Soldering Iron
Solder
Cutting Pliers
Masking Tape
Multimeter
02. Panel Sides
J1
J6
R7R8J5J3J4R10J2R9
D3
R24
R22
D9
R11
J10
R17
D7
J9
D5
J13
R1
C1
C2
IC2
R27
Q1
D10
P1
D6
D8
J15
J16
R5
J7
J8
R4
R21
R12
J11
R13
J12
R14
R18
J14
R20
L2
R19
R26
L1
R25
R16
R15
IC3
P2
C3
IC4
R2
D1
D2
D4
SHAKMAT MODULAR
BISHOP’S MISCELLANY V1.1
IC1
PSH
R23R3S1S3S4S2R6
FrontRear
The front of the PCB is the one with the switches, jack connectors
and potentiometers on it. The top of the board is the connectors
side, the bottom is the switches side. Almost all the components
goes to the front of the PCB. Here is a list of the components that
goes to the rear side :
• 1 x 8 pin socket + IC
• 1 x 14 pin socket + IC
• 1 x 28 pin socket + IC
• Power supply header
03. Important Note
If you feel you're going to build this kit without looking at the steps, just
remember this : don't solder the switches without placing them into the front panel first. If you don't want the final PCB & front panel assembly
becoming a real pain, do this, seriously. We also strongly recommand to
have a look to the step 04_10 that require unexpected cuts on the potentiometers.
04. Step by Step Assembly
04_1. Diodes
There's two kind of diodes : 9 tiny
ones (1N4148) and a bigger one
(Zenner 1N4742) that goes to
the left of LENGTH potentiometer.
Diodes orientation has to match
the PCB silkscreen. The white
line on the silkscreen has to
match the black bar on the component, as show here :
A
A
A
A
Black line on
component
X9Pack 2/5
1N4148
X1Pack 1/5
ZennerB
A
White line
on PCB
B
A
A
A
A
A
04_2. Flat Resistors
Here's a picture of the PCB with
placement of the flat resistors by
value. There’s no polarity to observe
with resistors, so you can solder
them no matter the way. Once
soldered, you’ve to cut the excess of
the resistor legs with a pair of
cutting p!iers. This has to be done
for most of the build’s components.
X12
Pack 1/5
A
A
A
B
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
6.8k
X1
1k
X2
1M
X4
100k
04_3. Capacitors
Quite simple, Two 22pf, in red on
the picture, and one 100nF in blue.
X1
100nF
A
Pack 1/5
B
Pack 1/5
C
Pack 2/5
D
Pack 1/5
A
BB
C
C
D
D
DD
A
X2
22pF
Pack 2/5
B
04_4. Quartz
The quartz has to lay flat and fits
the shape on the PCB silkscreen.
X1 Pack 2/5
16 MHz
04_5. 78L05
Bend the middle leg of the 78L05,
then place the component on the
PCB, like shown on the silkscreen.
X1Pack 2/5
78L05
04_6. Standing Resistors
Only one leg of the
resistor have to be
bent before soldering. Don’t bend the
leg too high or it will
cause short-circuit
with the panel :
X3 Pack 1/5
1k
X2 Pack 1/5
6.8k
A
B
BB
X2 Pack 2/5
100k
X2 Pack 2/5
OR
33k
C
A
A
C
D
B
B
A
C
X1 Pack 1/5
22
D
04_7. Jack Connectors
There are 16 jack connectors, that
have to sit tight and flush with the
PCB. Be sure to push them all the
way through before soldering. A
good way to do so is by pushing the
PCB from behind on your table
while all the jack connectors are in
place but unsoldered.
X16Pack 3/5
Jack
04_8. IC Sockets
Now, let’s flip the PCB and solder
the three IC’s sockets. Be attentive
to their orientation. The notch on
the silkscreen (marked in red on the
picture) as to match the notch on
the socket. Be careful not to miss
any of the tiny socket legs or to
bridge two of them with solder.
SHAKMAT MODULAR
BISHOP’S MISCELLANY V1.1
X3Plastic tubbing
04_9. Power Supply Header
Solder only one leg of the header,
verify that it’s flush with the PCB &
then solder the 9 other legs.
X1
Header
04_10. Potentiometers
Let's go back to the front side. First you'll have to remove a little bit of metal
on the potentiometer as shown in the picture. Then you can solder them.
X2Pack 4/5
Pack 3/5
Cut
04_11. Switches
First, finger tighten the switches on the panel with their nuts. Then
assemble the panel with the PCB while the switches are mounted. Finally
solder the legs.
04_12. LEDs
Remove the front panel, put the
LEDs into place in the PCB. Be very
careful to get them the right way
around. The longer leg goes into
the hole marked with a plus in the
picture.
Before soldering the legs, put the
front panel on. Finger tighten the
nuts on the jack, switches and pots.
Put the LEDs into place pointing
through the holes in the front
panel, and align them flush. A good
way to do this is to stick a small
piece of masking tape covering the
LEDs holes helping them to stay in
place.
Masking
tape
11
-
+
-
+
X2
LED
Pack 2/5
1
+
!
-
LED
POLARITY
04_13. ICs
Plug the IC’s in thieir sockets, make
sure their orientations matches the
socket orientation.
X3
-12
04_14. Testing
Now let's have a visual test : is
everything correctly soldered ? Are
the diodes orientation right ? Are
the IC’s orientation OK ? Is there any
shape on the PCB silkscreen that is
not covered by a component ? Take
some minutes to carrefully check
everything.
-12
GND
+12v-12v
Now take a multimeter and check if there's no shortcut between the
ground, 12V and -12V pins on the power header. If nothing’s wrong, you’re
good to go ! Plug the power cable and make sure the red stripe of the
cable matches the -12V on the PCB silkscreen. Don't forget to add the
nuts on the connectors, switches and potentiometers, finally add the
knobs. Now let's plug the module in your system and test it. The module
LEDs doesn't blink if the module
isn't running. So don't panic if the
modules seems quiet when nothing is
connected to it. A fast and easy way
to check if the module is working is to
feed the clock input with a trig gate
signal, turn the REC and RNDM
switch ON (that's to say down) & both
LEDs should be randomly blinking.
-12
If ever you get some troubles or questions,
send us an email at
support@shakmatmodular.com.
To download the Bishop’s Miscellany
Operation Manual, go to our website
(address below) and navigate to the
support section.
There are two different firmware available
for the Bishop’s Miscellany.
V1.0 to v1.2 all operate the same way but
the 2.0 firmware introduces some
new functionnalities & replaces some other.
For info about the 2.0 firmware usage,
please refer to the appropriate video
on our YouTube channel.
www.shakmatmodular.com
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