Serpent 950 Instruction Manual

Instruction Manual

2

Overview

Congratulations with your newly acquired Serpent 950.
You have chosen for the highest quality and ultimate
performance combined with ease of use in assembling
and set-up as well as superior technical support.

Serpent has a tradition with instruction manuals, and
with the new Serpent 950 manual we have yet again
gone a step further. The new lay-out has easy to
follow step-by-step assembly instructions and building
tips, richly illustrated with 3-D rendered images and
printed in full color. Following the steps in the manual
will result in a well built high performance racing car
that will soon be able to unleash its full potential on
the racing track.

Instructions

This manual has 9 sections that will lead you through
the assembly process of each of the sections of your
Serpent 950. Following this order will ensure that no
problems occur during assembly.

Each of the steps includes an area where all the
screws, fasteners and ball bearings are shown which
are used in that particular step. When a bag number is
shown at the top of the left box, you will need to open
the bag that is labeled with that number.

Set-up

In certain assembly steps you need to make basic
adjustments. These basic adjustments will give you a

good rough set-up for your Serpent 950 once the car
is completed. Fine-tuning the basic set-up is necessary
however, this is an essential part of the process of
building a high performance mode racing car like the
Serpent 950.

The Set-up Guidelines in section 9 of this manual help
you to adjust your Serpent 950. It is very important to
follow this procedure and to be accurate with your
adjustments, not only now, but every time you are
preparing the car to go practicing or racing. This is
how the best drivers in the world do it, simple,
straight forward and accurate!

Exploded views and parts list

The parts list and the exploded views for the Serpent
950 are separate from the Instruction manual. The
exploded views show all the parts for a particular
assembly step, together with the Serpent part number.
In the parts list at the back of the Reference Guide
you will find, with the part number, the name of the
part for easy reference when re-ordering.

Safety precautions

We have enclosed a document with safety precautions
concerning the assembly and use of this product,
named 'Read this first'. In your own interest, read this
document and follow the precautions.

Description Page

1.0 Shock Assembly 4

2.0 Front Assembly 7

3.0 Rear Assembly 10

4.0 Radio Plate Assembly 14

5.0 Radio Plate Mounting 17

6.0 Gearbox Assembly 20

7.0 Centax Assembly 22

8.0 Final Assembly 25

9.0 Setup Guidelines 29

Introduction

Contents

PERFORMANCETHROUGHEVOLUTION

3

Length measured after assembling between the two black lines.

How to use

In every step you will see a selection of lines and numbers. The numbers represent the order in which the
step should be assembled. The lines and symbols are listed below each with their own explanation as to
their use.

Key

Description

To display the path of one element into another.

The parts within the lines should be assembled first.

The direction the item should be moved.

Shows where one element should be glued to another.

Shows where one part should be pressed / inserted into another.

Displays where two elements should be connected to each other.

The gap between two elements.

OW

Displays where either CA glue / Graphite Grease / Thread Lock / or
Serpent’s Oneway lube should be applied (items not included).

myTSN.com

The manual that comes with your Serpent 950 is
very complete. However, as development is a
continuous process, up-to-date information about
the Serpent 950 is provided on our web portal:
myTSN.com, the state-of-the-art r/c technology
portal where Serpent racers from all over the world
meet and exchange their ideas and share useful
information about, and experiences with, their
Serpent cars.

All information about the Serpent 950 is grouped
around the product page on myTSN.com. This page
can be accessed directly by going to the Products
section and type Serpent 950 in the product search
box.

Here you will find the very latest information about
your Serpent 950: reports by Team racers and
other experts with the latest tips and tricks, FAQ,

forums, set-ups, image gallery, downloadable files,
and even streaming video about the Serpent 950
on how to further improve the car. The latest
version of the manual including team and racer
tips, as well as part lists and option lists will be
made available as both downloadable PDF-files and
viewable online under i-Manual in the Serpent 950
product page.

So make sure to visit myTSN and the Serpent 950
page. There is a world of up-to-date information
about your 950 waiting for you, and it is just a few
mouse clicks away… If not yet a member of
myTSN, we strongly suggest to sign up as a
member immediately so you can experience and
enjoy an even wider range of services from Serpent
and other myTSN partners.

www.myTSN.com/Serpent950

4

Step 1.1

Bag 01

Shock Assembly

N3

3x6x0.3mm

R2

2.3mm

R1

1.9mm

Step 1.2

Shock Assembly

Step 1.3

Shock Assembly

Y17

12.1x1.6mm

1.0 Shock Assembly

1

2

4

1

2

3

Long shock shaft goes into
long shock body (rear)

Remove plastic flashing for
smooth movement of pistons

Step 1.4

Shock Assembly

Y4

3.1x1.6mm

Step 1.5

Shock Assembly

Step 1.6

Shock Assembly

5

1

2

Fill the cylinder with shock oil, with the piston in the
bottom position.

Bleeding sequence: Let the oil settle and allow the air
to escape. Slowly move the piston up and down until
no more bubbles appear.

Hold the shock rod firm using plyers, grip on the
part where the thread begins, do not damage the
shock rod. Turn the ball-joint on to the shock rod.

6

Step 1.7

Shock Assembly

Step 1.8

Shock Assembly

1

2

4

3

2

1

hardsoft

Dampening adjustment

Pull the piston rod all the way down, turn
slightly to lock the position of the cylinder.

You can then adjust the shocks by rotating
the shaft in clockwise and counter clock­wise clicks from position 1-4.

Short Springs (on short shock)- Front
Long Springs (on long shock)- Rear

1

2

3

4

Shock length adjustment

Check the length of the shocks,
adjust with the ball-joint.

Shock Front: 67,5mm
Shock Rear: 76,5mm

In full extended, locked position.

Line up
notch

7

Step 2.1

Bag 02,U

Front Assembly

Y12

10.3x1.8mm

Step 2.2

Bag 03,G20

Front Assembly

G20

M4x12mm

2.0 Front Assembly

1

2

2

3

3

1

1

2

OW

OW

U14

12x21mm

8

Step 2.3

Bag 04

Front Assembly

G20

M4x12mm

E11

M3x8mm

Step 2.4

Bag B13,05

Front Assembly

B13

3.5x13mm

U6

6x13mm

1

2

3

4

1

1

2

1mm

Step 2.5

Front Assembly

J16

4x4mm

R5

5mm

R7

7mm

Step 2.6

Bag 06

Front Assembly

H13

3x12mm

H19

4x10mm

J16

4x4mm

Step 2.7

Bag 07

Front Assembly

E13

3x12mm

H17

4x6mm

9

3

1

2

4

5

6

5

2

4

3

1

1

2

4

2

3

10

Step 3.1

Bag 08,09

Rear Assembly

G20

M4x12mm

P10

2.5x22mm

Q14

3x16mm

R5

5mm

Step 3.2

Bag 10,11

Rear Assembly

B13

3.5x13mm

G20

M4x12mm

J16

4x4mm

P12

3x12mm

3.0 Rear Assembly

1

2

3

9

4

10

11

7

5

6

8

1

2

5

3

4

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

Roughen the metal plates with
sandpaper before gluing

U8

6x15mm

U14

12x21mm

U8

6x15mm

Q14

P9

P10

P9

2.5x20mm

11

Step 3.3

Bag 12,13

Rear Assembly

B13

3.5x13mm

E11

3x8mm

E18

4x8mm

G20

M4x12mm

Step 3.4

Bag 14

Rear Assembly

E11

3x8mm

NN4

3.2x9x0.1mm

3

1

4

6

7

10

8

9

11

12

1

4

4

2

5

2

13

1.3mm

49mm

1:1

H13

3x12mm

H19

4x10mm

H22

4x20mm

J16

4x4mm

4

3

Use the special tool to aid you in
placing the steel pivot ball into
the wishbone end point.

3

Note: The anti-roll bar must move freely in

order to operate correctly - never over tighten
the mounting screws.

12

Step 3.5

Bag 15,16

Rear Assembly

P10

2.5x22mm

Step 3.6

Rear Assembly

G21

M4x16mm

2

1

3

4

5

1

2

18.6mm

17.6mm

Rear

Front

U14

12x21mm

13

Step 3.7

Bag 17

Rear Assembly

E10

3x6mm

G11

3x8mm

Step 3.8

Bag 18

Rear Assembly

E13

3x12mm

E14

3x16mm

R2

2.3mm

1

2

6

6

3

3

4

5

5

1

2

34

H13

3x12mm

14

Step 4.1

Bag 19,20

Radio Plate Assembly

E11

3x8mm

H9

3x4mm

Step 4.2

Radio Plate Assembly

E135

3x14mm

4.0 Radio Plate Assembly

1

2

3

4

1

2

Note. For clockwise circuits with mostly
right hand corners the fuel tank lid nipple
should be placed on the right side of the
lid and the grubscrew on the opposite
side. The opposite is true for anti clokwise
tracks with mostly left hand corners.

15

Step 4.3

Bag 21

Radio Plate Assembly

E11

3x8mm

G19

M4x10mm

Step 4.4

Radio Plate Assembly

E13

3x12mm

Step 4.5

Bag 22

Radio Plate Assembly

G20

M4x12mm

1

2

3

4

5

2

1

3

46.5mm

1:1

On the servo arm is a number that
corresponds to the amount of teeth.
23 - Sanwa / KO / JR
24 - Hitec
25 - Futaba

16

Step 4.6

Radio Plate Assembly

J16

4x4mm

Step 4.7

Bag 23

Radio Plate Assembly

G18

M4x8mm

2

1

3

4

17

Step 5.1

Radio Plate Mounting

G19

M4x10mm

G20

M4x12mm

Step 5.2

Radio Plate Mounting

G19

M4x10mm

G20

M4x12mm

G21

M4x16mm

5.0 Radio Plate Mounting

1

2

3

2

1

1

2

3

4

G20

G21

G19

Battery pack is made up from 5 x AAA
750MAH NIMH cells.
*Batteries and switch not included

G19

G19

G20

G20

18

Step 5.3

Bag 24,25

Radio Plate Mounting

E10

3x6mm

P10

2.5x22mm

U14

12x21mm

Step 5.4

Radio Plate Mounting

Step 5.5

Bag 26

Radio Plate Mounting

E11

3x8mm

E17

4x6mm

2

1

1

3

4

5

6

1

2

1

1

3

4

4

3mm

2.7mm

The left steering block can
be distinguished by 4 dots.

L3

M3

19

Step 5.6

Radio Plate Mounting

Step 5.7

Radio Plate Mounting

H10

3x6mm

1

2

3

3

1

2

2

88.5mm

1:1

You can screw the hex head
graphite balls into place from the
bottom of the chassis.

20

Step 6.1

Bag 27

Gearbox Assembly

E13

3x12mm

Step 6.2

Bag 28

Gearbox Assembly

G10

M3x6mm

6.0 Gearbox Assembly

3

1

1

3

2

1

2

Note: A good starting

point is to have the
screw head flush with
the shoe. Ensure that
both sides are set
equally.

Screw IN both adjusting screws
to shift LATER.

Screw OUT both adjusting screws
to shift EARLIER.

21

Step 6.3

Gearbox Assembly

G10

M3x6mm

U6

6x13mm

V5

6x10mm

Step 6.4

Gearbox Assembly

P13

3x13.8mm

R5

5mm

1

2

2

3

1

2

3

4

5

OW

22

Step 7.1

Bag 29

Centax Assembly

M21

7x13x0.5mm

Step 7.2

Centax Assembly

7.0 Centax Assembly

0.5mm

23

Step 7.3

Bag 30

Centax Assembly

Step 7.4

Centax Assembly

Step 7.5

Centax Assembly

F14

3x16mm

5.2mm 5mm

AB

B

A

9.2mm

24

Step 7.6

Centax Assembly

Step 7.7

Centax Assembly

M14

5x10x0.1mm
5x10x0.3mm

U4

5x10mm

U45

5x13mm

Adjusting the Clutch Gap

With only the thrust bearing installed push the bell housing in, and on to the clutch
shoe and measure the distance between the outer edge of the black thrust bearing
carrier and the top of the bell housing.

This is measurement A

Now pull the clutch housing away from the clutch shoe and against the thrust bearing.
Measure the distance between the outer edge of the black thrust bearing carrier and
the top of the bell housing again.

This is measurement B
The correct clutch spacing is 0.7mm
Calculate the thickness of the required shims as follows:

A - B - 0.7mm = Thickness of shims required
For example: A = 1.3mm and B = 0.3mm

Shim thickness = 1.3 - 0.3 - 0.7 = 0.3mm
These shims should be placed before the thrust bearing on the thrust bearing carrier as

shown.

A

B

Shims

Place small shims to remove all
but a small amount of end play

25

Step 8.1

Bag 31

Final Assembly

F13

3x12mm

G27

M5x12mm

Step 8.2

Bag 32

Final Assembly

E14

3x16mm

G19

M4x10mm

G20

M4x12mm

8.0 Final Assembly

1

2

2

1

2

3

3

G20

26

Step 8.3

Bag 33

Final Assembly

H9

3x4mm

Step 8.4

Bag 34

Final Assembly

C5

2.5x8mm

E11

3x8mm

1

2

1

2

3

1

2

4

3

6

5

Cut the throttle rod to your desired length.
Bend both rods to best suit your requirements.

Threaded end

On the servo arm is a number that
corresponds to the amount of teeth.
23 - Sanwa / KO / JR
24 - Hitec
25 - Futaba

Step 8.5

Bag 35

Final Assembly

A13

3.5x13mm

G19

M4x10mm

Step 8.6

Bag 36

Final Assembly

H17

4x6mm

27

1

2

3

3

4

5

5

1

2

3

5

6

4

G18

M4x8mm

28

Step 8.7

Final Assembly

Step 8.8

Final Assembly

1

1

2

29

9.0 Setup Guidelines

Setting up a racecar with fully independent suspension, like your
Serpent 950, is necessary to make the car perform well. We have
developed these straightforward procedures to help you set up your
car properly and easily. Always follow these procedures step-by­step, in the order presented, and always make sure that you make
equal adjustments on both left and right sides of the car.

The set-up described here is a good starting point, but you may
adjust the settings to better suit different track conditions. Make
only small adjustments at a time, and see if you find any improve­ment in handling with each adjustment. We advise you to keep
track of your set-up changes, and record which set-ups work best
at different racetracks under various conditions. After rebuilding the
chassis, or in case you are lost with your set-up, always return to
the set-up described here.

1 Shock absorbers

Shock absorber dampening influences the responsiveness of the
chassis during cornering (chassis roll), and helps to maintain proper
contact between the tire and the road surface during vertical move­ment. Setting the right dampening is therefore always a compro­mise and requires a lot of "hands on" experience.

No dampening means that the spring rate determines how long it
takes for the spring to compress and the suspension to reach a sta­ble position. Dampening only comes into play when the suspension
is moving (either vertical chassis movement or because of chassis
roll), and loses its effect when the suspension has reached a stable
position. When the spring is compressed or decompressed, the
shock absorber oil resists this movement. How much it resists
depends on the thickness of the oil and how much the flow is
restricted (the number of holes in the shock piston) and of the
velocity of the piston.

How to measure and adjust

The Serpent shock absorbers are
adjustable from the outside. Pull out the
pistonrod and turn it slightly until it
locks in the shock-cylinder. By turning
the pistonrod clockwise until the end
you reach the hardest position (1 hole).
Turning it from here anti-clockwise
means opening more holes. By feeling
the "clicks" you can determine the num­ber of holes in the piston.

1.1 Front shock absorber setting

Adjust the front shocks to 2 holes (complete turn clockwise, then 1
click back)

1.2 Rear shock absorber setting

Adjust the rear shocks to 2 holes (complete turn clockwise, then 1
clicks back)

2 Track-width

Track-width affects the car's handling and steering response.
Increasing front track-width will result in more understeer, while
decreasing it will result in less understeer and faster steering
response.

Increasing rear track-width creates more rear traction, as long as
the car has a solid rear axle as it is in the 950. It may also help in
case of traction rolling.

2.1 Front track-width - Setting

Front track-width is measured on the out­side of the wheels. It is important that
the front track-width is adjusted
symmetrically, meaning that the right and
left wheels must be the same distance
from the center-line of the chassis.

Set the front track-width to 254mm. Turn both pivot balls IN equally
to reduce track-width, turn them both OUT equally to increase
track-width.

2.2 Rear track-width - Setting

Rear track-width is measured also on the
outside of the wheels. As in the front it is
important that the rear track-width is
adjusted symmetrically, meaning that the
right and left wheels must be the same
distance from the center-line of the chas­sis.

Set the rear track-width to 262mm. This is achieved by first remov­ing both rear upper wishbone mounting points from the rear
upright. Unscrew both sides, together with the two lower pivot
balls, out to make wider and in to make narrower.

3 Downstops

Downstops limit how far the suspension arms travel downward
(which determines how far upwards the chassis travels). The
amount of downward suspension travel affects the car's handling,
and the effect may change with the type of track and/or amount of
grip available. In general, more suspension travel (less downstop)
makes the car more responsive but less stable. It is also better on a
bumpy track.

It is very important to adjust the downstops such that left and right
sides are equal.

How to measure

You check the downstops with the chassis
elevated above a reference surface. A
special, flat reference board is available
from HUDY (#108200 Flat Set-up Board).
We also advise you to use the downstop
measuring set from HUDY.

Using the measuring gauge, measure the distance from the refer­ence surface to the bottoms of the rear uprights / front steering
blocks. Positive numbers indicate the distance (in mm) ABOVE the
level of the elevating blocks (or, above the bottom of the chassis).
Negative numbers indicate the distance (in mm) BELOW the level of
the elevating blocks (or, below the bottom of the chassis).

Perform these initial steps
A Remove the wheels from the car.
B Front anti-roll bar: Remove screw from

the right front anti-roll bar mount to dis­connect it.
C Rear anti-roll bar: Disconnect one ball­joint from rear anti-roll bar.

Remark: it is not necessary to remove the shocks, however you
must be sure that they are long enough not to limit the suspension.
Be sure the suspension is reaching the downstop limits, before the
shocks do.

3.1 Downstops front

Adjust the front downstop screws so that
the bottoms of the steering blocks are at
0mm on the gauge. (Actual measurement
= 0 mm above level of elevating blocks,
or level with the bottom of the chassis).

C

30

3.2 Downstops rear

Adjust the rear downstop screws so that
the bottoms of the rear uprights are at
+9mm on the gauge. (Actual measure­ment = 9mm above level of elevating
blocks, or above the bottom of the chas­sis).

4 Roll Centers

The "roll-center" is the theoretical point around which the chassis
rolls, and is determined by the design of the suspension. Front and
rear suspension normally have different roll-centers. The "roll-axis"
is the imaginary line between the front and rear roll-centers. How
much a chassis rolls in a corner depends on the relative position of
the roll-axis to the center of gravity of the car. The closer the center
of gravity is to the roll-axis, the less roll the chassis has and the
less camber change there will be as a result of the chassis rolling.

How to adjust

Front and rear roll centers are both
adjusted by inserting spacers. For the
front you can add (rise the roll center)
or remove (lower the roll center) carbon
spacers above the front upper wishbone
pivot point-bracket. For the rear you can
place a spacer above the rear upright
beneath the rear upper wishbone (rise
the roll center).

4.1 Front roll center - Setting

Set the front roll center to its default set­ting of 3mm.

4.2 Rear roll center - Setting

Set the rear roll center to 0 mm (no
spacer)

5 Ride Height

Ride-height also affects the car's traction as it moves the center of
gravity and the roll-center of the car. Decreasing the ride-height
(lowering the car) gives you more grip. However, because of
changes in suspension geometry and decreasing ground clearance,
there are also negative consequences to doing this.

How to measure

The cars ride height is measured when
mounted on the HUDY setup system or
using a set of 76mm rear / 70mm front
tires. Measure using a HUDY ride height
gauge or a calipers from the very end
point at both the front and rear of the
car.

5.1 Front ride height - Setting

Set the front ride height to 7mm. This is
done by adding or removing pressure on
both front springs pre-tension and there­fore raising or lowering the ride height.

5.2 Rear ride height - Setting

Set the rear ride height to 7mm. This is
done by adding or removing pressure on
both rear springs pre-tension and there­fore raising or lowering the ride height.

6.0 Camber

Camber is the angle of a wheel to the surface when the car is rest­ing on the surface (with wheels and shock absorbers mounted).
Zero degrees (0°) of driving camber means that the wheel is per-

pendicular to the reference surface; negative degrees means that
the top of the wheel is leaning inwards; positive degrees means
that the top of the wheel is leaning outwards.

Camber affects the car's traction. In general, more negative camber
means increased grip. Nevertheless, it should always be adjusted
such that the front tires wear flat, while the rear tires should wear
slightly conical to the inside.

6.1 Front driving camber - Setting

Adjust the front driving camber to -1.5 degrees (tops of front
wheels leaning inwards).

How to measure

Before measuring front driving camber,
lift and drop the front end of the car a
few cm's to let the suspension settle.
Measure the camber using the Hudy set­up system which you already used to
adjust ride height.

Notice: using wheels together with a camber gauge may result in
noticeable different camber readings. The reason is that especially
the rear tire has a tendency to lay flat on the surface. If then i.e.
the tire is not pre-coned, the camber reading may differ up to 1
degree less camber to the reading you get with the Hudy system.

How to adjust

Camber is adjusted by turning the pivot­balls in or out. Turning the upper pivotball
in while turning the lower one out gives
more negative camber. Always turn one
pivotball in and the other one out, other­wise you will change toe-in.

6.2 Rear driving camber - Setting

Adjust the rear driving camber to -3 degrees (tops of rear wheels
leaning inwards).

How to measure

The measuring is similar to the front
camber.

How to adjust

Camber is adjusted by turning the pivot­balls in or out. Turning the (lower) pivot­balls out gives more negative camber.
Always turn both pivotballs in or out, oth­erwise you will change toe-in.

7 Toe-in

Toe-in is the angle of the wheels when looked at from above. When
the wheels are parallel, the toe-in is 0 degrees. When the wheels
are open towards the front, this is called toe-out (or negative toe­in). When the wheels are closed towards the front, this is called
(positive) toe-in.

Toe-in is used to stabilize the car. In the case of oversteer (the rear
end losing traction before the front), adding extra rear toe-in may
help, but this makes on-power cornering a little more difficult. If the
car is too stable and pushing (understeering), removing some front
toe-in will remedy this.

How to adjust

Front toe-in is adjusted with the track-rods that connect the servo­savers to the steering blocks. Making the track-rods longer will cre­ate more toe-in, while making them shorter will create less toe-in.

To create more rear toe-in, turn in the front pivot ball and turn out
the rear pivot ball. To create less rear toe-in, turn out the front
pivot ball and turn in the rear pivot ball. Remember to make equal
(but opposite) adjustments to the pivot balls.

31

How to measure

Measure both the front and rear toe-in
using the set-up tool from HUDY

7.1 Front Toe-in - Setting

Adjust the front toe-in to -0.5 degrees
(fronts of front wheels pointing slightly
outwards).

7.2 Rear Toe-in - Setting

Adjust the rear toe-in to +2 degrees
(fronts of rear wheels pointing inwards).

8 Caster angle

Caster angle is the angle of an imaginary line between the top pivot
ball and the bottom pivot ball of the steering block, with respect to
a line perpendicular to the ground. Caster angle affects on- and off­power steering, as it will tilt the chassis more or less depending on
how much caster is applied.

In general changing caster has an effect on on-throttle handling.
Giving more caster results in more on-throttle oversteer (or less
understeer). Effects on off-throttle balance is quite little and difficult
to predict.

How to adjust

The caster angle is adjusted with nylon
spacers which are inserted either in front
of or behind the upper front suspension
arm. More spacers in front of the arm
will increase the caster angle. More
spacers behind the arm will decrease the
caster angle.

8.1 Caster - Setting

Set the front caster gap to 2mm (2mm shim in front of the upper
arm, 1+4mm shims behind).

9 Checking for suspension tweak

A "tweaked" car is an unbalanced car, and has a tendency to pull to
one side under acceleration or braking. Tweak is caused by an
uneven wheel-load on one particular axle. Now that the suspension
geometry set-up has been completed, you must check for suspen­sion tweak before you reconnect the anti-roll bars.

Perform these initial steps:
A Place the car on a flat reference surface.

B Make sure that both front and rear anti-roll bars are disconnect-

ed.
C Put a set of good tires on the car, important is that the left

wheels have the same size than the right ones

9.1 Checking for tweak from the front of the car. Lift and drop the
front end of the car a few cm's to let the suspension settle. Place a
sharp tool underneath the chassis at its middle point, and lift the
front end. If one front wheel lifts before the other, the rear of the
car is tweaked.

9.2 Adjust the preload on the rear
springs until both front wheels lift at the
same time. If, for example, the front right
wheel lifts earlier, you must increase the
preload on the rear left spring, and
decrease the preload on the rear right
spring. You must adjust both rear
springs, otherwise you will change the
ride height.

9.3 Reconnect the rear anti-roll bar, and
check for tweak again by lifting the front
end of the car. If again one front wheel
lifts before the other, the rear anti-roll bar
is tweaked. Adjust the length of one or
both rear anti-roll bar pushrods until both
front wheels lift at the same time.

9.4 Checking for tweak from the rear of
the car. Lift and drop the rear end of the
car a few cm's to let the suspension set­tle. Place a sharp tool underneath the
chassis at its middle point, and lift the
rear end. If one rear wheel lifts before
the other, the front of the car is tweaked.

9.5 Adjust the preload on the front
springs until both rear wheels lift at the
same time. If, for example, the rear right
wheel lifts earlier, you must increase the
preload on the front left spring, and
decrease the preload on the front right
spring. You must adjust both front
springs, otherwise you will change the
ride height.

9.6 Reconnect the front anti-roll bar, and
check for tweak again by lifting the rear
end of the car. If again one rear wheel
lifts before the other, the front anti-roll
bar is tweaked. Loosen the screw on the
left front anti-roll bar mount. Adjust the
eccentric cam until both rear wheels lift
from the ground at the same time.
Tighten the screw to secure the adjusting
cam.

10 Anti-roll bars

Anti-roll bars are used to adjust the car's side-traction. In general,
increasing the hardness of an anti-roll bar on one particular axle
decreases the side-traction of that axle and increases the side-trac­tion of the other axle. For example, if you make the front anti-roll
bar harder, you decrease the side-traction of the front and increase
the side-traction of the rear. This will result in less steering (more
understeer).

Changing the front anti-roll bar has more effect on turning-in
(entering a turn, decelerating, off-power).
Changing the rear anti-roll bar has more effect on powering-out
(exiting a turn, accelerating, on-power).

How to adjust

You adjust the front anti-roll bar by turn­ing both blades to an equal angle. The
flat of the blade in a horizontal position
is the softest position; the vertical posi­tion is the hardest position.

10.1 Front anti-roll bar - Setting

Adjust the front anti-roll bar to the (softest) horizontal position.

10.2 The rear anti-roll bar is non-adjustable unless you obtain the
optional adjustable anti-roll bar (#909335). This can be adjusted
the same as the front.
By changing which anti-roll bar mounting hole on the lower arm you
use changes the effect of the anti-roll bar. The inner hole gives a
softer setting were the outer holes give a harder setting (standard).

P.O. Box 180, 2100 AD Heemstede
The Netherlands, Europe.
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [e-mail]

Serpent USA, Inc.

West Park Center,
2830 NW 79th Avenue,
Miami, Florida 33122, USA.
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [e-mail]

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