Simplicity sw210 User Manual

Sewing Machine Model SW210
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
& REFERENCE GUIDE
Simplicity S ewing Machine Consumer Helpline: 800-822-6691
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING MACHINE
When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:
DANGER
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.
WARNING
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, and electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventila­tion openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings.
6. Do not use this machine outdoors.
7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the off position then remove the plug from the outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use a bent needle.
13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine to the off position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot.
15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This sewing machine is intended for household use.
1
FORWARD
WELCOME TO THE CREATIVE WORLD OF SEWING WITH SIMPLICITY!
Congr new to sewing, a lifelong sewer, or returning to sewing, we at Simplicity Sewing Machines are dedicated to providing y tomer service to ensure you many pleasurable hours of sewing satisfaction and success.
Before starting a sewing project, here are a few recommendations to help you become acquainted with your new machine:
atulations on being the owner of a new Simplicity sewing machine. Whether you’re
ou with simply the BEST features, quality, and cus-
• Read through the instruction book and become familiar with the sewing terms.
• Review the machine, using the instruction book as a guide, to identify each part and function of the machine.
• Practice sewing on a variety of fabric scraps using various stitches and stitch settings.
• Make a stitch sampler of your favorite techniques in the instruction book, marking your machine setting preferences for future reference.
• • •
Thank you for choosing a Simplicity sewing machine.
If you have any questions or comments, give us a call – we’ll be glad to help you!
• • •
Simplicity Sewing Machine Consumer Helpline
800-822-6691
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
PRINCIPAL PARTS........................................................................4-5
ACCESSORIES .................................................................................6
SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE SET-UP
PREPARATION FOR SEWING .........................................................7
ACCESSORY STORAGE ...................................................................7
CHANGING PRESSER FEET.............................................................7
Snap-on feet ...........................................................................7
Screw-on feet..........................................................................7
FREE-ARM SEWING ........................................................................8
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR........................................8
DROP FEED ....................................................................................8
LEVELING BAR................................................................................8
STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTMENT. ...................................................8
CUSTOM STITCH SELECTION
STITCH SELECTION ........................................................................9
Stitch selector dial ..................................................................9
Stitch range dial ......................................................................9
Stitch width dial......................................................................9
Stitch length dial .....................................................................9
Reverse sewing lever ..............................................................9
Needle plate seam guides .......................................................9
STITCH SELECTOR TABLE .............................................................10
TENSION ADJUSTMENTS.............................................................10
Upper thread tension ...........................................................10
Lower thread tension ............................................................10
WINDING THE BOBBIN
THREADING YOUR MACHINE
WINDING THE BOBBIN...............................................................11
LOWER THREADING....................................................................12
Removing the bobbin ...........................................................12
Inserting new bobbin ............................................................12
Placing bobbin case in shuttle ..............................................12
UPPER THREADING .....................................................................13
Raising the bobbin thread .....................................................13
SEWING
SEWING TIPS................................................................................14
BEGINNING TO SEW....................................................................14
NEEDLE, THREAD & FABRIC GUIDE............................................15
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “A” STRAIGHT STITCH ....................................................16
Seaming................................................................................16
Basting..................................................................................16
Topstitching and edgestitching ..............................................16
Gathering..............................................................................17
Zipper insertion ....................................................................17
Piping insertion.....................................................................17
Narrow hemming..................................................................18
STITCH “A” ZIGZAG .....................................................................18
Overedging light to medium fabrics......................................18
Bartacking.............................................................................18
Satin stitch appliqué .............................................................19
Attaching buttons..................................................................19
Seaming light to medium weight knits ..................................19
STITCH “B” KNIT BLINDHEM ......................................................20
STITCH “C” THREE-STEP ZIGZAG ................................................20
Overcasting ..........................................................................20
Mending ...............................................................................20
Attaching flat elastic .............................................................21
STITCH “D” DOUBLE ACTION ....................................................21
Seaming nylon tricot .............................................................21
Encasing elastic ....................................................................21
STITCH “E” BLIND HEM ...............................................................22
Blindhemming ......................................................................22
Folk art appliqué...................................................................22
Decorative braid application.................................................22
STITCH “F” FAGGOTING .............................................................23
STITCH “G” SATIN SCALLOP HEM...............................................23
STITCH “H” DECORATIVE TOPSTITCHING .................................23
STITCH “I” MULTI-CORD SEWING ..............................................23
STITCH “J, K, L” BUTTONHOLE STITCH ......................................24
Classic buttonhole ................................................................24
Corded buttonhole................................................................24
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “S” STRETCH STITCH RANGE
STITCH “A” TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH...........................................25
Seaming bias curves .............................................................25
Seaming double knits............................................................25
Triple topstitching .................................................................25
STITCH “A” RICK RACK ................................................................26
Overcasting heavy fabrics .....................................................26
Decorative rick rack..............................................................26
STITCH “B” ARROWHEAD...........................................................26
Decorative flat fell seam .......................................................26
STITCH “C” HONEYCOMB ..........................................................27
Attaching ribbon ...................................................................27
Mock smocking ....................................................................27
STITCH “D” OVERCASTING.........................................................27
Attaching rib trim..................................................................27
STITCH “E” ELASTIC OVERLOCK .................................................28
Decorative ribbon casing ......................................................28
Picot hem .............................................................................28
STITCH “F” FEATHER STITCH.......................................................29
STITCH “G” DECORATIVE TRIM...................................................29
STITCH “H” DECORATIVE EDGING.............................................29
STITCH “I” CROSS STITCH ...........................................................29
FREE-MOTION SEWING
MONOGRAMMING .....................................................................30
OUTLINE QUILTING ....................................................................30
DARNING.....................................................................................30
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
NEEDLES.......................................................................................31
CLEANING FEED TEETH AND SHUTTLE AREA ............................31
CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB.....................................................31
OILING .........................................................................................31
TROUBLESHOOTING .............................................................32-33
3
KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
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FRONT VIEW
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CK VIEW
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KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
FRONT VIEW
1 FACE COVER
O
Opens to provide access to the light bulb and the presser foot pressure regulator.
14
PRESSER FOOT HOLDER
O
Holds the snap-on presser foot in sewing position. The presser foot holder is remo screw-on feet.
ved when using
2 BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISC
O
Used when threading machine for bobbin winding.
3 THREAD TENSION DIAL
O
Controls the upper thread for proper stitch formation.
4 STITCH WIDTH DIAL
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Sets the width of a stitch.
5 STITCH SELECTOR DIAL
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Turn the dial in either direction to select a stitch.
6 STITCH RANGE DIAL
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Turn the dial to “N” (normal) to sew buttonholes and stitches color-coded blue. Turn the dial to “S” (stretch) to sew stitches color-coded red.
7 BOBBIN WINDER SPINDLE
O
Winds thread on a bobbin for lower threading.
8 HAND WHEEL
O
Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the needle up and down.
9 REVERSE LEVER
O
Press this lever down and hold in place to sew in reverse.
10 STITCH LENGTH DIAL
O
Sets the length of the stitch.
11 FREE-ARM COVER
O
Provides a flat surface for most sewing. Remove it to convert to free-arm sewing.
12 FEED TEETH
O
The metal teeth under the needle plate that push or feed the fabric through the machine.
13 PRESSER FOOT
O
Holds the fabric firmly against the feed teeth for proper stitch formation.
15
NEEDLE PLATE
O
Supports the fabric while sewing. Has seam guide markings on right side.
16
PRESSER FOOT THUMB SCREW
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Secures the presser foot or presser foot holder to the presser foot bar.
17
NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW
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Loosen to remove needle in position.
BACK
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VIEW
18
ARRY HANDLE
C
Simply lift to carry the Simplicity sewing machine from one place to another
19
PRESSER FOOT LEVER
aise the presser foot and release the thread
Lift to r tension; lower to lower the presser foot and engage the thread tension.
20
THREAD CUTTER ON NEEDLE BAR
Use to cut threads after completing a seam.
21
POWER CORD RECEPTACLE
Connect the three-prong power plug here.
22
MAIN SWITCH
Turns the main power and built-in sewing light on or off.
23
STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTMENT SCREW
Adjust this screw if stitches sewn at the “S” setting are not forming properly.
24
RETRACTABLE SPOOL PINS
Raise the spool pin to hold the spools of thread.
a needle; tighten to secure a
.
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KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
ACCESSORIES
The SIMPLICITY sewing machine comes with the presser feet and accessories yo will need, conveniently stored in the free arm cover. This low shank machine uses snap-on or screw-on presser feet.
1
ALL-PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT - snap-on
O
Use for most straight and zigzag seams. The needle opening is rectangular to accommodate the swing of the needle in a
u
zigzag stitch. (The machine comes with this foot already attached.)
2
BUTTONHOLE PRESSER FOOT - snap-on
O
Use for sewing made-to-measure buttonholes.
3
BUTTON ATTACHING PRESSER FOOT - snap-on
O
Holds flat buttons secure for machine stitching in place.
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7
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3
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5
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2
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4
ZIPPER PRESSER FOOT - screw-on
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Adjusts to stitch close to either side of the zipper without catching the zipper coil.
5
BLIND HEM FOOT - snap-on
O
Features an adjustable guide for positioning and evenly stitching blind hems, topstitching, or edgestitching.
6
OPEN TOE SATIN STITCH FOOT - snap-on
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Satin stitching glides comfortably under the sole of this foot and the open toe provides clear visibility of stitches.
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9
7
OVERCASTING FOOT - snap-on
O
A pin on the foot holds fabric flat when overcasting fab­ric edges. The guide ensures perfect sewing alignment.
8
HEMMER FOOT - snap-on
O
Rolls fabric edge for narrow hemming.
9
EMBROIDERY FOOT - screw-on
O
Prevents fabric from “flagging” or popping wh free-motion techniques.
10
CORDING FOOT - snap-on
O
Grooves on the foot guide lightweight cords under the stitches for decorative applications.
11
BOBBINS
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Hold lower thread. These are “Class 15” bobbins.
en sewing
12
SEAM RIPPER
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14
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6
Use to remove stitching and to open buttonholes.
13
SCREWDRIVER
O
Use to loosen and tighten the presser foot thumb screw, needle clamp screw
14
FELT CUSHIONS
O
Fit on the spool pin beneath the thread spool, stabilizing the spool and preventing the thread from wrapping around the spool pin.
15
NEEDLES
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The most commonly used “universal” needles, size #11, #14, and #16, are included. This machine uses 15x1 household sewing mac
16
VIDEO – NOT PICTURED
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y-step instructions on basic operation of machine.
Step-b
, and needleplate screw.
hine needles.
SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE SET-UP
The Simplicity sewing machine has many conversion options for a multitude of sewing applications.
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
on/off
Fig. 2
g. 4
Fi
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
PREPARATION FOR SEWING
wer cord and foot control are one unit.
The po
Insert the three-prong plug into the machine [Fig. 1]. Insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet. Turn the power switch to “on” [Fig.1]. Raise the left retractable thread spool pin for most sewing [Fig. 2]. Raise both the left and right retractable thread spool pins for twin needle or dual thread sewing.
ACCESSORY STORAGE
Accessories and presser feet are conveniently stored in the free-arm cover.
Grasp the free-arm cover with your left hand and gently pull up and toward you to open the storage tray [Fig.3].
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
Your Simplicity sewing machine comes with both snap­on and screw-on presser feet. They're easy to change and each foot helps make a specific se
Removing and Attaching Snap-on Presser Feet
1. Turn the handwheel toward you [Fig. 4] to bring the needle to its highest position.
2. Raise the presser foot lever [Fig. 5].
3. Release the foot by pushing the presser foot release lever located behind the presser foot holder [Fig. 6]. Place the desired foot on the needle plate, aligning
4. the metal bar on the presser foot with the groo the presser foot holder [Fig. 7].
5.
Lower the presser foot lever to snap the foot in place.
ving and Attaching Screw-on Presser Feet
Remo
1. Loosen the thumb screw located on the left side of the presser foot on the presser foot bar [Fig. 8]. You may need to use the screwdri remove the screw all the way.
3. Remove the presser foot holder and foot [Fig. 9].
4. Attach the desired screw-on presser foot onto the presser bar.
5. Tighten the thumb screw with the screwdriver to hold the presser foot securely in place [Fig. 10].
ver. It is not necessary to
wing task easier.
ve of
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Note: After attaching a presser foot, select the desired stitch and turn the hand-wheel toward you several times to make sure the needle clears the opening in the foot. Some presser feet require a straight or narrow width stitch only.
7
SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE SET-UP OPTIONS
CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING
Free arm sewing makes it easy to sew hard to reach areas such as sleeves, pant legs, and necklines.
To convert to free arm sewing, grasp the left end of the free-arm cover and pull it out to the left to remove Slip the sleeve or pant leg on the free arm as sho sew [Fig. 2].
[Fig. 1].
wn and
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR
The pressure on the presser foot can be adjusted to accom­modate sewing on various weights of fabric to ensure proper fabric feeding and to eliminate skipped stitches.
1. Open the face cover [Fig. 3].
2. Move the lever until the desired pressure number is displayed in the opening of the lever [Fig. 4]. Standard setting is 2. To increase pressure move to a higher number. To decrease pressure move to a lower number.
Set lever at 1 for heavyweight fabrics Set lever at 2 for mediumweight fabrics Set lever at 3 for lightweight fabrics Set the lever at 0 for darning and free-motion sewing.
DROP FEED
The drop feed mechanism lowers the feed teeth below the needleplate. This eliminates the need to make stitch length adjustments. When the feed teeth are guided by hand, allowing free movement of the fabric in any direction.
1. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest position.
2. Open the face cover and set the presser foot pressure regulator to 0.
3.
Remove the free arm cover and open the front bobbin
er [Fig. 5].
cov
4. Push down on the drop feed lever and the feed teeth will drop below the needle plate [Fig. 6]. Push the lever up to return to normal sewing.
5.
lowered, the fabric is
LEVELING BAR
If the machine is not sitting on a level surface turn the
eling screw to stabilize the machine.
lev
1. Remove the free arm to access the screw under the leveling bar [Fig. 7]. Turn the screw to the right to lower the machine.
2. Turn the screw to the left to elevate the machine.
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 2
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTMENT
When stitches sewn at the stretch “S” settings are not properly forming, turn the adjustment screw with a screwdriver as shown below.
8
SIMPLICITY CUSTOM STITCH SELECTION
Each built-in stitch can be customized by making stitch length and stitch width adjustments.
he stitches are color-coded to correspond with the stitch length and width settings. Select a
T stitch, then set the stitch length and width dials within the color range. These color ranges are guidelines and may vary for some sewing techniques.
STITCH SELECTION
STITCH SELECTOR DIAL [Fig. 1]
To select a stitch, turn the stitch selector dial so the letter that corresponds with the letter above or below each stitch illustration is aligned with the indicator dot.
STITCH RANGE DIAL [Figs. 2 and 3]
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
There are two stitch range settings on this Simplicity sewing machine – “N” for normal stitches and “S” for stretch stitches. Align the “N” on the dial with the indicator dot on the machine when sewing the stitches color-coded blue and when sewing buttonholes [Fig. 2]. Align the “S” on the dial with the indicator dot when sewing the stitches color-coded red [Fig. 3].
STITCH WIDTH DIAL [Fig. 4]
The stitch width dial is numbered 0 - 5, representing the various stitch widths in millimeters. The higher the number, the wider the stitch. The yellow color-coding between 3 and 5 represent the width range for making buttonholes. To select a stitch width turn the dial until the desired width setting is aligned with the indicator dot.
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
STITCH LENGTH DIAL [Fig. 5]
The stitch length dial is numbered 0 - 4 representing the various stitch lengths in millimeters. The higher the number, the longer the stitch. To select a stitch length turn the dial until the desired length setting is aligned with the indicator dot.
1
5
3
7
2
8
4
8
1
When set at 0 the fabric will not feed under the foot.
REVERSE SEWING LEVER [Fig. 6]
Use the reverse sewing lever to secure the beginning and ends of seams. With the foot control depressed, push and hold the reverse lever down to sew in reverse. Release the lever to return to forward sewing.
NEEDLE PLATE SEAM GUIDES [Fig. 7]
T
he five seam guide markings on the right side of the needle plate are set at 1/8” intervals. The first mark is 1/2" from the needle; the second, 5/8” and so on. Align the fabric edge at a seam guide marking for a consistent seam width. The standard seam allowance width is 5/8”.
9
SIMPLICITY CUSTOM STITCH SELECTION
1
2
4
3
ANGE STITCH PATTERN
R
TITCH
S
WIDTH LENGTH FOOT FEED
TITCH
S
RESSER
P
D
N A Straight 0 0-4 All feet Up/Down N A N B N C
Zigzag 0-5 0-4 All-purpose Up/Down Knit blindhem 3-5 4 Blind hem Up 3-step zigzag 3-5
3 All-purpose Up N D Double action 3-5 3-4 All-purpose Up N E N F,G,H,I Decor
Woven blind hem 3-5 4 Blind hem Up
ative 3-5 1-4 Open toe Up
N J,K,L Buttonhole 3-5 0.5-1 Buttonhole Up
S A Triple stretch straight 0 3-4 All-purpose Up S A Rick rack 2-5 2-4 All-purpose Up S B Arrowhead 3-5 3 All-purpose Up S C Honeycomb 3-5 2-4 All-purpose Up S D Overcasting 3-5 3-4 Overcast Up S E Elastic overlock 3-5 3-4 All-purpose Up S F,G,H,I Decorative 3-5 2-4 Open toe Up
TENSION ADJUSTMENTS
The upper thread tension dial controls the amount of needle thread delivered to the bobbin case. Most thread tension adjustments should be made using the upper thread ten­sion dial. In some cases, the lower thread tension on the bobbin case may need to be adjusted for specialty sewing techniques.
ig. 2
UPPER THREAD TENSION
The numbers 0-9 on the dial represent upper thread tension settings. The higher the number, the stronger the upper tension.
Tension settings between 3-5 are most commonly used [Fig. 1]. In a balanced stitch, needle thread and bobbin thread interlock in the center of the two fabric layers [Fig. 2]. If needed, adjust an unbalanced stitch by turning the dial until the new setting is aligned with the indicator line on the machine [Fig. 1]. If the fabric gathers or the threads break, the upper thread tension is too tight [Fig. 3]. Loosen the tension by moving the dial to a lower number. If loops form on the underside of the seam then the upper tension is too loose [Fig. 4]. Tighten the upper ten­sion by turning the dial to a higher number.
Fig. 1
Upper thread too tight
Fig. 3
F
Upper thread too loose
Fig. 4
ROP
LOWER THREAD TENSION
The lower thread tension can be adjusted by turning the screw on the bobbin case slightly to the right (clockwise)
Increase tension
Fig. 5
Decrease tension
Fig. 6
to increase the tension [Fig. 5]. Turn the tension slightly to the left (counterclockwise) to decrease the tension [Fig. 6].
10
WINDING THE BOBBIN
For best results, use top quality, long staple, polyester or poly/cotton thread for all-purpose sewing. Skipped stitc thread. Use the same type of thread for both upper and lower threading for consistent stitch quality.
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 5
hes, broken threads, and poor stitch quality are often a result of using old or inferior
WINDING THE BOBBIN
WIND MACHINE.
1. To release the clutch for bobbin winding, pull out the
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin and bring
Fig. 2
3. Place the thread end through a small hole in the bobbin
4. Place the bobbin on the bobbinwinder spindle
5. Hold the end of the thread [Fig. 6] and depress the
Fig. 4
6.
7. Reengage the clutch by pushing the handwheel until
Fig. 6
THE BOBBIN BEFORE THREADING THE
handwheel until it clicks [Fig. 1].
the thread around the bobbin winding tension disc as shown [Fig. 2].
from the inside to the outside [Fig. 3].
matching the small groove on the bobbin with the spring on the spindle [Fig. 4]. Push the spindle to the right [Fig. 5].
foot control [Fig. 7]. When the thread has wound on the bobbin several times, stop the machine and clip the thread end close to the hole in the bobbin [Fig. 8]. Depress the foot control again to continue winding the bobbin. When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the machine. Push the bobbinwinder spindle to the left, clip the thread and remove the bobbin [Fig. 9].
it clicks into place [Fig. 10].
Fig. 7
Fig. 9
Fig. 8
Fig. 10
11
THREADING YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
LOWER THREADING
Removing the bobbin from the bobbin case:
1. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to
its highest position.
2. Remove the free-arm cov
er [Fig. 1].
cov
3. Open the hinged latch of the bobbin case and pull
the bobbin case out of the machine [Fig. 2].
4. Release the latch to remove the bobbin [Fig. 3].
Inserting a new bobbin::
1. Hold the bobbin case in your left hand. Hold the filled
bobbin in your right hand [Fig. 4]. Unwind about six inches of thread, making certain the thread unwinds over the top of the bobbin as illustrated. Place the bobbin in the bobbin case.
2. With the bobbin in the bobbin case, pull the thread
into the slot on the edge of the bobbin case [Fig. 5].
3. Pull the thread under the tension spring and into the
thread outlet [Fig. 6]. Leave about six inches of thread extending from the bobbin case.
NOTE: Bobbin must be turning CLOCKWISE [Fig. 7] as you pull thread from the bobbin case. If it is turning
counterclockwise, remove the bobbin from the case, turn the bobbin over, place it back into the case, and rethread the bobbin case.
er and open the bobbin
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 2
Fig. 4
Placing the bobbin case into the shuttle:
1. Open the latch of the bobbin case and hold it with the
long finger pointing upward [Fig. 8]. Place the bobbin case over the pin of the shuttle aligning the long finger with the notch at the top of the shuttle [Fig.9].
2. Release the latch and push the bobbin case firmly
into place [Fig. 10]. Close the bobbin cover. Note: Be sure the bobbin thread (about six inches) falls loose from the bobbin case and is not caught or tangled in any way.
Fig. 5
BOBBIN MUST T UR N
C LOC KW I SE
Fig. 7
Fig. 9
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
Fig. 10
12
THREADING YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
UPPER THREADING
1. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position [Fig. 1].
2. Raise the presser foot to release the thread tension [Fig. 2].
3. Place felt cushion on spool pin. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin with the thread coming from the back of the spool [Fig. 3].
4. From the front, slide the thread under and then over the hook-shaped thread guide on the left, so the thread rests between the hook and the metal tension plate[Fig. 4].
5. Bring the thread down between the tension discs [Fig. 5].
6. Bring the thread down the right slot of the threading path, then across to and up the left slot [Fig. 6].
7. Bring the thread through the take-up lever from right to left [Fig. 7], making sure the thread falls into the take-up lever slot [Fig. 8].
8. Bring the thread back down the left slot of the threading path [Fig. 9] and into the thread guide above the needle [Fig. 10].
9. Thread the needle eye from front to back [Fig. 11]. (Clip the thread end with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.)
Raising the bobbin thread
1. Make sure the presser foot lever is raised.
2. Hold the end of the needle thread with your left hand. Turn the hand wheel toward you with your right hand until the needle goes down once and comes back up, stopping when the needle is at its highest position.
3. Gently pull up on the needle thread [Fig. 12]. The bobbin thread, looped around the needle thread, will be drawn up through the needle hole.
4. Pull about six inches of both the upper and lower threads toward the back of the machine, placing them under the presser foot [Fig. 13].
Threading Diagram
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 3
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
ig. 11
F
ig. 12
F
Fig. 13
13
SEWING
Several synchronized parts of the sewing machine interact to form a stitch. The needle moves up and do thread through the layers of fabric. To maintain this perfectly tuned timing, here are a few sewing tips you'll want to follow:
• Always begin sewing with the needle in the highest position. Always place the needle in the highest position at the end of a seam before removing the fabric from the machine.
• Always turn the handwheel toward you, not away from you. Never “rock” the handwheel.
• Be sure to lower the presser foot before sewing to engage the tension discs for perfect stitch balance. This is an easy step to miss when sewing extr
• Gently guide the fabric as you sew; never push or pull the fabric under the needle.
• Don't sew over pins. Simply remove the pins as they approach the needle. Sewing over pins can damage your machine, nick the needle or cause personal injury.
• Use the proper needle/thread/fabric combination. See chart on page 15.
wn as the shuttle spins in perfect time so that the bobbin thread interlocks with the needle
SEWING TIPS
Fig. 1
a thick fabrics.
Fig. 2
BEGINNING TO SEW
1. Select a stitch. Make the appropriate stitch width and length adjustments.
2. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest position.
3. Raise the presser foot and pull about six inches of thread to the back of the machine and under the presser foot.
4. Place the fabric under the presser foot aligning the cut edge of the fabric with the seam guide marking on the needle plate. Position the fabric so the needle is about 3/8” from the beginning fabric edge [Fig. 1].
5. Lower the presser foot and depress the foot controller to begin sewing. The sewing speed is determined by the amount of pressure you apply to the foot controller.
6. To secure the beginning of a seam, take 3-4 stitches forward, then push down and hold the reverse lever to take 3-4 stitches in reverse.
7. Release the lever and continue sewing forward at a consistent speed while guiding the fabric along the seam guide marking.
8. At the end of the seam, press and hold the reverse lever to take 3-4 backstitches to secure the seam end.
9. Before removing the fabric raise the needle to the highest position [Fig. 2].
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Raise the presser foot and gently pull the fabric to
10. the left, releasing at least six inches of thread from needle and bobbin [Fig. 3]. Use the thread cutter on the back of the presser
11. foot bar to cut both threads close to the fabric [Fig. 4].
14
SEWING
NEEDLE, THREAD & FABRIC GUIDE
Knit Fabrics NEEDLE STYLE NEEDLE SIZE
Lightweight: Tricot Universal or Stretch 9/65, 10/70
Medium: Interlock, Lycra Universal or Stretch 11/75, 12/80, 14/90
Heavyweight: Double Knit, Velour Universal or Stretch 12/80, 14/90
Fake Furs, Napped Fabrics Universal or Stretch 14/90, 16/100
Woven Fabrics NEEDLE STYLE NEEDLE SIZE
Sheer: Chiffon, Fine Lace, Tulle, Georgette, Net, Organdy, Organza Universal 8/60, 9/65
Lightweight: Batiste, Chambray, Voile, Crepe de Chine, Silk Jersey, Handkerchief Linen, Sheer Crepe Universal 9/65, 10/70
Medium Lightweight: Challis, Gingham, Taffeta, Percale, Wool Crepe, Wool Jersey Universal 11/75
Medium Weight: Broadcloth, Chintz, Velour, Corduroy, Crepe Backed Satin, Faille, Flannel, Linen, Velvet, Pique, Poplin, Satin, Shantung, Velveteen Universal 12/80
Medium Heavyweight: Brocade, Denim, Felt, Flannel, Fleece, Gabardine, Quilted Fabrics, Textured Linen, Tweed, Twill Universal 14/90
Heavyweight: Double-faced Wool, Fake Fur, Heavy Coating, Sail Cloth, Ticking Universal 16/100
Leather NEEDLE STYLE NEEDLE SIZE
Ultrasuede, Ultra Leather Stretch 11/75
Vinyl Leather Point 14/90
Vinyl with Knit Backing Leather Point 14/90
Light to Medium Weight Leather Leather Point 12/80
Heavy Leather Leather Point 16/100, 18/110
15
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “A” - STRAIGHT STITCH
SEAMING
Use for seaming two or more layers of fabric together.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A 0 3 All-purpose
Align the fabric edge with the seam guide marking on the needle plate and begin sewing [Fig. 1]. T stitches in reverse (backstitch) to secure the seam. Continue stitching forward at a consistent speed, while guiding the fabric along the seam guide marking. Backstitch at the end of the seam [Fig. 2]. Use a shorter stitch length (2-3) when patchwork piecing [Fig. 3] or sewing sheer fabrics. Use a longer stitch (3.5-4) when sewing heavy, thick, or napped fabrics such as denim, polar fleece, or velvet [Fig. 4].
BASTING
Use a basting stitch to sew temporary seams. to use when y
ou need to test fit a garment before
sewing the seams permanently.
ake a few
It is ideal
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 2
Fig. 4
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A 0 4 All-purpose
Align the fabric edge with the seam guide markings and sew at a consistent speed. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end of the seam. After completing the permanent seam, pull the basting stitch bobbin thread to remove the basting stitches [Fig. 5].
OPSTITCHING and EDGESTITCHING
T
Embellish a garment or special project with topstitching. Use a contrasting thread
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A 0 3 Blind hem
color for extra dimension.
Attach the blind hem foot. To topstitch, place fabric so the needle is 3/8” from the finished edge of the fabric. Adjust the guide to butt up against the fabric edge [Fig. 6]. Lower the foot and sew, guiding the fabric edge along the foot guide [Fig. 7]. To edgestitch, place the fabric so the needle is 1/8” from the finished fabric edge. Adjust the guide, lower the foot, and sew [Fig. 8].
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
16
Fig. 1
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “A” - STRAIGHT STITCH
GATHERING
Create beautiful ruffles and flounces with the gathering technique.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A 0 4 All-purpose
Sew a row of basting stitches 1/4” away from the fabric
stitches 1/2” away from
Fig. 2
edge. Sew a second row of basting the fabric edge [Fig. 1]. Do not backstitch. Gently pull the bobbin thread from the underside of the fabric [
Fig. 2].Adjust gathers evenly by pushing the fabric
along the stitching.
ZIPPER INSERTION
The zipper foot is designed to allow you to sew close to raised edges. Easily and accurately insert zippers and covered cording or piping in seams using the zipper foot.
g. 3
Fi
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A 0 3 Zipper foot
h the zipper foot to
Remove the presser foot holder
. Attac the presser foot bar. Raise the needle to the highest posi tion. The foot can be adjusted to the left or right side of the needle by loosening the screw on the foot, sliding the foot and re-tightening the screw [Fig. 3]. To sew the right side of the zipper, adjust the zipper foot so it is on the right side of the needle and the needle clears the notch on the left side of the zipper foot [Fig. 4]. To sew the left side of the zipper, adjust the zipper foot so it is on the left side of the needle and the needle clears
h on the right side of the zipper foot [Fig. 5].
notc Use the straight stitch ONLY with this foot.
PIPING INSERTION
dd decorative detail to home decorating projects and
A
designer fashion looks by inserting covered cord
create or purchased piping within seams.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A 0 3 Zipper foot
Attach the zipper foot and adjust the sliding foot to the right side of the needle. Baste the cord or piping to the right side of one fabric piece along the seamline, using the longest stitch length setting of 4 [Fig. 6]. Place the second layer of fabric with the first layer, right sides together. Shorten the stitch length to 3 and stitch the seam close to the piping.
-
17
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “A” - STRAIGHT STITCH
NARROW HEMMING
The narrow hem foot actually rolls the fabric edge to create a narrow hem for napkins, ruffles, scarves, and dainty hem finishes on clothing.
RANGE STITCH
N A 0 3
WIDTH LENGTH FOO
T
Hemmer
Fold a 1/8” double hem to the wrong side of fabric, for about 2” along the beginning of the hem [Fig. 1]. Place the rolled edge of the hem under the presser foot. Lower the foot and take several stitches. Stop with the needle in the fabric [Fig. 2]. Raise the foot. Pick up the fabric edge and roll it into the scroll of the foot. Lower the foot and begin stitching slowly. Hold the fabric up and slightly to the left as you sew [Fig. 3]. Practice makes perfect with this technique!
STITCH “A” - ZIGZAG
OVEREDGING LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT FABRICS
The zigzag stitch is handy for ov and seam allo
RANGE STITCH
wances to minimize raveling.
WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A
Position the fabric under the presser foot so the right swing of the stitch forms just inside the edge of the fabric [Fig. 4]. Test the position by turning the handwheel toward you and manually "walking" the needle before you begin sewing. Sew, guiding the fabric evenly.
eredging facings, hems,
3-5 2 Overcast
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 2
Narrow hem
Overedging
RTACKING
BA
This stitch is excellent for reinforcing pocket corners and belt loops. Because the feed teeth are lowered, there is no need to mak
RANGE
N A
e stitch length adjustments.
STITCH WIDTH DROP FEED FOOT
4-5 Lowered All-purpose
Determine the location for the bar tack and position the fabric under the needle. Sew 4-6 stitches [Fig. 5]. Raise the needle to its highest position. Turn the stitch width dial to 0 and sew 3-4 stitches to secure the stitch.
18
Fig. 5
Bartack
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “A” - ZIGZAG
SATIN STITCH APPLIQUÉ
Use this popular, zigzag stitch creatively to sew appliqués.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A 3-5 0.5-1 Open toe
Fuse a fabric appliqué shape to a base fabric. Place a stabilizer beneath the base fabric [Fig. 1]. Satin stitch around the cut edges of the appliqué shape
Fig. 2
Appliqué
Fig. 4
guiding the fabric so the right swing of the stitch falls just over the appliqué edge and into the base fabric [Fig. 2].
ATTACHING BUTTONS
Use this foot to quickly and securely attach flat buttons.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH DROP FEED FOOT
N A 5 Lowered Button attaching
Attach the button sewing foot. Set the stitch width to 0. Position the button and fabric under the foot. Position the needle over the left hole [Fig. 3]. Turn the handwheel to make sure the needle clears the hole, and sew several stitc
urn the stitch width dial to 5 and reposition the fabric
T
hes to secure threads.
and button to the left slightly so the needle is again aligned with the left hole [Fig. 4].
Turn the handwheel to make sure the zigzag stitch clears the holes of the button. Adjust the stitch width, if needed. Sew 8-10 stitches [Fig. 5]. To secure the stitches, set the stitch width to 0, reposition the needle over the button hole and sew a few stitches. Remove the fabric and button from the
hine and clip the threads [Fig. 6].
mac
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
Seaming knits
SEAMING KNITS
A narrow zigzag stitch is very flexible and durable making it suitable for medium to lightweight knit fabrics.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N A
2 2-3 All-purpose
Align the edge of the fabric with the seam guide markings on the needle plate and sew the seam being careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew [Fig. 7].
19
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “B” - KNIT BLINDHEM
KNIT BLINDHEMMING
The zigzag in this blindhem stitch adds stretch, making it the perfect choice for hemming knits. Use a thread color that matches the fabric color for the best results.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N B 3-5 4 Blindhem
Turn up the finished edge of the fabric to the desired hem depth [Fig. 1]. Fold back, leaving a 1/4” edge [Fig. 2]. Place garment under the foot with the folded edge along the hem guide [Fig. 3]. Adjust the guide by turning the screw so that the fabric fold is against the guide and the needle just barely catches the fold as you sew. You may need to sew a few test samples on scrap fabric to make the correct guide adjustment on the presser foot. Stitch slowly.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
STITCH “C” - THREE-STEP ZIGZAG
OVERCASTING
The three-step zigzag is a strong stitch. It takes three small stitches to the right and three small stitches to the
Use the three-step zigzag stitch to overcast or clean
left. finish seam allowances.
It is easier to ov
edges first before seaming.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N C 3-5 1.5-2 All-purpose
Position and guide the fabric under the presser foot so the right swing of the stitch forms just inside the edge of the fabric [Fig. 4].
MENDING
Use the three-step zigzag to repair small rips and tears.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N C 3-5 0.5-1.5 All-purpose
Place a stabilizer under the tear in the fabric. Sew along the line of the tear [Fig. 5]. The stitch joins both sides of the tear.
ercast the raw
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Blindhem
Overcasting
Mending
20
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “C” - THREE-STEP ZIGZAG
ATTACHING FLAT ELASTIC
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N C 3-5 2-3 All-purpose
Place elastic and fabric under the presser foot. Take a few stitches to anchor the elastic. Adjust the width of the stitch to the width of the elastic. Zigzag over the elastic, stretching the elastic in front of
Fig. 1
g. 2
Fi
Fig. 3
the presser foot as you sew [Fig. 1].
STITCH “D” - DOUBLE ACTION
SEAMING NYLON TRICOT
Use the double action stitch for quick and easy, one-step seaming and finishing on tricot and other soft fabrics.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N D 1 1 All-purpose
For 1/4” seam allowances, guide the fabric so the right swing of the stitch forms just inside the edge of the fabric [Fig. 2].
or 1/2” to 5/8” seam allowances, sew [Fig. 3], then trim
F the excess fabric close to the stitc
hing [Fig. 4].
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
Elastic casing
ENCASING ELASTIC
Create casings for 1/8” narrow elastic in minutes for waistbands, cuffs, and craft items.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N D 5 4 All-purpose
Place the fabric wrong side up under the presser foot.
y the elastic on top of the fabric, under the center of
La the presser foot, and past the end of the fabric. Leave a 1/2” tail of elastic behind the foot. Begin sewing being careful not to stitch the elastic [Fig. 5]. When sewing is complete, pull the ends of the elastic until the desired amount of fullness is obtained [Fig. 6]. Secure the ends of the elastic with a straight stitch before sewing them into a seam.
21
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
STITCH “E” - BLINDHEM
BLINDHEMMING
Use a thread color that matches the fabric color for the best results.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N E 3-5 4 Blindhem
Turn up the finished edge of the fabric to the desired hem depth [Fig. 1]. Fold back, leaving a 1/4” edge [Fig. 2]. Place garment under the foot with the folded edge along the hem guide [Fig. 3]. Adjust the guide by turning the screw so that the fabric fold is against the guide and the needle just barely catches the fold as you sew. You may need to sew a few test samples on scrap fabric to make the correct guide adjustment on the presser foot. Stitch slowly.
FOLK ART APPLIQUÉ
Create the charming look of hand appliqué using the blindhem stitch set at a short
stitch length.
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 2
Blindhem (underside view)
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N E 4-5 1 Open toe
Fuse a fabric appliqué shape to a base fabric. Place a stabilizer beneath the base fabric to support the stitches [Fig. 4]. Stitch around the cut edge of the appliqué shape, guiding the fabric so the right swing of the stitch falls just over the appliqué edge into the base fabric and the left swing takes one stitch on the fabric shape [Fig. 5].
DECORATIVE BRAID APPLICATION
Add glitzy detail to home decorating projects by attach­ing purchased braid to the fabric surface.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N E 5 4 Open toe
Thread the machine in a color to match the braid. Mark the braid placement on the fabric. Place the fabric and braid under the foot and sew so the right swing of the needle falls to the right of the braid and the left swing falls over and to the left of the braid [Fig. 6].
Fig. 4
Folk art appliqué
Fig. 5
22
Fig. 6
Decorative braid
BUILT-IN DECORATIVE STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
Topstitching is one of the easiest and most attractive ways to use decorative stitches. Experiment using metallic, ra
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
yon, and variegated threads for additional detail.
The faggoting stitch is used in heirloom sewing to join two lightweight
Fold under each fabric edge 3/8”. Baste the edges to a
Faggoting
Fig. 3
water soluble stabilizer 1/8” apart. Place under the foot and turn the handwheel toward you to be sure the needle is penetrating at the edge of the fabric on both sides [Fig. 1]. Sew slowly. Remove stabilizer when stitching is complete.
Simply stitch and trim to create this lovely scallop finish.
Mark the hem finish line on the fabric with a washout fabric marker and stitch along the line [F bead of seam sealant along the stitches and let dry. Trim the fabric close to the stitching [Fig. 3].
STITCH “F” - FAGGOTING
pieces of fabric, such as batiste.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N F 5 3 All-purpose
STITCH “G” - SATIN SCALLOP HEM
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N G 5 0.5 Open toe
ig. 2]. Place a
Satin scallop hem
Decorative topstitching
Fig. 6
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Multi-cord stitching
STITCH “H” - DECORATIVE TOPSTITCHING
Stitch one or multiple rows of stitching along the finished edge of collars, cuffs, and hems.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N H 5 0.5 Open toe
Determine the placement of the stitching line, place the fabric under the foot, and sew [Fig. 4]. You may want to use a combination of stitches and threads. It may be necessary to use a tear-away stabilizer under the fabric for extra stability.
STITCH “I” - MULTI-CORD STITCHING
The cording foot evenly guides decorative threads as you sew them in place.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
N I 5 0.5 Cording
Cut three strands of decorative cords (pearl cotton, baby yarn, etc.) several inches longer than the finished length. Use matching or contrasting thread in the needle. Before attaching the foot to the machine, place the cords under the spring plate and into the slots on the front of the
ig. 5]. Attach the foot to the machine. Place the
foot.[F fabric and cords under the foot and sew [Fig. 6].
23
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “N” NORMAL RANGE
2 4
1
3
BUTTONHOLE STITCH
CLASSIC BUTTONHOLES
Your Simplicity sewing machine makes made-to-measure buttonholes in four easy steps.
J K L
[Fig. 1] Loosen the fixing screw and place the button on the foot between the white posts of the foot and the black prong of the fixing screw. Slide the fixing screw toward the back of the foot until it is snug against the button. Tighten the fixing screw and remove the button. Attach the buttonhole foot to the presser foot holder with the fixing screw toward you [Fig. 2]. Mark the buttonhole position on your fabric with a wash­out marker [Fig. 3]. Place the fabric underneath the foot aligning the needle with the starting point on the fabric. Push the buttonhole foot back. Lower the foot.
STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
Yellow range Yellow range Buttonhole
Fig. 1
Po sts
Fix ing s crew
Button
Fig. 2
Select stitch “J”. Sew until the needle returns to the
1. back of the presser foot
[Fig. 4]
. Raise the needle to
its highest position.
2. Select stitch “K”. Sew several stitches to make the first bar tack of the buttonhole, then raise the needle to its highest position.
3. Select stitch “L”. Sew until the white posts meet the fixing screw post [Fig. 5]. Raise the needle to its highest position. Select stitch “K”. Sew the final bartack .
4.
Raise the needle and presser foot. Remove the fabric [Fig. 6] and trim the thread ends near the stitching. Using the seam ripper
, carefully cut an opening in the middle of the buttonhole [Fig. 7]. Be careful not to cut any stitches. You may want to put a straight pin across both ends of the buttonhole to help prevent cutting the buttonhole bartacks.
CORDED BUTTONHOLES
Create a bolder buttonhole by stitching over a heavier thread or cord such as buttonhole twist.
Begin with a 10” strand of heavy thread or cord and loop its midpoint over the spur at the back of the buttonhole foot [Fig. 8]. Slip the ends into the slot at the front of the foot [Fig. 9]. Sew the buttonhole as usual and the stitches will form over the cord. Remove the fabric from the machine and pull the ends of the cord to hide the loop under the bartack [Fig. 10]. Snip the excess cord length [Fig. 11].
Fig. 3
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 10
g. 4
Fi
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
ig. 11
F
24
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “S” STRETCH RANGE
SEWING TIP:
When sewing stretchy fabrics such as Lycra or Spandex, a stretch needle is recommended (see Needle, Thread, and Fabric Guide on page 15).
Fig. 1
g. 2
Fi
Seaming stress areas
Seaming knits
STITCH “A” - TRIPLE STRETCH STRAIGHT
SEAMING BIAS CURVES
The triple stitch action of the stretch straight stitch offers flexible and durable seams. Use it to sew stress areas such as the crotch seam in pants or the slee
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S A 0 3-4 All-purpose
Align the fabric edge with the seam guide marking on the needle plate. Stitch the seam, guiding the fabric along the seam guide [Fig. 1]. The machine takes two stitches forward and one stitch back to create this durable seam.
SEAMING DOUBLE KNITS
The flexibility of the straight stretch stitch makes it ideal for seaming heavy or double knits.
RANGE STITCH
S A 0
WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
Align the fabric edge with a seam guide marking on the needle plate [Fig. 2]. Stitch the seam, carefully guiding the fabric edge along the seam guide.
ve underarm area.
3-4 All-purpose
Fig. 3
Triple topstitch
TRIPLE TOPSTITCHING
Use this stitch for a bold, contrasting topstitch.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S A 0 3-4 All-purpose
Stitch 1/4” away from the finished edge of the fabric. Use the outer edge of the all-purpose presser foot as a guide [Fig. 3] or use the adjustable blindhem foot as described on page 16 under Topstitching and Edgestitching.
25
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “S” STRETCH RANGE
STITCH “A” - RICK RACK
OVERCASTING HEAVY FABRICS
Sew on heavier weight stretch fabrics in any area you would use a zigzag stitch.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S A 5 2-3 Overcast
Position the fabric under the presser foot and guide the fabric so the right swing of the stitch forms just inside the edge of the fabric [Fig. 1]. Test the position by turning the handwheel toward you and manually “walking” the needle before you begin sewing.
DECORATIVE RICK RACK
An ideal decorative edge finish for neckbands, armholes, sleeves, and hems.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S A 3-5 2-4 All-purpose
Stitch along the finished edge of a project using a con­trasting thread for added dimension [Fig. 2].
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Overcasting heavy fabrics
Decorative rick rack
STITCH “B” - ARROWHEAD
DECORATIVE FLAT FELL SEAMS
Use to creatively topstitch flat fell seams in knits and wovens.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S B 5 2-3 All-purpose
First, straight stitch a seam and press seam allowances to one side [Fig. 3]. Select the stretch stitch B. Position the fabric right side up under the presser foot, with the pressed seam allowance to the left. Sew through all three layers [Fig. 4].
Fig. 3
Topstitch flat fell seam
Fig. 4
26
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “S” STRETCH RANGE
STITCH “C” - HONEYCOMB
DECORATIVE RIBBON ATTACHING
This stitch is ideal for decorativ or topstitch over ribbon or cording. Use a variegated thread for extra pizzazz.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S C 5 3-4 All-purpose
e topstitching. Use alone
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Decorative honeycomb stitch
Mock smocking
Fig. 4
Place the ribbon along the stitching line [Fig. 1]. When stitching over ribbon, it’s easiest to secure the rib­bon in place with fabric adhesive. Select a stitch width to match the ribbon width and sew.
MOCK SMOCKING
Recreate elegant smocking in a fraction of the time it takes to hand smock.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S C 4-5 3-4 All-purpose
Sew several rows of basting stitches on the fabric. Pull the bobbin thread to gather fabric to the desired fullness. Select the honeycomb stitch C. Sew between the basting stitches [Fig. 2]. Remove the basting stitches when complete.
STITCH “D” - OVERCASTING
ATTACHING RIB KNIT TRIM
This second overcast stitch is ideal for sewing knits and attaching rib trim because it seams and overcasts at the same time.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S D 5 2-3 Overcast
Fig. 5
Rib knit trim
For 1/4” seam allowances, guide the matched edges of the seam allowances along the right edge of the foot [Fig. 3]. For 1/2” to 5/8” seam allowances, guide the matched edges of the seam allowances along the seam guide marking on the needle plate [Fig. 4]. Sew, then trim the excess fabric close to the stitching [Fig. 5].
27
BUILT-IN STITCHES – “S” STRETCH RANGE
STITCH “E” - ELASTIC OVERLOCK
DECORATIVE RIBBON CASING
Create decorative casings for 1/8” narrow ribbon in minutes.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S E 5 4 All-purpose
Place the fabric right side up under the presser foot. Insert the ribbon through the front opening of the press­er foot, over the front and under the back. Leave a 1/2” tail of ribbon behind the foot. Begin sewing being care­ful not to stitch the ribbon [Fig. 1]. Straight stitch one end of the ribbon in place and push the fabric from the other end along the ribbon until the desired fullness is achieved. Straight stitch the other end in place.
DECORATIVE PICOT HEM
The elastic overlock stitch can be used to create a lovely picot or scallop edge.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S E 5 4 All-purpose
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Ribbon casing
Fig. 3
Increase upper thread tension slightly by turning the dial to a higher number [Fig. 2]. Fold under the edge of the fabric to be stitched. Place the fabric to the right of the foot, with the fabric edge to the left of the foot. Sew along the folded edge of the fabric so the left needle swing drops just over the fab­ric edge [Fig. 3]. The zigzag of the stitch puckers the edge to create a dainty scallop. Return the tension to its normal setting when sewing is complete.
Picot edge
28
BUILT-IN DECORATIVE STITCHES – “S” STRETCH RANGE
STITCH “F” - FEATHER STITCH
Crazy quilt patchwork is a wonderful way to use ran-
cellent project for using
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
dom-shaped fabrics and an ex
wing machine stitches creatively.
se
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S F 4-5 3 Open toe
Begin with a base fabric, such as muslin. Top the base fabric with quilt batting (optional). Pin a fabric piece, right side up, in the center of the base fabric. Place a second piece of fabric on top of the first piece, right sides together, aligning fabric edges. Sew a straight stitch along the fabric edge [Fig. 1]. Flip the second piece over and press the seam. Select stitch “F” in the “S” range and topstitch along the finished seam [Fig. 2]. Continue to add, sew and topstitch fabric pieces, covering raw edges until the base fabric is covered.
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Crazy quilt
Decorative trim
Decorative topstitch
STITCH
“G” - DECORATIVE TRIM
Stitch up matching trims for clothing or home decorating projects by sewing a decorative stitch on purchased ribbon 1/2” wide or wider.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S G 3-5 3 All-purpose
sition the ribbon under the center of the presser foot and
Po sew [Fig. 3]. You may need to use a tear-away stabilizer under the ribbon for extra stability.
STITCH “H” - DECORATIVE EDGING
Add a touch of color to linens with this enticing decorative stitch. A variegated thread used in the needle will add dimension.
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S H 4-5 1.5 Open toe
Determine the stitching placement line. Place the finished edge under the foot at the placement line and sew [Fig. 4].
STITCH
Stitch rows of cross stitch on a towel for a hand-made look in a fraction of the time.
“I” - CROSS STITCH
Fig. 5
Cross stitch
RANGE STITCH WIDTH LENGTH FOOT
S I 5 3 Open toe
Place the fabric under the foot and sew [Fig. 5]. Use a tear-away stabilizer under the fabric if sewing on light­weight linens.
29
FREE-MOTION SEWING
Free-motion sewing is easily accomplished. Lower the feed teeth, remove the presser foot and presser foot holder, and attach the embroidery foot [Fig. 1]. This allows “free” movement of the fabric in any direction. Use stitch “A” and a stitch width setting from 0-5. There is no need to adjust the stitch length because you will actually be guiding the fabric movement. Use free-motion sewing to monogram, embroider, quilt, or darn.
MONOGRAMMING
STITCH STITCH WIDTH DROP FEED PRESSER FOOT
A 4-5 Lowered Embroidery
Mark the letter or letters to be monogrammed on the fab­ric with a wash-out marker. Place the fabric and stabilizer into a machine embroidery hoop. Raise the needle to its highest position and slide the hoop under the needle. Lower the presser foot lever. To lock the stitching, set the width at 0, hold the needle thread in the left hand and turn the hand wheel toward
ig. 2].
you to draw threads firmly, take three to
up the bobbin thread [F
five stitches in one spot. Set the stitch width to 5. Begin sewing at a medium speed. Mo the hoop left to right, forward and bac marked letter [Fig. 3].
Holding
ve
kward, following the
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 2
Fig. 4
OUTLINE QUILTING
STITCH STITCH WIDTH DROP FEED PRESSER FOOT
A 0 Lowered Embroidery
Baste or pin-baste the fabric, batting, and bac together Select a design alread
. It is not necessary to place this in a hoop.
y in the fabric or transfer your own
king
design using a template. Continue with the directions
following the design line [Fig. 4].
above
DARNING
STITCH
A 0
STITCH WIDTH DROP FEED PRESSER FOOT
Lowered Embroidery
Place a stabilizer under the hole or tear. Place the fabric under the foot. Lower the foot and sew, moving the fabric from left to right and up and down until the hole is completely covered [Fig. 5]. Use a thread to match the fabric color for a nearly invisible mend.
Fig. 5
Note: Relax your shoulders and breathe while you work. Place hands firmly around the hoop, using your index and middle fingers to guide the fabric. Be sure to lower the presser foot lever before sewing!
30
CARE and MAINTENANCE
To ensure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times. Disconnect the machine from the power source before performing any maintenance.
NEEDLES
The Simplicity sewing machine uses standard sewing machine needles (15x1). The size and type of your needle should be compatible with the fabric (see page 15). Change the needle often – after every other project is a good habit. Bent or dull needles will cause skipped stitches and thread breakage. To change the needle, loosen the needle clamp screw
Fig. 1
R ace
Shuttle
keepers
Shuttle
Shuttle area
Fig. 2
Shuttle ra ce cover
Bo bbin case
Fig. 3
[Fig. 1]. Remove the needle by pulling it downward [Fig. 2]. Insert the new needle by pushing it up into the shaft as far as it will go with the flat side toward the back of the machine. Tighten the needle clamp screw.
CLEANING FEED TEETH and SHUTTLE AREA
Raise the needle to its highest position. Remove both the needle plate screws and the needle plate [Fig. 3]. Remove the bobbin case from the shuttle. Push aside the two shuttle keepers and remove the shuttle race cover [Fig. 4] and shuttle [Fig. 5]. Clean the feed teeth and shuttle area with a lint brush [Fig. 6]. Turn the hand wheel until you see the race forming a half moon [Fig. 7]. Holding the shuttle by its center pin, place it on top of the race so that it forms a half moon on the top side [Fig. 8]. Place the shuttle race cover over the shuttle and race [Fig. 9]. Snap the shuttle keepers back into position. Replace bobbin case. Replace the needle plate and screws [Fig. 3].
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 9
CHANGING the LIGHT BULB
Open the left side face cover. Turn the light bulb clockwise to unscrew and remove the bulb. Install a new bulb by turning it counter clockwise to screw it in place [Fig. 10]. Use a 15W (max.) screw-in type bulb.
OILING
Put 2-3 drops of sewing machine oil at each of the points indicated [Fig. 11]. Run the machine unthreaded for 30-60 seconds. Wipe off any excess oil. Oil every 7-10 hours of use. Use sewing machine oil ONLY.
ig. 11
ig. 10
F
F
31
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Problem Possible Cause Solution
TOP THREAD BREAKS Machine is threaded incorrectly . . . . . Rethread machine and needle
Tension is too tight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Reduce tension on top to a smaller number
Thread is too heavy for needle size . . . Use Needle is inserted incorrectly
Needle is damaged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Insert new needle
hread is caught on spool pin . . . . . . . Remove spool, unwind excess thread, clip, turn spool
T
LOWER THREAD BREAKS Bobbin case is not inserted correctly. . Reposition bobbin. If thread pulls smoothly, it is correct
Bobbin case is improperly threaded . . . . Refer to instructions for correct threading
Bobbin tension is too tight. . . . . . . . . . Change bobbin tension according to instructions
SKIPPED STITCHES Needle is not inserted correctly. . . . . . Reinsert needle with flat side toward back
Needle is damaged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Insert new needle
Wrong type of needle is used . . . . . . . Match needle size to fabric and thread weight
Wrong presser foot is used . . . . . . . . . Check the proper presser foot needed for specific task
Foot pressure is wrong. . . . . . . . . . . . . Check foot pressure regulation for proper setting
. . . . . . . Reinsert needle with flat side toward back
a larger needle
over, and use felt disc on spool pin
NEEDLE BREAKS
STITCHING FORMS LOOPS Needle is not threaded correctly . . . . . Thread needle from front to back
SEAMS SHRINK OR PUCKER Presser foot pressure is too heavy . . . . Reduce presser foot pressure to a lower number
THREAD BUNCHING OR Top tension is too loose. . . . . . . . . . . . Increase top tension to a higher number. Normal
“NESTING” ON UNDERSIDE settings are between 3-5.
OF FABRIC Machine is not threaded correctly . . . . Rethread machine making sure presser foot is raised
Needle is damaged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Insert new needle
Needle is not inserted correctly. . . . . . Reinsert needle with flat side toward back
Fabric is too heavy/wrong needle size
abric is being pulled during sewing . . Chec
F
Bobbin is not threaded correctly . . . . . Check instructions for proper bobbin threading
Improper needle and/or thread used . . Match needle size to fabric and thread weight
Bobbin case is improperly threaded. . . . Refer to instructions for correct threading
Thread is of poor quality . . . . . . . . . . . Use quality thread
Needle is too large for fabric . . . . . . . . Use a smaller size needle
Wrong stitch length is used . . . . . . . . . Adjust length for proper stitches
Top and bottom threads are not. . . . . . Draw both threads back under the presser foot and
drawn back under the presser hold until a few stitches have formed foot before sewing
. . Match needle size to fabric and thread weight
k for proper foot pressure; make sure feed teeth are raised and operating correctly; lengthen stitch length. Fabric should feed automatically. Pulling the fabric will thro
and the take-up lever eye is threaded. Raising the presser foot will help seat the thread between the tension discs.
w the machine out of time.
32
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Problem Possible Cause Solution
IRREGULAR STITCHING Thread is of poor quality . . . . . . . . . . . Use quality thread
AND FEEDING Presser foot pressure is too light . . . . . Increase presser foot pressure to a higher number
Bobbin is not threaded correctly . . . . . Thread bobbin again and c
abric is being pulled during sewing . . Check for proper foot pressure; make sure feed teeth
F
are raised and operating correctly; lengthen stitch length. F fabric will throw the machine out of time.
MACHINE IS NOISY AND Machine needs oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to cleaning and maintenance instructions
ROUGH WHEN SEWING Lint and oil residue have collected . . . Clean race and hook according to instructions
in hook or on needle bar
Inferior oil has been used . . . . . . . . . . Clean and oil again. Use only fine sewing machine
oil. Do not use WD40.
Needle is damaged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Insert new needle
Stitch length and/or width dials are set . Refer to instructions for proper machine settings incorrectly for the type of stitch used
abric should feed automatically. Pulling the
heck for proper insertion
For Sewing Machine assistance call:
Simplicity Consumer Helpline
800-822-6691
Monday-Friday 8:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. CT
© 2003
Tacony Corporation
IBSW210
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