SIG T-Clips 70 Assembly Manual

CIFICATIONS

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Length:
Flying Wei
W
Radio Required: 4-Channel with 5 Standard Serv

4-Channel with 4 Standard Servos (electric)

Glow Power:

4-Stroke .53 - .65

Electric Power: 1200-1700 watt Brushless Motor; 300-400 kv

75A Speed Control (ESC)
4S - 6S 4000-5000 mah Lipo Battery Pack

50 in.

ing Loading: 19 - 21 oz./sq.ft. (57-64 g/dm2)

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2-Stroke .53 -

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.61 cu.in.

cu.in.

(5
(1270 mm)

(8.6 - 10.0 cc)
(8.5 - 10.7 cc

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8 lbs. (3175-3538 g)

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os (glow)

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SIG MFG. CO., INC. PO Box 520 Montezuma, IA 50171-0520

www.sigmfg.com

© Copyright 2014, SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations on your purchase of the SIG T-CLIPS 70 EG
ARF. We hope you will enjoy this unique fun scale R/C model.

Assembly of your T-CLIPS 70 is fast and simple when following
the detailed instructions in this manual. We urge you to read this
assembly manual completely before assembly. Familiarize your­self with the parts and the assembly sequences. The successful
assembly and flying of this airplane is your responsibility. If you
deviate from these instructions, you may wind-up with problems
later on.

Good luck with the T-CLIPS. Let’s get started!

ADDITIONAL ITEMS YOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASE

In addition to this kit, you will need the following items to complete
your T-CLIPS and make it flyable.

❑ RADIO SYSTEM

The T-Clips 70 requires a standard 4-channel radio system and
either four or five standard size servos (four servos is using elec­tric power, or 5 servos if using glow engine power). "Standard"
size servos typically have 40-60 oz. of torque. In addition, you'll
need two 6"- 12” long Servo Extension Cords and one Y-Harness
Chord for connection of the two aileron servos to the receiver.
(The length of extension cord you will need depends on how long
the wires are coming off your servos. With Hitec® standard ser­vos we used 6 in. long extension cords. Check your servos and
plan accordingly.)

❑ POWER SYSTEM - GLOW OR ELECTRIC?

The biggest decision you will have to make is whether to power
your T-CLIPS with a glow engine (2-stroke or 4-stroke) or an elec­tric motor. We have flown the T-CLIPS 70 with a variety of both
types of power systems, and we make the following recommen­dations based on our successful on-field experience.

GLOW POWER RECOMMENDATIONS

❑ ENGINE

We recommend the following size engines for the T-CLIPS 70.

2-STROKE - .53 to .61 cu. in.

4-STROKE - .53 to .65 cu. in.

Whatever brand engine you choose, take the time to carefully
break it in according to the manufacturer's instructions. A good
running, reliable engine is a minimum requirement for the enjoy­ment of this or any R/C model aircraft.

❑ PROPELLER FOR GLOW

Refer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for recommenda­tions on proper propeller size for their engine. In our experience,
most .60 size 2-stroke glow engines will fly the T-CLIPS 70 very
nicely with a 12x8 or 13-6 prop.

ELECTRIC POWER RECOMMENDATIONS

❑ 1200 - 1700 watt BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER MOTOR

The T-CLIPS 70 is designed to be powered with a 1200 to 1700
watt electric brushless outrunner motor. This size motor is some­times referred to as a "60" class motor to those who like to make
a comparison to a glow motor. Also, the motor you choose should
be rated at 300-400 kv, in order to turn an appropriate propeller.

Here is are some motor sizes that work well in the T-CLIPS 70:

5030-390
5062-400
5065-400

What do those numbers mean?

NOTE: This numbering system is very common, however there
are exceptions. For instance, some motor manufacturers will
list the actual diameter of the stator (armature) inside the motor
instead of the case diameter. Some may list the length of the
stator inside the motor instead of the case length. Some will
give you both if you dig far enough into their specs. Make sure
you understand the motor manufacturer’s numbering system
when shopping for a motor.

❑ MOTOR MOUNT

A laser-cut plywood adjustable motor mount is included in this kit.
It should work perfectly for any suitable brushless outrunner motor
which has an “X” or “cross” motor mount plate on the back.

❑ 60-75 amp ESC (Electronic Speed Control)

We used the Castle Creations® 75 amp ESC in our T-CLIPS pro­totypes. This is an excellent "switching type" ESC that has a built­in BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit).

Note: BEC allows you to use the same battery pack to power both

2

your motor and your radio system, eliminating the normal radio
battery pack. When the single battery pack runs down in flight to
a prescribed point, the BEC circuit in the ESC will shut down the
motor and leave enough power to operate the radio while you land
the model. Note that the BEC feature in some cheaper ESCs does
not work with 4 cell and larger lipo battery packs - only 3 cell
packs. Check carefully to make sure you know all the specifica­tions of the ESC that you are buying.

❑ 4 cell 5000mah or 6 cell 4000mah LIPO BATTERY PACK

You can fly your T-CLIPS 70 with a 4 cell (4S1P) or 6 cell (6S1P)
Lipo pack. Pack capacity should be 4000-5000 mah for good flight
duration. We find that 6s 4000mAh lipo packs provide between 8
to 10 minutes of flight time, depending on propeller selection and
other factors (quality of pack, throttle management, outside tem­perature, etc.).

CAUTION: You must match your propeller size to the cell count of
your lipo pack, to avoid drawing too many amps and damaging
your ESC or motor.

❑ PROPELLER FOR ELECTRIC

With electric powered models there are many factors that have a
bearing on what propeller to use. The best place to start answer­ing that question is in the instructions that come with your motor.
Another fine source of information is one of the electric flight cal
culators that are available for you to use free online (there is a
good one on Castle Creations web site).

OUR FLIGHT TEST REPORT

One of our favorite setups for the T-CLIPS 70 was a Maxx Prod­ucts® HC5030-390 motor with a 75 amp ESC, a 6-cell (6S1P)

22.2v lipo pack, and an APC® 15x8E propeller. An APC 15x10E
propeller also worked well. Both sizes delivered good perform­ance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .75 glow engine. For a start­ing prop we recommend the APC 15x8E. Other brand propellers
of same size and similar design can also be used.

This combination gave outstanding flight performance. When
using a 6S 4000 mah lipo, we had flight times around 8-10 min­utes, depending of course on throttle management. A 5000 mah
lipo pack provided about 12 minutes of flight time. Your results
may vary. Prop size, size and quality of the battery pack, throttle
management, air temperature, etc., all have a bearing on electric
flight performance and flight time. Experiment to find the best
combination for your setup.

❑ BATTERY CHARGER

FOR SAFETY AS WELL AS PERFORMANCE, CHARGE LIPO
BATTERIES ONLY
In addition to providing the critical charging profile needed to
safely charge lipo batteries, a lipo battery charger also includes
the capability of "balancing" the available voltage in the cells, en­suring that the battery pack is at peak capacity at the end of the
charge cycle. This translates to better flight times and a longer
life from the battery pack.

REQUIRED TOOLS

For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and
materials available:
A selection of glues - SIG Thin, Medium, & Thick CA Glue

CA Accelerator, CA Debonder

SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy
Screwdriver Assortment
Pliers - Needle Nose & Flat Nose
Diagonal Wire Cutters
Small Allen Wrench Assortment
Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits
Hobby Knife with Sharp #11 Blades
Small Power Drill With Selection of Bits

WITH A LIPO BATTERY CHARGER!

Dremel® Tool With Selection of Sanding & Grinding Bits
Scissors
Sandpaper
Covering Iron & Trim Seal Tool
Masking Tape
Paper Towels
Alcohol and/or Acetone For Epoxy Clean-up

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST

The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.
Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to

inventory the parts in your kit. Use the check-off boxes ❑ pro­vided in front of each part description. Please also note that the
bolts and nuts required to mount your engine to the motor mounts
are not included and must be purchased separately.

❑ (1) Fuselage
❑ (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron, hinges not glued
❑ (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron, hinges not glued
❑ (1) Stabilizer & Elevator, hinges not glued
❑ (1) Fin & Rudder, hinges not glued
❑ (1) Fiberglass Cowling
❑ (1) Windshield
❑ (1) Right Side Window
❑ (1) Left Side Window

-

❑ (1) Aluminum Main Landing Gear
❑ (2) 3" dia. Main Wheels
❑ (2) 4mm dia. Steel Axles
❑ (2) Hex Nuts; for axles
❑ (4) 4mm ID Wheels Collars; for axles
❑ (1) Tailwheel Assembly, including Wheel, Formed Wire,

Nylon Bearing, & Wheel Collars(2)
❑ (1) Nylon Rudder Steering Clasp, including M2 x 15mm Bolt

& M2 Hex Nut

❑ (1) Right Fiberglass Wheel Pant
❑ (1) Left Fiberglass Wheel Pant
❑ (1) Aluminum Tube Wing Joiner
❑ (2) Plastic Cinch Straps
❑ (1) Plywood Electric Motor Mount Assembly
❑ (1) Balsa Triangle Stock; for motor mount reinforcement
❑ (2) Velcro® Straps
❑ (7) M4 x 20mm Socket-Head Bolts; for electric motor

mount(4) & main landing gear(3)

❑ (4) M4 Flat Washers; for electric motor mount
❑ (4) M4 x 16mm Socket-Head Bolts; for electric motor
❑ (7) M4 Split-Ring Lock Washers; for electric motor(4)

& main landing gear(3)

❑ (4) M4 Blind Nuts; for mounting electric motor
❑ (2) M6.5 Nylon Wing Bolts
❑ (7) M2.3 x 7mm Screws, for windshield
❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Screws, for cowling
❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Socket-Head Bolts, for wheel pants
❑ (4) Nylon Control Horns; for ail(2); elev(1); rud(1)
❑ (12) M2 x 15mm Screws; for control horns
❑ (4) Nylon Snap Keepers; for ail(2), ele(1), rud(1)
❑ (5) Metal R/C Clevis; for ail(2), ele(1), rud(1), throttle(1)
❑ (5) Small pieces of Fuel Tubing; for R/C clevis keepers
❑ (1) Small Balsa Block; for glow throttle pushrod
❑ (1) Pushrod Connector w/Set Screw, for throttle
❑ (2) Glow Engine Mounts
❑ (4) M4 x 25mm Mounting Bolts, for glow engine mounts
❑ (4) M4 Flat Metal Washers, for glow engine mounts
❑ (1) Fuel Tank
❑ (1) Fuel Tank Rubber Stopper Assembly
❑ (1) Fuel Tank Pick-Up Weight, Metal
❑ (1) Fuel Line Tubing, for inside tank
❑ (2) 7-1/8" long Wire Pushrods, threaded on one end,

with M2 Hex Nuts(2); for ailerons

3

❑ (1) 17-3/4" long Wire Pushrod, threaded on one end,
with M2 Hex Nut; for throttle

❑ (2) 28" long Wire Pushrods, threaded on one end,
with M2 Hex Nuts(2); for elevator & rudder

❑ (1) 11-3/4" long Nylon Pushrod Tube, for throttle
❑ (1) Plywood Throttle Servo Mount
❑ (1) Plywood Fuel Tank Front Mount
❑ (1) Plywood Fuel Tank Rear Mount
❑ (2) Plywood Battery Battery Box Sides
❑ (1) Plywood Battery Battery Box Top
❑ (1) Strip of Red Covering Material

COVERING MATERIAL

Your T-CLIPS ARF is covered with ORACOVER®, a premium
quality covering made in Germany, and sold in the U.S. by
Hanger-9 as Ultracote®.

Colors

Used On Your Airplane

ORACOVER® #23 Ferrari Red (Ultracote® #HANU866)

and

ORACOVER® #71 Black (Ultracote® #HANU874)

measured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.
If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct tem­perature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting.
Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over solid wood,
such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the covering
to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the covering is
getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the iron and repeat
the test.

If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test.
Keep adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Find
the temperature that will get the covering to stick down without
forming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.

Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire
framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is se­curely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes in
contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is
worth the effort.

If sometime in the future you need replacement covering or
matching paint for repairs, they are available from your local hobby
dealer or online from Hanger-9.

How To Tighten Loose Covering

After you open your T-CLIPS and take all the covered parts out of
their plastic bags, the covering may begin to wrinkle. This is not
unusual and is no cause for alarm. Your airplane was built and
covered in a part of the world which has relatively high humidity
and therefore, the wood was likely carrying a fair amount of mois­ture. When exposed to drier air, the wood typically loses this mois­ture, dimensionally "shrinking" in the process. In turn, this may
cause some wrinkles. However, wrinkles are easy to remove by
just using a hobby type heat iron.

Caution: Trying to remove the wrinkles by hastily going over them
with a heat gun can lead to more problems. You should take your
time to carefully go over the entire model with a covering iron, as
we will describe.

After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn

O

the temperature of the iron up to approximately 300

O

C - 160OC). This is the correct temperature for shrinking the

(149

F - 320OF

covering material.

Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of the
model (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the
wrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering
is tight with no wrinkles.

If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need
to “ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is
sealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat
is applied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead of
shrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between each
rib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding air es­cape and the covering to shrink properly.

Caution When Using Heat Guns:

You can also use a hobby-type
heat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful around
seams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams may
cause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be careful
when using a heat gun when working around the windshield and
side windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material.

We suggest using a model airplane covering iron for this process.
Cover the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as an old t­shirt, to prevent scratching the covering as you work.

After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the cor­rect temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result! The

O

iron should be set to about 220

F - 250OF (104OC - 121OC) as

Recommended Temperatures:

O

To adhere the covering - 220

F - 250OF (104OC - 121OC)

To shrink the covering - 300OF - 320OF (149OC - 160OC)

NOTE: In this manual, any references to right or left,
refer to your right or left as if you were seated in the
cockpit of the airplane.

4

WING ASSEMBLY

The wings are designed as a 2-piece system, with separate right
and left wing panels joined by an aluminum tube Wing Joiner and
a hardwood locating Pin at the rear. Due to the high strength of
the wing joiner tube, the wing panels do not need to be perma­nently glued together. Gluing them permanently together is op­tional - your call. The obvious benefit to leaving the wing panels
separate is the fact that they can be easily transported or stored,
requiring a minimum of space.

To help protect your wings during the following steps we recom­mend that you cover your work surface with a soft cloth or piece
of foam.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

For the following steps you will need:

(1) Right Wing Panel
(1) Left Wing Panel
(1) Aluminum Tube Wing Joiner
(2) Servos with Mounting Screws (not furnished)
(2) 6” Servo Extension Cords (not furnished)
(1) Servo Y- Harness (not furnished)

❑ 1) Mount the aileron servos in the bottom of each wing panel.

a) The servo bays are precut for you but you’ll want to double
check the covering around the cutout to make sure it is sealed
down tight.

b) Install the rubber grommets and brass eyelets (supplied with
your radio system) into each aileron servo.

c) Install the control arms on the two aileron servos. The arms
should be at 90 degrees to the servo when the aileron control stick
on the transmitter is in neutral and the transmitter trims are in neu­tral as well.

d) Before installing the aileron servos in the wing panels you
must attach a servo extension cord to the aileron servo wire. The
typical combined length required is approximately18”. A 6” exten­sion chord will usually provide sufficient length. Plug the servo
plug into the extension cord and tape the plugs together for added
security.

servo mounting screws. Use the screws supplied with your radio
system to mount the servo in place on the servo mount. Repeat
this procedure to mount the servo in the opposite wing panel.

HINGING THE AILERONS

❑ 2) Note that the CA Hinges are installed, but not yet glued, in
the ailerons and wing panels. The installation process for the
hinges is the same for all of the control surfaces on this model.

a) If you removed the ailerons and hinges from the wing panels
when you tightened the covering material, reinstall them now.
First insert the five CA Hinges into the slots in the aileron. Put
two pins in the center of each hinge, up against the leading edge
of the aileron, to keep the hinges centered during the next step.

e) Holding the wing panel with the wingtip UP, drop the end of
the extension chord into the servo mount cutout and then thru the
openings in the wing ribs, working it towards to the center end of
the wing panel. The plug on the end of the extension chord will
occasionally get hung up on the ribs, however by turning or gently
shaking the wing panel you can get it to fall through the openings
in the ribs, until it emerges at the end rib. Once you’ve got the
plug to the end rib, direct it through the round hole in the bottom
surface of the wing panel. By that time, the servo itself should be
next to the servo mount cutout and ready for mounting.
f) Fit the servo into the servo mount in the wing panel, (note
that the servo is positioned so that the servo arm is at the forward
end toward the wing leading edge). Take up any slack in the servo
chord as you insert the servo in the mount. Use a pin vise and a
small drill bit to drill small pilot holes in the servo mount for the

b) Now carefully insert the exposed portion of the five hinges
into the trailing edge of the wing. You will find it easiest to slide
the hinges into the slots at angle, one hinge at a time, instead of
trying to push it straight onto all the hinges at once.

c) Adjust the aileron so that the tip of the aileron is flush with
the wing tip. The ailerons should be tight against the pins in the
hinges to minimize the gap between the wing and the aileron. The
aileron is now in the proper position for permanently gluing them
in place with thin CA glue.

d) Flex the aileron down and hold it in this position. Remove
the pins from one hinge and then carefully apply 3-4 drops of Thin
CA glue directly onto the hinge in the gap. You will notice that the
glue is quickly wicked into the slot as it penetrates both the wood
and the hinge. We suggest using a fine tipped applicator on the
glue bottle to better control the flow of glue.

5

e) Turn the part over and glue the other side of the hinge. Con­tinue this process until you have glued both sides of all the hinges!
Keep a rag handy to wipe off any excess Thin CA glue. (If you
get some glue smears on the plastic covering, don't worry about
them right now. Once all the hinging is done, you can clean the
smears off the covering with CA Debonder).

f) Let the glue dry 10-15 minutes before flexing the hinges. At
first you might notice a little stiffness in the joint. This will go away
after the hinges have been flexed back and forth a couple dozen
times.

INSTALL AILERON CONTROL HORNS & PUSHRODS

From the kit contents locate:

(2) Nylon Control Horns

(6) M2 x 15 mm Screws

(2) Short Pushrod Wires with M2 Hex Nut

(2) Metal R/C Clevis

(2) Nylon Snap Keepers

(2) small pieces of Fuel Tubing

horn. Lay the other end of the pushrod wire over the outer hole
in the servo arm. Use a felt tip pen to mark the wire where it
crosses the hole. Use a pair of pliers to put a sharp 90-degree
bend in the wire at the mark.

❑ 3) Look closely and you will see three holes pre-drilled in the
bottom of the ailerons for mounting the nylon control horns. Screw
the control horn in position on the bottom of the aileron using three
M2 x 15mm screws.

When the tips of the screws begin to emerge at the top surface of
the aileron, add the control horn's nylon retaining plate. The
aileron will be sandwiched between the control horn on the bottom
and the retaining plate on the top. Continue turning in the screws
until the horn and retaining plate are snug against both surfaces
of the aileron. Do not over tighten the screws and crush the wood.

The excess length of the screws that is extending past the retain­ing plate can be cut off with a pair of side cutting pliers or ground
down with a rotary tool with a cutoff disc.

❑ 4) Next assemble and install the aileron pushrods.

a) Slide a short piece of Fuel Tubing onto the small end of the
Metal R/C Clevis. Screw the Hex Nut on the Aileron Pushrod Wire
all the way up to the end of the threads. Then screw the metal
clevis halfway onto the threaded end of the Aileron Pushrod Wire.

c) Insert the bent end of the pushrod into the servo arm, from
the top. Note: You will most likely need to use a 1/16” dia. drill to
open the hole in the servo arm to accept the pushrod wire.

d) Mark and cut off the excess end of the pushrod wire, leaving
1/8” of wire protruding below the bottom of the servo arm.

e) Clip a Nylon Snap Keeper in place on the servo end of the
pushrod wire. Snap the free end of the keeper up and over the
protruding end of the pushrod wire, underneath the servo arm.

f) Check that the aileron servo is in neutral position and adjust
the metal clevis as needed to get the aileron in neutral position.

VERY IMPORTANT

CORRECT NEUTRAL POSITION FOR T-CLIPS AILERONS

Adjusting the neutral position of the ailerons of the T-CLIPS is a
bit different than most models, due to the T-CLIPS unique airfoil
shape. The T-CLIPS airfoil is flat on the bottom from the main spar
back to the trailing edge of the wing panel. DO NOT line the
aileron up with this flat bottom portion of the airfoil. That would
set the both ailerons too high and be detrimental to the flight char­acteristics of the airplane.

b) Clip the metal clevis into the last hole in the nylon control

The center line of the ailerons
line of the airfoil, as shown in this drawing.

g) Once the ailerons are properly adjusted, insure that the
metal clevis can’t open up and come loose from the control horn

6

must be lined up with the center

by sliding the piece of Fuel Tubing over the arms of the clevis.
Also tighten the M2 Hex Nut up against the back of the clevis.

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

INSTALL THE MAIN LANDING GEAR

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

(1) Fuselage
(2) Aluminum Main Landing Gear
(3) M4 x 20mm Socket-Head Bolts
(3) M4 Split-Ring Lock Washers
(2) 3" dia. Main Wheels
(2) 4mm dia. Steel Axles
(2) Hex Nuts; for axles
(4) 4mm ID Wheels Collars; for axles
(1) Right Fiberglass Wheel Pant
(1) Left Fiberglass Wheel Pant

(4) M3 x 10mm Socket-Head Bolts

NOTE: We suggest you use a thread locking liquid (like Locktite®)
on all bolts and nuts used in the assembly of the landing gear.

❑ 5) Install a Threaded Axle into the large hole of the landing gear
leg, with the plain end of the axle shaft pointing to the outside.
Secure the axle with one of the large Hex Nuts. When tightening
the hex nut, keep the flats of the nut on the axle side of the gear
leg parallel to the front edge of the leg - see photo. This allows
the hex nut to fit inside the narrow notch in the wheel pants when
they are added later.

❑ 9) Check the orientation of the landing gear to make sure you
know which way is forward. The two outer holes for mounting the
gear to the fuselage go to the front. Test fit the wheel pants over
the wheels and line up the predrilled mounting holes. Secure the
wheel pants in place with two M3 x 10mm socket head bolts on
each pant.

❑ 10) Using three M4 x 20mm Socket-Head Bolts and three M4
Split-Ring Lock Washers attach the landing gear to the fuselage.

❑ 6) Slide a 4mm Wheel Collar onto the axle shaft, but leave ap­proximately 1/8” of space between it and the nut, to provide proper
spacing of the wheel in the wheel pant. Tighten the wheel collar
set screw securely.

❑ 7) Next slide one of the Main Wheels onto the axle and test to
make sure it spins freely. If it does not turn freely, drill out the plas­tic hub of the wheel with an 11/64" or #17 drill bit.

❑ 8) Slide a second Wheel Collar onto the axle and up to the
wheel. Leave a small gap between it and the wheel, so the wheel
will turn freely, and then tighten the wheel collar set screw.

TAIL SURFACE INSTALLATION

For the following steps you will need:

(1) Fuselage
(1) Wing
(1) Stabilizer & Elevator set.
(1) Vertical Fin & Rudder Set
(2) M6.5 Nylon Wing Bolts
(1) Tailwheel assembly, including Wheel and Wheel Collars
(2) M3 x 12mm Screws
(1) Nylon Rudder Steering Clasp with Bolt and Hex Nut
(2) Nylon Control Horns
(6) M2 x 15mm Screws

❑ 11) Just like the aileron hinges, the elevator hinges are factory
installed, but not yet glued. Hinge the elevator assembly to the
stabilizer, using the same techniques you did for the ailerons ­refer to page 5 of this manual. Let the hinges dry adequately be­fore proceeding.

❑ 12) Look closely and you will see three holes pre-drilled in one
of the elevators for mounting a nylon control horn. Screw the con­trol horn in position on the bottom of the right
M2 x 15mm screws. When the tips of the screws begin to emerge
at the top surface of the elevator, add the control horn's nylon re-

7

elevator, using three

taining plate. Continue turning in the screws until the horn and
retaining plate are snug against both surfaces of the elevator. Do
not over tighten the screws and crush the wood.

❑ 13) Bolt the wing in place on the fuselage with the Nylon Wing
Bolts provided. Then pin the stabilizer and elevator assembly in
place on the fuselage. It's time to check the alignment of the sta­bilizer to the wing.

a) First view the model from directly in front. Check to see if
the stabilizer is level with the wing. You should find it to be very
close. If necessary use a sanding block to fine tune the stabilizer
platform to level the stabilizer to the wing.

b) Next use a tape measure to measure the distance from each
stab tip to the back edge of the wing - the distance should be
equal on both sides. Adjust if necessary. When you are satisfied
with the alignment, proceed to the next step

❑ 16) Glue the fin in place using slow drying epoxy glue. Apply a
thin coat of glue to the bottom of the fin and to the exposed wood
on the stab. With the fin in place, sight the model from the front
to make sure the fin is absolutely 90 degrees upright to the stab.
If needed, use a little masking tape to hold it in alignment. Wipe
off any excess glue rubbing alcohol and a soft paper towel.

❑ 17) Hinge the rudder to the fin and the rear of the fuselage using
the same techniques you did for the other hinges - refer to page
5 of this manual. Make sure to line up the top of the rudder flush
with the top of the fin. This will ensure the tail wheel bracket lines
up correctly. Let the hinges dry adequately before proceeding.

❑ 18) Look closely and you will find three holes pre-drilled near
the bottom of the rudder for mounting a nylon control horn. Install
the control horn on the left
plate on the right, using three M2 x 15mm screws.

side of the rudder, with the retaining

❑ 14) The horizontal stabilizer is now glued in place into the rear
of the fuselage. We suggest using slow drying epoxy glue for this
job to allow time to position the stab accurately and make any final
adjustments that might be needed. Apply the glue to both sides
and reset the stab in place. Use pins to hold it in place. Recheck
the alignment. Wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol
and a soft paper towel. Allow the glue to set completely.

❑ 15) Pull the Fin and Rudder off their hinges and set the rudder
aside for now. Test fit the fin in place on top fo the fuselage and
stabilizer. Check to see that the fin sits flush and perpendicular
to the stabilizer.

TAILWHEEL INSTALLATION

❑ 19) Mount the Tailwheel assembly in place on the lower rear
end of the fuselage, using two M3 x 12mm screws. Note that
there are two pilot holes already in the fuselage for the screws.

❑ 20) Adjust the wheel collar shown to set the height of the tail­wheel wire. Then check to see if the long steering leg of the tail­wheel wire is parallel to the bottom of the rudder. The wire may
need to be tweaked slightly to make it parallel.

❑ 21) Slide the Nylon Rudder Steering Clasp onto the bottom of
the rudder and onto the tailwheel wire at the same time. Locate

8

the clasp at the halfway point on the wire, and then drill a hole for
the M2 x 15mm Bolt. Insert the bolt through the hole and tighten
down the M2 Hex Nut to clamp the bracket in place.

RADIO INSTALLATION

For this section you will need:

(1) Radio Receiver (not furnished)

(2) Servos with Mounting Screws (not furnished)

❑ 22) Install the rudder and elevator servos inside the fuselage in
the built-in plywood radio mounting tray. Note that the rudder
servo goes on the right side of the airplane, and the elevator servo
goes on the left side. Be sure to drill pilot holes through the ply­wood tray for the mounting servo mounting screws.

tape, or with two small balsa wood sticks held together with small
rubber bands.

❑ 23) Figure out where and how to mount your receiver. This can
depend on several factors, starting with whether you are using a
glow engine or an electric motor for power. We decided to mount
the receiver of our photo model, which will be electric powered,
on the left side of the fuselage, using a short piece of common
Velcro® tape (not furnished).

ELEVATOR & RUDDER PUSHROD INSTALLATION

For this section you will need:

(1) Fuselage

(2) 28” Long Pushrod Wires with M2 Hex Nut

(2) Metal R/C Clevis

(2) Nylon Snap Keepers

(2) small pieces of Fuel Tubing

❑ 24) Assemble and install the elevator pushrod.

a) First slide a small piece of Fuel Tubing onto the small end of
the Metal R/C Clevis. Next screw the Hex Nut that is on the
Pushrod Wire all the way up to the end of the threads. Then screw
the metal clevis halfway onto the threads.

c) Inside the fuselage, hold the pushrod wire over the elevator
servo output arm and mark the wire where it crosses over the
outer hole in the servo arm.

d) At the tail end, unlock the elevator from neutral position, and
then unclip the clevis from the control horn. Remove the clevis
and the hex nut completely off of the pushrod and set them aside.
Now pull the pushrod out of the fuselage from the servo end. It
will be easier to complete the next three steps with the pushrod
out of the airplane.

e) Cut off the pushrod wire 1/4” past the mark made at the
servo end in step c). Then put a sharp 90-degree bend in the wire
at the mark.

f) Remove the servo arm from the elevator servo. Drill out the
last hole in the servo arm with a 1/16" dia. drill so it will accept the
pushrod wire. Then insert the bent end of the pushrod wire into
the servo arm, from the top.

g) Clip a Nylon Snap Keeper in place to hold the pushrod wire
in the servo arm. Snap the free end of the keeper up and over
the protruding end of the pushrod wire, underneath the servo arm.

b) Locate the pre-cut pushrod exit hole for the elevator on the
right side of the fuselage at the back of the plane. Slide the
pushrod into the exit hole and inside the pushrod sleeve built into
the fuselage. Slide it in until you can clip the clevis into the middle
hole of the control horn. Lock the elevator in neutral position with

h) Now slide the pushrod back inside the pushrod sleeve in the
fuselage, from the front. When it is in far enough, put the servo
arm back in place on the servo.

i) Make sure that the elevator servo is in neutral position and
then adjust the metal clevis at the tail end as needed to get the
elevator in perfect neutral position.

j) After the elevator is properly adjusted, insure that the metal

clevis can’t open up and come loose from the control horn by slid-

9

ing the small piece of fuel tubing over the arms of the clevis. Also
tighten the M2 Hex Nut up against the back of the clevis.

❑ 25) Locate the pre-cut pushrod exit hole for the rudder on the
left side of the fuselage at the back of the plane and repeat step

24) in its entirety to install the rudder pushrod.

exactly 5-1/4”, in order for the cowling will fit properly.

a) So what you need to do is to subtract the measurement
taken in the previous step (26) from 5.25”. The result is the dis­tance you need to set the front of the firewall from the back edge
of the plywood motor mount box. (With the motor we are using in

these photos, the motor measurement is 3.21”. So 5.25” minus

3.21” = 2.04”. Your result may be different depending on your
motor.)

ELECTRIC POWER SYSTEM

Skip this section if your using a glow engine power setup

ELECTRIC MOTOR & ESC INSTALLATION

For this section you will need:

(1) Fuselage
(1) Plywood Electric Motor Mount
(1) Balsa Triangle Stock
(4) M4 x 20mm Socket-Head Bolts
(4) M4 Split-Ring Lock Washers
(4) M4 Flat Metal Washers
(4) M4 x 16mm Socket-Head Bolts
(4) M4 Split-Ring Lock Washers
(4) M4 Blind Nuts
(2) Plywood Battery Box Sides
(1) Plywood Battery Box Top
(1) Velcro® Strap
(1) set Electric Motor, ESC, Prop, Lipo Battery (not furnished)

NOTE: The mounting of the electric motor in the T-CLIPS 70 as­sumes that your motor has a typical "X" or "cross" mounting plate
on the back of the motor. Also note that the firewall portion of the
laser-cut plywood motor mount is adjustable fore and aft to ac­commodate different length motors. Next we will determine where
you should set the firewall for your particular motor.

❑ 26) Assemble your motor according to the manufacturer's in­structions. Then carefully measure the distance from the back of
the mounting plate to the front of the thrust washer*.
* The “thrust washer” is the part of the prop adaptor where the

back of the propeller will be located.

b) Carefully measure and mark the distance determined in the
previous step from the back edge of the motor mount box towards
the front. Do this along side each of the adjustment slots on both
sides of the box (four marks total).

c) After you have all four slots marked, carefully align the front
face of the firewall to line up with the marks. Make sure you end
up with the firewall straight and square in the box. If it is not,
recheck your marks and adjust as necessary.

d) Tack glue the firewall in place. Recheck once more to make
sure that the front of the firewall is at the correct distance from the
back of the motor mount box. That distance plus the length of
your motor must equal 5-1/4”. When satisfied it is correct, glue
the firewall securely to the rest of the motor mount box.

❑ 28) Remove the X mount plate from the back of your motor and
center it on the firewall. Once you are sure it is properly located,
mark the mounting holes with a pencil. Remove the X mount and
drill out the mounting holes with a 7/32" dia. drill. Install four M4
Blind Nuts in the holes, on the back side of the firewall. Put a cou­ple drops of glue on the flanges of the blind nuts to secure them
to the plywood. Be careful not to get any of the glue in the
threads.

❑ 29) Locate the piece of balsa triangle stock provided. Measure,
cut and install pieces of triangle stock to reinforce all the corner
joints inside the motor mount box.

❑ 27) For the T-CLIPS 70, you need a distance from the back
edge of the motor mount to the motor’s thrust washer to end up

❑ 30) If you have not already re-attached the X mount plate to the
back of your motor, do so now. Then use (4) M4 x 16mm Socket­Head Mounting Bolts and Lock Washers to bolt your motor in
place on the plywood motor mount box.

❑ 31) Install your ESC

a) Solder appropriate battery connectors (not supplied) to the

10

battery leads of your ESC.

b) Decide where you want to install your ESC. We fastened
ours to the inside of the fuselage with common Velcro® tape (not
furnished).

c) Now route the ESC’s servo wire back to the receiver and
plug it in.

d) Connect the ESC's motor wires to the motor. Operate the
motor and check the direction of rotation. Always do this without
a propeller attached! If you need to reverse the rotation, refer to
the instructions that came with the motor and ESC. Changing the
direction of rotation is normally a simple matter of swapping two
of the motor wires.

wood top piece. Glue the top and sides together securely.

b) Take one of the supplied Velcro® straps and pull the short
"fuzzy" portion loose from the longer "hook" strap. Glue one end
of the short fuzzy strap on to one of the box sides, as shown in
the following photo. Glue the plain side to the wood, not the fuzzy
side. Epoxy glue works best for this step.

c) Cut the hook strap in half, and then glue one end of it to the
other box side. The hook side should be glued against the wood.
Epoxy glue works best for this step.

d) Trial fit the assembled battery box inside the fuselage. Note
that there are slots in the plywood fuselage floor to accept the
tabs on the bottom of the battery box. After you are familiar with
the fit of the battery box, glue it permenently to the to the plywood
floor and to the front of the servo mount.

SAFETY ISSUE: We strongly recommend the use of an “arming
switch” for your motor installation. With an arming switch you can
install your battery pack in the airplane and hook up the wires
without danger of the motor starting. The arming switch keeps
the electricity away from the motor until you “arm” it when you are
ready to takeoff. The most common arming switches are a simple
external plug that puts a break in the positive battery lead to the
motor, such as the Maxx Products Arming Switch shown below.
There are also arming switches built into some of the advanced
ESCs now on the market.

In addition to the Velcro® strap at the front holding your lipo bat­tery pack inside the box, it is also a good idea to use additional
Velcro® tape (not furnished) on both the bottom of your battery
pack and on the top surface of the plywood floor, to make sure
the battery pack will not move around during aerobatics.

❑ 32) The lipo battery pack will ride in a plywood battery box on
the floor of the fuselage, just in front of the servo mount. In this
step we will assemble and then install the battery box.

a) The battery box consists of (2) plywood sides and (1) ply-

❑ 33) For electric power we must let more air flow through the
firewall into the fuselage to cool the ESC and lipo battery pack.
Look closely at the bottom of the firewall, below the motor mount,
and you will see a rectangular shape that is partially cut through
the firewall. There are 4 tiny connecting tabs - one on top, bottom,
and each side - that hold it in place. With your thumb, push hard
on one side of the cutout and it should pop loose as shown in the
next photo. Use a knife if necessary. Discard the piece.

11

❑ 34) If after test flying you find that the ESC or battery are getting
warmer than you would like, make an air exit hole in the bottom
of the fuselage, as shown here. This will improve the air flow
through the fuselage.

COWLING INSTALLATION

For this section you will need the fuselage and:

(1) Fiberglass Cowling
(4) M3 x 10mm Screws

❑ 35) Mount the cowling on the fuselage with the four M3 x 10mm
Screws provided. Notice that the holes for the four cowl mounting
screws are already pre-drilled in the cowling - two on each side.

a) First test fit the cowling on the fuselage. As you pass it over
the motor, make sure all the wires are out of the way. Carefully
adjust the exact position of the cowling. Make sure you have ad­equate clearance between the front of the cowl and the back of
the propeller, and that the prop shaft is centered in the hole. Use
low tack tape to hold the cowling in place for the next step.

b) Use a 5/64" or #45 bit to drill a pilot hole for the top left cowl
mounting screw. Center the drill in the hole in the cowling and
drill into the fuselage side. Install an M3 x 10mm screw in the pilot
hole - do not over-tighten the screw.

c) Recheck the position of the cowling and make any adjust­ments needed to get it back in position.

d) Now drill another pilot hole for the upper screw on the other
side of the cowling. Install the screw.

e) Repeat this process to install the two bottom cowl mounting
screws. Remove all the tape.

❑ 36) With a fully cowled motor, it is very important to make sure
your power system is getting proper cooling. Air flowing into the
front of the cowling must have a place to exit the cowl. In fact it’s
best to have more air exit area
air flow through the cowling - an actual suction effect - drawing
the heated air out of the cowling so that more cool air can come
in. This positive air flow keeps your motor running cool. We rec­ommend that you make a simple opening at the bottom rear edge
of the cowling as shown in the next photo, to provide additional
air exit area. The exact dimensions are not critical.

Note: A Dremel® Tool, or similar rotary hand-tool, with an assort­ment of bits is without a doubt the best tool to use for making
cutout in the fiberglass cowling. However, if you do not have ac­cess to such a tool, you can cut the opening with a drill, a hobby
knife, and a sanding block. First first drill a series of almost touch­ing 1/8” holes inside the pattern lines; then use the knife to cut
through the connecting material between each hole; and finally
finish the edges of the opening with the file or a sanding block.

❑ 37) Mount a suitable propeller on your motor.

than inlet area to create a positive

GLOW POWER SYSTEM

Skip this section if your using an electric power setup

For this section you will need the Fuselage and:

(2) Nylon Engine Mounts
(4) M4 x 25mm Mounting Bolts
(4) M4 Flat Metal Washers
(1) Fuel Tank
(1) Rubber Stopper Assembly
(1) Fuel Pick-Up Weight (clunk)
(1) Fuel Line Tubing for inside tank
(1) Plywood Fuel Tank Front Mount
(1) Plywood Fuel Tank Rear Mount
(1) Nylon Throttle Pushrod Tube
(1) 17-3/4" long Wire Pushrod with M2 Hex Nut
(1) Metal RC Clevis
(1) small piece of Fuel Tubing
(1) Metal Pushrod Connector with Set Screw and Hex Nuts
(1) Plywood Throttle Servo Mount
(1) Balsa Block

The T-CLIPS is designed for INVERTED glow engine mounting.
We found that to be the most trouble free installation in most
cases. However with some glow engines you may want to explore
the option of side mounting. Note that the pre-mounted blind nuts
for the engine mounts are symmetrically spaced - i.e. the same
spacing left-to-right as up-to-down.

The following instructions show a typical 2-stroke glow engine
being mounted inverted.

❑ 38) Bolt the two Nylon Engine Mounts on the front of the fire­wall, using M4 x 25mm Bolts and M4 Flat Washers provided.

12

❑ 39) Set your engine in place on the beams of the engine
mounts. Slide the engine forward or aft on the engine mounts until
the front of the engine's thrust washer is 5-1/4" from the front of
the firewall. Double check to make sure that the engine is pointing
exactly straight forward, and then mark the locations of the engine
mounting holes onto the beams of the engine mounts, using a
center punch or sharpened nail.

❑ 40) Now set your engine aside and unbolt the engine mounts
from the firewall. Drill clearance holes for your engine mounting
bolts all the way thru the engine mount beams at the four locations
you marked in the previous step. TIP: Secure the engine mounts
in a vise while you drill the holes. If at all possible use a drill press
instead of a hand drill - the job will be much easier and the holes
will be straighter.

Flat Metal Washers)4), and Lock Nuts(4) to fit your engine. For
6-32 mounting bolts the correct clearance hole would be a 5/32"
dia. drill bit.

❑ 41) Next assemble the Fuel Tank.

a) Locate the Rubber Stopper Assembly. There are three nylon
tubes going through the rubber stopper. Orient the stopper so
that one of the tubes is towards the top and then bend that tube
up at a 45-degree angle. Do not apply heat to the tube - it will
bend without heat. Just overbend it to nearly 90-degrees and then
let it relax, to see where it will end up. Repeat if necessary until
the tube will stay at 45-degrees.

b) Attach the metal Fuel Pick-Up Weight on one end of the sil­icone Fuel Line Tubing that goes inside the tank. Cut the other
end of the fuel line tubing to a length that will allow the clunk to
reach the back of the tank, without getting stuck on the walls of
the tank. Test fit in the tank and adjust as necessary. With the
stopper assembly in place, the fuel clunk should sit just in front of
the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank. If not pull the
assembly back out and trim the tubing back until the stopper
moves freely. The top of the vent tube should rest just below the
top of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SCREW TO MOUNT
YOUR ENGINE TO THESE MOUNTS. ALSO, DO NOT DRILL
AND TAP THESE ENGINE MOUNTS FOR BOLTS! Doing so

may weaken them and cause failure. Mount your engine to these
mounts with steel bolts with flat metal washers and nylon insert
lock nuts. Drill clearance size holes for the bolts completely
through the mount beams. The mounting bolts should go through
the holes without binding.

c) Once you are satisfied with the fit of both the fuel clunk line
and the vent line you can tighten the machine screw to expand
the rubber stopper and seal the stopper in the tank. Do not over
tighten the screw as it can cause the tank to split. Attach three 6­inch lengths of silicone fuel tubing (not furnished) to the tank and
label them appropriately as FILL, CARB, and VENT so you can
identify them after the tank is installed in the airplane.

❑ 42) Install the fuel tank in the fuselage.

a) First glue the plywood fuel tank front mount in the notches
in the fuselage floor.

NOTE: Bolts are not provided for mounting your engine because
not all engines suitable for the T-CLIPS use the same diameter
bolts. Many will use 6-32 size bolts, while some may use a larger
diameter bolt. It is up to you to acquire the correct size Bolts(4),

b) Slip the fuel tank in place, poking the neck of the tank into
the plywood front support.

13

c) Now install the plywood fuel tank rear mount at the back of
the tank, right up against the back side of the front fuselage for­mer. Glue the plywood rear mount permanently to the back of the
fuselage former.

d) Use common silicone bathtub sealer (not furnished) to glue
the fuel tank to the front and rear plywood tank mounts.

THROTTLE PUSHROD FOR 2-STROKE ENGINES

The supplied throttle pushrod assembly consists of a wire pushrod
running inside a nylon pushrod tube. On the threaded end of the
pushrod you will have an Metal RC Clevis. For a typical 2-stroke
installation we prefer to connect this end of the pushrod to the car­buretor arm. The plain end of the pushrod wire will connect to the
throttle servo using a Metal Pushrod Connector.

sliding the plain end of the wire in from the front. Steer the
pushrod through the hole you drilled in the firewall; then through
the hole in the rear tank mount; and then back to the pushrod con­nector on the servo. Slide the end of the wire into the pushrod
connector, but don’t tighten the set screw at this time.

b) Now try to connect the metal clevis at the front of the
pushrod to the carburetor arm. With a typical 2-stroke engine you
will most likely find that the clevis does not line up with the carbu­retor arm. If that is the case simply take the pushrod back out of
the airplane and use a pliers to bend the end of the pushrod in an
offset pattern, as shown below, using two 45o bends. In our in­stallation we needed to offset the end of the pushrod about 3/8"
in order to line up directly with the carburetor arm (see photo
below).

c) When you are ready to put the pushrod wire back in the air­plane for the final time, first slip the nylon throttle pushrod tube
over the pushrod wire. After you get the pushrod assembly in the
airplane, adjust the location of the nylon tube so approximately 1"
of the nylon tube is sticking out in front of the firewall. Then glue
the tube to the plywood rear tank support, to keep it from moving.
Cut the rear of the plastic tube off a couple inches from the servo
arm.

d) Turn on your radio and adjust the length and travel of the
throttle pushrod. When done make sure the pushrod fittings are
secure at both ends.

Determine which side of the airplane your throttle pushrod will be
on. Then determine the exact route your pushrod will take to con­nect to the throttle servo and the engine’s throttle arm. In most
cases you will want the pushrod to run right alongside the engine
mount and fuel tank, and then angle over to the throttle servo arm.

❑ 43) The first step is to drill a 3/16" diameter hole through the
firewall for the throttle pushrod to pass through. Be careful not to
drill a hole in your fuel tank!

❑ 44) Install your throttle servo in the fuselage.

a) Locate the laser-cut plywood throttle servo mount (this servo
mount is not
slot in each side of the fuselage to accept the tab on the plywood
throttle servo mount. Glue the plywood mount securely into the
fuselage, on the side that suits your particular engine.

b) Mount your throttle servo in the plywood mount using the
rubber grommets, eyelets, and screws that came with the servo.

c) Install the metal pushrod connector in the throttle servo arm,
with one hex nut above the arm, and one below. You will need to
drill out the hole in the servo arm with a 5/64" dia. (or #47) drill bit
to accept the threaded portion of the pushrod connector. Tighten
the two hex nuts of the pushrod connector securely against the
top and bottom of the servo arm. If you take the set screw tem­porarily out of the pushrod connector, you can use a small screw­driver to go down through the connector body to hold the bolt,
which makes it much easier to tighten the hex nuts. When fin­ished, install the throttle servo arm back onto the servo.

pre-installed in the fuselage). Notice that there is a

THROTTLE PUSHROD FOR 4-STROKE ENGINES

4-stroke glow engines typically have their carburetor on the back
of the engine. This puts the throttle arm very close to the firewall
of the airplane, makikng the hookup of this end of the throttle
pushrod more difficult. If you are using a 4-stroke engine you
should take a look at some of the special after-market fittings that
are available for this type of installation. For instance Du-Bro®
makes a 4-stroke throttle linkage for the carb end of the pushrod,
that will work well in conjunction with the wire pushrod parts in­cluded in this kit.

❑ 45) Install the throttle pushrod.

a) Start by test fitting the throttle pushrod wire in the airplane,

COWLING

❑ 46) Openings will need to be made in the cowling to clear the
engine cylinder head and muffler, and to allow access to the nee­dle valve, etc. Don't be tempted to quickly dive in with a knife and

14

start removing large chunks of material. You will achieve a lot bet­ter result if you take the time to develope a pattern and mark it on
the cowling for guidance when you are cutting.

There are no hard and fast "rules" for the exact perfect shape for
openings in a cowling. The best method is to "sneak up" on these
openings, continually trial fitting the cowling over the engine until
it finally fits properly. Once the opening is big enough for you to
slip it over the engine and place it in correct location on the model,
then continue modifying as needed.

A Dremel® Tool, or similar powered hand-tool, with a 5/8" dia.
coarse grit sanding drum is without a doubt the best tool to use
for removing the material quickly, easily and accurately. However,
if you do not have access to such a power tool, you can cut the
opening with a drill, a hobby knife, and a file - by first drilling a se­ries of almost touching holes inside your pattern lines (1/8” dia.
works well); then using the knife to cut through the connecting ma­terial between each hole; and finally finishing the edges of the
opening with the file or a sanding block.

CONGRATULATIONS!

Your T-CLIPS 70 is completely assembled. However, it is NOT
ready for flight! There are a few very critical pre-flight tasks we
must perform before flying. These are extremely important and
should be approached with patience and care.

PRE-FLIGHT

BALANCE

Balancing your airplane may be the single most important step in
preparing it for flight. All airplanes, model or full-size, must be ac­curately balanced in order to fly successfully. An airplane that is
not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likely crash.

NOT ALL T-CLIPS WILL BALANCE THE SAME

It is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will automat­ically have the correct balance point. Not everyone uses the same
motor or radio gear - and all those items can vary in weight! Even
propellers of the same size can vary as much as a 3/4 oz. be­tween different brands. That’s why every model must be balanced
before flying. Don’t feel that whatever the balance point your
model came out at is “good enough”. Check carefully and make
whatever adjustments are required. Trying to fly an out of balance
model is dangerous!

Preliminary: All the parts and components that will be in the air­plane in flight must be installed in their correct positions. This in­cludes all the radio gear, the propeller, battery pack, etc. Every
piece of essential equipment must be installed, ready for flight.

❑ 47) Mount the cowl to the fuselage with the four M3 x 10mm
Screws provided. Steps 35 and 36 on page 12 of this manual de­scribes mounting the cowling.

LATER ... BEFORE FLYING ... SEAL THE HATCH

When using a glow engine we recommend that you seal the
Hatch/Windshield onto the fuselage to prevent fuel and exhaust
residue from getting inside the fuselage. The reason we built a
removable hatch into this airplane was to provide easy access to
the battery compartment when using an electric motor for flight.
Obviously, with a glow engine you do not need regular access to
this area of the airplane. We recommend tack gluing the hatch in
place with several small spots of glue along its edges. Then seal
over the seams with either clear tape or white covering material
(not supplied). This is reversible if you ever need access to the
fuel tank in the future.

INSTALL SIDE WINDOWS

Both glow engine and electric motor users resume assembly here.

❑ 48) The clear plastic side windows are molded to fit into the
fuselage window frames from the inside. Note that each window
has a flange all the way around the outside perimeter to provide
a easy gluing surface. You may need to trim the flanges a little
closer than the factory did, in order to fit them in place. A sharp
scissors or snips works best for trimming the windows.

Glue the windows in place with 5-minute epoxy or RC-56 type
glue. Do not use thin CA glue because it can cloud the plastic.
Apply a thin bead of glue around the edge of the window and
press the window in place from the inside of the fuselage. Don’t
use too much glue or it may ooze out onto the outside surface of
the window. Use a few small pieces of low tack tape to hold the
window in place until the glue dries.

ACCEPTABLE BALANCE RANGE FOR T-CLIPS

is from 3-1/4" to 4-1/8"

AFT OF THE LEADING EDGE OF THE WING

The following table lists several acceptable measurements and
the equivalent percent of MAC (Mean Aerodynamic Chord).

DISTANCE

3-1/4" = 26%
3-1/2" = 28%
3-3/4" = 30%
4-1/8" = 33%

A balance point approximately 3-1/2” aft of the leading edge
(which is at the main wing spar) is ideal for initial test flights. After
test flying you can adjust the balance point to fit your flying style.

CONTROL SURFACE TRAVEL

The following control surface data has been flight tested with the
T-CLIPS. However these numbers are only recommended as a
starting point. Your flying style may dictate changes.

Elevator 7/8" up 35%-50% expo

Ailerons 7/16" up 35%-50% expo

Rudder 1-1/4" right 25%-40% expo

Elevator 1-1/2" up 55%-70% expo

Ailerons 3/4" up 55%-70% expo

Rudder 2" right 50% expo

15

% MAC

LOW RATE

7/8" down

7/16" down

1-1/4" left

HIGH RATE

1-1/2" down

3/4" down

2" left

FLYING

THE “T-CLIPS” STORY

When it comes to test flying a new model, we always advise mod­elers to choose a calm day with little or no wind. These conditions
allow you to better evaluate and more accurately adjust the trim
requirements for your airplane. As we’ve mentioned before, a
good running, reliable motor is a must for the ultimate success of
your airplane. Take the time to solve any power system problems
before you try to fly.

Always make it part of your pre-flight routine to check each control
on the airplane, making sure the surfaces are moving in the cor­rect directions. Also check each control linkage to be sure they
are secure and that nothing is loose. With all the controls
checked, make a range check with your radio system, making
sure everything is working perfectly.

"T-CLIPS" is the name given to a one-of-a-kind clipped wing Tay­lorcraft owned and flown by air show pilot Erik Edgren. Beginning
life in 1939 as a stock Taylorcraft Model BC-65, Erik's "T-CLIPS"
is powered by Continental C-85 engine, which was an original Tay­lorcraft factory option. That makes "T-CLIPS" the only clipped
wing T'craft currently flying air shows with an original size engine.
Erik refers to this as "Twistin It Old School".

“T-CLIPS” owner and air show pilot Erik Edgren.

(photo from October 2009 SPORT AEROBATICS magazine)

We hope that your T-CLIPS will provide you with many enjoyable
hours of flight. Good luck and safe flying!

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!

Flying machines of any form, either model-size or full-size, are not toys!

Because of the speeds that airplanes must achieve in order to fly, they

are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property damage if they

crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble

this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions, to

ground test the finished model before each flight to make sure it is com-

pletely airworthy, and to always fly your model in a safe location and in a

safe manner. The first test flights should only be made by an experienced

R/C flyer, familiar with high performance R/C aircraft.

JOIN THE AMA

The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States

is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, commonly called the

AMA. The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe opera-

tion of R/C model airplanes. While AMA membership is not necessarily

mandatory, it is required by most R/C flying clubs in the U.S. and provides

you with important liability insurance in case your R/C model should ever

cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else.

ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

5161 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Telephone: [phone]

AMA WEB SITE: www.model aircraft.org

Learn more at

www.ErikEdgrenAirshows.com

CUSTOMER SERVICE

SIG MFG. CO., INC. is committed to your success in both assembling
and flying the
this kit or discover any missing or damaged parts, please feel free to con­tact us by mail or telephone.

T-CLIPS ARF. Should you encounter any problem building

SIG MFG. CO., INC.

P.O. Box 520

401 South Front Street

Montezuma, IA 50171-0520

PHONE: [phone]
FAX: [phone]

SIG WEB SITE: www.sigmfg.com

SIG E-MAIL: [e-mail]

LIMIT OF LIABILITY

The craftsmanship, attention to detail and actions of the builder/flyer of
this model airplane kit will ultimately determine the airworthiness, flight
performance, and safety of the finished model. SIG MFG. CO.’s obligation
shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing.
The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her
intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.

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