ShopBot HandiBot User Manual

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Handibot User’s Guide

This is a guide for app developers, and other "first adopters" of our HandiBot Tool. It provides

an introduction to our control software and the basic functions of the Tool.

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1. Handibot Setup Guide

 Safety  Handibot Anatomy  Software installation  Connect to your computer  Launch the software  Software fundamentals  Inserting a router bit  Zeroing the Z axis  Zeroing the X and Y axes  Ready to cut

Handibot User’s Guide

Table of Contents

2. Control software screen reference chart

3. Choosing the right bit for your project

 Types of bits  Calculating cut speed and RPM using Chip Load values

4. Holding down material for cutting

Please note: this document was written for our full-size tools, some hold-down methods may not apply to use with a HandiBot

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HandiBot Setup Guide

Written By: ShopBot Tools

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 1 — Safety

As with any power tool, there are

inherent risks to using the

Handibot. Following these safety

rules can reduce your risk of injury.

Eye and ear protection MUST be

worn at all times by the operator

and anyone in the area.

Keep hands away from the cutter

at all times. Turn off the power

switch at the top of the router

before changing bits or placing

your hands near the router.

Never wear gloves when

operating the Handibot. Gloves

can get caught in rotating parts and

pull your hand into the cutter.

Never leave the machine running

and unattended. A spinning cutter

generates friction, which is a fire

hazard. Keep a fire extinguisher in

your work area.

Take time to learn about and

understand this tool before using

it. Do not allow untrained

individuals to operate the tool

without supervision.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 2 — Handibot anatomy

Take a moment to familiarize yourself with the major components of your Handibot. We

will refer to the tool using these terms, so they are helpful to know.

It is very important to understand the axis orientation of your tool, as well as the location of

XY(0,0). This is also referred to as the home position. We'll explain this further once you

have the software installed and can control the machine using your computer.

Step 3 — Handibot anatomy (rear)

Take a moment to familiarize

yourself with the major components

of your Handibot. We will refer to

the tool using these terms, so they

are helpful to know.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 4 — Loading the software

Computer requirements: You'll need a PC running Windows XP Pro or later, with a

minimum of 2GB RAM. The HandiBot requires one USB 2.0 port for connection (USB 3.0 is

not currently supported).

USB 3.0 ports can often be identified by looking for a blue outline or SS (SuperSpeed) logo

near the port.

Locate the ShopBot USB drive that came with your HandiBot and plug it into your

computer. Alternatively, you should have received an email containing a link to download

the software.

Do not plug the USB cable from your Handibot into your computer until instructed to do so

in Step 5.

Open the install_shopbot.exe file

Follow the on-screen prompts

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 5 — Software installation - con't.

You should now have these four

icons on the desktop of your

computer

ShopBot 3 is the Control Software-

the main interface between your

computer and the HandiBot.

ShopBot Editor (SbEdit) allows you

to read and directly edit ShopBot

part files

VCarve Pro ShopBot Edition is a

2D CAD/CAM program that enables

you to design parts, import vectors,

apply toolpaths, and create part

files that your Handibot can cut.

Partworks 3D is a 3D CAM

program. It allows you to import a

3D model that was created in

another program, and apply

toolpaths to create a part file.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 6 — Connect to your computer

Your Handibot runs on 110V / 15A power like any other portable power tool. Simply plug

into the wall and you're almost ready to go.

However, we do not recommend plugging it into a GFCI (ground fault circuit

interrupter) outlet. These are commonly found in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and

outdoors.

Plug the Handibot's USB cable into your computer.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 7

Turn the Handibot on using the main power switch on the back of the machine. Keep in

mind that there is also a power switch on top of the router, which will need to be turned on

before you cut anything.

With the main power switch on, you should see a line of green LED lights inside the work

area. This indicates that the Handibot is "ready to work."

When the motors are moving, you will see a line of rapidly blinking red LEDs. This is a

warning light to keep hands and stray objects away from the work area.

When the router is activated by a part file or in keypad mode, the red LEDs will start

blinking slowly.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 8 — Launch the software

The latest version of ShopBot

control software can always be

downloaded for free from the

Shopbot website.

Double-click on the ShopBot 3 icon

to launch the ShopBot control

software.

The first time you open the

program you will be prompted to

load a settings file for the machine.

Click OK when prompted, then

select Handibot and click Open.

This will load all the correct

settings for your Handibot.

Step 9

If you aren't prompted to load your settings file or if you need to reload them in the future,

you can do so by navigating to the Utilities drop-down menu and choosing Reset Default

Settings.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 10 — Calibrate Proximity Switch Offset

You are able to set the offset distance between your proximity switch trigger point and

home location for the X and Y axes. Making this distance .05" allows you to use your full

cutting area.

Navigate to the Tools drop down menu and select ShopBot Setup.

When the popup box appears, click next. At the bottom of the next window, check the box

next to " I have prox switches..." and uncheck all the others.

Step 11

Select the option "I like doing

things the hard way..."

Toward the bottom of the page,

change the values for the X and Y

switch offset distances to -.05"

Click "Next" then on the

subsequent screen click "I'm done"

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 12 — Switch to FULL mode

By default, ShopBot 3 opens up in "Easy Mode." This offers a streamlined interface that

makes it easier for beginners to use the software. Full mode can be used to fully explore

the functionality of the software for the coming steps.

Click the blue question mark button shown here, then choose "Switch to FULL."

Step 13

Once you enter Full Mode, you will

see the console window appear.

Notice the Menu bar at the top, and

the command line below it. You will

use the command line frequently to

type simple commands and

keyboard shortcuts.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 14 — Software fundamentals

The ShopBot Control Panel: this gives you access to essential machine information and

controls. Start by clicking on the yellow button shown here. This will bring up the Keypad

panel.

The Keypad panel allows you to manually move the X, Y, and Z axes of your machine.

Give it a try. Click the blue buttons to move your machine in each axis.

These buttons correspond to the arrow keys on your keyboard. You can use either method

at any time.

Close the Keypad by clicking the X in the upper right corner, or hit ESC on your keyboard.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 15 — Insert a router bit

Before inserting or changing a router bit, turn off the power switch at the top of the

router.

Use the Keypad to move the router to the center of the work area so you can reach the

yellow spindle lock button. Carefully move the Z down so that the base of the router is just

above the clear dust shield

Flip the Handibot over so that the base plate is facing you.

You may need to loosen the collet nut before inserting a bit. Hold down the spindle lock

(the yellow button shown here) and use the included collet wrench to loosen the nut.

If inserting a V-bit, slide the bit all the way into the collet, then pull it back so that about

1/2" of the shank is exposed. If inserting an end mill bit, insert just until the machining for

the cutting edges starts.

Hold down the spindle lock button and tighten the collet nut.

Use the Keypad to move the router bit up above the base plate before flipping the Handibot

back onto its base.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 16 — Zero the Z axis

For safety, you should turn your

router's power switch OFF.

Position the Handibot on the

material that you will be cutting.

Use the Keypad to move the router

bit (X and Y axes) towards the

center of the work area. Place a

piece of cardstock (like a business

card) under the router bit.

Use the Keypad to move the Z

down just until the tip of the bit

touches the cardstock. When you

get close, you can click on the

"fixed" button on the Keypad to

move the Z in small increments.

With your other hand, move the

cardstock back and forth until you

can feel the router bit "catch" the

cardstock. Stop here.

Click on the blue Zero button on the

Keypad and check that you wish to

Zero the Z axis. Click OK. OR,

close out of Keypad and use ZZ

from the menu.

Remember to turn on the power to

the router before you start cutting.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Step 17 — Zero the X and Y axes

Click the "Zero XY axes" button

shown here (you can also type a

C3 command from your keyboard).

The tool will touch off each

proximity switch twice before

coming to rest at XY(0,0).

You should perform this step each

time your turn your Handibot on to

ensure accurate cuts.

If you wish to check that you have

full travel in the X and Y axes

before you try cutting a file, use the

Cut Rectangle (CR) command in

the ShopBot Menu. Enter a value of

6 for the X axis and 8 for the Y

axis, and Start the file. If you do

not hear the motors stalling in

either axes, move on to the next

step.

If you do hear the motors stalling,

you may have to do a one-time set

up to change the offset from the

proximity switches. See step 10.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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This document wa s last generated on 20 14-02-10 12:19:06 PM.

Step 18 — Ready to cut

For light jobs (shallow engraving,

etc), the weight of the Handibot is

enough to keep it from shifting.

For deeper cuts, you will either

need to clamp the Handibot to the

material or hold it using the

outboard handles.

Make sure that the router's

power switch is on.

With the X/Y and Z axes zeroed,

you are ready to load a cut file. On

the top menu bar, click on File >

Load Part File (or type an FP

command from your keyboard).

Follow the on-screen prompts, and

your Handibot will begin cutting.

HandiBot Setup Guide

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Selecting the right bit for your project

Good edge quality on most materials

Moderate chip clearing abilities

Ideal for: general-purpose cutting

May chip or fray top face, good quality on bottom face when through-cutting

Excels at clearing chips and dissipating heat, especially with “o-flute” bits

Upwards force may cause part lifting

Ideal for: plastics, aluminum, or any material where heat buildup is a concern

Best edge quality on top face, may chip or fray bottom face when through-cutting

May compact chips in a groove

Downwards force may help with cutting thin sheets

Ideal for: plywood and laminates (pocketing)

Clean edge on both top and bottom face

Designed to cut veneered or laminated materials at full depth in one pass

Ideal for: plywood and laminates (profile cutting)

Bit material: Router bits are made from a variety of materials. The most common are solid carbide, carbide-tipped steel, and high-speed steel. Both solid carbide and carbidetipped are good choices. We do not recommend using high-speed steel bits as they dull quickly and must be re-sharpened.

Flute type: There are four basic flute types: Straight, spiral up-cut, spiral down-cut, and compression. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are outlined in the chart below.

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between a square-end bit and

What’s the difference

an end mill?

An end mill has cutting flutes that extend across the bottom (end) of

the bit. It is designed for plungecutting as well as lateral cutting.

“Square-end” is simply a description of end shape. Square-end bits are not always end mills, and end mills do not always have square ends.

The first image below shows a true end mill, and the second shows a

straight-fluted, square-end bit that is not an end mill. A ramp-in must be

applied to a toolpath when using this type of bit.

more heat, but also puts more stress on the cutter. Each material has its own ideal chip load range that balances heat dissipation with cutter stress.

A basic chart for common materials is available in the SB3 software. Click on Tools > Chip Load Calculator, then click on Chip Load Help. You can use this chart along with the Chip Load Calculator to determine a good starting speed for each toolpath. More detailed chip load charts are available online at Onsrud’s website (www.onsrud.com).

When calculating feeds/speeds for a toolpath, do not rely on the defaults in your tool database. Those values are only placeholders and are not intended for any particular material.

Number of flutes: The number of flutes on a bit is essential to calculating proper feed and speed rates. For most applications you can use a bit with 1, 2, or 3 flutes, but you must adjust your reed rates and RPM accordingly to maintain proper chip load.

End shape: Straight and up-spiral bits come in a variety of end shapes. Square ends are most common, and are a good choice for creating pockets and grooves, profile cutting, simple lettering, and drilling operations. Ball (or rounded) ends are best for 3D carving. V-carve bits are often used to create complex letters for sign making. They can also be used to chamfer edges and create countersinks for screw holes.

Calculating feeds/speed with Chip Load:

Chip load refers to the actual thickness of the chip cut

by each revolution of the cutter. It is the measurement that all feed/speed calculations are based on.

A spinning bit generates friction and heat as it moves through the material, and part of this heat is pulled away by the flying chips. A larger chip load pulls away

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Holding down material for cutting

Choosing the right hold-down method for your project can be challenging, but it is an important part of project planning. Not only does the work piece need to be held securely, but you need to be aware of what will happen to parts as they are cut from the surrounding material. Small parts can be caught by the cutter and thrown across the room, causing serious injury or damage.

The following information is a brief overview of different methods to help you get started.

Screws

If you have a spoilboard set up, you can screw the workpiece directly to the table. This is a quick and easy method that works well for most materials. However, this requires careful planning to make sure that all the screws are clear of the cut path.

With larger jobs you may want to create a hold down toolpath based on the location of other toolpaths in the file. This will create clearance holes for the screws in locations that you know are safe. When using an end mill for drilling, there is very little lateral force on the piece so less holding power is needed. One clamp on each end of the material is enough.

Shown here: In our CAD/CAM software, we used the circle vector tool to place several hole locations around the parts. The drilling toolpath is saved as a separate part file so it can be run first. Then the material is screwed down through these holes, and the main cut file can be run safely.

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C-Clamp

Toggle clamp

Cam edge clamp

T-track hold-down clamps

A block of wood with a rabbet (groove on one side) can be used on each side. The rabbet height should be slightly less than the material height, allowing it to pull down tightly when screwed in place.

A thin, slightly flexible strip of wood can be used on varying material thicknesses. Glue a smaller strip across it, which will butt against the material to prevent slipping.

T-track tables and rails

The Shopbot Buddy and Desktop Tools have an aluminum table base that is ideal for setting up moveable clamps and fixtures. On full-size machines, you can set up your own system using T-track rails (available from woodworking supply stores), inlaid into the MDF deck. If you use this method, be sure that the rails sit low enough below the surface that they are out of the way when through-cutting.

Clamps

Whether you are working with a metal T-track table or a spoilboard, there are a variety of clamps that you can use to secure your material. Clamps offer strong holding power and are ideal when you do not have excess material to drive screws into. However, they require careful planning to avoid running the tool into the clamps.

You can also create clamps using scraps of wood. Here are two examples:

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A tight press-fit jig provides good holding power and can be made quickly and accurately using your Shopbot.

This is a good solution for holding small work pieces, extra-thick stock, or if the material has already been cut to its final size and there is no room for screws.

Shown here: two pieces of MDF have been glued together and pocketed out to hold this piece of hardwood. The jig is screwed to the table, then the workpiece is pressed in.

Double-sided duct tape

VHB foam tapes

(image ©3M)

Super 77 spray adhesive

(image ©3M)

Press-fit jigs

Adhesives

Adhesives can be more difficult to work with, but they offer some advantages over other methods. This can work well for thin materials that cannot be held by a press-fit jig. More surface area = more holding power, so small projects will require additional hold-downs.

To use tape adhesive, both the table and work piece must be clean, flat, and dust-free. If you plan to cut all the way through the material, keep the tape away from the planned toolpath if possible (it may gum up the cutter, reducing cut quality for the rest of the part).

For spray adhesive, we recommend a 3M product called Super 77 which forms an extremely strong bond within minutes. To avoid damaging your table, bond the workpiece to a scrap board that is clean and flat, then clamp or

screw this board to your table. Some people prefer to glue a layer of paper between the workpiece and support board. This can weaken the bond, but it makes removal easier. Try both methods on some scrap so that you can compare for yourself.

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Adding tabs in V-Carve Pro

Example of tabs on a part

Vacuum hold-down systems

A well-sealed vacuum system can be one of the most convenient and effective hold-down methods. It is ideal for repetitive cutting of plywood and other large sheet materials.

Shopbot offers several kits for full-table vacuum systems on our Gantry tools. For other models (or small projects) it is possible to build your own. This document is only meant as an introduction to hold-down systems, so we

won’t get into the details of that here. There are many resources online for both commercially available and DIY vacuum systems. A google search for “CNC vacuum hold-down” will get you started.

Holding small parts within the material

Once you secure your material, you still need to consider what will happen to parts as you cut them out. Large parts may shift as they are cut free, leading to a small gouge or notch along the edge. Smaller parts can be destroyed or thrown by the cutter.

There are two ways that you can handle this from within the software. The first option is to create tabs, or leftover

“bridges” of material between the part and its surrounding area. Most CAM programs will have an automated

feature for this. The feature for Partworks/ V-Carve Pro / Aspire is shown here.

A second option is to leave an “onion skin,” or very thin layer of material at the bottom of a profile cut. Just set the final cut depth at slightly less than the thickness of your material (typically .010” - .030”, depending on material and

size). The advantage is that the onion skin provides better hold and can be easier to trim/sand away than a series of thick tabs. However, if there is a lot of variance in the thickness of your material, or if your table is not flat, then you may end up cutting too deep or too shallow and this method will not work correctly.