SPOOL HOLDER
• Remove spool holder from spindle by
sliding it to the left.
• Place spool of thread on horizontal
spool pin. If spool being used has a
retaining slit, this should be placed
against the spool cushion on the right.
• Select correct spool holder according to
type and diameter of the end of the
spool being used. The diameter of the
end of the spool holder should always
be larger than that of the spool itself.
• Press spool holder firmly against spool.
Spool Holders
THE BOBBIN THREAD
Winding the Bobbin
• Raise the presser foot and turn the hand
wheel toward you until needle is at its
highest position.
• To disengage clutch, place your thumb
directly on bobbin symbol located In
side hand wheel disc and press down.
• Open slide plate to make bobbin
accessible.
• Lift out bobbin and close slide plate to
make sure needle plate is secure while
winding.
11
Page 16
THE BOBBIN THREAD (Continued)
Press Here
for Sewing
• Place spool of thread on spool pin.
Snap thread in the thread guide post
then lead thread around bobbin winder
tension disc, as illustrated above.
• Pass thread, from the inside, through
hole in bobbin and place bobbin on
spindle.
• push bobbin and spindle to the right
to engage the bobbin winder. Hold
thread end as shown and start the
machine, winding at moderate speed.
• Cut off thread end after a few coils
have been wound on the bobbin.
• When required amount of thread has
been wound (winding will stop when
bobbin is full), stop machine. Cut con
necting thread
• Push bobbin and spindle toward the
left to disengage bobbin winder. Re
move bobbin.
• Release hand wheel disc for sewing.
12
Page 17
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Open slide plate. Hold bobbin so that
thread unwinds in direction shown, and
put bobbin in bobbin case.
2. Pull thread into notch, draw it under
tension spring and back into slot.
3. Draw about three inches of thread
diagonally across the bobbin.
4. Ciose slide plate allowing thread to
enter slot between the needle plate and
the slide plate.
Page 18
THE NEEDLE THREAD
Lead thread
under ughx
Allow spring to return to its
normal up position and con
tinue threading the machine
Threading the Needle
1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever
to its highest position, and raise presser
foot to release the tension discs.
2. Place spool of thread on spool holder
and lead thread through all points as
shown, making sure to:
• Hold thread as illustrated while guiding
thread into tension discs.
• Thread tension discs as illustrated.
® Thread takerup lever from back to front,
guiding thread down over top of lever
and then up into eyelet.
14
• Thread needle from front to back,
drawing about 10 cm of thread
through eye of needle.
Page 19
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Now that you have wound the bobbin and
threaded the needle, you will need to raise
the bobbin thread through the needle hole
in the needle plate.
1. Hold needle thread lightly with left
hand and turn hand wheel slowly
toward you so that needle enters hole
in needle plate.
2. Continue turning hand wheel and
holding needle thread until needle
rises. Tighten your hold on the needle
thread and bring up bobbin thread in a
loop.
3. Open the loop with your fingers.
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads
under presser foot and draw to back
of machine.
You are now ready to sew
15
Page 20
1 i J
Needle Position
Before you move the selectors to set your
sewing machine for straight stitching,
turn the hand wheel toward you until the
needle is above the needle plate.
SETTING THE MACHINE
• Move needle position selector to X
(center).
I
• Set stitch width selector on •
STARTING TO SEW
« Place needle and bobbin threads under
presser foot and draw to back of
machine.
Stitch Width
• Position the needle in the fabric where
desired for stitching start.
• Lower the presser foot and start the
machine.
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of
fabrics, adjust stitch length, pressure and
thread tension as instructed on the
following pages.
16
Page 21
adjusting selectors for your fabric
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length dial regulates the length
of stitches. The numbers on the dial ex
press stitch length in mm; the higher the
number the longer the stitch. Generally,
shorter stitches are best for lightweight
fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. The
0—1 area is used for the adjustment of
zigzag satin stitching.
Setting the Selector
• Turn dial so that the stitch length
desired is positioned under the ▼
symbol on the control panel.
• To shorten the stitch length, turn the
dial clockwise to a lower number.
• To lengthen the stitch, turn the dial
counterclockwise to a higher number.
For reverse stitching, press the reversestitch push button (located in the center
of the dial) In as far as It will go and hold
in place (the button can be pushed in
while the machine is sewing). Release
pressure on the push button to return to
iforward stitching.
ReverseStitch
Push
Button
(For detailed instructions on adjusting
the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching,
see page 24 )
Reverse Stitching
17
Page 22
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
Pressure Dial
Adjusting Pn
Dial
ure
ADJUSTING PRESSURE
Numbered settings on pressure dial will
assist you in obtaining correct pressure
for fabric you are using. NORM (norma!)
setting is an all purpose setting for sewing
a wide variety of fabrics of different
weights and textures. Settings above and
below NORM setting are also provided.
When you need extra control, regulate the
setting to heavier or lighter pressure to
suit fabric being sewn.
When darning without an embroidery
hoop, set dial at lowest setting, ^ . See
page 42for instructions.
L o wer presser foot before setting pressure.
® To increase pressure, turn dial from
NORM (normal) toward MAX (maxi
mum).
® To decrease pressure, turn dial from
NORM (normal) toward W .
® For darning, set dial on ft .
Increase Decrease
Adjusting Thraad Tansion
REGULATING THREAD TENSION
Correct tension is important because too
much or too little will weaken your seams
or cause your fabric to pucker, Make a
test sample with fabric and thread you
plan to use and examine it. A perfect stitch
will have needle and bobbin threads
locked between two layers of fabric with
no loops on top or bottom and no puckers.
The tension dial regulates the degree of
tension on your needle thread. Set it
according to the type of thread and fabric
you use. The numbers on the dial eliminate
guesswork in duplicating settings.
If the stitches in your test sample look
loose, increase needle-thread tension. If
the fabric puckers, decrease tension.
® To increase tension, turn dial to higher
number.
® To decrease tension, turn dial to lower
number.
18
Page 23
sewing a seam
PIN BASTING
Pin basting is a time-saver and can be
used when you sew easy-to-handle
fabric. Use fine pins and place them:
• On top of the fabric (never on the
underside in contact with the feed).
• At right angles to the stitching line.
• Just nipping into the fabric at the
stitching line (never extending under
both sides of the presser foot).
STARTING A SEAM
1. Set stitch length dial for desired length.
2. With presser foot up, align fabric
with appropriate seam guideline on
needle plate (as described on the fol
lowing page). Position needle in fa
bric about 1.2 cm from the back ed
ge.
3. Lower presser foot. Backstitch to the
edge of the fabric for reinforcement by
pusfling in the reverse-stitch push
button located in the center of the
stitch length dial. Hold the button
until the stitches reach the edge of the
fabric and then release for forward
stitching.
Page 24
STRAIGHT STITCHING (Continued)
Using Guidelines
KEEPING THE SEAM STRAIGHT
As you stitch, use one of the numbered
lines on the needle plate as a guide for
keeping the seams straight. Numbers in
dicate distances in eights of a cm from
the needle. If you want a 1.5 cm seam, for
example, keep the righthand edge of your
fabric on the number 5 guideline.
Fabric after Turning
Pivoting at Corner
20
TURNING SQUARE CORNERS
To turn a square corner 1.5 cm from
the fabric edge, you need not measure
or mark thé seam. Simply use the
crosslines on the slide plate.
• Line up your fabric with right or left
guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch
seam, slowing speed as you approach
corner.
• Stop stitching, with the needle down,
when the bottom edge of the fabric
reaches the cornering crosslines on the
slide plate.
• Raise presser foot ^and turn fabric on
needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric
in line with guideline 5.
• Lower the presser foot and stitch in new
direction.
Page 25
GUIDING AND SUPPORTING
THE FABRIC
Most fabrics need only to be guided in
front of the presser foot. Some fabrics,
however, require support while being
stitched. Filmy sheers, panne velvet, and
tricots, for example, need to be held taut
in front and back of the presser foot while
being sewn.
\N/K F^N IN G!! Do not pull the
fabric while you are stitching as this may
deflect the needle causing it to break.
REINFORCING END OF SEAM
1. Stitch to the fabric edge.
2. Push in reverse-stitch push button
and backstitch 1.5 cm to reinforce
the end of the seam.
Guiding Fabric
3. Raise presser foot and remove fabric
by drawing it to the back and left.
4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of
presser bar.
Supporting Fabric
21
Page 26
ì i
/1 \ ^
Adjusting Stitch Width
L X J
Before moving stitch width and needle
position selectors make sure needle is
above fabric.
ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN
To produce a zig-zag stitch pattern, move
the stitch width selector from straight
stitch setting i to any zig-zag setting to
the right. Stitch width is increased as the
selector is moved to the right.
Buttonhole Sewing
Butto 1 Sewing
Most used Widths
Setting for
Single Needle
Work
Adjusting Stitch Placement
Too Tight
Decorative
Stitching
at Narrow
ADJUSTING STITCH
PLACEMENT
Most of your basic zig-zag stitching will
be done in center ( ) needle position.
Left ( ) and right ( J ) settings are
used for special stitch placement, as in
buttonhole sewing and button sewing.
ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD
TENSION
Zig-zag stitching requires less needle-
thread tension than straight stitching.
Make a test sample with the fabric and
thread you plan to use so that you can
adjust the tension properly. The stitches
should lie flat against the fabric without
causing the fabric to pucker.
Correct
Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension
22
If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is
puckered, reduce needle-thread tension
by turning the dial to a lower number.
Page 27
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
Any stitch length setting from 1 to 4 will
give you an open zig-zag stitch. The higher
the number, the more open, or farther
apart, your stitches will be. The stitch area,
between 0 and 1 bn the dial, is used for
adjusting zig-zag satin stitching (see next
page for specific instructions).
Stitch Length Dial
ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND CHOOSING
ACCESSORIES
Turn to page 18 under "Straight Stitching" for instructions on
adjusting pressure.
For information on choosing accessories, refer to pages 6 and 7
and to detailed instructions for sewing with zig-zag stitch patterns
included in the section called "Sewing the Professional Way" that
starts on page 31.
General Purpose
Foot
General Purpose
Needle Plate
Zipper Foot
Special Purpose
Foot
23
Page 28
satin stitching
Satin stitching—a series of closely spaced
zig-zag stitches that form a smooth, satin
like surface—is useful for both practical
and decorative work.
When you wish to produce a satin stitch
for appliqué or bar tacks, for example,
make a test sample first so that you can
adjust the stitch length and thread tension
properly. Soft fabrics may require a back
ing to ensure firm satin stitching.
ACCESSORIES AND
SELECTOR SETTINGS
« Needle Position; ^
Adjusting Stitch Length
Ji 3 4 5l
r-ri'-rrn n Tr
Incorrect
Correct
Adjusting Thread Tension
• Stitch Width: ^ to ^
• Stitch Length: 0-1
• General Purpose Needle Plate
• Special Purpose Foot
• Pressure: NORM
Adjusting Stitch Length
1. Turn stitch length selector dial to 1
(the beginning of 0-1 area).
2. Run machine at a slow speed.
3. Gradually turn the stitch length dial
clockwise until stitches are closely
spaced and form a smooth surface.
Adjusting Thread Tension
Satin stitching requires less tension than
straight stitching or open zig-zag stitch
ing. Futrhermore, the wider the stitch, the
lighter the tension on the thread must be.
Notice the stitching oh your sample. If the
fabric is puckered, lower the needlethread tension by turning the tension dial
to a lower number.
24
Page 29
By using a twin needle, you can produce
two parallel, closely spaced, decorative
lines of stitching simultaneously. You
can use either one or two colors of thread
and you can choose either a straight-
stitch or zig-zag stitch.
SETTIIMG THE MACHINE
Straight Stitching
• Needle Position;
Stitch Width:
• Stitch Length: Optional
• General Purpose Needle Plate
• General Purpose Foot
only
Zig-Zag Stitching
Needle Position: i only
Stitch Width: See illustrations at right
Stitch Length: Optional
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot (Open Stitching)
Special Purpose Foot (Satin Stitching)
Center Only
1 i J
Straight Stitchir>g
Maximum
Setting
Center ( X ) needle position setting must
be used. Stitch width must not exceed
settings illustrated at right.
Ceriter Only
1 i -i
Zig-Zag Stitching
25
Page 30
TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING (Continued)
Use twin needle. Type 705 H (size 90).
INSERTING THE TWIN NEEDLE
Before inserting the twin needle, make
sure you are using the general-purpose
needle plate and that the needle position
dial is set at X ^ ^nd the stitch width
does not exceed the settings shown on
page 25.
To insert the twin needle, simply raise
needle to its highest point and loosen the
needle-clamp screw. Remove the single
needle and insert the twin needle in its
place. Tighten needle-clamp screw
securely.
threading for twin-needle stitching
For best results, use No. 50 mercerized or synthetic thread. Thread the
machine as for single-needle stitching, except pass thread between center
and back tension discs, and through right eye of needle. Attach secondary
spool pin in hole on top cover. Pass thread from second spool through guide
(by-passing the snap-in thread guide post) as illustrated, then between
center and front tension discs. Thread through remaining points, making
certain to omit the thread guide above the needle and pass thread through
left eye of needle.
26
Page 31
buttons
Needl-e Position:
• General Purpose Presser Foot
• Feed Cover Plate
(left)
Flat buttons can be sewn on quickly and
easily using the plain zig-zag stitch. The
space between the holes in the button
determines stitch width settings. For
buttons vyith standard hole spacing, use
settings I and | as shown. For buttons
with unusual hole spacing, use setting j
and increase or decrease the width ( |')
as necessary.
1. Attach feed-cover needle plate (see
page 7).
2. Set stitch width at i and needle
position at (left). Position button
under foot and lower needle into
center of left hole by turning hand
wheel toward you. Lower foot. Turn
hand wheel toward you until needle
rises out of button and is just above
the foot
3. Set stitch width at medium-wide zig
zag ( I ) setting. Check stitch width
by turning hand wheel slowly toward
you; the needle should enter the right
hole of the button. Take six or more
zig-zag stitches to attach button. End
on leftside.
4. To fasten stitching, return to stitch
width ! and take three or four stitches.
Remove feed-cover plate from the
general-purpose needle plate when
work is completed.
27
Page 32
Horizontal Placement
on Crosswise Grain
Vertical Placement on
Lengthwise Grain
Buttonhole
Length Guide
Markings
buttonholes
BUTTONHOLE POSITION
Accurate guidelines are essential to keep
buttonholes a uniform distance from the
faced edge of the garment evenly spaced,
and on the grain of the fabric. For center
closures, place guidelines as follows:
1. Mark the center line of the garment as
indicated on your pattern. This guide
line can be hand basted and should
follow a lengthwise fabric thread.
2. Mark a position guideline for each
buttonhole.
• Horizontal buttonholes are pla
ced to extend 3 mm beyond the
center-line basting of the gar
ment. Horizontal guidelines for the
buttonholes should follow a cross
wise thread of the fabric, and, if
basted, be longer than the finished
length of the buttonhole. Determine
the length of the buttonhole (as
described below) and mark ends of
each buttonhole vertically.
• Vertical buttonholes are placed so
that the center-line basting of the
garment is in the center of the
buttonholes. Determine buttonhole
length and mark ends of each button
hole horizontally across the center
line and use the center-line basting
as a buttonhole guide when stitch
ing.
Button
Opening
Length of
Button
Opening
28
Button
Opening
Buttonhole
Stitching
BUTTONHOLE LENGTH
First, decide how long the button ope
ning must be. Then, add 2 mm to the
measurement for each bar tack (the
closing stitches at each end of the but
tonhole). To find the length of the but
ton opening, cut a slit In a scrap of fa
bric the diameter of the button you in
tend to use. Increase length of opening
until button slips through easily.
Page 33
STITCH WIDTH
Two stitch width settings are required for making buttonholes: one for side
stitching and one for the bar tack. Two possible combinations are illustrated.
Selector Setting
for Bar Tack
Selector Setting
for Side Stitching
Procedure
Set stitch length in 0-1 area of stitch
length dial. Attach special purpose foot.
Set the pattern selector at | , needle
position selector at and stitch width
selector at the width desired for the side
stitching. Place work under needle, align
ing center marking of buttonhole with
center slot in the special purpose foot.
Side Stitching
Position needle In fabric at point A.
Lower foot and stitch to end of marking.
Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise
foot and pivot work on needle. Lower
foot. Take one stitch without changing
width setting, bringing work to point C.
Bar Tack
Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks
and take at least six stitches. Stop at point
D.
29
Page 34
BUTTONHOLES (Continued)
Side Stitching
Readjust stitch width selector for side
stitching. Complete work to point E.
Leave needle in fabric.
Final Bar Tack
Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks,
and take at least six stitches ending at
point F.
30
i I
Fastening Stitch
To secure stitching, move selector to !
and take three stitches. Remove work,
draw threads to underside, fasten, and
trim. Cut opening for button with sharp
scissors.
Page 35
UNGERIE SEAMS
To make seams in lingerie durable and
flexible, use a combination of straight and
zig-zag stitching.
Method 1
For 1.5 cm bias seam in woven fabric:
• Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch
width at i ) on wrong side of fabric.
• Press both seam allowances in the
same direction. Then, from the right
side, top-stitch with narrow zig-zag
stitching, letting needle alternately
enter seam line and seam thickness.
Method 2
For narrow seams in nylon tricot:
• Cut fabric for 1.5 cm seam allowance.
For a 1.5 cm Seam
• Straight-stitch seam line on wrong side
of fabric. Then place a line of medium
wide, open zig-zag stitching close to
the straight stitching.
SEAM FINISHES
• Needle Position: JL
• Stitch Width: \ or % (maximum)
• Stitch Length: 1,2 to 3 mm depending on
choice of stitch and fabric
• General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
Seam edges support the garment and
should be given a durable finish if the
fabric is likely to ravel. There are two
methods of finishing seams in such
fabfics: trimming seam edge or over
edging. Make a test sample first to deter
mine which method best suits your fabric.
Page 36
hints on sewing special fabrics
LEATHER-LOOK VINYL
• Use masking tape or zipper adhesive
tape instead of pins or basting to hold
seams, zippers and hems in place for
stitching.
• Stitch with a long stitch (1 to 3 mm).
A short stitch may cut the fabric.
• Sew with a steady, even pace and
stitch accurately. Seams cannot be
ripped out without leaving needle
marks in the fabric.
• The shiny side of some vinyls tends to
stick to metal surfaces. Use a strip of
tissue paper between the fabric and
metal machine surfaces to prevent this.
• Topstitching holds seams and garment
edges smooth and flat and adds a
decorative note.
• Reinforce button and buttonhole areas
with interfacing. Bound buttonholes
are the best choice for vinyls with knit
Diagonal Stitching
Across the Point
backing.
• For sharp points on collars and lapels,
take one or two stitches diagonally
across the point to allow enough space
to smoothly enclose the seam edge.
CIRÉ (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot)
• Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to
hold seams, zippers, and hems In place for stitching.
• Stitch accurately; seams cannot be ripped out because needle marks
femain in the fabric.
• Sew seams under light tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and
back of needle.
• Stitch ciré taffeta with a fairly long stitch 2,5 to 3 mm and use an
enclosed edge finish for seams and hems.
• Stitch ciré knits with a medium length-stitch 2 mm and use a fine
ball-point needle.
• Machine-worked buttonholes (as well as bound buttonholes) can be
made in ciré fabric. Always use an interfacing and make sure the close
zig-zag stitches do not cut the fabric.
32
Page 37
DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur)
• Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place
pins at close intervals at right angles
to the seam line. Pins with colored
heads are easy to see gnd remove.
• Sew in direction of nap.
• Stitch with a fairly long machine
stitch(2,5to3mm)and use polyester/cotton thread in a size 90 or 100
Type 705 H needle.
• As seam is stitched, smooth pile away
from seam allowance with a darning
needle or upholstery pin.
• After stitching seams with a 1.5 cm
seam allowance, use small hand
scissors to shear pile from entire se
am allowance to reduce bulk.
• Stitch 6 mm pre-shrunk tape into
neckline and shoulder seams for sta
bility and reinforcement or stitch
with the straight stretch stitch.
• Leather and leather-look fabrics com
plement fur fabrics; use them for bound
buttonholes and easy button loops.
• Coat hems are less bulky If they are
narrow and finished with a 8 cm fa
bric facing or grosgrain ribbon.
Smoothing Pile away
from Seam Allowance
Deep-Pile Fabrics
• Slash through the center fold of darts
and finger-press open, or stitch with a
narrow zig-zag stitch and trim away
excess fabric after stitching.
VELVET AND VELVETEENt
• Use a light-pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile.
• Mark and baste with silk thread.
• Use a Type 705 H, size 80 needle, and a fine thread for seaming. "A"
silk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet.
• Always stitch In the direction of the nap.
• For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch under
light tension (see page 18). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine
basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch.
• To sew pann§ velvet, use a ball-point needle and a shorter-than-normal
stitch length (1.5 to 2 mm).
33
Page 38
At the notions counter i
Center, you will find
kinds of zippers, one of which
sew= The zipper package
easy-to-foiiow instructions
ting the zipper» And, with
foot, you wiii find it easy
even
seam is a
ment for
blouses, and lingerie. To
seam, make the welting
ready-made at a notions
t into the seam,
zipper foot
fs. clothes,
e a
steps, use
stitching dose
Page 39
TOPSTITCHING
A practical, simple way to accent the
lines of a dress or coat is to place one or
more rows of stitching along collars,
lapels, facing edges, pockets, seams, etc.
For a tailored look, use lines of regular
straight stitching; sew them with button
hole twist for added emphasis. For decora
tive interest, use a zig-zag stitch.
Topstftching
with Zig-Zag Stitch
Steps in Making a Dart in Interfacing
DARTS IN INTERFACING
• Needle Position: JL
• Stitch Width: § (maximum)
• Stitch Length: 1 mm or to suit fabric
• General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
With zig-zag stitching, interfacings can be
shaped without bulk.
1. Cut out the dart allowance on the
stitching line.
2. Bring raw edges together and pin or
baste in place over a muslin stay.
3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends of
dart for reinforcement.
Step 2
Step3
35
Page 40
APPLIQUÉ
Applique adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You
can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book,
or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture
combine equally well.
A closely spaced zig-zag stitch is most commonly used in appliqué work.
Athough you may vary stitch width to accomodate fabric weave or tex
ture, never allow the stitch to be too wide.
Preparation
• Baste appliqué design to fabric.
• Outline design with straight stitching
(use a short stitch).
• Remove basting and press.
• Attach special purpose foot.
Appliquéing
1. Set machine for desired stitch width.
Adjust stitch length in the 0-1 area of
the stitch length dial.
2. Outline the entire design with appliqué
stitching.
3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges
of the stitching with embroidery
scissors.
ATTACHING ELASTIC
Elastic will remain stretchable when it is
attached with the plain zig-zag stitch.
The flexible joining produced by this
stitch allows elastic banding to be
stitched under, over, or between fabric
layers, making it particularly useful in the
construction of lingerie and swimsuits.
• Needle Position:
Attaching Elastic with
Plain Zig-Zag
36
• Stitch Width:
• Stitch Length: About 1.25 mm
• General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
(maximum)
Page 41
free arm sewing
Free arm sewing simplifies fabric hand
ling when you sew circular and hard-to-
-reach garment areas. A few of the
sewing jobs for which you will find it
particularly useful are illustrated. To
prepare your machine for free arm se
wing, press the extension table release
push-button and remove the extension
table.
Page 42
FREE ARM SEWING (Continued)
38
HATS, BAGS AND DOLLS'
CLOTHES
Use the free arm of your machine
when you make hats, bags and dolls’
clothes. You will find it a real advan
tage for seaming small circular areas,
and in the placement of decorative top
stitching.
Page 43
GUFFS
Attaching a cuff to a gathered sleeve
or accenting it with decorative top sti
tching is greatly simplified when you
use the free arm. The fabric flows smo
othly around the bed giving you full
visibility and control of the seam line.
Page 44
FREE ARM SEWING (Continued)
BADGES, EMBLEMS AND
INSIGNIA
Badges, emblems and insignia of all
sizes and shapes can be quickly atta
ched to shirts and uniforms when the
free arm is used. Slip the sleeve or
other hard-to-reach area over the free
arm and secure emblem with zig-zag
sewing.
Page 45
keeping up appearances
MENDING
The zig-zag stitch is just as useful for
mending as it for creative sewing. It forms
a flexible bond for repairing tears or se
wing stretch garments.
Mending a Tear
• Needle Position: JL
• Stitch Width: \ or % (maximum)
• Stitch Length: About 1 mm
• General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
1. Trim ragged edges.
2. Place underlay on the wrong side of
tear for reinforcement. (It is best not
to baste or pin the underlay since you
will be bringing the edges of tear
together in the next step.)
3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the
edges of the tear together.
4. Shorten stitch length at ends and
corners to give extra strength.
5. Trim underlay.
Bar Tacks
Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain, are
made with the zig-zag stitch at satin stitch
length. Use them at pocket comers, to at
tach garters, secure shoulder straps, belt
loops and zipper openings.
Tear Mended with
Zigzag Sdlch
Bar-Ta<d(ed Belt Loof»
41
Page 46
KEEPING UP APPEARANCES (Continued)
DARNING
Worn or torn spots on children's clothes,
knits, and household linens can be darned
effortlessly and quickly with little practice.
You may choose to darn either with or
without an embroidery hoop. When
greater control is needed, an embroidery
hoop is usually best.
Darning without Embroidery Hoop
® Needle Position: ^
s
® Stitch Width: •
® Stitch Length: 2mm
® General-Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
® Pressure: ^
Darning Without
Embroidery Hoop
1. If the area to be darned is open, baste an
underlay in place.
2. Place area to be darned under presser
foot; lower presser foot and start
stitching, alternately drawing fabric
toward you and pulling it gently away
from you.
3. Continue this forward and backward
motion as you til! the area with parallel
fines of stitching. For additional
® Stitch Length: 1 or to suit fabric
® General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
Stretch Garment Repair
42
Seams and hems in stretch and elasticized
garments retain their elasticity when stit
ched with the zig-zag stitch. This stitch is
particulary effective when used in top-
stitch applications (as shown) or to over
edge, Make a test sample to check selec
tor settings.
Page 47
Darning with Embroidery Hoop^
• Needle Position; JL
• Stitch Width: !
• Stitch Length; In 0-1 Area
• Feed Cover Plate
® No Presser Foot
• Presser Bar: Lowered
Preparation
Remove presser toot with shank (by
removing the screw which fastens the
shank to the presser bar). Attach feedcover needle plate. Instruction for at
taching the feet-cover plate is given on
page 8.
1. Trim ragged edges from area to be
darned.
2. Center worn section in embroidery
hoop.
3. Position work under needle over feedcover plate and lower presser bar to
engage tension.
4. Hold needle thread loosely with left
hand, turn hand wheel over and draw
bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold
both thread ends and lower needle
into fabric.
5. Outline area to be darned with running
stitches for reinforcement.
6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop
under needle at a slight angle from
lower left to upper right. Keep lines of
stitching closely spaced and even in
length.
7. When opening is filled, cover area with
crosswise lines of stitching.
This method of controlling fabric move
ment with an embroidery hoop may be
used to do embroidering and mono-
gramming.
■’^Embroidery Hoop not included with machine
accessories.
Darning With Embroidery Hoop
43
Page 48
cleaning the machine
Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few
moments of your time to keep it clean. How often you will need to clean the
machine will depend on how often you use it.
WARNING: Before cleaning your machine^ disconnect power-
-line plug from electrical supply.
Clean between
tension discs
Clean
y
Remove lint frdm exposed parts.
With a soft cloth, clean:
• Tension discs, take-up lever, and
thread guides.
• Presser bar and needle bar.
• Bobbin case. (If there is an excessive
amount of lint in the area, remove the
bobbin case for cleaning. See page 45
for instructions.)
• Machine surface. (If necessary, dahnpen
thecloth and use a mild soap.)
Remove face plate as instructed on page
45 and clean area behind it with a lint
brush.*
Remove needle plate as instructed on
page 7 and, using a brush, clean the
rotating hook area under the needle plate
and slide plate.
NOTE: Your machine requires oiling at
only one point under normal condi
tions.
* Brush not included with machine accessories.
Page 49
removing bobbin case, face plate
and buib
DANGER: Before removing
bobbin case, face piate and iight buib
disconnect power-iine puig from eiectri-
cal supply.
REMOVING AND REPLACING
BOBBIN CASE
• Raise the presser foot.
• Turn hand wheel toward you until
needle is above the presser foot.
• Remove needle plate as instructed on
pa§dl.
® Remove bobbin.
To remove bobbin case, turn bobbin case
holder to back as far as it will go. Lift out
bobbin case.
To replace bobbin case, guide the forked
end under the feed and then draw the
bobbin case under the position plate as
illustrated. Turn holder all the way forward
to lock bobbin case in position. After
locking bobbin case in position, check
that bobbin case is not jammed, but has
slight rotational movement.
® Replace needle plate.
• Fully close slide plate.
REMOVING FACE PLATE
• Loosen and remove screw and remove
face plate by sliding it downward.
REPLACMG FACE PLATE
® Slide face plate up so that rim is en
gaged under edge cf top cover.
® Align screw hole at lower edge of plate
with screw hole in machine and replace
and tighten screw.
45
Page 50
CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE (Continued)
Locks
Unlocks
This machine
is designed to
use a 15 watt
maximum light
bulb
Th/s machine is designed to use a 15
watt maximum light bulb.
CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB
Disconnect power-line plug from elec
trical supply.
Removing the Bulb
With thumb and forefinger lower the light
bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew bulb.
Press it up into socket and at same time
turn bulb over in direction shown to
unlock bulb pin.
Raise Presser Foot
and Needle
Lift Retaining
Spring into Slide
Plate Grooves
Replacing the Bulb
Press new bulb into socket with bulb pin
entering slot of socket, and turn it over in
direction shown to lock bulb in position.
Release bracket, and entire assembly will
snap back Into recess.
REPLACING THE SLIDE PLATE
You will not have any occasion to remove
the slide plate. However, if it should
accidentally become disengaged from
the machine, it is easily replaced.
• Raise presser foot and needle.
• Place slide plate In slideway with the
front edge close to, but not covering,
the retaining spring (as shown in illu
stration).
• With a screwdriver, lift each end of the
spring into each of the side grooves on
the underside of the slide plate.
Replacing the Slide Plate
46
« Draw the plate gently toward you and
fully engage the spring.
• Close slide plate.
Page 51
performance checklist
Should sewing difficulty be encountered, review the sections of this
instruction book that explain the sewing operation you are performing, if
the problem still exists, the following hints will help you correct it.
If the machine does not sew; make sure . . .
• Machine is connected to electrical supply.
• Power and light switch Ison.
® Hand wheel disc is in sewing position. (See page 12.)
If needle bar moves but stitch is not formed, make sure » .
• Needle is straight and sharp.
e Needle size is correct for the thread you are using. (See page 10.)
« Machine is correctly threaded.
• Bobbin contains thread.
« Bobbin and bobbin case are correctly inserted in machine.
• Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.
If fabric does not move, make sure ...
• Presser foot Is down and that pressure dial Is adjusted for the weight and
texture of your fabric.
« Stitch length selector is correctly set.
® Feed-cover plate has been removed from the general purpose needle
plate.
® All lint is removed from around the feed.
To avoid breaking of needles, make sure . . .
« Needle is not bent and that It is correct for machine, and
proper size for the thread you are using.
• Needle is fully inserted in needle clamp.
• Twin needle does not strike needle plate when doing twin-needle
stitching. (See page 25.)
• Presser-foot shank is securely fastened to presser bar.
• Needle plate is correctly seated and slide plate is fully closed.
• Fabric being guided of supported behind the needle is not being pulled
too hard or too fast.
47
Page 52
PERFORMANCE CHECKLIST (Continued)
If Stitching is irregular, or needle thread breaks, make sure ...
Machine is correctly threaded.
Thread is even and free from knots.
Needle is straight and sharp, and correct size for thread.
Needle-thread tension is not too tight.
Bobbin case is correctly threaded and properly inserted.
Threads are correctly placed under presser foot when you start to sew.
Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.
Bobbin or bobbin case is not damaged.
Also remember to ...
Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle and take-up lever.
Raise needle above fabric before making adjustments to stitch width and
needle position.
Start and finish sewing with take-up lever in its highest position.
Adjust stitch length, pressure, and thread tension to suit your fabric
Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting a sewing job.
Lower presser foot before setting pressure dial.
Tighten hand wheel knob and disengage bobbin winder after winding a
bobbin.
Remove feed-cover needle plate after button sewing and after darning
with an embroidery hoop.
Clean your machine periodically.
CAUTION
Do not attempt to adjust the motor drive belt.
Refer to your nearest Service Centre
should any adjustment be required.
48
Page 53
The machine is intended for household use.
Voltage rating
Rated frequency
Lrght bulb power (1 amp) .................................................... max 12 Watts
Appliances class II — machine does not require earthing
Read all Instructions before using the sewing machine.
DANGER
An appliance should never be left unatlended when plugged in.
Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately
after using and before cleaning.
WARNINGS
1. Never operate the appliance with the air openings blocked.
Keep the air openings free of lint, hair, loose clothes and the
like.
2. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is requi
red around the sewing machine needle.
3. Do not use bent needles.
4. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause
the needle to break.
5. Do not pull or push fabric while slitching. It may deflect the
needle causing it to break.
6. Switch the sewing machine off „0” when making any adjust
ments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing
needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the
like.
7. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user
servicing adjustments mentioned the instruction manual.
8. Operate sewing machine only when mounted in sewing machi
ne table, case, and the like.
9. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type
rated max 15 Watts.
10. Sewing machine has a DOUBLE ELECTRICAL INSULATION.
Replacement parts for a double insulated product must be iden
tical to those parts in the product.
Page 54
Page 55
NEW SEWING MACHINE WARRANTIES
MECHANICAL MODELS
(applies to machines other than the Touch-Tronic* and Creative Touch* Fashion Machine Models)
LIMITED 10 YEAR WARRAKrY
SEWING MACHINE HEAD
If any manufacturing defect appears in the sewing machine head or any of its parts other thafi those
listed below within 10 years of purchase, we will repair it free of charge.
LIMITED 2 YEAR WARRANTY
MOTORS, LIGHT ASSEMBLY, WIRING, SWITCHES
AND SPEED CONTROLS
If any manufacturing defect appears in tliese parts within 2 years of purchase, we will repair it free of
charge.
LIMITED 90 DAY WARRANTY
ADJUSTMENTS, BELTS, RINGS, BULBS and ATTACHMENTS
Within 90 days of purchase we will provide, free of charge, required adjustments. During the same period
we will also replace, free of charge, defective belts, bobbin winder rubber rings, light bulbs, or
attachments, if any.
GENERAL
THESE WARRANTIES fvV\Y ONLY BE USED BY THE ORIGINAL CONSUMER OWNER OF THE
SEWING MACHINE; THEY ARE NOT TRANSFERABLE TO ANY SUBSEQUENT OWNERS. SERVICE
UNDER THESE WARRANTIES MAY ONLY BE OBTAINED WITHIN THE 48 CONTIGUOUS STATES,
ALASKA AND HAWAII.
Service under the above warranties may be obtained by returning the sewing machine v/ th t'ni5 warranty
document and proof of purchase to your place of purchase or authorized service center as listed on the
back of this sheet. Please consult your phone book for the location nearest you. If you have any
questions reguarding these warranties, you may write to:
SINGER SEWING COMPANY
200 METROPLEX DRIVE
EDISON, NJ 08817
This sewing machine is warranted only in normal household (non-commercial) use. These warranties do
not cover failures caused by abuse, lack of maintenance in accordance with SINGER care and cleaning
instructions, misuse, or events beyond our control. These warranties give you specific legal rigfits, and
you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION THE WARRANTIES OF
MERCflANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. APPLICABLE TO THIS SEWING
MACHINE IS LIMITED IN DURATION TO THE DURATION OF THIS W.RITTEN WARRANTY. SINGER
SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL ECONOMIC DAMAGES RESULTING FROM BREACH
OF THIS WARRANTY OR ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY. Some states do not allow limitations on how long
an implied warranty will last or the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential darriages, so the
above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you.
The Singer Company does not authorize any person to create for it any obligation or liability in connection
with the above machines and parts beyond those set fourth herein.
THE SINGER COMPANY DISCLAIMS LIABILITY UNDER THIS WARRANTY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR
DEFECT RESULTING FROM THE USE OF OTHER THAN SINGER PARTS AND APPROVED SERVICE
IN THE REPAIR OF YOUR MACHINE.
To keep your machine operating properly, we recommend that you take instructions on use provided lor
new machine owners, follow the operating instructions and periodically have your machine serviced and
tuned by a sewing machine.specialist knowledgeable about Singer* Sewing Machines.